Florida Jim

2002 Byron, Pinot Noir: Simple, tastes manipulated, woody and bordering on objectionable. Use for sangria. 1997 Paloma, Syrah: Best showing so far as it has shed some of its monolithic and slick delivery to become somewhat complex and less candied. Still won’t hold with a good Crozes but not bad. 1999 J. Drouhin, Vosne-Romanee: A consistently good producer of village Vosne, this is chocked full of flavor, quite intense, concentrated without feeling extracted, nicely balanced and delivers complexity that includes a refined spiciness. Will cellar medium term but drinks well now with a little decanter time. Excellent. 2000 J.P. Droin, Chablis Les Clos: Superb and just beginning to drink well. Lovely lemon-honey aromatics with hints of flowers, steel, spice and earth; viscous and marrowy in the mouth with ripe fruit, lots of mineral, spice and earth accents, excellent depth and absorbing complexity, balanced, concentrated and intense; long finish. More complexity and more persuasive than a recent 2000 Raveneau, Clos, but not quite the refinement of a recent 2000 Dauvissat Les Preuses. A terrific wine. Aside: I know people that intentionally avoid this producer based on his use of oak. And indeed, I am no fan of wood in my Chablis. But recent tastes of the 2000 grand crus from Droin show no overt wood and, if Raveneau and Dauvissat can use oak and have the wines unmarked by it, there is no reason to believe that Droin can’t. Further, these wines are a bargain when compared to Dauvissat and Raveneau. Best, Jim

You're killin' me here! I should have bought a lot more. Best, Jim

With vegetarian lasagna: (This is made with béchamel sauce, not red sauce and has lots of wild mushrooms in it) 2001 Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes: A wine that delivers intensity and strong flavors of spice, dark fruit and cocoa without weight; medium bodied, very precise and elegant across the palate, nicely concentrated and balanced; medium length. I know little about this producer but someone here is doing something right. Not sure about cellaring this but delighted to drink it now. and, 1998 J.L. Chave, Hermitage (rouge): Good wine but not up to expectations. Certainly young and with good depth but this tastes more like it was made in California. Its weight is authentic and the complexity discernable but where did this over-lay of chocolate and wood-spice come from? I will chalk this showing up to youth as I can not think of a single producer more deserving of the benefit of the doubt. Best, Jim

It was; about an hour. Noticeable but not intrusive and pretty ripe. Best, Jim

With cheese: 1997 Dom. Leflaive, Bienvenues Batard-Montrachet: Aromatically youthful but still expansive with deep, ripe chardonnay fruit accented with smoke, stone, spice and earth tones, good complexity; incredible on the palate with an initial burst of fresh grape juice that is still a part of the rich, viscous, stony flavor profile, completely harmonious yet still firm and intense, immense concentration, precise balance, marvelously complex and a spectacular finish, both in length and flavor complexity. Both steely and fat at the same time and my new standard for chardonnay. A life list wine. With a salad of mache, gorgonzola, walnuts and fresh pears: 2000 Raveneau, Chablis Clos: A leaking cork foretold a wine that started out dead on the nose but lovely on the palate; once decanted, it began to open up and by evening’s end was true to its grand cru lineage. Strongly flavored with good depth and ripeness and exceptional length, however it never was as impressive as the preceding wine nor a 2000 Dauvissat, Preuses tasted earlier this week. I suspect a cork/storage/shipping problem and, as good as the wines from this house can be, I find more damaged bottles of Raveneau than any other top Chablis producer. With vegetarian lasagna with fresh sliced truffles: 1999 Pio Cesare, Barolo: Very ripe on the nose and palate without much development or complexity but it tasted of fruit and not wood which is more than I expected of such a young Barolo. Good concentration, intensity and length bode well for its future. After hours: 1999 Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin VV: Also young but showing a velvet texture, ripe tannins and mouth-filling flavors of fruit and earth. And an amazing finish that keeps pumping out flavors long after one has swallowed. Not many village wines live at this level. Best, Jim

