Florida Jim

2000 Copain, Pinot Noir Hein Vineyard: Although Copain is in Santa Rosa, this vineyard is in the Anderson Valley. Cool from the cellar: black fruit, wintergreen, fresh picked herbs and turned earth aromas; crunchy, deep and racy black fruit with some earth tones on the palate; concentrated, fine tannins, viscous but plenty of cut - the acidity is such as to give a bit of tonic water element to the texture; medium length, slightly astringent finish. Shows young, primary and has the structure, fruit and acid to keep. As it warmed: the 14.2% alcohol intrudes as the palate muddies and the texture takes on an artificial feel that isn’t vinous to me. I did not catch any heat on the palate and finish but the influence of the alcohol is evident throughout. A quandary; do I keep other bottles of this to see what happens or drink them immediately (and cold) so they can’t get any worse? About $40 on release; I’d not buy it again. 1999 Paloma, Syrah: A medium weight, southern Rhône-ish nose and flavor profile with a supple texture but little nuance. This wine is 14.2% also but it seems to carry it without noticeable flaws. About $42 on release; I’d not buy it again at that price. 2005 Tegernseerhof, Rosé-Zweigelt Dürnsteiner: An 11.5% pink from the Wachau made by Franz Mittelbach; pale salmon; light cherry and stone scents; ripe but not sweet with light cherry flavors and some dissolved carbon dioxide (I think) which perks the palate, texturally smooth and viscous despite evident acidity; clean, mouthwatering finish. Perfect. About $11; I’d buy it again at that price. 2000 Nigl, Riesling Goldberg: A vintage that produced some nice, little rieslings in Austria but few great ones (the Steiner Hund being a notable exception) – this was massively acidic two years ago but has softened, balanced out and become expressive with a touch of RS. It will never me my favorite but it is world’s better than early on and clearly of its place. About $29 at release; I’d not buy it again at that price. 2002 Baumard, Savennières: Stony, smoky, floral, herb tea and lime with some simple syrup scents; viscous, integrated, plenty of cut, good balance and depth, incredible length and terrific flavor complexity. Good, dry chenin is such a unique wine; powerful yet subtle, rich and still bright; glorious, stimulating juice. About $20; I’d buy it again at that price. Best, Jim

With endive stuffed with smoked trout spread: 2002 Dom. de Chantemerle (Boudin), Chablis Fourchaume: Steely, citric and precise on the attack but rounds out at mid-palate with depth and nuance; lovely aromatics and a long, almost creamy finish. Not at peak but showing very well, indeed. About $26 on release; I’d buy it again for that price. 2004 Dom. Pepière, Muscadet: More generous than the Briords of the same vintage but still plenty of cut across the lime and mineral flavor profile; endless finish. About $10; I’d buy it again at that price. (Both of these wines matched the dish very well.) With an assortment of grilled vegetables with aioli: 2004 Dom. Grand Veneur, Côtes du Rhône Villages: As balanced a southern Rhône as I have had in some time; very clearly of its place with good complexity and sustain. An elegant and lovely, ‘little’ wine. Price unknown. 2002 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie: So pure and concentrated but still carries it’s floral, red fruit and granite aromatics; depth, complexity, and a suppleness in the mouth that is charming. What a great wine! About $15 on release: I’d buy it again at that price or more. Best, Jim

