Florida Jim

2003 is most recent release of the regular bottling I have seen. I do not know the schedule for the Valmaggiore but the 2003 has been released. Unfortunately, the wholesale price is $43. Best, Jim

N/V Conegliano Valdobbiadene, Prosecco: Nicely dry, nicely fruity and, for this taster, nice that it went somewhere else. One glass will do as it really hasn’t much character . . . and I have had Prosecco that do. 1990 Leoville Les Cases: Opening the whole time it was in the glass with light herbaceous notes and plenty of elegant fruit; good balance and a long finish. Not yet at peak but lovely, nonetheless, and excellent accompaniment to grilled steak. 2001 Giacosa, Nebbiolo D’Alba: Understated, structured, good depth and an early glimpse of what good nebbiolo can be. Buy in quantity and hold. (Aside: A look at the current wholesale prices for Giacosa products has prompted me to search for all of the older vintage wines I can afford from this producer. Most present-day prices are up at least 50 %; some designations, up 100%.) 2003 Joguet, Chinon Clos de la Dioterie: Big, rich, worsted texture wine with lots of ‘stuff’ and very ripe . . . and yet, there’s something dead and ponderous about it; it’s hard to explain . . . I have little use for vintage assessments and I personally know and follow this vineyard . . . maybe the vintage generalizations are correct in this instance; big, alcoholic, cab. franc with little character and little that indicates it will be better than it is today. Not a bad wine but not up to standard. 2002 Tamellini, Soave Classico Anguane: Lemon zest, almonds, musk and a peppery florality make-up the nose and flavors of this wine; bright and almost edgy in the mouth with good depth and balance; long, peppery finish. A feminine wine of character, focus and structure and a worthy bottle for the cellar. Good today with light to medium weight fare and better with a few years of age. (Aside: Single vineyard Soave’s are not all that common and are worth looking for. My favorites are Pieropan’s, Calvarino; Anselmi’s, Foscarino; and, this wine; each showcase the garganega grape from differing terroirs and are character filled, distinctive wines with breed and finesse. They are also excellent values; all being $15 or less.) 2001 Muga, Rioja Reserva: An obviously good wine hidden beneath a lumber yard. 2004 Cusumano, Nero d’Avola: A medium weight, relatively simple wine that is both delicious and true to its variety . . . and without the sawdust elements of the previous wine. Nice and only $9. Best, Jim

It is available here at the same place I got the red - I'll give it a try next time and report back. Best, Jim

2003 Correggia, Roero: Nebbiolo based wine with big aromatics and substantial tannin; makes me think someone is trying to build a Barolo but it doesn’t have the depth; still, a worthy accompaniment to heartier fare. 1996 Cantalupo, Ghemme: Shy aromatically but better focused and deeper flavors than the previous wine; better balance too, suggesting that further aging would be a good thing. Promising. 2002 Negri, Valtellina Superiore Inferno: Pungent, fruit nose with some dark elements and just a hint of florality; clean, focused and integrated nebbiolo flavors in the mouth with little depth but excellent balance; medium length, resolved finish. Not a cellar candidate but perfect for those who wish a solid nebbiolo for immediate consumption at a very reasonable price ($12, full retail). 1999 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco: Deeper and richer than the preceding wines, powerfully flavored, very fine tannins; showing quite young and undeveloped. One for the cellar and showing the pedigree that Barbaresco lends to this grape. Hold. Best, Jim

