paul o' vendange

Awesome! My post got zapped but suffice it to say you inspired me to dig up an old “baguette de tradition” recipe, wish I could remember where I got it but it’s been many years. Straight dough, 3 hours bulk, proof, bake. 20 g w/w flour 20 g dark rye flour 360 g bread flour 275 g ice water (I don’t know why. I used room temp. Maybe because it was originally machine mixed? No idea. I slapped and folded). 200 g 100% hydration levain (I think the recipe calls for discard, but in this case I used peak levain) ¼ tsp instant yeast Autolyse 30 minutes. Add 9 grams salt and mix through. Stretch and fold 2 hours, total of 3 hours bulk or until double. 1 hour before baking, 500F; drop to 460F; 20 minute bake. Thanks for the idea. Nice to have a couple loaves ready for dinner. Would love to have your oven size. My little things don’t do the form proud. My son is pretty keyed to build a mud oven out back this spring, so fingers crossed.

Gorgeous Ann. Overnight - do you mean the remainder of your bulk, or you proofed overnight? I ask, because my enemy is over proofing - even at room temp and with no humidity, I’m in the oven by about 1 1/2 hrs. Truly beautiful. Any polish or bif a process, or straight ferment?

I love rabbit. I grew up hunting them in my hometown (Ventura, then sleepy, seaside Ventura, CA.). Chaparrals scented with sage, bay, anise, even expat fennel. Garrigue be damned, this was it’s sere cousin abundant in rabbit and other small game. Alas, rabbit is impossible to get locally. I’ve only sourced from D’Artagnan, but hoping to find other possibilities. Sorry if it’s been provided upstream (haven’t yet read through the entire thread), but anyone have a good place to get them? This is probably a hard no - but any line on hare?

I went down a Mere Brazier rabbit hole, and picked up a number of other books on her contributions, as well as Lyonnaise culinary history, culture and cuisine.

I have the Brazier but like so many others a mountain ahead of it. Such an important chef I need to move her to what I call my “speed rail”, a few shelves of books bedside I feel are fundamental and/or important in a way central to me. (Useless, since my “speed rail” is ever growing - looking at another 5-shelf bookcase across the foot of my bed loaded with “highest priority” texts meant to take up the “speed rail” back flow). Going to grab La Mere and move her close bedside. The Lisbon book looks great. My FIL loves Portuguese cuisine. Somewhere we have a small book on cooking in the Algarve we got from him. Your book goes to my cart. I have a similar “speed rail” of books on my cart. Only hundreds long, lol. It’s how I remember them.🤔

Thanks Jim. I did come across it and have it in my cart. I have volume 1 singly (another publisher, don’t have it handy at the moment) may just gather the other 4 as the total (with another, Royal pastry included) would be about half the cost of this set - though it looks great. You’re right on the antique books - weirdly, none of the ones I found say if it’s all 5 volumes in the one book or not. Just being unduly weird about paperback, I think. I’m such a Luddite in so many ways and somehow feel more «all is right with the world » with a good, heavy hardcover in my hands. Don’t bring up smoking jackets and single malt.😁 Thanks for the thoughts.

I’m afraid my cooking expertise with the special ingredient has been limited to the highest possible expertise in butter infusion, deep layers in brownies. I don’t like it. I have tried to cultivate a clear mind. But it helps a good deal.

I find it to be a bit confusing between all the versions but I would like to gather Careme’s work, preferably in hardcover. With this series, preferably 1 book containing all 5 volumes. In French, preferably. Anyway know of such a book?

Not really a cookbook I know, but I’ve never read it. For one thing, at Berkeley I studied comparative political and economic development, specifically the dynamics of nationalism and nation-state development in 19th century W. Europe, with Germany’s development into a unified state my emphasis. I’ve read plenty on the Franco-Prussian war but never from someone who experienced it directly. That it’s given by Escoffier is nothing short of magnificent. The plethora of menus is gold, too, especially what he pulled together for his division under siege and terrible privation.

Have really missed squab, so straight from TFL, indulged in foie as well, son has had neither squab nor foie gras, opportune time. Seared breast, red chard and dried black mission figs, foie gras, squab sauce. Terrible plate wipe was not from TFL. Just wanted to clear that up. Neither is the sauce soup. My family likes sauce, esp. my MIL. Good idea I provide it.

I am holding off on a long story about an even longer night, brutal WI farm winter overnight low and outdoor brewing a decoction mash intended as a light (« helles ») bock, a failed lauter screen.... -and a beer my wife ultimately named Hellundback Bock.

Wow, that looks delicious, Patti.

Thanks Heidi!

