Wolfert

hi everyone, I was actually holding off on this subject. I have promised to do a moroccan cooking class for egullet early next year. But I can see you're all hungry to know what I think about the subject, so here goes a very quick summary: tannour, tabouna and tandir are pretty much stationary ovens with heat coming from beneath. Testo, tegamo, tians and tagras are portable ovens cooked between two sources of heat (top and bottom)--and in the case of the amphora shaped tangia--- smothered in coals). The tagine in Tunisia also uses top and bottom heat to cook its frittata type tagines. Only Algeria and Morocco use the conical topped tagine called toujan in Berber. It is thought to be Berber in origin. As you all know it uses collected steam to baste and cook food as it sits over one source of heat. I am not sure if gastra cooking in the balkans works in a similar way with its cloche or bell type top. I'd love to know

Hi Seth: In Morocco, many types of lemons are put up in salt. Some are used in cooking while others are best in salads. The mildly aromatic thick-skinned, limun buserra, a yellow, shiny, lemon with a nipple at each end, is similar to our California Eureka lemon. Every winter, I put up a batch of Eurekas in coarse salt to be used in cooking. They take about a month to ripen. I think this is what you used and I can promise you it is authentic. The fragrant, thin-skinned lim doqq, the creme de la creme of Moroccan lemons, is similar to the American hybrid Meyer lemon in appearance, but not in aroma or flavor. Both are small lemons with a greenish yellow pulp, very juicy and aromatic. Preserved Meyer lemons can be used to flavor olives, salads and vegetables in brine. Sometimes this lemon turns a bit tan with time. Or with preservatives. By the way, in the town of Fez, there is yet another sweet lemon called lim lamsayyar. It, too, is thin-skinned and small with a sweet flavor. Fassis (citizens of Fez) consider it the finest lemon in Morocco to preserve. It is also known as "lime," Mediterranean sweet lemon" and "limetta." If you visit Fez you can buy this lemon already preserved in salt in jars. I haven't seen this lemon in a jar in a long time and am wondering if this could be the lemon you saw. Do you have the producer's name? You might have discovered something really special.

When I make a rhubarb tart, I wash the rhubarb, discard any leaves and trim the ends. (if the rhubarb is late season, old or thick, pull off the strings). With a very sharp knife I cut each stalk into 1-inch x 1/2-inch pieces then toss it with sugar in a glass or ceramic bowl then I cover and refrigerate it overnight. The following day, I drain the rhubarb in a colander set over a large skillet; press firmly on the rhubarb to extract as much juice as possible then boill the juice over high heat until it is syrupy and reduced to a few tablespoons, about 5 minutes. Cool and use it to glaze the drained rhubarb. I love the flavor of anise and orange zest with rhubarb so I add it now then fill a patially baked tart and finish the tart.

I'm wondering how a chef would feel if he went to a restaurant, saw on the menu a dish credited to him...and then orders it only to discover it is an awful rendition.

it's a sickness, i assure you. on the other hand, this collection started about 46 years ago. I like to think I've accumulated about 72 books a year...or less than 2 a week!

no, I was figuring 101 yards or 303 feet and each foot standing in for 10 to 12 cookbooks.

Hi Maggie: I can throw about 101 yards into the pot. I've been collecting a long time. My first purchase was the "Glamour Magazine after-five cookbook" That was back in the 50's. My collection had nowhere to go but up.

It's hard to imagine this taking off in New York. Then maybe we're not getting the whole picture. For example, Istanbul is full of 'pudding' shops with dozens of different types of milk puddings including many based on rice. The names of them aren't half as seductive as the ones described above, but despite the lack of seductive names, these shops have been in business for decades and are very popular as hangouts for singles and lovers.

If you keep those gloves on, simply rub the tender raw leaves with coarse salt, rinse the leaves , and you can use them in any recipe.(Salt seems to work as well as blanching.) About the stems? I've always used just the top 3 or 4 leaves. Nettles are delicious in Greek phyllo pies instead of the usual spinach, risottos and soups. Also paired with leeks, cream, butter, yogurt, bulgur, pasta dough, and eggs. And they are supposed to be really good for you! And if that is not enough, I recently read you can curdle milk with the leaves and make a fresh cheese.

[ Kim: I've done that. Only once! Try adding half the milk then quickly pour egg-flour-milk through a strainer into a bowl. Reheat the rest of the milk for a second and add stirring.

