Florida Jim

Guests from the north came to enjoy our 70 degree days and some of Diane’s cooking. First: Salomon spread with crackers Edamame beans N/V Jean Milan, Champagne Blanc de Blancs Spéciale: Crisp, clean, lively and a long lasting bead, good acidity. Perfect with the salmon spread and good with the beans. Second: Broccoli rabe with white beans and olives with crusty bread with EVOO 1998 Salomon, Gruner Veltliner Reserve: One of my favorite producers for their consistency and balance; great harmony from first sniff to clean finish. Outstanding with the dish. Third: Pasta with gorgonzola and sautéed wild mushrooms: 2001 Quinto do Infantado, Douro: Decanted several hours but still quite oaky; until one has a bite of the pasta and the wood just disappears. The food saves the wine. Last: Assorted cheeses: 1995 Hoffstätter, Pinot Nero Mazon: Mature, resolved pinot with cheese is such an easy combination; especially when it also has character. Best, Jim

A recent bottle opened with friends was a huge surprise and about as good a domestic cabernet as I can remember. Best, Jim

No. Better. Best, Jim

Dear Ivan, Go here: http://astorwine.com/ Put the word nouveau in the search engine and watch as the 2005 Terres Dorees, Beau. Nouveau comes up at $6.98/bottle. Buy it. If it does not please, I will buy what you don't want. Without question the finest Nouveau I have tasted and I like that price. Best, Jim

You're welcome - delighted to hear it. Best, Jim

Not for alll the tea in . . . Mary, I will make wine, whether it winds-up being in CA or NC is still up in the air. But reality TV and the demands placed upon the 'contestants' is so far from who and what I am as to be repulsive. I know that, whoever does win the contest, the publicity they receive will be extraordinary - and as tempting as that might be, my future lies along less well traveled paths. You've seen the kind of wine I like; I'm not one of the folks that will 'play well' on such a show. Besides, I'm not all that photogenic and I have my curmudgeonly moments. And I don't live by anybody else's script. To whomever wins, I say good luck. And to whomever doesn't play, I say, what are you doing for dinner? Best, Jim

2004 Artazuri, Rosé: This Spanish wine from Navarra is 13% alcohol and 100% yummy. Profound; nope, great; nope, age-wworthy; no chance, but, delicious with lunch; oh yeah! Pleasant strawberry and cherry aromas; fruit sweet on the palate with flavors that follow the nose in an integrated, balanced, juicy wine; medium length, balanced finish. ‘Went back and bought a case at $7 a bottle, a no-brainer. (Perhaps, the only use of grenacha/grenache for which I am pleased.) 2004 Mustiguillo, Mestizaje: A field blend that emphasizes the bobal grape. The entry level red from this producer and an impressive one with excellent structure and ripe fruit that is nicely concentrated and balanced. Bobal is supposed to have good aging potential so I will probably put a couple of these in the cellar just to see what happens. Good now with full-flavored food. About $12. 1995 Hofstätter, Pinot Nero Mazon: Another trip to the Italian market and I found an entire case of this marked down to $7 a bottle; when bought buy the case (which I did) take an additional 10% off. Fortunately, it’s worth it with smooth textures, mature flavors and a totally resolved structure. What a find! Best, Jim

2004 Marramiero, Trebbiano D’Abruzzo Anima: With a ripeness level that reminds me of Valentini’s wine (sans oak), this is both refined and powerful with excellent depth of flavor, the beginnings of complexity and mouth-watering acidity. Beautifully balanced, varietally correct and filled with character and nuance, one can almost envision the Adriatic. $14; imported by Vinifera Imports. ‘Killer accompaniment to linguini with white clam sauce. 2003 Rubens, Tempranillo: Industrial, candied, vintage affected, processed wine-food. Earlier vintages of this have been pleasant, albeit simple, wines that go well with food and taste like the variety. But this is one of the worst examples of what this vintage can be. Not worth the $7. 2001 Pinoso, Laderas de El Sequé: More earth driven than fruit driven with a dusty texture and some complexity. Probably better last year but good with wild mushroom pizza, picking up some of the musky tones of the mushrooms very nicely. Solid wine for $9. Best, Jim

