Florida Jim

With veggie burgers and chips: 1993 Lopez de Heredia, Vina Tondonia Rosado: When the current release rose is eleven years old, you know its going to be idiosyncratic/ Brilliant, reddish-copper/ Nose of wax, onion skin, strawberry, sherry and each element integrated with the other; seems somewhat tight/ The mouthfeel is wonderful; it’s like satin across the palate; more open as flavors of strawberry liquor, wood spice, sherry, orange zest, and mineral are backed by bright acidity, intense, concentrated, good balance but despite only 12% alcohol, there is a distinct liquor-esque taste to it, good complexity/ Long, long mouthwatering finish. Unlike anything I have ever had before. Diane says it doesn’t even taste like wine; more like something you mix with vodka to come up with some arcane mixed-drink; she hates it. I can imagine this wine as accompaniment to succulent lobster bisque or to any dish that includes a component of onions . . . a whole new world of possibilities opens; I love it. A wine that people will hate or love; I doubt anyone will say it’s just okay. Glorious stuff, IMO. Imported by Polaner Selections. A tip of the cap to Manuel for the suggestion. Best, Jim

Lunch: With assorted olives, spreads, veggies and left over pork loin: 1997 Hamacher, Pinot Noir: Transparent with salmon colored edges, threw some sediment/ Perfectly balanced nose of soil, raspberry, strawberry, humus and some oak spice; nicely complex and expansive/ Light bodied but intense on the palate with flavors that follow the nose and accent the earthy elements without overwhelming the fruit, bright and crisp in the mouth, nearly resolved tannins, some depth, some secondary development, good integration and balance/ Very long and lingering flavors on the finish. I tried to relate this to a Burgundy appellation but it stands on its own as an excellent example of its distinctly Oregon terroir. Beautiful to drink by itself or with the meal, against which it paired well. Will last and likely develop even more with further cellaring but it is no crime to drink it now. A taut, charming and captivating wine. About $30, delivered, at release. Dinner: With sliced tomatoes with organic EVOO: 2002 Pazo de Senorans, Albarino: This bottle showed a little more acidic than several recent bottles but it was also spicy and delicious. Some bitter almond elements gave it cut with the dish. Imported by Eric Solomon. With salmon cakes and caper sauce, celery/parmesan gratin and sautéed fresh corn (off the cob): 1998 Torii Mor, Pinot Noir White Rose Vnyd.: Decanted off light sediment/ Aromatically similar to Chambolle-Musigny with soaring black fruit, mineral, mushroom and spice scents; gives the impression of great concentration/ And it is very concentrated with flavors that follow the nose and add a light cola element that seems to keep the palate fresh, full bodied and intense, deeply flavored, sappy, layered, structured and well balanced; a very dense wine without the slightest hint of imbalance or being overdone/ Long, sweet fruit finish. In its youth, this had a candied note which has completely dissipated; it has become a very fine wine and it has many years left in the cellar. A lithe powerhouse. With a cheese course: 1990 Chat. Rochebelle, St. Emilion: My last bottle and it continues to show well; seamless and graceful with more cab. franc fruit tones than some previous bottles, no overt wood, lovely balance and substantial secondary development lending complexity. Excellent with the dish. Imported by me. Best, Jim

With pork tenderloin in brown gravy, deep fried risotto cakes and veggies: 1999 Bizot, Vosne-Romanee VV: Obviously unfiltered; cloudy and purple-garnet/ Moderate nose of black and red fruit with spice and wax tones; became more expansive and complex as the wine warmed to room temperature/ Medium body but quite dense, deep fruit and evident structure, pretty open flavors echo the nose but in a more complete way, layered, concentrated, intense, well balanced and showed a quality that makes me think that, as fine as this was tonight, its future holds immense potential/ Long, structured but not drying, finish. Just plain stellar with, IMO, the potential to be a genuinely great wine. And though clearly young this night, still delicious and captivating with a sense of place. Imported by Stacole, a Patrick Lesec Selection. Retailed on release for about $31. Best, Jim

