Florida Jim

Bern's Steak House, Tampa, FL A world renown list that weighs as much as a Buick. Except they don't have half the stuff and there is no effort whatever to edit the list.

Castagna, Portland, Oregon. A very small list (and a relatively small place) that is so well chosen I read each entry with greater and greater excitement. No super-famous wines, no absurd prices, just authentically good wines from all over the world. Becco, NYC Wonderful Italian food at reasonable prices and not a single wine that did not compliment the food. Also, not one over $20. Bravo. Slanted Door, SF, CA The freshest food I've found and wines that match. Whoever chose the list understands both wine and the cuisine of the house.

When I see a restaurant wine list with, say, a Joly, I tend to assume that it's there almost out of a sense of obligation. But otherwise, if it fits my budget and the cuisine, I'm all over a nice Savennieres. It is often a sign to me that someone actually cares. Craig, The importer's misfortune is our good fortune - such is business, I suppose. Michael, When I see such things on a wine list, I examine it closely and in its entirity - just maybe I've got someone picking the list who really can - it happens occasionally. Best, Jim

With leftover homemade cream of broccoli soup: 1996 Baumard, Savennieres Clos du Papillon: This is a half bottle from last night which was re-corked and put in the cellar overnight. It is the same extraordinary wine with slightly less aromatics but a bit more integration and fruit sweetness. This wine will live a long time but it is simply wonderful right now. With grilled chicken breasts, puree of sweet potato and roasted mushrooms with pine nuts: 1997 Kistler, Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast: Again, half a bottle left from last night shows the same signature clove aromatics and flavors. This could be made of anything and be from anywhere. If I were guessing blind I’d say dry Zinfandel, but I would have no idea its origin. Aside: I do not understand these types of wines. Priced dearly, mountains of hype, many folks clamoring to receive even a single bottle – all I can do is shake my head in wonder. I am missing something here – it reminds me of the proud mother that goes to the military academy graduation ceremonies for her son and, as the class marches by, turns to the commandant to inquire why everyone except her son is out of step. 2000 Casa Brinia, Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato: lovely aromatics of red fruit, light leather, clean earth and fresh air/ medium body, worsted texture, flavors follow the nose with nuance and an almost weightless sensation, perfect balance/ lingering finish that shows sufficient grip to make me think a little time in the cellar might be nice. The Piedemont produces some beautiful wines, and this is one of them. More Asti then Alba, sort of Nebbiolo goes Beaujolais, if you will; translucent, clearly of its place, delightful with food and . . . wait for it . . . $18, full retail including tax. I guess I understand what I need to. Best, Jim

Mark, The 96 Clos has such a long life ahead and yet it still is so deftly made it can be enjoyed now. As for Kistler pinots; I have had a good number of them and I have yet to have one that really spoke to me. They are sort of freakish in style and could be from anywhere - no sense of place. I think Steve Kistler makes pinot into interesting wines of a non-descript variety that better reflect his talent than the vineyard site. That doesn't make them bad (or good) but they are usually not my preference. Even so, it will be interesting tonight to see how it fares with 24 hours open in the cellar. Best, Jim

With homemade cream of broccoli soup: 1996 Baumard, Savennieres Clos du Papillon: If I had ten cases of this, I wouldn’t have enough. I bought this on close-out for about $8/bottle and it is the best wine bargain of my life. Fabulous nose of chamomile tea, flowers, white fruit, stones, rain water and citrus/ Full body, oily texture, deep and incredibly intense flavors follow the nose, profound complexity, solid acids, remarkable concentration and great balance (it is just plain hard to believe they got this much flavor in this 750ml bottle)/ Endlessly long, strongly flavored finish that is both clean and compelling. Still shows young but a great wine in every sense of the word. Grand vin. With grilled pork chop and pasta with caramelized onions and black olives: 1997 Kistler, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir: A nose completely dominated by cloves; some allspice and dried fruit/ The palate has a little more dried fruit but it is still a minority player to the dominant clove, pepper, allspice and citric flavors; very bright and crisp acids, a linear presentation of flavors (except for the clove, which is pervasive), intense and concentrated, lots of grip/ Short, clipped but cleansing finish. I liked it as a wine (although the Chenin was better with this dish) but this smells and tastes more like Zinfandel than Pinot Noir. I put the cork back in the bottle and put it in the cellar for the night; tomorrow should be interesting . . . Best, Jim

Sara, You must call for an appointment, but a tour and tasting at Domaine Drouhin is not to be missed. Excellent wines, a beautiful facility and some of the nicest staffers anywhere. Best, Jim

