Florida Jim

Aperitif: 2000 Huet, Vouvray Sec Clos de Bourg(375): Fairly closed but strongly scented and flavored with lemon, hay, tea and mineral tones; nicely viscous and bone dry with good persistence. Too early to get all that this will offer, but it already shows some complexity and excellent intensity. 1994 J. Drouhin, Chassagne-Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche: Upon first opening, this showed gentle oak and little nose but within half an hour, came to full song. Lovely, nutty, deep chardonnay nose, round in the mouth but plenty of backing acidity, excellent depth and complexity, medium length. At peak and a true delight. 1996 Hirtzberger, Riesling Singerriedel: Secondary development well under way, this was almost painfully intense. Very powerful on the nose and palate with smoky lemon and mineral notes, earthy, peppery and spicy; very, very long. This needed strongly flavored food and, although it is a good and interesting wine, it was way too much by itself. Will last a long time. With seared scallops with a lime, ginger sauce: 1999 Raveneau, Chablis Butteaux: The most perfectly ready premier cru Chablis I’ve tasted and truly memorable. Very expansive aromas of lemon water, flowers, minerals and light spice, a beautifully perfumed nose; fresh and lively on the palate with depth, complexity and elegance, nearly weightless but still concentrated and, above all, perfectly balanced. Fabulous with the food, fabulous by itself; what a treat! With baked chicken breasts stuffed with porcinis and herbs, and, a potato gateau with pancetta and smoked provola: 2000 Hudelot-Noellat, Bourgogne: Crisp and elegant with crystal clean pinot flavors, light spice and good balance. Can cellar short term. My favorite of the pinots. 1999 Sanford, Pinot Noir La Rinconda Vnyd.: Very rich, gently oaked, excellent concentration but a touch to plush and simple for me. A cocktail wine, IMO, but a tasty one 1992 Claera Mills, Pinot Noir Mt. Harlan: The Count Basie of pinots; more was said by the timing than the melody; wonderfully complex with green olive and earth evident on the nose and palate, fine secondary development and good balance. A wine that is “at peak” in every respect and a evidence that Calera can age very well indeed. Intermezzo: 1995 Turriga, IGT: Powerful, oaky wine with better complexity than I expected good concentration and length. Needs a decade. With pumpkin tart: 1990 Chat. Suduiraut, Sauternes (375): As bad as was last bottle was, this was every bit the opposite. Lots of complexity, lots of cut, a distinct smoky-stone element and as good a Sauternes as I have tasted. Wonderful right now. With assorted cheeses: 1994 Graham’s, Porto (3750: In no danger of fading but delicious now. Very seamless, no rough tannins, integrated and round in the mouth; a wine that is greater than the sum of its parts. No port lover I but I could drink this regularly. After hours: 1998 Ogier, Cote-Rotie: This bottle was a bit more closed than several I have had previous; still clearly of its place, excellent concentration and balance and texturally impressive. Terrific wine. Best, Jim

With assorted spreads and cheeses with crackers: 2002 Anton Bauer, Gruner Veltliner Ried Gmork: My first Gruner from the Donauland; 12.5% alcohol; crisp and clean with apple and citrus smells and flavors, lightweight, balanced with a moderate finish. Not particularly intense or concentrated nor typical of better GruVee; nonetheless, a pleasant aperitif style. 1997 Duclaux, Cote Rotie: Less open and more tannic than my last bottle and actually more reminiscent of good St. Joseph; still, the nose is Cote Rotie; decent balance and intensity. A wine to pair with lighter food and it served well in that capacity. With salad Nicoise with fresh, grilled tuna: 1999 R. Chevillon, Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Chaignots: More developed on the nose than palate as this actually closed down some the longer it stayed in the glass; initially, a nose at full song with complexity, mushroom-earthy accents and a clear mineral streak; more straight-forward on the palate with sweet fruit and light earthy hints; balanced, concentrated and well integrated with good persistence. A wine for the future, and a very good future, I’d wager. 1998 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Estate Reserve: Clearly of its place and well concentrated but this was two wines; at one sip it was fruit driven and moderately complex, and, the next it displayed too much of that sweet and sour oak I find prevalent in CA cabernets (eg. Colgin). This was my first bottle of this wine and I have no idea what the future holds. But it is not for drinking now unless you enjoy the impression of heavy handed, new wood. (Others liked this better than I.) Best, Jim