One of the few reasons I intentionally leave warmer climes for a December weekend in Minneapolis is for friendship. And celebration. So, Diane and I joined a diverse group of wine geeks, non-geeks and their significant others to toast the sixtieth birthday of Stephen (known to many of us as simply ‘curmudgeon’). It snowed and never got above twenty degrees but didn’t dampen anyone’s spirits – of course, being indoors most of the time helped. The ‘anti-freeze,’ too. The list of wines we tasted is too long but suffice it to say that most of those we tried were of ‘life list’ quality. Among those worth special note are: 1975 Ch. Lafite (double magnum): Character-filled, fully resolved without being past prime and perfectly balanced. Any one of those is a delight, in harmony they are something to behold. 1989 Ch. Lafite: Young and showing it; still, there is so much stuffing and in such lovely proportion – ‘hard not to like today. 1978 Diamond Creek, Cabernet Sauvignon Red Rock Terrace: The most extraordinary domestic wine I ever had and it still has plenty of grip and a long life in the cellar. 1985 Arnoux, Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots: Not quite ethereal but very close. Doing very well, after all these years. 1982 Ch. Trotanoy: ‘Merlot, it’s not just for blending anymore;’ silky and flavorful and the best of several ’82 Bordeaux tried. 1981 Guigal, Côte Rotie La Mouline: Wonderful aromatics that could only be Côte Rotie and satin textured all the way through the finish. Marvelous. Were that the years had been as good to me as to these bottles. A weekend filled with great stories, gentle kindness and many happy returns. Best, Jim

1999 Saint Innocent, Pinot Noir Seven Springs Vineyard: Aromas of celery, blackberry and cola with a hint of spice; the same flavors with some chocolate added, appealing texture; very tannic, drying finish. This wine is not ready and has one of two fates; either it will resolve in 6-10 years or dry out completely. In any event, today is not the day to decide. 2000 Raveneau, Chablis Forêt: Forêt is a lieu-dit at the southern end of Montmain, a premier cru vineyard on the left bank of Serein River with rounded slopes facing south and south-east. It is also, in the right hands (eg. Raveneau, V. Dauvissat, etc.), a vineyard that produces grand cru quality wines. And this is one of them. It starts out crisp with a steely mouth-feel; bright, ripe fruit; intensity to burn and ample depth to mature and develop for a decade. Along the way are complexity, freshness, focus and character. Drink a great wine today; a greater one in five (or more) years. 2000 R. & V. Dauvissat, Chablis La Forest: (From the same vineyard as the foregoing wine despite the different spellings); detergent and fruit nose; more aggressively steely than the preceding wine with lemon-drop/mineral flavors, excellent concentration and intensity; powerful acidity on the finish. Not as ready as the Raveneau but every bit the quality. 2001 Hirtzberger, Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel: Layered, seamless, harmonious, supple, bright and classy; still quite youthful and developing secondary character only with time in the decanter yet sublime at first pour. One of a handful of sites (and producers) worldwide that do riesling this well. Years to peak . . . 1999 G. Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Albéric Bouvet: Character driven, fruit filled, complex and yummy, as always. Thanks John. Best, Jim

