bourdain

I'd say that a prominent chef who loudly and publicly foreswears foie gras on supposedly "moral" or "ethical" grounds--and who publicly and sanctimoniously chastises an entire industry--and other chefs for continuing to serve it--yet serves it himself is indeed a hypocrite. By any definition. Foie gras is hardly Trotter's "livelyhood". It's private behavior that contradicts a very public stance. Much like a loudly anti-gay moral majority mouthpiece who privately buggers cub scouts. There is absolutely no comparison to a muslim or a jew who--to support themselves--choose to handle pork as part of a daily job. Trotter is a public figure--a chef of international prominence, with successful businesses, who chose to make news of his supposed moral choice. The ripple effect of that decision (on other chefs, in his industry--and to foie gras purveyors and producers) was--as he surely knew--significant. That Trotter feels it's okay to continue serving foie while publicly criticizing others for the same act defines the word hypocrisy. It's that simple. Well? Are vegetarian/Moslem/Jewish cooks/chefs hypocrites if they cook and serve food that they deny for themselves in order to adhere to a belief system? ←

Hypocrisy: "a feigning to be what one is not or to believe what one does not; especially : the false assumption of an appearance of virtue or religion"

NEWS FLASH: I can now report with authority that only a short while (within the last few weeks) before sanctimoniously slamming Rick Tramonto, Trotter was serving multiple courses of foie gras with fellow chefs Tetsuya Wakuda and Heston Blumenthal at his restaurant. Apparently--when Charlie says he's against serving foie gras, he means he's against serving it to his regular customers. It means he's against OTHER people serving it. My source on this is first hand. Meaning one of the two chefs. Bad enough abandoning his fellow chefs in their time of need (see the Manrique incident). And giving comfort and succour to the enemy. But he is now clearly and indisputably full of shit. Let Trotter now publicly flop on his belly and fess up. Tramonto was right. He IS a hypocrite.

BLIND ITEM: And...what did a certain supposedly non-foie-serving chef serve multiple courses of to pals Tetsuya Wakuda and Heston Blumenthal recently at his restaurant? A witness sitting nearby claims.... you guessed it!

One wag in the know asks: "Which candidate for three stars in NY gives the Michelin people free rooms and free food and advises them on who deserves and who doesn't?" " Which front runner for three stars in NY has barely touched food himself in nearly twenty years? Not even a salad?" Other factors to consider (or not) when playing the Michelin guessing game: Michelin has a huge readership outside of the US (European tourists and Japanese). So Michelin IS an important factor--even if Zagat's evil influence continues unabated. Michelin dissing the most deserving American(Keller)--when they hope and plan to expand to other US cities--would send a dismaying message, one likely to be siezed upon by eager-to-dismiss francophobes. "Keller doesn't get three? Who among us does?" would be the inevitable conclusion. Followed by a resounding "Fuck it." Not the way to build an empire. I don't know that three stars Michelin in France is the standard that will or SHOULD be applied here. Particularly as it has proven to be an unworkable business model--and as American expectations are more casual. Can a US restaurant really charge 40 dollars for a bowl of soup? I take the Michelin people at their word--that the reviews will focus more on the FOOD--and less on the linens and glassware and service. In general, I think the arrival of Michelin is a positive development. In spite of their proven shortcomings in France, I believe their standards and practices to be more reliable, useful and meaningful than the Zagnuts. I think Keller BETTER get three. I think Ducasse is a shoe-in.

This is a really interesting subject--the culinary "tipping point". My theory, for some time, has been that the most significant point in modern North American culinary history was that moment when Westerners decided it was alright--even desirable--to eat sushi. That barrier-crossing raised all boats for all chefs of every stripe. Suddenly it was permissable to serve mackerel, octopus, fish roes, sardines and other traditional European seafood that were once largely shunned. What chefs found to be acceptable quality in seafood lept--as there was always a Japanese restaurant willing to pay for the good stuff (hence creating reliable demand for more variety and better quality). And once the bone-deep aversion to eating raw fish disappeared, other barriers fell as well. The dining public became more daring and willing to experiment.

a pork bun from a no-name place on West 38th...gooood.

