Florida Jim

Several friends who prefer domestic wine have mentioned how poor a vintage 1998 was for CA cabernet. As evidence of my considerably different palate, I have yet to have one that I thought poor and several I would actually buy; that being rare, indeed. Shafer usually does pretty good work, even at lower price points - at least that's my experience. And I've had a few of their cabs. that have developed beautifully for thirty years or more in the cellar. Along with Phelps and Montelena, I don't know many others on the leftcoast I can say that about. Best, Jim

Some thoughts on a recent trip to Sonoma and Mendocino counties: Eaglepoint Ranch, under the viticultural stewardship of Casey Hartlip, is not only a beautiful setting but the source of many fine wines from makers such as Copain, Thackery and others. However, one should not overlook the wines Casey is making under the name of the ranch; I bought the 2003 grenache and I am usually no fan of the variety. This wine is supple, full of strawberry (not cherry), elegantly structured and weighted despite 14.1% alcohol and does not lack for grip. A nice wine by itself, it comes alive with food. Oh by the way, if you’re in Ukiah, do not miss lunch or dinner at Patrona on W. Standley Street; a gem to be sure. Soon to be released is Bevan Cellars, Port; a cabernet fruit driven but not raisined version of this wine just made for an after-dinner cheese plate. All mailing list, I suspect, as the production is miniscule. Bennett Valley is now an AVA and looks like it has good potential to grow cooler climate varieties, especially at elevation. I tasted the 2001 Loxton, Rubiyat Vnyd. syrah, and although this bottle showed very low levels of TCA, it was remarkable for its complexity and textures; more European styled than I would have expected from an Aussie winemaker. Likewise, a small private label producer, although his first vintage was heavy on the brett, showed some nice promise with his fruit. Obviously, production is in its infancy here and the soils I saw looked to contain lots of clay – still, careful rootstock and clonal selection and a few years of experimentation could make this designation a player in the market, especially with syrah. As Steve Kistler with his cuvee Elizabeth and Pete Marsh at Marsh Vineyard have demonstrated, the Occidental area also looks good for cool weather grapes. A trip I made to Forrestville and Graton revealed similar potential. Mostly pinot noir is what I saw (although some Rhone varieties, too) and some red soils that looked extremely attractive for such plantings. And someone out there is doing some excellent vineyard managing. A conversation with an owner of a hillside vineyard in the Healdsburg area was instructive; he was growing fruit just to sell but wanted to sell to a winemaker that would style wines consistent with the manner the owner had chosen to grow his grapes. He eschewed the heavy leaf-picking, maximum alcohol, longest possible hang-time method and would not alter his methods, even if failing to do so lost him a client. Moreover, my read on this fellow was not that he was simply being stubborn but that he had the integrity of his convictions and sufficient knowledge of his land to be clear-headed about such decisions. No square pegs in a round hole for this guy. Of course, being prosperous in other endeavors probably leant perspective, too. In any event, it was heartening to see that kind of decision making. The 2002 Vaillons from Louis Michel is delicious Chablis that can be found around at reasonable prices (well, reasonable for this hyped vintage). Full of fruit but backed by powerful minerality and structure, this should be good for many years. Greg LaFollette is coming on as the new winemaker at Deloach and I tasted their new sauvignon blanc; its a fine, crisp, citrus driven rendition of the variety. Also, I tasted the dry gewürztraminer that showed nicely, although short of the density of, for example, a Zind-Humbrecht (which, as far as I’m concerned, can be a good thing depending of the food it’s served with). Look for Greg to bring this label back to prominence - quickly. Land prices in Sonoma County are still pushing the outer edge of the market envelope. When three acres (two planted) brings a million dollars, you know that demand outstrips supply. And here I thought all the dot-commers had already sold out and bought land. For those visiting the area, I suggest a stop for dinner at the Fig Café in Glen Ellen. Corkage is always waived, the room is both informal and inviting, the service friendly and efficient, and the food as delicious as it is down to earth. And the prices are small – and I mean small – by comparison to any other quality restaurant in the area. Bottle Barn, in Santa Rosa, rocks! It was a good trip. It’s also good to be home. Best, Jim