2001 Moreira, Douro Poeira: Youthful and primary on the nose but closing down on the palate with more tannin than fruit. I didn’t expect this wine to close down and, maybe, it’s just this bottle; this was such a fruit forward and exuberant wine at release. After 6 hours in the decanter, it is more complex, less primary and is much more enjoyable. But it is still a brooding and big boned wine; cellaring is starting to make sense to me. Dignitaries from St. Barth’s come to visit: Lunch: With sliced meats, spreads, crackers and condiments: 2004 Ottaviano Lambruschi, Colli di Luni Costa Marina: Made from 30 year old vines of 100% hand harvested vermentino that never sees wood, 13.5% alcohol from the Liguria region of Italy. It is complex on both the nose and palate with just picked green chilies, apples, peaches, fresh cut herbs and floral scents and flavors, very concentrated and focused, bright acidity, a satin texture and a very slightly bitter finish that lasts and lasts. Madame approves, Monsieur isn’t sure. Dinner: Aperitif: 2003 Bava, Chardonnay Thou Bianc: Stony, earthy, unoaked chardonnay from Piemonte; not my favorite as the earthiness seems to dominate but not bad. Madame and Monsieur aren’t sure. With duck ragu on pasta: 2000 Dom. Drouhin, Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureses: Open and generous but a bit too much new French oak for this taster. Still, very Chambolle and plump on the palate, as well as, ready to drink. Madame and Monsieur approve. 2000 Allemand, Cornas (un-sulphered): Smoky, earthy, black fruit aromatics that are expansive and complex; youthful in the mouth with flavors that echo the nose, excellent balance and concentration; long finish and utterly sublime with the dish. Madame and Monsieur are delighted. Lunch: With sliced meats paté, cheeses, spreads and condiments: 2002 Huet, Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont: Opened specifically to go with the paté (duck liver); smells of crème brulée ; primary and slight sweet in the mouth with good concentration and intensity; medium finish. Too young to drink now but good with the dish. Madame isn’t sure and Monsieur is pleased. 1998 Trimbach, Riesling Clos St. Hune: Served too cold but as it warms, great depth and concentration with laser-like focus on both the nose and palate, intense, complex, powerful and special. Monsieur, who does not care for Alsatian rieslings, says it is better than expected, especially as it warms; OTOH, Madame begins singing, reciting poetry and disrobing. (Note to self; the true value of Clos St. Hune is grossly under-estimated.) Dinner: With spinach and white bean soup 2004 Martinsancho, Rueda: Starts out all grapefruit on the nose but, as it warms, some mineral and herbal tones make an appearance; viscous and concentrated; long finish. Good with the dish and a freshness that would make for good accompaniment with most lighter fare. Madame approves, Monsieur says a little is all he wishes. With grilled N.Y strip steaks and a potato/mushroom gratin: 1996 Chave, Hermitage: A wine that evolves in the glass but is always beautifully balanced; starts with a bit of brett that seems to dissipate with airing; excellent complexity, smoothly textured and quite long; truly a delightful wine. Madame approves, Monsieur is not sure the wine is entirely sound but enjoys it, nonetheless. 1996 Giacosa, Barbaresco Asili Riserva: Big and tannic with a bacon note on the nose, substantial concentration and lots of good nebbiolo flavor; obviously closed and just as obviously, a great wine. Madame and Monsieur approve. 1998 Allemand, Cornas Chaillot: corked. 2002 d’Angerville, Volnay Taillepieds: Closing up as this is a bit too candied and new world-ish at the moment; still, the structure speaks well for some cellar time. Madame and Monsieur agree this is not the moment for this wine. 1998 Rochioli, Pinot Noir East Block: A frightful thing that, although it has pleasant aromatics (albeit, nothing grand), is attenuated, acidic, hollow and unpleasant in the mouth. Madame and Monsieur disapprove. 2000 A. et P. De Villaine, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise – La Digoine: Finally, a pinot noir worth drinking; clean, pure, red fruit aromatics with hints of spice; bright flavors echo the nose in a lightweight delivery with medium length. Has greater depth than the weight would have one assume and drinks very well now. Madame and Monsieur approve. Best, Jim

I'm familiar with Guy De Pardon in Fleurie; could this be the correct name? They usually make very silky and supple wines; it surprises me that you wold not think much of it, unless of course, you just like bigger wines to begin with. In any event, a pretty good producer in most vintages. (A short word about 2003; it is an atypical vintage and was highly touted by Mr. Rovani and others in the media. I would suggest that, the reason it was lauded was that the media writers like very fruit forward wines, ie., 'big' in the context of Beaujolais. I'm sure some readers would agree with that opinion but I do not. I think many wines in the 2003 vintage are blousy, soft, candied and out of balance. But one man's poison is another's meat, eh?) Hospices de Beaujeu is a co-op/negociant where the wines are sold off at auction (much like the Hospices de Beaune in Burgundy). They may now have a domaine bottling also but I have not seen it. I do not wish to say anything bad about the wines but I doubt you will find first rate Regnie from this operation. 2001 was a poor vintage in most of Beaujolais. I am not familiar with Rastin. 2002 was a good vintage in most of Beaujolais. In my post above (in this thread) are several suggestions for producers (and vintages) that you may find more pleasing. The nice thing about Beaujolais is that you can do a good bit of experimenting without breaking the bank. And I would urge you to do just that. Best, Jim