Every once and awhile, the local Italian market has a sale on odd lots; the prices are very low and, if you buy a case, you get an additional 10% off. The prices stated below are the sale prices absent case discount – so, you can see that by buying several cases, the price is, well, hard to believe. 2001 Quinta do Infantado, Douro: Initially, this comes across much like the Poiera I bought a case of about a year ago; the same grapes as used in port but done for the table (12.5% alcohol). But this lacks the concentration of the Poiera and the American oak comes out with a distinct lumber note and a bit of sourness. The maker made a mistake – and it’s as simple as that; because what is here didn’t deserve this kind of treatment. $7. 1995 J. Hofstätter, Pinot Nero Mazon: This pinot from the Alto Adige is a find; relatively straight-forward nose of milk chocolate with a little earth and black fruit; the same on the palate that is velvety textured, perfectly balanced and delivers a mouth-feel that is second to none, fully resolved, decent depth; moderate finish. Not a complex wine but so charming and elegant in the mouth and not a hint of wood anywhere. $7. 2002 Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner, Terrassen: Reticent nose of glazed fruit; medium body and very integrated flavors of fruit, mineral and herb in a lovely textured and precise delivery; long, bright finish. 12% alcohol and yet viscous and smooth; a lovely drop. $8. Best, Jim

Ah yes, the Mickey Gilley syndrome. Best, Jim

Well, I give you points for trying . . . no, no, I don't believe in points. Anyway, in answer to your question, I do not read any wine publications (other than Practical Winery and Vineyard), at least none that rate wine. I made the decision to cut all those out several years ago and am much happier without the incessant hype. I do go to tastings but do not have much faith in them. I find that, since I only drink wine with food, tasting it without, in short sips and against other wines is not a very reliable way to pick dinner winners (hey, I like that . . .). I listen to personal recommendations from those who know my palate or who enjoy the same style of wines I do but am pretty selective about trying such wines. Most of my buying decisions are based upon a simple behavior; go to the wine store (or order from the wine store), bring it home and taste it with dinner. If I like it and it fits in the budget, buy more. If I don't, repeat the behavior. This is a much slower process that those other ones you name but I have come to realize that it is the only one that serves me well. And that's all the sense you're getting out of me today. Best, Jim

My badge is openly and intangibly prioritized so that my emotional path follows branded adventures. I eschew lushes, too and never drink wine at lunch (hic). Best, Jim

2000 Dom. Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru: Starts off shy on the nose and muddy on the palate with little fruit and a somewhat dirty taste; after about an hour morphs into an approachable, fruit-sweet, complex and elegant wine with none of the power of the Corton I am used to but with finesse and interest. I seldom buy Louis Latour wines but a discount price is a powerful temptation and, in this case, made for a good (but not grand cru) bottle. An hour’s airing made all the difference. 2002 Piccini, Chianti Classico Solco: Smells and flavors that wonder back and forth between chocolate and damp earth with lots of red fruit and some mineral tones; good balance and a certain elegance. Not for holding long term but, for now, at $9, oh yeah! 2003 Dom. Tempier, Bandol: This is the regular bottling. Expansive dark fruit and earth nose with hints of asphalt and baker’s chocolate; full bodied and decidedly tannic but also ample fruit concentration and solid acids make for one powerful (and balanced) mouthful of wine, distinctive, and intense; long, dusty finish. There may have been a moment or two when I detected a bit too much alcohol but it was gone in a second; lost in the viscosity and depth of this juice. I have no idea if it will age but I also could care less; satisfying today and I can’t wait to open another. Best, Jim

"The Wines of Germany" by Stephen Brook, publ. 2003 ISBN 1 84000 791 5, and, "The Wines of Austria" by Philipp Blom, publ. 2000, ISBN 0 571 19533 4. These books are far from definitive but they are good over-views and published in English. Best, Jim

