Gramercy Tavern (2008– )

[Fat Guy]

(This topic continues the Gramercy Tavern 2007 topic)

Tonight I attended a Michael Anthony dinner at the new Astor Center. I've posted about the event on a separate topic, however the event also caused me to reflect on my 2007 meals at Gramercy Tavern and how much the restaurant has come along.

Mike Anthony has been the chef at Gramercy Tavern for about a year now (assuming you count from when his menu came into play as opposed to his hire date), and I think the restaurant is better now than it ever was. More importantly, though, it's a different restaurant. Without fanfare, Mike Anthony has transformed Gramercy Tavern into a local-product-driven restaurant. In the past, Gramercy Tavern did of course use plenty of produce from the Union Square Greenmarket, but it was largely employed as decoration. Now, while there are of course still imports here and there on the menu, the cuisine of Gramercy Tavern is built around a much stronger regional concept.

This isn't being done in the overly self-conscious "locavore" sense but, rather, in the service of flavor. Most likely this non-ideological approach, combined with a reluctance to scare old-time Gramercy Tavern regulars away, not to mention Mike Anthony's generally modest disposition, is why Mike Anthony hasn't been telling the story all that loudly. Yet the cuisine of Gramercy Tavern today bears virtually no resemblance to what came before. So now, moving into his second year, I think Mike Anthony's challenge will be to get the word out in a more overt way. The transition is over. The restaurant is still doing a booming business. There's nothing to worry about on that front. So I think it's time for him to start talking more about what Gramercy Tavern has and will become.

Gramercy Tavern
42 East 20th Street (between Broadway and Park Avenue South)
212.477.0777
http://gramercytavern.com/

[oakapple]

GT is one of those restaurants I've never tried because of the great difficulty of getting in (on terms that are acceptable to me). I've tried several times, and always failed.

I do realize that if I set my mind to eating at Gramercy Tavern—if it becomes my single-minded obsession, and if I set aside all preconceptions about days of the week and normal dinner times—I could probably eat there sometime very soon, maybe even today. I'm just not willing to become obsessed about that; there are enough excellent restaurants where obsession is not required as a ticket to entry.

[Fat Guy]

Gramercy Tavern and Union Square Cafe are typically number 1 and 2 (it switches back and forth) on the Zagat most-popular list, so the demand for prime tables in the 7:30-9:30 range (I assume that's what is meant by acceptable terms?) tends to exceed the supply. That being said, Gramercy Tavern is easier for non-regulars to book than a lot of less popular restaurants that are more aggressive about favoring VIPs. At least at Gramercy Tavern, if you call the morning they start accepting reservations for a given date, you can actually get a desirable table. Even now if you go on OpenTable you can find a couple of 7:30 spots for 2 or 4 towards the end of the month (as of when I'm writing this). They don't hold 100% of the good tables back the way a lot of restaurants do. Gramercy Tavern is also a fairly large restaurant, so things open up with greater frequency than at smaller places, and the reservationists are very good about calling back if you put in a request that they can't fulfill right away and something opens up later. I just had friends in from North Carolina and, about a week in advance, they tried to book at Gramercy Tavern for this past Monday night. They couldn't get anything, but the restaurant called on my friend's cell phone Monday around lunchtime with an offer of a table. I didn't even hear about the adventure until after it was over, otherwise I'd have advised more persistence aka obsession. But they got the whole thing accomplished with just that initial phone call.

[SobaAddict70]

GT is one of those restaurants I've never tried because of the great difficulty of getting in (on terms that are acceptable to me). I've tried several times, and always failed.

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Had a 6 pm seating last Monday. The reservationist remembered me from last time.

If anything, Babbo is more of a headache getting in, and not very good comparatively in my opinion.

There was an 8 pm seating that became available the day I made the reservation but as it happens, 2 people in our party were unavailable. C'est la vie.

Edited March 2, 2008 by SobaAddict70 (log)

[scarlet knight]

We ate at Gramercy Tavern for our anniversary on 6/2/08. My wife's tagliatelle appetizer was overly salty and my black sea bass entree was overly salty. Not by a little, it was really salty. They also forgot to give us a plate of petit fours. I didn't say anything because I am in a weight conscious mode. We much preferred our meal at Passione in Montclair, NJ two days earlier. GT is a beautiful place and the servers tried hard in general, but I've had better food many other places. I realize that we are not a random sample and we may have run into a salt-happy sous chef.

[SobaAddict70]

Guess where I had lunch today.

I didn't run into any salt problems. Everything has been consistent per my expectations of Chef Anthony's cooking.

The veal....*swoon*

[KitchenMom]

How fortuitous to find this thread on top, as I was just coming to ask a question. We are coming in from out of town and I could only get a reservation for GT at 10 p.m. on a Saturday night (they'll call if anything earlier opens up). We have no problem eating that late, but around these parts, restaurants turn into ghost towns at this hour, if they are open at all. I just want to make sure that things will still be hopping at GT and we won't feel rushed to finish and get out.

I'd appreciate any feedback. Our other option is to take a completely different tack and try Momofuku Ssam, which we are also dying to try. So many restaurants, so little time. . .