In Tampa, there are several worth your time. I don't know the other areas. PM if you are going to Tampa. Best, Jim

Jim, I would point out that my opinion about Fevre is certainly in the minority; others may give you a different take. I have had a few of the 02 Fevre but not the Vaillons. I found the Bougros more concentrated but quite tropical in an almost California way. The Clos I tasted was very closed and was pretty hard to get a read on (but then so was Dauvissat's). The Fourchaume was pretty much as I describe the Royaux. After a recent tasting of the 02 Fourchaume from Boudin (Dom. de Chantemerle) that impressed me for its floral, feminine nose; its flavor complexity; and its obvious structure, I found the Fevre pleasant but little more. I do hope you have better luck than me - but then too, a grain of salt with my opinions is warranted. Best, Jim

2001 Maximin Grünhäuser, Riesling Kabinett Abtsberg: Nose of honey-coated pineapple, fresh Rainier cherries and nutmeg; the same flavors on the palate which gains weight with air but never loses its bright, nearly edgy acidity; medium length. A.P. # 3 536 014-13-02, 7.5% alcohol and lovely. Served with assorted light cheeses as a first course. About $18. 2003 Scrubby Rise, Chardonnay Wirra Wirra Vineyards: 13.5% alcohol, it does not see any wood, only 15% of the wine goes through malolactic, under screw cap; clean, restrained but clear chardonnay fruit on the nose with Chablis-esque fruit and stone on the palate and good cut, decent concentration and intensity, nice balance; medium finish. Delicious chardonnay that can’t even spell t-r-e-e and honestly tastes like its variety. $9, Wilson-Daniels imports, and, I’m going back for a case tomorrow. Stood up to grilled tuna. 1991 Caymus, Cabernet Sauvignon: Yes, there’s too much wood here and that element oscillates back and forth between dill and graham cracker, but the fruit underlying can not be denied; its structure is fully resolved, smoothly textured and it tastes complex and delicious – what an immense pleasure this wine was, despite the wood treatment. I wonder what it could have been with a more restrained barrel program; likely, awesome – even now it’s damn good. Essence of cassis throughout. And in those days, the price was within reason. Fine with cheese. 2003 Colonnara, Verdicchio dei Castellie di Jesi Lyricus: An instance where stemware makes a difference; I enjoyed this out of smaller stems previously and today, out of Vinum syrah stems – out of syrah stems, it rocked! Alluringly complex nose of smoky flint, sweet resin, pear and freshly cut grass; on the palate it is layers of pear, sour apple, fresh herbs and bitter almond that are smoothly textured but bright, concentrated, intense, complex and perfectly balanced; long, bitter almond finish with a hint of black pepper. (Somewhat reminds me of greco di Tufo but this is more intricate and precise). I should say that none of the “sour” or “bitter” descriptors used above are indicative of the wine as a whole, rather they are elements in the otherwise ripe fruit nose and palate. Thus, the overall affect is complexity not displeasure. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Winebow, and refreshing. I got several cases at $4/bottle, which is a pretty good deal. But even at three times the price, this is real wine and ready now. Superb with turkey sandwiches. Best, Jim

With meat loaf, mashed potatoes and succotash: 1999 Clos D’Agon, Tinto: This vintage is 50% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 20% syrah; the recently tasted 2001 vintage was 70% cabernet sauvignon and 30% syrah. It spent 18 months in new French oak and has 13.5% alcohol. It reminds me of a model (male or female), utterly unblemished, the epitome of current fashion and beauty; polished and perfect with no reason to dislike it . . . and no reason to remember it. Smells like CA cabernet without too heavy a hand on the wood, tastes much the same, has some spice, almost unbelievably fine grained tannins, glossy textures in the mouth, plenty of grip and a long, balanced finish. In a decade or two, I may be completely wrong about this wine; it is certainly well made, well stuffed and balanced – my only hope is that the swan will turn into a duckling. But I’m not spending another $30 to find out. Imported by Eric Solomon. Best, Jim

