cabrales

I've eaten candied rose petals in restaurants. I believe they might even be served with the petit fours (but in a separate container) at Alain Chapel, at least in recent years. (Note the above is from memory, and not notes)

The Petrus or the Mouton, although I am not at the stage in my wine knowledge where I would be able to appreciate either bottle. I have sampled only one of those bottles, the Latour 1990.

For dinner last night, I made marinated cherry tomatoes. The intrinsic flesh of the tomatoes was fairly sweet. I decided to foresake the rosemary route, and fashioned a marinade from olive oil (purchased with an infusion of Sicilian organic lemons), lemon zest, lemon juice, dried, finely ground coriander (leaves), chives and a pinch of black pepper. I cut the tomatoes, which were small even for cherry varieties, into two and the jus from the fruit ran into the marinade. I let this sit for a while, before serving the tomatoes to myself with an aged balsamic on the side (unnecessary in hindsight). The outcome was acceptable.

jordyn -- I imagine it would be a delicate issue as it might distract other customers. That being said, my photography is about as unobstructive as it could get. I have albums full of wonderful photos as a result. On balance, for me, whether to photograph is not at all a close call. I merely note it is an activity that is not helpful to other diners, even in the absence of the use of flash, etc.

I have some experience taking pictures in restaurants in France. I have a small camera which fits into my clutch handbag. It is not a digital (which would be better, as one can adjust for lighting, etc.). I load it up with 400 speed or greater film (beware of very high speeds, as they can be affected by airport scanners). It does not make much noise. When the amuse arrives, I usually ask the person bringing it (who is unlikely to be the maitre d', but some chef de rang or commis) whether it would be appropriate to take pictures without flash. Usually, the response is in the affirmative. I very quickly disable the flash, and snap one or two shots of the dish. This is repeated for every dish (without the request, of course). At some point, snap quickly the room. Note that, for three-stars outside of Paris, there is usually a hotel. One can snap a number of pictures not only of the restaurant, but also of the grounds, the hotel common areas, the exterior of the restaurant, rooms, etc. Photography is a delicate issue, and I presume restaurants would prefer not to have it happen.

I always ask for menus, and receive them, in France. Apart Tour d'Argent in Paris, all restaurants did not resist after a second request (when necessary). Most were happy to provide the menu upon an initial gentle request. Tour d'Argent sells old menus in the store across the street from the restaurant. It's hard to tell whether every diner would be accorded similar treatment. Note I tend to receive complimentary dishes, etc. at restaurants frequented for the first time, and speak French. I'm not suggesting those factors matter, but merely providing background. Also note I tip generously, even given the general inclusion of service in listed prices. At Taillevent, I received an old menu. Gagnaire personnel initially only provided the menu degustation menu, but, upon a follow-up request, provided the a la carte menu. I even have a copy of the spiral-bound Jardin des Sens menu (unclear whether staying as a hotel guest helped). Ledoyen personnel were a bit reluctant, and initially gave me an old menu without alerting me to that fact. I noticed the difference, and indicated it would mean a great deal to me to receive the menu I experienced. With some reluctance, the restaurant handed the menu over. Some places have a tendency to give indicative menus, like Loiseau, that are not even old menus. Still, these are better than having no menu at all. One of the nicest gestures by restaurants is when they given you not only the regular menu when requested, but also understand your desire to have that regular menu suggests you would appreciate a typed up list (in addition) of the dishes and wines taken in. Troisgros provided this on my first visit to the restaurant. A request for the regular menu yielded three menus --- the regular menu, the truffle tasting menu's contents and a cardboard smaller menu with an insert regarding my specific menu that evening. The restaurant/hotel at Troisgros is very well-run. When I visited the next time, sitting on my bed was a welcome card (there is a welcome card even with the first stay) indicating my return was welcome. I do not believe that asking for a menu, even if the request were for some reason to be denied, would affect reservation prospects. I began menu collecting about 2 years ago. Menus can be truly beautiful, apart from being souvenirs with respect to dishes.