With salad including manchego, fresh figs and walnuts: 2000 J.J. Christoffel, Erdener Treppchen, Riesling Spatlese: slightly closed but very clean nose of sweet citrus, mineral, pear, floral scents and a little honeycomb/ light bodied, smoothly textured and youthful in the mouth, flavors echo the nose, well-integrated and balanced with good intensity/ long, clean finish. Too young for any real complexity but, like so many of this producer’s wines, delicious nonetheless. With roast pork with a veggie chili: 1994 Ridge, Pagani Ranch Zin.: an element of smoky bacon leads to exotic poached fruit aromas/ medium body, very together with flavors that follow the nose, slightly drying, good concentration and balance/ medium length finish that is both slightly drying and repeats the smoky element. What a pleasure it has been to follow this wine since release. With almost port-ish fruit in its youth to this extravagant if slightly tired final bottle; a pleasing wine all the way. With pasta with salmon and artichoke hearts: 1998 Belle Pente, Murto Vnyd. Pinot Noir: an expansive nose of black fruit, earth and tonic water/ medium body, round and pure fruit tones, a little mushroom and mineral all sewn together with grace and balance/ medium length, slightly cleansing finish. The tonic water element lifts the nose and cleanses the finish but plays second fiddle to smooth but somewhat closed fruit. I think this needs a year or two to resolve. With cheese and crackers: 1998 Paloma, Syrah: some smoke and pepper introduces the ripe, black fruit and earth tones that suggest earlier vintages of this wine/ medium body, smooth and approachable fruit, some depth and good concentration, nicely balanced/ long, somewhat smoky finish. I do believe that Paloma has established its own sense of place with its syrah which is clearly Californian in style but Old World in weight. No wood interferes with either. Recent tastings show lots of life left in this and all of the vintages of this wine. Best, Jim

Although I am definitely oak averse and my notes will always reflect that bias, I do think that some cuvees in some years come close to doing it right. This one was not even close - I could not put it in my mouth - overwhelming oak/turpentine. Best, Jim

It had been awhile since one of our dinners at Greg’s house in High Point, NC. So on a crisp October day, the day of the first World Series game, we gathered to enjoy the game, each other’s company, beef tenderloin, roasted potatoes, brown buttered endive, salad, cheeses, bread and pate along with a few wines of note: Whites: 1996 Kistler, Cuvee Cathleen Chardonnay: others enjoyed it; IMO, a poster child for deforestation. 2001 Dom. Thevenot-Le Brun, Bougogne (Pinot Beurot): a light, clean wine with a slightly resinous quality. 1990 Ferret, Pouilly-Fume Cuvee Hors-Classe: honeyed on the nose, rich and dense on the palate with excellent persistence; unlike any other Pouilly I have had. Delicious. 1999 D. Daguineau, Pouilly-Fume, Buisson Renard: speaking of unusual Pouilly, there is just no mistaking the producer when one first smells this wine; petrol, unripe pineapple and that chalky minerality of the region; extremely dense and viscous but not weighty in the mouth, with good cut, intense flavor and sustain. Superb. Reds: 1996 Druet, Bourgueil Vaumereau: high toned red fruit, violets, herbs and minerals in the nose, quite complex; big and tannic on the palate with purity and focus; drying finish. Needs a decade of sleep. 2000 Dugat, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er: not as oaky as I expected and well packed but needing time. Still lovely in the mouth and alluring despite its youth. 1995 Phelps, Insignia (magnum): pretty substantial oak to begin, it diminishes some over time; smooth and almost soft in the mouth but not from lack of structure – rather a fruit sweetness type of thing. Along with the Hermitage, the most ready to drink of the reds this night but has lots of life left. 1994 Abreau, Cab.: less oaky than the Insignia but also less ready to drink. Very focused almost linear on the palate; excellent concentration and structure and just lovely to smell. Needs more time. 1999 Texier, Hermitage: the most integrated and seamless of the reds with very clear syrah, meat, pepper scents and flavors all smoothly incorporated into a wine of texture and grace. Wonderful wine. 1999 Texier, Cote-Rotie VV: nowhere near ready to drink but clearly of its place, stuffed and very well made. Hold 2001 Pride, Syrah: maybe if we’d have tasted this by itself or had it alone with the food but on this night and in this company, forgettable. 1993 Bryant, Cab.: what a pity – this is a wood-dill-milk shake with little to redeem it or even indicate that its variety – processed, homogenized wine product. Yech. 1989 La Conseillante: WOTN for everyone but me (the Hermitage) this was sensational on the nose with multiple layers that rose and fell in intensity; a beautifully textured and structured wine that opened with complexity and nuance against perfectly ripe fruit and harmonious balance. 750 ml was simply not enough. 1985 Heitz, Martha’s Vnyd. Cab.: expecting mint juice was I – wrong, was I. Not as complex or intriguing as the Conseillante but every bit as textured and balanced. Showing little sign of its age and probably in need of another ten years (or more) this is focused and delicious. I slept through a 98 Chave, rouge. Oh, by the way, who won? Best, Jim

