Florida Jim

Dick, I suggest to you that "poetry in a bottle" can often move one to wax poetic. I see nothing wrong with a bit of passion - equally, I see nothing wrong with those that are not so moved. Best, Jim

Aperitif: 1990 Salomon, Riesling Pfaffenberg Reserve: light bleach water and honey with pineapple and stone scents; very clean/ medium body; cooked pineapple, honey, mineral and apple flavors with a slight smoky edge; although viscous this wine has a lot of cut – the acids are alive and well, intense, concentrated and just ever so slightly out of balance toward acid/ very long, mouth-coating finish. Decanted three hours as this bottle can have some sulpher smells upon opening. A truly complex wine with all sorts of interesting peaks and valleys across the palate. About $25, delivered. With caramelized onions and wild salmon cooked rare: 1999 Sylvie Esmonin, Clos Saint-Jacques: penetrating nose of red and black fruit with a whiff of gravel dust/ medium bodied, flavors follow the nose but are pinched, mid-palate starts thin but gains weight as the wine opens, very well balanced/ medium length finish. Closed on both the nose and palate and showing little of the plush power that arises from this dirt. Good juice but an infant. Hold. About $45, delivered. Best, Jim

This is one worth another chance. The tasting format, whether formal or informal like this one, is a very limited way to judge wine - I keep that in mind when I go to them. And, regarding this wine, it is part of the portfolio of a friend so I may well get a second chance. Best, Jim

As mentioned, you are always welcome to come see the "right" part. Best, Jim

Last night, was the harmonic convergence - some enchanted evening. Diane and I went off to a Charity wine tasting that featured a very good jazz band, a really delicious array of finger type foods and the wines of most of North Carolina’s distributors. Most of what was available for tasting was front line stuff but there were a few goodies and some nice discoveries for the bargain hunter in me. Brief notes follow: 2002 Catena, Malbec: solidly built, ripe fruit, decent depth and fair persistence. $18. 2002 Avinogesi, Rosso: more approachable than the first wine with bright fruit and good length – a nice little wine in the $15 category. NV Duval-Leroy Brut, Champagne: delightfully creamy but clean; I usually don’t like creamy bubbly but this was quite good. $26. 2002 Rocca Bianca, Pinot Grigio: too sweet for me but light wine intended as aperitif, I hope. $9. 2002 Jaboulet, Crozes-Hermitage Les Jalets: smelled and tasted like southern Rhone; simple quaffing stuff for folks who don’t expect it to resemble something from the north. $16. 2000 Anderew Will, Ciel de Cheval: volatile, overoaked, in pieces and hot; disgusting. $48. 1994 Porto Rocha, Colheta Port: sweet but killer with a chocolate cake. $24. 2000 Parasio, Syrah: awful wine; dry, woody, tannic; nothing to redeem it. $20. 2000 Rock Rabbit, Syrah: ripe fruit, very forward, no wood; quaffable, if simple. $13. 2002 Santa Julia, Malbec: Wow! Nicely layered on the nose; depth and harmony on the palate, excellent structure, ripe without the slightest hint of overripe, no wood; long finish. $7.50; I’ll buy a case of this tomorrow. 2000 Ornellaia-Le Serre Nuove: boring but unflawed. $48. 2000 Ornellaia-Le Volte: a nice sangiovese nose with a bit more structure and depth than the usual Chianti; pretty good. $20. NV Bisol, Prosecco: fair but a touch too sweet and not much else. $16. 1998 Aston Vale, Prospect 1870: simple and short but not bad. $21. 2001 Byron, Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley: stemmy, forest floor almost no fruit on the nose; similar on the palate; for those who enjoy unripe pinot (and, from the SM Valley, I’d like to know how the hell that happens). $19. NV Francois Montand, Blanc de Blanc (Languedoc): austere type bubbly with a nice freshness and a fairly clean delivery. $9. 2002 Groth, Sauvignon Blanc: served too cold but still smelled and tasted like ripe grapefruit; some depth and a very smooth texture despite good acidity; excellent juice. $15. 2000 Cape Mentelle, Semillon-Sauvignon: sort of a cross between diesel fuel and rancid honey; nasty stuff. $16. 2000 Morgan, Pinot Noir: candied, disjointed, hot; the second sip is one too many. $25. Attendance was about 400 people dressed from smart casual to formal. Sufficient eye-candy for both sexes, everyone being civil, even convivial, no pushing or hogging at the tables where wine was being poured, no drunks, and we came upon many friends both old and new. As we left, the eclipse was just reaching full; a pale red veil across the face of the moon. On the way home, we got calls from several other friends making sure we were watching the eclipse and chatting joyfully about what good days they had enjoyed. This morning its 37 degrees, still, crisp, completely clear skies of Carolina blue and great to be alive. There may be something to this convergence stuff. Best, Jim

