Bux

True, reservations are very difficult, if not impossible to secure. I also don't know that it would be as valuable a meal for a first time diner as for someone already familiar with restaurants in Paris. Paris is an interesting place in that there are many relatively inexpensive restaurants where $100 would cover a couple and yet the better places can run two or three times that per person. The last time we were there we had meals under $100 and over $275, but nothing in between. That's just another reason why l'Astrance sticks in my mind. Phillipe Dutourbe is in the 15th arr. We haven't been there in some years, but it was wonderful and the menu is only 37 euros without wine or coffee. The propblem is that there's a single menu of about five courses with no choices. Hard to say in advance what he mght offer, but it will be vegetables, sea food and meat or fowl along the way. In terms of food, atmosphere and service, "nice" is an understatement. The wine list is small but reasonable. Les Bookinistes came up on another thread. It's very centrally located on the quai on the left bank. I recall somewhat creative food there. In this case I also recall offal meats and interesting fish.

Very few, but I'll hazard a guess that for every ten people who read reviews there are twenty-five who can tell you that a certain restaurant got four stars or was panned. My point is that a powerful newspaper will put the point score in the general consciousness of those who never read the reviews. Things get known the way a guy who never reads about golf has heard of Tiger Woods. Anyway it has nothing to do with the conflict of interest issue. For me conflict of interest is hardly ever a problem with the best and worst of reviewers. A great reviewer will be above it and a lousy reviewer writes lousy reviews not worth reading anyway. It may well be a problem with a mediocre reviewer working for an important paper, but that's a shame anyway. An important paper should be a good one.

My apologies on that score. I'm not playing hard to get. I've been busy and also spending too much time reading and responding on this board. You might say that eGullet.com has been distracting me from my responsibilites of posting my trip on eGullet. Perish the thought I have much of a life offline. I'm up to Laguiole, which was our next stop after Belcastel. There was some confusion on checking out. There credit card computer was not yet hooked up to the phone line. We were there the night they opened for the season. They asked if we had cash. Who carries cash? They asked if we could give them a check. My wife said yes, in dollars on a NY bank. How many Americans have a French bank account? We've often thought about opening one, but with credit cards and a US account at a bank that adds no foreign currency conversion surcharge for ATM use abroad, it began to make very little sense without a French income. The outcome of all the confusion was that we forgot to ask for a menu, but we called the next day and they promised to send one to us in the states. It hasn't arrived. That's no excuse for not posting, but it would have been helpful in writing. We loved the food, but ran into a bit of opening night unpreparedness in other aspects. A few personal things to take care of and then a few words on Bras, although honestly I really enjoy writing about the places no one knows. Discovery may not be more exciting than perfection, but it has a different kind of interest.

We ate in les Bookinistes quite a few years ago. I think it was recently after it opened. We enjoyed our food immensely, but it was so long ago that I'm afraid to offer a real recommendation. At that time it was even open on Sunday. Paris is a wonderful place, but as an American, it's hard sometimes to understand how and why so many restaurants are closed on weekends. Looking through the list, most of the places I know are closed on Saturday. Let me offer two very guarded suggestions. One is Petrossian, where we didn't particualrly think Conticini showed his talents very well in the tasting menu. Truthfully, we hated eating those "teasers" from glasses. That the table was set with a formal setting of fish knives, sauce spoons, and all that were impossible to use in extracting the food, some of which really neeeded to be cut, from this highball glasses certainly drained our enthusiasm, but we left thinking that this food might be very good if plated more conventionally. I was particularly fond of all of the appetizers that used Petrossian's smoked fish. Admittedly this is a duck and run recommendation. Would I return, yes, but it's not a requirement for my next trip. His food has intrigued me more than it has satisfied. Another recommendation is for a place at which we've not eaten. If you're still reading, it's Van Laer's Maxence on blvd. Montparnasse on the periphery of the 6th, not far from the 7th. We were in Paris for the Salon du Chocolate last fall and had a taste of his terrine of hare with chocolate. We loved it. The chocolate is bitter or course and the taste quite suppressed. We tried to make a reservation but Maxence was closed the one evening we had free. It was a holiday. I believe Van Laer first attracted attention at le Bambouche in the 7th and that still seems to get good word of mouth and press. When we run out of luck or on weekends, Sundays in particular, I often turn to brasseries. Last summer we had good luck at les Grandes Marches on the place Bastille which really has simple contemporary restaurant food and chic contemporary decor, but the owners (the Flo Group) think of it as a contemporary version of a brasserie. It is somewhat remote from the 7th arr. Perhaps we can get a good updated rcommendation for les Bookinistes.

