Florida Jim

Jason, We leave shortly for three weeks. If you e-mail me at nawoc@skybest.com, I'll try to get it when we get back. Sorry, Jim

Jim, thank you for recognizing the possibilities in mac and cheese! I am printing out your list of wines to show to my oenophile husband who dismisses mac and cheese as a food unworthy of wine, even my special recipe for mac and cheese. Oh, I can just imagine the lively discussion we'll have over dinner tonight . . . . Tell him that no less an oenophile than Baron von Rothschild (of Chateau Mouton Rothschild) answered the question "what food goes best with Mouton?" with "macaroni and cheese." (No kidding about this; its true.) Simple fare is always the best foil for the greatest wines. Best, Jim

John, I have never even seen their wines; this was via a friend. However, I will be seeing them in the future: more to come . . .:) Best, Jim

Macaroni and cheese is one of the best foils for red wine (not just Mouton). Diane makes her own recipe which includes several different cheeses, crispy bread crumbs as a topping, and, a few wild mushrooms and fresh herbs for added flavor. Then we get a gang together; like so: With Caesar salad and fresh croutons: 2000 Luneau-Papin, Clos des Allees, Muscadet: nose of citrus, sea shells and a mountain stream/ medium body, substantial cut, the flavors follow the nose with good depth, very intense and concentrated, excellent structure, good balance/ very long, crisp finish. The great thing about Muscadet is that you can drink it on release or ten (maybe more) years later and it tastes great. The ripeness and depth of fruit in this one is exceptional. A wine I should buy more of, immediately. Good with the dish. With Diane’s mac and cheese: 1999 G. & C. Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny: expansive nose of red fruit, fruit pits, mineral and accents of black fruit/ medium body, very approachable, smooth, integrated, layered, the flavors are mostly ripe fruit and mineral, has an ethereal quality on the palate but still has grip, perfect balance/ long, beautifully delineated finish. Fully open for business and as good as wine ever needs to be for this taster. Superb. Killer with the dish. 1998 Colin-Deleger, Chassagne-Montrachet VV (rouge): reticent nose of stones and pit fruits, earthy and somewhat rustic/ medium body, substantial tannins, very compact on the palate with flavors that follow the nose, intense and concentrated, somewhat closed, balanced/ medium length, somewhat drying finish. Clearly, Cote de Beaune with an almost Pommard rusticity. Thank goodness for the cheese; it tamed some of the tannins. Hold. Good with the dish. 2000 Valhalla, Syrah (Virginia): a ripe black fruit background with red fruit, olive, pepper, smoked bacon, leather and barnyard all playing in the foreground (who put Jamet in this bottle?)/ medium body, flavors follow the nose with multiple layers and excellent depth, elegant but quite concentrated and intense, solid structure, a very harmonious wine but also complex, lovely balance/ long, complex finish. At first, I thought someone was playing with me here – this has to be Jamet substituted for the original wine. Not so. Oh my! For my tastes, the best domestic syrah I have tried. Outstanding with the dish and excellent by itself. Best, Jim

Yes. Garagiste is a mail order operation out of Seattle, WA, and has a very large selection of Italian wines from all regions at reasonable prices (they have some of the stupidly priced stuff, too, but lots of QPR's). http://www.garagistewine.com/inventory.html Best, Jim

Each day, I thank the powers that be for the woman I live with. The food: A couple of slices of rustic French bread toasted. On top of the toast is mélange of shrimp sautéed in roasted red pepper butter with some cheese-less pesto added, a few wilted spinach leaves, a little feta and a drizzle of EVOO. The wine: 1995 Pavillon Blanc du Chateau Margaux: a very complex nose of talc, under-ripe pineapple, very old and dry marl, spring flowers, resin, light honey, peach, citrus, a touch of cinnamon/ barely medium body, bright flavors that echo the nose but emphasize the earthy/stony elements, smooth texture, crisp, good secondary development, intense and balanced/ extremely long, crisp finish that revisits this wine’s complexity. There have been times in the past when bottles of this smelled like dirty sweat socks – and though the remnants of that persist, they have developed into all sorts of nearly unidentifiable but captivating smells. The fruit is still bright and elegant but the wine, as a whole, has achieved a new level of interest. Supposedly, a poor year for white Bordeaux – ‘couldn’t prove it by me. And with the dish, this is spectacular. About $50, on release. Lunch rocks! Best, Jim

