cabrales

Steven -- When you have a chance, could you consider describing why you consider this thread to represent the board "at its best"?

For Relais Gourmand's recent 30th anniversary celebration in Paris, Michel Troisgros offered, among other things: Faux-filet de bœuf poché aux cèpes séchés et vermicelles chinois (Poached faux-filet of beef with dried porcinis and Chinese vermicelli): http://www.saveurs.sympatico.ca/relais/men...enu/viandes.htm (menu relating to meats for the dinner) Although the name of the dish does not include a reference to "ficelle" (string), the associated recipe does: http://www.saveurs.sympatico.ca/relais/pro.../charolais3.htm -- Part of Step 2 -- "Frotter le morceau de viande sur toutes les faces avec du gros sel et du poivre fraîchement moulu. Le **ficeler** comme un rôti, en gardant à une extrémité une longueur de **ficelle** suffisante pour l'attacher à une poignée de la marmite." -- Part of Step 4 -- "retirer le morceau de viande à l'aide **de la ficelle**, puis le laisser reposer à température ambiante" An almost identical dish is described in Michael Buller's "French Chefs Cooking" (1999). The ingredients for Filet of Beef on a String, with Mushrooms and Chinese Vermicelli (Filet de Boeuf a la Ficelle aux cepes seches et Vermicelles Chinoises) include: dried mushrooms, mountain spring water ("such as Evian"), consomee, beef filet, coarse seat salt and pepper to taste, peeled and blanched celeriac, short vermicelli and strong Dijon-style mustard. Buller notes that the recipe resulted from a collaboration between Pierre and his son Michel Troisgros, after the passing of Jean.

In "Villas At Table", James Villas devotes a chapter to boiled beef. Excerpts follow: "When prepared and served properly, boiled beef is one of the most succulent dishes ever conceived by man. . . .Over the centuries, virtually every nation in the world has come to boast one style or another of boiled beef (Danish 'sprengt oksebryst', Czechoslovakian 'houezi maso', Romanian 'cacuta', Italian 'bollito misto', Russian 'otvarnaia govyadina', Spanish and Mexican 'cocido', German 'Rindfleisch', Argentine 'puchero', Chinese aromatic boiled beef, Irish corned beef and cabbage), but surely no one has loved and respected the dish more than the English, the Austrians and the French. . . . In his delightful book 'Blue Trout and Truffles' [Note the name of the book actually refers to "Black" "Truffles"], the late Joseph Wechsberg devoted an entire chapter to the celebrated boiled beef of Vienna . . . . " Villas proceeded to describe how boiled beef could be enjoyed at home, and concluded with a pargraph on his most memorable sampling of boiled beef: "the 'boeuf a la ficelle' I used to order on the much-lamented S.S. France. . . .Out from the galley it came, this unadorned, slightly undercooked whole tenderloin still in its bouillon . . . . The aromas were intoxicating. After the fillet was sliced and the juicy pink slabs were arranged across the center of large heated dinner plates, the waiter untied the steaming vegetables and distributed them artistically around the rosy, mouth-watering beef. The captain supplied the tables with ramekins of coarse salt, hot mustard and French cornichons; added a few grinds of fresh pepper to the meat; . . . This is boiled beef in all its unpretentious and natural glory . . . ."

I had drinks at Flute on 54th recently. The bar is in a basement with an entrance from the street, within steps of Broadway and reasonably close to Times Square. The facility is very dark; the seating arrangements comfortable. I sampled the "Magic Flute" -- three small 2.5 oz glasses: Paul Georg Blanc de Blancs, Laurent-Perrier Brut and Piper-Heidsieck Rose ($16 total; no choice available in sampler). The Piper-Heidsieck Rose was stark. There were some small snacks, which I did not sample. I also resisted La Maison du Chocolat's individual chocolates ($2.50 each) available at the facility. The per glass selection of champagne included Gosset Grand Reserve ($20), "R" de Ruinart (14) and Taittinger 1996. The selection was not as strong as I, for some reason, had subjectively imagined.

Malawry -- Are chefs' pants comfortable, and how do they differ from "regular" women's pants?

For members who joined subsequent to the applicable period, Pacaud's langoustines wth curry dish and Gopnik's discussion of it in "Paris to the Moon" were discussed in various threads on the board, including: "French and American Menus" under "France" http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...,and,curry&st=0 "Has the light dimmed on French cooking?" under "General" http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...&hl=pacaud&st=0 "Fusion Food -- Profoundly dishonest? Discuss" under "India" http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...=5822&hl=pacaud "Indian Spices in Michelin 3* Kitchens" under "India" http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?ac...2f057d769e026c5

stephen -- I'll type it in by Monday afternoon at the latest.