More on the Balut in response to other members' posts, pending Wilfrid's write-up. Apologies for inaccurate "biological" descriptions. The duck eggs were cooked; their shells had a little stamp from the restaurant that appeared to indicate "Treat". First, on the contents of my egg (the less challenging one, fortunately). When the shell is removed, all I could see was a yellowish, yolk-like exterior in the rough shape of an egg. There did not appear to be a separate white portion. Along the exterior of the yellowish mass were marked purple veins, and veins of other colors. I did not know why I thought the egg had reptilian connotations. When the egg was cut, one saw the same yellowish mass occupying about 1/2 of the space, with the remaining 1/2 of the space taken up by duck meat that was embedded in the yellowish mass. My specimen did not have a beak, nor a noticeable head. Wilfrid's Beloved fed me small pieces of the integrated yellowish mass/duck portions while I initially had my eyes closed. The taste of the half of my egg I was able to take in (Wilfrid vollunteered to take in the remainder of it), with significant gulps of Puligny Montrachet, was very rich and interesting. The duck and egg were somewhat integrated, with quite an intense duck flavor (this was augmented by the addition to the egg contents of a bit of the saucing from the Pork Adobo, which included vinegar and soya sauce). More intense duck flavoring than most duck dishes (including those involving Barbary duck) I have taken in. As Wilfrid put it, almost like a duck pate. Fortunately, my specimen did not involve a to-be-duckling that had yet developed feathers; however, I could discern a membrane-like substance that might have represented the "boundaries" of the to-be-duckling (??). I liked the taste of the item. It was the appearance and knowledge of what the item represented that made its ingestion very challenging. As luck would have it (from my perspective), Wilfrid received what, from rapid glances, was the noticeably more challenging specimen. I believe, although I was not looking at his duck egg meaningfully, that the removal of the shell exposed certain miniature darkish-colored, bird-like features. It might have even been the head of the to-be-duckling (??). Wilfrid noted the item had certain feathers, which he appeared to have taken in with the rest of the egg. I leave a description of the taste to his specimen to him.

I have not followed recent editions of Restaurant Magazine. I'd appreciate members' views on how the publication is faring, particularly with respect to the quality of included articles.

Here's some additional information on cheese: http://www.library.unr.edu/friends/tours/a...ce/fromage.html ("Roger Alleosse, 13 rue Poncelet (17th arrondissement): Patricia Wells says this is the best cheese shop in Paris – a wide selection of cheeses from France, Italy, Greece and the Netherlands, 'a mini cheese university.' The Alleosse family has seven cellars under their store where they pamper their cheeses to perfection . . . . Barthelemy, 51 rue de Grenelle (7th arr.): Wells calls owner Roland Barthelemy "king of Fontainebleau, Camembert and Brie. Everyone from French presidents to actress Catherine Deneuve shop here, especially for Barthelemy’s specialties he created. (i.e., Boulamour, fresh cream cheese enriched with crème fraiche, currants, raisins and Kirsch, and a Camembert laced with Calvados.)") The indicative schedule for one of Patricia Wells' overpriced Paris classes includes various Alleosse references: http://www.patriciawells.com/cooking/sampl...ris_classes.PDF See also: http://www.chron.com/cs/CDA/story.hts/food.../archive/648227 (describes Barthelemy's and Cantin, which also seems to be cited with some frequency) Note I have not visited any of the above fromageries. For Wimpy, I would imagine there would be a question about the *incremental* advantage of visiting one of the "top" Paris cheese stores versus a store that is closer to some of the non-cheese vendors from whom he would be making purchases.

Wimpy -- On cheese, Steve P previously advised me to visit Bernard Anthony's store. I have not yet done so. I do not have the address for this fromagerie. Consider sampling patisseries and chocolates from Pierre Herme while in Paris: http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...hl=pierre+herme (Note the Kurova restaurant in the 8th arrondisement/district -- the one that includes much of the Champs-Elysees -- carries Herme patisseries, and, sometimes, very limited chocolate selections. )

Jon & horton -- In The Observer's recent article on "Top Five Restaurants for Elegance", Fiona Beckett noted that "[p]lans for his [Gagnaire's] new London restaurant, Sketch, *due to open next month*, include dim sum-style trolleys where food will be served 'at different degrees of cold'" http://www.observer.co.uk/foodmonthly/stor...,753629,00.html