With pasta with beans, olives and chard stems, salad and asparagus spears: 2003 Colonnara, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Lyricus: Unripe pear, lime skin and almond on a reticent nose; lightweight, light bodied, bright flavors follow the nose but have some depth and the almond turns slightly (and attractively) bitter, nice balance; medium length finish. The perfect wine for “spa” food; this will never overwhelm any dish and would also be a pleasant aperitif. 12.5% alcohol, $4, and imported by Winebow. Delightful with this food. With meat loaf and roasted root vegetables: 2001 Dominio de Tares, Cepas Viejas: 100% mencia (60+ year old vines), 13% alcohol, nine months in French and American oak. I bought this ($20) on the strength of this producer’s front-line wine simply called mencia (or tinto on some labels) and have learned that there are two other upper-end cuvées beyond this bottling. The low end wine was wonderful (see note in my post “A few more”) and showed signs that development was possible. This bottling, however, is full of caramelized wood on the nose, palate and finish – not to the extent that it obliterates what is beautifully concentrated fruit, but to the extent that it clearly detracts. This is the kind of wine-making that makes me crazy; fabulous juice that, at least for now, shows wood to the detriment of the fruit. In all fairness, perhaps in time the wood will integrate; the concentration is certainly here to give that chance. But today this wine is nothing I would want to drink again and has soured me on this house. I will be very, very careful with any further purchases of other vintages of the low-end mencia but I’ll probably go back to by all the 2001 the store has. And all the upper end stuff has just ceased to exist. What an immense waste. Not even the food helped. Best, Jim

2001 Dominio de Tares, Mencia: Made from 100% mencia from the Bierzo region, northwest of Madrid, this is the first vintage from this house; the wine smells of ripe, dark cherries, black plums, stones and brown spices; medium body, silky texture, very fine grained tannins, focused yet rich flavors that follow the nose, good concentration, intensity and balance; long and slightly astringent on the finish. Although somewhat more tannic than pinot noir, this shares some of the texture, weight and spice elements of a Côte-de-Nuits, and gives the overall sensation of clarity. It is 13.5% alcohol, $12, surely capable of a medium term shelf life and, perhaps, some development. Imported by Classical Wines, Seattle. 2002 Fevre, Chablis Champs Royaux: Solid Chablis with no overt wood, a sense of place and ripe fruit. But this is not something I’ll buy again. There is little depth of flavor, minimal concentration and, overall, nothing convincing about the wine. A decent bottle but just not enough. About $16. 2002 Bodegas Mustiguillo, Mestizaje: Having had my first bottle of this a couple days ago (see note “All over the lot”), I wanted to revisit the wine to be certain it’s as good as I thought – it is. ‘Hard to believe this is a $12 bottle. 1993 Bonair, Cabernet Sauvignon Morrison Vineyard: This Yakima Valley cabernet smells of Amarone and insecticide, delivers a raisened very Amarone-like flavor profile in a lightweight, fully resolved manner with a medium length, slightly drying, finish. The label says 12.5% alcohol but the style indicates over-ripeness; so I’m thinking either the label lies or they used some very toasty American oak barrels. More interesting than pleasurable and in decline. Best, Jim

Ed, I noticed you mentioned Soave; don't forget Anselmi's wines which, although that is their place of origin, do not say Soave on the label. Others that may interest: Torres, Vina Sol, Any of the wines from Rueda, including Naia, Martinsancho and others, And if bubbles does not disqualify a choice, Cava and Proseco are inexpensive and worth a try, Godello, such as that from Bodega Senorio is very nice, Albarino from Pazo de Senorans, Burgans and others, Greco de Tufo, Fahangina and Fiano de Avelino are lovely Italian whites and Feudi de San Gregorio makes each, and many, many more. But all of the above can be found in your price range. Best, Jim

