Harry's Place Nr Grantham

[Gary Marshall]

Tuesday night saw us head down south-ish to grantham for dinner at harry's place in nearby Great Gonerby. Despite having a star it is quite low profile and it has the distinction of being the smallest one star restaurant in the country,indeed it's probably one of the smallest restuarants in the UK having only 3 tables in the Hallam's front room seating 10 maximum. Jan moir wrote a review of it years ago and it has always struck me as somewhere i'd like to try one day.

After a couple of years in a standard restaurant setting and previously working in the family owned restaurants harry & caroline hallam bought the house that became harry's place 19 years ago. Despite the foodie paraphenalia around the dining area such as oodles of AA rosette plates they are intermingled with family portraits so it really does feel like you're in their dining room. At first i wasn't convinced this was a good look, especially as we were first to arrive, warmly greeted with an open door by caroline, but we eventually realised this is a very personal place.

The menu is concise to a point, there's only 2 choices per course plus cheese, though some of the sauce descriptions did mention about 5 ingredients. The hand written menus & wine list show that the hallams are perfectly comfortable turning out the food that they, and judging by the popularity of the place, their customers love, there was no nod to any modern techniques though nor was the menu trying to be modishly -retro.

we started with a glass of champagne which was a very nice bollinger at a very un-ducasse price of £8 and some very pleasant though unnanounced hot canapes with feta/olives tomato combo on them, plus decent wholemeal bread.

The starters didn't particularly entice on first glance, a fresh tomato soup with pesto, though billed on the menu as soupe de tomates friaches avec pistou it read a little better and a scallop terrine with sauternes jelly. probably best to mention the prices at this point £9.50 for the soup and £19.50 for the scallops. But more of that later. Not being a massive fan of terrines generally, i went out of foodie mode and into, 'well it's a cold night and i actually quite fancy some soup to start with'. What arrived was a shallow-ish bowl with a very intense, dark tomato soup with a very pungent pistou/pesto on top, very fragrant. the soup had real depth, i'm sure it must have a good meaty stock as a base but there was also a very subtle and accurate spicey-ness to it too. we were both very happy with our choices.

For main there was a choice of a loin of lamb with a red wine and cast of thousands sauce and for sarah a halibut with lentil & red wine-y sauce. Without the menu i can't do the descriptions justice i'm afriad. I had the lamb and it really was superb, it was a black face cross from the menu that i remember, but what stood out was the cooking, charred on the outside to blue in the middle, textbook black n' blue, 'sous vide my arse' i thought as i tucked in. The sauce too didn't disappoint, like the soup, seemingly built out of many layers of reduction. Sarah's halibut was similarly well cooked and again subtly spiced with what the french would call 'curry' (and the late tony finch would always go mad about !) and the sauce also excellent. Oddly both dishes came with exactly the same garnish of a very arty pile of veg including french beans, sweet corn & fried breadcrumbs. sounds odd but tasted great. A bowl of duck/goose fat cooked, no, not the now ubiquitous triple cooked chips but rosemary/thyme roasties also accompanied the dishes. Oh, and they were £35 each. The main courses, not the roasties.

The desserts were equally as idiosyncratic a cherry jelly or apricot ice cream and amaretto sauce. We decided on a cheese and a dessert to share in turn. The menu listed a lot of cheeses maybe 12, mainly french. I was expecting to make a selection from the list but no, we got a bit of everything, in menu order for, given the cost of cheese a very respectable £10.

Naturally i found room for some dessert and went for the ice cream which was pretty good if unadventurous at £7.

the wine list continued the personal theme with a probably 10 choice list from mid - £20's upwards and in the case of the reds quite considerably upwards and some unusal choices for such a short list, 2 riojas for example and some serious bordeaux. We stuck to the lower reaches with a riesling and an 04 bourgogne from a gevrey chambertin producer both about £30 and both actually very decent. we also had glass of dessert wine each and comped a glass of their 1er cru dessert wine that i thought better of ordering without a price list in front of me!

with coffee and calva to finish the bill came to £200 before service which despite the seemingly steep menu prices we thought was actually good going. Harry & caroline are very chatty and hospitable and it is such a refreshing change to eat a chefs menu that is literally what he likes/wants to cook without being overtly influenced by fashion or head office. I told him the lamb was brilliant and how nice it was to see some good 'old fashioned' pan action and he said yes, just seared in a bloody hot, old, cast iron pan and then rested. I can still taste it, it was superb, going from kebaby charcoal to finest rare breed haute cusine in one slice.