On a recent visit to the Anderson Valley, I was struck by the variation in topography. One moment you are weaving through hill country where elevation changes are rapid and S-turns wind through constricted canyons, and the next, you are driving straight road on flat valley floor. Of all the places in northern California I have been, this one feels the most right to me. The Dennison Vineyard is up this way; where exactly, I have no idea. But it interests me; not just because it is a vineyard located here but because its fruit, in the hands of Wells Gutherie from Copain, produces what I think is the best pinot noir in the state. Certainly, the fruit gets ripe; alcohol levels above 14% attest to that. But the wines rarely show any alcoholic heat; rather they crackle with bright, crisp black raspberry and blackberry flavors. And those flavors show a depth that I find unique in domestic pinot noir; in fact, such intensity and concentration I more often associate with the very best makers in Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-St.-Denis. Even so, these are not Burgundian for they show the forward nature of this grape raised on the left coast. For instance; over a two-day period, Diane and I enjoyed a bottle of the 1999 Copain, Pinot Noir from the Dennison Vineyard. Slightly closed on day one (and at 5 years of age, I think that’s a good sign) it still showed the robust black fruit character and firm structure I have come to expect from these bottlings. On day two it was more open (albeit, not completely) displaying a layered complexity to the fruit and spice flavors and a textural integration not present on day one. More compelling still was the length; not only persistent but balanced across the palate throughout a complex after-taste. I don’t buy much wine from California these days; even the Copain mailers I’ve been throwing away. My wine budget has shrunk substantially and my preference for French wine has become more acute. But I think I will look a little more closely at the next order form from Copain. These wines are impressive, seem to have their own aromatic and palate signature and Wells is, quite obviously, doing something right. And the next time I drive through the Anderson Valley, I really do have to find this vineyard. Best, Jim

Linda, Short-term memory. I do not make notes while tasting (unless it is a very large tasting event and I try to avoid those) but I write up my notes shortly after the dinner/tasting is finished. As for wines tasted in the past, although I do keep a data base (poorly organized, however) on computer, most of these wines I have some memory of (and the circumstances in which they were tasted). And although that may sound like I have a very good memory, the truth is that being retired leaves lots of space on my personal "hard drive;" my wife will tell you that my memory is also highly selective - wine, yes; anything else, no. Thankfully, she's learned to live with that. Best, Jim

kaz, I went very long on 1999 Burgundies and have tasted widely (although less so at grand cru levels); this was my favorite of all the wines I tasted. Disappointed, to say the very least. Best, Jim

On day two: 2000 Pieropan, La Rocca: There is something vaguely resinous about this wine, not off-putting but noticeably different; still good strong flavors, nice balance and good persistence. Somewhat more open than yesterday and no fall of. 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet: Exactly the same; authentic and delicious. On day three: 2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allees: Excellent aromatics with lime, black pepper, citrus, stone and lightly floral; much more fleshy and round on the palate than day one with deeper fruit and mineral flavors, some spice, good balance and a solid acidic backbone; good length. Has opened a good bit but has years to go to be at full song. A very promising wine. With dinner this evening that included lobster bisque, salad and duck confit with pasta: 2000 R&V Dauvissat, Chablis Les Preuses: Decanted four hours in the cellar; oh my! Sensational nose of lemon skin, pear, hot sauce, mineral and flowers; full bodied with a viscous texture, good depth of fruit and mouth-watering cut, flavors follow the nose with all sorts of layers, concentrated and intense, lovely balance; long finish. A memorable wine and the epitome of grand cru Chablis. Will last but fabulous now. 1999 Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras: Decanted four hours in the cellar and one hour at the table; clearly Chambolle on the nose but hard and unforgiving, powerfully built, structured for a minimum of a decade, deeply concentrated and balanced; but not drinking now or anytime soon. Firm and closed – period. Promising. After hours: 1999 Siduri, Pinot Noir Archery Summit Vnyd.: Dill pickle juice nose with some dark fruit; better on the palate with crisp, pinot-esque flavors, strong acidity and little complexity; short finish. Needs cheese; needs bread; needs to be in someone else’s cellar. Unpleasant. Tale of woe: In anticipation of guests for dinner, I opened and decanted a magnum of 1999 Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques and it was corked. Having had the wine at release out of this format, I can tell you that “woe” is used correctly in my subtitle. A great wine sacrificed to the cork bane and another vote for Stelvin. Best, Jim