2002 Boudin, Fourchaume: Not a blousy Fourchaume; a solid mineral and acid backbone and lots of textured but bright chardonnay fruit and smoky minerals. Certainly needs time, but too good now. 2002 Chanrion, Cote-de-Brouilly: Lighter than a fine Brouilly but of the same cloth with some clean earth supporting good black fruit aromas and flavors. A very nice wine; ‘wish I had more. 1999 Hirsch, Gruner Veltliner Lamm Vineyard: Ripe, true to varietal and well-scented with a fine texture and good sustain; nonetheless, this stops just short of being special. As they say, “not something to throw out of bed for eating crackers, but . . .” 1996 Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny: “Those who know, choose Chambolle,” or something like that; crystalline on the nose with very distinct scents of black cherry, mineral, underbrush and light spice; deftly textured with some focused flavors that follow the spectrum of the nose if not the precision of it, intense, elegant and persistent. This is why we put a little age on Burgundy and this is why I buy it in the first place. “Burgundy, accept no substitute.” 1996 Chateau Beaumont, Haut-Medoc: When first opened, a complex, balanced, fully flavored wine of character. The longer it remained open, the more it tended toward green bell-pepper. My only bottle and I’m not at all sorry to see it go. 2002 Monmousseau, Rose d’Anjou: 50% grolleau, 50% cabernet franc; Diane called it cherry Kool-aid – not I. Light scents of cherries but a palate laser-etched with clean, crisp cherry fruit (not even a hint of strawberry or raspberry), solid acids, intense and balanced. One hell of a wine, IMO, and worth doing over again, especially at less than $10 a bottle. 1996 Baumard, Savennieres: A recent bottle (well decanted) showed fuller, but this one was closed and acidic for two hours, then it opened very slightly. Not ready for tasting let alone accompanying dinner. Hold. Best, Jim

I appreciate the follow-up. Best, Jim

Mmmmmm. Along those same lines, one of the best dolces I ever had was at Travigne in St. Helena; raspberries in black pepper sauce. Best, Jim

Rob, There's a whole lot of folks that disagree with us. And though I have never balked at being in the minority, I certainly understand folks who feel otherwise. My "too, too, too comments" are, of course, my own take but Brad has boiled it down perfectly - if it doesn't go with the food in front of me, I don't want it. And that statement is made regardless of label or prestige or price tag. And if you saw me, you'd know that the dinner table is a friend of mine. Best, Jim

Brad, Save for a bottle or two, I have consigned all my CA cab. to a local restaurant. And I am long over buying the stuff. Somebody else called it a one-note wine and I agree, but its worse than that. Its too tannic for me, made with too big an alcohol, too much wood, costs too much and has too little to distinguish it from its bretheren. And it goes with virtually nothing that I eat. I think CA can make good wine and, on very rare occasions, great wine. But not from this grape. Fortunately for the industry, I am in the minority. Best, Jim

