Florida Jim

Yes, that is the assumption. I don't think it takes a lot of work to find and follow producers that are not interested in the lowest common denominator. Still, it does require some effort, the amount of which I would say is directly proportional to the degree to which the consumer wishes to be divorced from the ordinary. Or, better said, to the degree the consumer wants something special. Best, Jim

As a small producer I don't want to believe this, but your statement reminds me that last year I attended a blind tasting of 21 California syrahs, all from small to mid-size producers. I only found two wines in the whole lineup that had that blueberry, bacon, licorice thing that I expect and crave from syrah. The rest of them could have passed for interesting to so-so cabernets. I was saddened and frankly, amazed. Are producers themselves afraid to produce those intense flavors, and is it strictly because of marketing? Sometimes I get the impression that our new generation of producers have been effectively brainwashed into thinking that if doesn't taste like black cherry and cassis, and nothing else, it's not a well-crafted red wine. ← Perhaps, in the overall market-place, Brad is right. But with even the least attempt, one can divorce oneself from that market and hunt out wines that do emphasize varietal character and/or terroir. So while I will accept the premise I would suggest that, with reasonable effort, it is irrelevant. Best, Jim

Mary, Both. There are many paths to "standardization," many of which I have issue with. I'll leave those out of this discussion. But on a happy note, niche players are everywhere, whether by virtue of doing what they have done for decades or making in-roads with a unique take. I think a lot of the new folks are maintaining their own independent style because they are choosing wine-making as a life-style as opposed to a way to make their only living. And the folks who have done it their own way for decades feel the traditions upon which their life is founded. Certainly, greater incomes can seduce either of these groups toward standardization, but not as readily as an operation that answers to its stockholders or one which provides the only means of support of a family. Best, Jim

2004 Dom. Jean Vullien et Fils, Roussette de Savoie Cepage Altesse: This 12.5% alcohol wine is made from the roussette grape (a/k/a altesse) in the foothills of the Alps. The aromatic nose is of cooked pears, white grape juice and rushing stream water; it’s viscous and fruit sweet on the palate with flavors that follow the nose with a clean, bright delivery, added peppery/spice notes and nice complexity; a medium length, complex finish follows. This is balanced, mouthwatering, delicious and was a point accompanying pasta with caramelized onions and pine nuts. Altesse is becoming one of my favorite white wine grapes. Thanks Chuck. 1994 Dom. Prieure Roch, Vosne-Romanee Les Hautes Maizieres: 12.5% alcohol (when’s the last time you saw that in a pinot noir?); Vosne spice on the nose (black pepper turning toward cinnamon) with some dark fruit and a touch of bottle bouquet; the same on the palate where the textures are full and approaching rich, the fruit is lively and has some depth, and, that spice is evident – but there isn’t much development here for an eleven year old wine; long, slightly grippy finish. This is texturally attractive but I expected more complexity; yet, it’s balanced, fruit-filled and, best of all, so clearly of its place as to be unmistakable. A fine example of a village Vosne, no matter the exigencies of the vintage. Thanks John. 1995 Biale, Petite Sirah Old Vineyards (magnum): (16.1% alcohol!) Slight alcohol on the nose but also powerful dark fruit and spice scents coupled with some lavender and red fruit high tones and just a hint of prune juice; round, chewy and full bodied in the mouth with good grip, concentration, old vine sap and intensity (here the alcohol only shows as viscosity); long, moderately tannic finish that shows more alcohol the longer it goes. I should say that this wine does not come across as grossly over-ripe or as having port or mixed-drink type alcohol. Fortunately, the fruit is so big and intense that it all but obscures it. And the longer the bottle is open, the less alcohol is noticed. A very substantial wine still showing very young. Best, Jim