With potato/parsley soup and cheese toasts: 1999 Dom. de Roally (Henri Goyard), Mâcon-Village: Ripe chardonnay fruit scents with an aroma of poached pears in cinnamon, deep, clean and expansive; viscous on the palate but the acid structure sparks flavors that echo the nose and add white pepper, light honey, mineral and spring water, concentrated, intense, very slight RS and perhaps the best balance of any chardonnay based wine in recent memory (a symmetry that is both hard to explain and harder to match); long, mouthwatering finish. I understand that this was the last vintage where Goyard was in total charge – I have had two previous bottles that showed closed and sweet – this was magnificent and a wine I wish I had more of, especially since it cost $21, full retail. Started to tighten-up some with air, so it will do fine with further time in the cellar. With gremolata seared chicken and a potato, mushroom and beet gratin: 2000 Raveneau, Chablis Montée de Tonnerre: Smells like a fountain that someone squeezed lemon juice into – crisp, penetrating, lightly lemony and very fresh; not as viscous in the mouth as the preceding wine but more complex with licorice accents to the mineral/fruit driven flavor profile and some green chili hints, bright and intense but still slightly closed; long finish that’s full of cut. This has opened quite a bit since release when it was simply too acidic and tight to drink. But this vineyard seems to grow grapes for vin de garde, especially in Raveneau’s hands. Many years to peak but excellent with the dish. With leftover pork loin and my Mom’s potato salad: 1996 Dom. G. Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny: Bright tones of beet root, black raspberry, spice and mushroom on a crisp, slightly attenuated nose; flavors follow the nose with an elegant delivery that is bright and almost seamless; medium length, slightly tart finish. Ultimately, a pleasant wine and nice with the dish but does not live-up to my expectations for either Roumier or Chambolle. A little softer after 6 hours in the decanter but still not special. With pasta in red sauce with Italian sausage: 1995 La Jota, Petite Sirah: Powerful scents of plums, cherries, spice and bitter-sweet chocolate with just a hint of tar; very full bodied with incredibly fine and sweet tannins (and plenty of them) with flavors that follow the nose, concentrated, intense and a worsted texture that coats the mouth; long, tannin-sweet finish. Bitter-sweet chocolate is the dominant flavor, the texture is simply yummy and the tannins are not in the least bit drying. The most enjoyable petite sirah I can remember and at peak, now. Excellent with the dish. Best, Jim

I can't really tell from the picture (although I appreciate your effort) but it may be tartrate crystals. These are formed from the tartaric acid that is in the wine, especially when the wine is exposed to cold temps. Its harmless and virtually tasteless but should probably be decanted out as it does have a textural quality akin to salt crystals. Or it could just be sediment if this is an unfiltered wine. Best, Jim

May I inquire as to the producers of the wine you have? It has always been my feeling that, Beaujolais is part of Burgondy and, in Burgundy, producer is paramount. Best, Jim

Max, I do hope folks see more in this thread than just discussion about Nouveau. If wishes were true, mine would be that readers note that cru Beaujolais can be, when in the hands of a good producer, one of the finest, most expressive, least expensive, food friendly wines made anywhere on earth. But then, I've always been a dreamer . . . Best, Jim

Max, I have a friend who has been a winemaker for many years and he says that many Nouveau bottlings are so rife with perservative (due its fragility) as to give drinkers a near-toxic reaction. Whether that is accurate or not, I do not know. But I do know that there are very few Nouveau that I have much interest in, and certainly none of the more available labels. But, it does have its place . . . say, Belleville, for example. Best, Jim

What John said. Best, Jim

CCane, Although I have no idea when the Nouveau arrives, every wine store on the planet will trumpet the moment. It will be hard to miss it. Frankly, I like a few Nouveau, despite the vast sea of swill that comes in so labeled. A few producers make an effort to create something that, while by no means intended for the cellar, is intended to be more than just a marketing ploy. For instance, if you happen to see the Nouveau from John-Paul Brun (Dom. Terres Dorees) it is certainly worth a try. Best, Jim

Phil, Let's count our blessings, amigo; that same mentality has kept prices reasonable. Best, Jim

John, I am one, although I also drink them young. Recently, I tasted some 1983's which were drinking very similar to old Morey or Chambolle. And, IMO, old Morey or Chambolle is worth the wait. BTW, I agree with you about David and Jamie at Chambers Street; I shop there on a regular basis even though I reside several states away. And a quick look at their website (http://www.chambersstwines.com/) will give one an idea of the inventory. Best, Jim