2004 Pepière, Muscadet Clos des Briords: A laser clear, integrated, still young, spicy wine that has oodles of cut but never gets too acidic; ripe, very focused fruit but stays light across the palate; it’s precise and balanced and clean in an almost supernatural way, and, it costs $13. As good as the appellation sees and surely has a long cellar life. I’d buy this at twice the price. Stellar juice! Mont Marçal, Cava Extremarium: This bottling includes some chardonnay along with the typical blend of xarel-lo, parellada and macabeo; large, aggressive bead but the head is maintained over the course of the evening; clean, citrus flavors, quite dry and crisp, some depth, good length. This is the top cuvee from this producer but I notice little difference from the fine Reserva of Marquis de Monastrel (which is half the price). About $18, I would not buy it again at that price; although a good wine, there are better QPR. 2004 Dom. les Fines Graves (Jacky Janodet), Chénas: The label says: “soil of stones, 40 year old vines, aged in oak;” the aromatics are high-toned with a pleasant fresh herb accent to solid and blossoming red fruit; gradually opened on the palate, to precise strawberry, herb and stone flavors with good complexity, excellent balance and a somewhat lacey delivery; delineated, dry flavors that last. No evident wood. Janodet’s, Moulin-a-Vent is a more typical purchase for me; they are long-lived and more structured, but this is a very good wine and may, with a year or more in the cellar, be fine. About $11 and I would buy it all day long at that price. 2004 de Villaine, Bourgogne La Fortune: Showing more complete than the ’04 Digoine at present but not as deep and concentrated as the ’04 Mercury – anybody know anything about this bottling; the website does not mention it? Elegant with sweet pinot fruit on both the nose and palate, nicely etched and very light hints of herb and earth; beautiful balance and a medium length finish. I think this is for drinking now although this producer has fooled me before as to longevity. About $19 and I would certainly buy it again at that price. 2004 Lageder, Pinot Bianco: Good, clean straightforward, pinot blanc with good acidty and nice balance. Price unknown. Good, summer drinking. 2003 Pra, Soave Monte Grande: Very good, texturally viscous wine with lots of layers and spice; good balance and sustain. Not on the level with Anselmi’s, Foscarino, or Pieropan’s, Calvarino, but solid, single vineyard, Soave. Price unknown. 1998 Hirsch, Riesling Gaisberg Alte Reben (magnum): Little development since release; still, very open nose of pineapple and mineral with good viscosity across the palate and flavors that echo the nose, decent depth, acidity and balance; slight RS, very long finish. Not at peak but showing well and certainly head and shoulders above the preceding two wines which were served at the same time. About $66 for the magnum on release; I’d pay that price again today. Best, Jim

There it is. What more could one ask? Best, Jim

1999 J.J. Prum, Riesling Spätlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr(AP12 00): It has taken seven years for the sulpher to blow off but it finally has leaving a fairly straightforward, sweet riesling that wasn’t worth the wait. Adequate with Thai food but little more and a touch too confected even with the spicy stuff. $36 on release; I’d not buy it again even at half the price. 2004 Terres Dorées (Brun), Fleurie: Stony, raspberry/strawberry, face powder aromatics; on the palate it’s filled with bright, crunchy fruit with herb/mineral nuance, good depth and a solid dose of joy; yummy now. So impressive, that I opened another bottle later in the week and it was every bit as tasty albeit showing a little younger. Very happy juice. About $19, on release; I’d buy this again at that price and then some. 1998 Salomon, Grüner Veltliner Reserve: This bottle showed slight oxidation but is still a full flavored, ripe and balanced wine with a layered flavor profile and a medium length finish. Probably time to drink them. About $9, on sale; I have more and if the next one shows the same oxidation, I would not buy it again at that price; if it’s clean, I definitely would. 1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Cuvée Mystére: I am told this is a blend of under-ripe and over-ripe grapes and, as much as I applaud the “use every part of the buffalo” mentality, it is ultimately unsuccessful. Both prune and acrid green elements obscure the fruit and any sense of place is completely lost. DNPIM. $30 on release and I would not buy it at any price. Best, Jim

And how some in the industry use these ratings and the consequences for the consumer. Each plays a role when hype/puffing is the issue. Best, Jim

Note that Jim's remarks refer newer California Cabs named above. We are talking about products of high price, not the run of the mill. I'll add my own experience that the more classic or "old-school" premium California Cabernets both are built to age (it's a signature feature) and do so well. The 2006 re-tasting reiterated this, but it was old news even in 1976. A popular 1976 California wine book (written before the Spurrier tasting) has a full-page photo of 1935, 1945, 1955, and 1965 California Cabernets, all currently (1976) in "mature good health," while a 1975 lab sample "promises to live in the great tradition." Max, Well said. You're right, I was refering to only the newer 'cult' additions (mainly because I thought the initial question in this thread had to do with value and price). Some of those old (70' and 80's) Phelps, Shafer, Freemark Abbey, etc. wines are still beautiful today and very well developed for their time in the cellar. I even have a few of the more recent (but not 'cultish') cabs. from the 1991 vintage that have shown a fairly glacial pace toward development and that I am quite pleased with. Unfortunately, the wines which now command such high prices, whether on release or at auction, are not made of the same stuff, IMO. It is an odd scenario; the highest price stuff is the shortest lived (obviously, a generalization). But what could be more perfect for the business-manager at these wineries; stock goes fast and for exhorbitant prices. I should think every person who owns one of these cult creations sends Mr. Parker a Christmas card - not that Parker has any ulterior motive or monetary interest in their success but the atmosphere that he has created (in the main) certainly makes such a business model feasible. Ahh, California . . . Best, Jim