Diane and I flew into SFO last Wednesday, snagged the last convertible at the Hertz desk, negotiated five o’clock traffic to get to our hotel (and a complimentary upgrade to a suite) in the city and found a really lovely restaurant on Post called Fino. Not a bad start. The next day we were off to a four-story fabric store (Diane’s latest work requires it), the Museum of Modern Art and adjacent gardens, Union Square and then, lunch at the Slanted Door. This remains my favorite restaurant with its exquisitely “clean” food and fabulous wine list (especially the by-the-glass list). ‘Got to meet the owner and tell lies and we enjoyed the new location (although the room is noisy). The Ferry Building is beautifully re-done and the shops inside are worth a look. Then off to Santa Rosa to chez Bevan for the weekend’s festivization. Russell and Victoria have a Frank Lloyd Wright-esque house with the most spectacular view since the porch at Paloma. The guest list included more than a smattering of familiar faces from throughout the U.S. and the wines available were many and grand. Without specific notes I’d say the mag. of 79 Brabaresco (Cerretto, Asili, I believe), was strikingly authentic and at full song; the 99 Rostaing, Cote Rotie, (Cote Blonde, I think) was the best developing wine of the evening and the 98 Clos St. Hune the most intellectually stimulating. But so many other fine wines; so many . . . (including a mag. of 95 Dauvissat, Clos, the remains of which I used to bring my palate back to life during the next day’s big tasting) The following day we prepared for the scheduled 94 Cal. cab. tasting featuring about 34 different wines (massive overkill certainly, but some lessons were learned; especially that this vintage is, in the majority, not ready yet). Also, a single head-to-head tasting of the 94 Leonetti cab. vs. the 94 Pahlmeyer cab. resulted in a somewhat unanticipated show of hands for the Washington wine. That night we were off to Mirepoix (in Windsor) for a multi-course dinner that had me stuffed before the finales came out. Nonetheless, a wonderful meal with inspired preparations and also a few good wines in attendance. Among them a 92 Bonneau, Celestines, a couple of Marcassin chards. and a bottle of the 90, St. Anne, Syrah CdR which, in this taster’s opinion, stole the show. Unfortunately, most of the gang had to leave town that evening or early the next day, but we stuck around and had a chance to visit Bevan Cellars and taste some fermenting lots of what will be the blending lots of the first wine (cabernet) from that producer. Then back to Russell’s place for some pear and gorgonzola risotto prepared by the Curmudgeon and my first introduction to the wines of Silver Pine courtesy of winemaker Greg L. who joined us (the SP vineyards are visible from Russell’s place). A full flavored, somewhat tropical sauvignon blanc and an 03 Rose that was both atypical and fantastic. Crushed raspberries on the nose and palate so penetrating that it seemed I was introduced to the essence of that fruit. Only 25 cases of it produced but, oh my, what an unusual and captivating wine. The following day Diane and I headed north through the Anderson Valley with stops at the Navarro, Greenwood Ridge and Husch tasting rooms, lunch in Booneville and a top- down drive up the Avenue of the Redwoods. Then to Mendocino for a little shopping and people watching and, later, to the Albion River Inn for dinner. Accompanying our meal was a 98 Cotat, Chavignol Rose, which was absolutely pure and lovely. Awaking the next morning at the Little River Inn gave us a chance to sit on the veranda overlooking the Pacific at dawn. Tranquility. Next it was down the coast on the 1 with a stop in Point Reyes for lunch and the chance to witness a deer that looked both ways before it crossed the road. A behavior I wish were more prevalent. Then into SF and to Greens for a light supper before heading to an airport motel for the evening so that we could get out early the next morning and catch our flight. A whirlwind tour and much too short. And we are now sadly in need of salads and some sleep. But a couple of comments I’d like to share: -Yellowjackets can kick hummingbird butt. I watched one chase hummers away from a hummingbird feeder, repeatedly. Considering their relative sizes, most impressive. -Navarro is doing even better work that the last time I visited and may just be the first domestic wine mailer list I want to be on. -For me, it is big medicine to be in a winery and feel a part of the process of evaluating juice and its eventual treatment. I never thought I wanted to make the stuff; now, I’m not so sure. -Rose wines are starting to amaze and delight me. How about that? -California cabernet is just not a wine I can stomach anymore. I had a chance to taste through a lot of good ones and none were anything I wanted to taste again, ever. -The 2002 French white Burgs. (Chablis or otherwise) I’ve tasted seem to have a good future but they are intensely acidic right now. Cellar time is a must. -Some of the nicest people I know live in northern CA; my sincerest good wishes and thanks to them – my life is so much richer for their friendship. Best, Jim