Despite the small number of covers they still open most of the year, lunch and dinner, taking only a christmas break and given harry is about to celebrate a milestone birthday, it's very good going, and you get the impression there's not many of harry hallam's ilk left still cooking which is a shame. If you like classic cooking with top notch execution it's well worth a trip.

[Bapi]

Nice write up Gary. I drive past the Great Gonerby turning at least once every six weeks and bizzarely will be doing exactly that in about 6 hours time, to pick the Mother-in-Law(gulp). I always say to the Missus that I would love to go but have yet to do so.

Were you suprised at the pricing? I thought it quite high - till I remembered that Hambelton Hall is also in the same price bracket.

[Gary Marshall]

it rang a bell that mains were expensive but still a bit of a shock to see £35 but overall it seemed worth it. when you only do 10 covers it's not going to be cheap so i don't begrudge it, there were some quality ingredients being utilised and there was plenty of it for the full plate afficionados.

[nikkib]

£8 for a glass of bolly?!! Thats odd having such cheap champagne etc when the menu is pricier? Most places do it the other way around?

[muichoi]

True, but this reflects real costs. Why should wine drinkers subsidise the others?

[nikkib]

fair enough, i just think it is an interesting way of doing things and one that probably is noticed by more people than say the wine and may be prohibitive to some. You dont want to pay £20 + for a glass of champagne at Alain ducasse? Fine go straight to wine, you dont want to pay £35 for your main course - you eat somewhere else? Seems a bit limiting in terms of clientele?

[Gary Marshall]

the pricing is in line with the whole idiosyncratic nature of the place and no doubt the economics, when you only have 3 tables you aren't going to be in business long with 10.99 main courses. The key is if upon spending your cash you feel you had value for money, and i did, i thought we were heading for £300 + so was pleasantly suprised (ahh, the lala land us foodies reside in )

[david goodfellow]

This thread badly needs an update (please).

There must be someone who's been recently?

Much appreciated, in anticipation.

[food1]

This thread badly needs an update (please).

There must be someone who's been recently?

Much appreciated, in anticipation.

←

I have tried many times, unsuccessfully, to get a reservation here over the past year. Due to their size and being in a similar situation, they must have a cut off point for taking bookings. I got the impression that they may be at the moment, restricting bookings from Thursday to Saturday? I can fully understand if thats the case.

I have visted Harry's on two occasions and really enjoy the unpretentious way they do things and I can identify with their idea's, running a similarish operation, all be it more modern in style.

The only real sticking point for me is the ultra stella prices that are in place. You are looking at nine pounds for a simple soup and thirty six pounds a piece for the two main course. From my visits, the meat and fish mains are served with the same salad garnish and the puddings are very, very simple affairs, which if Im totally honest do not warrant the price tag. Obviously, being in the same sort of territory, you can't help making price comparisons.

That said, I would most certainly recommend a visit. Its individual and totally different to the 'fashionable, foam on every thing restaurants' and the same old gastro pubs. Its a shame that there isn't more chefs and restaurants operating with a similar attitude in this country. Sadly, I reckon there will be a lot of folk out there who just woudn't get or understand restaurants like Harry's. For me the likes of Harry's and my own gaff, Artisan restaurant, Hessle, definately offer something that is a bit different from the norm. I can tell you, it takes a bit of nerve to buck the 'safe, everything for everyman' trend, especially up ere in't North!!

[david goodfellow]

This thread badly needs an update (please).

There must be someone who's been recently?

Much appreciated, in anticipation.