John, Thanks for your thoughts; 'tis good to have a voice of unconventional wisdom in this thread. Nope, not mythic; economic. I can't tell you the number of winemakers whose goal in business is to score big Parker points (other reviewers, too, but his most). It influences, on every level, the decisions they make in producing their product. Please, understand that I am not saying they are wrong for doing so; they SELL wine and he can make or break them. I do think it is reasonable to call a spade a spade - hence, no myth, just business. That is the question isn't it? Maybe the guy at Enologix can tells us - but then, he wants $20K to do so. Maybe Michel Rolland? I don't know nor do I particularily care - I don't care for most of the wines that Parker scores the highest. I was talking about the ones I named but I'm sure a few others can be included (Beringer, certainly; Colgin, definely). Not Dunn but mainly because they are so damn tannic its hard to tell what grape they used for the first twenty years. And that is the difference I speak of. BTW, I'm not comparing old Napa to new Napa (if that was what this post was supposed to be about then . . . well, as Ms. Latella used to say, 'nevermind.'). I'm talking about whether the current high end wines are worth the money. IMO, they aren't. There are so many very fine wines of character from other places on the planet that I find the hutzpah to price a Harlan cab. at over $200, bordering on the absurd. Thus my initial post. Best, Jim

J, I have not read any of the pieces/threads about the revisiting of the "Judgment." While such events may have a good deal of commercial significance to the 'winners' and 'losers,' I find little use in them. However, when CA wines were just heating up, I got on every big name mailing list there was (Harlan, Screaming Eagle, Maya, Bryant, Araujo, Kistler, etc.) and bought maximum allocations each year. For awhile, I liked the wines but grew tired of them. Fortunately, at the time, the delta between purchase price and auction price was large enough to make selling them a very viable option. These days that delta has shrunk. This afforded me the chance to try these wines over the last decade at different times during their aging. I also have significant ties to the CA wine community and, through the generosity of others, continue to have such chances. My thoughts (admittedly controversial) are these: 1) Most of these wines were made to impress Robert Parker. He is the driving force behind commercial sales of high-priced wine and every CA high-end winery and winemaker is acutely aware of that. Recently, Don Bryant was quoted saying that it was his mission to make '100 point wines.' 2) Most of these wines are made to be drunk sooner rather than later. The style is big, impressive fruit with substantial oak and lots of creamy textures - IMO, the antithesis of good wine but certainly saleable to others, especially with Parker's approval. 3) They don't age well. I'm not saying they die or fade but they simply do not develop in the cellar. And they seldom show any real sense of place. 4) They have no real individual character. One pretty much, tastes like the other and each vintage pretty much tastes like the last one. I remember tasting through a vertical of Dalla Valle, Maya, from 1991 through 1999 and thinking that, absent seeing the bottle, I could not tell one from the other. This may be what the winemaker is shooting for; reliable, consistent wines that do not stray from the Parker mold, but it leaves wines that are easily dismissed and relatively boring. 5) The prices are stupid. Parker himself has noted that the market for such wines is extremely narrow and I would go so far as to say that it may be driven by factors other than perceived quality (vanity, resale, etc.). Some will say that I am simply dissing Parker with these comments; quite the contrary. These wineries sell every bottle and make vast sums of money. Parker sells wine, regardless of the fact that he takes no advertising. And, for those in the industry, he is not only the standard but a boon. But for me, this predeliction creates a product that is as narrow as its consumer base and a style that is unexciting and not remotely worth the price. But one man's poison is another man's meat - viva la difference! Best, Jim