2004 Clos Roche Blanche, Pineau D’Aunis Touraine: A rosé that has light red fruit, stone and vegetal aromas; the same on the palate which gives the impression that it’s some concoction Celestial Seasons™ might have thought up; sour beer finish. Not my style of wine. 2004 Chateau de Trinquevedel, Tavel: This is perfectly dry but with 14.5% alcohol, it’s some caricature of rosé; very dark cherry red, pleasantly sweet on the nose, very big across the palate. Once was enough. 2004 Dom. Ogereau, Rosé de Loire: Crisp, clean, pungent aromatics with ripe red fruit on both the nose and palate, excellent intensity and an absolutely bone dry finish. Another glass, please. 2004 B. Morey, Bourgogne Blanc: An acid driven, fairly bland carrier for good French oak. I took the bottles I bought, back. 2001 Dom. La Garrigue, Vacqueyras: Rich with a worsted texture, salty minerality, meat and fruit flavors, excellent concentration and balance and showing very well with meat loaf and mashed potatoes. 2003 Laderas de Pinoso, Alicante Viñedos de El Sequé: Vibrant fruit on the nose and palate, no overt wood, texturally rich, nicely balanced and carries good length. All for $8, full retail. Best, Jim

Sort of reminds me of the Enologix article about standardizing the whole damn thing to suit Parker's taste. May they rot in hell! Best, Jim

2001 Jermann, Vintage Tunina: A blend of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, malvasia, picolit and ribolla, with the grapes actually vinified together. This smells of bleach, and honeyed fresh fruit; tastes a lot like good Soave, has excellent concentration and is well-balanced; medium length finish. Lovely wine, with or without food. With friends over for dinner we tried two bottles of the Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Alberic Bouvet:; the 1999 and 2001 vintages. This was my first side-by-side for these two and there is a substantial difference. The ‘99 has more depth, fruit, structure and overall class. Both are characteristic Crozes and good drinking, but ’01 isn’t really in the same league. Still, nice to try them this way. 2004 Quenard, Vin de Savoie Chignin: Someone told me this wine was just made to pair with roast turkey . . . and they were right. Floral and red fruity with talc accents on the nose; pretty much the same across the palate with sufficient acidity to keep it bright and almost no tannins; medium finish. Just an ideal wine with the bird and another good example of mondeuse; a grape I’m learning to enjoy. 2004 Domaine de la Fruitière, Jardin de la Fruitière: An interesting blend of 45% chardonnay, 45% melon, 5% folle blanche and 5% sauvignon gris; unripe pear, alpine flowers and stones on the nose; silky texture in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose and add citrus pith and white pepper flavors, lots of brightness from the melon and good intensity; surprisingly long, mouth-watering finish. ‘Charming wine with a variety of uses and a very tolerable $7, full retail. 2002 Casa Brina, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato: Similar to the mondeuse noted above on both the nose and palate with an odd vegetal note on the palate, less focus and intensity. Not up to previous vintages of this wine which were quite appealing. N/V Jean Milan, Champagne: (I did not catch if it had any other designation but this is the cheapest of the Milan line-up); clean, crisp and balanced with an exuberant bead and a nice finish. One of my favorite non-vintage bubblies. Best, Jim

I can accept the fact that I was a bad boy this year . . . I just wish I could remember the details. Christmas eve: With a chicken roasting in the oven, Diane and I opened a 1990, Krug; oxidized. Then with dinner, the 1999 S. Esmonin, Clos St. Jacques was corked. Not to be denied, we tried a 1999 Chevillon, Les Chaignots; corked. We finally wound up with a sound bottle of the 2001 Giacosa, Nebbiolo D’Alba, which was extra delicious. On second thought, maybe it was Diane who was a bad girl? Whatever, Merry Christmas to all and special regards to Bruno Giacosa. Best, Jim

