cabrales

According to the James Beard August 2002 Calendar & Newsletter, Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali "are taking a chance on the beautiful (and possibly cursed) lower Fifth Avenue space that recently held Clementine. The pair, who also owns Babbo and Esca, plan on opening an as-yet-unnamed pizzeria and wine bar this fall."

In the James Beard August 2002 Calendar & Newsletter, there is the following retraction regarding the prior reporting on Beck's departure: "The heat must be getting to our heads -- Peter Beck has not left Tamarind, as we mistakenly reported in last month's New York City Dateline column. He continues to make some of the city's best Indian food at Tamarind with Durga Prasad . . . . [who] runs the tandori end of things. We apologize for the error."

Jay -- Note the title of the article -- "*Top* five restaurants for elegance". The title is followed by the caption: "Because you're worth it... the *most* refined places around the globe, from Mexico to Paris."

Wilfrid -- Yes, subjectively, based on three (lunch only) visits to Capital and more visits to LTC. However, I think that might reflect more on fit between a restaurant and a diner. http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...hl=capital&st=0

Gavin J -- I'm happy to provide the link

Gavin J -- While I don't know about the calibration of my views relative to shared norms, below is a description of a meal in 1Q 2002 at La Tante Claire: http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...la+tante+claire Despite the thread initiated regarding why Koffmann has not regained his third star, I do not believe that his current two-star status is necessarily inappropriate. LTC is the strongest UK two-star in my mind, and it would not be inappropriate to elevate it to three-star status. However, for me, it would be a "marginal" case that could be studied over time.

Gavin -- I agree with BLH. In particular, Putney Bridge might be interesting, although I have not eaten there in a while and the prices there are not necessarily low.

Dan & Mike -- On non-white Copper River salmon, could you discuss why you might prefer sockeye over king (or vice versa)? One Iron Chef episode addressed "juvenile" salmon specific to Hokkaido, Japan. In view of your utilization of baby beef, have you considered using "younger" fish or flesh from "younger" animals? http://www.ironchef.com/98/98_e33.shtml

Mike -- What might a staff meal consist of?

Mike -- On the cured salmon, was it included in the shotglass diced or in larger individual chunks? Could you provide thoughts on the extent (if any) to which the individual size of the salmon pieces might affect (1) the ease with which diners could discern the citrus curing, and (2) the textural interest against the backdrop of the artichoke puree and lemoncello foam (could you describe lemoncello a bit as well)? Also, did the citrus-cured salmon recipe come before or after the Smoked Salmon Belly with Avocado-Yogurt Puree and Pickled Watermelon dish (with lemon-based glaze) described in Art Culinaire?

-- I liked the testa disc, and wondered what portions of pigs' head had been utilized in it apart from the cheeks. Little integrated "pockets" within the offered slice that had a predominantly fatty, but also slightly gelatinous, texture were helpful to the disc. . . . It was described that there was *pickled fennel (??)* accompanying the testa, but this taste was too subtle to be sampled. Mike -- Is the taste of pickled fennel supposed to be relatively subtle? As you know, the role of acidity, in which you indicated in another thread you are interested, in the pickling process and the finished product is somewhat intriguing. In the "books to watch for..." thread under "Food Media and News"::

The August 2002 edition of James Beard's Calendar & Newsletter describes the menu for the "Joe's Reunion Dinner" Special Event involving Dan Barber of BH and Joe Miller of Joe's Restaurant (Venice, CA) on August 6: Amuses: Shots of Corn Soup; Eggplant and Tomato Parfait; Texas white shrimp with crabmeat and fresh wasabi; Green Zebra Tomato with Rice Vinegar Flaze and Sesame Brittle; Lemon Cucumber and Dill Martinis Hamachi with Tomatillo Marmalade and Green Gazpacho Vinaigrette, with Martin Codax-Albarino 2001 (my guess is that this is more from Dan than from Joe Miller??) Beet Risotto with Grilled Asparagus and Asiago Cheese, Martin Codax-Albarino 2001 Poached Lobster Salad with Smoked Brandywine Tomato Puree, Domaine de Piaugier Sablet Blanc 1999 (my guess is that this is more from Dan than from Joe Miller??) Kobe Rib-Eye with Saffron and Lemon-Braised Endive and Lipstick Pepper Jus, Lewis Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 Amreck Blue Cheese with Cabernet Grapes Local Apricot Crumble with Apricot Pit Ice Cream and Fromage Blanc Sorbet, El Grifo Malvasia Dulce 2001 Excerpts from the James Beard description of Dan follow: "Dan Barber, co-chef at Blue Hill, who worked at Joe's Restaurant some ten years ago. Like Miller, Barber is a fan of fresh, seasonal food. Or as Gourmet's Jonathan Gold put it, 'Here, the ingredients taste of themselves, exposed as if on a stage.' But make no mistake; there are startling jolts of flavor lurking in Barber's simplicity. As William Grimes of The New York Times wrote, 'Blue Hill lulls you into expecting the usual. And then it pounces.'"