Mike, If I ever write a book about wine, it will be about Beaujolais. My cellar is full to bursting with better examples of it and I drink it several times a week. Somewhere along the line I compiled the following in a effort to learn and inform (several people contributed to this): More than you ever wanted to know about Beaujolais: Appellations: Beaujolais – accounting for about half the wine produced here, it comes from the Bas Beaujolais and the flatter land to the west of Belleville Beaujolais Superieur – is essentially from the Beaujolais appellation but must have a minimum potential alcohol of 10.5% when picked (as opposed to 10% for simple Beaujolais) Beaujolais-Villages accounts for about 25% of production and is sourced from the hills of the northern part of the Beaujolais region. Beaujolais Crus - of which there are ten, are found in this northern part and each bears the name of the commune of its origin. From north to south (approximately) the Crus are: St.-Amour, Julienas, Chenas, Moulin-a-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnie, Brouilly and Cote de Brouilly Beaujolais Nouveau – this may carry the appellation of Beaujolais, Beaujolais Superieur or Beaujolais-Villages. It is very young and generally considered to be for immediate consumption. Producers: The four small producers most recognizable (mainly due to the wine press) are Marcel LaPierre, Guy Breton, Jean Foillard and Jean-Paul Thevenet. This “gang of four” regularly gets high 80 and low 90 point ratings from Parker and others. Other producers of note are Dom. Vissoux, Louis Jadot, Jean-Paul Brun, Diochon, Paul Janin, Michael Chignard, Dominique Piron, Chat. Thixin, Dom. Dupeuble, Dom. de la Voute des Crozes, Jean Calot, Pierre et Paul Durdilly, Dom. du Granit, Alain Michaud, Devignes, Savoye, Jacky Janodet, Souchons, Georges Viornery, Laurent Martray and Jean-Paul Ruet. I have also had excellent and age-worthy Fleuries from Coudert a/k/a Clos de la Roilette. Recent Vintages: 1999 – good vintage produced many tannic, structured cru wines 2000 – good vintage produced many cru wines which will mature before the 99’s 2001 – poor vintage with very few exceptions 2002 – excellent vintage with many cru wines carrying the structure of 99 and the fruit of 00 2003 – atypical vintage (very hot); some good wines 2004 – too early but appears to be similar to 2002 Personal comments: Virtually all Beaujolais rouge is made from the Gamay grape. A small amount of Beaujolais blanc is made from chardonnay. I find the Cru Beaujolais to be my favorite wines but I have had excellent Beaujolais-Villages and a few good wines from the other appellations. I find that in excellent vintages, Cru Beaujolais from very good producers can age and develop very easily for 3-5 years and, in exceptional cases, up to ten years (sometimes, more). A bit more Beaujolais lore; the older vines have very small grapes, usually with thick-ish skins, and are still found on a rootstock called Viala which is apparently the best for gamay. Moulin-à-Vent, Côte de Brouilly, and Morgon are considered to be best for cellaring. There is a domaine called 'Souchons' in Morgon which has vines close to eighty years old, magnificent wine. Alain Michaud does an old vine cuvee (Cuvee Prestige) of Brouilly which is superb. I also find that each of the Cru is, in the best of producer’s hands, capable of exhibiting its own terroir. This is especially true of those wines capable of aging. Here is a brief description (IMO) of the wines from the crus: Moulin-a-Vent: The most Burg-like (Beaune-like) of the 10 crus, these often show less forward fruit, higher acidity and more tannin than any others. If you want to age a cru, this is traditionally the one to pick. Julienas: These wines can show some real structure under loads of forward fruit - so they are among the more age-worthy (3-4 years) of the crus. I've found these to be more fleshy than Moulin. I think Julienas and Morgon run more in the blackberry crowd than the other crus. Morgon: Dense wines (for Beaujolais), approaching the stature of Moulin-A-Vent in the best cases, while still giving the impression of being wholly Beaujolais. Can have the stuffing for some age. Chenas: The smallest of the crus, so these wines are less often seen around here. Most of the best land is now part of Moulin-A-Vent, I think. I feel that the wines have less density than Moulin-A-Vent or Julienas, and lack the aromatic quality that Fleurie and Chiroubles. It often leaves something missing, for my tastes at least. Then again, I haven't had more than a handful of really interesting Chenas. Fleurie: Lighter in nature, but perhaps the most aromatically and texturally complete of the crus, often with a floral element beneath the ripe fruit. I think that the "crunchy fruit" quality of Beaujolais really shows in good Fleurie. For these reasons, they are usually best young (although Coudert’s wines are notable exceptions). Very pretty wines. Chiroubles: Similar to Fleurie, but often a bit less dense. Think elegance and lightness. Is Chiroubles the Volnay of Beaujolais? Brouilly: I've found them to be missing something, as they don't have the size of the age-worthy crus and aren't as fun to drink young as Fleurie and Chiroubles. Still, they can show some nice prominent red fruit balance with structure and, in the hands of Alain Michaud, can age beautifully. Regnie: The newest of the crus. It often falls in the lower part of the pack, when you think about depth and structure - maybe a bit less complete that Chirobles, but still with many of the same qualities. St.-Amour: One of the more lighter, softer, quaffing-friendly crus. Rarely would these be "serious" wines, but for a simple quaffer around the grill, they can be quite nice. Cote de Brouilly: I've not had many of these; I've read that they "fit" somewhere around Chenas. Best, Jim

