Florida Jim

None. I used to subscribe to all of them but have not read any of them in the past several years. And I have no intention of ever reading or listening to them again. For someone who is new to wine, this may not seem the best method of learning; I certainly understand that and point to myself as the best example of not believing in my own palate enough in my early days. But I do think that the goal of most wine geeks should be complete reliance on one's own palate. I am not saying that critics do not have enthusiaism for their professions or recognizable skills. But they have their own preferences and latent prejudices. Moreover, they usually taste wine in a "tasting" situation; that is, wine after wine after wine (whether blind or not) without the benefit of food. I think this makes for a system where only certain wines stand-out from the pack and one that does not assess how wine works with food. That is not how I drink wine; I always have it with food. Hence, I want to know how any wine works with food and over the period of an evening - I don't want a thirty second snap-shot as to how it worked against fifty other wines. Wine appreciation is highly subjective; once one gets past whether a bottle is organically flawed, it is completely subjective. The best wine in the world is the wine you like best. And I don't know of a single person, let alone professional critic, that has my palate. Best, Jim

I agree with Adam but would add that a waiter who "scoffs" or is otherwise condescending to me will see such behavior reflected in his tip. Everybody has a bad day, but that kind of reaction in that kind of setting will not do. Best, Jim

2001 Potel, Chambolle-Musigny: Identifiably Chambolle on the nose; tart black fruit with red fruit accents; slightly disjointed on the palate with good structure, some depth of flavor, fairly open and good persistence. Probably needs a couple years to come together but I doubt it will ever be a “classy” wine. About $30. 2001 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay Caillerets, Ancienne Cuvée Carnot: Less open and more black fruit than the Chambolle but also showing breed well beyond it; quite structured at the moment, some sweet fruit tones but not a lot of flavor; decent length. Obviously requiring cellar time but I’m not sure doing so will be worth the wait. About $25. 2003 Sang des Cailloux, Vacqueyras Cuvée Azalaïs: Medium light aromas of plum and spice; black fruit, salt and spice on the palate which is surprisingly light on its feet, good concentration, some complexity, balanced and a mineral driven finish. This is 14% alcohol and you would never know it; not on the nose and certainly not on the palate. Savory, satisfying, $20 and superb with pork roast. 2003 Wirra Wirra Vineyards, Chardonnay Scrubby Rise: Clean, crisp, well-made, ripe chardonnay that never saw any wood. Refreshing, pairs well with lighter fare, varietally correct and worth buying at $12. 2002 J. Drouhin, Volnay: Within the context of Drouhin’s restrained style, this is almost flamboyant; pretty aromatics of mostly red fruit; very succulent and sweet fruit in the mouth with little concentration or depth, some intensity, structure and good balance; medium finish. This is more about pinot noir than Volnay, and it’s full of baby fat. Whether this will cellar is anybody’s guess but why bother – its lip-smackingly delicious now. About $20. 2002 Montesole, Greco di Tufo: While not a variety lending itself to fat wines, this version is especially dry (although it rounds out somewhat as it warms); all green apple and stone on the nose; the palate adds unripe pineapple, resin and grapefruit pith flavors, all of which ride a laser-like core of acidity to a medium length, crisp finish with added notes of green tea. That may not sound especially appetizing but, surprisingly, it works beautifully with food (turkey sandwich and a light cheese plate) and leaves the taster refreshed. 12% alcohol, about $10 and has a short term shelf life, too. Best, Jim

Yep; my bad. Best, Jim

cm, You should be able to buy almost any commercially available Spanish white wine in that price range. Suggestions include Albarino, Rueda, Godello and Verdejo. The first two varieties should be easy to find, the last two will likely require a search. Buy the current vintage as these are fresh and, usually, best consumed young. BTW, Cava is a sparkling wine from Spain and can also be found in that price range - look for the brut versions. Best, Jim

Calvarino or La Rocca? Best, Jim

Geo, Jouget used to set the standard in Chinon; I think there is at least discussion these days as to whether that's still true. But the Clos de la Dioterie cuvee seems to never miss. I have had a few even older than the one Bennett brought and several of recent vintage; all are excellent examples of Chinon and reflective of the variations in vintage. I don't buy much Jouget these days, but if I could find a source for this cuvee, I'd likely buy it every year (cost permitting). Best, Jim

I have yet to have any 96 Roumier that I thought ready. Not even the village wines. Best, Jim

