Florida Jim

(I thought this was a good enough topic to merit its own thread - so it is split from the $100 bottle thread - Craig Camp) I'm not sure if this bulletin board as a search feature but the Westcoast Wine Net board does (http://www.westcoastwine.net/forums/) so you could just plug-in Florida Jim as "author" and get every note I have ever written. If you stay within the last several years, the vast majority will be under $20. However, for a more concise list, see the following: Over the past several years, most of what I buy is $20 and under. I have a fairly substantial cellar full of wines that are maturing and I need things to drink now or age short term. The following is a list of those $20 and under wines which I enjoy the most and buy by the case. Caveats: - I dislike the smell and taste of wood so most of these do not see any new wood and the ones that do, it is quite limited. None of these will exhibit much oak influence. -I rely upon these wines in virtually every vintage. Whites: Light and crisp: Bruno Giacosa, Roero Arneis $18 Julian Meyer, Pinot Gris $10 Anselmi, San Vicenzo $9 Zenato, Lugana “San Benedetto” $9 Pieropan, Soave $10 Donnhoff, Estate Riesling $15 Stronger flavors: Baumard, Savennieres $12 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino $14 Luneau-Papin Muscadet “Clos de Allees VV” $11 Dom. Pepiere, Muscadet $9 Smooth and round: J.P. Brun, Terres Dorees Beaujolais Blanc $11 Reds: Elegant and gentle: Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Willamette Valley $20 Robert Chevillon, Bourgogne $18 Michel Lafarge, Bourgogne $20 Lindeman’s, Bin 99, Pinot Noir $6 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Non-Filtre $10 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Prestige $18 Coudert, Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie $18 J.P. Brun, Terres Dorees Beaujolais L’Ancien VV $13 Stronger flavors and structure: B. Palacios Remondo, Rioja “La Vendimia” $12 Abbaye de Tholomies, Minervois $12 Dom. Montaude, Minervois $8 Dom. Petite Cassagne, Costieres de Nimes $12 Big and rich: Zenato, Valpolicella Ripassa $17 Morgante, Nero d’Avola $10 Best, Jim

Craig, There are great wines at all price points. I have had $10 bottles I much preferred to those at $250. I do not believe there is any correlation, other than marketing, between price and quality; definitely not quality. Many folks disagree with me on this last comment. Nonetheless, I continue to make it; 'glutton for punishment People "should" buy whatever they want and can reasonably afford. I have no problem with folks that charge $100 and up for their wine, they just won't be getting my money. I have no problem with folks paying big money for wine, I can't. For me personally, there are lots of other things in my life that are more important to me and that is where I put my disposable cash. But that is just my choice, based on my beliefs and I am not in charge. BTW, these days my "break" point is $20; if I pay more than $20 a bottle, it is a rare moment. Best, Jim

With buffalo mozzarella, fresh tomatoes, basil and capers with a side of lightly dressed greens and crostini: 2002 Zenato, Lugana “San Benedetto”: Moderate aromatics of apples, pears and flowers; becomes more expansive as it warms/ Medium body, flavors follow the nose with some citrus accents, pleasant acidity, smooth and concentrated texturally, nice balance/ Medium length, very clean finish. Excellent wine both by itself and with the food and completely ready to drink now. About $9, retail. With vegetarian lasagna and a side of Italian sausages: 2000 Zenato, Valpolicella Ripassa: Smells lightly of Amarone but also of red fruit and spice/ Medium body, again hints of Amarone but emphasizes its fruit and spice traits, smooth and balanced if somewhat linear/ Medium finish. About $15, discounted. Good with the meal but the next wine dwarfed it. and, 1998 Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo “Zanna”: Beautiful nose of black and red fruit, dust, underbrush, mushroom and mineral; interesting to say the least/ Medium body, flavors follow the nose and are completely integrated, excellent concentration, good complexity, fairly compact in the mouth but perfectly balanced/ Very long and balanced finish. Sensational wine that is anything but one note and yet is so perfectly balanced that everything seems to be of whole cloth. Slightly reminiscent of Brunello but not as structured. Really lovely wine that I will have to hunt for; anyone know where and how much? Price unknown. Best, Jim