My guess is not always. I think it's possible to be quoted as an expert by the majority of the population just because you write for a journal that carries some authoritative establishment weight. I don't think the dining public is all that discriminating, at least not in NYC. Some critics may be quoted more often and in loftier circles, but that's about it. While a bad review has left some restaurants unscathed and cost chefs their jobs in others can be attributed to a number of things and it's hard to say if it's the food or the criticism. It's true that a restaurant with an established following is less likely to be hurt than one that's just opened. I actually started to write, because of the Consumer Reports methodology comments. A parody of Consumer Reports rating the top haute cuisine restaurants in NYC would be amusing. I suppose you'd start by trying to order the most similar dishes and weighing the foie gras and dividing the weight by the price to determine value. I'd expect a line noting how soon the panel members suffered hunger pangs after a three course menu and a tasting menu at each establishment. I have no idea how they'd rate the speed with which your courses were delivered or how long they'd let you occupy a table and if fast or slow would get the higher marks. Surely there'd be footnotes for those restaurants allowing the greatest latitude in substituting items on the tasting menu, as well as for those that would make a hamburger on request or privide ketchup if asked. A score for rmantic dining would be based on an accurately measured lighting level. And finally a panel of blindfolded diners eating in a soundproof booth would score all of the food based on taste alone. I only hope I haven't spoiled one of your plans for an up and coming newsletter.

Steve, for me, l'Astrance was such a clear standout at it's price that it isn't hard for me to recommend it, but I will agree that all recommendations are subjective and the even l'Astrance might not be the best place for everyone. Thinkart thought enough about that to ask members to say why when they made their recommendation. Although so much has already been written about l'Astrance on this board that it seems to superfluous to say it again, I also realize that the search function is to working as it should, or as it did. It should be noted that l'Astrance is creative food. I'd by no means call it fusion as the influences are so wide as to not call any particular foreign cuisine to mind. It's quite possible and not unreasonable that a first time visitor to Paris, especially one not familiar with avant garde cooking elsewhere might be better served at a more traditional restaurant or even a great bistro serving good old fashioned French food.

Pie is not croque monsieur.

Now that you are here and online with us, let me extend a welcome and thank you for that post. Members should know that I thought an American currently in a two star French kitchen would be a lively addition to our fold even before I knew Simon was an English major. I try to maintain an environment that is open and inviting to a wide variety of interests and opinions, but I have to say that if there are any out there that do not believe your posts could be of "some" value after reading your introduction, I suspect they are in the wrong place. My greater fear is that you will be bombarded with questions you don't have time to answer. Please don't let them drive you away. For those of you who aren't at all familiar with the world of fine cooking, this has porbably been a good introduction to what it's like to learn how to cook haute cuisine professionally. Simon, have you read Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential and if so, would you care to comment on differences between his kitchens and what you've seen so far? I don't mean to put you on the spot, but so many people have this impression of a kitchen as a haven for undisciplined misfits. I've known a few highly literate cooks and chefs. Some time ago when the pastry chef at Picholine, a Yale graduate, left, I understood she was replaced by a Princeton graduate. Our own Steve Klc is a good example of the erudite chef. Nevertheless it's terrific to have your skills here. I really enjoyed reading your intoduction for its style as well as it's content. In spite of the academically well educated cooks I've known and heard about, I have to ask if there weren't those in your first kitchen who didn't express the thought that they'd be gone in an instant if they had your academic degree.

Ah, the other thing that makes jams preferable to ties as souvenirs as well as onfather's day--they don't hang around forever in your closet reminding you of your lack of judgement.

My original question asked what guide books people rely on when planning an itinerary or making reservations. I didn't mean to exclude those books that are most useful as background reading. Of course the bistro guide in question might be used to make reservations in Paris in advance of leaving home and it might be used to prepare a list of addresses worth checking out after arrival, but that sort of book can also be used by first timers to get a feel for the food they will encounter and what to look for and order in France. This discussion should not be limited to books you actually carry in the glove comparment of your car. The nice thing about traveling early in the year is that you don't have to bring your old guides. It's the chance to pick up the new editions.