Often times, we have guests in and the bottles are finished (or very nearly so) among the group. Last night, it was just us and a taste of this and that. I'll have notes on these wines over the next couple days just to see how they do after opening. It did sort of look like we were drowning our sorrows, didn't it? I'm a bit too old for that stuff. Best, Jim

For eight autumns we have lived amongst the sugar maples. Each day we wait for the sunlight to illuminate our stained-glass ceiling. And each year, we notice that a single day brings the most vibrant color. Not this year. Inexplicably, the “high color” day has been going on for over three weeks. Blood reds, brilliant oranges, glowing browns and an entire palate of yellows that appear to be lit from within. Maybe because we had so much rain or maybe because it hasn’t gotten really cold yet . . . we try to guess, but nature shows us only effect, not cause. There are no words to relate how wonderful it feels to walk among these trees. And none to explain the sadness of knowing that this is our last fall with them. One of my adjoining neighbors has sold her 15 acres to a developer and shortly, some fifty condos will arise where only horses and cows have grazed for the last decade. We can’t watch. Change; so beautiful in some ways, so distressing in others. So tonight we watched the ball game; we’re not really fans, we just needed the distraction. Diane made a dish of olives, onions, white beans, Swiss-chard and chicken sausages (with feta and spinach in them), and we sampled: 2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allees VV: This wine’s period of youthful approachability is ending as it closes up and becomes more acidic than previous bottles. No worries; with time in the cellar, it’s certain to be even more beautiful than in its baby-fat days. 2000 Pieropan, La Rocca: Not it’s best showing with this dish (which surprised me) but still a wine of depth and complexity. Although, each time I have an unoaked Soave I become more convinced that garganega should not see wood (this one has). 2001 Donnhoff, Riesling Qba: Somewhat honeyed on the nose but almost dry on the palate; a truly lovely wine that is thirst-quenching and charming in every way. BTW, the 2002 version is on sale at Carolina Wine for $15/bottle. 2003 Tue-Boeuf, Gamay: Slightly stemmy and surely earthy yet with such round and broad fruit as to relegate the stem/earth elements to only accents; nothing streamlined or austere about this juice; strongly flavored, very ripe fruit with decent backbone and nice complexity. Very enjoyable and, this showing convinces me, to drink my remaining bottles within the next year. 1999 Gilles-Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet: You know. (This is my go to wine on even the most difficult of days; like today.) Best, Jim

2000 Siduri, Pinot Noir Abre Vert: A fine, fresh Oregon pinot with a crisp palate, nice ripeness (not alcoholic), some depth and complexity, and juiciness I don’t often find in domestic pinot. Nice wine and my favorite designation from this producer. 2002 Coudert, Fleurie Clos de la Roilette: Too young but too good to put down. Thankfully, purchased in industrial quantities. 2000 Hudelot-Noellat, Bourgogne: Nice, balanced Burgundy that is for drinking today. 2002 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: Authentically structured Soave with good depth and focus. Will last awhile but difficult to keep hands off. 1995 Arroyo, Petite Sirah: Still too young but beginning to show some development and promise, Better than I could have hoped, still, I’d give it five more years, minimum. Best, Jim

Hmmmm; my Dad likes warm beer. Interesting note on the Leo; several 89's I've tasted in the last year have struck me similarly. 'Can't speak about the Taylor but, these days, the 77 Fonseca is a point. Best, Jim