2001 Knoll, Riesling Smaragd Schutt: Very impressive with noteworthy concentration, cut and intensity, this falls on the dry side of the variety with lots of mineral elements. Not mature by quite some, but showing lots of depth and very nicely with light picnic food. 1996 Clavel, La Copa Santa (Languedoc): Started hard and closed but softened nicely and gained all sorts of flavor depth and textural plush. Cellaring another five years would probably work better than two hours in the decanter, but I sure enjoyed the decanted wine with braised oxtail on fava beans with a silver corn demi-glaze. NV Duval-Leroy, Rosé Champagne: Delightful, celebratory, bubbly with very light RS. Fun, pretty and delicious. 2002 Dom. de la Desoucherie, Cour-Cheverny: The romorantin grape produces a lovely demi-sec (Cazin’s, Cuvée Renissance, for example) but this is my first totally dry version; closed and angular at first, it opened very slowly over an afternoon to show some white fruit and a pretty harmonious acid structure. A couple of years in the cellar would likely be just the thing. 2002 Dom. de la Desoucherie, Sauvignon Blanc (Touraine): Very grassy with perm solution notes that distracted but did not overwhelm; nice cut and quite crisp in the mouth. A clean, somewhat idiosyncratic wine that may have a better future than present but this is not to my taste. Best, Jim

Snobs try to find a difference. Best, Jim

1996 Dom. G. Roumier, Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière: For one fleeting second, there was a note of bottle bouquet and the aroma of fruit and then it was gone and did not return for the three hour period this was open. All crackling acidity on the palate with intensity and concentration, obvious fruit here but no way to tell what it tastes like and absolutely no complexity or harmony. My only solace was that I had not sacrificed one of my bottles to this science experiment. With aioli crusted salmon, no more than quaff. 2000 Pieropan, La Rocca (Soave): As poor as the preceding match was (at the moment), this accompanied pasta with brown butter and pine nuts – and it could not have been better. Powerful aromatics matched well with the brown butter and warm pine nut aroma; the palate was deep and viscous with a very bright backbone of acidity, concentrated, intense and complex across the palate with good persistence. The exception to the rule (my rule) that Soave should never see wood; in this case the barrel aging broadened its complexity without distracting from the lively and ripe garganega fruit and added the element that matched this dish to perfection. A pairing to remember. Best, Jim

I don't know what makes us productive citizens but I suspect how we are raised certainly contributes to that concept. But then, I think that in order to know the difference, at some point in time we probably chose profit and found the decision lacking. And it is that finding that is everything. Best, Jim

In 1956 Mark was born. Today is his 49th birthday. We invited him for dinner and had the wines listed below. But today was better than that. Earlier I dropped by Mark’s place of business. He was faced with a difficult decision that placed profit squarely against integrity. He chose integrity. And so this celebration is for more than just the numbers. 2000 V. Dauvissat, Les Preuses: It would not take much for me to simply turn over my cellar to the person that would deliver this wine to me, bottle for bottle. A clean, very precise rendition of Chablis at its very best. Excellent with cauliflower soup with truffle oil. 1998 Dom. des Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays: Even after two hours in the decanter, the first glass was tight. But the second wasn’t and gave evidence as to why I bought this grand cru. Captivating aromatics followed by a palate and finish that placed perfect execution first and all else second. Delicious with grilled pork chops with green lentils with marinated feta. 1997 Jabolet, Hermitage La Chapelle: Again with the killer bouquet and a solid, meaty, fruit driven palate that lasted much longer than I first had expected. This wine is, as it always has been, quintessential Hermitage. With a five year old Gouda, something to write home about. As is Mark. Best, Jim

2002 Dönnhoff, Riesling Qba: Light on the aromatics, heavy on the acid/structure, little fruit and still a pretty lengthy finish. I don’t have enough experience here; the producer leads me to believe it’s just shut down; the Qba level leads me to believe its past prime – does someone with more experience than I have an opinion? David? John? Good with Thai curry chicken. 2000 Domaine du Vissoux, Moulin á Vent Rochegrès: Ah yes; a fine example of why cru Beaujolais will always be part of my cellar; expansive nose of strawberry, raspberry, flowers, minerals, spices and very light earth tones – all nicely layered and much more integrated than my description can impart; deep flavors that follow the nose, completely resolved structure, a solid backbone of chalky mineral, excellent complexity and balance; medium length, intensely fruity finish. Still a full-blooded gamay with clarity and authenticity – even so, I can sense it moving toward its pinot-esque stage; where many good gamays go when they fully mature. Really quite something at the moment and a nice future even if as a changeling. Delicious with polenta and marinara sauce. Best, Jim

