Florida Jim

Craig, Z-H is not my style, in most cases (some of their Rieslings are pretty damn good) so I would say I'd pass to something more elegant (Alsatian maybe?). Still, in its place, it is or can be the right wine if one enjoys the style. Best, Jim

I do seem to have that effect on a number of people. ;) Best, Jim

After a week of the flu and no wine . . . With a puree of butternut squash, sautéed spinach and grilled wild Alaskan Salmon: 2002 William Fevre, Chablis “Champs Royaux”: On the back label, this wine is described as, “. . . fresh, refined and elegant with a pleasant roundness, achieved by barrel ageing.” Whoever wrote the copy had not tasted the wine. A moderately pungent nose of lemon and mineral leads to a palate that is intense, angular and disjointed. But it is also concentrated, ripe, already showing some complexity and the substantial acids are fully in charge. It is not integrated but shows the potential to come together over time. By comparison, the 2002 Brun Beaujolais Blanc has more integration and rounder tones now but this has much more cut. Moreover, it is quite long, even considering how crisp the finish is; mouthwateringly so. There is no evidence of any oak use so, if the label is correct, it must have been neutral wood. It is showing very young but powerful and well stuffed (especially for a village wine) with excellent acidity. Almost too much cut for the food. ‘Needs several years in the cellar. Price unknown. Thanks Nathan. Best, Jim

Mary, The Lindemen's Bin 99, Pinot Noir that dlc mentions is in most major markets and should always be less than $10. Can you give me an idea of where you live; some things are easier/harder to find depending on your market? Best, Jim

The flu has come calling on your humble scribe (and nothing delivers humility quite like the flu) so I relay brief notes on two wines. These are the descriptors Diane used (just the thought of me imbibing sent me running . . .): 2001 Dom. Montaude, Minervois: “Smells great, really good with grilled chicken, I’d like some more, please.” Considering its $8 price tag, when I recover I may take to wearing this as cologne. 2001 Bruno Giacosa, Nebbiolo D’Alba: “This wine smells even better than the Minervois, very good with pasta, ‘sure you don’t want to try a sip? (I was very sure), one more glass should do me.” At $23, I think we’ll continue to treat this as a beverage but I can live with that. There you have it; a woman who knows what she likes. Maybe a glass this evening . . . Best, Jim

Last night, we went to a new Thai/Asian restaurant out on the beaches. Turns out, it was in a building I used to have my office in – ‘nice surprise. The food was terrific. I had some sushi to start and then the crispy duck breast with black bean sauce. (Emphasis on crispy.) We also had these wines, both of which were excellent with the food: 2002 Kahurangi, Gewertztraminer (Nelson, NZ): Unmistakably Gewertz. nose, this begins off-dry in the mouth but finishes bone dry with all sorts of beautiful spice tones. It is nicely balanced and ripe but it is the spiciness that is its strongest point. For drinking now. $22.99, full retail. 2002 Rockburn, Pinot Gris (Central Otago, NZ): The website compares this to Zind-Humbrecht’s Pinot Gris for concentration and size – and the choir sings “Amen.” Although lightly scented with poached pear and spice notes, the wine is immense in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose, are solidly backed with acidity and that seem to expand once the sip is swallowed. The finish is very long with all sorts of fruit, mineral and spice flavors that seem to grow for several moments. Quite unusual and definitely not a wine in the elegant style. $23.99, full retail. Best, Jim http://www.garagistewine.com/briggs.html