I've been at several gift shops, usually in R&C-Relais Gourmand establishements that have offered ties for sale. As my lifestyle rarely requires me to wear a tie except at weddings, funerals and fine meals, I've thought it would be neat to have a collection of ties associated with fine restaurants. Fortunately my sensible side kicks in pretty quickly and I have successfully fought the urge and been pleased with myself for that fact. Years ago I watched a Japanese gentleman enter the dining room at Geroges Blanc wearing one his ties obviously purchased that afternoon in the giftshop across the square. In my opinion this ties with gallic roosters are actually quite handsome, though I didn't bite. Anyway, shortly after he realized that all the waiters were wearing the same time, he excused himself from his table and returned a few minutes later witout his tie. We have limited ourselves to edible goodies such as jams and pates in jars. I feel that most of these items are a bit over priced for the label, but they make wonderful souvenirs for those that couldn't be with us at the table. In fact when we return from France, our bags are mostly filled with what I think of as grocery items although they are usually purchased from artisanal producers, or specialty shops. This would make a a good thread of it's own. Should anyone care to respond on what food stuffs they bring from France before I do, please start a new topic.

The virtues of traveling off season are many, but so are the pitfalls. For every opportunity to secure a reservation at a moments notice, there's an equal opportunity to dine alone and we have many a meal in an empty restaurant that deserved a lively crowd of happy diners. Trama was one. We called for a table at lunch at eleven the same morning. We understood the hesitance at the other end when we arrived an hour or two later. It wasn't that they couldn't fit us in. It was that we were the only diners that afternoon. Was it even worth the trouble to deal with us? We were passing through and as we had some distance to go and things to do and see that afternoon, we had a very light and simple lunch. It hardly gave us much insight to the extent of Trama's capabilities but it was an exceptionally pleasant meal and good value for the price. I share Lesley's amusement at what I thought was a rather affected table setting, but those things amuse me and do not distract from my meal. Dining alone in a coldly formal dining room was a bit of a turn off however. I really enjoy dining in a room where I can watch the activity of other diners eating and waiters serving. It all contributes to the theater aspect of a fine meal. This is something I was to discuss and will in another context.

That's funny because I recently had the duck confit there and really liked my coffee. I liked the coffee better than the duck and then it hit me. You said they "poured" you a cup of coffee and noted that "Balthazar is a French place." My response would be that a restaurant in France would be serving espresso. Of course an Italian woman would call American coffee dirty water. I don't think I've ordered anything but espresso after a trip to Italy some dozen years ago. I don't see how you could compare what Italians drink with American coffee, unless I'm mistaken and you ordered espresso. By the way, Starbucks doesn't make a very good espresso. Anyway the confit was good. I'm not sure the frisee was the best garnish, but I wish someone told me it came with the duck before I ordered a frisee salad for a first course.

Interesting point. I had already assumed dessert was carrots and oranges with the cardomom ice cream. Maybe that's because I had a dessert with carrots that Patrice made last week. At any rate, carrots seemed a perfectly logical dessert ingredient after Patrice's successful use. Come to think of it, Philippe Conticini prepared a dessert with carrots at the Salon du Chocolat in Paris last fall and that was also quite successful. One of the simplest successful uses of a vegetable for dessert was a piece of fennel stalk poached in syrup and served with home made vanilla ice cream. That was at Eric Frechon some years back in Paris. He's chef at the Bristol now.

I think the single best anything is always going to end up being someone's subjective choice and not everyone's first choice. I'm not sure I'd even care to name a "best" chef. Still, I'm not upset at Thomas Keller representing the US. I haven't got strong grips with anyone else on the panel, although I have no opinion on many of them as I don't know them at all. At least there are no clunkers who I know and feel shouldn't be on the list. The four from NY tend to be a bit more media exposed than some others who might cook as well. Charlie Trotter is an odd man out.

If I stopped after two disappointments, I'd be reading nothing but my own writing. Maybe even not that. I've often been disappointed by return visits to restaurants I liked the first time.

We bought a copy in French for a chef friend and had it autographed by Bras. I only had a brief glance at it before we gave it away, but it was beautiful.

I am as leery of recommending the Sylvia as I have been of recommending El Bulli. Neither is for everyone and I don't wish to make some sort of implication of value judgement, but frankly many people will not find it worth the effort or money or both. For several years, we've just been saying we're unhappy with the coffee we make at home. We bought the Sylvia and there was more than a little bit of question about whether it was worth the effort even after the price had been paid. The proof was in an inability to go back and less enjoyment of espresso in most restaurants. It's still a pain to make coffee, but the reward is certainly there. It's possible that a much more expensive automatic machine might be less effort--or it might offer less control.