N/V Lassale, Champagne Brut Premier Cru: Pretty wine, if you like Extra Dry. There is some RS and the mousse is quite frothy. Not my style. 2003 Neyers, Chardonnay Carneros: Smells like urine yet tastes pretty clean and crisp. But not for $20. 2003 L’Hortus, Rosé (Languedoc): Moderately full flavored, medium intensity aromatics and nothing out of place. Pleasant. About $10. 2003 Bonny Doon, Syrah: Olive juice mixed with unripe wine. DNPIM. About $13. 2002 Bodegas Mustiguillo, Mestizaje: Made from bobal, this is a very dark, rich, character driven wine with fruit sweet aromatics, dark fruit flavors, excellent concentration, layers of flavor, well structured, nice balance, grip and length. 13.5% alcohol and worth the $12 price. Definitely has a shelf life, too. Very impressive. 2003 Carmenet, Merlot: Innocuous and dilute; mix with water and you’ve got pink water. About $10. 2002 Torres, Viña Sol (375): Made from the Parellada grape (usually blended into Cava) this smells of citrus, peach and rain water; tastes of ripe apples with hints of pineapple and licorice; has a creamy but not manipulated texture; is medium bodied, squeaky clean, bright, well balanced, and has astonishing length. At 11% alcohol and $3 for a 375 ml, I will buy a lot of this. Lip-smackingly good, now. 2001 Lavrados de Feitoria, Douro: A soft wine with scents of strawberry syrup and herbs; tart flavors that follow the nose and a short, slightly green finish. Others liked this better than me; the green elements were distracting and slightly mildewed (not corked). 12.5% alcohol and about $7. 2003 Anselmi, San Vincenzo: Juicy fruit gum, citrus and white grape juice on the nose; viscous, medium body, flavors that follow the nose, on a round but bright palate that shows concentration and juiciness; a medium length, clean finish. A mix of garganega with probably some trebbiano de Soave and chardonnay makes this both complex and complete. Mouthwatering wine with enough body and texture to stand against lighter sauces and white meat. 12.7% alcohol and about $10; ready now. Yum! 2003 Corte Giara, Soave: Not as juicy or as concentrated as the Anselmi; much more a wine for drinking without food or with salads and such. Well made and balanced in a lightweight, elegant style. 12.5% alcohol and about $8. 2003 Bodegas Emeterio Fernández, La Legua: This 96% tempranillo, 4% grenacha joven wine from the Cigales DO (adjacent to Ribera del Duero) has a fruit forward nose of dark plums, currants and nutmeg with hints of raspberry; the palate echoes those flavors with a medium bodied, light weight, satin textured delivery that is at once elegant, dusty, polished, persistent and has good grip. At 13.5% alcohol and about $7, this is splendid lunch and light dinner wine and will easily cellar a year or two. 2003 St. Supery, Sauvignon Blanc: Straight-forward, clean and crisp sauvignon with not too much cat pee, not too much grass and a pleasant helping of grapefruit across both the nose and palate. Delicious. 2003 Ken Wright Cellars, Pinot Noir Carter Vnyd.: Drink this today, not tomorrow. At 15% alcohol, you can feel the alcohol peeking at you from behind the door; go through and this wine will turn into a mixed drink; nice aromatics, no overt oak and a sappy, delicious palate today – but it will go quickly; beware! (Brian Loring, you would love this wine!) 2002 Merry Edwards, Pinot Noir Klopp Vnyd.: At 14.7% alcohol this is too oaky on the nose and bordering on flat on the palate. Drink very soon and be prepared for a solid dose of new wood on the nose. Not my style, despite having liked earlier Merry Edwards efforts. Best, Jim

After going through about 15 bottles of the 2003 Dolium, Syrah over the past year or so, I have come to the conclusion that this wine displays more bottle variation than any other I can remember. Two nights ago I’d have sworn it was a northern Rhone with no alcohol showing, complex aromatics, and a rich, layered palate. On other occasions, the alcohol has been obtrusive, the fruit candied, the aromatics simple and the overall impression one of supermarket juice. But there has been no progression over time; just random bottles that showed quite different from the last and the next. Odd stuff and even at $10 a bottle, I won’t buy it again. On the other hand, I recently became acquainted with Laderas de Pinoso, a producer in Alicante, Spain. I started with their 2003 front-line bottling called Viñedos de El Sequé (about $8) which I found a delicious, well-balanced monastrell based wine. After a couple bottles, it became clear that this is not only good juice but has a cellar life ahead of it; so I bought a case. Last night, I had my second bottle of its big brother, the 1999 El Sequé. Using 100+ year old monastrell vines, this is a terrific bottle of wine at any price; and even better for its $20 price tag. Deeply complex on the nose and palate showing the profile of the grape with smooth concentration, authenticity and persistence; obviously, I need to go get a box of this wine, as well. Little by little the Iberian Peninsula is coming into focus. And even with the discrepancy between the dollar and the euro, many of these wines are bargains. Viva España! Best, Jim