With roast pork and butternut squash risotto on wilted Swiss chard: 1999 Hamacher, Pinot Noir: Dark fruit, wax, very gentle wood and spice tones on the nose; somewhat expansive/Medium body, quite firm and intense in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose, good concentration, noticeable but fine tannins, bright acids, excellent balance/Persistent but slightly drying finish. Without food this was almost painfully intense; with food it smoothed out nicely and the structure took a back seat. This is very promising wine; hold. About $38, delivered.* With tomato soup and cheese toast: 1995 Vincent Arroyo, Petite Sirah: A barrel sample kind of wine that needs decades in the cellar; disjointed, brawny and coarse. Did not work with the food. Not necessarily a bad wine but not worth trying at this point. Hold and then hold some more. About $20, delivered.* Best, Jim * Price at release.

A very wise choice. This has immense potential but not even decanting will help it at this point. Best, Jim

Aperitif: 2002 Castelvero, Cortese Monferrato: Light, refreshing stuff with just enough character to give me something to hang my hat on. Quaffing wine; no more, no less. About $9.50. With Cauliflower soup with truffles: 2002 Broglia, Gavi “La Meirana:” Entirely another animal from the previous wine (despite being made of the same grape), this is deeply flavored and scented with bright acidity and good cut. Sort of the Chablis of Italy. Fine with the dish. About $$14. With Tagliolini with Porcini: 2000 Poderi Alasia, Barbera D’Asti Superiore “Rive:” Not your Mama’s Barbera; rich, smooth and dense with a powerful fruit nose and excellent concentration. This does not carry the character of Barbera that I know but it is an interesting wine that matched the fare well. About $19. With pheasant stuffed with truffles: 2001 Pecchenino, Dolcetto di Dogliani “San Luigi:” Bearing more than a passing similarity to the previous wine, this softened somewhat in the mouth and was more persistent. I have had other wines from this producer that I liked better but it accommodated the food well. About $18. With fricassee of rabbit, quail egg in pastry and potato gnocchi: 1996 Produttori, Barbaresco Riserva “Vigneti Moccagatta:” A wine opened before its time but one of great character. Throughout the tasting it delivered hints of days to come but never opened to the point where one could capture those days. Immense potential but only fair with this dish. About $48. With Panna Cotta: 2002 Marenco, Moscato d’Asti “Scrapona:” WOTN and, aside from the Spinetta version of this grape, the single best Moscato I can recall. Absolutely clean and crisp with not the slightest cloying or tendency toward ginger ale or spumante; fresh, crystalline and stellar with the dessert; a breath of fresh air. About $14. Best, Jim

Certainly. The Donnhoff was $13, discounted. The SQN was $63, from the mailing list. Any price I list will include all costs (taxes, shipping, handling, packaging, etc.) and, unless otherwise noted, was paid at time of release. I'll try to make a point of doing this with as many wines as possible in the future. Best, Jim

With a lunch of crackers, cheese, cold cuts, olives and apples: 2001 Donnhoff, Riesling (QbA): Each bottle of this I open now is less and less sweet as the stone and mineral elements take-over. Elegant and light on the palate but intensely flavored; lovely pear and apple flavors accented with stone and citrus hints, that deep, pure streak of minerality coupled with solid acids brightening and holding everything in focus; lots of persistence. One terrific bottle and I am so pleased to have more of it in the cellar. With chicken breasts, Portobello mushrooms and zucchini all baked in a bag: 1998 Sine Qua Non, Pinot Noir “Veiled”: The nose is dominated by forest floor and wax aromas with gentle oak and some red fruit while the palate emphasizes the fruit and spice aspects of the wine. The oak is noticeable but it does not overwhelm and there is pretty good depth and even some complexity. ‘Nicely balanced and it shows some Shea vineyard typicity. It should be said that this is not my style of pinot and that I have little use for anything this producer does. Nonetheless, I can see why folks would enjoy this wine. It reminds me of some of Dominique Laurent’s wines; solid fruit and structure with more wood then I like. Not bad wines, just not my preference. On the other hand, the price is absurd. Best, Jim

