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This may very well be the best representation of what Ferran Adria and elBulli are all about. See here for a video on Jay Rayner's visit to elBulli along with an interview with Ferran. It is absolutely wonderful!

Candido Lopez continued... In the meantime, the suckling pigs continue to roast... to be continued...

Candido Lopez continued... Pig ear souffle with corn shoots and coriander sprouts. to be continued...

How could I forget to add Moto to this list? There are probably others I've missed as well, but that was a glaring omission. ← Great list, Doc. Now I'm really going to put you on the spot and ask you to rank them. Or at least list your top 10. I've been to about half of your list, and am curious to compare. ← I hate to disappoint you, but I'm not sure that I can outside of 1 & 2, which would be elBulli and Alinea in that order. They all have special memories for me and were sources of unique and wonderful meals. I might go so far as to put Ca Sento as number 3.

Watching tonight's episode of Tony Bourdain's No Reservations Diner Conversation at WD-50 reminded me that it has been too long since I've been back. That meal looked to sensational and lots of fun. This was one tasting menu that Bourdain did not seem to have a problem with. Curiosly, though his desserts were served (I presume), there was no mention of Alex Stupak.

I loved the meal that was served and some of the banter, however, I thought it was a very self-conscious version of the much better and more fun After Hours with Daniel.

Assume for a moment the theory is true. That does not necessarily mean that things grown apart do not make for great flavor combos. The question is is the theory itself actually true even if it is often true?

Candido Lopez continued... Lopez gave a little history of his restaurant... Lopez demonstrated some of these new dishes. to be continued...

Candido Lopez continued... to be continued...

Candido Lopez - Traditional Preparation of a Spanish Pig Lopez started discussing his pigs: Lopez brought the uncooked pig over to the oven and exchanged it for the one that had been roasting inside. to be continued...

CANDIDO LOPEZ AND JUAN ROCA - Tradition vs. the New: Two Interpretations on a Suckling Pig Once again providing translation services, Tona Palomino interpreted for the two seemingly disparate Spanish chefs. Their point was that the two approaches are not mutually exclusive, but instead all part and parcel of a culinary tradition that continues to evolve as it preserves what is worthwhile from the past as well as the present.

Reading another topic just know brought to mind another omission on my list - Ken Oringer's Clio in Boston - one of the pioneers of this approach in the US and still going strong. This restaurant was the breeding ground of the likes of Alex Stupac, Alex Talbot, Aki Kamozawa and Rick Billings amongst others.

It's an MG restaurant in a Westin in Denver, from what I've read. The chef's name is Ian Kleinman. Here's an article about the place. ← Sounds interesting. Another chef and restaurant that I have heard good things about and qualifies for this list is Kurtis Jantz and Neomi's at The Trump International Sonesta in Miami.

How could I forget to add Moto to this list? There are probably others I've missed as well, but that was a glaring omission.

The Ideas in Food take on Bakewise is here. They like it.

I will list the best restaurants that I have been to that I think qualify for this list. As such, I will not list meals that were not held in full-fledged restaurants such as those I have enjoyed from Alex and Aki and Shola Olunloyo. In no particular order, but as they pop into my head: elBulli Can Roca Arzak Ca Sento Alkimia Abac Sant Pau L'Esguard Monastrell Osteria Francescana L'Astrance minibar Cafe Atlantico Alinea WD-50 Tailor Coi Binkley's Most of the list above is pretty clear cut, though there might be a few that are debatable. There are a number of restaurants that I omitted, even though they may use a smattering of techniques. The preponderance of their approach is based more on the preceding nouvelle cuisine than a full scale technoemotional approach. Though currently closed, I believe L'Esguard belongs there, even though the specific techniques employed are distinct from any of the other restaurants. Nevertheless, the spirit is the same.

Sean Brock and Richard Blais are clearly two of America's top chefs working within this style. Two more I would add, though they technically do not have a restaurant, are Alex Talbot and Aki Kamozawa of Ideas in Food. Their food is as good as any I have had within this medium. They also use the techniques wisely to support flavor, texture and presentation enhancements to their food rather than simply to demonstrate wizardry. I'm too lazy to go back through this entire topic, but if Tailor hasn't been mentioned, it should be. I'm not familiar with O's Steak and Seafood. What is that place all about? The name certainly does not provide any indication of belonging on this list, but as we all know, names can be deceptive.

As Ana Sortun was winding down, the next presentation, the last of the day, was winding up. Both Joan Roca of El Celler de Can Roca in Gerona and Cándido Lopez of El Mesón de Cándido in Segovia, Spain, were accompanied by an entourage of Spanish media. Each would work with the same medium, but in different ways, For Cándido The mis-en-place was brought out to the stage. Cándido placed one of the piglets in the oven, belly-side up. A last look at notes for Cándido. Joan ready to go...

Is there a place more soothing than 10000 Waves? I make a point of visiting there whenever I am in Santa Fe. It helps that it is just up the road from where my brother lives. I am really getting a hankering for some green chiles!

Not to take anything away from Keller or Kinch, but I don't think either belong on this list. Not because they are not great chefs nor because their restaurants aren't great either, but because they are not "molecular", at least not in the sense I believe the question of this topic asked. I believe that this topic is beginning to see encroachment of restaurants that don't really belong to the category, even though they may be great in their own rights. There certainly are many more Spanish restaurants that can find their ways to this list, though. The surface has only been scratched there.

I've only started to become acquainted with Iacopo Falai. I find him and his work intriguing. For whatever reason, he seems to be flying under the eGullet radar, though I suppose his restaurants are doing ok by virtue of his continued expansion. I must make a point of trying his food outside of the few delights I have enjoyed via Starchefs. Thanks for the link. ← There was a great article in Art Culinaire #88 with him, Sam Mason, & Pichet Ong with recipes, etc. His concepts and approaches to food in general are inspiring. Now, if starchefs.com can just get Philippe Conticini to the ICC next year... ← For those of you interested in the career of Iacopo Falai, here is a photo of Iacopo sitting with Japanese food-writer and Iron Chef America judge, Akiko Katayama.

You hit the nail on the head here for those from NYC venturing to NJ for a meal. It is not that there isn't good food to be had in NJ. Clearly there is. It is simply that the potential hassle factor is so high. It doesn't take getting burned too many times to limit one's interest in venturing away. Good thing you got that spot or you might still be out.

A good porchetta sandwich is something to savor. I look forward to trying this one. What were the potatoes like?

Great news! Will it be in Spanish only or will there be an English edition?

Ana Sortun - Middle Eastern Flavor Profiles Ana Sortun of Oleana in Cambridge, Massachusetts presented next. I confess that I missed a fair portion of her presentation, not out of lack of interest, but simply for a need to recover and catch a second (or really fifth) wind. In addition, my son's computer battery needed recharging so our notes were scarce. Her presentation focused on variations of the Middle Eastern vegetable or meat dumplings, kibbeh. Using finely ground bulgur wheat as a base and a binder, Sortun prepared three different kibbehs using a variety of techniques. The first was carrot kibbeh with dates, fried almonds, and za’atar. The ingredients were first sauteed then baked. The plate includes labne and za'atar mixed with olive oil. Next was tomato kibbeh with pickled corn, sumac, and sweet and hot peppers. Pickled corn. Last was beef kibbeh with porcini, spinach and dried mint. Unfortunately, I did not get any photos of this dish.