2002 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie: Excellent structure and ripe fruit in a powerful, precise package; none of the cooked character of the Cuvee Tardive. Delcious with baked chicken. 1999 Siduri, Pinot Noir Christian David: Mature and perhaps slightly past; mushroom and underbrush scents evident in the nose; resolved palate with some complexity but fading fruit; medium finish. Drink soon. Good with aged gouda. 2004 Protocolo, Rose: Crisp, clean, vinous and fun; with turkey roll-ups, excellent. 2004 Pepiere, Muscadet: Recently described as ‘running through the sprinklers on a hot day while sitting on the couch;’ I see no reason to quibble with that description. Lovely juice. 1995 Dom. Perrot-Minot, Gevrey-Chambertin: Translucent (always a good sign); smells quite complex with Gevrey earth, fresh mushroom, slightly roasted raspberry and a light mineral note; absent food, medium bodied, bright, slightly attenuated fruit, good complexity and integration, partially resolved structure; clipped finish. Of its place but slightly out of balance toward acidity. With food, the palate rounds out, takes on flesh and the finish lengthens. Still a touch acidic on the finish. This needs more time in the cellar. 2002 Dom. Louis Jadot, Moulin-a-Vent Chateau des Jacques: If you never had a Beaujolais that impressed you, try this one. Expansive fruit and spice aromas; a deep, rich palate that is concentrated, ripe, focused and perfectly balanced; a long, meaty finish. There is structure here but it is all but hidden and this wine is clearly in its infancy – still delicious from the first sip. Best, Jim

John and Joe, Sorry to be tardy, I was away. The Burgs. I have in my cellar that prompted my initial post post come from some of the following producers: Drouhin, Roumier, Dugat-Py, Chevillon, Clavelier, de Vogue, Bizot, Barthod, Courcel, d'Angerville, Dujac, Fourrier, Jadot, Lafarge, Leroy and Rousseau. As I believe that producer is paramount in Burgundy, this is pretty much the list I would recommend to Joe for aging. There are others but some I can't find and some I can't afford (DRC). Certainly the 1'ers and grand cru's from these folks would be the ideal condidates for the long term. But I also like John's list of stuff outside Burg. for the long term (especially Barolo) and a mixed case may be a wonderful way to introduce your kids to not only fine, aged wine but the variety that makes this hobby so enjoyable. Best, Jim

Yep; unsuccessful. Best, Jim ← Rovani mentioned encountering sulphur to an unprecedented degree when tasting the '03s. I don't recall if Prum was a particular culprit. He did mention that in many cases the taint seemed to blow off in a few minutes. Not in your case? ← Nope. Not even with 60 hours in the decanter. Best, Jim

Yep; unsuccessful. Best, Jim

2001 Vina Mein: And now for something completely different; this is 80% treixadura, 15% godello, and the remaining 5% is a blend of albarino, loureira and torrontes; 12% alcohol; at once reminiscent of German riesling and greco with a sweet nose accented with black pepper and resin; slightly fat on the palate but also brightly acidic with a nice complexity of flavors including unripe pineapple, pepper, resin, melon and citrus; medium length, crisp finish. Very interesting stuff and although I have had wines made with godello or albarino the rest of the blend is new to me. It comes from the Ribeiro region of Spain (home of many fine albarino and light reds from granacha and caino) but the U. S. importer is no longer in business so I have no idea how one would find it. Of all places, this was in the back of refrigerator unit that held 99% beer singles for sale. Only a geek uncovers such things . . . 1998 Cantina del Pino, Barbaresco Ovello: Decanted three hours; the nose of this wine is why I adore nebbiolo – expansive with red fruit, leather, floral and spice scents that carry me away; solid on the palate with some complexity and big time grip, concentrated yet still elegant but much too young; medium length, astringently tannic finish. However, with a plate of sautéed golden chanterelles, it was heavenly. Very fine but needs time. 1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Cuvee Mystere: This wine has just never come together; it reminds of a motor-sailer – the least of a cross between a sail boat and a motor boat; if I understand correctly this was made with both under and over-ripe grapes; it doesn’t work. Its not bad wine but it is strained and hollow without either the power of the over-ripe or the freshness of the under-ripe. An interesting experiment but ultimately, unsuccessful. 1999 J. J. Prum, Riesling Spatlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr: This is flawed wine; when opened it was sulpherous on both the nose and palate (to the extent that it overwhelmed the wine); 60 hours in the decanter later it was still matchstick stuff. It may be a great house, the fruit may be wonderful and the overall construction of the wine may be excellent – but this is a mistake and it seems to be one this producer makes regularly (albeit, not in such degree). 1999 Raptor Ridge, Pinot Noir Murto Vineyard: Essence of black raspberry on the nose and palate, multi-dimensional, beautiful balance, very concentrated, precise, astonishingly long; tastes like somebody put Musigny in this bottle. Has the structure and concentration to go a long time and needs it. An exceptional bottle in every respect. And to think I got a case of this being closed out at $9 a bottle; my, oh my! Best, Jim