Okay, you got me. Why wistful? Best, Jim

2000 Felsina, Chianti Classico Berardenga: A pleasant cherry and earth nose leads to a medium bodied, firm palate that is well concentrated and balanced. Finishes slightly dry. Good but not extraordinary and over my budget at $20, full retail. 1998 Coffaro, Estate Cuvee: (35% cab. sauv., 32% zin., 23% carignan, 10% petite sirah) Way too oaky for me to enjoy regardless of how long it aired. A shame, as there is some nice fruit here. This producer’s vineyards are in the hottest section of the Dry Creek Valley, so even in difficult years (eg. 1998), they seem to get ripe fruit. But this barrel regimen is shameful. About $25, on futures. 2001 Lindeman’s, Pinot Noir Bin 99: Varietally correct, nicely concentrated and correctly balanced. At $5.69, full retail, I will drink many cases of this. 1996 Dom. de Montgilet, Anjou Villages: Backward, hard and overwhelmed with charred green bell pepper scents and flavors. Everything green that is bad about cabernet franc, exemplified. 2000 T-Vine, Syrah: Thick and glossy, tastes like someone added brown sugar syrup to overripe fruit. Not even the remotest hint of syrah typicity. Grossly overpriced at $42, full retail. 1999 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Non-Filtre: With a string of good years in Beaujolais (save ’01) many of the wines I have had from the past four vintages have shown great aromatics, delicious flavors and excellent potential but none more than this. A remarkably concentrated, aromatically pungent wine that hits all the notes in the Beaujolais scale without dissonance. Truly fabulous juice that needs a decade. About $13, delivered. 2000 Vieux Mas des Papes, CdP: Salty minerality and a touch of alcoholic heat set this apart from standard grade, terroir driven CdP. Nothing to get excited about but good wine. About $19, discounted. 2000 Chat. Batailley: Light and a touch stemmy on the nose but clearly Bordeaux with underbrush tones and mineral accents to otherwise ripe, but not overripe fruit. Big structure is fairly well integrated and less than obvious. This opened some over the course of an evening and showed much better than I would have expected for its youth. About $27, discounted. 2001 Dom. le Sang des Cailloux, Vacqueyras Cuvee Lopy: Flowers and funk on the nose, outstanding concentration with some captivating sauvage notes that highlight great fruit. Massive structure but it maintains a tenuous balance. Superb stuff that needs a decade but should be stunning with sufficient cellar time. About $26, discounted. Best, Jim

With cauliflower soup with white truffle oil: 2003 Kahurangi, Sauvignon Blanc (Moutere, NZ): Aggressively herbaceous with strong gooseberry and spearmint scents, hints of mineral, melon and peach/ Crisp and focused on the palate with flavors that follow the nose, excellent concentration and intensity, good balance/ Medium length, crisp finish. Needs 2-3 years in the cellar but still fine accompaniment with the soup. $17.99, full retail. With grilled pork tenderloin with sautéed onions and mushrooms with pork jus reduction sauce: 2001 Bruno Giacosa, Nebbiolo D’Alba Valmaggiore: An odd nose of old wood, freshly picked mint and stale newspaper with some red fruit notes/ More fruit in the mouth and a sort of underlying power that flits across the palate in an instant only to be gone the next; more depth and complexity with good balance and intensity/ Medium length finish that shows its structure but never lets it control. More “stuff” than the regular version of this wine but also more closed and backward. A bottle deserving of several years of aging. One of those “now you see it, now you don’t” wines that is only beginning to show its potential. $21.99, discounted. Best, Jim

With a salad of fresh tomato, mozzarella and 2002 Frog’s End EVOO “Frantoio,” and roasted chicken with couscous: 2002 Brightwater, Riesling (Nelson, NZ): The initial aromatic impression is similar to a Nigl Riesling and that parallel persists through to the palate; lightly floral but packed with scents of hot stones, peach, pear, unripe pineapple and almond; integrated but complex/ Finely chiseled flavors follow the nose with excellent concentration and intensity; as the wine opens it becomes more viscous and textural; although a touch tart upon opening it, eases into trim balance after about an hour; well structured/ Very long and clean finish that is nuanced without any one element dominating. A young, vibrant, layered Riesling with excellent potential for aging yet delicious now with decanter time. The fruit concentration here is remarkable. Superb with the food; and a perfect match with the salad. $16.99, full retail. http://www.garagistewine.com/briggs.html Best, Jim

With turkey sandwiches and cauliflower soup with white truffle oil: 2002 Kahurangi, Unwooded Chardonnay (Nelson, NZ): Clean and ripe chardonnay smells with hints of lemon zest/ Fruit sweet on the palate with flavors that follow the nose, almost prickly lemony acids, quite intense and focused, concentrated, tight but opened some with air/ Mouthwatering finish. This was uncorked too soon but it did open over the course of the meal. Needs 3-5 years to round out the acids but certainly has the stuffing to go longer in the cellar. $15.99, full retail. (less at Garagiste) Aside: When I drink unwooded Chardonnay, I realize just how much I enjoy this variety. Lots of other white grapes can be as complex and can age as well but few can match the kind of purity that fine Chardonnay can deliver. Of course, Chablis is my favorite, and although this wine is in that style, it definitely has its own distinctive stamp. I am looking forward to trying this again in three years. Best, Jim http://www.garagistewine.com/briggs.html