A dinner with my sweetie: With pecan crackers and cream cheese/smoked salmon spread: 2002 Fevre, Chablis Champs Royaux: So much better than a bottle tried at release; this was ripe, fleshy, flavorful, showed some depth and had good persistence. Imported by Clicquot, Inc. The acids have calmed from that first bottle and the fruit is forward. I don’t think I’ll mistake this for premier cru but it’s a lovely, unoaked chardonnay that paired well with the dish. With baked pork loin with marinara sauce and rice: 2000 Zenato, Valpolicella Ripassa: Rich but focused with no overt wood and clear dark fruit and spice flavors. Not hugely concentrated or intense but well integrated, bright and ample to serve the dish. Imported by Winebow. A dinner with friends: With insalta caprese and assorted cheeses: 2003 Pascal Jolivet, “Attitude”: Sauvignon blanc nose sans cat pee; fleshy and light, clean, relatively crisp; medium finish. Imported by Frederick Wildman. Very easy to drink and enjoy; nothing serious; ready now. With grilled, homemade pizzas: 1999 Dom. du Mas Blanc, Collioure: Grenache dominated but some mourvedre mixed in; a very southern Rhone nose and palate; medium body and mellow texture; medium finish. Imported by Vineyard Brands. Pleasant table wine of good quality but nothing more. Ready now. 2000 Jean-Paul Brun, Moulin A Vent: Reticent nose; focused flavors of cherry, black cherry, earth and spice, good depth, integrated but not in the least flabby, the flavors are etched on the tongue, intense, young; long finish. Imported by Louis/Dressner. Beaujolais doesn’t get much finer. Laser-like and showing none of the “sweetness” that young gamay can. A remarkable wine that was drunk well before its time yet it still gave pleasure. With blueberries and peaches with crème fraiche and a touch of brown sugar: 1992 Guillemot-Michel, Macon-Clesse - Quintaine, Selection de Grains Cendres (375): Nose of spice, pineapple, vinyl and stone; not overly sweet but clearly botrytis affected and honeyed on the palate; nuanced but oddly short on the finish. Imported by Kysela Pere et Fils. A unique wine with some strong aromatics, sort of average flavors and little finish. Did we open it too soon? Thanks Sam. Best, Jim

Craig and Porkpa, FYI, there was another reason that I deleted pricing from my posts; not just because of the reason stated in my previous post. I got more than one e-mail from folks who thought I was shilling for a retailer/importer/producer and decided to tell me what they thought of it. Although I have good relationships with several retailers, distributors and producers, I don't color my notes on their behalf. Probably the reason I have such relationships in the first place is because most of those people are big boys and girls with adult sensibilities. And besides, my impact is insignificant. But it sort of shook me to get those e-mails so I just cut the pricing info. out. As I say, if someone can think of a succint disclaimer for each post that would get my points across, I'd reconsider. Best, Jim

I used to do that but I found such a wide variation in prices depending on the reader's location that I stopped. Rather, I decided to list the importer so that finding the wine would be made easier if a person was so inclined. Then they would ask what was being charged locally. As for this post, the Anselmi was $8, the Robin $9 and the Giacoa $23. I believe that these prices are less (in the case of the Robin, much less) than most folks will find them priced locally. I have a lot of time to search for the best price and I also buy close-outs when I find them. I have pretty much given up bying at full retail unless there is simply no alternative. In any event, I'll consider listing the prices again but I'm not sure how to convey the above information succinctly in each post. Any suggestions? Best, Jim

Lunch: With turkey sandwiches and chips: 2002 Anselmi, San Vincenzo: Lovely pear, honey and floral smells; fleshy and succulent on the palate with broad flavors that follow the nose, some depth, some complexity and nice balance; medium finish. A clean, juicy wine with enough body to stand with the dish but not so much as to overpower it. Ready now. Imported by Winebow. Dinner: With pasta with sautéed onions, garlic and oil cured olives: 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet: Scents of olives and fresh meat accent the red plum nose; medium body and nice layered flavors that follow the nose make for an interesting and delicious profile, good concentration and authenticity, balanced; long finish. The structure is there but stays hidden even though the wine is dense and has a somewhat worsted texture. Some very nice matching points with the dish (especially the olives) made this pairing quite successful. Good now, probably better later. Imported by Eric Solomon. With ginger-soy-sesame marinated duck breasts grilled: 2001 B. Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore: Decanted about an hour as it was thin and tight upon opening; captivating rose and red fruit aromas with airing and some spicy-earthy accents with a hint of asphalt; medium bodied and light-weight in the mouth but no lack of intensity or flavor, good complexity and a structure that seems to smooth out with the food, balanced; slightly drying finish. Young for sure but with some time in the decanter, a lovely, transparent nebbiolo. Sipped with the dish, it was twice the wine as without. Could use a couple years in the cellar. Imported by Winebow. Best, Jim