With some beautiful wild salmon and mushroom risotto: 1998 V. Girardin, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers: Started very closed and tannic; opened some to reveal somewhat muted Gevrey aromatics; solid fruit and earth flavors and the tannins toned down a little; drying, tannic finish. Given that it was opened too early, I still think this one may never come into balance. 1999 V. Girardin, Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses: Much better with deep black fruit and spice aromas; very concentrated and intense flavors that reflect the vineyard, still too young for much complexity, well balanced; long juicy finish. Fine juice in need of a decade in the cellar. Aside: I have tasted a number of Girardin reds in the past that I thought too woody; neither of these was overtly so. There were some oak accents in both but it was fairly understated. Curiously, most of Girardin’s whites I’ve tasted have had more this gentle kind of oak treatment and been pretty nice wines. ‘Hard to figure this guy . . . Best, Jim

Neither. My concern is that it is a petroleum based product and I am heating it. Since petroleum, in raw form, is toxic, I am concerned about the effects of heating a derritive product in the company of something I will eat. I am no chemist nor am I especially confident of any analysis of the process which might be, in any way, influenced by the industry. But its good to see your still here and writing and everything . . . Best, Jim

Rob, Your oil poach technique sounds fascinating. Do you suppose you could get a similar result by doing the whole thing in aluminum foil and then putting it in the oven? I ask because I have reservations about cooking in plastic. Best, Jim

With bruschetta with a topping of diced heirloom tomatoes, EVOO and garlic: 2002 Giacosa, Arneis: Fresh, medium weight with integrated flavors of white fruit and a very light resinous character, nice cut, medium finish. Delicious as aperitif and perfect with the dish. At peak. With shrimp with mustard remoulade: 2000 J. P. Droin, Chablis Vaudesir: Expansive nose of white grapes, flowers, almond skin, mineral, spice and white fruit, amazing complexity and very alluring; medium body and quite elegant on the palate despite excellent concentration and almost painful intensity, flavors follow the nose with the fruit and mineral notes emphasized, perfect balance; long, complex finish with a touch of grilled nuts as accent. Superb with the dish (more than able to cut the remoulade) and also excellent with the following course. Will last. Vaudesir is my favorite Chablis. It faces south, as does Clos but it has steeper slopes and better drainage. To me it is always elegant and somewhat floral with a distinct spice note and, often, a nutty scent and flavor. Where Clos is rich and full flavored, Vaudesir has more cut and is more focused. Both cru are capable of long aging and are certainly wonderful examples of Chablis, but it is the grace and intensity of Vaudesir that always captures me. Wonderful wines . . . With sautéed yellow-tail snapper on a bed of lobster mushrooms and fresh anchovies with a side of sambal (an Indonesian pineapple and sweet chili relish): 1996 Dom. du Mas Blanc, Collioure Les Junquets: Developed aromas of cherries, earth, spice and a slight tar edge, some bottle bouquet; medium weight and light on the palate with flavors that follow the nose with good complexity and concentration, round in the mouth and nicely balanced; medium finish. Exceptional with the dish. This wine is at or very near peak. Best, Jim

Worse is that they don't sell this crap off in bulk or at least declassify. They don't get one more dollar of mine; disgusting behavior. Best, Jim