Rodney, While storage is always an issue, if this bottle was cellared well you have the wine of the vintage. I have had a case of that wine since release and it has always shown well. Drink up. Best, Jim

With smoked salmon spread and crackers: 2002 Dom. de Chantemerle (Boudin), Chablis Fourchaume: As it warmed, the rather feminine nose became expansive with floral, lime zest, flint and peach scents and hints of mineral/ Medium body, very fresh on the palate with flavors that repeat the nose and add lemon juice and pear notes, medium concentration, bright acidity, nice integration (actually better than expected for a wine so young) and excellent balance/ Medium length, very clean finish. Although this needs a couple years in the cellar, it is also delicious and even has some complexity now. About $26, delivered, and very good with the spread it also was excellent with the following course. With baked wild salmon and a barley, kale and gruyere gratin: 2000 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Willamette Valley: Very complex nose of fresh oregano, red fruits, earth, truffle, mineral and smoke; both Diane and I thought it arresting and really enjoyed smelling this as much as drinking it/ Medium body, very complex on the palate that echoed the nose and emphasized the fruit tones (where the nose had emphasized the non-fruit elements), delineated yet round and mouth-filling, texturally silky, has an appealing brightness, intense, perfect balance/ Medium length finish. Lacking only grand cru concentration, this wine could easily convince me it was twenty year old Amoureuses. All this finesse and perfume in an elegantly styled, genuinely great wine showing at peak; wow! About $20, delivered. Best, Jim

With roast pork tenderloin, green peas and a mushroom risotto gratin: 1993 Laurel Glen, Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain: Very fine nose of cassis, dust, black fruit and light earth; interestingly complex/ Full body but delineated and cleanly compact, silt-like tannins, flavors are beautifully fruit-sweet without giving any indication of over-ripeness, excellent concentration and balance, showing some appealing secondary character/ Amazing length. A superb wine that paired perfectly with the meal, this is entering a “ready-to-drink” stage but is in no danger decline. As good a cabernet sauvignon based wine as I have had in the past year. About $40, retail on release. Best, Jim

That's the ticket; lighter wines with food affinity. Again, thanks. Best, Jim

Suggestions greatly appreciated; I am just learning about Italian wines and I will search these out. And thanks for the kind words. Best, JIm

With cheese and crackers: 2002 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: Aromas of melon, apple, tonic water, stones and a light floral scent/ Medium body, flavors follow the nose and are slightly tight, although smooth on the palate this is bright in the mouth, almost nervous, good concentration and excellent balance/ Medium length, very clean finish with an element of white pepper. Does anyone know if this is one of the cuvees that Anselmi blends with Chardonnay? It does seem to have that feel to it. This wine probably needs a year or two to be at full song yet it was also lovely as a starter. About $14. With mushroom risotto: 2001 Bruno Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: (this is not the Valmaggiore designated wine) Lovely nose of dried cherries, loam, roses and a hint of spice/ Medium body, flavors follow the nose with nice complexity and a little of that rising and falling of flavors that I find so interesting, fine tannins are evident but not drying, the mid-palate as an elegance that gives this wine a lacey feel in the mouth, good intensity and concentration, nice balance/ Medium length, slightly drying finish. Paired with the risotto, this wine was several measures more succulent than it was without food. Another pairing that makes both the wine and the food dimensionally better. About $18. Aside: I think it was Ed Becker who first drew my attention to the fact that Nebbiolo has much in common with Pinot Noir. It makes such an aromatic wine and yet it retains a sense of fineness and style in the mouth; it can be, with time, almost ethereal. Then too, both make wines that seem as though they were only created to go with food. I have not actually tracked the contents of my cellar for the whole of the approximately 20 years I have had it, but I do notice that, for red wines, it has tended more and more to wines made of these two grapes or varieties that have similar character traits. And the fact that one can still buy a wine as intriguing as this one from Giacosa for under $20, is not lost on me. Wonderful wines. Best, Jim