Some goodies from the cellar . . . 1999 Nigl, Riesling Hochäcker: Several years ago, I visited Maroon Bells, a protected area just outside of Snowmass, CO. It was early morning; hundreds of rivulets wound down through the field of wild flowers that completely surrounded the dead calm lake below, immaculate. Reddish mountains hovered above. It was cold, you could smell the mountain flowers and water, and, everything was silent and crystal clear. This wine evokes those memories; alpine flowers, warming stones, cascading water and spice scents; silken textures and a clean, somewhat peppery palate that lasts. It is vinous, balanced, 13% alcohol and I can’t stop smelling it. I’m guessing it’s in its infancy. $18 on release; I’d buy it again at that price or higher. 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Albéric Bouvet: Continues to develop as a fine example of the northern Rhône with outstanding complexity, character and balance, captivating aromatics and a ripe, layered palate and finish that keep me coming back. Superb now and showing nothing to suggest it will fade. $9, on sale several years ago; I’d buy it again at twice the price. 1999 Bruno Clavelier, Vosne-Romanée Les Beau Monts VV: Closed at first but opens gradually to a structured, dark, deep, spicy wine that is not quite of one piece but has such captivating flavors that I can’t leave it alone. More density than a recent 99 Chevillon, Caignots, but not as integrated and developed. A great wine that needs another five years in the cellar, at least. $60 on release; I’d buy one or two at that price, funds permitting. 2002 Dönnhoff, Riesling (Qba): Bright, crisp, cherrystone and pineapple scents and flavors with a stony minerality underlying and a kiss of sweetness. Good complexity, balance and sustain. ‘Hard to beat for the price. $18 on release; I’d buy it again at that price. 1999 Juge, Cornas Cuvée C: Violets, olives, herbs, wood ash and mixed, bright red fruit – all woven together as whole-cloth; lightweight in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose, complexity, elegance, very fine and smooth tannins, juicy fruit, bright acidity, great balance and good sustain. Took a while to open – once it did, exquisite, integrated Cornas with some of the most layered and alluring aromatics one could imagine. $35, purchased recently; I’d buy this again at that price. Best, Jim

Mark turns 50 . . . Hello: N/V Krug, Champagne: Nice but not up to the hype/price. With paella: 1991 Jayer-Gilles, Echézeaux (magnum): Outstanding nose with sauvage character and mushroom, red fruit scents; a little thin on the palate but pure and clean, well balanced and distinctive; medium finish. 1999 Chevillon, Nuits-Saint-Georges Chaignots: Showing at full song with wonderful fruit and truffle aromas; deep, rich, clean fruit and earth flavors and remarkable length. I did not expect this to be so open and generous but it was everything one could ask of the terroir. 2004 Matinsancho, Rueda: The best match with the dish and surely the best verdejo I have ever tasted. Exceptional. 2004 Dom. Saint Luc, Coteaux du Tricastin: Light and easy to drink with good southern Rhone character and a clean delivery. Chartreux: I had never tasted this before but I will again; one of the most extraordinary gustatory experiences of my life. But at 54% alcohol, a little goes a long way. Unforgettable. Best, Jim

2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées: Tight at first and a bit angry but it opens beautifully with air to become supple, layered and long. Served to a friend who had never had it before and she was very enthusiastic – me too. Delicious today and many tomorrows . . . 1998 Thomas, Pinot Noir Complex, character driven, individual, ripe, mostly red fruit and with excellent length; just coming into its own and that is a very good place. Also needed a little air to open up. 2000 Christoffel, Ürziger Würzgarten, Riesling Kabinett (06 01): Served with spicy food, this is excellent counter-point; not too sweet, plenty of fruit and a nice underlying minerality. Not a world record wine but fun and good accompaniment. 2005 Elyse, Rosé: 12.9% alcohol, bone dry, full flavored and slightly stony; what more can one ask of pink wine? 1999 Bizot, Echezeaux (375 ml): Allspice and sauvage elements on the nose with solid, Burgundian pinot aromas; flavors follow the nose with layers and good integration, not especially fleshy but plenty of concentration and good balance; medium length finish. ‘Shows its pedigree but needs some more cellar time. 2004 Descendientes de Palacios, Bierzo Pétalos: This wine is starting to close down as it shows lots of tannin and little fruit for the first hour its open; thereafter, it starts to balance out but never comes back to full song, which, is where it was only three months ago. Hold. Best, Jim

