Florida Jim

I'm not certain how familiar with Soave you are or what's available in your market, but I would love to hear your impressions of the Foscarino bottling by Anselmi. A single vineyard (as is the Anguane) that never sees wood. Probably my favorite Soave ever. Best, Jim

Jim, I'll be very interested to see what you think of this in another 2-3 years. A recent 2000 version of the same wine had lost some of the sweetness and richness to become no less flavorful but showed a tension I had not noticed closer to release. Good wine. Best, Jim

2002 Terres Dorees (Brun), Beaujolais-Villages L’Ancien VV: The funk is, indeed, gone but this bottle still shows very young and slightly disjointed with grapey flavors and aromas. Good now, better later. About $12 on release; I’d pay that again. 1999 Laderas de Pinoso, Alicante El Sequé: Day one: this monastrell has dried out and the wood tannins are so overwhelming that the wine is all but undrinkable. Day two: not as bad because the fruit is stronger but this is unbalanced. About $20 on release; I’d not pay that again. (This producer also has a lesser priced bottling (about $8) called Viñedos de El Sequé which I much prefer – apparently the lower price means less wood.) 2002 Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner Terrassen: Not as thick as some wines from this producer but solid, authentic flavors and scents with lots of black pepper spice and mineral accents; fully integrated, beautifully balanced and a delicious and representative Grüner. Bought on sale for $8; I’d pay three times that again. 2004 Pepière, Muscadet: Maybe bottle number 62 (well . . .); wonderful. 2001 Copain, Pinot Noir Dennison Vineyard: From my favorite Anderson Valley vineyard; 14% alcohol; bright raspberry, red-fruit nose with spice and mineral accents and a freshness that is hard to describe; crisp and clean across the palate with ripe tannins, deep fruit flavors and an etched, layered profile; good balance, no heat, and very long. As good a pinot as I have had from California and every bit the equal of the better premier cru Chambolle producers in quality and complexity. A really superb wine with lots of development to come. About $42 on release and worth every penny of it and more. 2004 de Villaine, Bourgogne La Fortune: Pretty much my ‘go to’ Bourgogne these days with a lightweight, brisk delivery of black fruit and some spice; nice balance and length. A fine ‘little’ Burgundy for $19; I’d pay that again. 1993 Vincent Arroyo, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve: Ultimately, this bottle turned out to be slightly corked but upon first opening, it was clear evidence that California can make cabernet based wines that compete with the world’s finest; expansive nose with immense nuance and bottle bouquet; sweet fruit, layers of flavor and excellent depth – of course, little by little the TCA came to the fore – ah, for what might have been. $25 on release; I’d pay twice that again. Best, Jim

Hard question. Reticence on the nose compared to older wines of the same category, a certain sharp/hard edge to the palate and a prominent acidity despite a textural depth are, to me, indicators that this wine has not yet opened. Further, it has little evident complexity although I can discern its mineral and earth elements, mostly on the finish. I might add that riesling from the Rheingau usually takes some time to open so the track record of the area indicates this would likely be a young wine - and I found it so. Ideally, retasting in 3-5 years sounds appropriate but I suspect this wine will live for decades. Moreover, it gives every indication that it will develop over that time. IMO, Leitz is a reasonably consistent within the context of any given vintage. I do not know what 2004 was like in the area. This bottling is quite rare; if indeed, you have it available for $18, I would try it. We do not agree regarding the profile of Trimbach's wines. I find the Clos St. Hune and Cuvee Fredric Emile both to be bone dry examples of the grape (not to mention sourced from Alsace), whereas, most non-troken German spatlese have some residual sugar by definition. Hence, my trying to compare Trimbach and Leitz would not follow the same path that your comparison would. Although, that in itself may answer some of your questions about our respective preferences. And BTW, I think we are all pretty much bozos on this bus. Best, Jim