2002 Tiefenbrunner, Chardonnay (Alto Adige): A clean Chardonnay nose; a little lemon zest and pear, a touch of vanilla and some mineral/ medium body in the mouth but racy with crisp acids, flavors that follow the nose adding a spiciness not found in the nose, good concentration and intensity, balanced/ medium long, clean finish with spicy after-tones. According to the website this is 100% Chardonnay fermented and aged in stainless – I think not. If this doesn’t see a little wood (perhaps a “tea bag”) then I’d say there’s some Pinot Grigio mixed in. Nonetheless, this is crisp and elegant with a pleasant spicy dryness that adds a level of complexity not found in similarly priced Chards. For instance, Brun’s ’02 Beaujolais blanc (about $11), has more depth and texture and less spice; still it’s well structured and delivers another quality version of unwooded Chard. At about $9, retail, this is a good accompaniment to food and, as it warms, pretty good on its own. This house also does a Gewertz. and Pinot Grigio at similar price points that are worth checking out. Its proximity to the Austrian border accounts for its not so Italian name. 2002 Anselmi, San Vincenzo: Smelling of apples, melon, flint and a hint of resin, this wine is fatter and rounder than most Soave while still bright and clean on the palate. The flavors follow the nose with a pleasant dry-ripeness and perfect balance. The finish is of medium length and leaves the mouth refreshed. Although this producer no longer uses the Soave designation (due to unapproved viticultural practices) this wine is clearly of its place. And it is just delicious. About $9, retail, this was excellent with chicken nachos and lovely on its own. Delightful. Best, Jim

Or at least, that was my response when Diane told me what we were having for dinner last night. It did not sound appetizing, although I supposed it would be “good for me.” The side dish was a layered concoction of mashed potatoes, mushroom pesto and beet greens and beet green stems. The entrée was fish cakes made with leftover salmon and Mahi-mahi. She made a white sauce with capers for the cakes. Okay, . . . what wine goes with that? I chose a 1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Willamette Valley. When I opened the wine it smelled predominantly of burnt stems with a touch of red fruit hiding behind all the vegetation. On the palate it was better but nothing to get excited about with moderate red fruit tones and just a touch of that earthy/stemmy quality. It was texturally pleasing and light on its feet but “wow” was not the first word that came to mind. But then, we had the meal with the wine in accompaniment. I can’t remember a better meal with more delicious and complex tastes or a wine that more perfectly balanced and complimented the food. I’m talking three-star stuff here. The fish cakes had a wonderful texture and a crisp, brown crust; the sauce accented the taste but did not overwhelm. And the potato-based side dish was just exquisite – perfectly balanced flavors; elements of bitter, bland, earthiness along with different textures – it was utterly sublime. With the food, the wine blossomed into a lovely, lilting, bright fruit extension of those flavors. It was a perfectly balanced pairing; better than any other particular pairing I can ever remember. I was blown away. Great food is, indeed, the first enjoyment of life. For those of you that know me, you also know that I am given to poetic license. But, in this instance, I swear; I take no license with these words – that was as good a meal as I have ever had. No kidding. Best, Jim PS There are no recipes as such; both these dishes came from what we had in the house, including leftovers and Diane’s sense of what worked. ‘Sorry; I can’t tell you how she did it. Ain’t that always the way with magic?