2002 Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rosé: Lovely aromatics of bleach, warm berries and pomegranates with a hint of mineral; fairly viscous in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose, good intensity, some concentration, crisp and excellent balance; medium length, clean finish. Really quite good. 2002 Shelton Vineyards, Syrah: From the Yadkin Valley in NC this smelled like Crozes but was under-ripe, thin and over-oaked. Not for me. 2003 Rubens, Tempranillo: Black fruit and earth on the nose; full bodied, rich, worsted texture, flavors follow the nose, good concentration and balance; long, gritty but not drying finish. Excellent with pizza, excellent without. About $7 and ready now. 2003 Protocolo, Rosé: Copper colored; floral and fruit nose and nicely tart with solid flavors and a medium finish. Easy to drink, especially at $5. 2003 Bodegas Emeterio Fernández, La Legua: A crianza tempranillo that hums along in both the red and black fruit register with good concentration and balance and a smooth mouth-feel. Finishes with a little extra spice. Another fine $8 bottle and dandy with grilled pork chop. Best, Jim

Yep. This wine is 100% cabernet franc from an extremely small appellation in the Loire Valley. I suspect the only place that may have some left is Chambers Street Wines in NYC (212-227-1434). It also carries a less expensive cuvee (I forget the name) from the same producer and variety. Best, Jim

2003 François Chindaine, Montlouis Sur Loire La Tuffeaux: My ignorance came shining through as this turned out to be quite sweet and, although well made and likely appropriate as a dessert wine, it sucked with savory food. 2003 Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf, Touraine La Guerrerie: Cotton-candy in liquid form; cloyingly sweet and confectionary, insipient with unripe(!) flavors and a (mercifully) short finish. God-awful juice. 1995 Rubino della Palazzola: After a decade of being too tannic to drink, this has finally resolved to the point that one does not need a quart of water as chaser; but what’s left is simple, ever-so-slightly sour cabernet with little complexity and nothing to give any indication where it’s from. A long time to wait for mediocre. 2000 Domaine Tempier, Bandol Blanc: Finally, good wine that tastes a little like good Soave but is more complex on the palate and is nicely packaged with a lively, clean delivery that goes beautifully with a frittata and lasts through a cheese course. Nice wine. Best, Jim

T, Thanks for the kind words. I have long since given up the chase for labels and highly touted, usually expensive, wines. Since I only drink wine with food, I am now given over to finding the unique pairing that, once you taste it, you know its perfect. And the esoteric stuff fascinates me. It astounds me that there are so many really fine wines available for less than $20; often from places most people never follow or seldom pay attention to. Best, Jim

What does it mean to describe a wine as "gritty"? Is there sediment in it, or is this a metaphor? ← Not sediment, rather its the textural component that tannins add. And, as in this case, when they are not astringent, I think its a sign of age-ability. Best, Jim

2002 Joël Taluau, St.-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil VV: Utterly pure on the nose with fresh berries, light herbs, stones, spice and dark fruits; very deep flavors follow the nose with some complexity, exceptional concentration without any sign of over-extraction or manipulation, intense, vibrant and supple in the mouth with perfect balance and precise structure; long, slightly gritty (but not drying) finish. Magnificent juice; head and shoulders above any red wine I have had recently, showing youthful rusticity and, at the same time, the beginnings of integration, as well as a clarity that simply can’t be matched. As good a young wine as one could wish for and the potential to be truly great. (A bottle several months ago showed well but nothing like this.) With a pasta dish that included caramelized onions, white beans, roasted red peppers and herbs, this was take your breath-away gorgeous. Imported by Fruit of the Vine, Inc. of NY; 12.5% alcohol and $18 full retail; worth double – or more. Best, Jim

1998 Thomas, Pinot Noir: Much like a recent 1998 Hamacher, Pinot Noir, this shows closed at first; the nose carries a distinctive gun-powder note that I often get from this producer’s wines along with underbrush and light cherry scents; in the mouth its medium bodied with somewhat attenuated red fruit and some secondary development that includes mushroom and earth elements, comes across slightly unbalanced toward acidity but as the wine opens this evens out; medium length, crisp finish. Once open, this wine has several layers of fruit all in the red fruit spectrum, the mouth-feel softens, it shows an elegance not present when the cork was pulled but even so, is still more about structure then fruit; an idiosyncratic wine that is certainly not for everyone. I think I’ll hold most of my Oregon pinots from this vintage for at least a year or two. 2002 Chevillon, Bourgogne: Pure on the nose with both red and black fruit scents and a nice stony/dirt/mineral note that underlies the fruit; again pure and precise on the palate with straight-forward, crunchy red and black fruit flavors, a satin texture, decent structure and nice balance; medium length finish. Gives evidence that it could use a year in the cellar but drinks well now. Thanks Bill. 2003 Colonnara, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Lyricus: This wine has turned out to be quite useful in my house – it has a bitter almond scent and flavor that seems to work especially well vegetables, whether cooked or raw, and has sufficient cut and flavor intensity to work with white meat dishes. Smells of lime skin, almond and mineral; tastes about the same with good acidity and balance; and, finishes clean and longer than one expects from such an inexpensive wine. Ready now and has, at least, a short term cellar life. 1999 Patin, Barbaresco Sori Patin VV: Maybe its just my sense of smell but where many tasters get tar and roses in nebbiolo, I often get insecticide; fortunately this one has lots of fruit to back it up but I wonder if, as this ages, that high-toned element of the nose I equate to Raid® will become more prominent; tannic in the mouth but, as it opens, deep with plum, cassis and black fruit, excellent structure, a worsted texture in the mouth, concentrated, intense, balanced and long, albeit drying. Paired wonderfully with grilled pork chop with polenta; the tannins all but disappeared with the dish. Best, Jim

