Florida Jim

After a fairly continuous series of dinners with friends, Diane and I dressed down, watched a little TV and ate by ourselves. With grilled salmon, roasted organic beets, wilted organic beet greens and a salad of green lentils with onions, garlic and tomatoes: 1996 Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin “Au Velle”: a little waxy and tight to begin with but an hour in the decanter brought out ripe cranberry and river rock aromas/ medium body, flavors that follow the nose with a bit of Gevrey earth and a touch of spice, satin texture, concentrated and intense, good balance/ medium length, somewhat drying (from tannin) finish. Could use two years in the bottle or two more hours in the decanter, but still delivers character and quality with good structure. Good with the salmon; out of this world with the lentils. With a very ripe nectarine and some raw almonds: 1997 Navarro, Gewurtztraminer VT: a sort of vanilla/pineapple nose with ginger, shower curtain, rainwater and some indeterminate spices/ medium body, bright and clean flavors follow the nose, viscous, balanced/ long finish. This had been opened, recorked and put in the cellar for about two days. It showed almost as it did when opened. Fair with the fruit; exquisite with the nuts. Best, Jim

Probably not for GruVee. I was trying to get "go to" GV that ages in almost any vintage; with Prager and GV, I would be selective. Now, his Achleiten Riesling is a different matter. Best, Jim

Would a few suggestions be appropriate? In any good vintage, I think the following wines would meet your stated criteria: Hirtzberger, Honivogl Knoll, Vinothekenfullung Alzinger, Liebenberg F.X. Pichler, "M" Brundlmayer, Lamm and Alte Reben Nigl, Alte Reben and assoted producers making out of the Achleiten Vineyard. There are many others, but these would be my choices for aging in virtually any vintage. Best, Jim

Too sweet, actually. No beets were used in the risotto, hence no red color. Wilted beet greens were and they are delicate but a little bitter. The food was fine, just a bad match. Best, Jim

Just a touch. Best, Jim

Structure and balance are better in the Jamet - that's all I really meant. Neither was undrinkable by any means; simply not my preference. And, oh yeah, I have a moderate tolerance for brett. Best, Jim

I try to be objective about the wine, even if it is not to my preference. There are lots of folks who love this wine and many more who simply enjoy it. I am sorry to say that my range is just not great enough. Best, Jim

With grilled chicken breasts; a roasted tomato, black bean, corn and onion salsa; white cornbread, and, a green salad: 1998 Fox Creek, Shiraz Reserve: powerful blackberry, black raspberry and eucalyptus aromas with a strong American oak overlay/ full body, very focused flavors echo the nose with a slight candied element, concentrated and intense, fair balance/ drying finish. For those who enjoy the nose, the palate delivers. But I sincerely doubt this wine will get better with age. And, personally, I have no use for it. 1999 Jamet, Cote-Rotie: red fruit, ash tray, green olive and brett dominate the nose; a bit of spice and meat/ medium body, bright red fruit tones with medium complexity using the olive and spice elements to compliment the fruit, a bit of wood intrudes, moderately concentrated with decent balance/ medium length finish. Better made wine than the shiraz, but not by much. Its a shame to see Jamet do a less than par job in such a fine vintage. And from what I hear of the 2000’s, this is another producer to cross off the purchase list. Ah, well . . . Best, Jim

With beet green risotto: 2000 Pieropan, Soave La Rocca: A lovely, fruit sweet wine mismatched with the slightly bitter dish. Gruner Veltliner would have been a better choice. Grilled salmon with a salad of arugala and roasted beets: 1996 Kistler, Pinot Noir Kistler Vnyd.: somewhat candied on the nose and palate; simple, straight-forward juice with good concentration and too much wood. 1995 Kistler, Pinot Noir Hirsch Vnyd.: bacon/smoke compliments black fruit on the nose but despite huge concentration the palate is hollow and drying. With sautéed apricots and ginger yogurt-cream: 2001 Cuilleron, Roussilliere (late harvest Viognier) (500 ml): beautiful peach and pear nose with a touch of wild flowers/ medium body but good density and not too sweet flavors follow the nose, satin texture, excellent balance/ medium length, very clean finish. A wow of a wine and perfect with the dish. After hours: 1999 Colin-Deleger, Volnay Les Brouillards: clear, solid red fruit and stone smells/ medium body, silky on the palate with nice complexity spinning off the elements of the nose, elegant but concentrated, intense, excellent balance/ long, fruit-filled finish. Superb wine and every bit the essence of Volnay. Best, Jim