I recently sampled 'Ino's Truffled Egg Toast, to which Wilfrid and Suvir had referred in the "Pressed Sandwiches" thread under "Cooking" (unlinked): I enjoyed the Truffled Egg Toast ($7) The toast was nicely thick -- perhaps more than 2 cm. It was square-shaped, perhaps very roughly10 cm along each side. The slight crunchiness of the toast highlighted the runny yolk lodged in a little indented well on the top side of the toast. White truffle oil enhanced the welcoming yolk. The top of the toast (including below the yolk) had melted fontina cheese -- yummy. The green asparagus was cut into small sections, and surrounded the toast on the plate. Also sampled were: 1/4 Panini -- Proscuitto, bel paese and sweet onion ($2.50) 1/4 Panini -- Chicken, oven roasted tomato, asiago and rucola ($2.50) Chardonnay Alto Adige, Elena Walch ($9/glass) Predominant Portion of 'Ino's Menu -- OTHER PANINI (cibatta bread, pressed), all $8 Three cheese -- crotonese, cacio, grana and truffle oil Sweet coppa, hot peppers and rucola Portobello, grana and sun dried tomato pesto Mozarella, basil pesto and pepperonata Caccaitorini, goat cheese and black olive pesto Roasted vegetables and goat cheese Prscuitto, mozarella and tomato Soppressata, fontina and rucola Rucola, sundried tomato pesto, red onion and fontina Artichoke, fennel and fontina Bresaola, asparagus and pecorino peppato Note that a panini with four parts, each with a different selection from the above list, is available for $10. It is called the "Quattro panini". I asked for 1/2 of the Quattro, meaning two selections, each being 1/4 of a "regular" panini in size. -- TRAMEZZI (white bread, served "cold"), all $6 Egg salad with asparagus Tuna with black olive pesto Bresaola with rucola and grana Mozarella, oven-roasted tomatoes, rucola and lemon mayonnaise Pancetta, oven-roasted tomatoes, pecorino Mortadela, red pepper & pecorino Chicken salad with garlic and watercress Cacciatorini, red onion and tomato -- BRUSCHETTA, all $2 Caponata and goat cheese Basil pesto Pepperonata and crotonese Asapragus, truffle oil and paramesan Sweet onion and cacio Roasted garlic and rucola oil Ricotta fresca and oven-roasted tomatoes Taleggio and sun-dried tomato pesto Braised fennel with tapenade Summer tomato and basil -- Certain snacks - cheese, cured meats, olives, etc. -- DOLCE Nutella panino ($5) Bruscetta with fresh fruit and mascarpone (5) Seasonal fruit with balsamic and black pepper (5) Biscotti plate (4)

Wilfrid, his family and I had lunch at the Filipino restaurant Elvie's Turo-Turo today. Our target were unborn duck embryo Jaymes -- I have not sampled Belut. Nor did I even know the name of the dish. However, I have been unsuccessfully following up on a duck-egg-based dish that I had thought (incorrectly perhaps) was Vietnamese. Does the dish described below resemble Belut? . . . Wilfrid -- I would definitely go. I assume the facility is in or around NYC? I thought you might. Elvie's Turo Turo, down on First. It's a mere step from La Foccacceria, where the pig spleen butties are on offer, so you might think of a combined trip. I am prepared to offer you moral support, although I must say the balut has never tempted me strongly. Elvie's is a clean, simple place. The food can be visually inspected behind a glass partition. There are specials dependent on the day of the week. For one selection with a generous heaping of rice, the price is $4.00; with two selections (counting soup and stews), the price is only $6.95 per platter. The three adults and one small child in our dining party shared two orders of the two-selection platter. Sampled were the following: Pork Adobo -- marinated in soy, vinegar and garlic Pork in Beef Blood Oxtail with Peanut Sauce and Ocre, served with a shrimp paste-based sauce on the side Noodles with Chicken Side of Longanisa -- sweet pork sausage ($1) Pritong Isda -- fried butterfish ($1) * BALUT * Puligny Montrachet, Carillon 1998 I defer to Wilfrid on the description of the above dishes. Note that I was very "chicken" on the Balut, and almost did not take it in Wilfrid peeled off the shell of his egg, and chomped down its unusual-looking contents. I could not readily bring myself to touch the egg to remove the shell, and was able to accomplish that step with a fork and knife. However, the sight of the purple and other colored veins along the egg left me feeling depleted of confidence in taking the egg in. Fortunately, my egg, unlike Wilfrid's, was not developed to the point where the removal of the shell exposed part of the embryo The rest of the story, Wilfrid can advise on.... Note I did, however, take some of the Balut in, with *significant* assistance from Wilfrid's Beloved. Information: 214 First Avenue (between 12th and 13th St.); 212-473-7785; cash only. BYO is possible without corkage. However, the restaurant has not corkscrew. If members do not bring their own corksccrew along, the bar-like restaurant across the street can provide assistance.