Cherries, including Rainier cherres. Below is a thread on the utilization of cherries in non-dessert dishes: http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?ac...2f057d769e026c5 nyfirepatrolchef's question at the end of the linked thread is a good one -- what are the ideal storage conditions for cherries?

jordyn -- That is indeed fortunate for you. Did your knowledge of fugu's poisonous nature appeal to you intellectually while you were sampling the item?

Below is a summary of a 4Q 2001 meal at L'Ambroisie: 1/2 Feuillette de truffes noires au foie gras [not official name -- this was a special not on the menu, but described by Mde Pacaud] (A pastry of black truffles with foie gras) 1/2 Feuillantine de langoustines aux graines de sesame, sauce au curry (Langoustines with grains of sesame, curry sauce) 1/2 Poularde Bresse Demi-Deuil (Chicken in half-mourning) 1/2 Carre d'agneau de Lozere en croute de noix, poelee d'artichauts (Lamb from Lozere in a walnut crust, accompanying artichokes) 1/2 Charlotte aux pommes a l'Ancienne, sabayon aux noix (Apple dessert, with walnut sabayon) 1/2 Clementine glace, beignets chocolatee (Clementine ice cream with chocolate donut-like items) Puligny Montrachet, Jadot 1985 (good deal at 690 FF) Corton Clos de Corton (1/2 bottle) A dining companion and I swapped plates for each course. Large slices of truffle and foie gras filled the interior cavity of a puff pastry shell in one of the appetizers. It was good. The other appetizer was the famed langoustines with sesame and curry. While the flesh of the langoustine was well-prepared, I did not find this dish particularly impressive. The sesame is concentrated on a thin wafer-like item. The chicken in half-mourning dish had a cream-based sauce, in contrast to the version of the dish served at its origination point at La Mere Brazier in Lyons. The chicken was smooth and appropriate, and had one or two slices of truffles lodged underneath its skin. It had a country feel to it. I have described this dish somewhere on the board. The desserts were disappointing. The clementine ice cream tasted like Haagen Daz's orange flavor. Overall, a good-plus meal.

jordyn -- When you have a chance, could you discuss whether "baby back halibut ribs" steamed in kelp are on the menu at Fresh? I like the "tongue in cheek" nature of some of the dish at this place already. Also, what information did the restaurant provide regarding the fugu and what assurances (if any) were available that the fish served would not be poisonous? For example, where did the fugu comes from and what experience does the chef have preparing it? Did the fugu sting your tongue a bit? I have never sampled fugu, and will visit the restaurant when I have a chance.

Only when I pay an extravagant compliment. John -- Thank you for the compliment :blush:

Malawry -- A corollary question is what materials are "inaccessible" to a newspaper's readership. Does inaccessible mean, for example, description of restaurants and dishes that a reader woud never have a chance to sample (in which case there may be a counterargument that a vicarious experience is nonetheless meaningful and potentially interesting to readers)?

Michael Anthony, formerly sous-chef at March, won the First Annual Bertolli Sous Chef Awards. As reported by the spring issue of Art Culinaire . . . One of Anthony's creations photographed was the Smoked Salmon Belly with Avocado-Yogurt Puree an Pickled Watermelon. Note the utilization of pickled eggplant in the dish described by Food & Wine. I wonder what other uses pickling has at BH. Dan & Mike -- If you find pickling interesting, could you consider discussing the role of pickled vegetables and pickled fruits in your cuisine? Are certain of your pickling processes different from what one might expect?

jaybee and, I think, John -- Thanks :blush:

Dan & Mike -- Blue Hill's website suggests that some of the produce utilized by your restaurant may be sourced from Blue Hill Farm. I'd appreciate hearing your thoughts on the quality of such produce relative to that you could purchase, and learning who tends to the crops at the farm. Are heirloom, "forgotten" or other unusual varieties of vegetables or fruit nurtured there?

PaulaJ -- You guessed my question. Based on my only two meals at Crayeres to date, the desserts are not as strong as the rest of the meal. That's not a negative statement, but a comparison of the relative appeal of different parts of the meal. I wonder whether the problem with the elevator might have produced some limitations on the range of desserts that might be available. There were only two patissiers the day I toured the kitchen. Do you know how many there are normally (given that one is so distracted by the physical movement of the dessert), and who the chef patissier is? What did you think of the sommeliers and who is the lead sommelier? I liked the wine service team when I visited. Was the restaurant's name in a medium blue stitching, and yours in red below? Finally, what sort of information was requested on the application form that you filled out? Was there an indication that culinary skills are required?