←

I have tried many times, unsuccessfully, to get a reservation here over the past year. Due to their size and being in a similar situation, they must have a cut off point for taking bookings. I got the impression that they may be at the moment, restricting bookings from Thursday to Saturday? I can fully understand if thats the case.

I have visted Harry's on two occasions and really enjoy the unpretentious way they do things and I can identify with their idea's, running a similarish operation, all be it more modern in style.

The only real sticking point for me is the ultra stella prices that are in place. You are looking at nine pounds for a simple soup and thirty six pounds a piece for the two main course. From my visits, the meat and fish mains are served with the same salad garnish and the puddings are very, very simple affairs, which if Im totally honest do not warrant the price tag. Obviously, being in the same sort of territory, you can't help making price comparisons.

That said, I would most certainly recommend a visit. Its individual and totally different to the 'fashionable, foam on every thing restaurants' and the same old gastro pubs. Its a shame that there isn't more chefs and restaurants operating with a similar attitude in this country. Sadly, I reckon there will be a lot of folk out there who just woudn't get or understand restaurants like Harry's. For me the likes of Harry's and my own gaff, Artisan restaurant, Hessle, definately offer something that is a bit different from the norm. I can tell you, it takes a bit of nerve to buck the 'safe, everything for everyman' trend, especially up ere in't North!!

←

Thanks for the info.

May give it a try sometime, I'm curious as to why it seems to be so low key?

More to the point, in your reply, visited your website and what a glowing review from Mr Rayner

Big helpings also, gets my vote, maybe soon me thinks

[food1]

David, as and when you visit Harry's, you'll understand exactly why the place is so low key. If it was anything else, it wouldn't suit somehow. Its a very different kettle of fish to your Purnells, The maestro PK etc!! I have wondered and did ask them why they don't bother with a website etc but I reckon they are happy with their lot. Makes a refreshing change though!! I wouldn't think its too far from your HQ, especially as you seem to be on restaurant mission at the moment!!! Where is it this week then David?

As for me here, yes I definately serve good 'Yorkie' portions! Only ever had one person in nearly five years who said we serve too much. Guess who that was? A michelin inspector, who having said that ate absolutely everything!! I reckon he was really just trying to sound me out. In my opinion theres nothing wrong with good old fashion hospitality. Anyway,as and when you ever visit us, you will definately not need to get a sandwich afterwards, thats of course if you like it!!

[david goodfellow]

Couple of Michelin "cheapies" this week, if everything goes to plan.

One lunch, one dinner, both a bit of a treck away.

As always, really looking forward to it

[olicollett]

Couple of Michelin "cheapies" this week, if everything goes to plan.

One lunch, one dinner, both a bit of a treck away.

As always, really looking forward to it 

←

Can you pick me up on the way?

[alex james]

Recent report as requested upthread.

I'm not even sure that its within the normal meaning of restaurant. As most other reviewers point out, its eating in somebody's house. Quite hard to spot as well - a small sign over the door of a detached "country Georgian" house in a nondescript suburb of Grantham, a town of limited charms. Its best described as opposite the Recruiting Sergeant - the one and only pub in Great Gonerby.

Great place. But probably best suited to folk who hate large and noisy places. Harry's is the antithesis of that. Just tables for six and four last Saturday evening. There is another table but I think it is not in use for diners.

Mrs J and I were on the table for four. Caroline Hallam is a one woman FOH operation and she is very good at it.

We started with a glass of kir and moved on to an amuse of little goats cheese tarts. Extremely good.

Thereafter there is a choice of two for each of three courses. Sounds excessively restrictive but its not.

To start was an onion soup (£9) which was described as "good but a bit sweet" by Mrs J. I neglected to steal some because I was busy with an excellent crab terrine (on the menu as a ceviche) with horseradish mayo and a few leaves. Stiffly priced at £16 tho'.

Next up was a choice between halibut or Gascon pork with duck foie gras and apple. Both of us took the porcine option at £35. I think it was a slice of loin but I'm unsure of the point. I've no idea what Harry does to it because the texture was a complete novelty to me. Tasted good and came with a neutralish jus and some excellent saute potatoes. A secondary garnish of raw carrots/broad beans/peas with herbs and a little mayo struck me as slightly discordant. I think I prefer cooked vegetables with a warm pork dish.