Mao -- The Moira Hodgson review provides some information on the butter/cream question. "Mr. Barber uses virtually no butter or cream, but you'd never guess it. Crabmeat lasagne is made with two delicate pieces of pasta dough filled with chunks of tarragon-laced peekytoe crab and served with a sauce made with mussel juice thickened with spinach puree and grain mustard. The sauce is unctuous and creamy, but there's no cream at all. Nor is there cream in the silken sauce that accompanies rosy slices of pork (a rare Berkshire black pig raised in the Hudson Valley); instead it's thicked with a rich pork jus infused with a horseradish vinaigrette."

Below is an excerpt from the Blue Hill Q&A: -- Sandra Levine: If I come to Blue Hill in the next few weeks, what is the one dish I should not fail to order? -- Mike Anthony: We buy most of our tomatoes from a farmer located in Pennsylvannia, named Tim Stark. His tomatoes are exploding with flavor this week and will continue through the month of August and, hopefully, into September. So I would say you can't miss the dish entitled " Tomatoes!" It consists of raw heirloom tomatoes marinated in tomato water, orange juice, with garlic oil and sherry vinegar as well as oven dried plum tomatoes, watermelon-tomato vinaigrette, pickled green tomatoes, upland cress and tomato-mint sorbet. Wilfrid alerted me to the inclusion in today's edition of The New York Observer of Moira Hodgson's review of Blue Hill. She accorded the restaurant three stars ("Excellent"), indicating it "is one of those restaurants that hit the right note from the get-go. And with its constantly changing menu, the excitement never lets up." One of the dishes described is the tomato combination. "[A]s I sat over a plate of heirloom tomatoes in a watermelon vinaigrette, topped with tomato sorbet that zapped them like a cold shower on a hot August afternoon, I felt as though I were in the country restaurant where the chef had just brought overr the best of the crop from his own garden." The Hodgson piece describes the slow-cooking of fish: "Mr. Barber has perfected a method, now used by quite a few chefs, of cooking meat or fish over very, very low heat instead of searing it. The braised cod is done in olive oil and duck fat over no flame at all, cooking itself just from the heat of the kitchen and the pilot light. This way, he says, the fish doesn't seize up, but stays relaxed while cooking through. He uses a similar technique with the salmon with baby artichokes and favas. And he even poaches shrimp in olive oil -- they are juicy and sweet, and they come with a marinated avocado and lemon fennel dressing." The Hodgson write-up also discusses certain low-temperature cooking at Blue Hill in the context of duck: "The poached duck breasts is amazing. The breast is skinned and braised at a very low temperature (around 110 degrees) in beurre blanc with cream. But Mr. Barber drains off all the cream and serves the breast -- which is melting, buttery and rare -- with the leg which is done as a traditional confit: with a crisp skin. The duck comes with a stew of local carrots, braised portobello mushrooms and lime glaze with honey and vinegar that cuts the richness of the meat."

I'd appreciate hearing members' views on the potential effects of freezing on Bresse chicken flesh, foie gras, etc.

Rosie -- A question in clarification of the butter furnished to you. Was it butter that had been served previously to another table and that you received the remaining portions of?

Wimpy -- When you have a chance, could you discuss how you plan to transport frozen foods back to Asia (e.g., hoping items would not defrost)? Note that, for certain products (e.g., foie gras), there may be available non-tin packaging that does not require refridgeration (e.g., sealing in a special bag). Perhaps other members could advise.

JD -- On Petrus' truffles, please consider discussing whether you received any indications they could be from China during certain parts of the year, as was suggested to me at the restaurant. Also, what did the truffles taste like -- could they have been from China or alternatively frozen? Speaking of Terre des Truffes ...