Some week: Two floods via successive hurricanes, several days without power, water, outside information, access in and out of town, and, hours of back breaking work to shovel off mud slides, clean out basements, sand bag buildings, clear roads, saw up and remove downed trees, all in the midst of a driving wind and rain storm while once placid creeks became raging torrents inches from homes and businesses (and too often, went through those homes and businesses). After it all, we are mentally, emotionally and physically weary. And there is still so much to do. But in this house, we know how to make lemonade, hence: Some lunch: With duck confit sautéed with spatzli, goat cheese and chives: 2002 Clos Pepe, Pinot Noir Estate: At 13.9% alcohol from the Santa Rita Hills, I didn’t think there was a chance I’d like it. I was wrong. Now, it does not taste like pinot and it could be from anywhere but the alcohol does not stick out, the flavors are ripe without being over-ripe, it has its own sense of balance and, dare I say, restraint, and it went really well with the dish. I don’t think it’s for keeping or for purists but it hit the spot for me. (BTW, a truly great dish; thanks Mark.) Some dinner: With mixed sweet-pepper topped bruschetta and seafood jambalaya: 2000 Mirimar Torres, Pinot Noir Don Miguel Vnyd. (mag.): At 14% alcohol from the Russian River Valley, I didn’t think . . . and I didn’t. The alcohol stuck out, the flavors were muddy and it was generally disjointed. It wasn’t without some redeeming qualities (others liked it) but none that would prompt me to pay for this again. With crème brulee: 1989 Rieussec, Sauternes (375): Syrup and brown sugar and simple; better on the nose than palate (which was cloying) but not by much; I’d rather had coffee. With assorted cheeses: 1998 Bussola, Amarone TB: As far from traditional Amarone as one can get but it was juicy, pungent, ripe and lip-smacking delicious. Nothing serious but lots of fun. Another meal: With wild mushroom risotto: 1999 Bizot, Vosne-Romanee Les Reas: Earthy and vinous on the nose with fresh black fruit, spice and something akin to lavender; medium weight and that same freshness I got on the nose, lots of earthy-black fruit complexity and a bit of red fruit, spice and olive, good balance and intensity, almost hidden structure; medium finish. I have had some very nice Burgundies in the last year but I can’t think of one I’ve enjoyed any more than this. Both juicy and complex; this producer’s recent work is quite accomplished. A brief visit from an old friend: With assorted cheeses: 1998 Dom Drouhin, Pinot Noir: Solid and complete Oregon pinot with a good sense of place and lovely balance, yet, I have the vague feeling that this won’t last a lot longer – but I can’t really articulate why I feel that way. In any event, a nice wine on this evening. Another meal: With homemade pizzas: 1996 Ponsot, Chambertin: Pale, thin, hollow, acidic, disjointed and lacking any concentration; further evidence that, in this vintage, Ponsot could not find it’s ass with both hands. 2001 Texier, Cote-Rotie VV: Smoked bacon, black fruit and olive nose, just a little too slick; somewhat glossy but showing young, well concentrated, good depth and more of it’s place than bottles tasted earlier; excellent length. The best showing for this wine so far and, little by little, it becomes convincing. Best, Jim

With sushi: 2000 Nigl, Riesling Goldberg: This wine’s acids have calmed markedly since release; to the point where it is actually pretty balanced with both fruit sweetness and dryness in harmony; good solid riesling flavors, moderate complexity and intensity; medium finish. Certainly of its place but lacking something in pizzazz (or some such). Good wine but nothing I’d buy again. With sausages and white beans: 2002 Coudert Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie: Closing down but still a fine Fleurie with more than enough stuffing to last for years; a bit disjointed and acidic today – not so much as to be unenjoyable but not a showing it will write home about. I think a nice mid-term rest will serve it well. Night, night . . . With burgers: 1998 Rochioli, Pinot Noir West Block: Upon opening, lovely, penetrating red raspberry and black raspberry aromatics with some light spice and stone accents, gentle oak hints; medium weight and very pure on the palate with flavors that echo the nose but become more black fruit dominant, the overall impression is of balance but also that this is somewhat closed and rustic (and slightly disjointed), concentrated and intense; medium finish with some drying tannins that reflect the palate’s slightly rustic character. After time in the glass, it devolves into “generic CA pinot-land” and becomes candied and unremarkable save for its concentration and an ever increasing oak signature. Hold for a decade or drink with in the first five minutes of opening. Thanks Larry. With Caesar salad: 2003 Abbazia di Novacella, Kerner: An interesting, riesling-esque wine that is somewhat more rustic in texture and has a slight resinous quality; the Alto Adige really has some interesting stuff going on. With pasta with salmon in cream sauce: 2000 Morrisfarms, Avvoltore: A blend of 75% sangiovese, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 5% syrah; another wine without character from Tuscany; it is pleasant, not over-oaked, not unbalanced, not over-the-top, not objectionable and completely boring. It may be a great wine in a couple years or it may be exactly what it is now; I just don’t care anymore. Please, somebody, tell me what is being produced in Tuscany that is even worth tasting . . . ? With assorted cheeses: 1999 J. Drouhin, Clos de Vougeot: Initially closed on the nose but opens to that wonderful sauvage and blood smell and flavor that is this appellation’s signature; restrained and yet it has a latent power (think Hendrix doing slow blues), balanced, concentrated and still polished despite its rustic leanings; good persistence. A paradox of a wine – and that’s why it is so damn good. Once again this ‘second tier” producer rises above the common perception. Best, Jim