Couple a weeks ago. I believe I received special treatment--but a lot of the stuff appears on the regular menu, I think. In any case, he's getting a lot of attention for offal--and deserves to be encouraged.

Inspired by Gael Greene's comment during a spirited game of Death Row Meal that she'd pick Onera as a likely spot, I headed over for a superb tasting menu : Pixti: jellied head cheese of pork (smashing) Goat Tripe and Kidney Salad: with sliced onion and chinati vinaigrette Calf Brains: with fennel, dill and crispy shallots (spectacular--and I'm not usually a brain fan) Crispy Sweetbreads with foie gras dumpling, chicken liver sauce, sheep milk creme fraiche-and aged balsamic vinegar (didn't like the chicken liver sauce--otherwise good) Manti Reinvented: Bone marrow and chesnut stuffed ravioli, wild mushrooms and veal jus (I think this is on the regular menu--and it should be. Great. Just reading what's in it you KNOW it's gotta be good, right?) Lamb Heart with crispy artichokes, lemon oil, avgolemono (great tweak of a classic) Goat Liver with crushed lentils and duck confit Braised Tongue Ragout Porcini Mushrooms and white beans, soft poached egg, braising jus. ( Over-the-top and luxurious) I was really impressed with what they're doing-particularly as I've never had a feel--or much sympatico for Greek food, or the Greek flavor spectrum. This place did a lot to change my thinking. A much needed addition to the West Side wasteland.

It accurately debunks that assertion--and explains--in detail--the many factors (interior and external) leading up to Loiseau's tragic suicide. It's a really good book, written by a guy who knew Loiseau pretty well, knows the world of 3 starred Michelin restaurants, understands the food and what's involved in making and serving it. It's a uniquely knowledgable and incisive look at a much misunderstood subject. Right up there with Ruhlman's best. And waaay better than the stultifyingly boring and repetetive Boulud hummer of a while back. Highly recommended.

I just finished mine. A fascinating book. Really well done. It'll be much discussed here when it comes out I'm sure.

I'm gratified to see it acknowledged that "AT LEAST" 36% of NY restaurant workers are illegal immigrants. I think this is likely a conservative figure. It is common knowledge that the entire NY industry would collapse overnight if every Mexican and Ecuadoran (for instance) decided to stay home. (See film: "A Day Without A Mexican") As some readers here will know, it's one of the things that sickens me most about the Beard House and the faux-adulatory coverage of the business in general: that WHO is cooking, REALLY doing the cooking is so blithely overlooked--though it is, of course, right in front of our eyes. I'm curious to know the number of NY restaurant workers who USED TO BE illegal immigrants--as it is one of the few, real, encouraging aspects of the business as I've seen it. The restaurant business--the cooking part of it, anyway remains, in spite of all its faults (lack of health coverage being prime), one of the last true meritocracies, where a female line cook from the mountains of Ecuador can beat out a candy-ass white boy with a college degree for the same job--and for the same money. Unions? I'm against. They have--unfortunately--often institutionalized mediocrity--and if anything, exclude the more talented and motivated in favor of the tenured-but-lame-o. Latinos who slip into this country undetected, do the hard work of cooking in our restaurants, work their way up the line, rent and buy homes, pay taxes, eventually seek citizenship or legal status should be celebrated as perhaps the best example of the original American dream. What most of us born here sadly see as a birthright, they see as a very real--and attainable--ideal. Government policy, the restaurant industry, and the "foodie press" should do everything they can to acknowledge this--and to encourage it. Rarest Species in New York: An American-born dishwasher. That says it all. Who makes the best cooks? Ex-dishwashers.

Actually, I'm really looking forward to this show.