On certain chefs' preferred cheap eats: http://www.newyorkmetro.com/restaurants/ar..._eats/chart.htm

Below is additional information on Grimes/Russian Tea Room: -- The New York Post, December 28, 1999 ("Eateries Talking War vs. Times"): "Restauranteurs who have been burned by the tough new food critic at the New York Times are talking about forming an insurgency group to fight back. Drew Nieporent . . . is leading the revolution. Nieporent's second-in-command could be Warner LeRoy. 'He [Grimes] is a little flea,' says LeRoy, whose reopened Russian Tea Room got zero stars in the Times two weeks ago. . . .LeRoy insists he wasn't angry. But he did retaliate by taking out an ad last week citing other reviewers who liked the restaurant, including Gael Greene, The Post's Steve Cuozzo, and Bob Lape." -- The New York Times, December 15, 1999 ("First the New Russia, Now the New Tea Room", by Grimes): "The result [of the remodeling of The Russian Tea Room] is appalling. It takes a little while to gauge the full dimensions of the disaster . . . . But upstairs, Mr. LeRoy has pulled out the stops, and he has proceeded with the confidence, and the taste, of a newly minted Moscow billionaire. . . . More than ever, the Russian Tea Room is not about the food. . . . The modern touches that he [Chef Fabrice Canelle] has introduced often seem peculiar, and the traditional dishes lack soul. . . . Siberian veal and beef dumplings, or pelmeni, are nicely done . . . . Much of the menu is a dreary slog. At times, I felt as though I were in the Soviet Tea Room. . . . "

Malawry -- When you have a chance, please discuss how you perceived the tests?

Nina -- The restaurant offered certain house-infused vodkas. Flavors that appeared interesting, but that I did not sample, included (1) lemongrass and ginger (?), and (2) honey.

In view of the restaurant's closing, the indicative dinner menu from the Russian Tea Room website is set forth below. I recollect certain limited differences between the menu reviewed at the restaurant and the below menu: I. CAVIAR Beluga 1 oz. 70; Golden Osetra 1 oz. 65; Sevruga 1 oz. 50. blini, crème fraîche, melted butter Napoleon of Caviar, lemon vodka cream, choice of 1 oz. Beluga 70; Golden Osetra 65; Sevruga 50. Flight of Caviar 175, blini, crème fraîche, melted butter 1 oz. each of beluga, golden osetra and sevruga with a paired vodka flight 190. / Ketel One, Luksusowa, Cristall II. FIRST COURSES Taste of Russia 28, for two salad olivier with chive oil, smoked salmon blini terrine, foie gras ballotine with pickled fruit, artichoke and duck prosciutto salad, egg salad with sevruga caviar, wild mushroom and farmer's cheese blintz, assorted smoked fish, russian deviled egg Oysters 14. chef's daily selection Seafood Ravioli 16. buckwheat pasta, lobster, shrimp, scallops, mussels, fricasee of morels, asparagus, sweet corn velouté Gravlax 12. lemon vodka cured salmon, melon salad, sevruga caviar cream, avocado coulis Squab 16. roasted squab breast, baklava of pistachios, spinach, honey, caramelized onions, roasted plum jus Duet of Foie Gras 18. napoleon of pan seared foie gras and beets; foie gras ballotine with pickled fruit Tsar's Salad 9. russian caesar salad, romaine lettuce, lavash crouton, parmesan cheese Mixed Green Salad 8. pita stuffed with farmer's cheese, pistachios, and walnuts, mustard vinaigrette III. RUSSIAN SPECIALTIES Borscht 12./18. beets, braised meats, horseradish dumplings, dill flavored sour cream, duck pirozhki Pelmeni 11./17. veal and beef dumplings in chicken broth, mustard, dill and sour cream Blintzes 14. blueberry, cheese, cherry Assortment of Pirozhki 12. braised duck, spinach and farmer's cheese, mushroom lobster Chicken Kiev 27. rice pilaf with vegetables, raisins and almonds Beef Stroganoff 30. beef tenderloin, mushroom and mustard cream sauce, dill ribbon noodles Lamb Shashlik 34. grilled skewered lamb chops marinated in georgian spices, barley mint pilaf, lamb jus Coulibiac of Salmon 26. in puff pastry with champagne caviar sauce IV. MAIN COURSES Halibut 27. georgian spice, summer barley risotto, asparagus, baby cress, peas, morels Cod 24. spring vegetable lobster broth, clams, calamari, russian mustard Tuna 30. grilled, haricots verts and tomato salad, citrus vinaigrette, brioche croutons Duck 28. roasted duck breast, crispy vareniki of duck leg confit, spring vegetables, apricot jus Chicken 29. roasted free-range chicken breast stuffed with smoked salmon, peas, potatoes, romaine hearts, spring onions, smoked salmon velouté Rib Steak 36. grilled, spring vegetables, pommes soufflés, red wine sauce Beef Goulash 26. braised beef in white wine tomato sauce, sauté of asparagus, morels and fava beans Vegetable Tart 22. caramelized vidalia onion, zucchini, tomatoes, asparagus, farmer's cheese, crispy puff pastry Side Dishes -- Russian Star Fries 8. Spring Vegetables 8. V. DESSERTS Apricot Tart, almond ice cream, 10.00 Trio of Crème Brûlée (vanilla, mango, prince vladimir tea), 10.00 Ponchiki (mini doughnuts filled with vanilla, chocolate, and raspberry cappuccino dome), 10.00 Milk Chocolate Pyramid, creme brulee center, macadamia nuts, peach cappucino, 10.00 Frozen Pistachio Nougat, fresh berries, orange pepper tuile, passion fruit coulis, 10.00 Ice Cream (vanilla ~ praline ~ almond), 10.00 Sorbet (mango ~ chocolate ~ raspberry), 10.00 Blintzes (blueberry, cherry, cheese),14.00 Chocolate Soufflé, praline ice cream, 14.00 Cherry Financier, nougatine, vanilla ice cream, 10.00

