Florida Jim

As our guests arrived, I opened a 2000 Raveneau, Chablis Butteaux, which turned out to be corked. Heartbreaking, as this is one of the best white Burgundies I’ve had and stood the equal of a 2000 Sauzet, Chevalier-Montrachet, tasted within the last year. Instead, I poured the 2000 J.P. Droin, Chablis Vaillons, which showed quite well. Good depth of flavor, some nuance in the nose and ample cut, it accompanied nicely some crackers with smoked salmon spread. And later, when we all came to he table, it complimented some homemade tomato soup. Diane had prepared a salad Nicoise with grilled, rare tuna, green beans, oven roasted new potatoes and black olives with some warm, crusty bread on the side. We opened a brought bottle of the 1999 L’Insieme, a cooperative effort of several Piedmont producers which I understand is made up of 50% nebbiolo, 30% cab. and 20% other varieties. It is an oaky, rich, very ripe (14% alcohol) wine that smells like nebbiolo and sangiovese but tastes more like a super-Tuscan cab. blend. Not the best match with the food and little woody for my taste, but I can certainly understand how folks would enjoy this and I have no doubt it will age. Also opened was the 2000 Copain, Pinot Noir Hein Vnyd. (Anderson Valley). It began a bit stemmy and candied and never got much past that profile, which is not what I remember from tasting the wine at release. Gradually it added some complexity and the fruit filled in but my guess is that these bottles are better left until next year. Best, Jim

Especially the dry rose idea. Best, Jim

Dana, One of my favorite dishes. I like Chablis or a lighter style pinot with Nicoise, myself, but the suggestions already made might make me rethink those choices. Best, Jim

These were all either someone else's bring or purchased in a restaurant. Although, I understand the price of the Cheval is around $750. Best, Jim

To start the evening, a comparison: 2002 Pieropan, Soave: A beautiful aperitif wine, with a clean somewhat floral nose and a crisp, lightly complex palate. I will buy a case of this almost immediately. 2000 Pieropan, Soave “La Rocca”: More on the order of a Gruner Veltliner in both aromatics and flavors. Real character here but unsuitable as aperitif. Rather, this deserves sauced food; say, gnocchi with sage butter or some such. Ready now. Then off to dinner where another friend who brought a surprise bottle met us: 1996 A.P. Villaine, Cote de Chalonaise, Les Clos Bourgogne: Light but character driven wine that speaks of the soil and the rocks. Charming, albeit simple. Still better than 90% of Bourgogne available today. 2000 R. & V. Dauvissat, Chablis: Just plain wow. A terrific village Chablis with plenty of flavor and cut. No wood showing and lovely balance. Surprise: 2000 Chat. Cheval Blanc: Open 20 Hours/ This is barrel sample stuff with remarkable purity of fruit, almost no complexity, and substantial tannins. If anyone asks, in say twenty or so years, what this tasted like as a child, I will know. But for this moment, such a waste. Best, Jim

With cauliflower soup with sautéed shitakes and truffle oil: 2002 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: This wine works well as aperitif and as accompaniment to the soup. The garganega is evident on both the nose and palate but it is more complex and interesting than a single varietal. A bottle I will have often. About $15, full retail. With roasted whole chicken, couscous and grilled asparagus: 2000 Sineann Pinot Noir Reed and Reynolds Vnyd.: 13.2 % alcohol (and my congratulations to whomever is responsible for keeping the alcohol within reason); very thick and rich with bright licorice (both red and black) on both the nose and palate, some berry jam scents and flavors, and big oak (not overwhelming but more than I like). Good with the food but not enough cut or high tones to compliment. Brought; price unknown. 1999 Dom. Savoye, Morgon “Cuvee Speciale Fut de Chene”: A ton of cut, a very young-pinot-like profile on the nose and palate, and pretty tight, all things considered. What is revealed is food-friendly and clean; what is lurking is complexity, fruit concentration and acids yet to form its own message. A developing wine with fine credentials for tonight’s supper and better prospects for the future. Well made. Very highly recommended for those with patience (best guess, 3-10 years). About $15, delivered. Best, Jim