With pistachio nuts: 2000 Julian Meyer, Pinot Gris: more golden than expected with a bright spice and white fruit nose and some mineral tones/ medium body but more viscous than expected, again the spiced fruit notes along side of mineral/stone flavors and a little light honey, concentrated, balanced/ medium length, clean finish. More extraction than expected but nothing out of place. Nice complexity and integration. With a grilled, open faced sandwich of olive bread, mozzarella, tomato, pesto, EVOO and fresh basil: 1999 Chevillon, Roncieres: very Nuits on the nose with black pit-fruit, earth and stone/ full body but no impression of weight, very integrated flavors follow the nose, smooth and supple – seamless, concentrated and well balanced/ long, deep finish. A bottle of this about 5 months ago showed like a barrel sample; this one was very nice and pretty approachable. I still think I will keep my bottles (this was someone else’s) in the cellar. It was a beautiful wine and went so well with the food as to be one of those notable matches we will remember. With grilled (rare) NY strip steaks, sautéed chanterelles and a potato, mushroom and spinach casserole: 1998 Catina del Pino, Barbaresco Ovello: heavenly nose of light perfume, black fruit, currant jelly, leather and very gentle, spicy oak/ full body, dusty tannins evident, very deep flavors follow the nose, quite concentrated and intense, good complexity, well balanced/ long finish with those dusty (but not unripe) tannins apparent. This is marvelous stuff and starting to show a bit more of its structure then on release. Even so, it was an excellent match with the food and the nose was memorable. Hold. 1998 Ogier, Cote-Rotie: quintessential Cote-Rotie in a ripe, rich and forward style; maybe my favorite Ogier of all the recent vintages (although I have not tasted the 2001 yet). A great wine. With fresh berries and mascarpone: Spirited conversation. Best, Jim

Good thing you're using an alias. :) Best, Jim

This producer is a coop and there are over 500 owners/growers involved. Not that that means it is a bad producer, by any means, but there are a few producers in that area (the Wachau) that have a more individual style. Some include Hirtzberger, Knoll, Alzinger, Jamek, Nikolaihof, F.X. Pichler, Rudi Pichler and Prager. These may cost a bit more but you may find the individuality is worth the price. BTW, the last several vintages have been good ones for Gruner. Best, Jim

With Swiss cheese and crackers: 1999 Freie Weingartner, Gruner Veltliner Achleiten: very powerful and expansive nose of flowers, citrus, mineral and light honey/ medium body, smoother and creamier than at release but has element that is almost piquant, strong flavors follow the nose, very intense, concentrated, well balanced/ very long, flavor-filled finish. I have heard this vineyard described as producing wines with a “pong” on the palate; this wine seems to evince that contention. As noted, it has a smoother and deeper texture than at release. But it is still an intensely flavored Gruner and very well balanced. Delicious. About $17, discounted. With Thai curry shrimp on rice: 1998 Mittnacht-Klack, Riesling Schoenenbourg VV: less powerfully scented than the preceding wine but still floral with elements of white fruit, spice, petrol and sugar syrup on the nose/ medium body, not near as sweet as the last bottle, more mineral tones among the white fruits but still the viscosity of a VT-type wine, concentrated and balanced/ medium length finish. Good accompaniment to the spicy curry and back in kabinett level of sweetness. Good wine. About $17, discounted. With grilled pork chop and root veggies: 2000 Zenato, Valpolicella Ripassa: very attractive nose of plum jelly, blackberry, maple candy and earth/ medium body, flavors follow the nose with a sweetness that avoids being cloying, concentrated, clean, supple, with good grip/ long, slightly drying finish. At 13% alcohol, a near-Amarone one can drink with dinner. I thoroughly enjoyed this wine – it is not just Amarone-light but has a flair all its own and was superb with the pork. I will buy a lot of this. About $15, discounted. With poached salmon and summer squash casserole with ricotta custard: 1999 Lafarge, Volnay Vendage Seletionnees: beautiful aromas of fresh cherry juice, gentle oak, spice and earth/ light body but no lack of ripe flavors that follow the nose, somewhat sappy, good grip, well balanced, very clean on the palate/ medium length finish with enough tannin to remind me that this needs more time. Lovely wine; the kind of wine I could drink more often than any other. Elegant, flavorful, balanced, clear and an absolute delight with the food. About $35, delivered. Best, Jim