2000 D’Aupilhac, Montpeyroux: Engaging aromatics with plums, tar, and a sauvage note with hints of spice and red fruit; medium bodied and well integrated with ripe flavors that follow the nose with clarity, concentrated, moderate complexity; medium finish. Good wine with character and sensual appeal. Worth re-buying. 2002 Fevre, Chablis Champs Royaux: Straight-forward, varietally correct Chablis, with ripe flavors and very little complexity. Drink now. Adequate but nothing more. No re-buy. 2002 LaPierre, Morgon: I have four bottles of this left and I think I’ll just hold them. Current tastes are of a simply, slightly charred gamay with little to interest me. There are so many other cru Beaujolais in this price range or less that are superior. No re-buy. 2002 Coudert Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie Cuvee Tardive: Like this one, for example. A rich, velvety wine with real weight in the mouth, huge concentration and excellent persistence. It may be years before this is fully ready, but they will be very good years along the way. It’s no longer available but if it were, I’d buy another case. 2000 Elyse, Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley: Nice, medium weight, not overly woody cabernet that, if it cost $20, I’d buy again. It doesn’t and I won’t. 1998 Les Pallieres, Gigondas: Clearly of its place with a salty mineral component on both the nose and palate to accent the slightly rustic black fruit and spice tones, a worsted texture, concentrated, balanced and persistent. Delicious with or without food. Someone else’s bring so the price is unknown; if reasonable, re-buy. Best, Jim

Aperitif: 2003 Pax, Rose of Syrah: Without question the best rose I have ever tasted; fine, clean aromatics; a deep, fresh but truly full-flavored palate; and lots of finish. I will buy a case of this immediately. With grilled shrimp with grilled pineapple and sweet chilies: 1999 St. Cosme, Condrieu: Somewhat sherried on the nose with a rich, thick palate of tropical fruit and honey; good sustain. Not my favorite viognier but representative of the appellation. With gnocchi, crawfish tails and a goat cheese cream sauce: 2003 Guigal, Condrieu: The flip side of the St. Cosme; bright, refreshing, acidic and clean with a lightweight mouthfeel and plenty of cut. My preference of the two Condrieu, but I was in the minority. With grilled veal chop and wild mushroom risotto: 1993 Ponsot, Griotte-Chambertin: The aromatics were alive and powerful from the moment it was opened but the palate developed over and hour or so; sour cherry and a clay-mineral aromas; great intensity and flavors that follow the nose but add spice and other red fruit notes, good balance and finesse; a long finish. Does anyone make bad wine from this vineyard? This bottle is just coming into its own and needs time in the cellar or the decanter but it does not disappoint. ‘Wonderful with the dish. Best, Jim

Many thanks. For some reason, tasting notes don't seem to generate a lot of responses even though, in most cases, they are more time consuming to prepare than other posts. 'Always nice to get feedback. I'll look for yours. Best, Jim