With five good palates in the room for dinner, it seemed the perfect time to try something new and different. Three Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand; Imported by Cordon Selections, Seattle, and presently retailed by Garagiste (888-264-0053 or www.garagistewine.com), in Seattle. We started with some crusty Italian bread and two New Zealand olive oils (also available through Garagiste): Oriwa EVOO, Nelson, NZ Excellent and clean flavors of olive and pepper with good pungency and viscosity. Consensus: use for drizzling on hot food or in salads. 500 ml $30.99 2002 Frog’s End Estate EVOO, Nelson, NZ Wonderfully fresh and pungent with very bright olive and pepper flavors. Consensus: world class oil to be drizzled on bread or for anointing delicate foods. 250 ml $30.99 With the bread and oils we tasted the 2002 Fiddler’s Green, Sauvignon Blanc (Waipara, NZ): Very strong scent of gooseberry, with some musk, chalk and asparagus aromas; quite focused/ Broader on the palate but still crisp and delineated flavors that follow the nose and add some mineral tones, very concentrated, intense, nicely textured/ Medium length, grapefruit finish. Of the three Sauvignons, this was the wine with the most distinct character and needed to be paired with food to show its best. I think it would do very well with goat cheese and probably will be the longest lived of the three. Idiosyncratic and not for everyone but the favorite of more than one taster this evening. $19.99, full retail. With fresh, sliced tomatoes with buffalo mozzarella and capers; followed by sautéed chicken with artichoke hearts on couscous, we tasted these two wines: 2003 Kaimira, Sauvignon Blanc (Nelson, NZ): Closed with screw-cap and appeared to have some bubbles when poured/ Some gooseberry and boxwood but not as powerful as the Fiddler’s Green, a hint of green olive with a rounder, softer nose than the FG/ Flavors follow the nose with very slight residual sugar notes that are nicely balanced against solid acids such that the wine is both full and bright in the mouth, plenty of cut when tasted with the food and some complexity/ Medium length, clean finish. A wine of some character and very nice balance; of all the Sauvignons, the best food wine. A good choice for all sorts of light fare. $18.99, full retail. 2003 Brightwater, Sauvignon Blanc (Nelson, NZ): Fruit sweet on the nose with almost no gooseberry, more grapefruit and mineral tones that evolve to melon and pear with hints of petrol and smoke; quite complex and alluring/ Very complete and complex on the palate with flavors that echo the nose adding orange peel accents; round fruit, smooth texture and solid acids make for a nicely taut and perfectly balanced wine; remarkable complexity,/ Long finish emphasizing melon and mineral. This wine stood very well by itself and, for my taste, is a wine I will use regularly as an aperitif. One of the most complex and refined Sauvignons I have had. Delightful. $19.99, full retail. After dinner we also tried a 1994 Kiona, Late Harvest Muscat (375 ml) which was just too oxidized to drink and a 2000 Shafer, Syrah Relntless which, to my taste was simple, confectioned and needed to be chewed. Not my style of wine but others enjoyed it. Best, Jim PS Prices on the sauvignons at Garagiste are less than full retail.

Actually, if you ever had a Merlot from Chile you've probably had it before. A good deal of Carmenere from there has been so labeled. Best, Jim

I doubt it but, if I were trying, it would be at stores in Oregon. That's where the winery is. Best, Jim

1998 Thomas, Pinot Noir: When Picasso broke open the visual world in planes; when Coltrane played original stuff we couldn’t label; when e.e. cummings strung words together in some novel and unbelievable patterns – well, I can only imagine what people thought. But they responded, most in a way they hadn’t before - to something fresh and powerful and unique. For winos on the road to enlightenment, I suggest you dismount here; if only for a moment. The nose is indescribable but, I’ll try. If you’re looking for fruit, don’t; it is the merest hint of wafting red plum way off there in the background. Up front it’s all dirt and truffle and underbrush but its all held together with something visceral and integrating; it doesn’t so much appeal to the senses as it does to the primal nature of one’s senses. The palate has more of the same but the fruit now plays a balancing role to all those complex intricacies the nose introduces. It’s mouth-filling and just a bit tannic but the flavors march uninterrupted from first attack through a long, incredibly nuanced, finish that reprises the nose with layers of flavor. A ventured guess; 80% of the people that taste this will not like it. The remaining 20% may, but will be unable to articulate why. No other wine I have had even comes close. I am drawn to it. “It is so quite a new thing. Muscles better and nerves more.” Best, Jim

Ooops, it is I who am sorry. Best, Jim

Mini starters: Scallop & Cauliflower Puree Eggs and bacon (quails egg,cream sauce,crispy bacon) white bean cappucinio Sauvignon blanc sounds good; where Bill would go with NZ I'd pick French, but that's splitting hairs. Alternative: Fiano di Avellino Beer battered beetroot with Horseradish cream Again, I agree with Bill. I'd pick a Spatlese as it will have sufficient residual sugar to compete with the horseradish Alternative: Vouvray demi-sec Oriental Pork belly with Pak choi & Parsnips I have never had anything like this so I have no idea what to suggest Cheddar & gorgonzola fondue with pear, figs & grapes My choice would be German, Auslese, especially if the fruit is served raw Alternative: Recioto di Soave Best, Jim