With cheese and crackers: 2002 Dom. Les Fines Graves (Jacky Janodet), Moulin a Vent: (Sometimes a wine has such a striking aroma that you wonder if its just you recalling a scent from your past . . .) this had the strong smell of elderberries fresh from the garden with some spice and earth tones; structured in the mouth and plenty of grip – at first I did not think there was enough fruit but after an hour or so open, it took on a rounder, denser mouth-feel and the fruit came alive; medium length, slightly tannic. Needs at least two years down and, I suspect, more. Imported by Henry Wine Group, 13% alcohol and about $12. Good wine and good with the cheese. With meat loaf and Caesar salad: 2001 J.N. Moreira, Poeira: Blend includes Touriga Nacional, Touriga Fransceca, Souzao, Tinta Cao and Tinta Roriz (traditional port grapes, in this case, made as table wine), and carries 13% alcohol. The initial smell is one similar to a high-end California cabernet that sees plenty of wood – there’s a light note of sourness to it, although this wine did not actually smell of wood but rather the high-toned smell of unfortified port – not raisened or overripe but intensely fruity; full bodied in the mouth but not chunky or heavy, dense with fairly deep flavors that are more fresh fruit than port-like and mostly in the black fruit spectrum, good structure and balance, plenty of concentration and, if not for a fine-grit tactile sensation, seamless; long, balanced finish. I did not like that initial smell but there is so much good stuff below it and on the palate that I think this has a lot of promise in the cellar; certainly, the blend supports that theory. Good wine now, perhaps much better later. Even better, paired with this dish. Imported by Eric Solomon and about $40. With leftover meatloaf and salad for lunch: 2004 Clos Roche Blanche, Pineau d’Aunis Rosé: Diane likes it so I’ll be ordering more . . . imported by Louis/Dressner and 12% alcohol. A sort of rhubarb and freshly picked herb nose with just a hint of minerality; the same on the palate with the minerality taking on a larger role and a salty aspect and the fruit is quiet and attenuated, ample acidity and intensity, and a surprising, long finish. An ideal wine for vegetarian cuisine or for those who have salads for lunch, as it seems to be made to pair with such fare. Certified organic. Dinner with friends: With pistachios and aged gouda: 2004 Dom. de la Pepiere, Muscadet Sevre et Maine: Another Louis/Dressner wine, 12% alcohol and about $10; citrus, lime skin, wet stones, and fresh air on the nose; substantial viscosity but bright and loaded with cut, flavors follow the nose and add sassafras and white pepper accents, concentrated with complexity (despite its youth), quite intense, nice balance; and excellent length. Showing young and clean with amazing fruit for a Muscadet and great structure. Good with the food and equally so without. Every year, Marc Olivier produces one of the finest and cleanest QPR wines on the planet. But it is more than ‘bang for the buck’ juice; it is plain and simple, great wine regardless of price. As Zachary says, I would buy this wine at twice the price. and, 2000 Dom. Thomas & Fils, Sancerre La Crêle: Unpleasant from the get go; sour cut-grass nose with a similar flavor and little sustain. Past prime, poorly stored or, most likely, badly made. With wild salmon with fava bean purée, baby green salad and roasted sweet potatoes: 1998 Hamacher, Pinot Noir: Chambolle-esque nose with considerable secondary development; black fruit on both the nose and palate turning slightly metallic and truffled; resolved yet still well-balanced; medium length finish. Good but not great alone; likewise with the food. and, 1999 Jean-Luc Colombo, Châteauneuf du Pape Les Bartavelles: Mineral driven aromatics with cooked (not raisend) fruit and an earthiness that keeps it complex; salty minerality on the palate with flavors that follow the nose, intense, concentrated, balanced, no oak showing and persistent. A fine showing for a wine and maker I usually avoid – lesson learned. With goat cheese with fennel pollen and lavender drizzled with honey and sprinkled with almonds: Espresso. Best, Jim