With butternut squash soup (with onions and apples), and, then a salad of baby greens, manchego, walnuts and fresh figs: 2001 Donnhoff, Estate Riesling: This wine has come together since release and shows flint, white fruit, sarsaparilla and citrus on the nose with a palate that echoes the nose and has picked-up richness. Long, detailed and structured, it is no danger of falling off. Lovely wine and one of the best wine and food matches I have ever had (both dishes). With grilled (rare) wild, king salmon with caramelized onions: 1996 Jadot, Clos St. Denis: Serious wine with good structure and dimensional but focused fruit, great depth and intensity, well concentrated, good balance and an overall sense of weightless elegance. The focus and weightless intensity are really impressive and it was a very good match with the dish. Many years to peak. Best, Jim

With a seafood stew in red sauce (Mahi-mahi, shrimp and scallops) and a Caesar salad: 1999 Siduri, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley: Despite its 14% alcohol this wine captures its Oregon origins with crisp, cranberry scents and flavors backed with dark fruit, forest floor and spice nuances. No discernable heat or wood, plenty of cut but just a bit short; this wine was very good with the stew. 1999 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Prestige: Expansive aromatics of black cherry, mineral and smoldering leaves – all very nicely integrated but still discreet enough to identify lead to a palate of black cherry and red cherry tones with a solid mineral streak and a little spice and smoke. Excellent intensity and concentration without any sense of weight. A long, structured finish reminds me that I should let the rest of my bottles of this sleep awhile. Very good with the meal. Best, Jim

With a light lunch of turkey roll-ups, olives, cheeses, crackers, nuts and chips: 2000 J.P. Droin, Les Clos: A deceptive wine that comes across as complete and resolved but with small moments when, on the back of the palate or that first whiff, it shows more “stuff” almost buried under the concentrated ripe fruit, excellent balance. Young and powerful with years to go until it shows all that is there. No sign of wood. With dinner: First course; a seafood mélange (shrimp, scallops and mahi-mahi) with a very light cream sauce: 1995 Moncuit, Cuvee Nichole Moncuit VV, Champagne: Deeply scented and flavored for bubbly and not near as yeasty as some I have had with excellent mousse and great length. Palate cleansing and flavorful; a rare combination for my experience with Champagne. Delicious with the dish. Second course; macaroni and cheese, and, a warm salad of spinach and mushrooms: 1999 Gallet, Cote-Rotie: Hickory smoked bacon aromas dominate the nose with accents of warm bricks, berries, plums and black pepper. A worsted texture on the palate, ripe fruit, some of the smokiness, concentrated and intense with solid tannins and beautiful balance. There is elegance to the entire package despite both the fruit and structure being pretty intense. A very fine example of its appellation and superb with the food. Thanks John. Best, Jim

With salmon cakes, rib-eyes and mac and cheese: 2000 Lafarge, Bourgogne: starting to close down as the tannin is really showing on the finish and it smells of dirt; still a nice, lightweight texture and plenty of cherry fruit. Hold 1996 Roumier, Las Cras: very powerful wine, gently oaky, but no integration and pretty hard-edged; excellent juice that needs many years. Hold. 1991 Montelena, Cab.: sensational nose of the purest blackberry and currant with earthy tones and some spice; resolved but still has grip, smooth as satin in the mouth, flavors echo the nose with some complexity, expansive on the palate, well integrated and perfectly balanced; medium length finish. A wine that is completely together. Showing very well after about two hours decanted and one of the best domestic cabs. I have ever had – maybe the best. Drink. Best, Jim

It is entirely possible that Matt is out of fashion these days - I find that a plus on his behalf. His "Making Sense of Burgundy" is an excellent, albeit out of print, text on the subject. He is entertaining a great deal of the time - something very few wine writers can claim. And he is open minded and, I find him, unpretentious. I have not read the piece of which you speak, but I do enjoy his writing and will get round to it soon. Best, Jim