A blessing. Best, Jim

Rambling thoughts: I love Burgundy. Several experiences with aged bottles have delivered the sine qua non of wine, for me. But, . . . I bought a good bit of the stuff from vintages 1993 through 2000, and I am beginning to think that doing so was little different from buying first growths; you have to wait so long for them to mature you had best be a young person when you’re buying. After having tasted a number of 93’s, 96’s, 98’s and 99’s recently, I can’t imagine any of them maturing in the foreseeable future (too bad I didn’t buy more 97’s). Cellaring wine for my daughter (as much as I love her) was not what I had in mind here. Oregon pinots are starting to look better and better; they seem to mature sooner and they still have the food friendly, more elegant profile I look for in this variety. I’ve tried most of them, but the very best cork-screw I’ve found is the Teflon-coated, double pull action model. Not even a lever pull is easier and it’s a lot bulier. Italian whites are getting better and better. I know quite a number of very experienced wine geeks who don’t much care for them (or at least, that’s what they say). It makes me wonder if they’ve had a Pieropan, Soave, recently or a Greco, Falanghina or Fiano from a good producer. Mind bending, idiosyncratic wines like Valentini’s Trebbiano; Gravner’s, Ribolla Gialla; and, Lambruschi’s, Vermentino, are extraordinary and age-worthy. Refreshing varieties like Arneis, Cortese, Garganega, Grillo, Picolit and Tocai Friulano are making delicious, mostly inexpensive, bianchi. My cellar is filling up with these. Whatever happened to Vince Contatello? Another region that seems unable to shed its ‘bad rep.’ is Beaujolais. The number of people that immediately say “nouveau” when I talk about Beaujolais is disheartening. Even here in vinous cyberspace, the prejudice is evident. I told some folks the other day that I thought cru Beaujolais represented the single best value in red wine today and that some producers were making wines of such quality as to be some of the best juice from anywhere. What followed was a pregnant silence and the unanimous stares of the incredulous. And then they went back to chatting as though I’d never said a word. Maybe I should be happy that such misconceptions keep demand and prices down. But misconceptions they are, as is clearly evidenced by the wines of Dom. Vissoux, Louis Jadot, Jean-Paul Brun, Diochon, Paul Janin, Michael Chignard, Dominique Piron, Chat. Thixin, Dom. Dupeuble, Dom. de la Voute des Crozes, Jean Calot, Pierre et Paul Durdilly, Dom. du Granit, Alain Michaud, Devignes, Savoye, Jacky Janodet, Souchons, Georges Viornery, Laurent Martray, Foillard, Lapierre, Breton, Coudert, and Jean-Paul Ruet. (But then, maybe I’m just as bad as those who don’t believe in Beaujolais; I am not even interested in trying sparkling shiraz. We all have are prejudices, I guess.) Spain. For years the only thing I knew about the wine business there was Vega Sicilia, Rioja, Ribero del Duero and sherry. I couldn’t afford the first and didn’t care about the others. But just as the Italian whites are coming into focus for me, so are the wines of the Levant, Galicia, New and Old Castille, and Catalonia. And the prices for most of these wines are really inexpensive. As a matter of fact, I find more often than not that I like the low-priced wines better than attempts by producer’s here to create high-end or premium wines (they seem to be able to afford more new oak for the upper-end cuvees). White varieties such as Albarino, Godello, Loureira, Verdejo and Pedro Ximenez are used in making some truly wonderful table wines and, in the case of PX, a distinctive dessert wine. Tempranillo may still be king of the reds but Bobal, Mencia, Carinena (Carignan), Garnacha, Graciano, Monastrell (Mourvedre) and Juan Garcia are making wines in these areas that rival even the best of Tempranillo based wines. If you get a chance, try to find some of the wines from these areas and these varieties; I think you will be both pleasantly surprised by the quality and your credit card statements. Oh yes, and don’t forget Cava, the sparkling wine of Catalonia; bright, vividly earthy and cheap . . . real cheap. Best, Jim