Wine opened without food: 2002 Bruno Giacosa, Roero Arneis: Very fresh citrus and grassy tones on the nose/ Light bodied but no lack of concentration, flavors echo the nose with intensity, good balance/ Long finish. The perfect aperitif and a delight on a warm day. With pasta with squash, black olives, sun-dried tomatoes and onions: 2000 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Non-Filtre: Fresh, ripe cherries with stone and spice scents/ Medium body, the flavors echo the nose and seem to expand into every part of the mouth, intense, a definite mineral streak, structured, well balanced/ Medium length finish. Has sufficient structure to last several years but tastes great today and was excellent with the dish. With red snapper baked with tomatoes, black olives, mozzarella and pesto: 2000 Lafarge, Bourgogne: Beautiful cherry and raspberry nose with some earth tones/ Medium body but quite elegant and almost delicate on the palate, flavors follow the nose and add light spice and strawberry elements, great balance/ Medium finish with just a hint of tannin to dry it. Translucent and delicious; a really fine bottle that will last a little while. Excellent with the fish. With crackers and cheese: 1993 Kiona, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (375): Dark fruit, herbs and a touch of chocolate on the nose/ Full body, most of the herb flavors have toned down a bit since the last bottle, pretty well resolved, with good concentration and balance/ Long finish. Much nicer than the last bottle as it seems to be more integrated and better resolved. Good with cheese. Best, Jim

"Well, as I was telling my customers last year- you'd better buy all the '97 Brunellos you can, 'cause WS says it's the best EVER, so it's all downhill from here!" Oof, I think I'll shop elsewhere. "And RP is over the top. Anyone read the new issue? The reviews of Alois Kraacher's dessert "wines" are a hoot! "More like a gelatinous fluid than wine...butterscotch squares whipped into condensed milk...a diabetic's nightmare...400g residual sugar/ liter" (I'm quoting from memory-you must read it!)" For a man who was trained in the precision of language, he certainly has left his lessons behind. Best, Jim

With a caramelized onion frittata, olive bread toast and a small green salad: 1995 Pavillon Blanc du Chateau Margaux: Some sherry and stem scents along with ripe sauvignon fruit, a touch of pear and a hint of honey/ Light body but still pretty dense and viscous, nicely citric on the palate with flavors that echo the nose, almost crisp (certainly clean), intense, good balance/ Medium length, crisp finish. An interesting wine but not fascinating; better with the food than without; and honestly, I’m glad it’s my last bottle. Aside: Does it seem to you that dry, white Bordeaux is more vintage sensitive than most other wines? It does to me. With lentil stew: 2000 Siduri, Pinot Noir Willamette Valley: Bright and sweet red fruit and spice on the nose/ Medium body, sweet and ripe red fruit with some spice and mineral tones, good concentration and intensity, well balanced/ Medium length finish. The right wine for a small toast to the newest member of the Lee clan and tasty with the dish. 1997 Glen Fiona, Syrah Bacchus Vnyd.: A little gamy on the nose with solid syrah fruit and some smoky earth scents/ Medium body, more structured than the pinot and darker fruit dominate, no sign of wood, well concentrated and balanced/ Long, dusty, finish. Became sweeter and more fruit driven with the food; a good match. Best, Jim

With guacamole, hummus and baked blue corn chips: 2000 R&V Dauvissat, Le Foret: This wine is completely about typicite and balance. And I really don’t think there is a higher compliment for a young wine. Served blind I might not get the year or the vineyard but I have confidence I’d say “Dauvissat, Chablis.” Full fruit, biscuity, deep yet etched on the palate with everything perfectly balanced. Better, at this point, than the 2000 Raveneau from this lieu dit. A joy to smell and a delight with the food. It will be near impossible to keep my hands off my remaining bottles. With cold, sliced, rare roast beef and a Caesar salad: 1999 Paloma, Syrah: A meaty, young syrah with good fruit concentration, some pepper and earth accents and nice persistence. The fact that no new wood is used on this wine gives it the chance to really taste like ripe syrah – kudos to Paloma for this decision. Excellent with the beef. With a lunch of crackers, cheeses, olives, cappa colla, mustards and pistachios: 2002 Clos Roche Blanche, Gamay; A friend has recently told me he thought this wine was weedy. I don’t, but I can see what he sees. I think of it as high-toned and crisp – ah well, one man’s meat is another’s poison. I get lots of cherry, face powder and mineral on both the nose and palate with good cut and lots of sustain. Your mileage may vary. Matches the cappa colla very well and is delicious with the rest of these lunch combinations. With a grilled sandwich of mozzarella, pesto, tomato and Portobello mushroom: 1997 Rene Leclerc, Griotte-Chambertin: A very odd wine that my wife loves (and this is our last bottle – isn’t that always the way?). The nose is wet earth, stems, mushroom and paraffin with just the slightest hint of red fruit; it really doesn’t smell like wine at all. OTOH, the palate is wide open, lots of soft red fruits, very approachable and seemingly ready but there are things that sort of stick out; first, some alcoholic heat; then, when that disappears, a little too much acid bite; and then, everything smoothes out but it gets a bit tannic. A medium length finish. At first, I thought it closed. Then maybe past prime and starting to come apart. Finally, I went back to closed but just as the best possibility – not out of any confidence. This has dropped much of the oak that was in evidence since release but what remains is not within my realm of experience. Good with the dish. Best, Jim