1991 Caymus, Cabernet Sauvignon: On its last legs but still balanced, softly fruited and carries some grip. It has matured without developing, such that everything tastes as it always did but it’s rounder and softer in the mouth and any oak signature has fallen away. Drink very soon. 2000 Burgess, Cabernet Sauvignon: For CA cabernet lovers, I can’t think of a better value at about $20. Full of blue and black fruit and chocolate with some structure and concentration, little oak and good persistence. 2000 Windward, Pinot Noir: A pinot with a distinct citric edge (think orange zest) that comes across quite dry, high-toned and crisp. Interesting juice that makes me wonder what a year or two will do. 2002 Dom. Du Clos du Fief (Tete), Juliénas: Starting to close-up despite being texturally one of the most balanced and spherical wines I’ve tasted in the past year. Hold. 2002 Protocolo (red): A joven wine that is perfect for hamburgers. I assume this is tempranillo, although the label does not indicate. Fruit forward, well balanced, mildly complex and delicious now – all for about $4. What’s not to like? 2000 Dom. Tempier, Bandol Cuvée Speciale: Black fruit, smoke, salt and several different earthy aromas lead to a complex and precisely balanced palate of flavors that follow the nose but layer it out, rich and concentrated; from first sip to last this is flawlessly executed without any hint of élevage tricks or errors; a dry yet complex finish. Structured with finesse; interesting, authentic and pleasurable; and, giving an impression of “wholeness;” a wonderful wine with an immense future. About $30. Best, Jim

No reason to argue. A nice "little" wine, I think. Best, Jim

Settling, you say? Best, Jim

Bernard and Samantha Roth were in town for a little business and to visit a friend so we all got together for dinner. With red lentil spread and crackers, we opened the N/V Marques de Monistrol, Cava Brut Reserva which is an elegant sparkler that is both citric and slightly yeasty on the nose, with similar, crisp flavors and a fine bead. Having not seen the bottle, Bernie thought it might be N/V Blanc de Blanc, Champagne, and it could surely pass for such. (BTW, Bernie, if you read this, I think I told you this was made of chardonnay – my bad. Rather, it is a blend of macabeo, parellada and xarel-lo.) With grilled duck breast and grilled vegetables on cous-cous, we had two wines; first, the 2002 Drouhin, Chorey-les-Beaune that was open and generous on both the nose and palate. A ripe, well-balanced Burgundy that matched well with the duck and drinks well now. The second bottle was the 1999 Laderas de Pinoso, El Sequé, the big brother of the Viñedos de El Sequé, the 2003 vintage of which I have been lauding over the past several weeks. This mostly monastrell from over 100 year old vines has plush aromatics and deep, mostly black fruit and spice flavors; well-integrated and balanced, it benefited from a couple hours in the decanter. Excellent with the duck. To finish, the 1981 Hopler, Noble Reserve (375), showed orange rind, custard and vinyl aromas and was sweet without being cloying. Its 24 years in bottle have given it a mellow texture and it is probably at peak now. Best, Jim

Mary, I admit an ulterior motive to my posts; I hope they pave the way for face to face meetings. That is why I don't worry about not getting a lot of responses. Reading is enough to give us common ground and shared experiences - good stuff to start with if you want to make friends. I travel a lot, so I meet alot of the people I correspond with. The number of friends made makes all the posting more than worthwhile. Best, Jim

