Jump to content

zilla369

eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • Posts

    1,244
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by zilla369

  1. Pastry chef by default.

    Just out of culinary school, i scored a job in the kitchen of a new restaurant. The restaurant is the brainchild of the Exec Chef and Chef de Cuisine of The Oakroom at the Seelbach here in Louisville. These guys decided to go out on their own, and their reputation (only AAA 5-diamond restaurant in the state) is what they're building on. They quit the hotel and opened their own spot. The slogan/motto is: "New Southern Cooking, Old Southern Charm".

    I was going to be a "salad bitch". They hired three of us for pantry, promising to eventually rotate us into the hot line. But, shortly before opening, although we had been told they would probably farm out the desserts and just have the pantry people plate them - one afternoon, Chef said: "which one of you is comfortable with desserts?"

    One of the girls said "I'm not really comfortable with that," - to which Chef replied: "Well, at least you're honest." The other one said nothing. In a moment of delerium, i heard myself saying "Chef, i can do that."

    Now, keep in mind, i just have a "culinary arts" degree. I consciously did not pursue a pastry & baking degree. I like savory food. I like the heat and the fire of the hot line. It was a pretty surreal moment, but i remember thinking here's a way for me to distinguish myself in their eyes.

    So i went home that night and did lots of research and came in the next day with a list of desserts i thought would fit with the restaurant's theme.

    I pretty much got shot down. We're doing six desserts, but only one of them was exclusively my idea.

    So, as a result, i've been refining the recipes and platings of the desserts mostly picked by the Chef. They're pretty good, and people seem to like them, but fairly soon, we'll start doing dessert specials, especially for the tasting menu. Here's what we're serving so far:

    Brown Sugar Pear Poundcake with Poached Pears - The cake is Ben and Karen Barker's (Magnolia Grill) recipe, with the addition of pears poached in port. The menu consultant named this dessert "Drunken Pair". The sauce is a sassafrass anglaise.

    Bourbon Bread Pudding with Sorghum Sauce and Sorghum Creme Fraiche.

    Warm Apple Clafouti - this is basically apples cooked in sugar and butter and cinnamon, lined up in a boat-shaped single serving dish, and covered with a thin batter, almost like a pancake batter, and baked, then topped with powdered sugar and locally-produced gourmet "bourbon-ball" ice cream, with a curly molasses tuille as a garnish.

    Classic Creme Brulee with Fresh Berries - this is the best creme brulee recipe i've ever tasted, it's fantastic. I sell a LOT of this.

    "Bluegrass Napolean" is a sweet biscuit made with the addition of "sourmash flour" - the dry leavings from bourbon-making, ground into a flour (it's kind of purple), added to the flour in a buttermilk biscuit recipe. The biscuit is halved, topped with a berry trio that's been marinated in bourbon and sugar, and hand-whipped cream.

    Chocolate Chess Pie - this is my biggest seller so far. I'm not a big chocolate fan ( I HATE melting chocolate!), but this was the one dessert that was my idea, and people seem to love it. It's topped with the whipped cream and mint, and i plate it with a strawberry flower and mint leaf.

    So....for a special, my first instinct was coconut cream pie.

    Anybody have any ideas? Any comments on what i'm serving so far? I'm also serving a Godiva Chocolate biscotti as an amenity with the check.

    Gimme some southern ideas. I want to do a sweet potato riff, maybe a sweet potato creme brulee, or a sweet potato cheesecake (although Chef says cheesecake is "so 1998". Heh.)

    By the way, i've already experienced all those things i've heard folks moan about....no burners available to melt chocolate...ovens mysteriously turned up in the middle of baking something, resulting in burned product...shooed off the hot line after helping prep entree food but still needing a burner to reduce sauce....frustrating, very frustrating, but rewarding when you find a way to get around it. Can't spare me a burner for a double-boiler? Then i'll melt my chocolate - very carefully - on the edge of the grill :rolleyes:

  2. Dean, and everybody -

    So sorry to report that I can't come. Huge thanks to Jaymes for offering to pick me up, and to Aurora and Katie Loeb for offering to billet me in their room.

    Since the restaurant i'm at has just opened, i need to stay put since that week will be prime time for the local restaurant critic to swing through, and, since i've morphed from salad bitch to pastry person, i want and need to be there.

    I'll miss you all so much. Hopefully i can attend the 2nd annual :biggrin: or spring bi-annual version.

  3. When we served lunch to the Order of the Golden Toque last year at school, we made a goat cheescake with strawberry/black pepper coulis. Still definitely a dessert, but refreshingly not too sweet. I love this whole idea, i'm anxiously awaiting the final menu, Michael!

  4. Joyce, thanks once again for participating in this Q&A. I'm sure I echo the sentiment of many eGullet posters when I say that it's a real honor to have you answer our questions.

    A few years ago, an acquaintance of mine, writer Cyndi Lamb, collected recipes from dishes traditionally served at wakes ("funeral receptions") in the midwest, specifically Kentucky. The working title of the cookbook was "Wake Grub" (I'm not sure if it was ever formally published). In addition, my heritage, which is Irish, includes a strong tradition of lengthy, fond, send-offs, especially for those friends that depart this world after a long and fruitful life. These wakes always include elaborate feasts or buffets, and in the case of the Irish, lots of drinking and reminiscing. As a result, I'm always interested in the traditions (especially culinary) of other cultures during those bittersweet times. I'm curious if there are any soul food traditions related to mourning, and, if so, would love to hear a description.