Ditto on all counts. Was just going to ask as well - what a cool technique and the first I’ve come across it, using the pickling liquid to retard amylases. (!) An Algerian baker friend of mine vastly prefers rye to wheat, whereas I’m the opposite - mostly because I just don’t have a feel for working within the biochemical constraints of the grain. My wife is Estonian, rye is their flesh, and it would be awesome to learn more of this.

Whoops, spaced this one, sorry. I hear you on him. I can’t quite pin it but somehow his masterly blending of the rustic and the refined gets me. His atelier and flavors of France especially have been really rewarding for me personally. I am guessing the Grand Livre will likely never be used, which kills me since I am pathetic in thinking any book, even pretty pictures, sure looks swell in my stacks. Likely not at that price, and not in this lifetime with Alba truffles, caviar, and endless mounds of foie. (bummed face). Thanks on the book ideas. I’ve got Astrance on my cart but can’t seem to find it anywhere but the stratospheric Amazon thing ($609? Do I hear $3103.69? $1423? ), but very much hope to get it at some point. Ironically your post came back to memory as I received Alexandre Gauthier’s book, which I’d had high hopes for. Pretty disappointed. Aside from the fact it isn’t a hardcover in any way I’ve ever seen (exposed binding? Is that a “cover board” or something like that? Really a collection of gorgeous food and idyllic country, very spare on writing. Just not my style. Saw a reviewer who felt the same, and he or she recommended Astrance very highly, which triggered me in remembering your post. Thanks again for the rec’s and thoughts. Eyes opened....! At the end of the day, I should just admit and accept I’m a terminal classicist, with limited gifts - merely an eternal longing for mastery, not invention. Good god...just got “Les Fastes de la Cuisine Française” today. In my heart, I’d be no happier than learning at the feet of Carême... edit: Thanks on the Alleno, too. Know almost nothing about him so was grateful for the suggestion. A bit steep there too for the moment, but eyes peeled.

Man I wish there were a dozen or so more emoticons....YIKES. YUMMMMM.

That’s so cool it’s in her book. Been a long time since I’ve visited Julia, about time I say hello again. (« Julie and Julia » doesn’t count, I know!). No false modesty here, Heidi, but you and so many here are the inspirations. I’m really grateful all you all have done to keep this community thriving.

Same dough day later, some palmiers. I’m hoping this isn’t just a one off, but even after an additional turn this morning (to coat dough in sugar before final rollout), and using 100% bread flour (11.7% protein), this dough was a real pleasure to work with. Now, of course, there is that $10K yearly Beurre d’Isigny or Echire budget I have to work out with the family.🥳

Very cool. Never made them but quick look sure looks like them!

Thanks Heidi. The filling is really nothing more than a pastry cream with a microplane zest of a whole lemon. The starch is 100% cornstarch, which is interesting to me. Way too rubbery on it’s own, I think it works great as a filling here.

I’ve actually never made inverse puff pastry before. Idea from the Ferrandi Patisserie book using lemon crème bichon, with inverse puff from Chef Lindsey Farr. Have to say, it’s been a long time, but from memory, this method beats out traditional puff for me. Eager to play with the stuff. Calling them “clamshell lemon turnovers.”

Um, baker’s 10?😆 That would be 37% WW. I think. Give me a second, I only have a dozen fingers to count on.

I go with Central Milling, usually their organic line, for my white flour and whole wheat in fine and medium. I originally tried their « Beehive, » which comes in at 10.7% protein. Great baguettes and levain, as long as hydration isn’t high on either. My base from them is their Baker’s choice Plus, clocking in at 11.7%. Performs beautifully. Interesting ng the whole wheat they sell is listed as « Hi-Pro,” in three milling grades. They tout a gentle milling process that significantly lessens shearing. I’ve made 100% WW Hi-Pro (fine) with spring and openness approaching straight white flour levains. My go-to is my best emulation of a traditional French pain au levain, with 63% Baker’s Choice and 27% Hi-Pro fine. I like it a lot.

Oh god, I didn’t about Floyd and Aaron. Fatima’s passing ripped a hole...like you I was smittened by her a great deal. Seeing her so ill and reading some of her final words, knowing she and Padma had become good friends through to her death was all so bittersweet, stings every time to see such a beautiful life gone. In a different way, a hole opens up every time we see Tony Bourdain. God we miss him too, and still don’t fully get it that he’s gone. Such a force of wild nature, who closed the world’s strangeness to itself. Peace to their memories.

Watching season 3 as we write. Tre, a strong fave of mine, eliminated last night. My my wife actually worked with Dale at a Chicago spot. He was bartending in a sort of breather. He’d been on the show by then, but couldn’t talk. Trippy to see him on the show.