What Ruhlman has neglected to mention is that he--and all the other judges, will be dressed in cerulean blue (yet presumably fire retardent) judge's robes--complete with Rehnquist-style shoulder stripes. Contestants will wear electro-shock dog collars with dimmer switches, so that--should Ruhlman or his peers become displeased during the course of events-- they can make their unhappiness known in painful increments. I have no doubt that brutalizing aspiring culinarians in this way will only provoke the famously sadistic former dungeon master of Cleveland to even worse extremes. Suckled on the rigorous ThunderDome-like CMC exam , Japanese dental porn and the worst of the German rubber and latex-related filmmakers' oevre, he'll take to this job like Charlie Manson in an abbatoir.. I hope the producers stock plenty of lithium and thorazine--and keep their fingers close to the "beep" button. When Ruhlman's foul mouth gets going he makes Gordon Ramsay sound like Aunt Bea. "That's BEEPing NOT what "Mr. E" would do--is it, you despicable little goldfish dropping!?! Would "Mr. E" make BEEP! like this? Well? WOULD HE?!! You gonna cry, now, BEEPface? Gonna cry? And your croutons are burning..C'mon BEEPferbrains, MOVE!! MOVE YOUR FAT BEEPING BEEP YOU RAT-BEEP BEFORE I YANK OUT YOUR EYES AND SKULL--BEEP YOU" Would be an example of Michael in a good mood. This slaughterfest sounds like a dream come true for Cleveland's cruelest. God help the contestants. And God help us all.

Had a very good classic cheesesteak with "Wiz" at Tony Luke's recently. Found it excellent.

FROM THE TIMES: "When Bob Lape, a restaurant critic for Crain's New York Business and a host of "Bob Lape's Dining Diary" on WCBS-AM, married Joanna Pruess, a food writer, in September, they persuaded 20 celebrated New York chefs, including Wayne Nish of March and Christian Delouvrier of Alain Ducasse, to contribute food to a potluck reception at the Central Park Boathouse. D'Artagnan shipped over complimentary foie gras, a point made clear on little cards on the tables. Paramount ponied up the caviar." Hey! Sounds perfectly ethical to me! I'm sure they're all just really really good friends! In the meantime I'll be hanging on to Lape's every disinterested utterance.

Jeffrey Chodorow is no dummy. And Claude Troisgros can certainly cook. And I--let us be clear--have not eaten at the bizarrely named (but reportedly good) new Rocco-replacement, CAVIAR AND BANANA BRASSERIO. Hell, it might be the best restaurant ever, for all I know. But Caviar? Bananas? In the same breath? Does that SOUND appetizing? Does that make you..well..hungry? Presumably--in fact--there's no question-- that Chodorow and Troisgros are surrounded by smart, savvy people--but like Donald Trump leaving the house, noone seems to have the stones to say "Uh..dude...have you looked at your hair?" (Or in this case, " Uh..boss? Is that really the best name we can come up with for a Brazilian themed restaurant?") I thought it would be fun to invite gulleteers to take part in an exciting new contest idea in which posters suggest WORSE, even LESS attractive names for a restaurant. (Admittedly a tough task). As many as you like! Everyone's a winner! I'll start: 1) Anal Seepage 2) Swelling, Itching Cafe 3) The Herring and Marshmallow Sports Bar and Grill 4) Fistula Lounge 5) TGI McSquid'n Stuff 6) Ye Olde Vegemite and Durian Ice Cream Parlor and Karaoke Grill 7) Putts and Sluts (Driving Range/Topless Bar/and All U Can Eat Fusion!) 8) Rocco's Too

The question of what happened to the very fine--but never-aired episodes of My Country My Kitchen featuring Eric Ripert's return to Spain and Andorra--and Gordon Ramsay's return to Glasgow might be germane to this thread.. They "talk funny" perhaps?

Just wanted to say that the fantastically well-connected Louisa did a tremendous job as "fixer" for the new (as yet officially untitled show). She showed herself as well to be possessed of Herculean endurance; knocking back early morning Calvas and more than keeping up with our wine-swilling ways through lunch and into the wee hours. Outstanding work. She made it all "video gold".

Loving this thread. ....great stuff.

Mexicans ONLY.

I'm seeking names and restaurants of high-end/"nouvelle" Mexican chefs, operating in the USA who--unlike--say Rick Bayless and Jose Andres--are actually MEXICAN. Home grown Mexican chefs creating any variety of Mexican fusion are also of interest. Your informed input would be much appreciated.

The Clermont Lounge. Best bar--EVER!

The book is destined to be a Beard award winner. Thanks. But not bloody likely.