First, I want to thank you for testing the recipe. I really appreciate the thoughtful comments. The recipe: I worked very hard to copy Patissier Antoine's caneles. A few friends from the region agree that I have come close. His caneles are creamy on the inside and crusty on the outside. A hefty version of creme brulee comes to mind. Most Bordeaux bakeries make a similar version: the texture is the same; the flavoring varies with many using a little orange or orange blossom water instead of rum or along with teh rum. One bakery, Le canelé Baillardran, (Spécialité de Bordeaux - http://www.canele.com/), is very commercial and has canele stands all over the city. I suspose you could say he is the starbucks of bordeaux.His version is breadier in texture and longer lasting. In fact, he is able to mail his caneles all over the world. the shrinkage: All the caneles I saw in Bordeaux shops and homes used the 3-ounce size mold and all baked to a tad shorter than the original mold. Personally, I didn't see this slight shrinkage as a problem since they are eaten out of hand. I can see where this would be a problem with a smaller mold. shrinkage could be from not letting the batter rest long enough. I usually wait two days or freeze and defrost slowly. ON the other hand, I have noticed 1/4 inch shrinkage when I use some of my molds. I have two types of copper molds: 12 purchased in Bordeaux; another 8 from jbprince. I've examined them carefully and have noticed that the ones from Bordeaux are a bit narrower. i.e. more elegant. The ones from jbprince have an ever so slight flare at the top. The caneles baked in the narrow molds don't seem to rise as much as those baked in the other molds. Can anyone explain this to me? (Www.culinarion.com sells the Bordeaux canele molds.) I suspose there is a patent on the bordeaux style molds, or why else do they do this? THanks to Kit , I purchased the silicon flex molds from Bridges. I have tried the gastroflex and du bayer and found them worthless. Due to the heftier weight of these new ones from Bridges, I produced a very acceptable canele, albeit some strange striping along the crevices. There was little shrinkage. food processor: Antoine uses a huge mixer to combine his batter, so I just followed suit with my food processor.. I think it efficiently combines the flour and butter, then quickly works in the eggs, etc etc ..Homemakers in Bordeaux do it all by hand. Again, thank you so much for trying out my recipe. "The canelé is an artisanal product, so sometimes it doesn't come out perfectly," ----Antoine, Patissier of Bordeaux

Thank you so much.

You are absolutely right! Nothing can compare with the ethereal creamy yogurt made from buffalo's milk. How wonderful to add Vermont to the list of places where you can find it: the republic of Georgia; and the small towns of southeastern Turkey. Do you have the name of the creamery?

Toasting in the oven tends to dry them out; frying in oil makes them greasy. I think it is best to slowly "toast" them in a dry skillet with just a drop of oil.

The Spanish refer to marconas as the "Queen" of almonds, hence the hefty price. They are very expensive even in Spain, and they don't stay fresh for very long. I think 10 dollars a pound is a good price . I just checked and it's the same price at the Spanish Table based in Seattle. www.tablespan.com Try them slowly toasted with a drop of olive oil in a skillet until golden, then salt to taste.

In Bordeaux, caneles are considered at their most glorious 1 to 5 hours out of the oven when they are crusty on the outside and still ever so slightly warm within. As they stand they get a little soft and chewy on the outside. Most patissiers who have the time reheat them in a hot oven for 5 minutes so their shelf life can be extended Rose Levy Beranbaum told me that one patissier she knew used to flame his canele with rum every 5 hours. I have never tried it.. Pierre Herme's wife once complained that if a canele sits around too long "the texture gets so soft you can use one as a substitute for a sponge"

Thank you so much for describing the differences between the caneles at payard and balthazar. So much for trusting someone else's tastebuds. Now, I can't wait to go to NY, and try them both.

The recipe on the website is my attempt to duplicate the one given to me by patissier Antoine of Bordeaux. I think his canele is delicious. As for the Balthazar version, I've been told my canele is very similar in texture and taste to the one they make. I haven't been there to try it, but it is one of the first things I want to do when I go to NY this fall. Hope this info helps. And thanks for your kind words about the piece.

Thank you so much for the detailed answers to my questions. I'm curious enough to try one sheet and will order asap now that I know they are available in the 3 0z size. Since I've only worked with copper molds, I have never experienced that middle line. I,too, have found that waiting two days before using makes the caneles creamier inside. And, you can freeze the mixture and after defrosting and baking it is even better. Some caneles are too cake-y inside for my taste. If you get around to trying my adaptation of patissier Antoine's recipe, you'll notice the procedure is quite different: milk is added to the egg yolks after they are mixed into the flour +butter+ sugar blend. In my experience this helps to create a very creamy interior. I will try those chocolate ones as well. They look yummy. Again, I can't thank you enough

Kit: I can see that caneles are your passion. Mine too! And your description of success with the silicone molds from Bridge kitchenware is very exciting. If the molds are the right size, that is each one has a 3 oz capacity. I certainly want to buy a few sheets from Bridges. Thank's so much for the tip. If you have the time, would you mind answering some questions? Do you chill the wax and butttered silicone molds before baking? Are you using the large 3 ounce size mold? Do you get a really good crackling crunch? Is the texture of the filling a gentle rich custard? Many thanks Paula

I think you're very lucky. Other readers might find themselves stuck with "white asses" What to do?. Do what the the patissiers of Bordeaux do, run the tops under a broiler for a second to brown the crown.

for themini=bundt molds: simply brush lightly with butter. When they are black on the outside they're done. Inside this fat cannele there's a skinny canele de bordeaux screaming to get out. EAt it as if it was for real!!!

I agree with you about some ground spices, certain canned tomatoes (san marzano), and store squeezed orange juice. I hate squeezing orange juice!

I don't bring milk to a boil because the flavor tends to change. The temperature of 183 is just a conversion from the celsius given to me by chef Antoine. By the way if you have a convection oven , the results are spectacular.