Yes, it is. Thanks for the tips. Best, Jim

Some recent tastes and one hell of a lunch: 1999 Arigolas, Turriga IGT: A blend of 85% cannonau; while bovale, carignano and malvasia nera make up the other 15%; aged 18-24 months in barrique/ Dense and concentrated (and obviously young) to the point that, in time, it just may soak up the considerable oak it has seen, but after it is open for just a little while, it loses its vigor and sort of flattens out. I had heard that this wine captures the wild nature of the area of its origin (Sardinia) but it seems more polished than untamed and just a bit soupy. I seem to remember having an older version of this and being impressed but I can’t find my notes. About $40, retail and imported by Winebow. 2001 Mason, Sauvignon Blanc: While I approve of someone in Napa attempting to make sauvignon with some cut, I don’t approve of them doing it by harvesting unripe grapes. Oh, the acids are crisp but its all grass and pretty hollow. About $13, retail. 2002 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: About my third or fourth bottle of this and it’s finally time to just go buy a case and be done with it. Not even Pieropan makes a Soave I enjoy more and Gini isn’t in the same league. Beautifully textured, fleshy, fully flavored (some complexity), structured and perfectly balanced wine . . . for a song. No evidence of wood. About $13, retail and imported by Winebow. (BTW, I have recently tasted Anselmi’s 2002 San Vincenzo and 2001 Capitel Croce. The Croce (about $16) is aged in wood and carries a very evident stamp of oak, which I did not like – others may enjoy that as it did not overwhelm the wine. The San Vincenzo (no wood, about eight dollars) is fleshy and texturally lovely but does not have the structure or complexity of the Foscarino. Of course, it probably has some chardonnay in it and the Foscarino and Croce don’t seem to. In any event, I liked the San Vincenzo quite a bit and it certainly is reasonably priced.) 2002 Brun, Terres Dorees, Beaujolais L’Ancien VV: About my tenth bottle of this since release and, even though I know I should wait a year or two (or more), I can’t. With a beer roasted whole chicken and mushroom risotto, sublime. I’m going to wind-up breaking my arm patting myself on the back for buying a lot of this. A very well structured and focused gamay with a termendous upside. About $11, delivered; imported by Louis Dressner. 2002 Arancio, Grillo: My fourth bottle of this and it’s just as idiosyncratic and interesting as the preceding bottles. Reminds me some of greco but has a prominent earthy/loamy element. As mentioned previous, not a wine for everyone. Excellent with insalata caprese, assorted olives and focaccia bread drizzled with pesto. About $8, retail and imported by Prestige Wine Imports. And, one truly extraordinary lunch: First course: An onion, black olive and zucchini frittata Second course: Green lentils with beet greens and feta. Served with crusty whole wheat bread. 1996 Nino Negri, Valtellina Superiore, Sassella “La Tense”: 100% nebbiolo/ Black-red with brown edges/ A savory, feminine and absolutely captivating nose of iced tea, tar, bug spray, leather, black and red fruit, with hints of tobacco leaf; all very slightly lifted; fascinating and very complex and too good to put down/ Medium body but excellent concentration and fabulous texture, flavors are all the elements of the nose but more emphasis on the fruit with additions of earth, mineral, and just a fleeting whisper of dried berries, fleshy, utterly seamless and smooth, intense and precisely balanced/ Long finish with smooth, complex fruit and good grip. Oh my! The presence in the mouth is so wonderful . . . think perfectly mature Barolo. The wine, by itself, was so clearly a “great” wine, I was struck silent. With the food, it was indescribably delicious; the very essence of why we carry on so about this fermented grape juice. “Please sir, if I would be allowed to buy several cases of this, I would be so grateful” – unfortunately, there were only two bottles left on the shelf when I got there. About $15, and imported by Prestige Wine Importers. Best, Jim

Although I have not heard of that producer, Taurasi and Taburno are DOC's that use this grape to make some pretty hearty wines, often with aromas of cigar box and leather accenting black fruit. I've had a few and they seem to need some time. Should you ever see it, try the Mastroberardino "Radici;" it sort of put aglianico on the map. Best, Jim

Thanks. BTW, did you happen to notice that Robert Parker recently posted a note on this wine over on the eBobby/Squires board? He was also complimentary. Although personally, it's sort of a mixed blessing to be validated by Parker. Best, Jim

For what it's worth, a 2001 Egon Muller, Scharzhofberger Kab. showed very well indeed about a week ago. I have not had the Thanisch. Best, Jim

I've not had either pinot gris'. You did not say who the producer of the Montée du Tonnerre was but that vineyard can make some pretty angular wine when it's young; I'd let that one sleep unless you've had it before and are satisfied that it's showing well. The riesling should be lovely as should the sauvignon (which showed lots of grapefruit the last time I tried it). Best, Jim

Chris, Thanks for the input. BTW, I just visited your website (first time) and will be back. 'Lots of great stuff. Thanks, Jim

Ward, I think a good number of folks are holding their breath. Some of the 03 Nouveau are out and some are yummy. Some are not. 2003 is a wild card; extreme temps.; huge temp. fluctuations; unknown harvest schedules; it's all a mystery until the wine hits the market. And I wouldn't even hazard a guess. Best, Jim