2003 Calamity, Cabernet Sauvignon: 13.8% alcohol from Napa Valley; I enjoyed the “Red Wine” from this producer (see recent note below *) but this is off the charts; very expansive and complex aromatics with cassis, blackberry, mineral, and fresh herbs (no oak odors at all); very pure and clean across the palate with flavors that follow the nose, excellent complexity, a sense of restraint but also of depth and integration, perfect balance, satin textures, bright acidity that never sticks out and again, no overt oak flavors; excellent length with immaculate flavors. Not even a hint of over-extraction or manipulation, no noticeable oak, no milk-shake like textures – just pure, clean, delineated, fresh fruit with mineral and herb hints. The best domestic cabernet sauvignon in recent memory and all the better for its $25 price tag. Available only in FL at Wine Warehouses throughout the state. To think that cabernet can be this natural and distinctive; I had all but given up hope. Best, Jim * 2003 Calamity, Napa Valley Red Wine: Mostly cabernet sauvignon (I’m told – please, correct me if I’m wrong) and 14.1% alcohol; laser pure cassis and blackberries on the nose, crisp, clean with very light oak and some minerality; bright flavors follow the nose with clarity and depth, excellent acidity, no signs of over-extraction and just a hint of oak sweetness, nice complexity and good balance; a bright, flavorful (with a little bitter black raspberry), mouth-watering finish without any hint of heat. Gives the impression of having some cabernet franc in the mix. (I’m told Cathy Corison has a hand in this; that would not surprise me in the least – she is talented.) This is neither a pretender to Bordeaux nor to most of the left-coast cabs. I’ve tasted; rather, it is its own animal, although faintly reminiscent of the Loire. Certainly, it has a shelf life but it’s delicious now. About $20.

Thanks for the kind words. If you happen to try any of these, I'd be curious as to your thoughts. I don't think I can fill in the blank, though. My first thought is "syrah from where?" But what I really mean is, I don't think the comparison works - not even for zinfandel. I've tasted some very elegant, pure zins. and then there's Turley and that ilk. So different one wonders if the same grape was used. Likewise syrah. And even Hendrix had his slow songs - Rainy day, dream away . . . Best, Jim

What??? Best, Jim

High toned aromatics and bright in the mouth. Best, Jim

N/V Bottex, Vin du Bugey-Cerdon La Cueille: 8%, pink bubbly, with a fine bead, a fresh fruit taste and made to be drunk ice cold on a hot day – for one glass – the second glass is too sweet. $15, from Kermit Lynch. 2004 Quinta do Ameal, Vinho Verde Loureiro: Still wine from the loureiro grape at 11.5% alcohol; powerfully scented with aromas of stones, almonds and apples; vinous, bone dry, very slightly bitter, perfectly balanced and quite long. Not what I am used to with vinho verde but certainly a distinctive, savory and character driven wine. Worth every nickel at $10. European Cellars imports. 2004 de Villaine, Bourgogne La Fortune: Always, this wine plays in the treble register – it has notes in the bass and mid-range but its delineation and aromatics take it ‘up a notch;’ fantastic with rare, grilled, wild salmon. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit and about $19. 2004 Dom Saint Luc, Coteaux du Tricastin: My third or fourth bottle of this beautiful, full-flavored but utterly weightless wine; a fine southern Rhone – woven of lace. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit, and, wait for it . . . about $9. Stealing, my friends; stealing! Best, Jim

2004 de Villaine, Bouzeron: I am told this aligoté; whatever, its pleasant on the nose but tastes of wet grass and perm solution which obscures anything else that may (or may not) be going on. No, thank you. About $15. 2002 Alain Demon, Côte Roannaise Resérve La Perrière: This wine is made from 50-100 year old gamay vines – and it shows it. Plum, potpourri and cherry-vanilla on the nose with similar flavors that are deep and pure, excellent concentration and balance, and a stony, minerality that underlies but never intrudes. Fine grained tannins, velvet textures, bright acidity, good character and, IMO, nothin’ but net. About $10. 2004 Dom. Saint Luc, Coteaux du Tricastin: 12.5% alcohol; approximately 30% grenache, 70% syrah with a “pinch” of bourboulenc and viognier; bright and fresh on the nose, clean and ripe Rhone aromatics; balanced, elegant and weightless in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose, very harmonious; medium finish. Beautiful with grilled chicken and grilled veggies. About $9. 2004 Argiolas, Vermentino di Sardegna Costamolino: Although this wine is well-made and ripe it has an ever-present resinous aroma and flavor that I can’t quite get past; it’s also viscous and slightly peppery on the finish. Good wine, but not for me. About $10. Porcine aviation: On the taxi-way . . . 2004 Argiolas, Isola dei Nuraghi Costera: Flamboyant almost candied nose when first opened but it becomes more brooding and shades toward black fruit with air; full throttle flavors of black fruit with some earth, substantial tannin making the texture a bit rustic, mouth filling and longer than expected. Even at $12, I’m not running to the store, but I would be happy to drink this again. It’s made of cannonau, alias, grenache. Who’d a thunk? Airborne . . . 2003 Calamity, Napa Valley Red Wine: Mostly cabernet sauvignon (I’m told – please, correct me if I’m wrong) and 14.1% alcohol; laser pure cassis and blackberries on the nose, crisp, clean with very light oak and some minerality; bright flavors follow the nose with clarity and depth, excellent acidity, no signs of over-extraction and just a hint of oak sweetness, nice complexity and good balance; a bright, flavorful (with a little bitter black raspberry), mouth-watering finish without any hint of heat. Gives the impression of having some cabernet franc in the mix. (I’m told Cathy Corison has a hand in this; that would not surprise me in the least – she is talented.) This is neither a pretender to Bordeaux nor to most of the left-coast cabs. I’ve tasted; rather, it is its own animal, although faintly reminiscent of the Loire. Certainly, it has a shelf life but it’s delicious now. About $20. And yes, I bought this bottle and will probably buy a couple more; maybe even a case. Never say never . . . Best, Jim