    Thanks again,

    Marsha Lynch

  5. I work in an amazing grocery store ( check out centralmarket.com). I wear an apron that says "foodie" on it. A coworker and I invented the foodie position 6 years ago. Our job is to educate our customers on the products they buy. I can help you choose: a marinade for sea bass, an olive oil to drizzle over your bean soup, a wheat-free tamari, a salad dressing for spinach salad, a vegetarian option for a dinner party, a glaze for pork tenderloin....I can find you a recipe for potato soup, tell you how to use mole, cuitlacoche, rosti, and garlic juice...I can help you organize a dinner party for 12 ....find "foreign" foods for your 12 year old's social studies project...

    To us, foodie denotes "food expert". I'm not embarrassed to wear the apron.

    That sounds like a fantasy job! I'm jealous. I just love helping people figure out stuff, and have often had wistful thoughts about being a "food concierge".

  6. You can put anything you like in your potato salad. It's the dressing that makes it or breaks it.

    A couple years ago i stumbled across a recipe for potato salad dressing, made a couple of adjustments, and have never looked back.

    2 eggs

    1/2 c. sugar

    1 tsp. dry mustard

    2 Tbsp. flour

    1/2 c. good red wine vinegar

    1/2 c. water

    Cook until thick over low heat, stirring constantly.

    Cool. Mix equal amount of this recipe salad dressing with

    equal amount mayonnaise - I use Duke's or Hellman's.

    That being said, in my potato salad i use small red new potatoes (cooked then cubed), chopped "bread and butter" pickles, diced red and yellow bell peppers, scallions cut on the bias, tons of chopped flat-leaf parsley (rinsed well), shaved celery, fresh ground black pepper, and celery salt.

  7. I've never seen a formula except for the standard proportions given in the unit.

    Does any one else know?

    As a rule of thumb, i have written down in my notes from school that 14-16 oz of white roux will thicken a gallon of liquid. These notes are from a class where we were working on cream soups. Ratio 8:1 seems to work pretty well.

  8. Just today, i picked up my black shoulder bag in a hurry from the kitchen table on my way to fill out tax forms for my new job that starts in a couple weeks. I was wearing a blindingly white freshly laundered t-shirt and checks.

    Got to the restaurant, threw the straps of the bag up on my shoulder, went in and met the chef. We sat down to fill out paperwork, i took the bag off my shoulder to set it aside, and...somehow, and i KNOW this was not me, because i hadn't eaten any... apparently a wad of raspberry preserves had been dripped onto the inside of the black shoulder strap of my purse, and hung on all during the car ride until i carried the bag into the restaurant on my shoulder. So when i set the bag down, there was a big, sticky purple smear all over the front of the armpit section of my white t-shirt.

    And i don't even have any children. Just a roommate that must have eaten jam for breakfast.

    edited becuase i remember once getting into a friend's car with a triple-scoop ice-cream cone and not realizing he had the automatic shoulder-strap restraints. bzzzzzzzzz..."OH MY GOD!"

  9. At the restaurant where i'm staging, they simply dredge in seasoned flour, dip in egg wash, dredge in panko, and deep fry in salad oil. Kinda blah, though. I think i'd add some cayenne to the flour and use cornmeal in the final dredge if i was doing it at home. Also, might use peanut oil and pan-fry.

  10. Is he referring to what we saw on TV from the wrong side of the powder room door, does some camera man have an entertaining "home movie," or is there a DVD version to come--brought to you by the guys who did "College Girls Gone Wild on Spring Break?"

    This quote is from Gideon's site this morning:

    What you didn't see was later that night. Remember I tell her, "See you after the shift." We had a 5-person camera crew follow us to her place after we went out. It was probably the oddest thing I've ever done. There we are in her bed making out, Carrie's top is off, I'm in my underwear and there's this tattooed boom mic operator over us trying to get the sound for the scene. We kicked them out very quickly. We were told that the scene was too racy for Network television…I don't blame them.

    ew.

  11. my roomate, a total non-food industry person, offered this when i asked him about desserts in restaurants:

    "I'm usually full. I mean, i like dessert, don't get me wrong. But it's so rare i go to a restaurant where the dessert isn't just something thawed out by the fucking waiter."

    supports most of what you've all said.

  12. Am I the only person who has done/gathered absolutely nothing? Which is in no way to say that preparation is a trivial and/or bad thing.  If I had dependents, I would have something.  Kind of like life insurance.

    Nope. I haven't lifted a finger yet, either.

    ditto. I'm counting on the Midwest to save me.

  13. A couple of years back i wrote a piece on retrocrush.com about a time 20 years ago when i - through an odd juxtaposition of events - had dinner at a restaurant with Andy Kaufman. It was after one of his wrestling shows and during that time period when he was obliged to wear a neckbrace due to having been "suplexed" by Jerry "The King" Lawler.

    At 11 PM on a weeknight in 1983, he wanted upscale vegetarian food. There was only one restaurant we could think of that would offer something suitable at that time of night. He made an ass of himself and embarassed all of us by ranting at the servers and raving at anyone that recognized him: "I am trying to eat dinner, here!"

    Other fun stuff happened, too, but not at the restaurant. Yikes.

  14. Anyone who goes on televsion should KNOW--as an absolute truth--that sooner or later, we ALL of us--will find ourselves, making that final,  inevitable Winkler-esque approach to the shark-tank. There is rarely a Pinky Toscadero waiting on the other side. One must ask oneself, " Once the beast has been jumped--what will be left?"

    Lock this thread now, please - I don't wanna have to search through it for this passage again.

    Beautiful, just beautiful. Thanks, Chef.

×
×
  • Create New...