With whole wheat penne, caramelized onions, black olives, garlic, marjoram and parmesan: 2002 Morgante, Nero d’Avola: Young but interesting, even now, with a fairly polished nose of black fruits and spice but a more rustic palate with deep chocolaty, black fruit, powdery tannins and good concentration. Finishes long but not as dry as the structure might indicate. This could probably use a couple years in the cellar but won’t get the chance at my house. Diane calls it the ultimate “pizza wine” and I’ll not argue. Don’t even bother with stemware; pour it into tumblers, grab a bowl of pasta or a couple pieces of pizza and dream about Italia. Squisito! About $9 retail; Winebow imports. With black bean chili with avocado: 2001 Castano, Monastrell (Yecla): Carbonic masceration of Mourvedre; what won’t they think of next? Really smells like a black fruit Beaujolais; maybe an old vine Brouilly or Moulin-a-Vent; rich and forward with minimal tannins and good bright, plumy fruit, the structure is all but hidden, excellent concentration; medium length. If you have it or buy it, don’t cellar it; it is ready now and more wine (macho!) than you might think. About $8, retail; Eric Solomon imports. Best, Jim

With grilled chicken, Caesar salad and bruschetta: 2002 Dom.Chantemerle (Boudin), Chablis Fourchaume: Crisp and tight but not entirely closed; has a racy sort of cracked pepper flavor along with the chardonnay and flint elements; excellent length. An intense and well-made wine that needs several years to open and develop. No wood in use at this house. About $26, delivered. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, NY. 2001 Coppo, Costebianche: Chardonnay from the Piedemont that is concentrated, structured and over-oaked. California has come to Italy and it’s not a good thing; smoked chardonnay is not appetizing. With cheese: 2000 Chat. Pesquie, Cotes de Ventoux “Les Terrasses”: A CdP look-alike with more tannin and, at present, less fruit while being somewhat disjointed. Not a bad wine but not interesting or exciting. About $9, retail. Imported by Eric Solomon. Best, Jim

2000 Giacomo Vico, Roero Superiore: 100% Nebbiolo/ Slightly dusty nose with richer fruit than a recent Nebbiolo D’Alba from Giacosa/ Full body, fleshy on the palate, ripe and well structured, more extraction than the Giacosa but less finesse and complexity (at least for now), concentrated and intense, good balance/ Long finish. Shows evidence of a pre-fermentation maceration in its extraction and evidence of the vintage in its ripeness. Clearly Nebbiolo but not in the lighter style that I was led to believe from the literature I’ve read about this DOC. Richer, more fruit-sweet and structured than anticipated, obviously in need of time in the cellar but not too closed to enjoy now. A small revelation for me; this wine is well-made and worthy of cellaring yet delicious enough to drink now with hearty fare. No overt wood and loads of flavor. About $10, retail. Imported by Cantina Italiana, Hollywood, FL. 2002 Feudo Arancio, Grillo: This grape, more often used as the base for the oro and ambra versions of Marsala, is vinted dry in this case. It is aromatic, pleasantly fresh, tangy and full flavored with good backing acidity and length. A wine to use with lighter fare but also fine with shrimp and other seafood. Ready now but should last a couple years. About $8, retail. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports, NY, NY. 2002 Feudo Arancio, Nero d’Avola: Varietally correct, less rustic and more polished than many Nero with no noticeable wood and some persistence. Good with or without food and ready now. About $8. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports. 2002 Pazo de Senorans, Albarino Rias Baixas: 12% alcohol/ Smells of white grapes with light white pepper tones and hints of wild flowers/ Light bodied with flavors that follow the nose, a faint hint of cream soda on the palate, bright acidity, excellent integration and the (somewhat fanciful) impression that clear rushing stream water plays a part in its flavor profile/ Medium length finish that gently reprises the flavors on the palate. Some wines leave footprints on perception; nothing readily identifiable but something memorable; this is one of them. Subtle, suave juice with just enough acid to make things clean and clearly etched. Charming wine. Lovely by itself but paired with butternut squash ravioli, beyond words. About $17, retail. An Eric Solomon European Cellars Selection, NY, NY. 2000 Denis Jamain, Dom de Reuilly, Reuilly “Les Pierres Plates”: Fresh and bright is this Sauvignon with flowers, warm clay and lime on the nose/ Light bodied but more viscous than the body suggests, bright, crisp flavors follow the nose with intensity, some mineral-stone elements and a splash of grapefruit emerge with air, lovely balance/ Long finish. I am told there are two styles of Reuilly; one blousy and alcoholic, and, one fresh and vibrant; this is in the latter camp. Not the penetrating (sometimes, piercing) power of Sancerre, rather a lighter more elegant version with no grassiness and no cat pee (and of course, no wood). Still plenty of cut and very clean. Ready now; will last short term. Meant to be aperitif or accompaniment with lighter fare. With penne prima vera with feta, outstanding. About $13, retail. Imported by Kermit Lynch. 2002 D. O. Calatayud, Vina Alarba: Nose of smoke, raspberry and dark cherry/ Medium body, very smooth, flavors follow the nose, totally integrated, little structure, good balance/ Short finish. One dimensional but delicious. About $6, retail. Imported by The Stacole Co. 2002 Borsao, Campo de Borja: Very similar to the preceding wine with a touch of dark fruit in the nose and more alcoholic weight. Seemed a bit hollow at mid-palate. About $6.50. Imported by Stacole. (Both of these Grenache based wines were good, well-made, had no flaws, displayed good balance and were true to the variety. They could have been from anywhere. Finally, I must admit to myself that I have no taste for Grenache, save a very few expensive ones. But that is a matter of personal taste and should not be read to reflect badly on these two wines.) 2002 Botromagno, Gravina: 60% Greco, 40% Malvasia; 12% alcohol/ Light nose of dried flowers, fresh cracked pepper and resin (somewhat reminiscent of dry Riesling on the nose)/ Light bodied, flavors follow the nose with some minerality, crisp backing acidity and a bit more flesh than the body suggests, clean and mouth-watering, good balance/ Medium length finish with some pepper notes and just a touch of honey. Has the same kind of cut to it as young Chablis and therefore, seems ideal for seafood (especially oysters). We had it with insalata caprese and crusty olive bread and it was perfect. But this is wine that will not be for everyone; different is certainly an apt descriptor. Has the structure to keep. About $8, retail. Imported by Winebow, Inc.; a Leonardo Locascio Selection. 2001 Abbazia Saint Anastasia, Nero d’Avola: This is a blend of Nero and something (Cabernet, Merlot and/or Syrah) and bears the IGT label. It smelled and tasted like the blending grape was Cabernet, it had too much new oak for me and lacked any real character. However, the oak was not overwhelming, the wine was fairly well balanced and others may find this more attractive than I, much in the style of a California meritage or new wave Super Tuscan. About $12, retail. Imported by Empson, Inc., Alexandria, VA. Best, Jim