Rating an entire region and/or an entire vintage with a single number is blatant selling and has nothing to do with education. Best, Jim

I saw the Aurora Borealis tonight from our home in western NC (4,200 feet elevation). It lasted about half an hour, was red (the rarest color, I am told) and I assume is the result of the solar storms that are inbound from the sun. I never got to see it in Alaska when I visited. What a life! Recent wine and food pairings: With turkey meat balls and Swiss chard en brodo: 1999 Brudlmayer, Loiser Berg Gruner Veltliner: Closed for business; sort of ginger ale and mineral water meet acid. Hard, atonal on the palate and tight. There’s good stuff here but it’s pissy these days. Hold. With steak and potatoes: 1994 Vincent Arroyo, Petite Sirah Reserve: The oak has finally integrated into this concentrated gem of a wine. Lots of berry and plum flavors with some mineral and earth accents – but this is all about dark fruit in what has become a very graceful package. Terrific with the meal. Leftovers of the meatballs and chard in broth: 2000 Nigl, Riesling Goldburg: Wide open and has picked up substance and density. Amazing as this was all acid and angles on release. Excellent ripe fruit, lots of minerality, plenty of backing acidity and an extremely long finish. Very good with the meal. Grilled chicken, onions and mushrooms with a side of mashed butternut squash: 1998 Torii Mor, Pinot Noir White Rose Vnyd.: The most Chabolle-like OR pinot I’ve had. Real depth of fruit, very complex nose, utterly elegant and secondary development well underway. Still well structured so there is no rush here but the fruit was just amazingly concentrated and intense without being weighty. Think Musigny. Another nice turn around, as this was pretty sweet and simple in its youth. Excellent accompaniment to dinner. Best, Jim

They ship to me. I can take it from there . . . Best, Jim

Yep. Fortunately, there is a lot of good stuff in the market these days and 02 should produce some lovely wines. May it always be thus. Best, Jim

Lunch was sliced turkey, thin sliced sweet cappa colla, garlic potato salad, assorted cheeses, black olives and raw carrots. To accompany; 1999 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Prestige de VV: vibrant fresh cherry with some mineral and earth tones/ medium body, flavors follow the nose with intense cherry flavors and a very clean streak of stone-mineral evident, well resolved and a texture of satin, bright acids that are backing but never poking through, nicely structured and balanced, lovely concentration/ long, mineral-cherry finish. The first smell was more than enough to make me smile. The first sip was absolutely delicious. And then, it got better. Utterly sublime with the cappa colla and quite good with everything else save the carrots. Bags of life. $17, delivered - $200 buys a case! As my brother would say, “un-bay leaf-able!” Best, Jim

That's an easy one - think niagara falls Bingo!

David, I saw the 2002 Donnhoff Neiderhauser Ham. for $59 recently. The Hirtzberger is on sale at CWC for $50. But that's splitting hairs and you're right about preferences. Its just that the Donnhoff's relative increase is so much that it stops me in my tracks. The 2000 O.B. I drank cost $30, when I bought it. The 2000 N.H. was $37. The buzz from 01 is driving these 02 prices don't you think? Best, Jim