Beer battered asparagus with aioli 2002 F.X. Pichler, Grüuner Veltliner Frauenweingarten Federspiel: Went well with the dish as a lightweight accompaniment with plenty of cut; got more textural and fuller flavored with air. About 11.5% alcohol. Spring Pea Soup with Slow-Cooked Barley 2004 Cloudy Bay, Sauvignon Blanc: All cut grass and grapefruit pith on a powerful nose; rounder on the palate with citrus and grassy flavors; medium length, crisp finish. Representative of NZ sauvignon and good with the dish but nobody went back for seconds. 13.5% alcohol and good with the dish. Sear-Roasted Salmon with Lemon-Rosemary Butter Sauce and a Pistachio and Apple Salad 2002 Domaine Digioia-Royer, Chambolle-Musigny: Slightly oaky on the nose and palate but also well concentrated Chambolle black fruit and a nice elegant package. If the oak integrates (and I think it will) this should be lovely in about three years. 13% alcohol. and, 2002 Cazin, Cour-Cheverny Cuvée Renaissance: Penetrating aromatics include sweet white fruit, mineral, flowers, white pepper, flint and ginger; full bodied with superb focus and complexity wherein the flavors follow the nose, texturally smooth, almost velvety, but also bright with lots of acidic cut, intense and concentrated, well balanced; very long, mineral and fruit driven finish. 12.5% alcohol and despite showing better than any other wine this night, it was still somewhat closed. Has an immense future in the cellar. Killer juice. Hot Grand Marnier Soufflés With coffee. Best, Jim

A very good point. About the candles, I mean . . . Best, Jim

With an exquisite aged Gouda: 2003 Campos Reales, Tempranillo: Black cherry and earth nose; ripe black cherry, earth and spice tones, satin smooth but good grip, balanced; finishes long and lingering. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Stacole and $7. I continue to be impressed with the low-end Spanish tempranillos. I think there is more variation in style at higher price points, but the low-end seems to be pretty consistent – nothing great but everything (or nearly so) good or better. And this wine can be bought today, fully ready to drink tonight. 2003 Rubens, Tempranillo: The darker side of the variety both on the nose and palate with more black fruit and a good bit more earthiness and structure; still balanced and concentrated with a worsted mouth-feel and good grip. 13.5% alcohol, Eric Solomon imports and about $7. Another time: 1997 Showkett, Sangiovese: I had given this bottle away to a friend and it wound-up in a blind tasting of various sangiovese based wines; it reminded me of an older Chianti with an interesting (and not unattractive) aromatic element of sea-air. It did not come across alcoholic or woody or port-ish – and that is saying something, considering the number of times it has in the past. What a (nice) surprise. (As a part of this blind tasting, we tried a number of Brunello, Super-Tuscan, Chianti and other wines of the variety; once again, I am convinced that this is not the grape for me. There is the rare exception (especially, older Brunello) but generally speaking, one wine tastes pretty much like the rest – at least, to me. I would love to hear if others think this grape can be transparent to its terroir; I have almost no evidence to that effect. And I ask because I think the variation I seek arises from that quality.) With assorted cheeses: 1999 Nikolaihof, Riesling Spätlese Steiner Hund: Dramatic aromatics that show layers of minerality, assorted white fruits. delineation and intensity – becomes more integrated with airing; immense depth of flavors that follow the nose, again a mineral profile that shows lots of complexity in itself, great cut and intensity, concentration balance and a very long, captivatingly complex finish. Young, powerful, inspiring wine that, with air, allows one a glimpse of the majesty this grape can attain. (After a 6 month hiatus from my cellar this indulgence reminded me of why I have a cellar – nectar of the gods.) With NY strips, and assorted vegetable purées: 2002 Altos, Malbec Reserva Viña Hormigas: A bit candied on the nose and slightly off (I thought it was corkiness at first but, later, I thought it was related to the oak treatment) with plum, blackberry and cassis scents; extracted, dense and non-descript on the palate with concentration, intensity and nothing to distinguish it from any other similarly extracted, etc. wine. Not bad, but not exciting. 2001 Texier, Côte-Rotie VV: Alluring bacon, smoky, meaty scents woven into both red and dark fruit aromas with spice, white pepper and earth accents – a complete nose and wonderfully typical of its place; medium bodied, elegantly textured in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose with complexity and intensity while never losing that weightless quality really elegant wines have; long, balanced finish. 13% alcohol, imported by Vintner Select and utterly delicious. Best, Jim