1997 Antica Terra, Pinot Noir (OR): Once so tannic it was virtually undrinkable, now it is so woody as to be likewise. This producer did a good job in 1998 but this is a failure. 1999 J. Drouhin, Charmes-Chambertin: Excellent wine (although “grand cru” may be a little rich) with crackling black raspberry fruit, nice concentration (without the slightest hint of over-extraction), fresh and lively on the palate, beautiful balance and good sustain. Delicious. 2002 Chanrion, Cote-de-Brouilly: Textbook cru Beaujolais with cherry and face powder scents; light but intense on the palate with ripe fruit and spice; and, good length. Nice juice. 1999 Ambroise, Cote-de-Nuits Village: A moderate little Burgundy that is pleasant without being more. Quaffing wine. 2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos-de-Allees: I should have bought ten cases. Although I love vinous variety, this is one of the best white wines in my cellar and I could drink it regularly. 1998 Torii Mor, Pinot Noir Seven Springs Vnyd.: Showing very young with black fruit, bramble, gentle oak and a nice mélange of black and brown spices; crisp on the palate and fairly closed with flavors that echo the nose without much development; medium length. Smacks of 1er Vosne to me and needs a lot of time in the cellar. 2002 Anselmi, Capitel Foascarino: Soave with complexity; savory and ripe with lots going on but in a very subtle and nuanced way. Lovely. 1997 Glen Fiona, Syrah Bacchus Vnyd.: Syrah, yes; but simple and sour. I couldn’t finish it. Best, Jim

2001 Knoll, Riesling Durnsteiner Schutt Smaragd: Initial fresh air and floral scents mingle with citrus skins, light honey and baked-pear aromas, some hints of spice and stone; full bodied with a viscous texture, integrated palate and velvet mouthfeel, flavors follow the nose and add a saline-flint note, solid acids, extraordinary depth and complexity; and, a truly magnificent finish – it carries the viscosity of the palate through as well as its structure and complexity. Powerful though still refined; delineated yet harmonious; not at peak but, even so, most impressive and enjoyable at both intellectual and sensual levels. Very special wine! Aside: I have an old and dear friend who has been into wine for decades and, to paraphrase, has tasted it all. His palate is more acute than mine and, certainly, more experienced. He tells me that what he looks for in good wine (it must be enjoyable first) is the finish; “you know when you taste a wine if it’s good, but the finish tells you how good it can be.” Right or wrong, who knows? But I bet he’d like this wine. Best, Jim

With houseguests in, Diane made Cassoulet and we tasted: 2000 Nikolaihof, Riesling Steiner Hund: It is always difficult to get across in words when a wine is, essentially, perfect. Suffice it to say the aromatics were nearly explosive and remarkably complex, the palate likewise and the length hard to believe. And with the food, superb. Ready now, will last (but why wait?). 1999 Chevillon, Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Cailles: Showing almost painfully young but still refined and relatively complex in the Chevillon style. Black fruit driven, excellent depth, a distinct mineral-stone backbone and ripe tannins; classic Nuits for certain, but perhaps even more identifiable as Chevillon. A wonderful future waits. Very good with the food. With assorted cheeses: 1999 Pruduttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco: Two different wines; upon opening, I’d have thought it some internationally styled cabernet; an hour later, the tar-rose-nebbiolo nose appeared and the texture had that sort of worsted mouthfeel that gives evidence of its structure. Well concentrated juice with surprisingly good balance in need of a decade. Very good with the dish. Best, Jim