Very limited. Some bottlings are already sold out at retail stores in NYC. If you see them, decide immediately. Best, Jim

2001 Chateau de Paraza, Minervois Cuvee Speciale: Not in the same league as the recently tasted Domaine Montaude, Minervois (previously written up; see “I am undone”), but of the same ilk, with a berry and spice nose and good integration on the palate. More attenuated then the Montaude but still good wine. About $10, full retail. 2001 Bruno Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: This bottle did not carry the “Valemaggoire” (sp?) designation. Lovely upon opening with some dried rose scents mixed with earth and berry tones; bright on the palate in a high-toned, almost pinot-like way with cherry and raspberry dominating; medium length, cherry finish. Over several hours this lost its nose and the tannins became drying and coarse. To be drunk immediately or throw the dice and see what happens with a couple years in the cellar. About $24, full retail. 2002 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie Cuvee Tardive: Decanted 1 ½ hours. At first a bit unfocused on the nose and palate, but as the meal progressed, this seemed to gain focus and clarity. Still shows that depth on the palate and lovely mouthfeel but I suspect that this wine is drinking so well today only because it has not yet begun to close down – and I’m betting it will, probably sooner rather than later. About $22, delivered. 2002 Huet, Vouvray, Le Mont Demi-sec: Ripe, fresh-cut pineapple; that’s the first and most expansive aroma, accompanied by a rainwater/mineral component, some citrus, chalk and white pepper scents. Mouth-filling, smooth, powerful flavors that echo the nose and add a bit of honey. There is concentration, intensity, vitality and depth; all in each sip. Lots of acid structure holds everything in an almost quivering focus. The finish is long and detailed. Exceptional balance and endless potential. Needs a decade at minimum and will last and last and . . . About $30, delivered. Best, Jim

Andre, I never heard of Asian oak - maybe he meant Russian? It is labeled as Minervois but the bottle has gone to recycling so I can't tell you if it was AOC - in view of the regulation you site, likely not. No idea about the spice. For those interested in the market it is: Mazzaro 2909 - 22nd Avenue North St. Petersburg, FL 727-321-2400 Best, Jim

Of all places, St. Petersburg, Florida, is home to one of the finest Italian markets I have encountered this side of New York City. For Christmas, my brother had gotten us a gift certificate and today we planned to redeem it for a wonderful assortment. Among the goodies that went home with us were breads, pastries, biscotti, olives, capers, cheeses and, of course, wine. Working at one of the counters was an acquaintance of some years, Pasqual. He is the owner and only salesperson of a small distributor of mostly French wines. He is always impeccably dressed, soft spoken and filled with the passion and knowledge of his trade. Today he asks me to try the 2001 Domaine Montaude, Minervois, which he says is made from 100% Carignan. The only other Minervois I have had, Pasqual introduced me to; the Abbaye de Tholomies. I have written about it several times and, although its varietal make-up is different than the Montaude, it is a fine wine, indeed. I still have a few bottles collecting dust in the cellar and I look forward to tasting each. Pasqual tells me that the Montaude vines are all over 100 years of age, some almost 125 years old. The wine is aged in Asian oak and, upon tasting, I notice a very slight sort of caper-like aroma accenting the berry and spice tones that dominate. The palate is quite rich and integrated, smooth, concentrated and ripe without any hint of over-ripeness. Of course, I am tasting from a plastic cup the size of a fifty-cent piece, so I am less than convinced. But the price is $9/bottle, so I take one along. At dinner tonight, we opened this Minervois to accompany grilled porkloin; sautéed mashed potatoes with celeriac; and, caramelized onions with sautéed green beans, peas and wild mushrooms. What a wine! I keep silent so that Diane can speak her mind uninfluenced – about three sips in she says, “this is yummy.” Precisely. It is ready now, with remarkable concentration that must come from the old vines and as smooth and seamless as it is rich. I pace myself so that I can see how it develops over time and it does nothing but get better. I am undone. All this for $9, full retail. Imported by Siema LLC, Springfield, VA. I will be calling Pasqual tomorrow. If I thought he’d answer, I’d call tonight. Amazing juice. Best, Jim

And please don't forget to boycott truffles from Perigord, foie gras, Châteauneuf, Clos de la Roche, whatever as well. It's so expensive here in Old Europe. Lest the political clamor rage on, I was being sarcastic in the title and intro. Not in the tasting note, itself, however. Best, Jim