1994 Muga, Torre Muga: My wife took one smell and sip and asked “why?” Even the cork smelled like a lumber yard. There is fruit here but it is disjointed on both the nose and palate; there is structure but it is obscured by a mouthful of wood tannins; there is some attempt at ripe flavor but the extraction takes it past the point of integration; in short, this could have been much better had not this fine old Rioja house decided to compete with the Silver Oaks of the world. We didn’t (couldn’t) finish it. 2003 Campos Reales, Tempranillo: Nose of black raspberry, stewed strawberries and cinnamon with hints of earth and other black fruits; vibrant and concentrated in the mouth with a worsted texture and a seamless delivery; long, balanced finish. An integrated, richly flavored and textured wine that is delicious with or without food. Imported by Stacole Co., retails at $8, and is, IMO, both better made and better balanced than the Torre Muga (at one-tenth the price). 2002 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie Cuvee Tardive: There is a baked, dark fruit element here that distinguishes it from the regular cuvee such that it reminds me of a very ripe Morey St. Denis wine, maybe, a Clos de la Roche or Clos St. Denis; powerful aromatics that seem brooding and latent; equally powerful black fruit and earth tones on the palate with sap, concentration and intensity; long, structured finish. This is not even remotely what folks think about when someone says “Beaujolais;” rather it is gutsy, full-throttle stuff that will, IMO, take years to evolve into what it can be; still the balance and stuffing are certainly there for the ride. 2002 Dom. Bouchard Pere et Fils, Savigny-les-Beaune: Toothsome and fleshy with a solid structure and, after an hour or so, some very clean but distinct Beaune complexity developing; lots of fruit here but well balanced, grounded and bright; spectacular with a dish of pasta with sautéed golden chanterelles in a light cream sauce. About $35 on a restaurant wine list and worth it. 1998 Torii Mor, Pinot Noir Seven Springs Vnyd.: For its first five years, this wine showed simple but with lots of fat, sweet fruit. It has become more streamlined but also more complex; damp (but clean) moss, milk chocolate and cranberry scents make brief appearances and accent the elderberry/raspberry nose and bright palate. Good balance, structure and sustain, this will certainly age another five or more years effortlessly, but it’s crisp and layered now – and that will do nicely. (Wasn’t Patricia Green making for this house in 1998? I’ve liked a lot of her Oregon bottlings since she’s been on her own; if she made this, it speaks well of her style and learning curve.) Best, Jim

The bulldozers came and tore it all down to plant merlot or some such. The whole damn hill! And this with an ordinance against new vineyards in force in Sonoma Cnty. at the time. Its nice to be king, I guess, but the view from that tasting room just got real different. Best, Jim

Have you seen what Gallo did out in back of that shack? Best, Jim

Jay, I still have some of Vince's 1987 Cabernet Sauvignon in my cellar and his 93 cab. may be one of the best balanced cabs. from Napa I have tasted; certainly the star of that vintage. I also have more than a few bottles of his Petite Sirah in the cellar and, if you can buy any (I think its all sold on mailing list), I suggest you avoid the reserves as they are heavily oaked. Vince is another guy who chose winemaking as a second career and he has continued to do good work for about the last twenty years. Best, Jim

With cauliflower soup drizzled with white truffle oil: 2003 Valdeorra, Val de Sil: 100% godello from 60 year old vines; 13.5% alcohol; nose of honeyed peaches and chewing gum with spice accents, including black pepper; concentrated on the palate with strong flavors that echo the nose, viscosity, good acidity and balance. In the absence of food, the honeyed tones and strong flavors can seem a little much; in its company, the black pepper accents are highlighted, the flavors even out and with this dish, the whole was greater than the sum of the parts. A memorable pairing. With pasta with brown butter and pine nuts: 1989 Gastaldi, Rosso: Nebbiolo at 14% alcohol and 15 years in bottle; on several previous occasions this wine has shown too tannic or disjointed, however, tonight it was sublime with very fresh, juicy fruit on the nose and palate (giving the impression of biting into a perfectly ripe piece of fresh fruit), captivating complexity and perfect balance in an integrated, beautifully structured wine. In the absence of the pasta, some of the tannin reappeared to dry out the finish but with it, the tannins completely melted away yet the wine still had grip and substance. Another excellent pairing and, I think, a good example of the axiom “simple food with great wine.” Best, Jim