2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées: Has become a richer, fuller wine since release yet still has plenty of cut. Very good and quite refreshing. Enjoyed at a friend’s house; he was taken with the wine and wrote down the particulars – this wine can ‘convert’ those who have it. About $7 on sale; I’d pay that and more, again. 2002 Leitz, Riesling Spätlese Rüdesheimer Berg Kaisersteinfel: A very dry, mineral driven Spätlese with considerable depth and complexity. Certainly, too young to fully assess, but already a wonderful wine with what appears to be a long shelf-life. About $25; I’d pay that again if I could find the wine. 2002 Jacky Janodet, Chénas: Texture of linen, spiced aromatics that carry to the youthful, bright, red fruit nose. A lightweight but not a weakling with good structure and a long, detailed finish. About $13; I’d pay that again. 2004 de Villaine, Bourgogne La Fortune: The Beaujolais of Bourgogne (weight-wise) but with fuller flavors and a silken mouth-feel. Very easy to enjoy often. About $19; I’d pay that again. 2003 Paul Lato, Syrah Bien Nacido Vnyd.: From the Santa Maria Valley, carries 15.1% alcohol; smells and tastes like fully ripe Crozes-Hermitage, no evident oak or heat, broad in the mouth but still bright and clean and a lovely, satin finish. A delicious wine and definitely not in the ‘cocktail’ style but with this much alcohol, I would not cellar it. Price unknown; thanks Chris. Best, Jim

Between Neive and the commune of Rodello d'Alba (outside Barbaresco). This is nebbiolo that sees no oak and has a lifespan approximately the same as a human being. I should be saving this for my kids and grands - but I won't. Best, Jim

1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Murto Vnyd.: On day one this is stemmy and very slightly reduced; not worth drinking. Put cork in bottle, set bottle on counter, return to bottle 36 hours later. Yep, better. Very Chambolle-like dark fruit, still a slight herbal scent but now its accent not lead role, good depth, nuance, character, balance and length. No good reason to open this any time soon. About $30 on release; I’d pay that again. 2004 Pepiére, Muscadet: As wonderful as ever. 1992 Fieldstone, Port Staten Family Res.: A domestic port at 19% alcohol made from petite sirah; quite something with very bright acidity that whips flavors of chocolate, fruit, spice and earth into a delineated and clean delivery across the palate; good depth and nuance, balanced and long. No heat from the alcohol and no raisin flavors. With a ‘cake’ made only of compressed figs and nuts, served with some Manchego cheese, simply stellar. About $30 on release; I’d pay that again. Dinner with friends: With deviled crab and boiled shrimp: 1996 J. Dauvissat, Chablis Vaillons: Round in the mouth with the texture of satin and deep, clear flavors of white fruit and stone; nice aromatics, great balance, good length. A dream with the seafood and, for those interested, not the slightest hint of oxidation. Price unknown. With wild mushroom lasagna: 1993 A. & F. Gros, Vosne Romanée Aux Réas: Most tasters thought it past prime; I thought it fully resolved, elegant and delicious with a slight decay to the nose and palate, a silken texture and a lovely fruit-sweetness that is only developed by aging. Yummy with the food. Price unknown. 1989 Gastaldi, Rosso: An entirely different animal; big, powerful, giving no indication of its 17 years; worsted texture with lots of grip, big black fruit, tar, spice and earth flavors, slight hint of VA and unbelievable length. A baby today but so good with the food that I forgot its size. $50 on release; I’d pay that again. With almond tart, fresh raspberries and Asian pears: N/V Nino Franco, Prosecco Rustico: Bright, active bead, lightly flavored, bone dry and not only good accompaniment with the dish but also a palate cleanser after the Rosso. $13, I’d pay that again. Best, Jim

John, He does have a lot of tasting notes (no scores though) but he lists them under the description for each domaine which, I think, gives one a little background info. about what kind of wines (by comparison to others) the domaine makes. So rather than a compendium of "this is what's good and bad" I get a some relative information as to style over the years. Anyway, helpful for me. The information on the land, villages and vineyards is pretty detailed and his introduction about Burgundy in general is comprehensive. I do wish he'd do a new edition as the vintage comments are a bit dated. Hence, the strong point of Meadow's publication. Best, Jim