Mrs J and I again departed from reviewing best practice by having the same dessert - a caramel foam with raspberries and strawberries on the side. Light sweet and very moreish.

The wine list is about a dozen or so each of reds and whites. My only area of (very limited) expertise is Burgundy which I generally refuse to drink in restaurants because paying thrice retail for anything half decent is too injurious to the wallet. Thus I was doing it by guesswork and hit on a good Sicilian white and a serviceable red Rioja.

Bill was £192 to include two coffees and a large Armagnac.

The place is expensive for Michelin 1* or 1.5* food but the ambience is unlike any other restaurant I've ever been in. Particularly so on the evening concerned. The six top no showed and Caroline advised that there was no reply on the contact cellphone number provided. Its depressing that people smart enough to know about the place should behave so disgracefully. Harry did not quite agree with my assertion that searching out the culprits and killing them amounts to justifiable homicide. Given that the place is reservation only and the probability of a replacement by way of a speculative walk up is nil, methinks the deliberate deprivation of 75% of an independent's evening turnover is or should be a capital offence. Or deserving of a good kicking at least.

Harry's is well worth a visit. But if you aim to stay overnight in the area, avoid the Angel and Royal in Grantham. Its a dump and there is no other alternative other than the usual cheapo chain places. Caroline advises that there are a few good B & B's in the area so her advice should be sought when booking.

[david goodfellow]

Recent report as requested upthread.

I'm not even sure that its within the normal meaning of restaurant. As most other reviewers point out, its eating in somebody's house. Quite hard to spot as well - a small sign over the door of a detached "country Georgian" house in a nondescript suburb of Grantham, a town of limited charms. Its best described as opposite the Recruiting Sergeant - the one and only pub in Great Gonerby.

Great place. But probably best suited to folk who hate large and noisy places. Harry's is the antithesis of that. Just tables for six and four last Saturday evening. There is another table but I think it is not in use for diners.

Mrs J and I were on the table for four. Caroline Hallam is a one woman FOH operation and she is very good at it.

We started with a glass of kir and moved on to an amuse of little goats cheese tarts. Extremely good.

Thereafter there is a choice of two for each of three courses. Sounds excessively restrictive but its not.

To start was an onion soup (£9) which was described as "good but a bit sweet" by Mrs J. I neglected to steal some because I was busy with an excellent crab terrine (on the menu as a ceviche) with horseradish mayo and a few leaves. Stiffly priced at £16 tho'.

Next up was a choice between halibut or Gascon pork with duck foie gras and apple. Both of us took the porcine option at £35. I think it was a slice of loin but I'm unsure of the point. I've no idea what Harry does to it because the texture was a complete novelty to me. Tasted good and came with a neutralish jus and some excellent saute potatoes. A secondary garnish of raw carrots/broad beans/peas with herbs and a little mayo struck me as slightly discordant. I think I prefer cooked vegetables with a warm pork dish.

Mrs J and I again departed from reviewing best practice by having the same dessert - a caramel foam with raspberries and strawberries on the side. Light sweet and very moreish.

The wine list is about a dozen or so each of reds and whites. My only area of (very limited) expertise is Burgundy which I generally refuse to drink in restaurants because paying thrice retail for anything half decent is too injurious to the wallet. Thus I was doing it by guesswork and hit on a good Sicilian white and a serviceable red Rioja.

Bill was £192 to include two coffees and a large Armagnac.

The place is expensive for Michelin 1* or 1.5* food but the ambience is unlike any other restaurant I've ever been in. Particularly so on the evening concerned. The six top no showed and Caroline advised that there was no reply on the contact cellphone number provided. Its depressing that people smart enough to know about the place should behave so disgracefully. Harry did not quite agree with my assertion that searching out the culprits and killing them amounts to justifiable homicide. Given that the place is reservation only and the probability of a replacement by way of a speculative walk up is nil, methinks the deliberate deprivation of 75% of an independent's evening turnover is or should be a capital offence. Or deserving of a good kicking at least.