The tasting was professional in nature; white table cloths, bread and water the only accompaniments, each wine in its own glass, all glasses the same shape and size. The wines had been open about an hour but not decanted. Initial comments: -All wines were opaque, deep red with purple tinge. -All wines were well concentrated, without patent flaws, had solid acids, were intensely flavored, balanced and displayed slight to moderate tannins. -I would drink any of these wines with beef or lamb and be satisfied. -None of these wines were California in style. -The wines ranged in retail price from $24 to $102; I did not find a significant quality leap between the lowest and highest priced wines – I surmise that this speaks well of the vintage overall. -I am not generally a fan of cabernet and merlot based wines but I attempted to be objective in my notes. -Prices noted are full retail in western NC. D’Escurac, Medoc (60 cab./40 merlot): Moderately expansive, some smoke, perfume and chocolate tones, with hints of mineral and green wood smells/ Medium body, predominant flavors of ripe cassis and chocolate, little wood, touch of heat, medium tannins/ Medium finish that was lightly drying. $24. Good on opening, devolved some over time. Reignac, Bordeaux Superior (85 merlot/15 cab.): Black fruit with substantial wood smoke, slightly closed, some spice and graham cracker/ Medium body, closed and somewhat weedy in the mouth with black fruit backing, considerable tannin/ Short, tannic finish. $41. Too much wood for me. Montlisse, St. Emilion (80 merlot/20 cab. franc): Moderately expansive, sweet fruit, not complex, touch of vanilla and cab. franc lift/ Smooth but good grip, polished and integrated, simple but tasty/ Medium finish that was moderately tannic. $35. Nice wine. Clos Eglise, Castillon (70 merlot/15 cab./15 cab. franc): Big wood char leading on the nose – almost sour, liquor-like scents/ Very soft on the palate some char and very sweet fruit (feels manipulated), simple/ Odd finish that was drying from both tannin and something else that seemed artificial. $44. Something is wrong here. The moderated said this was one of the new style Bdx. La Prade, de Francs (80 merlot/20 cab. franc): Big and sweet black fruit, earthy and harder than the preceding wines, some wood but not too much/ Black fruit on the palate, slightly closed, the impression of better balance than the preceding wines, a hint of cab. franc lift/ Long, tannic finish. $42. Seems to have promise but is a bit tight for predicting. La Tour Carnet, Haut Medoc (58 merlot/30 cab./12 cab. franc): Very similar to the La Prade with slightly muted flavors, a touch softer and less complexity. $35. A lesser version of the preceding wine. La Croix St. Georges, Pommerol (100 merlot): Bright black and red fruit scents with gentle oak, some licorice; the impression that it was both clean and concentrated/ Ripe and juicy on the palate, expansive, smooth and integrated but still intense, fine tannins, good complexity, touch of green/ Medium, drying finish that gives the impression of balance. $102. Distinctly brighter and cleaner than the others. I have no idea what this will become in time. My relative preference has the Pommerol first, the Castillon last, and all others on equal footing. However, many liked the Castillon much more than me. I will not buy any of these. Best, Jim

Yesterday, we drove the Blue Ridge Parkway over to Mount Mitchell. If there is a prettier two hour drive in this country, I haven’t taken it. The last time I had been to the “highest point east of the Mississippi” was 25 years ago. I had come at a time when I was sad and emotionally lost. The natural power and beauty of the place had helped. This time we were fulfilling my wife’s birthday request. I think the place got to her, too. On the way back and after a hike to a lovely waterfall, we had lunch at one of the overlooks along the Parkway. Turkey sandwiches, chips, olives, cheese and crackers and a bottle of 2000 Raveneau, Butteaux. This wine has not yet closed up and smells of flowers and spring water. It’s fresh and lively in the mouth with lots of mineral crunch and a long, fruit sweet finish. About as good as Chardonnay gets. Later in the evening, we had a couple of homemade pizzas; one with spinach, feta and tomato, and, the other with olive tapenade. To accompany, a 1999 Chevillon, Les Perrieres, delighted the senses. It is rich and fleshy but also has the cut and backbone I have come to expect of good Burgundy. The nose is so expansive that when I opened the bottle, Diane could smell it across the room. And it just goes on and on; even at this age, a memorable wine. Many happy returns. Best, Jim

That black triangley label is the one. Yum. Your comment on the Sugarille reminds of the 1988 Pieve Santa Restutita, Brunello, that I recently finished my last bottle of. That was before they vineyard designated but (I think) it was the first year Gaja was involved with that operation. Mighty fine. Somehow, I think the folks at Tempier would understand . . . Best, Jim