Yep. And what's all this nonsense I keep hearing about the 98 vintage being bad - can't prove it by this wine. Best, Jim

Ah, the joys of excess. It was downright cold out when the six of us assembled for breakfast. The thermometer on the porch reported 34 degrees but the wind kept amending that report. Diane made some scones and there was fruit and such. Some Linzer tortes had also appeared courtesy of our Tennessee contingent. Much coffee. Eventually, a decision was made to take a walk in the woods. And so we enter upon our first excess of the day; six miles of walk. The upside to this distance is that we kept warm and dogs would sleep well tonight, the downside . . . well, that’s pretty obvious. Wearily, we returned home to plates of cheese and crackers, truffle pâté, sliced capicola, pistachio nuts and the following wines: 1995 Donnhoff, Riesling Spatlese, Oberhauser Brucke: not bad but clearly off; storage issues was the consensus. 2001 F.X. Pichler, Riesling Res. “M”: immense wine that almost overdoes its variety; the rest of my bottles will sleep awhile. 1993 Raveneau, Chablis, Chapelot: crystalline wine; pure and clean and full of minerals; not as dense as some of this producer’s wines but a delight, nonetheless. 1995 Rollin, Corton-Charlemagne: returning from being banished to the refrigerator over night, this still smelled like turpentine and Calvados; Nathan said it tasted better and I won’t argue that but I’m not agreeing, either. The dinner bell rang (actually, Trinka rounded-up the gang) and we enjoyed cauliflower soup with white truffle oil, roast chickens, roasted potatoes, grilled radicchio, green beans and roasted onions. To accompany: First, a trio of 2002 Gamay, side-by-side: 2002 Clos Roche Blanche: just delicious with lots of mineral, ripe fruit and excellent length. 2002 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie: wound pretty tight to begin with, by the time the evening was over this showed depth and complexity well beyond its appellation. A great wine in the making. Hold. 2002 Diochon, Moulin-a-Vent: wide open and juicy right now with a solid backbone. Nice but not on the level with the other two. And then: 1998 Georges Mugneret, Chambolle-Musigny, Les Feusselottes: fruit sweet and sappy, superb with the meal, excellent by itself; perfect balance. A delight. 1988 Chave, Hermitage (rouge): at peak and very well resolved with leather and tobacco notes amongst mature fruit flavors and some pretty spice accents. Great wine. 1996 Chave, Hermitage (rouge): pump up the volume on the preceding wine and add younger fruit; notable length. A wine well on its way to greatness. Intermezzo: NV Foreau, Vouvray Brut (sparkling): edgy stuff that is clear and crisp and palate cleansing; a little goes a long way. 1990 Jacquesson, Blanc de Blanc Champagne (375 ml): tired but still yeasty and yummy. Dessert: A concoction of sautéed bananas, macadamia nuts, yogurt cheese and spices was served with: 1972 Bodegas Toro Albala, PX Gran Reserva (375 ml): thick as motor oil and yet beautifully balanced, killer with the dessert. After dinner: 1995 La Mission Haut-Brion: Oh my! Absolutely stellar wine with power and nuance, complexity and focus, great depth and so clearly of its place as to be nearly unmistakably “La Mish.” WOTN and then some. Somewhere during the evening (maybe just before dessert) the beatings began; first, Nathan spanking Trinka, then Kathleen spanking Nathan; I’m not really sure how it started. Maybe it was Nathan’s nickname being bastardized into, among other things, pretty-vulgar-sexy-little monkey-boy-thing. Perhaps, it was Nathan being accused of looking like Jamie Sheridan. ‘Could have been the scotch. Whatever, it was clear that we had all come a bit unglued (in a good way – no one was permanently scarred) and that the effects of our earlier forced march were catching up with us. Even the dogs took cover. Ah yes, the joys of excess. Best, Jim