2003 Gessamí, Gramona: There’s rain-water and chewing gum (not bubble gum) on the nose; similar flavors on the palate add white fruit with the texture of a quality Soave, good acidity, concentrated and agreeable balance; medium length. This is a seamless Spanish white wine with character and interest. Excellent accompaniment to crackers with spreads of red lentils, hummus and egg salad with olives and assorted raw vegetables. About $12, 11.5% alcohol from importer European Cellars. 2003 Dolium, Syrah: This Argentine syrah weighs in at 14.5% alcohol and despite smelling and tasting of fruit and black pepper, the finish is too searingly hot for this taster. This was better at release (6 mos. ago) and seems to be showing more and more alcoholic heat with even this small amount of age. About $10. 1996 Domaine de Montgilet, Anjou Villages: There is a distinct herbal edge to the black cherry, baking chocolate and spice nose, sometimes behind the fruit, sometimes in front of it; on the complex and powerful palate the fruit and tannin dominate and the herbal and spice notes are bit players; big and brawny in the mouth, perhaps better with grilled or sauced steak than the butternut squash and feta ravioli I had it with; concentrated, intense, bright, tannic, grippy and long; still several miles from it’s peak. The “Latour” of Anjou. A 13% alcohol, $20 Loire cabernet franc (on release) from European Cellars that will likely outlast me. Hold. 2002 Lynmar, Pinot Noir Quail Cuvée (375 ml): Soft, black cherry, milk chocolate and gentle oak nose without much complexity; medium body, softly textured, unfocused flavors follow the nose, concentrated but disjointed giving the impression of being somewhat hollow at mid-palate; medium length finish. Not as impressive as the last time I tried it (two weeks ago) but clearly shows its Swan clone blend and may simply need time in the cellar. 14.3% alcohol and about $20 for the 375. Good with grilled veggies, ricotta salata and crusty olive bread but not perfect. Best, Jim

Speaking only for myself. I post tasting notes 95% of the time. And although I like EG and the participants, many of the posts on the wine board are "troll" oriented (eg. what is your favorite _______?) or point to articles in the press. There's nothing wrong with that, but I prefer tasting notes and the conversations that spin out of them to everything else. But then, I post just about everywhere in the known universe so, in one way or another, I get what I came for. You can do that, too, if you aren't getting what you want. Or not. It's supposed to be fun for everyone - and if it isn't, why bother? Best, Jim

2002 Drouhin, Chorey-Lès-Beaune: Not the usual soft, plump Chorey for immediate consumption, this wine has depth, structure and that firmness on the palate so typical of good Beaune. A bit unforthcoming at the moment, this could use a year or two in the cellar, but it is concentrated and has grip. And at $18, promises a great deal for very little risk. Excellent even now with wild mushroom risotto. 1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Willamette Valley: Somewhat closed and stemmy on the nose and while the wine opens in the decanter, the “green” never dissipates completely. There’s good, solid fruit of almost California size and the balance works, but the stemminess is just too much for this taster. 2002 Navarro, Gewürztraminer Cluster Select Late Harvest (375 ml): Tangerine nose with honey and floral scents and light brown spice tones; integrated in the mouth with very little RS, a medium intense mineral base for the several flavors which follow the nose, concentrated, focused and tightly knit; excellent persistence. I am no fan of sweet wines or Gewürz., but this is ravishing by itself and good accompaniment to ginger cake. Thanks Bree. 2003 Laderas de Pinoso, Alicante Viñedos de El Sequé: Made mostly of monastrell (mourvèdre) with a little cabernet sauvignon; 13.5% alcohol; and “nothing but net.” Warm plum and black fruit nose with a nice baked brick tone and a slight tar accent; complex flavors with good depth follow the nose, very fine grained tannins, excellent concentration and a medium length finish. All in a smooth, well-balanced package that costs about $8. Very highly recommended. 2003 Bodegas Ercavio, Tempranillo Roble: Dark fruit, cinnamon bark and light pepper notes on the nose are echoed on the palate which is concentrated, smooth, integrated and balanced. Not especially complex but not simple either; well-made, straight-forward tempranillo that was delicious beside grilled bread with assorted spreads and condiments. 13.5 % alcohol and about $8. Best, Jim