I had a chance to help a friend with crush; everything from pruning, brix readings, picking, sorting, de-stemming, cold soak, punch-down, fermentation, yeast inoculation, pump-over, topping off, tasting and all things in between. It was a very fast learning curve and probably set-the-hook for my future occupation – I can do that. I learned that some California chardonnay is worth drinking; even buying. The 2003 Aubert, Ritchie Vineyard and the 2003 DuMol, chloe were the wines that turned me around. Maybe next I’ll find a zinfandel I love! I had a chance to taste some refosco (grape variety) wines (also known as mondeuse in France) and found them falling somewhere between gamay and pinot noir in weight with very interesting berry flavors. I think I like the Italian versions better but more experiments are needed. Daniel Rogov, noted wine critic and writer, and I got acquainted on-line; essentially, we argued. But in a civil and respectful way, befitting the gentleman he is and the one I want to be. He believes in awarding points to wines based on objective standards that he finds quantifiable in his tastings. I disagree. We had a fairly long on-line discussion about it. Of course, the conclusion is unresolved. But the best thing that came of it was his final comment that he wished we lived closer together so that we could meet at a café or coffee shop each weekend and talk about wine. To me, that kind of connection is really what this juice is about. I had a chance to introduce several people to new wines that they had never tried. ‘Even got a chance to introduce someone to wine for the first time. Nothing is quite as humbling to a long-term wine geek as to have the newbie pick out elements in a wine that I missed. I got to do one of my favorite things; sit out on the front lawn at our patio table drinking rosé and ask my neighbors over for a glass as they got home from work. A nice way to review the day and relax from it. I moved and as a result, had a chance to design my own cellar in the new house. When it’s done I’ll post a picture, although it won’t be fancy; I’m a function over form kind of guy. But it will be just exactly the way I want it with over-sized racking and plenty of storage despite a relatively small space. It will be immense fun to get my wine out of storage and stock it when complete. I went to some wonderful parties where wine was served, met some terrific people over a glass or two, and, traveled to places where wine is made and people that love it share it. It’s funny; I can’t remember all the labels and vintages any more but I have very clear recollections of the moments and the feelings. And honestly, that’s why I pour this stuff. Happy holidays to you and yours and may the coming year bring you such opportunities and memories. Best, Jim

Diane and I will spend Christmas eve as we always do; alone together with a bottle of champagne - this year's candidate: '90 Krug. Best, Jim

I ask. Yeah, it may be uncivil or embarassing but I have no desire to have those emotions play out when the check arrives. Usually, I find a couple different wines at differing price points and let the host assist in the choice - no surprises. Best, Jim

2004 Foillard, Morgon Côte du Py: Not as unpleasant as a recent ‘04 Breton, Morgon VV, but close with a stemmy, candied nose and flavor profile and little concentration; ‘makes me think Morgon’s fruit did not get ripe in 2004. (Tried again several days later and found it stemmy and flabby.) 2004 Kuentz-Bas, Alsace: Reminds of Hugel’s Gentil (a blend) in overall flavor profile but this wine comes across cleaner with more purity. A ripe, luscious little wine at a nice little price (about $10). 2001 Prà, Soave Classico Monte Grande: Mineral infused, citrus nose with a very slight touch of smoke; almost salty minerality across the palate with complex lemon drop, stone and unripe pineapple flavors, concentrated, intense, balanced and a very long, peppery finish. Showing youthful exuberance yet still a bit closed; more about terroir than the variety. Damn good wine. 1999 Prager, Chardonnay Smaragd Weissenkirchen: “And now for something completely different;” this wine says more about its origins than about the variety with high-toned, mineral aromatics reminiscent of riesling; crisp in the mouth with resinous notes on a texturally smooth, viscous, white fruit driven palate that has strong acids and is a bit tart, intense, concentrated and focused; long, tart finish. One very different chardonnay (I can think of no good comparison from chardonnays produced worldwide), showing young yet lip-smackingly delicious with chicken and white beans. Not for everyone and certainly not something to serve a non-geek chardonnay drinker. 2001 Dom. Bouchard Père & Fils, Volnay Caillerets – Ancienne Cuvée Carnot: Wild strawberry, earth and cherry nose; the same flavors on a firm, structured but silky palate that is linear, intense and balanced; medium length, structured finish. Pretty tight and ungiving at present and showing more like a Pommard than a Volnay; needs a decade in the cellar and I have no doubt those years will be rewarded. Best, Jim