If searing on the stove, I like pinot, especially old Burgundy. If on the grill, the smoky flavor imparted by the grill may give you a point to work from. I'm not much for cab-merlot but a nice syrah, particularly Cote-Rotie, comes to mind. Best, Jim

2003 Bruno Giacosa, Nebbiolo D’Alba Valmaggiore di Vezza D’Alba: More chocolate on the nose than I am used to with this bottling with red fruit and spice; medium body with flavors that follow the nose, fleshy, bright acidity and substantial grip, good concentration and balance; very long, somewhat drying finish. Showing quite young but this is a gutsy, viscous, 14% alcohol wine and, IMO, will be a terrific bottle given sufficient time in the cellar. Everything is there; fruit, structure, balance; all, clearly marked by the vintage but still having excellent potential. After about nine hours in the decanter, it was much more classic, ripe nebbiolo with dusty rose accents and deep cherry fruit. ‘Quite a wine. However, the price for this has doubled since last vintage. The whole Giacosa line has followed suit and it is disheartening to think that this will soon be beyond my price range. Ah well, the way of the world . . . 1996 Pertinace, Langhe: 70% nebbiolo, 15% barbera, 15% cabernet sauvignon; shows some warm brick and floral scents on its nebbiolo fruit nose; nice integration and grip in the mouth with flavors that are mostly nebbiolo but have a definite cabernet streak; and a long, smooth finish. Very slight bricking in the glass gives hint of its decade in bottle and the balance indicates it will last awhile. But very good now with black bean chili. Truffle dinner with friends: Truffled croquet, as a starter. With seared scallops and crab cakes: 2001 Didier Dagueneau, Pouilly-Fume Silex: A bit of perm solution on nose along with the expected citrus and mineral tones; but none of that perm stuff on the palate, deep citrus flavors, concentrated, viscous and intense; long, clean finish. Youngish and the nose is a bit odd but the wine sang with the seafood and was delightful overall. With white truffle risotto: 1996 Dominique Laurent, Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru Hospices de Beaune, Cuvée Boillot: Decanted three hours and, when served, one of the few ’96’s I’ve had that was at peak; ethereal aromatics; rich but focused in the mouth with great fruit and mushroom flavors and a very long, seamless finish. I usually have no use for Laurent’s wines, but this could turn me around. Better still, a classic pairing that lived up to its billing. With chicken with white truffles: 1995 Gaja, Costa Russi: Opened and immediately poured, which was a mistake as this needs another decade in the cellar or many hours in the decanter; slightly musty on opening but that blew off to bacon, cabernet and red fruit aromas (nothing floral); very bright acids made me think sangiovese at first but then some of the nebbiolo/cabernet fruit came ‘round, powerful, no sign of overt wood and well concentrated; long, fairly integrated finish. I don’t taste a lot of Gaja’s wines but, in every instance, I get the distinct impression that their drinking window is measured in minutes. This “younged up” in the glass and never gave full measure. Nonetheless, it was a well balanced and well flavored wine that I will be happy to drink somebody else’s bottles of – no chance I’ll ever buy one. Best, Jim