Good: N/V Mont Marcal, Cava Brut Reserva Rosé: Deep color for a rosé with a good bead, clean flavors, quite airy in the mouth, solid flavors and an earthy finish. 12% alcohol and $9. Interesting but not fascinating. Better: N/V Mont Marcal, Cava Brut Reserva: Cleaner on the palate and finish than the preceding wine with a strong bead, not as airy in the mouth, deeper flavors and a longer finish. 11.5% alcohol and $9. Lovely wine. Both of the above served with homemade pizza. Best: N/V Marqués de Monistrol, Cava Brut Reserva Selección Especial: That’s a lot of words to say yummy. Good balance, bead, fruit and finesse make this a delicious, dry sparkling wine. The 11.5% alcohol makes it more versatile than many Champagnes and the $7, price tag makes it affordable in quantity. Something my cellar will never be without. With Insalata Caprese, a focused, palate cleansing accompaniment. Still wines: 2000 Hudelot-Noellat, Bourgogne: Slight roasted character on an otherwise black fruit and incense nose, this wine is full flavored with red and black fruit, spice and soy flavors, well-balanced and medium long. An elegant, albeit simple, 12% alcohol bottle that went well with grilled salmon. About $10. 2002 Domaine du Clos de Fief (Tete), Juliénas: About as good as Beaujolais gets. Wonderful, wild red and black fruit aromatics and flavors that show nuance and depth, some spice and very slight floral tones, smooth, concentrated and persistent. 13% alcohol and $20. Certainly it has a shelf-life but it’s so glorious now I can’t keep my hands off. This bottle we had with appetizers. Best, Jim

2003 Feudi de San Gregorio, Falinghina: Apricot nose and palate with good balance, nice presence in the mouth and decent length. No signs of ’03 alcoholic-agony; nice wine. 2003 Bodegas Campos Reales, Tempranillo: Disjointed but not uninteresting with pretty, sweet fruit, fine grained structure and some complexity. For $7, it’s OK; for more, its not. 2002 Protocolo, Rosé: Past prime but not over the hill; clean and delicately flavored without the verve it had six months ago. Buy the ’03 and don’t bother with this. NV Bellavista, Franciacorta Cuvée Brut: The real deal for $20. Clear as a bell across the palate with light aromatics, a nice bead and crisp flavors that carry both finesse and flavor. Have it with a salad or a pizza; I doubt it has many food-pairing limits. A very yummy sparkler. 1998 Paloma, Syrah: Drinking well now without artifice or complexity, it still delivers good flavors and nice balance. 2002 Silver Pines, Rosé: Not showing the incredible crushed raspberry on the nose and palate that it did last September, but still a tasty, albeit alcoholic, full-flavored rosé that is a pleasure to drink. 2002 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: It’s instructive when one goes to dinner with folks who bring all kinds of wine and everyone winds-up drinking this. One more endorsement for this complex, authentic Soave made from Garganega. Excellent wine with at least a short term shelf-life. 2003 Guy Saget, Muscadet de Sevre et Maine: Saline and light fruit on the nose; with a thin mouth-feel, little flavor and no cut or character. About $9. Why anyone would buy this insipid juice when Pépière’s Muscadet is available at $10 is beyond my comprehension. 2003 Menade, Rueda Cuvée Richard Sanz: Honeycomb and flowers on the nose; excessively sweet on the palate (nearly cloying) with little finish. Serve over ice to your great-aunt. Pretty poor. Best, Jim

Sure do. But snow and I do not get along. Best, Jim

It's possible to make your own wine without a vineyard. We do it and have for years. We get grapes from a number of vineyards we tend for people and they get wine back. One can always buy grapes, rent equipment and buy barrels. However you are looking for real estate in one of the most expensive places in the US. I just sold a house with a lot in Spring Hill Fla. for $150,000. Here in Sonoma you might get a mobile home for that. Tis the land of $500,000 starter homes that need work. Best of luck in your quest. Look also in the Foothills, Amador, Eldorado and the whole hwy 49 area. ← Bruce, Thank-you. I'm listening. Best, Jim