Aperitif: 2003 Copain, Viognier Catie’s Corner: Not really enjoyable. Smelled and tasted like rousanne, carried at least 14% alcohol, missed any of the aromatics that Viognier can have and generally disappointed. If you’ve got it, sell it. With toasted olive bread, white bean, basil and tomato topping and condiments that included roasted peppers, olives and fresh buffalo mozzarella: 1997 J. Moreau & Fils, Chablis Valmur: Excellent on the nose with complex aromas of acacia, honey, mineral, ripe citrus and hints of earth; intense on the palate with flavors that echo the nose, good depth and concentration, excellent balance and complexity; medium length, slightly washed-out finish. It may be slightly closed or it may be coming to the end of its shelf life. In my experience, this and the Clos are always the best wines from this house. Delicious with the food. With roast pork tenderloin, fresh sautéed corn with red onions and a mache salad: 2002 Bouchard, Chassagne-Montrachet (rouge): Distinctively Chassagne and despite being a sound example thereof, not a wine I will revisit. There is something about the pinots from Chassagne; they are hard and there is a distinctive profile to them that, although I can not adequately describe, does not appeal to me. Not a bad wine but not one that hits my personal pleasure centers. 1999 Chevillon, Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges: Everyone at the table, except me, thought this wine was sound; I thought it ever so slightly corked. Youthful, simple and non-descript aromatics, something slightly amiss on the simple palate and a sort of dullness that never was fully identifiable but touched everything. Others enjoyed it and I say more power to them. Not a showing I thought worthy of the house, vintage or appellation. With Epoisses and pecan crackers: 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet: Kicks ass. (The rest you’ve heard before.) Best, Jim

Although I started as a Parker-sheep, I have grown to this. Ah, wasted youth . . . Best, Jim

2001 Andrew Hood, Riesling (Tasmania): Reminded me of Trimbach’s front-line riesling but with slight RS; very good and, at about $6, worth looking for. Imported by Lapham Imports, Miami. 2000 Mont Marcal, Cava Brut Res.: Lots of fizz and little flavor. Not bad but not much. 2002 Geyser Peak, Sauvignon Blanc: A sauvignon without cat-pee; more in the pineapple/grapefruit profile with decent acidity. Preety good. 2001 Rutherford Hill, Chardonnay: Not too oaky but something is off here; my guess is that lack of concentration allows what wood there is to be too much apart of the palate and finish. NV Bonny Doon, Riesling Pacific Rim: Tastes good, just a hair short on acidity, drink now. 2003 Bonny Doon, Vin Gris de Cigar: A very nice rose with solid flavors, decent acidity and it even has a finish. Good wine. 2002 Esser, Cabernet Sauvignon: Bad wine. Tastes like it was made in someone’s basement; candied, herbal, nasty. 2001 Wildhorse, Pinot Noir Central Coast: Earthy and warm, maybe a little muted but I’d be happy to have this with dinner. 2001 Dry Creek, Heritage Clone Zinfandel: A little oaky for me but made in a restrained style with good balance. 2002 Las Rocas, Garnacha: Soft with a touch of chocolate; pleasant wine that should be drunk now. 1999 Parusso, Barbera D’Alba Superiore: A solid and balanced barbera that would be perfect with lighter Italian fare. Best, Jim

2002 Lapierre, Morgon: Good wine but not exciting with raspberry, strawberry flavors and chalk accents. FWIW, there are a number of reports of bottle variation for this vintage so, perhaps, this was one of the variants. 2003 Champalou, Vouvray: A bit sweet, blousy and diffuse; not much here that tastes like chenin. Fair, at best. 2002 Zind-Humbrecht, Riesling Brand: If not the best wine Z-H has ever made, certainly the one with the best acids; utterly stunning, concentrated but not thick, ripe without going any farther, beautifully balanced, weightless but powerful, and as well structured as any Brand I’ve tasted. In ten years, this will be one of the world’s great rieslings. $70, however, is out of my league. 2000 Cuilleron, Gaillard, Villard; Cornas Les Barcillants: Good wine; false advertising. Smells like a well-made, fruit-sweet, domestic syrah; has the slightest hint of its European origins on the palate which is medium bodied, ripe and balanced; medium finish with a touch of tannin. Anybody looking for a nice, non-woody, relatively elegant, balanced, vaguely European syrah will be happy with this bottle for $20. But if it’s Cornas you want, this ain’t it; not even close. There’s no “there” there; no meat, no olive, no smoke, no funk; no character. Drink now. NV Casal Garcia, Vinho Verde: Lime blossom, white grape and ginger nose; crisp and lightweight on the palate with clean flavors that follow the nose, nice intensity and a medium finish. ‘Just delightful and, at 9% alcohol, as easy to drink as any summer white. Cheap, too. Best, Jim