A quick trip to northern California to visit with old friends Russell, Victoria, John, David, Stephen, Julius, Denise, Jim, Barbara and Bree. The chance to meet some new folks and put faces with names up ‘til then, unmet. And a few good wines: 2000 Sauzet, Chevalier-Montrachet: the nose was a cross between rushing spring water and poached pears with hints of cinnamon, oak, flowers and mineral; a very deep fruit scent prevailed/ medium bodied, strikes that “great wine” paradox of immense density and light-weight grace across the palate, flavors echo the nose, wonderful concentration, perfect balance/ long finish. Simply superb with a great future. 2000 Ravenau, Butteaux: refined nose of steel and fresh pears, some mineral, citrus and honeyed tones; very fresh and lively/ delightful texture, very fresh without being the least bit acidic or edgy, flavors follow the nose with good depth, concentrated and intense, good balance/ a tangy, long, flavor-filled finish. A spectacular young Chablis; far more approachable than expected. Charming. 1999 F.X. Pichler, Kellerberg Riesling: powerhouse nose of white fruit, resin, flowers and mineral/ full body, viscous, flavors follow the nose with depth and breadth, solid acid backbone, concentrated and intense, nice balance/ very long, pleasing finish. A masterpiece that is delicious now and has excellent potential. 1999 Hirtzberger, Honivogl Gruner Veltliner: deeply honeyed nose with oleander, tree bark, mineral and fresh pineapple/ full body, viscous, smooth texture, flavors follow the nose with complexity and integration, very deep and well balanced/ very long finish. Approaching the texture of oil but still elegant and graceful on the palate. I doubt this will ever close down – what a wine! 1997 J.P. Droin, Vaudesir: very clean nose of fresh air, white fruit and mineral/ medium body, distinctly mineral flavor profile but no lack of fruit support, lovely balance/ long finish. Not in the league with the Ravenau (above) but still an excellent wine that has developed in bottle very nicely. 1990 Jamet, Cote-Rotie: beautiful olive, bacon, ashtray, red fruit nose that is so distinctly of its place as to let one imagine the Rhone running by outside the window/ medium body, ripe red fruit with good backing acidity, considerable complexity and lovely balance/ long finish without any sense of drying. Yum and then some. Drink now with very good friends. 1999 Magpie, The Malcolm: very expansive nose of mint/eucalyptus, blackberry concentrate and oak/ full body but no sense of heaviness, huge extraction, mouth staining concentration and decent balance/ very long finish. When compared to the 1994 version (also drunk at this sitting), it was head and shoulders better. Not my kind of wine but still impressive for its style. Going out on a limb, I would say this is not a wine to age. 1985 Georges Mugneret, Ruchottes-Chambertin: the swamp water component of the nose diminishes (but does not disappear) with air, big red fruits, soy, mineral, forest floor and a light floral aspect; quite complex/ medium body with plenty of ripe fruit flavors and lots of complexity that follows the elements of the nose, solid tannic backbone still in evidence, excellent balance/ long, somewhat drying finish. An intellectual and sensual experience in the manner that only fine, old Burgundy can deliver. A grand experience. 1988 Ponsot, Clos de la Roche: old, tired, drying and not anything more than a brief moment of interest. 1991 Ridge, Geyserville (from mag.): crushed berries, crushed berries, crushed berries . . . the essence of what this wine is all about; pure, balanced, unmistakable. Delicious. 1988 Krug: a celebration of Champagne and all that is uplifting about such wine. A delight for all the senses; utterly clean and delivers, along with its succulent taste, an almost whimsical impression. Enchanting and refreshing. 2002 Paloma, barrel sample Merlot: If anyone ever wishes to know what truly ripe merlot tastes like, this is it. The ultimate fruit bomb. (This was an as yet unblended barrel of first pick Merlot from this vintage.) Many, many more that now escape my memory (is it any wonder). I enjoyed them all but not near as much as the people. I am so blessed. Best, Jim

Ripe without being jammy. But again, this wine is more about Gamay than Beaujolais. Best, Jim

Well, let's just say its one of my favorites, particularly the dryer versions. But if someone told me I could have no more Gamay, Pinot Noir or Syrah, we'd be forced to "dance." :) Best, Jim