The Louisiana Purchase is the best restaurant in Banner Elk, NC; some (and I include myself in this number) would say the best restaurant in the area. Mark Rosse is owner and executive chef. Last night, a gang of us gathered at Mark’s home for dinner, wine and to celebrate one of the first days in a long time without rain – so, of course, as soon as we were gathered, it rained. The Watauga river runs through his backyard and it was already swollen from weeks of precipitation. As the evening wore on, it turned a muddy brown – a sure sign of current run-off. But the sound of rushing water was a great backdrop to the festivities. Actually, Mark’s place is an old fishing lodge converted to a residence. Lots of windows and doors, a deck overlooking the river (even a tree growing through the deck providing shade, or in this instance, cover) sitting in the middle of 600 acres of state and privately owned forest. When you come up the drive, you ford a stream that feeds the Watauga. ‘Quite a place. The organic farmer’s market had provided most of our dinner including fresh chanterelles, fingerling potatoes, pole beans, baby carrots and fresh corn. Along side a rack of lamb and some grilled Copper River salmon, it was a feast. In no particular order, the wines served were: 1995 Moncuit, Cuvee Nicole Moncuit Champagne: this is a full flavored, bone dry expression of the variety and it was fabulous. Served ice cold, there was still plenty of mousse and great mouth presence. Great wine for about $40. 1996 Clos des Lambrays: others enjoyed this much more than me; in its favor was good complexity on the nose and palate and plenty of earth tones; to its detriment I found it austere, almost severe in the mouth and a little short. Interesting, but not fascinating. 2000 Gaja (the new one from the area nest to where Sassicia produces – starts with an M): I’m told this is about 70% Sangiovese with the remainder a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; whatever, this wine is deep, pure, ripe, smooth, rich and perfectly in balance. An absolute delight that, although showing young, was without question the WOTN. 2000 Lamborgini, Campeleone: I just don’t get it; I tried, I just don’t; its not unpleasant, its not over-the-top, its not over-wooded, and, its not even a little interesting – I’m sure I’m missing something and I have no idea how its made but, I wish they’d stop it. The only impression I have of it was that it was formulaic. For dessert, Diane had made a brown sugar and yogurt-cheese tart with a pecan crust and a blackberry sauce that included a bit of the wine that was served with it: 1972 Bodegas Toro Albala, Pedro Ximenez Gran Reserva (375): there is just no description of this juice that does it justice – motor oil, immense concentration, syrup – you pick’em. An intense and beautiful mouthful that matched the tart to perfection. It cleared up in time for the drive home. Thankfully. Best, Jim

Maybe so - I never thought of it that way. I usually just try to match the food and, more importantly, not overpower it. Assuming that we will all wind-up with clean palates from such a pairing, its easy to pick something else, regardless of color, to go with the next dish. But that acid thing makes sense . . . Best, Jim

Craig, Guidelines - hmmmmm . . . Other than trying to match the food, probably not. I'm not insenstive to the white before red theory, but many whites can stand with lighter reds so I do not hesitate in such circumstances. Besides, I think white can be a palate cleaner when served with reds and, for myself, I often coose them to their bigger red counterparts. Best, Jim

Crudités with cold sliced turkey and pork: 2000 Lapierre, Le Cambon: This is a bright, cherry, viscous Gamay with good depth of flavor, solid structure and enough nuance to make it interesting. Excellent with the dish. 2001 Donnhoff, Estate Riesling: Clean, clear, lightly sweet but plenty of stone and mineral scents and flavors. Good now; better later. Also good with the dish. With grilled salmon and a big salad: 1998 Flowers, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir: Generic, gently oaky and candied; in short, boring. 1990 Chat. Rochebelle (Saint-Emilion): The best bottle yet and so clearly of its place as to make a recently tasted 96 Lynch Bages seem international in style. Wonderful, layered, understated aromas of earth, red and black fruit and leather precede a delicious, elegant, equally layered palate filled with nuanced flavors that follow the nose, and, as perfect a balance as any Cab./Merlot I can remember. An absolute treat for the senses now but plenty of time left. And to my surprise, delightful with the food. Best, Jim