Mike -- I find the cannibalistic connotations of Blue Hill's serving of a rabbit dish amusing too Also, I see the lower-key nature, but liveliness connotations, of the rabbit logo appropriate for the restaurant. To the extent you know, what were the origins of the logo? For members' convenience, the rabbit dish to which Mike refers is Stuffed Rabbit Loin with Vidalia Onion and Watercress Puree. The rabbit surrounds tomato confit made from plum tomatoes, olive oil, rosemary and salt and pepper to taste. Braised lettuce accompanies the dish -- the lettuce component contains Romaine heart, rabbit jus, Swiss chard, thyme, garlic, yellow onion, canola oil, and salt and pepper to taste. The Vidalia onion wedges contain sugar and unsalted butter. Also included are baby turnips cooked with sugar, salt and unsalted butter. On outstanding egg dishes:

Dan -- What is the greatest number of dishes you have made for a diner as part of the chef's tasting menu?

Dan -- If you are comfortable responding, how compulsive are you with respect to, say, (1) seeking consistency of execution in the dishes presented to diners, (2) arriving at a recipe satisfactory to you after coming up with a germ of an idea for a new dish, and (3) desiring feedback from diners? (As you might suspect based on the frequency of follow-up questions in this Q&A, I have certain compulsive tendencies as well )

Dan -- On heirloom vegetables (whether purchased or grown at the farm), what vegetables or fruits, except for tomatoes, do you use heirloom varieties of with reasonable frequency at Blue Hill? Do you experiment with less known herbs at the farm?

Dan & Mike -- Is your list presented in order, with the restaurant of greatest inspirational value to you listed first?

In the July 14, 2002 edition of The Observer, Michael Paterniti sets forth thoughts on El Bulli: http://www.observer.co.uk/foodmonthly/stor...,753619,00.html

In The Observer earlier this month, Petrus was named to be one of the five most elegant restaurants in the world? The most elegant restaurant in the world is described to be located in the Yucatan, Mexico? http://www.observer.co.uk/foodmonthly/stor...,753629,00.html The article is a bit difficult to interpret, with respect to its contributors. After each included restaurant, there is a name (Jay Rayner in the case of Petrus). It was unclear whether that was merely the person providing an earlier review of the restaurant (?), or the person who nominated the restaurant for inclusion (?).

Malawry -- A number of members have commended you for your writing, as well as the substance of your diary. Noting that you were engaged in a publishing-related activity prior to attending cooking school, I wondered whether you might be comfortable discussing your writing experience. In addition, when you submit recipes for review by instructors, does your writing style affect, to some extent, the way your recipes read or is there an attempt at a "dry", less personable style for such purpose?

I was browing the Ecole des Chefs website, and noticed that, when you click on the little hat in one of the columns listing the chefs, a few have "statements" about their view of the program. Most (like Boyer) don't. http://saveurs.sympatico.ca/ecolechefs/Che...lish/france.htm For example, see Troisgros' helpful statement: http://saveurs.sympatico.ca/ecolechefs/fra...h/troisgros.htm Other chefs describe their respective styles of cuisine: http://saveurs.sympatico.ca/ecolechefs/fra...ish/chibois.htm http://saveurs.sympatico.ca/ecolechefs/fra.../westermann.htm http://saveurs.sympatico.ca/ecolechefs/fra...ish/loiseau.htm

I'd appreciate members' views on the extent to which a maitre d' role is to make every diner feel "special" in the restaurant (i.e., to make the diner perceive he is getting at least sufficient attention from the maitre d', if not special goodies).

Wilfrid -- When you have a chance, could you discuss the taste of thistle and wild thistle? Yvonne -- If you see this post, is there a reason that you might be fond of thistle as well?

Steve P -- Have you pursued subjects other than food and wine in the manner described (e.g., work-related matters)?

jordyn -- Did you purchase your cell phone from Voicestream? I need the SIM unlocking to be done earlier, and a "hack" vendor has V66s that is already unlocked. I have my trepidations about purchasing from anything other than a Voicestream store, and will investigate this weekend. Also, any thoughts on the v66 versus the v60?