Florida Jim

Mature nebbiolo would be my choice. If you have none try Bruno Giacosa's Nebbiolo d'Alba, which is a lighter version of the variety with many of the attributes of a mature Barbaresco or Barolo and at a fraction of the price. Mature Burgundy would be my second choice, especially those which show a bit of that mushroom/truffle note. Best, Jim

Who is the winemaker? Is he new or launching a new brand? Is this a rising star we should know about? -Bevan Cellars (bevancellars.com), Russell Bevan is winemaker, and yes, it is a new brand. As for stardom, if you like Harlan's cab. you're probably going to like his. For my tastes, the syrah should be a better match. Are the bins half-tonners? That means about 50 cases of syrah being produced? -yep And how did you happen to get involved in this adventure? -Russell is an old friend and I have dreams. What do you consider a "typical" CA syrah? Higher alcohol? Are you sure that's "typical" of all producers? -Typical to me is big, alcoholic and extracted. Of coursse it doesn't mean that every CA syrah would be so described but, I think its a fair use of the word typical. As mentioned, I prefer them slimmer and, it appears, that Bevan Cellars '05 edition will be. Best, Jim

Mary, I'm not sure what else to say. The vineyard we picked was in Bennett Valley (near Matanzas Creek Winery) and we made two passes. The first pick was for fruit that was dimpled and the second was several days later for the remainder. Intervening was a leaf-pulling and hard raisened fruit drop so that when the final picking time came we would have very little that needed to be sorted. That worked well as there were only two of us on the sort table and the fruit was about as clean as any I saw in the entire custom crush facility. We wound-up with a couple bins of very clean and perfectly ripe syrah that soaked up to about 25.2 brix. The winemaker's choice was an all natural yeast ferment preceded by a week's cold soak. If I have done the math correctly, the wine should wind-up at about 13.8% alcohol and will see only old wood. The pick was done in late October which should give you an idea that the area is cool climate and so, I expect an atypical CA syrah but one that will be more stylistically to my taste. This same winemaker is making Oakville cabernet sauvignon that will be more in the Harlan mold and will likely be a favorite of certain reviewers. That's probably where he'll make his money. That's about it; any specific questions? Best, Jim

Dinner with George: With salmon spread and crackers: 2002 Chidaine, Montlouis sur Loire Les Choisilles: Knowing both producer and vintage, I had expectations; but this showed a bit thin and not ready for drinking yet. I suspect a year or two will be helpful. Hold. With roast pork, crusty bread and vegetable mélange: 2002 Dom Michel Voarick, Corton-Renardes: The cork was wet to the capsule with some leakage – and if that’s what it takes, may every bottle be that way. Killer aromatics in the cherry and stone register with nuances of spice, earth and very light fresh herb, complex and alluring; every bit as arresting on the palate where the stone is in charge but the fruit and nuances are layered and the texture is silken, good concentration and intensity, lovely balance; good length and clarity. Integrated, ripe without any over-ripeness and pure as can be. Wonderful Corton. After: 2001 Ricasoli, Formulae: Mostly sangiovese this is medium weight, varietally correct and not in the least overdone or over-oaked (why am I so surprised?). An easy wine to like, without real effort, and one possessing good cut and balance. Better than expected. Others: 2002 Barthod, Bourgogne Les Bons Bâtons: As this is closing up, it is losing the sweetness it had on release and is retreating to its structure. Thinner today but good and should be held awhile. 2002 V. Dauvissat, Chablis La Forêt: Showing beautifully with classic Chablis structure and flesh but balanced fruit. Delightful today and, likely, for years to come. 2000 V. Dauvissat, Chablis Les Preuses: Closed. Nothing like the last bottle (June, 2005) with scant fruit and lots of structure on the nose and palate. Hold. 2001 Coturri, Pinot Noir Jewell Vineyards: This Sonoma Mountain vineyard yields less than 1/2 ton per acre from 40 year old vines that are biodynamically and dry farmed. On the other hand, this producer scares me – about half of the bottles I buy that bear its name are not good, for one reason or another. So thank-you Kate for this bottle - since I did not buy it, I am out nothing if it’s bad. It isn’t. This is a good example of the concept of ‘concentration’ (as opposed to extraction) with very powerful fruit and spice tones on the nose, and, deep, rich black fruit with red fruit and spice nuances on the palate. Nothing feels manipulated, although the new/candied oak is evident, and nothing feels overblown, even though the alcohol is at 15% (and nothing shows it; no heat whatsoever). Concentrated, old-vine fruit can veil a myriad of sins. Good structure, too. For those familiar with the producer, there was no brett, VA or other obvious contamination and nothing to suggest that there ever would be. There was however, sediment covering every interior surface of the bottle. Now, that’s unfined and unfiltered! I would love to see this fruit in someone else’s hands . . . like mine, for instance. 2002 Drouhin, Volnay: Pretty nose that still shows some baby fat; more focused in the mouth with red fruit and mineral flavors, medium concentration and intensity – starting to show some structure; medium finish. Hold N/V Marquis de Monistrol, Cava Brut Reserva Seletion Especial: Fruity and earthy at the same time with an exuberant bead and a clean finish. Without question, the best $20 sparkler in the market – except that, it only costs $7. Best, Jim