Aperitif: 1999 Nigl, Riesling Hochacker: an extraordinary nose of lime skin, fresh air, pears, minerals, flowers and strawberry, with a touch of bacon fat and a hint of anise; very complex/ medium body, graceful and intense flavors follow the nose with a very distinct salty mineral and stone element, a smooth and viscous texture with a rain-water note, expansive in the mouth, concentrated and complex, a bright acid backbone, great balance/ very long, crisp finish. Very few wines in my experience approach the degree of complexity exhibited here. Classic Riesling but so much more. Excellent today and a great future ahead. A truly fine wine. About $18, discounted. With turkey meatballs with steamed collard greens in a chicken broth of fresh tomato and chopped basil: 2000 Lapierre Cambon Beaujolais: deep black cherry and chocolate tones in the nose with some spice, animal and baked earthen scents/ medium body, equally deep flavors follow the nose and show black fruits in addition, concentrated, dense, intense, balanced/ medium length finish with a very slight alcoholic heat. At 14.5% alcohol, this ain’t your Momma’s Beaujolais. A rich and smooth delivery of ripe flavors with lots of oomph and character. Good now; good later. About $15, discounted. Best, Jim

With a salad of arugala, pears, walnuts and blue cheese: 2000 Pieropan, Soave La Rocca: nose of cooked pears, linoleum, mineral and resin; nice complexity/ full body, very smoothly textured and tremendous concentration, flavors are all about the fruit and mineral aspects of the nose, ripeness approaching RS, lovely balance/ very long and flavor-filled finish. A remarkable wine with a good future despite seeming ready to drink now. The concentration alone must be experienced to be believed. About $20, discounted. With salmon hash (made with potatoes, collard greens and spices): 1999 Grapeleaf, Pinot Noir Sonoma County: Showed similar to a recent bottle with good cherry tones and a nice structure but a little too much wood for me. About $22, delivered. With cheese and nuts: 1996 Neyers Syrah: Nice Rhone-ish fruit, good density and some complexity that all got masked by the dill/oak overlay (nose, palate and finish). A little remains for this evening – hopefully the dill will dissipate. About $50, retail. Best, Jim

You're already signed up; what I want to know is, where were you? :) Best, Jim

Y'all come back now, ya hear? Best, Jim PS Cool graphic.

Aperitif: 1999 Salomon, Kogl Reserve Riesling: this nose is about lace and filigree with crisp white fruit scents, a bit of mineral and some fresh water aromas/ medium body (but just), clear and somewhat crisp flavors that follow the nose, some softer tones in the mineral and moving water genre, concentrated and well balanced/ medium finish. A wine that is generated around elegance and silk; nothing here is overdone or inflated. Maybe it smells like snow on the mountains and tastes like melting ice; maybe not. But it does give one the very clear impression of a place and clean and delicate. About $23, delivered. With grilled chicken breasts and sautéed mushrooms with green salad: 2000 Lafarge, Bourgogne: transparent/ clean scents of young red cherries, some black cherry and some resin and mineral/ light body, very silky in the mouth, flavors that follow the nose, very finely textured, excellent depth and some intensity, good balance/ medium finish. This wine has not taken on weight so much as density, since release. A lovely thing that speaks of Volnay as surely as it does of Burgundy. Made from fruit harvested from a vineyard formerly designated as village Volnay and containing 40 year old vines. Some wines create an impression that is greater than their sensual impressions; this is one. About $18, delivered. Best, Jim

Hors d'oeuvres: Asparagus Parmesan Pastry Rolls: Heidler 2001 Gruner Veltliner Thal: hedge flower and pineapple nose with a touch of mineral/ medium body, quite smooth, fairly viscous (touch of RS?), flavors follow nose, nice balance/ medium length finish. Not a wine for keeping but delicious with the food – and what other wine goes so well with asparagus? Second: Mushroom Onion Tartlet with Goat Cheese and Greens: Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg 2000 Bourgogne: oaky nose with some red fruit/ better on the palate but still unbalanced by the wood/ medium finish. Some nice, elegant fruit here got beat up with the wood. Baumard 1997 Savennieres Trie Sepciale: honey, white fruit and tea on the nose with hints of mineral and floral/ full body, deeply textured and flavored with good complexity playing off the elements of the nose, concentrated, lovely balance/ long finish. Utterly sublime with the dish and excellent even without. Always a great bottle. Main: Salmon with Wilted Lettuce, Cucumber Salad and a Tomato Butter Sauce: Frog's Leap 2001 Sauvignon Blanc: a pleasant, un remarkable little sauvignon that went with the cucumber salad part of the dish but not so well with the salmon. Foley 2000 Pinot Noir: a very ripe, somewhat blousy pinot without much varietal character. Cocktail wine for me; better than that for others. Not the best match with the salmon. Kistler 1995 Pinot Noir Camp Meeting Ridge: very crisp blackberry soda nose with some spice and earth; a bit tight/ more open on the palate but still that crisp, focused fruit and spice feel, concentrated and intense, good grip and balance/ long finish. Still not at peak but not showing overt oak, very clearly of its variety and place, and, by far the best match with the salmon. Dessert: Apricot Souffles Strong coffee Best, Jim