1996 Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny: No longer rock hard but still firm; some juicy black fruit showing through, mid-weight, not quite foursquare and medium length. Perhaps, another decade? About $32; I doubt I’d pay that again. 2002 Baumard, Savenièrres: Correct, clean, medium weight, bone-dry Savenièrres that keeps me coming back for more. Excellent with smoked trout. Lovely juice. About $20; I’d pay that again. 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Alberic Bouvet: Fleshing out with less emphasis on the earthy accents and more on a supple core of syrah fruit; still complex and bright but smoother, fuller and longer. A tip of the hat to Claude Kolm who, when this was released, counseled patience. (Of course, I have not been but I bought a lot of this so it looks like I’ll be able to follow its development, in spite of myself.) About $9 on sale; worth multiples of that. 2003 Laderas de Pinoso, Viñedos de El Sequé: From Alicante, Spain and mostly monastrell; almost Bandol-esque on the nose with dark fruits, road tar and a light floral note; full, rich flavors follow the nose, good acidity, light tannins, good balance; medium finish. Good with or without food and probably better short term than long. About $8; I’d pay that again. 2002 R. & V. Dauvissat, Chablis: Probably, as authentic and character driven a village Chablis as I have tasted; beautiful mix of lemon drop and stone on the nose and palate, excellent depth, good cut, great balance and a very long finish. ‘Killer with tuna and white bean salad. About $25; I’d pay that again. 2004 Pepière, Muscadet Clos des Briords: More reserved than the regular bottling from the same vintage but no less impressive; stony, citric, broader than expected, nice balance and good sustain. $13 and worth at least that. Best, Jim

Yeah, Coates book is about as comprehensive on the Côte d'Or as one gets. I have read all those mentioned and enjoyed them but Coates' book is the bible. Best, Jim

2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allèes: In its youth, a wine of acidic cut and deep fruit; today, it has smoothed out and is fleshy, mouth-filling, and bright and certainly shows its breed. I can’t think of many white Burgundies I enjoy more and this was only $7 on sale; a price I’d surely pay again. 2002 Desvignes, Morgon Côte de Py: Not as recognizable as a Morgon but beautifully elegant, lightweight and clean with focused fruit and nuance. Almost ethereal. Price unknown. 2002 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie: It is impossible to have too much of this wine; clearly of its place, solidly structured, brimming with fresh fruit and nicely accented with earth and spice tones. Great today and surely at least as good tomorrow. $15 and worth it anytime. 2000 Kreydenweiss, Riesling Clos Rebbeg: Showing so much more than the last bottle it is hard for me to believe it’s the same wine; deep, rich, honeyed-fruit scents; powerful flavors in the mouth, good cut and an endless finish. Fabulous texture. Really something special; $25 on release and I’d love to find some at that price. 1998 Salomon, Grüner Veltliner Kögl Reserve: Time to drink-up; some oxidative notes on the nose and palate but still full flavored and classically proportioned Grüner. $8 on sale; worth it but this wine will head south shortly so I would not buy it again. 2002 Chevillon, Bourgogne: Will never be confused with his premier cru wines but is head and shoulders better than most other Bourgogne’s; full, black fruit smells and flavors with focus. Good stuff; price unknown. 2000 Hamacher, Pinot Noir: Crackling, crisp, tongue-dancing wine with all sorts of red fruit nuance, good depth and a clean elegance that this producer seems to have cornered the market on. $40 on release; I’d pay that again. 2000 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Murto Vnyd.: Calmer wine than the preceding; texturally smooth, round and balanced; an understated Oregon pinot but a good one. $35 on release; I’d pay that again. Best, Jim