Good word. Best, Jim

Our friend Karin came to town and to dinner. She is one of those over 40, take no prisoners types that doesn’t even know what “standing on formality” means. And yet . . . she has these brief moments when from beneath all that strength comes a moment of insight and consideration so sweet and feminine as to disarm even the most macho of our guests. An extraordinary woman that I am lucky to call friend – and a damn good drinkin’ buddy – ‘you know what I mean? Aperitif: 2000 Lafarge, Bourgogne: This has a lovely red cherry nose with hints of cinnamon and earth; a beautiful palate of fresh red cherries, medium power tannins and nice intensity. Maybe a little short (or at least drying) on the finish but a good wine with time ahead of it. Scores high of the VLM translucence scale and delivers all the finesse one is allowed to enjoy. Given a year or two, it will be even better. About $18, delivered. With a salad of arugala, roasted beets, walnuts and ricotta salata: 2001 Donnhoff, Estate Riesling: Not near as sweet as on release but enough RS to stand with the naturally sweet beets; a few bubbles at this point but for a wine in transition, still lovely. This needs a year or two also and was a grand bargain at $13. With grilled NY strips: 1996 Lynch-Bages: This started out very CA in style on the nose with a substantial wood component and lots of extracted but simple fruit; about an hour later this started to head in direction no CA cabernet can go – a sort of power-fruit element with very solid earth tones and a bit of green (or maybe spearmint) around the edges – a much more interesting wine with enough depth to be alluring and enough simple power to be a strong player with the steak. I have my reservations, but this has more latent stuff than I can fathom. I will wait a good while before trying another. About $70, full retail. Best, Jim

Dear Red, Oh I was definitely in the cellar during that time. But I was . . . otherwise distracted. And I had pretty much given up on this; when I tasted it when first opened it had not impressed - that big, oaky, extracted, tannic stuff that I really haven't much use for anymore. So my motivation to go back to it was pretty slim. Nonetheless, I'm glad this sort of inadvertent experiment turned out as it did - perhaps, there is hope for big, oaky, extracted . . . Best, Jim

Andre, Its a pretty consistent 55 degrees. But, just so you know, I had not intended or planned that length of time. When I decanted the wine, I tasted it and knew immediately that it would not pair with the food we were having. So I put it back in the cellar. I got back to it ten days later and fully expected it to be a goner - what a surprise. But I do not recommend extended decanting and won't do this again. Best, Jim

Someone else's mailing list. Best, Jim

I do believe that many do. But, like most other appellations, there are producers who rise above. A quick check of my cellar inventory indicates that about eleven persent of my cellar is Oregon pinot - evidently I have more confidence in them than even I thought. Best, Jim

Aperitif: 1997 Trimbach, Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile (375); Beautifully scented and flavored with pretty good viscosity, outstanding integration and a sense of ripe, freshness that is at once a celebration of both fruit and the place it was grown. Delicious and not made for the long haul. About $18, delivered. With grilled pork tenderloin, couscous and fresh pea pods: 1996 School House, Pinot Noir: It’s transparent and slightly brown at the edge; a nose of dried leaves and slight cherry; a palate alive with bright red fruit and earth; and a nicely balanced, medium length finish. A wine that is light of weight, smooth on the palate but latent with nuance. Excellent with the meal. About $35, delivered. With assorted cheeses: 1995 Havens, Bourriquot: I decanted this about ten days ago and left it in the cellar in the decanter with just a cloth across the mouth; much too primary and big on day one; today it is still a tannic mouthful of wine but it has good solid cab. franc flavors, some decent earth and spice tones and accompanied the cheese well. Surprisingly, it showed no oxidation or hint thereof, despite the time open. Do not touch for at least 8-10 years. About $40, retail at release. Best, Jim

Well . . . shut my mouth. With grilled pork tenderloin and roasted root veggies: 1998 Peter Michael, “Moulin Rouge” Pinot Noir: moderately expansive aromatics that include mostly black fruit and brown spice, a bit of earth but absolutely no floral aromas and little red fruit/ full bodied but not in the least heavy, bright black fruit flavors and very distinct flavors of fresh ginger, cinnamon stick and nutmeg, very fine tannins that are barely noticeable, good concentration and intensity, excellent integration, satin texture, nice balance/ maybe a little shorter than I’d like but I’m quibbling here and Diane says I am just plain wrong. This is another wine entire from what it was on release and is maybe the best example of spicy pinot noir that I have had. Roumier like black fruit that is deep and fresh; primary in its power but nuanced in its delivery. I think this is Pisoni fruit; I think this was made by Mark Aubert (and those two things alone usually show me the door); but, I know this is terrific juice. Another great example of why generalizations about wine are virtually always false. About $55, full retail on release. Best, Jim