BLT Market

[Sneakeater]

I'm sorry; I wasn't clear.

I agree that BLT Market was fully review-worthy. I think it was wrong for Bruni to dismiss it as he did.

My point about gimmickry was that the "market ingredients" concept there doesn't seem like a felt necessity, a genuine esthetic and philosophical choice, as it did at, say, Savoy, and the countless Brooklyn restaurants that sprang from Savoy's kitchen, and the Blue Hill restaurants. Rather, it's clearly a gimmick adopted by a corporation for its new restaurant (and applied in an overly obvious manner, to make sure that a broad audience "gets" it: you don't see Dan Barber putting a list of what's in season on the side of menu) -- just the way the corporate owners of a bunch of chain restaurants might decide to branch into Mexican.

This isn't bad in itself. The proof, as always, is in the pudding. I.e., what's on your plate. It would have been an interesting theme to explore in a full review (rather than a back-of-the-hand Dining Briefs blurb).

Especially since the food at BLT Market isn't bad at all.

Edited February 11, 2008 by Sneakeater (log)