I'd make reservations as far in advance as possible. That's generally one month. That's independant of wherever you choose. I guess my nomination would be l'Astrance. Michelin shows their best (most expensive) menu to be 76 euros and it includes wine. At the current exchange rate that leaves you change for tip and or coffee or bottled water. There's a 58 euro menu as well. I can't think of another place as special for the money.

One of the important things about any guide is how often it's updated. This is particularly true about restaurant guides. Patricia Wells' guide to Paris has been periodically revised but still generally more useful for food shops than restaurants which undergo change much faster. Addresses in her guide to the rest of France are growing stale and there seem to be no plans for a revision. The general information is still good and it's a useful book to have at hand, but too much is out of date to buy it, it it's still in print. Jaybee, do you know how often the Hamburger guide to bistros is revised?

Thank you Robert. That's an excellent suggestion. A few years ago we sent a report of our trip to Michelin and got back a nice note and special envelope with which to send in our next report. Contacting them by e-mail might be even better and of course, eGullet.com wouldn't mind the exposure. I'll look forward to the day I send a comment by email and get back the reply that they already know us and check the site regualrly.

Needless to say, desserts, boudins noirs and cream sauces are not on Pan's father's dance card. More importantly I'd caution against saying my father cannot take in dishes with a lot of fat or butter. You'd be surprised how much butter a French chef might not consider a lot. It's often very difficult to impress on waitstaff that you are very serious about your medical needs.

Cabrales, we all rely heavily on Michelin. That's what makes it a shame when it fails us--we've contributed to the power it has to make a chef whose food we may love, lose his job or his restaurant. Nevertheless, French cooks I know in NY, seem to hold the Michelin in higher regard than they do other guides as much as we do. The lack of information in Michelin is not a problem in regard to multistarred restaurants as so much else appears in print and online about them. That's why I often find it more interesting to report on a good one star provincial restaurant, but of course it's hard to choose a one star in a small town that has a two or three star restaurant. I don't even have to be hungry to crave the experience of the really great restaurant. I doubt I'll buy the Botttin, but it's nice to have access to the web version. The Michelin web site's ability to produce a set if driving instructions is quite incredible. My wife gave it a real test this past trip and we were loaded with alternate routes to consult at various points. The proximity of a restaurant to a rail station is interesting. As we generally travel by car, the one thing that really annoys me is a great restaurant without rooms that's not in an urban center. There were a number of them on our itinerary not long ago. While we used them for lunch and I carefully restricted my drinking, the food alone made driving afterwards quite difficult. Shortly after a very heavy meal at the Auberge de la Galoupe, we felt the need for me to pull over at a rest stop and take a good nap.

We've used Michelin and the Veranelli in Italy (Esilda can read, if not speak Italian rather fluently). What I loved most about it was that it gave a separate rating to the coffee served. It gave a few other individual ratings to other aspects of dining in a reastaurant, but the coffee rating was as good an indication of the importance Italians place on espresso. Not only would a restaurant that cared, serve good coffee, but a good espresso was a good reason to choose one restaurant over another and a bad one a reason to have coffee elsewhere. Those "guides" that appear on the tables and front desks are all self serving publicity, but not without some benefit to the traveler. The better associations of hotels, inns and restaurants provide a reliability from one place to another and are not slow to eliminate those who do not adhere to the standards set. I don't know if they still publish the Jeunes Restaurateurs de France. It was hardly a last word on new chefs, but it gave some pointers. Neither can I conisder Le Guide - Maîtres Cuisiniers de France anything like definitive. It may list Bocuse, Westermann and Nicole Fagegaltier, a personal favorite, as well as many French chefs with American restaurants such as Richard, Perrier, Delouvrier and Boulud, but Bras, Roellinger and Veyrat among others, are not members. Local guides such as Tables et Saveurs de Bretagne tend to list the usual suspects, but I always grab one and peruse it when I can. More than anything I suppose I rely on word of mouth and rumor to support my Michelin choices. Some mouths are more influential than others, naturally. It appears that eGullet.com will play an increasingly larger role in that regard as well, not that there's an eGullet.com voice. We will all find ourselves influnenced by particular members and I'll probably be more influended by positive comments rather than negative ones and more by what's said than by mere approval.

Back on the original subject of Michelin's power and the shame of losing Amat as chef at the St. James in Boulliac, I've noted in a new thread French food guides that GaultMillau gave Amat's St. James an 18/20 and the Bottin awarded 3 out of a possible 4 stars, but the lack of a second Michelin star is the reason given for Amat's departure. I'm curious to know who they will choose to replace him and if their choice will have second thoughts about taking the job. I'd be curious to know how Amat was regarded by his peers.