2004 de Villaine, Côte Chalonnaise, Bouzeron La Fortune: A Bourgogne that is 12.5% alcohol, costs $18 – and is worth twice the price. Authentic, complex, ripe and bright; one of the best under $20 pinots I have tasted. And, its Burgundy! Best, Jim

Mine, too. 2004 Tua Rita, Rosso di Notri: A really good sangiovese blend from a producer that makes some very pricey stuff; structured, balanced, moderate alcohols, little manipulation and a very fine delivery and finish. About $18. 2002 V. Dauvissat, Chablis Lemon oil and river stones on the nose with nice hints at complexity; the same on the palate with medium weight and fine acidity; good sustain. A very good village wine that has come to a better place since release. About $25. 2002 Barthod, Bourgogne Les Bons Bârtons: This wine has come a very long way since release; it is now more structured and linear without loss of depth or character; solid fruit from nose to finish with lots of secondary development just getting started. A really superb Bourgogne that is not really up to speed yet. About $22. 2004 de Villaine, Côte Chalonnaise Bourgogne La Digoine: Gives the impression of a whole cluster fermentation with some herbal/green elements on the nose; very solid and focused fruit on the palate with just a hint of herb, and, a medium length, very balanced finish. Clearly youthful and not showing all that it has – yet still provocative and excellent with dinner. About $25. Best, Jim

2004 Chapoutier, Tavel Rosé Beaurevoir: Very nice; bone dry, excellent balance, clean, flavorful and even some complexity. It does carry 13.5% alcohol (but doesn’t show it) where I’d rather see at least a point lower and the only reason I quibble about such things is that it costs $22. And for that kind of money, I’ll look elsewhere for exactly what I want. 2003 Château La Roque, Pic Saint Loup: Although the label does not say, I assume this is the Cuvée Classique (not the Cupa Numismae), which is made of 25% syrah, 45% Grenache and 35% mourvèdre. Garrigue and dark fruit on the nose with the same on the palate, noticeable but fine tannins and a worsted texture, good balance and sustain. A well-integrated wine with character and it does not seem to suffer from the vintage’s heat difficulties (13.5%). At $12, something I will buy again. Thanks Claude. N/V Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley Brut (Sparkling): Crisp, clean, exuberant bead and just the slightest hint of RS. Thirst-quenching. About $16. 2003 Dom. du Joncier, Lirac: Restrained on the nose and palate with a silken texture, very fine tannins and solid, sweet fruit in the mouth that is both elegant and balanced. Not quite as impressive as the last bottle (two weeks ago) but still good wine. About $12. 2004 Dom. de la Janasse, VdP Principaté D’Orange Terre de Bussière: As mentioned in a recent note, a very well-honed and balanced wine that is worth every penny of its $12, asking price. Best, Jim