Aperitif: 2001 Chat. Val Joanis, Cotes du Luberon Rose: Salmon colored, lightly aromatic, bone dry, pleasant but somewhat thin flavors for drinking now. Innocuous, but at least it doesn’t require food. Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. With radicchio risotto and a green salad: 1999 Rochioli, Pinot Noir Russian River Valley: Ripe and sweet, concentrated, dense, varietally correct pinot that either has no character or has one I don’t like. Good wine (albeit a bit too much alcohol at 14.2%) but not my style. Another day . . . With tuna salad: 2000 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allees VV: Day one; closed and acidic, recorked and put in the refrigerator; Day two; expansive nose of lime zest, sea shells, fresh air and mineral; bright in the mouth with very deep flavors that follow the nose, focused and intense, concentrated, well balanced and even some complexity; quite long and clean on the finish. Glorious wine that made me feel like I was dining at the shore on a sunny and breezy day. Great with the dish and decades of life left. Imported by Louis Dressner. Best, Jim

With spinach pizza: 1999 Aldo Conterno, Barbera D’Alba: Barbera-esque nose with plum, spice and vinous elements combining for an integrated and voluptuous nose; flavors follow the nose in a smooth, broad but shallow profile that despite sufficient acidity gives a soft impression; good persistence. Aside from the acidity, there is no structure evident here and hence, I would not cellar this wine even a year. To my palate, a sort of nouveau barbera; certainly not unpleasant but with little to bring me back. Even so, I suspect this a wine that many folks will love if served with food. Imported by Vias Imports. Drink now. Aside: this continues a long streak of barberas that have little or no appeal. Does anybody know of a wine made from this variety that is worth my time/money? Best, Jim

With meat loaf and all the fixin’s: 1996 Clos Marie, Les Glorieuses: This Pic Saint Loup has a warm fruit nose with saline, some sour oak and mineral tones; its attack is mouth-watering and the flavors follow the nose (absent the wood) but it all comes apart at mid-palate as the alcohol (14% on the label) morphs it into some brandy-esque grotesque; short, hot finish. This stuff now sells from three to four times the $20 paid for this bottle on release. If it continues these super-ripe alcohol levels, it isn’t worth what I paid. Imported by Eric Solomon. 1999 Eric Texier, Cotie-Rotie VV: The Chave of Cote-Rotie; damn this is good! Utterly captivating nose of ash tray, olive, aquarium, warm plums, red fruit, mineral, salt; with every element in complete harmony and balanced with all the others; delineated, layered, complex and expansive (hold on kids, it gets better); Medium bodied with penetrating intensity on the palate, a nod toward rusticity but nothing out of place or noticeably tannic or over-powering, flavors follow the nose and seem to burst on the tongue, well structured, very complex, balanced to perfection, and doing that voodoo that only great wine can do – finesse in the face of power, strong flavors that never intrude on one another and form a complete whole, the ever present sense of the particular earth where it was grown despite ripe (but never over-ripe fruit), depth in sync with breadth, and so on, and so on . . .; Long, strong finish. Imported by Louis-Dressner (then). One of those, “now that I have you, buckle your seat belt, amigo, because you’re about to find out what an E ticket is” type wines that takes you where you have never been but doesn’t leave the track. Benchmark Cote-Rotie. One of the smartest (read luckiest) things I ever did was to buy a case of this. Decades of life ahead. If I were king of the world this would be my house red. Oh my! Best, Jim