2001 Fourrier, Morey-St. Denis Clos Solon VV: This wine has ‘muscle tone;’ a soft first touch, smoothly textured skin and a deep, firm core; black fruit and chocolate on an expansive nose with hints of damp earth; the same clean flavors in an integrated, balanced and nicely complex palate; an almost etched minerality on the long finish brightens and makes the mouth water. Well resolved now but in no danger of fade. Terrific juice; price unknown. Thanks Bill. 2004 Terres Dorees (Brun), Fleurie: Ready to go (albeit young), beautifully aromatic and textured Fleurie; good fer ya’ and damn good with crab cakes. Delicious! About $19; I would so pay this again. 1999 Jaboulet, Cornas: It’s like Hermitage from Cornas; clean, focused, expressive and full of character but understated and holding something back – no, it’s not Allemand but it will do very nicely with cheese. Good wine, still showing young and seems to have a lot in reserve - hold. About $33 on sale; I’d pay that again. 2004 Drouhin, Beaujolais-Villages: Stuck in a city I’m not familiar with, the local liquor store has this; smells fresh and black fruity; tastes clean, black fruit, mineral and very light earth hints with good depth and structure; medium length, lip-smacking finish. Drouhin is reliable and this wine is excellent. $10, full retail; I’d pay that again. 2004 Drouhin, Chablis: Same city, different luck (and just when I thought I’d found reliability); green and almost stemmy on the nose; better on the palate but still that unripe character is there; not pleasant. $20; I would not pay that again. ($5 more and I get the 2002 V. Dauvissat, village wine; there is no comparison – the Dauvissat rocks!) 2004 Pepiere, Muscadet: Probably my fortieth bottle of this and it is every bit as refreshing and life-affirming as the first. $10; worth it and then some. 2004 de Villaine, Bourgogne La Fortune: Two days after opening (stoppered and left on the counter) this bottle is soft and short but certainly yummy; previous bottles have been equally delicious but harder to read. A tip of the cap to Mr. B-wood who commented that this was short and evidenced young vines; sure enough, young vines make good wine but not something to keep around long term. Drink now. $19; I’d certainly pay that again. 2004 Terres Dorees (Brun), Cote de Brouilly: ‘While back I said this was stemmy and under-ripe – David Lille (Chambers Street Wines) said it was pure and perfect – David was right and I wasn’t; beautiful nose of dark fruit and earth; lots of fruit in a crisp, focused delivery; pure, driven finish. A couple months in the cellar has brought this to a terrific place (as David predicted), full of life and verve. $20; I’d surely pay that again. Best, Jim

George, I'm getting a number of responses on other internet wine sites (WCWN, Wine Therapy, WLDG, eBob, etc.); you may wish to tune in and peruse those - some very interesting. If you do not have URL's PM me and I will give them to you. Best, Jim

I opened a magnum of 1997 Jaboulet, La Chapelle, several days ago. As the cork was coming out, I turned the corkscrew incorrectly and partially broke the cork. The immediate smell of TCA was noticeable. When I got it all the way out, I smelled the bottom (the part in contact with the wine) and it smelled strongly of TCA. I certainly anticipated that the wine would be corked. But both Diane and I tried the wine (she is very sensitive to cork taint) and neither of us could find any sign of TCA. Still, it worried me, as every other time I have had a question about the smell of the cork, the wine has been tainted. So I put a stopper in the bottle (not made of cork) and put it back on the shelf (room temp.). The following evening (24 hours later) still no sign of cork taint. The wine tastes as it always has (I have had this wine many times since release) and it shows young but not muted or disjointed in any fashion. The next evening (48 hours since opening) we had another glass and still no taint. Rather the wine has smoothed out and is showing less young (but still not anywhere near peak) than it did last night. This is a unique experience for me, as I can always tell TCA by smelling the freshly pulled cork. And any time I have had a question but have been unable to definitely state that a wine was corked, leaving it for a day brings the taint to the fore. Anybody else ever run into an occasion where the cork smelled strongly of taint but the wine was perfectly sound? Best, Jim