[BryanZ]

On a Saturday night GT should be buzzing until midnight. It probably does skew a bit earlier because of the higher tourist quotient, but it's certainly a popular restaurant--as you've witnessed--and is busy from open until close. It's a class act so you wont be rushed by any means.

The obvious answer to your "problem" is to eat at Ssam at about 5:30 or so when they open for dinner. That gives you PLENTY of time to digest for a few courses or even a tating menu at GT.

[KitchenMom]

The obvious answer to your "problem" is to eat at Ssam at about 5:30 or so when they open for dinner.  That gives you PLENTY of time to digest for a few courses or even a tating menu at GT.

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Don't think I hadn't thought of that! I'm just not sure my increasingly middle-aged digestive system can take it. We'll definitely try to sqeeze Ssam in sometime, even if it means delaying our departure so we can have an early dinner Sunday.

[Nathan]

How fortuitous to find this thread on top, as I was just coming to ask a question.  We are coming in from out of town and I could only get a reservation for GT at 10 p.m. on a Saturday night (they'll call if anything earlier opens up).  We have no problem eating that late, but around these parts, restaurants turn into ghost towns at this hour, if they are open at all.  I just want to make sure that things will still be hopping at GT and we won't feel rushed to finish and get out.

I'd appreciate any feedback.  Our other option is to take a completely different tack and try Momofuku Ssam, which we are also dying to try.  So many restaurants, so little time. . .

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ten is a perfectly normal eating time in this town...especially on the weekend. GT does trend a little older and touristy so that won't be as true of it (as BryanZ noted)...but it won't be dead by any means.

furthermore, I'd show up at 9:30...tell them you're there early and getting a drink at the bar....there's always a decent chance that a table comes available early.

[Nathan]

The obvious answer to your "problem" is to eat at Ssam at about 5:30 or so when they open for dinner.  That gives you PLENTY of time to digest for a few courses or even a tating menu at GT.

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Don't think I hadn't thought of that! I'm just not sure my increasingly middle-aged digestive system can take it. We'll definitely try to sqeeze Ssam in sometime, even if it means delaying our departure so we can have an early dinner Sunday.

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capital idea!

[AES]

We've had our share of 10 pm reservations in NYC and it wasn't until about 12:30-45 that we've ever thought "hmm, guess we should get going" based on how much quieter any of the restaurants had gotten. And all of those times, there have been at least 5 tables of people seated the same time as we were who were also lingering....

[tupac17616]

Can anybody here share any recent experiences at GT in the tavern room? Anything you would consider a must-order?

[Robin Meredith]

Can anybody here share any recent experiences at GT in the tavern room?  Anything you would consider a must-order?

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This may sound strange, but the cauliflower first course I had two weeks ago was just amazing - one of the best restaurant dishes I've had in the last several months. A main course with scallops and beets was very, very good, but the cauliflower is the one that stays with me.

[tupac17616]

Can anybody here share any recent experiences at GT in the tavern room?  Anything you would consider a must-order?

This may sound strange, but the cauliflower first course I had two weeks ago was just amazing - one of the best restaurant dishes I've had in the last several months. A main course with scallops and beets was very, very good, but the cauliflower is the one that stays with me.

Not strange at all, Robin. Thanks!

[BryanZ]

Went to GTav Tavern Room with a bunch of friends last night. The experience was exactly as one might imagine. We were there early, but you get that nice mix of people at the bar, the room faintly buzzing. It's a happy place. Food, while good, almost seems less important.

Tried a good portion of the menu and liked pretty much everything. Calamari and carrot salad is a great light starter. One step up in heaviness is the octopus dish, an assortment of very tender, not-charred pieces with greens and a sweet puree. Duck terrine, perhaps my favorite of the bunch; I especially liked the fig core. The seafood chowder was perhaps a bit oversalted but otherwise nice and creamy. Some sort of curry note keeps things interesting. Special of veal deckle evoked baby cow pork belly, if such a thing were allowed to exist. Served with corn and tomatoes and veal jus. Fatty and tasty. Three nice-sized scallops in what's effectively borscht made for perhaps the most interesting of the mains. Pork chop was about as good as one might expect a heritage piece of pork to be. The pork sandwich is awesome, and if you're in the mood for that kind of thing, get it.

As for desserts, the sticky toffee pudding is very good, if a bit dry if not enough of the sauce is applied. The highlight, perhaps of the meal, was the corn and blueberry sundae. That thing was gone in a matter of seconds between the five of us.

I really can't say much bad about this place. It's affordable, the cooking is solid if not particularly interesting, and the service is friendly and attentive. A perfect spot to appease diners with diverse tastes if you're willing to dine early or late.

Edited October 13, 2008 by BryanZ (log)

[sundownyellowmoon]

Does anyone have any recent feedback on Gramercy Tavern? I'm planning to have dinner there on Sunday with a friend from out of town. I've been to GT a few times but not while Mike Anthony has been the chef.

Thanks!

Jon

[kathryn]

Formal dining room or the casual room in front?

I've eaten in the formal room 5-6 times in the last year or so, and each meal has been very good.