With crudités with dill dressing and parmesan crusted chicken breasts: 2001 Egon Muller, Riesling Kabinett Scharzhofberger: (AP # 3 567 142-3-02) Flowery and stony at the same time with some lemon zest scents; very lightly sweet with flavors that follow the nose with good depth but its all still pretty tightly coiled, intense, bright, balanced and medium length. Imported by Frederick Wildman. Clean, young and tight yet delicious. Several years will benefit. With pot roast and all the trimmings: 2001 Dom. le Sang des Cailloux, Vacqueyras Cuvee Floureto: Smells like warm, salty cherries (in a good way) with some beef jerky and dried leaf tones; full bodied and structured but well balanced, flavorful in the same manner as the nose and a dense, worsted texture; good length. Imported by Kermit Lynch. Just wonderful with the meal; an excellent pairing worth repeating. Although not as structured as the Cuvee Lopey, this wine has a mid-term future and is clearly of its place. With crudités and cheese: NV Mont Marcal, Cava Rose Brut Reserva: Smells and tastes a lot like some one mixed fruit juice with tonic water; has a fleeting element of old sneakers on the palate that is not a part of the nose; an odd sort of wine with little to discredit or tout it. Imported by Classical wines, Seattle, WA. Not objectionable but not something to seek out. With pasta with brown butter, pine nuts, fresh parmesan and cold parmesan crusted chicken breasts: 2002 Principassa, Gavi: Clean, light white fruit nose; the same on the palate with a pleasant finesse and balance; medium length. Imported by Banfi Vintners. Perfect with the dish but rather non-descript by itself. Still, worth having for moments when light and lacy are required. With Caesar salad: 2002 Pazo de Senorans, Albarino: Spicy on the nose with white fruit and mineral tones; clean, crystal clear elements that follow the nose and charming balance; good length. Imported by European Cellars. Lovely wine that matched well with the salad (how many times does that happen?) and tasted great by itself. Ready now. Best, Jim

Agreed. Not just us old guys are going a bit lighter, even a good number of youngsters seem to be thinking that way. Best, Jim

Boris, Kreydenweiss - yep, that's the producer but this was a vineyard designated wine. I wish I'd have been more attentive but the company and food was just so good . . . The Zweigelt was soft in the mouth but it had a nice bright bite toward the finish (maybe the pinot?). I don't know how this is priced (this bottle was a gift) but it is worth revisiting. And of course, I love Gamay so its right down my alley. That Gurner, on release, was simply the most complex wine I had ever had, red or white. It has lost that intensely layered profile but has lost nothing of its concentration. I am pleased to have a couple for another time. Best, Jim

With Father’s Day in the offing, I decided to head back to FL to spend it with my daughter. Her husband is visiting his relatives out of state and I would get her mostly to myself. Of course, I would be leaving the cool, lush mountains and driving into an oven but then, some things are worth taking the heat. First stop, Mom and Dad’s just outside Sevierville, TN. I get in just in time for dinner which is roasted pork loin and Grandma’s potato salad. (I could spend several paragraphs talking about this salad, its history, how good it is, etc., but suffice it to say, nothing could be finer.) Along with, I break out the 2003 Pepiere, Muscadet and a 2002 Coudert, Fleurie. Mom doesn’t like a lot of red wine, although I give her props for at least tasting the ones I open. But the Muscadet is the big hit with both Mom and Dad; bright, fresh and flavorful, it is very quickly drained. The red is the best match with the meal with plenty of fruit and stone scents and flavors and that little overlay of ladies face powder that seems a signature of Gamay – Mom says its raspberries and I can’t argue that. Good length, too. The following day I’m off to Atlanta to meet Bill Bounds and Bob Fleming for dinner at Nam, a Vietnamese restaurant that is at the same quality level as Slanted Door in SF. Bill gets tied up at his art gallery/residence with a group of charity supporters so Bill’s wife, Sue Sue, and Bob and I head out to dinner and take along a really exquisite Kradenweiss (sp?), Riesling (I had forgotten my pen and that’s all I can remember) that is sparklingly pure and sensational with the cuisine. I also grab a 2001 Knoll, Gruner Veltliner Vinothekenfullung which is the very essence of gruner but not showing near the complexity it did on release. My remaining bottles shall remain untouched for many moons. Back at Bill and Sue Sue’s place, the party is starting to break-up and when Bill sees we have brought him take-out, we all gather at the dining table and open a Chapellet, Chenin Blanc (please, help me with the vintage Bob) that is simply one of the best bargains in domestic wine I can think of. Lovely aromatics, clean and pure in the mouth and ready now. When the call goes out for red, we taste the 1999 Drouhin, Volnay Clos de Chenes and although it is showing young, it is smooth and fruit-filled with an underlying minerality – there isn’t much doubt its Volnay. Next morning, after breakfast at Thumb’s Up with the lads, I turn southbound and roll into St. Petersburg just in time for the heat of the day – ah yes, this is why I spend summers in the mountains. George comes over to say hi and we open a 375 of 2002 Drouhin, Macon-Villages which soothes my traffic jangled nerves and gets his evening off to a pleasant start. It’s a calm little thing but it rises above being a generically quaffable wine with its clarity and focus. George comes back a bit later with a glass of Pinotage that he wants me to try; oh my goodness, its colored mineral spirits! This is the most volatile wine I’ve ever tried and it takes more than a little effort to actually sip it and even more to smile at George after. He leaves, I spit. ‘Sorry; but I won’t be getting the name of that one. Later, I order a bacon pizza from out favorite place here and Jennifer (my daughter) comes over to help me eat it (its nice having her back in the neighborhood). We enjoy a bottle of the 2003 Markowitsch, Carnuntum-Cuvee, which is an Austrian blend of Zweigelt (sp?) and Pinot Noir. Warm and smooth with excellent ripeness and a little cut toward the finish, this wine certainly shows how warm the vintage was. Charming stuff; thanks Larry. Man, I love to travel. Best, Jim