1995 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Le L d’Or: Notes of bleach, sea air, warm stones, white pepper and lime skin on the nose; similar on the palate with a richness borne of its age, good structure and some hints of decay, balanced and giving evidence of development; long, crisp finish with lots of nuance. I prefer the Clos des Allées from this house (a single vineyard, as opposed to L d’Or’s cuvée) but this is excellent and, at eleven years of age, just beginning to develop its secondary character. BTW, I recommend serving this in a Bordeaux stem (or something similar); it seems to come alive in a bigger bowl. Thanks Bill. 2001 Egon Müller, Riesling Kabinett Scharzhofberger: Very, very young but stuffed with mineral, cut, white fruit potential. A little time in the decanter rounds it out only slightly – hold this for at least another decade. $25 on release and I would pay that again. 2002 R. & V. Dauvissat, Chablis: Has shed some of its baby fat and is now the quintessential Chablis with a lemon-zest and mineral nose; a laser sharp but balanced palate and a very long finish, especially for a village wine. A wine of good cut, good depth, intensity and utterly of its place. $25 on release and I would certainly pay that again. 2001 Moreira, Douro Poeira: Made with five port grapes, fermented dry, unfortified, 13% alcohol; somewhat polished on the attack with strong berry and dark, pit fruit flavors, nicely balanced, structured and somewhat rustic on the finish. The slightest hint of spicy oak does not detract from an interesting, tannic and powerfully flavored wine. Good now; will hold. $30 on sale; I would pay that again. Dinner with friends: 2005 Merry Edwards, Sauvignon Blanc: Really nice; clean, crisp, full flavored and well balanced. Lovely juice. Price unknown. 2003 Copain, Pinot Noir Hein Vnyd.: That wonderful Anderson Valley crisp and crackling delivery with good depth and mostly black fruit flavors and aromas. Very good with and without food. Price unknown. 1999 Jasmin, Côte Rôtie (magnum): Elegant, of its place, showing young but more open than expected; superb with our dinners and, I think, everyone (several diverse palates) enjoyed it. $72 wholesale; I would pay that again. 2001 Merus, Cabernet Sauvignon: Not even remotely identifiable as cabernet – maybe shiraz from a hot climate. Tolerable when first opened, decent, albeit simple, after awhile – but this will never ring my bells. Price unknown. 1996 Dal Forno, Amarone: Big, only very slightly rasined, strongly flavored but without nuance or any identifiable character. 17.5% alcohol. Price unknown. Best, Jim

FWIW, the last bottle of Big House red and BH white I tasted (current releases) had more wood in them then previous vintages. I did not notice any difference in the BH pink. Best, Jim

It is easy for me to write notes about wines I have with dinner, just Diane and me, the meal and a bottle. More difficult are the times with guests in when the number of wines seems to increase exponentially and my powers of observation decrease in kind. Most difficult are those weekends when geeks gather and bring with them cellar treasures that, if tasted one at a time over the course of several meals, would engender notes that sound more like poems than comments – but when opened all together, one after another, well, . . . that’s just silly (not that it stops me . . .). This past weekend Diane and I traveled the 6 plus hours to Nashville, TN, where Shania Twain’s belly button is legend, no one lives in less than 6,000 square feet (at least not the houses I saw), and, where residents, John Blackwood and Trinka Dykes, opened their home to us and to His Most Illustrious and Honorable Vulgar Little Monkey and sweetie, Kathleen. Revelry and regrets; a weekend to (try to) remember. As intimated, any attempt at tasting notes is foolishness, but, for the sake of those who may wish information of the current state of certain vinous treasures, I offer these meager comments: 2000 Dauvissat, Preuses: amazing today, in no danger of fall-off. 1999 Hirtzberger, GV Honivogl: needs four hours in the decanter or ten years in the cellar but is world record juice. 2001 and 1998 Knoll, Riesling Schutt: 98 showing some botrytis and ready, IMO; 01 showing young and strong – hold. 1999 Juge, Cornas ‘C’: Yum, now. 1998 Allemand, Cornas Chaillot: needs time and shows hard but wonderful on promise alone. 2001 Fourrier, Gruenchers: a lovely young thing 1999 Dugat-Py, Les Evocelles: immense wine – hold and then hold longer. 1996 Martay, Corton-Charlemagne: the faintest hint of oxidation does not ruin a wine that is ready now and delicious. 1998 Conterno, Barolo: not ready 1991 Mascarello, Barolo: not remotely a classic but so damn interesting that I kept coming back to it – idiosyncratic. 1996 Le Pergola Torte: rockin’ today – don’t wait but give it one hour in the decanter. And so many more I lost my count and enough brain cells that memories are scant. There on the dyslexic movie reel in my brain is the pool, the deli, the grocery, the mornings of quiet, the evenings that weren’t, the fabulous food, the heartfelt belly-laughs, an exhibit of Pulitzer photos at the museum that brought me to tears, the rain that brought sweet sleep and, above all else, the ease of friends that wove it together in the fabric our lives, well lived. And so it goes . . . Best, Jim