I am back from dinner at the Russian Tea Room. I would have had no inclination to visit but for the closing, but am glad Steven alerted me to such development so that I could catch a last glimpse of the restaurant. That the service left something to be desired was hinted at by the receptionist taking my call for a reservation. She would not agree to a 7:45 pm reservation, and insisted on my taking an 8:00 pm slot. She noted that reservations were only accepted on the hour or the half hour. When I arrived at 7:45, the restaurant was less than 50% full and I was promptly seated, at my request, in a booth. The service during the meal was fine. However, when I exited the restaurant and asked for a menu, the lead at the reception area defiantly refused my request. Being a menu collector, I persevered and asked two more times, but received negative responses that I deemed to be short of being professional for restaurant personnel and that were at a minimum blunt and unyielding. I settled into the red-colored seating in the booth. The tablecloths were a shade of pink slightly darker than baby pink. The decor was oddly amusing, being in such sharp contrast to good taste and so reminiscent of Christmas. The walls, heavy with various paintings, were an evergreen color, with plenty of shiny gold "decorative" finishes. The lights suspended from the ceiling had shiny, metallic red Christmas tree ornaments "adorning" them by the dozens. Music that appeared to me to connote Russian folk dance at times was discernible. The temperature of the room was set at an unduly low level, and, in a twinset with a cardigan, I still felt cold. The restaurant showed no outward signs of being on the verge of closure. The dining room staff members, clad in red kossack-like costumes, appeared to be going about their business as usual. Given my largely unsuccessful attempts of late to eat and drink more lightly for a few weeks (with certain upcoming exceptions), I decided on a glass of Perrier-Jouet and a single dish -- the Chicken Kiev. The chicken was average-plus, with an appropriate deep fried shell. As Steven mentioned, the herbed butter lodged inside the white meat had melted and was literally quasi-squirting out when the chicken was cut into. The liquid butter emoliated the chicken flesh it touched. The shape of the deep-fried chicken was surprisingly roundish/ovalish, with a little piece of bone protruding in a cute manner. The chicken was not overdone. The deep-fried chicken had fried parsley on top of it, and was presented on top of a circular-shaped bed of rice. The rice was "crisp" (i.e., not mushy), and flavored with various herbs. It contained small bits of diced carrots, peas, almond slices, black and white raisins, bits of slender asparagus, etc. Overall, an average-plus, appropriately-prepared chicken dish that I was glad to have sampled at the Russian Tea Room.