2000 J. Drouhin, St. Veran (375 ml): Slightly oxidized and a bit short; I’m guessing this got cooked. There’s some good stuff amongst the flaws but I see why this was being closed out at $2. 1998 La Spinona Barbaresco “Bricco Faset”: Traditional Barbaresco aromatics with a floral component and dried cherries, some unsweetened chocolate hints and a slight burnt tar element/ Medium body with flavors that follow the nose, a certain elegance off-set by a good dose of drying tannin, slightly unfocused/ Drying finish. Somewhat muddled and obviously opened to early but since this too was being closed out ($20), I wanted to see what it was like in case I wanted more. A bit odd but enjoyable nonetheless. 1994 LaJota, Cabernet Franc: Smells of ripe black fruit, dark chocolate and earth; has a smooth texture and a powerful presence in the mouth which is almost port-like; flavors follow the nose, substantial concentration which lends to the texture, good intensity, structured and port-like length. A wine better suited for flavorful food (in this case, a pan fried pork steak was a good match) with elements of oak on the palate that would normally send me away – but this wine handles it, especially with food. Not even a hint of green. No rush to open this but nothing to stop you. About $45, delivered, at release. 2000 Brundlmayer, Riesling Heiligstein Lyra: Very intense nose of sappy oleander, potting soil, white fruit and spice/ Medium-full body, excellent concentration without being ponderous, flavors follow the nose, intense, more open than the last bottle, complex, good balance/ Very long finish that reprises the flavors. With a spicy vegetable stir-fry with rice noodles and peanut sauce, this was just superb. Such a balanced and complimentary pairing energizes the whole experience. About $22, discounted. 2002 Casa Brina, Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato: “My, that smells good!” were Diane’s first words; a really charming nose of raspberry, strawberry, peat moss and mineral lead to an elegant, silky mouthful of flavors that follow the nose with complexity and some depth. Translucent, lightweight but intense, nice length and good with grilled Mahi-mahi; very pretty. A versatile bottle that is delicious and interesting with or without food. About $16, discounted. 2000 Morgante, Nero d’Avola (Sicily): The nose reminds me of dark chocolate covered cherries with unsweetened cocoa powder dusted on top; develops raspberry, blackberry, earth and tar scents with airing/ Full body, rich, forward and texturally smooth, flavors follow the nose with some complexity and more emphasis on the black fruit and tar elements, good concentration, structured with very fine tannins, well integrated and balanced/ Medium length finish that is not drying despite evident tannins. Ready now and a delight. If you have this with food, I suggest strongly flavored food, but it is also delicious (albeit substantial) by itself. Very well made and yummy. About $11, full retail. Best, Jim

I don't get around all that much but the best restaurant list of Austrians I've seen is the Slanted Door in San Francisco. And it matches their Cal-Vietnamese cuisine quite well. Best, Jim

Actually, it's more like those damn cars with ten times as much sound system as needed. 'Wish I had a bazooka . . . Best, Jim

What is "it?" Best, Jim

1987 Chat. Montelena, Cabernet Sauvignon: Not showing well; some chemical overlay on the nose which did not blow off and was distracting; fairly nice on the palate albeit still a little tannic; dry finish. I have had better bottles but frankly, never one that has lived up to its reputation. Price unknown. 2000 Dom. de la Petite Cassagne, Costieres de Nimes: A delicious Rhone style wine with old world flavors and smells, some complexity and nice balance. Drinking well now and at $9, this is a buy by the case item. Good with and without food. 2001 Dom. Montaude, Minervois: I think this one is starting to close up. The last two bottles have been more about structure than the first bottles I opened. Also, those last two bottles showed better the second day (re-corked and left on the counter overnight). Still a tasty wine but better with food. ‘Time to put these in the cellar and come back in a year. About $8, discounted. 1993 Vincent Arroyo, Cabernet Sauvignon Res.: I am not a fan of Cabernet Sauvignon much less those from CA but this is the exception. A warm blackberry, black currant, blueberry mix is accented with light strawberry, dark unsweetened chocolate, a touch of allspice and very light earth tones on both the nose and palate. Excellent concentration, fine tannins, good structure, balance and a medium length finish are all well knit together yet layered. There is even some bottle bouquet and secondary development. At $25 on release, delivered, a delicious wine with or without food that has many years left. Enjoyed with turkey meat loaf and cauliflower puree with truffle oil – excellent. 2001 Zenato, Lugana “San Benedetto”: A lovely wine. A nose of apples and a slight grassiness leads to rich, deep flavors in a concentrated, viscous texture. Nice backing acidity that never comes to the foreground and a round, soft mouth-feel that never turns flabby. Quite a mouthful and nice length to boot. Trebbiano di Soave really is different from trebbiano toscano. Good with or without food. About $10, discounted. 1990 Dom. Pichot, Vouvray Moelleux: A watery version of a demi-sec showing none of its age and little else to get excited about. Quaffable but just. About $20, close-out. 2001 Belle Pente, Riesling: Flowers, apples and minerals on the nose, with clear domestic Riesling flavors on the palate and a malic bite. The 2000 was more my preference with better balance and depth but this was still miles ahead of the aforementioned Vouvray with Indian food. About $15, delivered. Best, Jim