Dinner with friends: With Napa cabbage salad with cashews: N/V Mont Marcal, Cava Extremarium: Very easy to drink, dry and a fine bead. Ideal with the dish. With grilled Mahi-mahi and lemon pasta: 2002 Marc Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets: A little oaky to begin with but this element morphed into a vanilla bean scent with time in the glass; citrus and nuts in a creamy but still bright palate, classy, integrated and balanced; plenty of length. Too early to open another but I’m glad we tasted this bottle. Very pretty wine and excellent with the meal. After-thought: 2000 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vielles Vignes: All vines older than 85 years; this is concentrated, almost brooding, black fruit driven gamay that is focused, balanced, structured and very, very deep. A remarkable wine and surely as fine as this appellation produces. Shows quite young. Another: With grilled veggies and an avocado and beet salad: 2000 Kreydenweiss, Pinot Gris Clos Rebberg: Gold/bronze color; reticent nose of resin and honey; cooked pears and some pineapple on the palate that is vinous, rich without being weighty, well balanced and spicy; medium length. The structure is all but hidden, the fruit ripe but restrained and the finish mouth-watering. A very nice rendition of a variety I seldom buy. Good accompaniment. (This is not a vineyard I am familiar with – anybody have any info.?) Best, Jim

After my long week on the road, Bob and Letta volunteered to come over, bring dinner and prepare it. Gratified is an understatement. With dinner prep.: 2003 Dumol, Chardonnay Chloe Vineyard: I strongly recommend another year or two in the cellar as this is coming along and developing (fairly rapidly) another personality – different today than its previous full throttle, oak driven style; more about its fruit and acid today. There is hope here. With grilled wild salmon, guinea hen, risotto, roasted beets, salad and “greasy” beans: 1982 Jaboulet, Hermitage La Chapelle: Past its prime but unmistakably Hermitage with its powerful meatiness that seems to influence both the nose and palate; iron and a little VA on the nose and, on the palate, its starting (but just) to come apart at the seams – drink now. A fine example of the AOC and full of nuance. 1996 Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras: Too young, even at a decade from bottling; powerful, primary, very Roumier and deserving of another decade. Hold. Best, Jim

Honestly, I don't buy his wines but am always happy to try a bottle someone else brings. For much the same reasons as you . . . Best, Jim

With a salad of orange slices, avocado, arugala and citrus vinaigrette with green olives: 2004 Girardin, Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres: Big, oaky, young and viscous; an interesting but ultimately, unsatisfying white burg. Price unknown. With crab chowder: The above wine. With squid salad and bruschetta with asparagus: 2004 Pepière, Muscadet: Precise, clean, authentic and beautifully balanced. Twice the wine of the preceding bottle for $10. I’d buy it again at that price and more. With fresh figs with honey, Manchego cheese and walnuts: 1990 Château Suduiraut, Sauternes (375 ml): Bronze color; rich and apricot on the nose; sweet, dried fruit on the palate with good acidic lift and no caramel notes; long, sweet finish. About $35; I’d buy it again at that price. Afterthought: 2001 Dom. Jean-Jacques Confuron, Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Fleurières: Powerful scents of black and red fruits, some earth; clear flavors that follow the nose without artifice or oak, balanced, concentrated, crisp and quite long. Showing young, not especially NSG but very clean and honest. A delight to drink on its own – I can only imagine how good it would be with food. Price unknown. Best, Jim