I'd appreciate input from US-based eGulleteers as to what US cell phone companies they utilize and whether their phones operate well, to the extent they are GSM-compatible, in France. An indication as to the reasonableness of roaming charges, if available, would be appreciated.

pirate -- You received the two glasses of wine you described for 16 euros total? That's wonderful; I am sold on sampling the restaurant on my next visit to Paris. If you recollect, did Lassere have a reasonably priced lunch? Does Guy Savoy have a less expensive lunch menu? For me, it's easy to go from not well dressed to adequately-dressed. When I am bustling about the city, in the summer I might wear a black fitted T-shirt, cotton pants and a pair of flats. I would carry a pair of black mules and a "stretch", wrinkle-free skirt in a large-ish, but nice looking, handbag. I change before going to the restaurant in a bistro's washroom.

Malawry -- With all that clothing on, do you feel hot (particularly when you are near the stove)?

Here is a very rough translation (due to time constraints) of a small portion of the the Relais Gourmand menu: . . . Installment #2 of the translation of the Relais Gourmand anniversary menu is below: III. VEGETABLES -- L'accumulation de pommes de terre rattes "Arman" aux huîtres de Belon (Aggregation of "ratte" potatoes, Arman style -- named after a sculptor whose works appear in Rostang's restaurant, with Belon oysters), Michel Rostang, Paris -- Étoilée de tomates confites à la fleur de thym (Tomato confit with thyme flowers), Alain Deluc, Restaurant Barbizon, Belgium -- Petits poivrons farcis à la morue (Small peppers stuffed with cod), Firmin Arrambide, Les Pyrénées, St Jean Pied de Port -- Sandwich aux truffes (Truffle sandwich), Rostang -- Mollusques et coquillages en salade multicolore à plat aux trois coulis de poivrons au camembert (Various clam and relatives in a multi-colored salad with three coulis of peppers and camembert), Gérard Passédat, Le Petit Nice, Nice -- Salade d'asperges au foie de canard poêlé (Salad of asparagus with pan-fried duck foie gras), Antoine Westermann, Buerehiesel, Strasbourg -- La salade de tous les légumes du moment, huile d'olive et bouquet d'herbes (Salad with in-season vegetables, olive oil and a bouquet of herbs, Jacques et Laurent Pourcel, Jardin des Sens, Montpellier -- Salade tiède de Pommes "Rattes" aux Truffes de Richeranches (Warm salad of "ratte" potatoes with truffles from Richeranches in Southern France), Jean-Paul Lacombe, Léon de Lyon, Lyons IV. HORS D'OEUVRE -- Escalope de foie gras de canard sautée au vin et aux raisins muscats (Duck foie gras sauteed with wine and muscat grapes), Stéphane Raimbault, L'Oasis, La Napoule -- Foie gras de canard chaud en verdure de blettes (Duck foie gras, hot preparation, with ? of swiss chard), Raimbault -- Foie gras poché au consommé (Foie gras poached in consomme), Gilles Etéocle, Hostellerie La Poularde, Montrond Les Bains -- Marbré de foie d'oie et de canard aux épices douces (Duck and goose foie gras with gentle spices), Christian Denis, Clos Saint-Denis, Belgium -- Ravioles de Foie gras au jus de porto et truffes (Raviolis of foie gras with a jus of port and truffles), Pierre Orsi, Restaurant Pierre Orsi, Lyon

Malawry -- Do female cooking school students generally tie their hair up in a ponytail (as applicable) and avoid having nail polish?

Your quote contains the assumption the reviewer can taste the cuisine sufficiently. Is that consistent with your views with respect to most professional US reviewers? How can they taste well if, as discussed under certain threads in the Food Media and News forum, many US food writers may not have had significant restaurant going experience (including within the US)?

For the two meals I have taken at Boyer, Boyer was talking with guests a great deal when the latter were taking their aperatifs in the outdoor area facing the expanse of back lawn at Les Crayeres. Also, he toured the dining room for much of the service, sometimes chatting more than 3-5 minutes with each table. It appeared to me that, on those occasions at least (note I began each meal relatively late), Boyer couldn't have been cooking that much and it was likely T Voisin (sic) that was overseeing the service. Do members have input on Boyer's touring of tables during service? If Boyer tours as much as I think he does, PaulaJ's interactions with him might be even more limited. ??? PaulaJ -- Was Boyer outside of the kitchen, but at Crayeres, touring the tables and talking up the guests, or was it just not in Rheims? I vaguely remember the possibility of an elevator inside the kitchen, leading downwards. Is that correct, and, if so, where does the elevator lead (e.g., to pastry)? Also, did you receive a souvenir set of chef's whites, an apron, a certificate or some other item from the restaurant?

I contacted Waterside Inn recently -- no proposed list of dishes is yet available for the Menu of Reflection. For members who might visit the restaurant for lunch, note that the Menu Exceptionel is available during lunch and by inference the Menu of Reflection should be available during lunch as well (although it would not be as good a deal was the WI lunch prix fixes).