1999 Cristom, Pinot Noir Marjorie Vnyd.: Opened over the course of two hours but still probably needs three years in the cellar; slight dill/green olive on the nose along with powerful black raspberry and smoky plum fruit; substantial in the mouth without sharp edges but structured and integrated (the flavor profile also changes over time); medium long finish without astringency. The density and concentration of the fruit saves this from being over-oaked. Of its place with good balance but the amount of wood used makes me worry about vintages less concentrated and ripe. 2002 Cazin, Cour-Cheverny Cuvee Renaissance: Demi-sec level RS to this taster but beautifully balanced with a laser-like acidity and dense, deep fruit with hints of balsam, sassafras and mineral; shows complexity even now; meaty, and an endless finish. Certainly, this will benefit from cellar time but it is terrific now. 2003 Bodegas Emeterio Fernandez, La Legua: Mostly tempranillo with a little grenacha and cabernet sauvignon; it is darkly aromatic with damp earth scents to accent solid and ripe red fruit; the same on the palate where there is balance and some complexity; medium length finish. Maybe a bit darker than most tempranillo but certainly bears that grape’s signature. Drinking well now and for the short term, Eric Solomon imports and about $8. 2003 Inama, Soave: Clean and lightly fruity on the nose; lightweight, balanced and almost thin on the palate; medium finish. At 12.5% alcohol, it showed no signs of the vintage’s heat but it is not as flavorful as Pieropan’s or the following wine. 2003 Anselmi, San Vincenzo: Much fuller on the nose and palate than the Inama wine with a nice mouth-feel and better length. Contains some chardonnay but maintains its garganega character despite it. 1999 Copain, Pinot Noir Dennison Vnyd.: Still not fully open but this crackles with flavor, smells of ripe fruit and stone, leaves a dry, crisp impression without any astringency and has good complexity. It is of its place (the Anderson Valley), very well-made and as good as CA pinot gets. (Aside: I have followed Copain’s wines awhile and, although there are times when they have missed the mark, the times they get it right are downright inspirational. This is the kind of wine that California can make, it just rarely does. I do hope that Wells and the folks at Copain continue to do this kind of work and are not seduced by the ‘standard in the industry’ style.) 2002 Patricia Green, Pinot Noir Hirsch Vnyd.: By comparison to the Copain this is softer, more ponderous and has a slight hollowness at mid-palate. Pleasant, but not even half the wine the Copain is. 2003 Foillard, Morgon Cote du Py: Jolly wine with lots of ripe, juicy fruit, substantial weight and a broad, round (but not flabby) delivery. Fun to drink and smell with a terrific texture. Best, Jim

Yep, although I have yet to meet an expensive Rueda. Best, Jim

If its me, I'm thinking Fiano de Avilino or Greco de Tufo; Feudi di San Gregorio makes a good one of each that is widely distributed and should be in the $20 and under range. Other possibles include Anselmi's Soave (San Vincenzo is cheap), unoaked chardonnay from anywhere (but Chablis is nice) and good Muscadet. I think the wine should have enough cut to stand with a cream sauce but should not be so intense (or woody) that the saffron gets lost. Then too, there's always bubbly. Best, Jim

2001 Clos La Coutale, Cahors: A very enjoyable wine with ripe black cherry aromas accented with black pepper and earth; the same on the palate which is rich and fairly soft; decent length. This costs about $11 and is more than worth it; it also has some structure and it would be very interesting to give it a couple years in the cellar. 2002 Dom. Les Fines Graves (Jacky Janodet), Beaujolais Moulin a Vent: Tight at first but, in the decanter for a couple hours, it opens nicely and carries aromas and flavors of cherry, chalk and spice in a silky textured, moderately complex way that peaks both the psychological and the physiological; good length. Janodet produces wines of authenticity and longevity and this is a fine example of both; about $12. 2002 Torres Dorees (J.P. Brun), Beaujolais L’Ancien VV: Whatever reductive elements were a part of the nose previous, they were not present in this bottle and it was wonderfully fruit-filled and light on the palate with an integration the Janodet wine is still searching for. A delicious, sensual drink and more than ample proof to this taster that Brun is master of his craft. About $12. NV Marquis de Monistrol, Cava Reserva Brut Selection Especiale: This is absolutely a no-brainer with lovely fruit, a steady bead, light earthiness and a cleansing palate. Clean and delicious bubbly for, wait for it . . . , $6. 2002 Miguel Torres, Vina Sol (375): Easy to drink and the perfect aperitif wine. Light, precise, clean and not even a whiff of wood. This split costs about $4. Best, Jim