With pork steaks, baked acorn squash and corn: 2000 Brundlmayer, Riesling Zobinger Heiligenstein Lyra: This juice is very dense, structured and deeply fruited. Aromatics include oleander, white fruit and mineral elements whereas the palate is all about deep and broad fruit. Immense concentration, intense, bright acids and quite long, this wine will last a very long time. Very good with the meal. About $22, on sale. With pasta with white beans, onions, red peppers, parmesan and good olive oil: 1998 Raptor Ridge, Pinot Noir Murto Vineyard: This wine is finally coming into balance after several years of emphasizing its structure. Pleasant, albeit simple black fruit aromas lead to a mouthful of black fruit and spice flavors with good concentration, subtle tannins and good length. For those familiar with Belle Pente’s version of pinot from this vineyard, this bears a clear resemblance, especially on the palate. ‘Could use another couple years of age but fairly accessible now. Good with the food. About $9, on close-out. With leftover pork loin and couscous croquettes: 2001 Donnhoff Riesling Estate (QbA): Sweetly floral on the nose with some citrus tones, the palate has at least kabinett level sweetness with good acidity in a light bodied, elegant presentation. There is a savory, round mineral element in the mouth lending complexity. The tension between sugar and acid is balanced and pretty, and it finishes cleanly. This is still several years from being fully ready. Good with the food. About $13, discounted. Best, Jim

Several weren't mine. The ones I know are: Brun $12 Dom. Montaude $8 Cloudy Bay, restaurant price $39 Boudin $26 Quintarelli $150 The others I don't know. Best, Jim

Yesterday, we went to Boca Grande, a small, once tumble-down island fishing village now up-scaled by an influx of retirees. It still retains its rustic charm despite the development. Bob Cuozzi was in residence at a condo there and he was kind enough to accommodate us overnight and fix us dinner. When we arrived, we went into town to the Temptation restaurant for fried oysters, grouper fingers and a bottle of the 2002 Cloudy Bay, Sauvignon Blanc. The food was fresh and delicious and the wine was a mineral, grapefruit juice bomb – yummy. ‘Back to the condo for a walk on the beach and a little reading in a lounge chair down by the surf to wile away the afternoon. In what can only be described as “leisurely dining” we enjoyed several courses with several wines: With Perail cheese, a sheep’s milk cheese, on rustic bread toast we opened the 1996 Peter Michael, Chardonnay Cuvee Indigene and it was perfect. A little woody and weak at mid-palate in the absence of the food, this took on a spicy edge and better depth when paired with the food. We also opened a 2002 Dom. Chantemerle (Boudin), Chablis Fourchaume that had a reticent citrus and fresh thyme nose and a slim, fairly closed palate that echoed the nose. As the evening progressed, this wine developed very nicely adding pears and peaches to the nose and palate as well as greater texture in the mouth and length; it was especially good with the capon. Bob whipped up a little homemade chicken liver pate on toast and we opened a bottle of 2001 Tablas Creek, Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc which is 44% Rousanne, 22% Viognier, 18% Grenache and 16% Marsanne, or so the label claims. Alone this wine was a bit out of focus and had a little bit of a resinous quality but with the pate, all of its elements seemed to marry nicely and that resin element departed. We set the table and Bob served roast capon with herbs, braised endive, sautéed leeks and rice pilaf with almonds and golden raisins. To accompany, a 2002 Terres Dorees (J.P. Brun), Beaujolais L’Ancien VV was a perfect match and the 2001 Dom. Montaude, Minervois although deeply flavored and rich was a little too structured to match as well as the Brun. Both excellent wines, just one better with this meal. And as mentioned, the Chablis was stellar with the capon. After the feast, we settled in to watch the movie “Adaptation” which I never quite got a hold of but we also set out some cheeses and Bob rewarded us with a bottle of the 1995 Quintarelli, Amarone. An utterly heavenly nose lead to a palate that was rich and deep and had absolutely no raisin or prune tones; nothing cooked or overripe in any degree, despite its 15% alcohol. This wine is fully integrated, perfectly balanced and the best example of its type I have had. A life list wine. And then, to bed . . . Best, Jim