With tomato and mozzarella salad: 2002 Dom. de la Petite Cassagne, Rose:: Clean, dry and unexciting. Tolerable for me, better for Diane. Imported by Robert Kacher. 2003 Abbazia di Novacella, P{inot Gris: Clean, correct, reasonably open and fleshy with little to distinguish it and little to complain about. Imported by Vias Imports. With grilled wild salmon with roasted Vidalia onions and mushrooms with fresh arugala: 2000 Drouhin, Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses: Beginning to close down but still full of black fruit and solidly Chambolle. Imported by Drayfus Ashby. 1999 Chevillon, Les Saint-Georges: Young, coiled and showing better than the Amoureuses; powerful scents of black fruit, spice, stones and light hints of red fruit; deep but still pure and solid Nuits fruit with light complexity and good persistence. A decade before its ready but clearly the WOTN. Imported by Robert Kacher. Best, Jim

With crackers and cheese: 2001 Donnhoff, Riesling (Qba): Taut, lyrical, mouthwatering, 9.5% alcohol and $13; why did I not buy ten cases instead of two? Aromas of stones, orange peel, pears and lemon drops; light bodied, smooth but bright, utterly clean and perfectly balanced; good persistence. Not a deep or otherwise powerful wine but one of finesse and focus. Imported by Michael Skurnik. On a slightly overcast day with a beautiful, cooling breeze and temperatures in the 60’s it is both refreshing and calming to sit on the deck and sip this delightful wine. Ah, the places the mind goes at such times . . . With baked, wild salmon and new potatoes: 1998 Raptor Ridge, Pinot Noir Murto Vineyard: Unsweetened blackberry soda – if you can imagine that, you understand the dominant aroma and taste; some spice and red fruit hints, bright in the mouth, fleshy and well-integrated, very slightly closed but excellent balance and intensity; medium length. Good with the dish. Several years ago, a local store closed this out for $9; a tasty wine that has a clear signature and can develop for several more years easily. Such a deal! Best, Jim