Over the past couple of nights, I have had a couple of clearly aberrant bottles of Beaujolais. They were delicious. Obviously, these must be the kind of wines people talk about when they say the exception proves the rule. Ah, make that exceptions. 2002 Coudert, Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie Cuvee Tardive: During the first half hour, this bore a striking resemblance to the regular cuvee from this producer in this vintage; that delineated, latent power, fairly closed profile that all but yells that it needs to rest. But this cuvee has plusher fruit and a bigger and more textured mouthfeel, which I got to taste starting at about 45 minutes open. By the time the evening (and bottle) was ending, this wine was fully open, joyously juicy and rich, with plush tannins and fabulous flavors. I suspect this will also do well in the cellar, but if 45 minutes of air make it this good, why bother. About $22, delivered. 2000 Micharud, Brouilly Cuvee Non-Filtre: The Michaud 2000’s are really coming into their own. The more expensive (by $4) Cuvee Prestige from this producer is just starting to open but this is glorious right now. Half and hour in the decanter brought out a tart raspberry structure but it was merely a skeleton for the deep, rich flavors and texture that were expansive in the mouth and seemed to last through an entire TV commercial break (now that’s length). I have had a lot of very fine Burgundy that could not approach the mouthfeel of this wine and very few from recent vintages that showed this well. So if you’re waiting on your Burgs. to develop, this is a lovely wine to consume in the interim. While the Cuvee Prestige still needs time, this is ready and willing today. About $13, delivered. As you see, these must be anomalous examples from this wasteland of an AOC located somewhere in a country that doesn’t share our administration’s political views. If for no other reason, they should be avoided. Best, Jim

1994 Flowers, Pinot Noir Camp Meeting Ridge: For most of its life, this was fiercely tannic and so drying as to make leaving it in the cellar an easy choice. Now, at ten years of age, that tannic bite has completely receded and has left soft, somewhat simple, fruit with a little too much oak to match my preference but not too much to pour it out. It reminds me of some of the Burgundy’s of Laurent; a nice, smooth texture to the fruit, little complexity and too much wood for me. For those not as averse to wood, there is a spiciness that it lends to the juice and you may find the wine more complex for that reason. Even better, the wine does not dry out on the finish, which may say more about my oak sensitivity than the actual use of new barrels. In any event, the $55, delivered, price tag is evidence of my poor judgment in buying a wine on emotion and not on track record. When I think of what $55, would have bought ten years ago . . . Best, Jim

1998 Hamacher, Pinot Noir: This maker produces very well balanced and elegantly styled OR pinots and this continues in that mode. On release, this was quite intense but, shortly thereafter, went through a somewhat closed stage. It has opened back up and shows very fine and ripe cherry/raspberry fruit with nice focus but not the intensity of its youth. I also thought I detected a bit less structure than the last couple of bottles tasted – whether that is a momentary thing or the beginning of the end, I couldn’t guess. Nonetheless, excellent accompaniment to a pasta dish with a very light white sauce and asparagus, prosciutto, caramelized onions and cheese. 2000 Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Prestige: As is often the case with good Beaujolais that has a year or two on it, drinking a bottle of this convinces me I did not buy near enough. Still very intense on the palate with mineral and red fruit flavors, solid acids, suave tannins and a laser like delivery that is, by itself, refreshing. Complex aromatics and good length complete a very fine experience. Along with baby-back ribs, summer squash, broccoli and blueberry pie, ‘finest kind. 1998 Belle Pente, Riesling: Several years in the bottle has stripped this wine of most of its aromas but the palate is lively, crisp, vinous and has some depth. It is good by itself but comes alive with a salad of fresh herbs and a mozzarella-prosciutto roll. Last Friday, friends we met in NC came in for an evening and two glorious FL days. Kraig and Kim are relatively new to wine but both have much better palates than most recent initiates I know. Among the wines tasted over their stay were the following: 2002 J.P. Brun, Terres Dorees, Beaujolais Blanc; 2002 B. Baudry, Chinon, Les Granges; 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet; and, 2002 Coudert, Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie (reg. bottling). Each wine showed well (several of my recent posts have more detailed notes on these), although the Coudert was fairly closed as one might expect for such a young powerhouse of a wine. The interesting result of our tasting was Kraig’s call to CSW the next day to purchase the Coudert and Brun wines, as well as some other goodies listed on their website inventory. It is heartening to see that kind of appreciation for such wines and it gives me a sense of personal satisfaction that I could introduce them. Especially, when their local wine shop employees continue to try to “sell them up.” Although, I suppose it could be argued that I have done likewise; but quality, not price. Best, Jim