“The essential process of life is change.” – Mr. Spock Below are notes on several different wines that reminded me of Spock’s comment because, in each instance, they have changed significantly since either release or the last time I tried them. In each case, I have been fortunate to have been able to try these wines several times since release. 1989 Lynch Bages: At release, a dense, opulent wine that was thick on the palate and displayed a chocolate note; pretty tannic, too, but not as drying on the finish as that much tannin usually indicates. Lots of changes between now and then but at present, it shows a green nose and a very racy, focused palate that avoids the vegetal element in the nose but is linear and edgy. It is concentrated, intense and the flavors run deep, but the finish is clipped. I have read, on other boards, notes that are much more complimentary. Perhaps, this wine has reached that time when it is unpredictable, whether due to storage or the will of Bacchus. I will not open another for several years. 1999 Texier, Brezeme CdR: A wine of controversy at release; some found it overly acidic, some found it focused and bright. These days it has lost some (but not all) of its acidic edge and rounded a bit to show nice ripe fruit but little depth. Concentrated and very intense with a long finish, this wine is at the very beginning of its time. 1998 Clos Riche Blanche, Rouge Cot (old vine Malbec): A massive and tannic beast in its youth, this is the exception to the theme of these notes. Still a massive and tannic brute. Hold. 1999 La Favette CdR: With only local distribution here in the mid-Atlantic states, few will have this in their cellars – good. It has given years of delicious drinking pleasure since its release; ripe and clean with decent complexity and a longer finish than expected for a wine that cost $6. Today, it is losing its fruit (or hiding it) and showing that sort of acid that is almost fizzy in the mouth. Hopefully, it will return to its former glories but I’ll not hold my breath. 1995 Mt. Langi Ghiran, Langi Shiraz: A recent tasting with Matt Cooper and the gang (end of April) showed a beautifully balanced wine with gentle oak that played in the background of lovely, but not overstated fruit. Yesterday, it was an oak bomb that I could not get through – not even after decanting for several hours. I haven’t even a hint as to why such a change. 1999 GrapeLeaf, Pinot Noir Sonoma County: On release, this was thin (almost watery) and more like Kool-aid than wine. Last night it was distinctly pinot in character with excellent ripe cherry fruit, more flesh and “stuff” going on, lovely balance and no signs of the over-manipulation/ripeness/oaking I often get with CA pinot. Very clean, varietally correct and, without question, one of the best $22 (including delivery) bottles of pinot I have had. And so it goes . . . Best, Jim

With grilled salmon, asparagus and mushroom risotto: 1999 Dom. Jadot, Chateau des Jacques, Moulin-a-Vent (from magnum): clean red cherry, black cherry, earth scents, light floral tones and nice pepper/spice elements/ medium body, at first a bit tight but opens in air to flavors that follow the nose with good complexity, silken texture, great character, intense and concentrated, perfect balance/ long, very clean finish. This is a Domaine wine and still several years from its peak. Nonetheless, it is fragrant, balanced and delicious and much longer than one expects of Beaujolais. ‘Simply superb with the meal and a wine that even novice tasters were very excited about. About $40, retail. Best, Jim

In my opinion, none. The description of the crus in the "primer" is by another fellow, so that opinion is his. I think Gamay, while having certain attributes that may be similar to pinot, seldom actually tastes like it. But what I do taste, I absolutely love, especially those with the concentration and backbone to age well over several years. And, of course, many of the better Beaujolais are now made the same way Burgundy is, that is, they do not undergo carbonic maceration. Best, Jim