1997 Trimbach, Riesling Cuvee Fredric Emile (375): Softer than I expected; a smooth texture (though not in the least flabby) with broad, somewhat tropical flavors, good delineation and excellent balance. Showing well, if less intense than expected. Imported by Seagrams Chateau. This wine in this format lends itself perfectly to starter courses. 1989 Lynch Bages: A complex nose shows some mature elements; becomes more vegetal with air yet never loses that aromatic complexity; full bodied with relatively plush tannins, good balance, excellent complexity and plenty of flesh; less vegetal in the mouth, concentrated, layered and long. Imported by Kobrand. In its youth, this was a dramatic, fruit-intense wine that was so well balanced there was no mistaking its breed. It has aged in stages; this one seems to be slightly more vegetal than some but it also reveals a bit of the depth that comes to maturing Bordeaux. For myself, I will wait several more years for the next bottle as I expect the vegetal elements to recede. Clearly, the wine has many years ahead of it and, I suspect, several more incarnations. What a joy to be able to follow them. 1999 Bizot, Echezeaux (375): Completely closed; it’s thin, acidic, vinous and opens very little with air. Had I not tasted this at release and found it deeply flavored and complex, I would dismiss it today if tasted blind. Do not open. Imported by Old Vine Imports. Best, Jim

Jim, If Utagawa's tannin-umami synergy is valid, why not Pauillac? Perhaps it is no accident that he has chosen a red wine, Burgundy, that depends as much on acid as on tannin for its structure? Joe, Good point. Older Burgs. do make more sense in that light. BTW, have you ever tried these types of pairings or heard of this "cuisine of subtraction" before? I have no idea why it has caught my eye but there is something, I don't know, "original" in the idea (I think). And original is a rare commodity. Best, Jim

With salad and parmesan-herb bread: NV Zardetto, Prosecco Brut: Light and airy, off-dry and not the least cloying, sufficient mineral-earth flavors and scents to keep it interesting, clean finish. Lunch wine, extraordinaire. Best served very cold. Imported by Winebow. With cauliflower soup with truffle oil and sautéed shitakes: 1999 Chevillon, Roncieres: Giving nothing out of the bottle; decanted two hours and the wine was meaty, robust and rich with identifiable Nuits’ scents and flavors, good concentration and very good length. Deserves considerable aging but, if opened soon, does pretty well after a long decant. The difference after two hours in the decanter was defining; first, it was as substantial a change as I have experienced, and, second, it is clearly indicative of this wine’s potential. Imported by Kermit Lynch. With veggie burgers: 1999 Earl Alain Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Non-Filtre: Black fruit, stones and spice very tightly coiled and concentrated; good depth and balance, substantial structure and length but not even close to being ready to drink. Deserves a decade. Pretty intense stuff, this has closed down since release and seems to be following that trend for the better Cru Beaujolais of the ’99 vintage, most of which seem to be doing likewise. On release, this bottle cost me $13, including shipping charges from NY. I have been able to repeat this kind of QPR very seldom; an amazing value and an amazing wine. Imported by Becky Wasserman. Best, Jim

It will make no difference. Producers will release in trenches (thereby adjusting prices upward as they go) and retailers will mark it up accordingly. Parker is a fact of life; one deals with him or one lives a fantasy. For me, the best way to deal with him is to ignore him completely. Thus, I base my buying decisions on the quality I taste and the price I can afford. Of course, buying en primier is impossible my way but there is more than enough great wine available to make-up for it. One man's opinion. Best, Jim

Don, I've heard others say that. Its been at least a decade since I've had a mixed drink - that's not intentional, its just I like wine so much more. Best, Jim

Aperitif: 2003 Planeta, La Segreta (bianco): Even more ripe, fruit forward and luscious than the recently tasted ’02 with good acids and a freshness that such just released wines sometimes have. Delicious juice. Imported by Vias Imports. With risotto alla Milanese: 1999 Produttori de Barbaresco, Barbaresco: Ripe and quite forward with an expansive nose and a rich, integrated palate; very concentrated, smooth in the mouth, almost hidden structure, some complexity and good length. A little hard to believe it shows this well this young. A fine bottle now; I wonder if it will age? Imported by Vias Imports. With parmesan crusted chicken breasts with summer squash: 1997 Il Podre Dell’ Olivos, Teroldego: This central coast blend is relatively simple on the nose and palate, smooth in the mouth, richly textured and clearly done in the California style. Certainly, there is nothing wrong with the wine and I see how one of our guests found it voluptuous but I thought it boring. My loss. With cheese plate: 1998 Cantina del Pino, Barbaresco “Ovello”: A brooding and serious nebbiolo with depth, structure and intensity; substantially more complex than the Prodttori and in need of continued aging, this is developing into a magnificent example of Barbaresco. I should have bought more, but that was then . . . Imported by Cavatappi Distribuzione of Kirkland, WA. With sautéed bananas with macadamia nuts and yogurt cheese: 1972 Bodegas Toro Albala, P.X. Gran Reserva (375): The best showing for this wine in the last three years; perfectly balanced sweetness and acidity, deeply flavored, oily texture and endless finish. ‘Killer with the dish. Imported by Classical Wines of Seattle, WA. Best, Jim