Dinner with George: With bruschetta: N/V Chandon, Blanc de Noirs Rosé: Light and easy to drink with a nice bead. No faults and good with the food. Price unknown. With sautéed mahi mahi , lemon pasta and peas with mushrooms: 1998 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Murto Vnyd.: Young, oaky, disjointed and not at all what I expected – not showing well and seems to have lost its Murto-ness. $30 on release; I should have drunk this sooner; I’d not buy it again at that price. With cheese and bread: 2000 Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan: I don’t drink much Bordeaux but this tasted like Graves and was clearly well-made. On sale locally at $33; I’d pay that again but only for a bottle or two. And another: With pasta and zucchini in light cream sauce: 1998 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Wahle Vnyd.: Much better than the Murto with dark plum aromas and flavors, fine but grippy tannins, much better integration and a brooding delivery. Probably still needs time in the cellar but showing nicely now. $30 on release; needs time and I’d buy it again at that price. With crispy cheese toasts: 1986 Dunn, Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mtn.: Substantial sediment; bottle bouquet and sour red fruit smells; still has some grip with delicate red fruit flavors and considerable complexity in the mouth, balanced, excellent development and very detailed; strong finish. Almost feminine and a very nice wine. Price unknown. Best, Jim

With spicy shrimp and veggies over rice: 2002 Leitz, Riesling Spätlese Rüdesheimer Kaisersteinfels: 10% alcohol, AP #24 079 019 03; flint, pear and cream soda aromas; the same on the lightweight palate adding notes of white grapes and a hint of RS, bright acids, a trifle lean at mid-palate; infinite finish. Very precise juice all about finesse. $25 on release; I’d pay that price again. And a lovely dinner with friends: With assorted goat cheeses: 1999 Nigl, Sauvignon Blanc: Clean, crisp, slightly grassy and loaded with cut; very much of its place and a very long finish. Good wine and worth its $24. I’d pay that again for this wine. With pasta and fresh chanterelles: 1996 Vogue, Chambolle-Musigny 1er: Very, very good wine with time in the decanter; crystalline black raspberry fruit with depth, nuance, mineral and solid black raspberry flavors, balanced, and, as it opens, greater integration than first noticed; long finish. A distinct sense of class. Clearly Chambolle and showing very well after three hours in the decanter. About $40 on release; I’d pay that again for this wine (although current pricing for this bottling in any vintage is off the charts). 2001 Ambroise, Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains: Over-oaked, candied, flamboyant and without any earmarks of the vineyard; not even close to the Chevillon wines from the same place. Price unknown but I would not buy it at any price. With sautéed halibut with chard and root veggies: 1997 Jobard, Meursault Genevrieres: Not profound but approaching it; deep, clean scents and flavors that are distinctly Meursault, nice complexity, good balance and still, this is slightly closed. Excellent, interest holding wine; price unknown. 2001 Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Callerets: Woody from the get go and that quality stays with the wine throughout. Simple, second rate chardonnay from anywhere and nothing to get excited about. Price unknown. After thought: 2001 Ogier, La Rosine: Clearly of its place, distinctly northern Rhône and every bit a delight to the senses. ‘Wonderful wine with character and less than $20, wholesale. I’d buy it at that price. Best, Jim

1998 Raptor Ridge, Pinot Noir Murto Vineyard: Expansive black cherry on the nose; the same on the palate with good depth, evident structure and little complexity. This has the very clear stamp of its place and is delicious drinking but will never be contemplative or challenging – nonetheless, a fine accompaniment to dinner. Bought on close-out at $9; I’d pay three times that price for it if I could find it again. 1998 Jadot, Moulin-à-Vent Chateau des Jacques: Decanted off substantial sediment; quite tannic and brooding with some black fruit and earth scents and flavors, good depth, a meaty texture and a long, albeit drying finish. Too early, I am certain, but I wonder if the fruit can stand this kind of tannin over the coming years. $20 on release and I would pay that price again. 2004 Dom. Saint Luc, Coteaux du Tricastin: A little bacon on the nose and palate accents solid red fruit and earth tones; smooth, clean, lightweight, 12.5% alcohol, and medium length. Very nice with pasta with caramelized onions, peas and fried sage. About $9 and I’d pay that again. 1999 J. J. Prüm, Riesling Spätlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr: So much better than a previous bottle (a month ago) that I suspect the prior bottle was off; great acidity influences both the nose and palate with clear, etched fruit and lively textures; perfect balance and a long, lasting finish. Unbelievably good with a salad of fresh arugala, figs, walnuts and Manchego cheese. $36 on release and I’d have to think twice before I spent that again. (Just as good on day two with the same salad; maybe better. I think I owe a tip of the cap to Marshall M. and David B. for their comments about this wine.) 2001 Hirtzberger, Riesling Singerriedel: Reticent nose with unripe pineapple, minerals and spice; powerful mineral and spice notes control the palate with vinous white fruit in the background; good acidity, complexity and balance but this is pretty closed and lacks the density (at present) I note in the 1999 vintage of this wine. ‘Needs time. Bought wholesale on release for $47; I’d buy it again at that price. 2002 Marc Angeli, Anjou La Lune: To quote Rahsaan: “A bubble of slightly orange fruit with slight RS, a friendly rustic mineral Anjou, nothing to complain about, although nothing to stir my emotions . . .” Ditto. About $24 on release; I’d not pay that again. Best, Jim