2002 Chanson, Beaune Clos-des-Mouches: Young, tight and not especially concentrated; with time, some of the vineyard and fruit shows but this is not even in the same league as Drouhin’s Mouches. And at $55, it has no QPR. 2000 Chat. Listran, Médoc Cuvée Prestige: My dog used to run in a pasture adjacent to our house and eat cow dung – this smells like her breath after such a run, but it also has some ripe cassis and blackberry tones; shows young in the mouth with everything not quite together, even so, there’s solid black fruit, spice and earth elements, a balanced structure and a certain elegance to it all; medium finish. Identifable as Bordeaux and reasonable at $10. 2000 J.J. Christoffel, Riesling Kabinett Ürziger Würzgarten: Joyous juice! Clean, stony, fruit scents and flavors, bright in the mouth, lovely balance, charming in every aspect. And at 7.5% alcohol, lunch is the perfect time to have a glass or two. I think this producer bottles fun as well as wine. Close-out price, $12. 2004 Dom. Saint Luc, Coteaux du Tricastin: Charming, lightweight, ready to drink immediately, nicely balanced southern Rhône that smells inviting, tastes fresh, bright and carries only 12.5% alcohol but is entirely ripe. A lovely “little” wine. About $9. 2004 Dom. Saint Luc, Côtes do Rhône Villages: Hard to distinguish from the forgoing wine save for an extra half point of alcohol which is reflected in a slightly rounder, softer mouth feel. If I have to choose, I like the Tricastin but both are ready to go and very pleasant. About $10. Best, Jim

With a big salad and toast: 2002 Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner Terrassen: Light honey, fresh pineapple, river stones and a wisp of smoke on the nose; the same on the palate with the emphasis on bright fruit and cleansing acidity; long, crisp finish. Perhaps, a little young but still mighty tasty. And a no-brainer at $8, on sale. With grilled pork chops and rice with mushrooms and peas: 2000 Michele Satta, Cavaliere: An IGT sangiovese from Tuscany; cocoa and dusty red fruit on the nose (very much like nebbiolo); clear and concentrated fruit and cocoa on the palate with some nuance, good balance and nice sustain. No overt oak or manipulation. Youthful today but showing promise. About $20. With chicken and mushroom sauté: 2002 V. Dauvissat, Chablis: Lemon oil, chilies, warm stones and spiced apples on the nose – nicely integrated; viscous, clean and spicy in the mouth with vivid flavors that follow the nose, a softness of fruit off-set by mouthwatering acidity; and, a crisp, flavorful finish. Despite some round edges, there is a refreshing tension in this clearly authentic Chablis. A beautifully balanced and complex wine with at least a several year shelf-life. About $25. (BTW, I drank this out of syrah stems and it had all the concentration and intensity needed to fill the bowl.) With cheese: 2004 Mustigillo, Mestizage: Mainly bobal but mixed with syrah, tempranillo, merlot, cab. sauvignon and grenache; disjointed upon opening but integrated gradually over the course of several hours, big assed, 14%, rich wine that isn’t overdone but is coming close (maybe some time in bottle will help); smells of black fruit and spice, tastes about the same with lots of structure and intensity. Serve with hearty fare or strong cheese; about $12. Best, Jim

Razzar, I am not all that familiar with the producer but, from folks who are, I hear that they do good work every vintage, even when the going gets tough like in 2003. At that price, words to remember. Best, Jim

With grilled veggies, grilled shrimp, grilled chicken, sliced tomatoes and oven fries, the following wines were served: 2002 Tamellini, Soave Classico Anguane: Expansive aromatics of spicy pears and hints of citrus with an undertone of stone; authentic in the mouth with green chili hints to flavors that follow the nose with depth and concentration; long, powerfully flavored finish. A lively, complex and stimulating wine full of character. 2004 Vincent Delaporte, Sancerre Chavignol: Young but classic Chavignol with a hint of perm solution on the nose, great textures and cut in the mouth and a solid finish. Although, Sancerre is not a personal favorite, this was very well executed. 2004 Dom. de la Janasse, VdP Principaté D’Orange Terre de Bussière: A reticent yet attractive nose of the southern Rhône; very fine and precise in the mouth with perfect balance and complexity, satin textures and extremely fine tannins that all but disappear; a long, complex finish. So harmonious, balancing the best of rusticity with the best of refinement. A great experience for $12, and one I will buy a lot more of. 1990 Silver Oak, Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley: Too much dilly American oak for me but this wine is chocked full of expressive fruit and herb tones, well balanced and resolved, and, it does not dry out on the finish. Definitely not my style, but for those more wood tolerant than I, this is the wine for your next steak. Best, Jim