Harry's is well worth a visit. But if you aim to stay overnight in the area, avoid the Angel and Royal in Grantham. Its a dump and there is no other alternative other than the usual cheapo chain places. Caroline advises that there are a few good B & B's in the area so her advice should be sought when booking.

←

Thanks for that timely report, seems we are not the only ones who tend to go for the same dishes, Mrs G always chooses what I fancy eating, and vice versa of course.

Sometimes we just order the same if the dish is irresistable, but of late if that happens I tend to order the other choice as an extra course rather than not taste it.

I think I may toss a coin as to visit or not.

Fully agree with you on the despicable "no shows", whip the b'stards till they squeal.

Thanks again

[marc at fraiche]

no shows are so unfair on a small restaurant the culprits seem to be totally oblivious to the detrimental effect they are having on not only the guests but also the restaurant as this effects the atmosphere a great deal for the guests who do turn up and the chances of walk ins are very rare, not to mention the chance to break even on the days service

Recent report as requested upthread.

I'm not even sure that its within the normal meaning of restaurant. As most other reviewers point out, its eating in somebody's house. Quite hard to spot as well - a small sign over the door of a detached "country Georgian" house in a nondescript suburb of Grantham, a town of limited charms. Its best described as opposite the Recruiting Sergeant - the one and only pub in Great Gonerby.

Great place. But probably best suited to folk who hate large and noisy places. Harry's is the antithesis of that. Just tables for six and four last Saturday evening. There is another table but I think it is not in use for diners.

Mrs J and I were on the table for four. Caroline Hallam is a one woman FOH operation and she is very good at it.

We started with a glass of kir and moved on to an amuse of little goats cheese tarts. Extremely good.

Thereafter there is a choice of two for each of three courses. Sounds excessively restrictive but its not.

To start was an onion soup (£9) which was described as "good but a bit sweet" by Mrs J. I neglected to steal some because I was busy with an excellent crab terrine (on the menu as a ceviche) with horseradish mayo and a few leaves. Stiffly priced at £16 tho'.

Next up was a choice between halibut or Gascon pork with duck foie gras and apple. Both of us took the porcine option at £35. I think it was a slice of loin but I'm unsure of the point. I've no idea what Harry does to it because the texture was a complete novelty to me. Tasted good and came with a neutralish jus and some excellent saute potatoes. A secondary garnish of raw carrots/broad beans/peas with herbs and a little mayo struck me as slightly discordant. I think I prefer cooked vegetables with a warm pork dish.

Mrs J and I again departed from reviewing best practice by having the same dessert - a caramel foam with raspberries and strawberries on the side. Light sweet and very moreish.

The wine list is about a dozen or so each of reds and whites. My only area of (very limited) expertise is Burgundy which I generally refuse to drink in restaurants because paying thrice retail for anything half decent is too injurious to the wallet. Thus I was doing it by guesswork and hit on a good Sicilian white and a serviceable red Rioja.

Bill was £192 to include two coffees and a large Armagnac.

The place is expensive for Michelin 1* or 1.5* food but the ambience is unlike any other restaurant I've ever been in. Particularly so on the evening concerned. The six top no showed and Caroline advised that there was no reply on the contact cellphone number provided. Its depressing that people smart enough to know about the place should behave so disgracefully. Harry did not quite agree with my assertion that searching out the culprits and killing them amounts to justifiable homicide. Given that the place is reservation only and the probability of a replacement by way of a speculative walk up is nil, methinks the deliberate deprivation of 75% of an independent's evening turnover is or should be a capital offence. Or deserving of a good kicking at least.

Harry's is well worth a visit. But if you aim to stay overnight in the area, avoid the Angel and Royal in Grantham. Its a dump and there is no other alternative other than the usual cheapo chain places. Caroline advises that there are a few good B & B's in the area so her advice should be sought when booking.

←

[Matthew Grant]

Alex every time you make post I find myself very disappointed when I remember that you aren't the "real" Alex James