2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées VV: Rounding out nicely with good depth, balance and character. I drink a lot of this wine and have yet to have a bottle that was anything less than stellar. Bought on sale for $7; I’d buy it again at twice that price. N/V Nino Franco, Prosecco Rustico: Bone dry Prosecco; just what I’ve been looking for. Strong bead, citrus and earth flavors and well balanced. Good stuff. About $12; I’d buy it again at that price. 2002 Chidaine, Montlouis sur Loire Les Choisilles: Not together yet but the pieces are very nice and the chenin complexity is obvious. ‘Needs several years. About $16; I’d buy it again at that price. 2004 Álvaro Castro, Dão (Vinho Tinto): More complexity than expected from such an inexpensive wine with port-like flavors but none of the RS or alcohol of port; good body and balance; longer than expected. About $12; I’d buy it again at that price. 2002 R. & V. Dauvissat, Chablis: Precise, authentic, supple, ripe, textbook Chablis with perfect balance and great sustain. Damn good wine. About $25; I’d buy it again at that price. 2004 Voarick, Corton Clos du Roi: Very smoky (almost charred) aromas with young, stony red fruit; the same in the mouth although, as it opens, more fruit appears; breathtaking length – I can’t remember a young Burgundy with this kind of length. About $50; I’d not pay that again. 2002 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vieilles Vignes: Penetrating black fruit nose with slight hints of smoke and herb; very deep and refined with clean black fruit and mineral flavors, very slight herb accents and remarkable balance; structured and long. About as good as the appellation produces and about $20; I'd buy it again at that price or more. 2002 Tamellini, Soave Classico Anguane: Honeyed fruit on the nose and palate, depth, spice, balance, and a satin texture; a beautiful wine in its prime. About $16; I’d buy it again at that price. 2004 Dom de la Chanteleuserie, Bourgueil Cuvée Alouettes: For the first 15 minutes this is plum jam with light herb hints and great grip; thereafter it turns “green” to the point of overwhelming the fruit with the herbal, bell pepper elements and becomes a DNPIM wine. About $12; I’d not buy it again at any price. 2001 Kumeau River, Chardonnay (NZ): Burnt butterscotch and lumber yard on the nose and attack and then . . . it’s all about citrus and acidity and a nice clean mid-palate and finish. How does this happen? It’s two different wines and it stays that way throughout the evening. Weird. Price unknown but I would not buy it at any price. 2003 Dom D’Aupilhac, Coteaux du Languedoc Lou Maset: Grenache based, simple quaff with little structure and no complexity. Not bad or flawed but completely forgettable. About $10; I’d not buy it again at that price. 1999 Hamacher, Pinot Noir: Just beginning to open up; it has mellowed some so that the acidity is not as forward as it used to be but the concentration and tannins are just beginning to resolve; reminds me of a Les Amoureuses from Roumier; Chambolle aromatics, solid structure and good finesse despite its potency, but this also has an overlay of forward fruit more typical of domestic pinots. About $38 on release; I’d buy it again for that price or more. Best, Jim