Aperitif: 2000 Laurent Tribut, Chablis: This basic bottling is ripe, broad, nicely balanced with a pleasant mineral streak and the character of its origin. About $16, retail. With hamburgers, vegetable stir-fry and salad: 1999 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Non-Filtre: substantial notes of black fruit amongst the red fruit on both the nose and palate, good depth of flavor, nothing floral or candied here – even somewhat earthy, definite spice tones; good length. Excellent Gamay with a medium term shelf life and more depth than one expects of Beaujolais. About $13, retail. Best, Jim

mogsob, If I may, " . . . a frightening high percentage of WHAT YOU HAVE TASTED is." I am a huge fan of Gamay and Beaujolais, in particular. Over the last year, I have bought more Gamay than any other variety and several of those cases purchased are destined for aging. The older Beau that I have had from great producers has been one of the most beautiful wines I could imagine. FWIW, what follows is my primer on Beaujolais; I use this and add to it and subtract from it as I taste more and more. In hopes that you will find any of it of interest, I post it here: Appellations: Beaujolais – accounting for about half the wine produced here, it comes from the Bas Beaujolais and the flatter land to the west of Belleville Beaujolais Superieur – is essentially from the Beaujolais appellation but must have a minimum potential alcohol of 10.5% when picked (as opposed to 10% for simple Beaujolais) Beaujolais-Villages accounts for about 25% of production and is sourced from the hills of the northern part of the Beaujolais region. Beaujolais Crus - of which there are ten, are found in this northern part and each bears the name of the commune of its origin. From north to south (approximately) the Crus are: St.-Amour, Julienas, Chenas, Moulin-a-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnie, Brouilly and Cote de Brouilly Beaujolais Nouveau – this may carry the appellation of Beaujolais, Beaujolais Superieur or Beaujolais-Villages. It is very young and generally considered to be for immediate consumption. Producers: The four small producers most recognizable (mainly due to the wine press) are Marcel LaPierre, Guy Breton, Jean Foillard and Jean-Paul Thevenet. This “gang of four” regularly gets high 80 and low 90 point ratings from Parker and others. Other producers of note are Dom. Vissoux, Louis Jadot, Jean-Paul Brun, Diochon, Paul Janin, Michael Chignard, Dominique Piron, Chat. Thixin, Dom. Dupeuble, Dom. de la Voute des Crozes, Jean Calot, Pierre et Paul Durdilly, Dom. du Granit, Alain Michaud and Georges Viornery. Two producers pointed out as very good by board participants are Laurent Martray and Jean-Paul Ruet. I have also had excellent and age-worthy wines from Coudert a/k/a Clos de la Roilette. Vintages: 1999, 2000 are excellent vintages. Personal comments: Virtually all Beaujolais rouge is made from the Gamay grape. A small amount of Beaujolais blanc is made from chardonnay. I find the Cru Beaujolais to be my favorite wines but I have had excellent Beaujolais-Villages and a few good wines from the other appellations. I find that in excellent vintages, Cru Beaujolais from very good producers can age and develop very easily for 3-5 years and, in exceptional cases, up to ten years. I also find that each of the Cru is, in the best of producer’s hands, capable of exhibiting its own terroir. This is especially true of those wines capable of aging. And I have yet to pay more than $20 a bottle for even the very finest wines. The crus (by Darby Keeney): Moulin-a-Vent: The most Burg-like (Beaune-like) of the 10 crus, these often show less forward fruit, higher acidity and more tannin than any others. If you want to age a cru, this is tradionally the one to pick. My personal opinion is that, while they are interesting wines, I prefer the perfume and crunchy quality of the more "typical" wines like Fleurie. Julienas: These wines can show some real structure under loads of forward fruit - so they are among the more age-worthy (3-4 years) of the crus. I've found these to be more fleshy than Moulin, so I personally enjoy them more - especially as I don't really age crus. I think Julienas and Morgon run more in the blackberry crowd than the other crus. Morgon: Dense wines (for Beaujolais), approaching the stature of Moulin-A-Vent in the best cases, while still giving the impression of being wholly Beaujolais. Can have the stuffing for some age. Chenas: The smallest of the crus, so these wines are less often seen around here. Most of the best land is now part of Moulin-A-Vent, I think. I feel that the wines have less density than Moulin-A-Vent or Julienas, and lack the aromatic quality that Fleurie and Chiroubles. It often leaves something missing, for my tastes at least. Then again, I haven't had more than a handful of really interesting Chenas, so I may be biased. Fleurie: Lighter in nature, but perhaps the most aromatically and texturally complete of the crus, often with a floral element beneath the ripe fruit. I think that the "crunchy fruit" quality of Beaujolais really shows in good Fleurie. For these reasons, they are best young - both the fruit and texture change fairly quickly. Very pretty wines. Chiroubles: Similar to Fleurie, but often a bit less dense. Think elegance and lightness. Is Chiroubles the Volnay of Beaujolais? Brouilly: I've found them to be missing something, as they don't have the size of the ageworthy crus and aren't as fun to drink young as Fleurie and Chiroubles. Still, they can show some nice prominent red fruit balance with structure. Regnie: The newest of the crus. It often falls in the lower part of the pack, when you think about depth and structure - maybe a bit less complete that Chirobles, but still with many of the same qualities. St.-Amour: One of the more lighter, softer, quaffing-friendly crus. Rarely would these be "serious" wines, but for a simple quaffer around the grill, they can be quite nice. Cote de Brouilly: I've not had any of these, so I'll let someone else pipe in. I've read that they "fit" somewhere around Chenas. Comments by Becky Wasserman Hone (importer of several fine Beaujolais): A bit more Beaujolais lore. The older vines have very small grapes, usually with thickish skins, and are still found on a rootstock called Viala which is apparently the best for gamay. Moulin-à-Vent, Côte de Brouilly, and Morgon are considered to be best for cellaring. There is a domaine called 'Souchons' in Morgon which has vines close to eighty years old, magnificent wine. Alain Michaud does an old vine cuvee (Cuvee Prestige) of Brouilly which is superb. Best, Jim