Unreliable because they are snippets from two large tastings where little food was served, a very small amount of time was spent with each wine, stemware varied, and, the wines were only tried against each other. But friends of mine were pouring and it was good to see them. And George, my neighbor, went with me. So the social aspect of these events was their real value. First tasting: 2004 Correggia, Arneis: clean, bright, lightweight with an acidic finish. Try again 2003 Gini, Soave La Frosca: muddy and off variety. Nope 2003 Ramey, Chardonnay Russian River: thin, sour and over-oaked. Nope 2004 Gini, Soave: bright, varietally correct and intense. Yep. 2004 Revello, Docetto D’Alba: I thought it slightly corked but no one else did – anyway, that’s what it tasted like. Nope. 2004 Revello, Barbera D’Alba: jammy and new wave without concentration. Nope. 2003 Albino Rocca Barbera D’Alba Gelpin: Correct and well balanced with an old vine character. Yep. 2002 Calvalotto, Langhe Nebbiolo: Correct, seamless, concentrated and still exhibiting elegance that none of the previous wines could find. Yessiree bob. 2001 Scavino, Barolo: Recognizable as Barolo with no obvious manipulation or overt oak. Yep. 2002 Gutturnio, il Poggiarello: a bit musty but not unpleasantly so. Try again. 1999 Selva de’ Canonici, Montpulciano D’Abruzzo: Not bad, medium weight, reasonably resolved wine. Try again. 2003 Fattoria di Pancole, Chianti Colli Senesi: Blah and sharp. Nope. Second tasting: N/V Pacific Echo, Sparkling wine: very dry and out of balance. Nope. 2004 Maculan, Pino & Toi: elegant, lemony wine with more emphasis on the tocai in the blend (which I like) for $9. Yep. 2003 Prager, Riesling Steinriegel Federspiel: broad on the palate with solid character and good sustain. Pricey at $25 but good juice. Yep. 2004 Cusumano, Insolia: Pretty clean with some stoney elements and a lightweight fruit base, short finish. Still, there’s something that would bring me back. Try again. 2004 Avila, Chardonnay: Innocuous, Santa Barbara chard. that is a bit thin; but so much better than the Ramey (above) that it almost seemed palatable. Try again. 2004 Villa Giada, Barbera D’Asti I Suri: varietally correct and quite crisp; and while I recognize it for what it is, a prime example of why I’m not crazy about barbera. Nope. 2003 Dom. St. Luc, Coteaux du Tricastin: thin and vegetal grenache based beverage. Nope. 2001 Carmenet, Merlot: Has good structure and bright merlot fruit . . . and I can’t remember a time I called any merlot bright and structured. Try again. 2003 Artardi, Rioja Vinas de Grain: jammy, structured, fine tannins, well-balanced. If the jam elements subside, this could be good juice. No flaws. Try again. Best, Jim

2004 Schloss Castell, Silvaner Trocken: A bright, very slightly spritzy, 12% alcohol wine from Franken with very clean aromatics, a nicely citric palate and little finish. Destined for light lunches, picnics and, by virtue of bottle shape, when one wishes to recall those days when Mateus reigned supreme. Pleasant. 2004 Breton, Morgon Vielles Vignes: Stemmy and candied on the nose; decent fruit that seems too sweet on the palate; medium finish. Unpleasant. 1994 LaJota, Petite Sirah: After the memorable 1995 vintage of this wine a couple weeks ago, this was a completely forgettable; very sweet oak and candied nose; disjointed, manipulated and over-oaked palate; and . . . as for the finish, who cares. A nasty example of a winemaker screwing-up what nature gave him or her. 2000 Copain, Pinot Noir Hein Vineyard: Slightly oxidized (cork completely wet) and a bit mute and soft on both the nose and palate; there’s that good crackling, red fruit flavor that I find typical of Anderson Valley pinots but its lost in a damaged wine. Too bad. 2003 DuMol, Chardonnay chloe: A little too much butterscotch oak this time but still, there is a fruit concentration, intensity and acidity that is uncommon in CA chardonnay . . . at least, in my experience. 2004 Pepiére, Muscasdet: Just great; beautiful aromatics, a richness that is off-set perfectly by acidity and a balance that is almost impossible to describe. Delicious, life-affirming wine. Best, Jim

Steven, Not the ones I drink. Best, Jim