Both at the moment, but reality may adjust all that. Thanks, Jim

I’m drinking a delicious wine and a question comes to mind; “I wonder if I could do that?” I know guys that have made the switch from wine geek to wine maker (eg., Russell Bevan of Bevan Cellars) and I’m retired with lots of time on my hands and a love of northern California . . . So this past week, Diane and I spent every day touring areas of northern CA that interest us in search of property, talking to realtors, wine makers and growers, and getting a feel for the areas and the requirements of growing grapes and making wine. Maybe we should have talked to our banker first. It is virtually impossible, in today’s market, to find a few acres with a house on it in wine country for less than a million dollars. Any part of wine country. And prices are going up so rapidly, that it is unlikely that we will ever be able to afford it. Yet there is a difference between a wine-tasting visit to wine country and the search for property. The former focuses on the wine; the latter takes you to places where there isn’t any and to some of the most beautiful vistas and acreage I’ve ever seen. Most of it rural, a lot of it with water problems, some of it with septic problems and none of it in our price range. I should have been discouraged, I suppose, but just the scenery was so inspiring that I wasn’t. Then too, we got to stay with friends and enjoy good company, good food and a little wine; not the stuff of depression. Briefly, it went like this: Day 1: Fly into Sacramento; dinner at Masque (a marvelous restaurant NE of the city which I highly recommend to anyone in the area) where we enjoyed a 1999 Maison Leroy, Volnay Santenots: that started closed and quite oaky but ended the evening more open and with all the oak fully integrated. Needs time but has extraordinary potential. Day 2: Drive through Lake County, Mendocino County (including the Anderson Valley) looking for property and getting a feel for the area. Stopped in several real estate offices, visitor’s centers and spoke to random folks whenever we had the chance. Then out to the coast and drove south eventually winding-up in Sebastapol for the night. Days 3-6: Drive through Sonoma County looking at property, talking to realtors, etc. eventually winding-up at Chez Bevan for the evening and the next three days. Went to a marvelous little restaurant in Glen Ellen (the name escapes me) and slept hard. The next three days were spent in realty offices, on the road, walking over land, talking to wine makers and partying in the Bevan style. (I may be getting a little old for that style – maybe.) Some (of many) wines tasted: 2003 Silver Pine, Syrah: Started closed (bottled about a week ago) but opened over the evening to a clearly CA styled wine with pretty flavors and good concentration. A bit of an enigma now; the promise of the nose was not fulfilled on the palate but this is so young that I’d be very interested to see what it’s like in the future. 2003 Silver Pine, Sauvignon Blanc: Killer sauvignon; very aromatic, very full-flavored; lots of mineral flavors with citrus and grassy tones. Up in the 14’s in alcohol so probably not one for the cellar but quite something now. 1997 Togni, Cabernet Sauvignon: No cabernet fan am I but this showed very well after being decanted several hours. Clearly needs another decade or so in the cave or lots of time in the decanter, if you’re impatient. Day 6: Off to Occidental to visit with Pete and Barbara Marsh (of Marsh Vineyard fame) and learn about actually growing grapes. It appears I’m going back to school and offering my services to a grower if I pick this method of living the “good life.” The complexities of farming are well outside my grasp at this point. But Pete and Barbara live within sight of the Pacific and are extremely gracious hosts. We had a lovely dinner in Bodega Bay at the Sea Weed Café (I think that was the name) and drank some eye-opening wines including, the 2000 Swan, Estate Pinot Noir: which was singing! Rich, deep, bright and long in the mouth with a spice elements and the impression of concentrated black fruit throughout. Nicely complex, too. This got me to re-thinking what can be done with pinot in the Russian River Valley. Also, the 2002 Lynmar, Pinot Noir Quail Cuvée: that was almost on par with the Swan pinot, albeit showing very young with good depth, concentration and length. Last day: A walk through the Occidental Ridges, breakfast with Pete and Barbara and the drive back to the airport. Back at home now and I’m not sure if I was dreaming or previewing a nightmare. Some trip. Best, Jim