Dinner with Mark: With assorted cheeses and nuts: 1998 Salomon, Grüner Veltliner Reserve: Amid the fruit, an attractive cooked vegetable scent; medium bodied in the mouth with lovely balance and bright acidity; medium length finish. Showing at or near peak and very well, indeed. With grilled pork chops, roasted onions on a bed of herbs, salad, and, roasted sweet potatoes: 1989 Chat. Lynch Bages: (decanted 7 hours but even better after an hour in the glass) very complex nose with an herbaceous tone and a smoky accent on black fruit, some bottle bouquet; rich in the mouth (reminding me of the texture this had on release but better integrated) and again, very complex but the herbaceous element is all but gone; very long, layered finish. Magnificent wine that had us all rolling our eyes in awe. I suspect this has many years ahead of it. and, 2000 Dessilani, Gattinara Reserva: Much more new world in style (but not too much so for me) with dark chocolate predominant on the nose; smoothly textured, concentrated and rich on the palate with a strong chocolate note along with solid nebbiolo fruit; medium length finish. Suffered by following the Lynch but a fine wine despite its non-traditional profile. Ready now; will last at least awhile. With cheese: 1996 Allemand, Cornas Reynard: Expansive nose of compost, peat and black fruit; concentrated and intense of the palate without the richness of the preceding wine but with stronger flavors in a more compact and focused delivery, well balanced; long, powerful finish. Mark had never tasted this wine and, since I like it so much, I had to give him the chance. Curiously, he did not like it and said the nose smelled of decay although the palate was better. Being a very experienced taster, I think his comments go to show that this wine is likely not for everyone; an idiosyncratic bottle that I adore. Good now; good later. Best, Jim

Dinner with friends: With squash soup: 2004 Ocone, Falanghina Taburno: Lightly scented and bodied, bright acidity but not a lot of flavor; I prefer Feudi di San Gregorio’s rendition of this grape (a bit more weight and flavor) and it is more widely available. Good with the soup. With grilled pork loin with a potato and wild mushroom gratin: 2004 Terres Dorées (J.P. Brun), Fleurie: Quite aromatic; firm in the mouth with strong flavors and good grip; long finish. Typical of Fleurie on the nose but more powerful in the mouth than the appellation suggests. Excellent with the dish. Very well made. With apple-bread pudding: 2002 El Grifo, Malavasía, Dulce (375 ml): A very clean but sweet wine that is light in the mouth and has good cut. Not so good with the pudding but delicious on its own. Thanks Loren. Others: 2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées: Great wine; as always. Yep, GREAT! 2000 J.L. Chave, St. Joseph Offerus: Better than expected (‘cause I’ve had a few vintages of this that have been swill); Rhone on the nose and palate, decent fruit, nice balance. ‘Will never set the world on fire but good accompaniment to dinner. 1999 El Sequé: New oak nose that threatens bad craziness on the palate; not so, the mouth is full of old vine fruit, solid structure, bright acidity and good balance; long, tart finish. Showing very young but I think this is one of those wines into which the oak will actually integrate. Big concentration and good balance make that call a little easier. ‘Lots of promise. Best, Jim.