Don't I wish; it was Paul's bring (bless his heart). And 20 years, according to the actuaries, is my life expectancy. A sobering thought and one that gives me support when I'm early on the trigger. Best, Jim

Also, very French. Thor Iverson has a few stories about the Trimbachs that he relates from time to time on the WLDG board. Quite a family. Best, Jim

You're welcome anytime; just let me know when you'll be in town. Nice notes; 'sorry about the three cases. Best, Jim

Paul and Elaine stuck around another day and we had: With cheese and crackers: 2003, Pax Rose of Syrah: Darker than many roses, full of flavor and, when served cold, no trace of alcoholic heat (14.1%). Strikes a nice balance between refreshing and toothsome. With pasta with red sauce: 2001 B. Giacosa, Nebbiolo D’Alba Valmaggiore: Rose and tar scents on a somewhat expansive nose – “smells like real wine” was Paul’s comment; medium body, elegant on the palate with deep earth tones and bright cherry, raspberry fruit, some dusty tannins; good persistence. Did not overwhelm the food but contrasted it well. A lovely, authentic wine. and, 2001 Sang des Cailloux, Vacqueyras Cuvee Floureto: Distinctly of its place on the nose and palate with meaty red fruit, scents of iron and earth, nearly salty minerality, concentrated, a worsted texture and a medium finish. This wine conjures up the word “savory” in my mind despite its ripe fruit; really nice with food. With Elaine’s apple crisp: 1998 Schoffit, Tokay Pinot Gris SGN Rangen de Thann, Lot 1 (500 ml): A mouthful of a name and a mouthful of wine; quite clear and clean and at the same time very sweet, dried fruit scents and flavors along with some brown spice and citrus elements; viscous and concentrated; long finish. Excellent with the dish but a bit too sweet for my personal taste. Best, Jim

With Paul and Elaine Campbell in the house, we enjoyed: With salmon spread and crackers: 1997 Trimbach, Riesling Frederic Emile (375): A wine of grace and depth with a bright minerality and perfectly ripe fruit; balanced and persistent. A lovely start and good with or without the food. With grilled pork loin, asparagus, sautéed Portobello mushrooms and olive bread: 1985 Barge, Cote-Rotie: Enchanting wine with a complex nose clearly of its place; beautiful full fruit on the palate but well delineated with olive, herb and earth tones, excellent structure and balance; medium length. A joy to drink and terrific with the food. and, 1990 Gaja, Sperss: “Gobs” of fruit overwhelmed by sweet and sour oak. The style is new wave, the oak obtrusive and there is so much fruit it’s forward. What a waste. Has anyone else noticed that you never see Angelo Gaja and Helen Turley in the same place? With assorted cheeses: 1971 Huet, Vouvray Moelleux Le Mont: Apricot, ginger, quinine, stone and orange zest scents, complex, bright and clear; medium weight, fully integrated and viscous on the palate with flavors that echo the nose, very little RS showing and extraordinary precision, concentrated, intense and perfectly balanced; endless, complex finish. I will run out of superlatives long before I have properly described this wine; one for the life list. Best, Jim

With endive and apple salad with blue cheese dressing: NV Alianca, Vinho Verde: Light, brisk, slightly herbaceous and a bit frizzante; a clean and refreshing wine with only 9% alcohol. Lovely with the salad. With leek and broccoli tart: 1999 Julien Mayer, Gewertztraminer Heissenberg: I find most gewertz. to be cloying, blousy or too powerfully flavored for the food I eat; this is anything but with laser like aromas and flavors of minerals and citrus along with the lychee and spice tones common to this grape, very clean on the palate and finish; middleweight and perfect balance. I will buy this if I can find it (Imported by Eric Solomon). Excellent with the tart and impressive by itself. With torte rustica (shitakes, provolone, ham and spinach in a savory pie shell): 2002 B. Baudry, Chinon Les Granges: The correct weight and cut to accompany this dish with blackberry, herb and mineral scents and flavors, excellent acidity, balance and a silky texture. Fun wine. Also; 2001 School Block, Shiraz/Cab./Merlot (McLaren Vale): Distribution is 60-30-10 of the above grapes, 14% alcohol; not overly oaked and pleasantly, if simply flavored; there is nothing wrong with this wine but it did not match the food well and seems, texturally, to be more of a “cocktail” wine. Maybe the first Oz red I have actually liked in the last year but nothing I would buy. Best, Jim