With a pasta dish that included wilted Swiss chard, onions, black olives, garlic, white beans and pecorino, with a side dish of sautéed Swiss chard stems with melted pecorino: 2002 Casa Brina, Ruche: Translucent in appearance and transparent in delivery; red fruit, loam, mineral, humus, spice and heaven knows what else, all seemingly suspended on an almost gossamer structure; clean and crisp with solid backing acidity and endless complexity. Reminiscent of Bourgogne in weight but the nose and palate are clearly Piedmont. Charming, interesting and excellent with the dish. Imported by Vini Italia. 2000 Louis Michel, Les Clos: Sneaky wine. At first, a sort of calm, straight-forward Chablis with extraordinary balance. With air, layers of flint, distant smoke, lemon balm, fresh crushed herbs and other alluring scents and flavors arrive and the palate takes on density as the nose becomes more expansive – it’s as though its growing in the glass A wine with a coiled spine that never loses its balance yet becomes something entirely different than initial tastes indicate. Needs several, if not many, years. Imported by Vineyard Brands. (BTW, no trees were harmed in its production.) With fresh, wonderfully ripe strawberries and peaches with crème fraiche: 2002 Huet, Le Mont Demi-sec: Beginning to retreat from its fruit (earlier bottles were bursting with white fruit) into its stoney, mineral elements; still the off-dry but structured palate and the fresh, somewhat floral nose are great accompaniment with the fruit. Nowhere near ready to display its wares, it is still the wine of the night. A match I will write down and use again. Imported by Robert Chadderdon. Best, Jim

Of course, if Utagawa's tannin-umami synergy is valid, wines with tannin would be required; hence, the young, weightier models. Craig I appreciate your comments. As Steven says, that is certainly what I would have thought absent his experience. And that "flip-side" needs to be part of this thread. But if we keep an open mind here (and I'm not saying you're not), then previous pairing guidelines must yield to new experiences. I was not in the room and have yet to be convinced. But I have tried some pretty odd pairings in my day and have found a few that meet no guideline I've ever heard of. I plan on exploring Utagawa's theories over the next several months and trying some of them. I'll post as I go. Maybe pirate's right; maybe its just a ploy. But maybe this is something exciting that is outside the box. We'll see. Best, Jim

With a lunch of turkey slices; raw carrots and red peppers, olives, crackers and cheese: 2003 Dom. de la Pepiere, Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur Lie: Those looking for austere, steely, acidic Muscadet need not apply; this is ripe, luscious but still bright in the mouth with beautiful floral and sea shell scents; clean, concentrated and long. A delicious bottle of wine that is ready now but will last; for $10! Imported by Louis/Dressner. With herb and bread-crumb crusted baked cod: 2002 Verget, Saint-Veran “Les Clos”: Candied lemon scented nose that is both vinous and reticent, some herb tones and ever so slightly volatile; similar on the palate with good balance, little depth and a smooth mouthfeel; medium length finish. Straight-forward, clean, correct and pleasant with the meal but lacking complexity and comes across rather non-descript. Could be from anywhere. Once again, I am under whelmed by Verget. Imported by The Stacole Co. 2002 Clos Roche Blanche, Gamay: This has been open for over 40 hours (recorked and put back in the cellar) and has taken on more flesh and depth than when first opened; still distinctly Loire wine with an herbaceous element that plays on both the nose and palate but never really steps over into “green,” this wine seems more like cabernet franc than gamay with the same kind of density, power and structure along with the herb tones often associated with the variety; excellent concentration and balance and good length. A wine that is not, and will never be, for everyone but it is so clearly of its place that I’m almost dancing for joy that I have some in the cellar. A long and idiosyncratic future. Imported by Louis/Dressner. Best, Jim