With pasta salad and whole grain bread: 2001 Belle Pente, Riesling: clean nose of fresh air, apple, resin and spring water/ light body, smooth texture, white fruit flavors with a touch of mineral, ver good balance such that there is sufficient acid without any loss of fruit and texture/ medium finish. $15, delivered. 2000 Nigl Riesling Goldberg: penetrating nose of pineapple, mineral and floral tones/ medium body, quite acidic, as it airs the fruit flavors (which follow the nose) become slightly rounder, very intense, concentrated, unbalanced toward acid at present/ long, very crisp finish. $29, on sale. The contrast was marked. The BP softer and more approachable; the Nigl deeper and showing so young. Still, we enjoyed the side-by-side. With grilled pork loin and mushroom risotto: 1999 Siduri, Pinot Noir Shaw Vnyd.: showing that green/reduced streak that virtually all 99 Oregon pinots have but also plenty of fruit and spice/ medium body, pretty dense without being overdone, almost no trace of the reduced element on the palate which is nicely layered with red and black fruits, concentrated, balanced/ long finish. Needs a couple years but shows well now if given some air. $56, delivered. Best, Jim

With pan-seared salmon, mushroom compote and baby greens salad: 1998 Torii Mor, Pinot Noir White Rose Vnyd.: fresh and alive on the nose; cranberry, cola, black cherry, slight spice/ medium body, bright and racy on the palate with flavors that follow the nose and add a hint of maple sugar, good depth to the flavors, intense and concentrated, well balanced/ long, clean finish. ‘Has the sensation of vigor and youth but also unusual depth. On release, this wine seemed one dimensional and simple. Although it still retains its original, ripe sweetness, it is developing some complexity and slowly opening to reveal greater depth than its first impression. Likely needs another 5 years to open fully but was excellent accompaniment to the salmon and mushrooms. 270 cases produced; about $60, delivered. With assorted cheeses: 1996 Terre Rouge, Syrah Pyramid Block: (I think this was the last year this vineyard designation was used.) high-toned syrah smells more in the Hermitage mold than what I am used to from the US/ medium body, bright and almost edgy in the mouth with an integrated series of flavors ranging from bramble to raspberry; quite intense, concentrated, balanced/ medium, crisp finish. Younger that its 7 years, it has shed a bit of its original tannin but retains its acidic backbone. Just beginning to open with good complexity and some very focused Hermitage-like syrah flavors. For the past several years this wine has been closed and simply about its structure – I am pleased to see it “coming around,” albeit gradually. Excellent with the cheese course. About $40, full retail. Best, Jim