Does anyone have any current notes, experience or recollections regarding the following wines: 1994 Beringer, Bancroft Vnyd. Cabernet Sauvignon 1991 Dunn, Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1991 Montelena, Cabernet Sauvignon 1991 Phelps Eisele Vnyd. Cabernet Sauvignon 1995 Biale, Old Vnyd. Petite Sirah 1999 St. Innocent, Seven Springs Pinot Noir 1999 Cristom, Marjorie Vnyd. Pinot Noir 1999 Dom. Drouhin, Pinot Noir Louise 1998 Rochioli, East Block Pinot Noir 1994 Caprai, 25 Anni Sagrantino 1989 Gastaldi, Rosso 1994 Torre Muga 1994 Grange 1994 Churchill, Port 1992 Fonseca, Port 1994 Taylor-Fladgate, Port 1998 Chapoutier, Chante Allouette 1999 Chave, Hermitage 1998 Vieux Telegraph 1999 Dom. Roally, Macon-Villages 1996 Trimbach, Clos St. Hune 1998 Couhins-Lurton, Bordeaux Blanc 1989 Lynch Bages 1996 Lynch Bages 1995 Chat. Margaux 1996 Chat. Lafite 1995 Montus Any thoughts, notes, or comments appreciated. Best, Jim

1999 Alzinger, Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg: An intense and structured wine that is not at maturity nor even close but still showing good depth and acidity; 13% alcohol and destined to be much more than it is. 1996 Weinbach, Riesling Schlossberg (Grand Cru), Cuvee St. Catherine: Sweet on the nose – to the point that one might think it a VT or SGN – but dry on the palate and showing well but slightly past its apex; 13% alcohol and better drunk now than later. 1999 Rbt. Chevillon, Nuits-St.-Georges Les Chaignots: A wine of discernable character on the nose with fairly deep scents of Nuits, earth, olive and very dark fruit; not so much on the palate where things are leaner and not yet together although the stuffing is obvious; persistent finish. Miles to go before it is impressive but the nose alone is worth the cork pulling. NV Inniskillin, Sparkling Ice Wine (375 ml): 100% vidal and 10% alcohol; an interesting but not fascinating wine where the powerful sweetness of the ice wine is cut by the bubbles but with little else happening to make this either memorable or exceptional. Best, Jim

Vive la différence, indeed. Both the white and black label Caremas from Lugi Ferrando are authentic, lighter-weight nebbiolos of breed. I envy you the chance to have the 1990. The farming required to make these wines hurts my back just to think about; all that stooping and bending. But, as your note indicates, they are worth it. Best, Jim

Chris, Just so we are clear, Daniel is a professional with years of experience. I am not a professional in any sense of the word nor do I have the kind of experience that would qualify me to be considered a professional - rather, I am an enthusiastic amateur with opinions and the conviction to write about them. All of my experience has been in that capacity. What I admire most about the pros; folks like Daniel, Jancis, Claude, Tanzer, Parker, et al, is that they are winelovers first and that they have found a way to make a living or supplement their livings through their passion. As Daniel notes, they are not gods nor are they 'right;' but they can indeed be guides. One thing that I think is extremely important here; there is no short-cut to wine knowledge, no way to take three semesters and be an expert - and this is a foreign concept to our fast paced world. Rather, experiencing wine and learning about it requires a lifetime; perhaps even more. It is vitally important to try as many wines as possible personally; the good and the bad; in order to have a true sense of your own palate and to understand that preference has nothing to do with price, other people's comments or anything else, save your own enjoyment. Slow and easy, in the company of friends and in the spirit of conviviality, is the way to your own sense of wine knowledge, confidence and delight. Now really, aren't you sorry you asked? Best, Jim

"Danger, danger Will Robinson!" Best, Jim