Same count, reverse knowledge. Thanks for the bio, Jim

No one, amigo? You don't read my notes, do you? Best, Jim

Brad, a team player? Lordy, lordy, what next? Free wine at Brad's place . . . Best, Jim

Ward, I believe from reading your explanation that I understand where you are headed with this system and, assuming you get sufficient input, you may be able to assit folks who avail themself of it. For myself, I will opt out for reasons which I think you have already heard/read. Good luck. Best, Jim

Ward, So, if I read this correctly, your system requires numerical scores for each wine tasted. Right? Best, Jim

Ward, Having had that very feeling from time to time, I do understand. And as you say. some information, no matter how hard to interpret, would make a good starting point. But (and I herewith apologize to those of you who have heard this once too often), this hobby isn't supposed to be easy. You don't become an experienced wine taster in three semesters and frankly, short cuts don't make for expanded experience. So my position is that, when faced with twenty pinots at different price points one should consider several things: First, the next time a store holds a tasting of pinots, I should be there, Second, which does my retailer recommend and why (and which does he not recommend and why), Third, maybe I'll just get two of the more inexpensive ones to compare. Obviously, if you have already been to a pinot tasting, you would have a clue. If the retailer has learned something about your preferences and isn't constantly trying to sell-you-up, that opinion may be of value, at least for comparison purposes. And then of course, nothing beats trying them yourself. If a person interested in wine wants easy, they should just try a few wines until they get a couple they like and then stick with them. 'Nothing wrong with that. But if you want to really learn about wine, then get ready for a lifetime project. Experience is going to take a long, long time. You are going to taste your share of crap along the way (and then you will forever know what crap is) and you will get innumerable chances to try something new (I have never been in any store where I have tried every wine in their inventory). Every once and awhile, you are going to taste something remarkable (and then you'll know what remarkable is). Just take your time and don't worry about the next big thing, or whether someone knows more, or why you wouldn't know a good pinot if it walked up and introduced itself. You will learn, both the good ones and the bad ones; and the single most important thing you'll learn is that the very best pinot in the whole world, is the one you like the most. Best, Jim

Ward, As mentioned, no system is useless. Measuring the degree of usefulness of your, or any, system will certainly be a long term project. But it occurs to me that your model is designed for commercial purposes (my guess is, that you would not be offerring this service for free) hence, it should be as viable as the market would allow. Surely you will research your target market. As for my personal thoughts, well, let me just say that I am likely not your best candidate for constructive opinion. Call me Luddite, but I will not be availing myself of any system (yours included) to help me decide my preferences. I'll use my senses. Best, Jim

We all do. Best, Jim