Straight from the cellar; 57 degrees. Best, Jim

On a chilly second day of October, Nathan (Vandergrift), Kathleen, John (Blackwood), Trinka, Diane and I gathered at our home in the western mountains of North Carolina to discuss grand events, eat great food and drink fine wine. We succeeded in two out of three. Dinner was a mixed antipasto including tomato galettes, assorted olives, sautéed mushrooms, white beans with fried sage, grilled pork loin, capicola, fresh arugala, mozzarella, roasted red peppers, artichoke pesto, etc. with the following wines being served: Starters: 2002 Giacosa, Roero Arneis: fast becoming my “go to” wine, this is a lightweight, silken textured expression of a lovely-spring-morning-type-wine. ‘Gone almost before we knew it. 1996 Cotat, Sancerre, Les Culs de Beaujeu, Cuvee Speciale: a truly spectacular nose of ripe fruit and stones; the palate, although good, could not measure up but delivered very clean and fresh white fruit and mineral flavors. But what a nose . . . With dinner: 1990 Aldo Conterno, Barolo, Vigna Cicala Bricco Bussia: smelled like insecticide, dirt, red fruit and a touch of nail polish remover; pretty well resolved on the palate with subtle red fruit and earth flavors, some grip. Others liked this better than I; perhaps, they will chime in. 1996 Joguet, Chinon, Clos du Chene Vert: herb and black fruit nose; hard and slightly green-ish on the palate with ripe fruit and good intensity; excellent length. ‘Needs years. 1997 Dom. Clusel-Roch, Cote-Rotie, Les Grandes Places: wonderful Cote-Rotie nose filled with nuance and typicity; medium weight, solid flavors are equally typical of this wine’s home; long finish. As deft and clear an expression of Cote-Rotie as one could ask for. 1996 Allemand, Cornas: an angry wine that was hard and dry and not much fun; others loved it. 1999 Dom. Rambasse Charvin, Syrah, Vin de Pays: take the above wine and add sugar and green peppers. 2000 Casa Brina, Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato: wine of the night by quite some; beautiful clean fruit and earth nose; very focused and perfectly balanced on the palate; nice length. I do wish this were more available in the states – sort of Nebbiolo goes Beaujolais, in a good way. 1995 Rollin, Corton-Charlemagne: turpentine and sugar syrup nose; disjointed and very nearly unpleasant on the palate. We recorked it and sent it to the refrigerator for the night. Tomorrow is another day . . . Best, Jim

These were tasted at dinners throughout this month. 2002 Giacosa, Roero Arneis: a light, clean nose gives way to a ripe, lightly citric palate with moderate concentration and nice balance; medium length. A very versatile wine; anything from aperitif to accompaniment with lighter fare. Ready now but in no danger of fading. Delicious. 2000 J.P. Droin, Vaillons: typical Chablis nose of cold running stream water, lemon zest and mineral; very clean and focused palate echoes the nose with concentration, intensity and excellent balance; long finish. Not even a hint of wood (this producer uses some new oak on this cuvee) and as delightful an example of what good 1er Chablis can be about as one could imagine. Probably needs 4-5 years to reach peak but drinks well now. 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet: not showing the same degree of smoothness and concentration it did when younger, this wine still delivers a lovely, unmanipulated expression of good Crozes. Seems to be closing-up a bit but it still tastes great. Hold. 1999 Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Non-Filtre: cherry-raspberry nose with some slate and clean earth tones; crisp and fruit driven on the palate with a freshness belying its 4 years, some mineral complexity; medium length, cleansing finish. Excellent stuff and clearly of its place. Will cellar short term. 2000 Clos Roche Blanche, Gamay: along the lines of the preceding wine but even more cut and more depth of fruit; the kind of wine you can leave open on the counter for a day or two and be even more impressed with when you come back to it. Superb juice, everytime. Bags of life. 2000 Zenato, Valpolicella Ripassa: “Amarone light,” my friend says and while that has some truth in it, this has its own personality; fruit sweet, very ripe but not raisened, concentrated, intense and extracted with good persistence. Without the proper food it’s ponderous; with it, it takes on a depth that isn’t there when it’s flying solo. Drinking nicely today and will for many tomorrows. 1991 Sullivan, Merlot: patience has its virtues; juicy and fresh despite its 12 years of age and substantial sediment, nicely integrated and complex, still well-structured but it doesn’t stick out until the finish where it is just slightly drying. May get better but fine now. And the taster that can pick this blind as merlot has my utmost respect – very Bordeaux-ish. Best, Jim

With leek and potato soup: 1998 Ollivier, Muscadet Clos des Briords VV: quite aromatic; in the mouth it shows some of the creamy texture that time can bring, still firm but intensely flavorful, cleansing acidity; very long. An excellent wine that is evolving very slowly. With tuna grilled rare and a large salad: 1999 Dugat-Py, Vosne Romanee VV: expansive nose permeates the room; the palate is dense, very concentrated, vigorous, full and packed with flavor, has excellent old vine depth, intense and youthful but not closed; very long with noticeable, ripe tannins. Sumptuous and very full in the mouth, this was surprisingly open. Tasted blind, one would have difficulty believing this to be a village wine. Dramatic stuff. Best, Jim