Diane decided on pasta with caramelized onions, black olives, EVOO and ricotta salada for dinner with thin sliced, olive bread crostini. With such simple, earthy fare, my thoughts turned to syrah. First choice: 1998 Abbaye de Tholomies, Minervois: This is actually 60-30-10, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre but my initial tasting of this wine late last year convinced me this was one Rhone blend that I would enjoy with a bit of age on it. Corked – ‘seems to be my week. Second choice: 1997 Neyers, Syrah: Big, forward black cherry fruit with too much wood. Some folks may think the wood is just a “component” of the nose and palate but when each taste ends in a sour dill note, it’s just too much for me. Lots of wood tannins, too. I got about four sips down and Diane looked at me with that look – (it’s not like we don’t have anymore wine so, if you don’t like it, go get something else!). Ah yes, our years together have been good. Best choice: 1999 Gilles-Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet: The last several times I have tasted this it has shown signs of shutting down. And sure enough, the first few sips reminded me of Cote-Rotie light; a sort of thin or weak version of C-R. But then all the fruit came storming in kicking ass and taking names and all was well in Jim-land. Lesson learned. Best, Jim

With sliced, cold roast beef with horseradish and some blue corn chips with hummus: 2001 Texier, Cote-Rotie VV: This had strikingly forward fruit on the nose and palate, good depth and ripeness, powdery tannins and reminded me more of Hermitage than C-R both in flavor and texture. Interesting wine that I will not touch another bottle of for several years. With oven poached cod with avacados; sautéed risotto cakes; and a small green salad: 2000 Raveneau, Montee de Tonnerre: Opened long before its time but the profile is so dissimilar from the Butteaux of the same vintage, it bears noting. Where the Butteaux was all rain water, integration and grace, this wine is stoney, angular and weighty. It was wonderful with the fish but it has no place on your table until 2006 or so. With poached apricot and pecan strudel with mascarpone topping: 2000 J.J. Cristoffel, Riesling Spatlese Erdener Treppchen: The remains of a bottle have been in the cellar (cork in) for almost a week. The wine had lost much of its honeyed tones and palate sweetness in favor of a mineral driven element that had a very slight smoky edge to it. Nice with the dessert. Corked wine: 2000 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allees: This makes me angry. They can cork my cabernet and merlot all they want but when they mess with my Muscadet I get pissed. Vive la screwcap! Best, Jim

Our friends, Claude and Anna Marie, always go all out when they cook for a group. Last night was no exception. They live in a stone house overlooking the Linville River; it always feels like home when we approach. That theme is repeated inside; for them and us. With Roquefort Tart with Walnut and Garlic Dressing: 2000 Donnhoff, Riesling Spatlese Oberhauser Brucke: it smells sweet at first and then broadens out to include stone and floral scents/ medium body, viscous and perhaps a bit less sweet than the nose suggests with good depth and nice complexity/ long, clean finish. From a time when this producer’s Spatlese could be afforded. Very enjoyable wine and excellent with the tart. Showed well. With salmon in phyllo with peperoncini and smoked salmon stuffing: 2001 Fevre, Chablis Champs Royaux: crystal clear aromas of rain water, citrus peel and mineral/ light bodied and almost weightless in the mouth, flavors echo the nose, nicely balanced/ medium finish. Charming wine for drinking now and quite good with the dish. Curried chicken pot pie: 2001 Hirtzberger, Riesling Singerriedel: one of the world’s truly great wines is beginning to close down. Hold. Very good with the dish. Braised beef brisket with caramelized onions: 1999 Jayer-Gilles, Cote de Nuit Villages: very floral nose; straight-forward flavors of red fruit; dry finish. Too simple to be interesting but maybe we opened it too early in its life. 2001 Falesco, Vitiano: a somewhat rustic styled quaffer with a dry finish. 2000 Linn Court, Syrah: pretty oaky nose diminishes over time, simple syrah fruit with moderate persistence. Easy to drink. 1995 Neyers, Cabernet Sauvignon: more complexity than the other reds and a bit more body but not up to previous showings. Best with the dish. Other wines that were opened throughout the evening: 2001 Chapel Hill, Chardonnay (unoaked): despite the name also referencing a town in NC, this is from Oz. Pleasant, clean chardonnay for sipping or very light fare; short finish. Frankly, I liked it. 2002 Falesco, Est! Est! Est!: again, pleasant sipping with a light mineral element. I liked the chard. Better. Desserts with coffee: Pumpkin bread pudding with caramel sauce – to die for! Walnut ricotta cake – light and not over sweet; delicious. Shoe-fly pie – I know this is molasses based but it gives the impression of liquid nuts; yummy. Best, Jim

THIS is a great observation. Perhaps we should have an award for the most over-rated list. Once you get a Wine Spectator Award I guess you are always in the club. By the way I have seen the list many times, but are the steaks actually any good? The steaks are good; the lobster is out of this world. The room, OTOH, is the sleaziest thing you'll ever see; looks like a brothel. Best, Jim