You get this at Chambers? I love this stuff. What a delicious wine; again, a favorite. You are drinking very well, indeed. Best, Jim

Extremely helpful; thanks. The complete sphere analogy is one I relate to and understatement, especially in Chablis, is my preference. I will look for a bottle or two for the cellar. Best, Jim

1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Willamette Valley: Very impressive. Although still showing young, this has gained grand cru density, good integration and some complexity over its years in the cellar. The concentration here is really outstanding and never drifted off into any extractive quality. At release, I remember this being more of an elegant, fresh wine with some nice earth tones that I would have with chicken dishes or salmon. Now, it is showing very deep fruit and a richness and structure befitting pairing it with heartier fare. Quite a transformation, IMO, and worth trying a bottle if you happen to have one. Aside: I do not expect Oregon pinots to make this kind of transformation in the cellar; I do expect great Burgundies to. So maybe this wine could be considered atypical. Or maybe, because Oregon is such a relatively young wine producing area, this is a glimpse of what it can become in time. Wouldn’t that be great! Best, Jim

Don, Enthusiasm appreciated. But a serious question if I may; what would you say was the wine's weak point. And I'm not asking for flaws but rather, if you had say a weak point, what would you say. (FYI, I try to do what I'm asking with every wine. Not as a way of lessening its emotional impact or its physical delight, but as an exercise in critical technique. Of course, I seldom write about that stuff because, like you, enthusiasm is what I'm really feeling. But I have an analytic side and wondered if you do, too.) Best, Jim

With smoked salmon spread and crackers: 2000 R & V Dauvissat, Chablis La Forest: Decanted one hour but still tight; crystalline on the nose and palate with lemon, floral aromas, mineral and white fruit flavors, intense, concentrated and lots of cut. A very tasty wine without anything overdone. Excellent with the dish. With tomato and mozzarella salad: 2000 Venica, Tocai Friulano Ronco delle Cime: More in the apple, mineral, spice style than the peachy, creamy style, this wine had a distinct earthy flavor that reminded me of the taste of corked wine. However, this wine was not corked. In any event, I couldn’t get past that taste; unusual stuff and fair with the dish. With pasta with roasted butternut squash and sautéed chicken: 2001 Claude Dugat, Bourgogne: I have little use for this producer due to their extensive use of new oak but this wine was terrific. I guess when it’s simply declassed Gevrey, new wood is too extravagant – Bravo! Very expansive nose of deep black and red fruit with an earthy tone that developed into something akin to iron; packed with flavor despite its youth and the fact its not yet entirely integrated, excellent concentration and intensity, good balance and length. Kept getting better in the glass. There is a lot of premier cru Gevrey out there that doesn’t come across this well. Good with the dish. With ricotta tarts with sautéed figs and blueberries: 1999 J J Prum, Riesling Spatlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr: Sulpher that did not blow off and overwhelmed the palate. I think I detected well concentrated fruit under the stink but if this is all the dissipation of sulpher Prum wines achieve over five years, I haven’t time for them. Disappointing. Best, Jim

Andre, I am no fan of oak and this wine had plenty (and most of it unintegrated). However, it also had a very solid fruit base with good structure and even some complexity. Nonetheless, even if one likes this kind of oak treatment, this was nowhere near ready to drink; very primary. Best, Jim