Recent tastes: All of these were served with various food that I thought appropriate to the wine. 1999 Grapeleaf, Pinot Noir Russian River: nice translucency, somewhat oaky petite red fruit nose, big whiskey barrel oak on the palate obliterates the fruit. Too bad as the ‘99 Sonoma bottling was a lovely, elegant wine. 1995 Beaux Frees, Pinot Noir: pleasant pinot with no undue wood or signs of over-extraction (to my surprise), fairly well integrated and balanced; but there’s no “there” there – it is a muted version of generic pinot from anywhere. Not objectionable and nothing amiss but characterless. 2001 Copain, Syrah Cailloux & Coccinelle: tasted over several days, this is Washington meets Cote-Rotie type syrah done well; it has very distinct elements of leather, black pepper, olive and mineral on the nose and palate but also delivers a big, very ripe fruit in the mouth; not my ideal syrah but very tasty and certainly having a distinct character. I have the vague feeling this will be better young but have nothing to support that. About $36, delivered. 1996 Clos Marie, “Les Glorieuses” (Pic Saint Loup); big tannins on day one – back in the cellar it goes; with roast pork on day two, it was better balanced with grainy red fruit, a distinct earthiness and pretty good length. Clearly of its place, this was an interesting, if not fascinating, wine. Needs time. About $20, discounted retail at release. Recent vintages of this wine sell for multiples of that price and have not impressed (IMO they are showing less of the earth and more of the winemaker.) Best, Jim

1996 Domaine du Closel, Savennieres “Clos du Papillon” Cuvee Speciale: a penetrating nose of chamomile, flowers, honey, citrus, quince, rainwater and minerals; at once complex and clean yet fully integrated/ medium body, the texture of cream and once again, while there is even more complexity than the nose (adding hay, apricot, peach and flint to those elements) the overall impression is one of total integration (the essence of Savennieres, if you will) with all the elements strung upon an almost hidden structure, dense, rich, constantly changing but of a single whole, intense, immensely concentrated, very deep, almost marrowy on the palate but still bright, with perfect balance despite its 14% alcohol (not even a suggestion of alcoholic heat)/ very long on the finish with the impression of precise balance amongst the many elements of flavor that echo and meld together. Challenging, reflective, sublime; perhaps just the slightest RS – not any impression of sweetness but rather of ripe completeness. Great harmony. Delicious and mouth watering. Enjoyed with a soup Diane made of every green vegetable and leaf she could find with a bit of milk and butter thrown in. A perfect match. Aside: I have become very fond of white wines over the past several years – even more so than reds. But none, save the very finest Gruner Veltliners, have impressed me like this. Not white Burgs., not Chablis, not Riesling (from anywhere), not even other Chenin from Vouvray or Layon. This is one of the best wines I’ve ever had. About $18, delivered (at release). Best, Jim

My thanks to Alan was because he brought it to me; he lives in Canada. Best, Jim

With pistachios: 2002 Giacosa, Arneis: lemony spring water with a hint of bleach/ light bodied, viscous, flavors follow the nose with some depth, well-delineated on the palate, nice balance/ medium length, very clean finish. Lovely, light-weight wine for sipping and aperitif. 1995 Moncuit, Cuvee Nicole Moncuit Champagne: fresh bread-yeast nose with hints of citrus/ elegant and flavorful with good balance and mousse/ medium finish. Delicious wine that drinks way too easily. With pasta with smoked salmon and capers: 2000 Raveneau, Foret Chablis: very floral nose – unlike any other Foret I have encountered/ medium body, quite open and integrated with beautiful, ripe chardonnay flavors that tend toward the mineral, perfect balance/ long finish. Terrific wine, albeit atypical and the exact match for the dish. With a frittata of gruyere and shitakes: 1999 Ravenau, Montee de Tonnerre Chablis: more typical on the nose than the Foret with fresh fruit, flint, and light honey scents/ medium body, very open and approachable with flavors that follow the nose, nice intensity and superb balance/ long finish. I am surprised that it was showing as well as it was; usually this vineyard requires a few more years. Great stuff. With poached dried apricots, sautéed bananas and almonds with yogurt cream: 2000 Thirty Bench, Riesling Eiswine (Niagara Peninsula) (200ml): light honey and floral aromas/ medium body, quite sweet but not cloying, clean on the palate with flavors that follow the nose/ long finish. Excellent with the dish, adding a touch of sweetness that Diane had purposely left out of the dessert. Thanks Alan. Best, Jim