Hmmmm. I haven't had this in a long time. Wasn't this supposed to be one of those sleepers? I think this was THE vintage for Meyney. ← Brad, Unfortunately, I did not have a chance to taste this with food; who knows how it would have shown? I am all but over blind tastings. I have heard the arguments in their favor and I'm not buying it. If it wasn't for the fact that the group that made up this tasting were all friends of mine, I would not have attended. For me, wine with food is the only way. Best, Jim

1995 Dom. Henri Perrot-Minot, Gevrey-Chambertin: Ahhhhh, Burgundy! Lovely aromatics – floating above the vineyard aromatics – with black fruit, spice and Gevrey earth aromas; medium bodied, masculine structure but deep fruit, good concentration, complexity and balance; and, a long, layered finish. Perfect with salmon cakes and darn good by itself. An eleven year old village wine that is at peak. With a wild mushroom and pasta gratin: 2001 Texier, Côte- Rôtie VV: More about syrah than about the place but still moderately complex and fruit forward. A delicious and interesting wine . . . until I opened . . . 1996 Allemand, Cornas Reynard: Starts out with a compost nose and lots of layers but morphs into smoked bacon, light olive and big black fruit; the palate is bright, very concentrated, hugely complex and so distinctive as to be unmistakably Allemand, Cornas; long, very complex finish. A simple truth – if you want something at my house, bring this wine. As good a wine as I have in my cellar and utterly unique. At a blind tasting of meritage wines; brief impressions: 2002 Soos Creek, Meritage (WA): High toned cherry, slight stemminess, light oak; forward and candied in the mouth with some structure but, overall, a simple wine. 1999 Chat. Carbonneaux (sp?)(Graves): Reticent nose, some earth; closed, tannic, green? 2002 Ridge, Santa Cruz Mtn.: Balanced, clean, black fruit, oaky, licorice. 1999 Lail Vinyds.: Light nose, slightly stemmy; much better on the palate with full flavors, tannic and balanced. 1995 Chat. Margaux: (decanted for ten hours) Light red fruit with some earth and herb tones; smooth, silky, full, firm, tannic, but what a texture – thrilling! 1998 Cyrus: Oaky, dilly and sour; not Alexander Valley’s best effort. 1999 Terra Bianca, Onyx (WA): Stemmy, cinnamon nose; smooth with underbrush tones but ultimately short. 1994 Ravenswood, Pickberry: A little sour on the nose with old wood and solid fruit; complex palate; somewhat drying. 1999 Robt. Craig, Affinity: candied, young, oaky – Napa. 1998 Justin, Isosceles: Perfumed, silky, smoky, nice; very balanced and giving. 1997 BV, Tapestry: Oaky, hugely tannic, nothing interesting. 1989 Chat. Meyney: Sour, fishy nose; thin palate. Best, Jim

2002 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie: Given about an hour in the decanter, it integrates and opens nicely; the essence of grace and backbone; a perfectly strummed chord of fruit across the palate and quite persistent. With homemade pizzas, delicious. 1987 Vincent Arroyo, Cabernet Sauvignon: Substantial sediment requires decanting; even after an hour in the decanter, it’s a bit closed on the nose but with a high toned mint-like aroma that climbs almost to a VA register; solid fruit in the mouth with none of the cooked notes typical of this vintage, foursquare and plenty of grip; drying but longer than expected finish. A 100% cabernet wine that was, from release to 2004, the most tannic wine I ever tasted. Still tannic but the fruit shines through with food even though it’s still pretty closed. Lots of stuffing, little development and no real way to judge what will come next – a song I sing often with aged/aging CA cabernet. 1999 Jasmin, Côte Rôtie: Closed upon opening; after two hours in a decanter, its typicité, complexity and fruit make an appearance but barely and without balance. A wine for tomorrow and tomorrow and . . . 2002 Dönnhoff, Riesling (QbA): Cleansing acidity with a beautiful, semi-sweet, mountain stream palate; aromatic, lovely and long. So delicious and balanced. Yum! 1999 Trimbach, Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile: Alex, I’ll take ‘Always Reliable Wines’ for $1,000; if the answer is Alsace, ‘who is Trimbach’ is the question. Excellent riesling from first sip to aftertaste – every vintage, this one included. 2002 Clos Roche Blanche, Gamay Touraine: There are good wines and then there are great wines; this is one of the good ones; others will try to make great wines (and it can be done at this price point, albeit seldom) but, while they’re at it, CRB will continue to make gamay that goes well with your dinner and tastes delicious. As does this one. Best, Jim