[Bill Miller]

Does anyone have any recent feedback on Gramercy Tavern?  I'm planning to have dinner there on Sunday with a friend from out of town.  I've been to GT a few times but not while Mike Anthony has been the chef.

Thanks!

Jon

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I read you can get lunch in the tavern for $14.95, weekdays. We had dinner, I think at 8 twoyears ago. I think I reported then--fine experience.

We are coming to NY next week and I got reservations at Babbos Wed nite at 8PM. I called exactly 30 days ahead at 10AM EST and got it.

[yasuofenix]

I just had my last NYC meal here before moving to California. And I had a good time. The warm salad with black lentils tasted very fresh, and the shrimp salad was tasty. The entrees were good. We had the pineapple cake & buterscotch sundae for dessert. The pineapple cake was really good, especially with both fresh & cooked. The sundae was okay, it was too sweet. But I like Gramercy for their desserts.

Anyway I'm glad to have gone there again before I leave. I've only ever been there though with Chef Michael so I can't compare.

I did have a Stone Pale Ale as my drink, I didn't pay attention at first but that ale is from California. I looked at it and laughed as its fitting that I'm drinking this and moving there.

Good luck to them in the future.

[Chris Hennes]

My wife and I ate at GT (in the main dining room) last Tuesday evening. I had originally intended to order a la carte, but the vegetable tasting menu looked intriguing so we went ahead and ordered that instead: I'm very glad we did, the food was excellent. The menu was:

Hakurei Turnips

Snap Peas and Cured Duck Breast

Warm Salad of Asparagus and Black Lentils

Fettuccine

Nettles, Pecorino and Black Pepper

Leeks & Pickled Ramps

Toasted Green Wheat, and Pecans

English Peas

Garlic Scapes and Smoked Pork Broth

Tasting Dessert

Note in particular that it was not vegetarian, just vegetable-focused. There were a couple standouts for me. The "Warm salad of asparagus and black lentils" had no business being called a salad, but damn it was good. Just really excellent focused flavors in perfect balance. The fettuccine was also excellent, though I was thankful that there was only about three bites' worth because it was very rich. The last savory course was raw english peas with a warm broth poured over them at tableside: this was my least favorite course, in part because it was simply too large and so became monotonous after a few bites. For dessert we had a cheese plate: a small strawberry shortcake was also provided. The shortcake was nice, but by this point I had had plenty of food and was in the mood for a liquid dessert. We had cocktails with dinner so I can't comment on their wine list or the sommelier, but our server was attentive and unobtrusive. Overall, a very nice meal, especially after spending the rest of the day in airports.

[SobaAddict70]

Ramp custard, trout roe, pickled mushroom

Beef tartare, pine nuts, capers, pickled mushrooms

Txakoli, Txomin Etxaniz, 2012, Spain

Fluke tartare, salmon roe, radish

Smoked trout, cipollini purée, pickled onions

Halibut, spinach, ramps, shiitake mushrooms, mushroom broth

Roasted Jerusalem artichokes, baby bok choy, cauliflower purée, almond

Roasted carrots, cumin seed, pistachio

Gnocchi, sweet potato chips, creamed spinach

Spaghetti, squid, green chickpeas

Duck breast, wheat berries, turnips

Seared chicken breast, radicchio, potato purée

Pinot Noir, 2011 Belle Pente, Yamhill County, Williamette Valley, Oregon

Pear sorbet, pear cake, linden flower custard, caramel sauce, brown sugar meringue

Blood orange panna cotta, Cara Cara orange granita, tapioca

Assorted pastries

Clockwise from top left: coconut white chocolate pound cake, mint chocolate "Oreo" cookie, dark chocolate cake with powdered sugar, milk with straw, chocolate chip cookie, raspberry jam cookie, gingersnap shortbread, fig rugelach.

Mignardises

You might say that it was a night to remember.

Edited May 5, 2014 by SobaAddict70 (log)

[FauxPas]

Wow, thanks for posting with all the pics! What were your faves? Anything that didn't quite work?

 

How did your visit compare to previous visits? 

Edited May 5, 2014 by FauxPas (log)

[SobaAddict70]

It was a chef's tasting -- so while there were some selections from the regular menu, there were others that weren't, like for instance the sunchoke/bok choy combination.

We were satisfied with everything, although I thought the weakest course was the pasta (the gnocchi). I didn't sample much of what my partner ate, although based on what I had, I'd say his meat entrée was the better of the two. I am a sucker for perfectly cooked chicken, and his was spot on.

Very reasonable for 2 people, given the quality of the food, the presentation, etc.: $321, not including tip.

GT remains one of my favorite restaurants in New York City. Chef Anthony has an extremely refined, Japanese-influenced sensibility. I adore his cooking, and I love how he's transformed the restaurant in the time that he's been there. I eagerly look forward to more.

Edited May 5, 2014 by SobaAddict70 (log)

[CaliPoutine]

My aunt is treating us to a meal( has to be lunch, only 10pm reservations for dinner were available) at GT next week.  I hope my picky wife can find something to eat.  I'll be thinking of Fat Guy while we're eating( since he started this topic).