Updates on inexpensive bottles: 2001 Trimbach, Pinot Blanc: Innocuous. Nothing to complain about, nothing to take notice of. Standard grade stuff that’s best attribute is that it’s wet. About $17, full retail. 2002 V. Delaporte, Sancerre: Pretty juice with nice aromatics, a chalky but elegant flavor profile, an integrated mouthfeel, good acids and a solid finish. Clearly of its place and well balanced. About $15, discounted. 2002 Terres Dorees, Beaujolais Blanc: Crystal clear on both the nose and palate, ripe chardonnay without any trace of manipulation or wood, rich in the mouth and good length. Simply the best white wine bargain I have found. Delightful. About $11, discounted. 2002 Terres Dorees, Beaujolais L’Ancien VV: Pure, ripe fruit on the nose and palate with some mineral accents, rich mouthfeel, integrated and well structured, concentrated, good balance and length. Of its place and easy to drink. Excellent wine; excellent value. About $12, discounted. 2002 B. Baudry, Chinon Les Granges: Beginning to show some herbaceousness which was not showing on release. I preferred the wine without, but it is still exuberant wine, clearly of its place, well-made and ready to drink. Better with food. About $12, discounted. Best, Jim

You'll not get away with brief on that one, laddy. Care to name labels of those that have slid? I have had a few in the last year that haven't: Laurel Glen, Speletech, Beringer Bancroft Cab., Flora Springs Trilogy, Mondavi Res., Snowden and White Cottage. Best, Jim

'Made ya look. :) Best, Jim

The 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet, is opening back up again and has morphed from its original satin textured, streamlined self (at release) into a velvety mouthfull of vino that seamlessly blends sauvage notes into a rich, fairly deep wine that coats the mouth and finishes sometime in March. It is impossible to have too much of this wine in your cellar. Best, Jim

Brad, A curious note. I have had this three times in the past 2 years and it has been excellent showing no imbalance and only the slightest drying while delivering a complexity rare in zinfandel. Is provenance known/assured with your bottle? Best, Jim

We have a Chinese place near-by that serves some of the best take-out I’ve ever had. On nights when even trying to come up with a menu is too much effort, that is a blessing. With Moo Goo Gai Pan: 2002 Stratford, Riesling (Martinborough, NZ): Charming nose of mineral, licorice, and white fruit/ Medium body with good cut, flavors follow the nose expansively, crisp but calm acidity backing, well integrated, some complexity, concentrated, well balanced/ Long finish that reprises the flavors, especially the licorice. With its own character and an elegance not expected of such a young Riesling, this was a good match with the food and delicious without. Full retail $21.99. Aside: I continue to be impressed with the NZ whites; they seem to carry the stamp of their place (and all are identifiable as NZ), they are well structured, and, they are clean and pure. Somebody down there likes us. Best, Jim http://www.garagistewine.com/briggs.html