Nine days in wine country during crush makes for a full schedule. I’m pleased to have been able to help prune, de-leaf, pick, sort, de-stem, cold soak, inoculate, punch down, pump over and, of course, taste. Along with lessons about a little chemistry and a great deal of sanitation, I have a lot to think about. Mix in time spent in vineyards, tasting rooms, labs, great restaurants, friend’s homes, custom crush facilities, airports, and, getting to and from all of the above in north coast traffic, not to mention a bit of jet-lag thrown in; well, sleep is something one does ‘later.’ But here are few comments and brief tasting notes before I nap: I’d like to spend a lot of time looking over the shoulder of Andy Smith, winemaker for DuMol. He is a sanitation fanatic, very detail oriented and as talented as anyone in the area. And his wines are some of the best domestic wines I have tasted – especially the chardonnay sourced, in part, from both the Ritchie and Dutton vineyards. There are a good number of bottles of Les Clos that don’t come close. Speaking of chardonnay, Mark Aubert’s, Ritchie Vineyard model was pretty good. Not on par with the DuMol, but a tasty drop (thankfully, someone else was paying). Cool climate syrah seems to be in ascendancy as a number of existing and new wineries take a shot at making a wine that even I might like. I think that the 2005 vintage will bring a fair number of 13.5%, no new wood wines to retail shelves and mailing lists. I can’t wait to try them; especially after so many 14.5% and up syrahs that have recently arrived in my glass (in the interest of science only, I assure you). I hear the rents are being tripled on the square in Healdsburg which surely bodes poorly for the diverse shopping and eclectic feel of the place. But Bistro Ralph is still turning out fine food in a nice room with some of the friendliest service in town. Get it while you can; times are changing. The Fig Café in Glen Ellen is still one of my favorites and the Underwood Bar and Bistro in Graton would likely become my weekly haunt were I a resident of the locale. ‘Finest kind. I have a new respect for the Latino pickers who handle most harvesting. The one’s I worked with were amazingly quick and have endurance I can only hope for. In addition, there was a friendly competition among them that was contagious. I really enjoyed trying to keep up. Land is still too expensive for me and I’m not sure I can work that hard on any regular basis, but wine country still keeps calling me back. ‘Very, very nice to have friends there that will accommodate an old man turned dreamer. Sincere thanks to Russell and Victoria, and to all of you who made my trip such a delight. And now, to bed. Best, Jim

2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées VV: While sitting around with friends, the fanciful question, ‘which wine do you most enjoy drinking’ came up. Of course, the question is couched in purely subjective terms; it asks only one’s personal favorite. And, fortunately, I could open one of these and show them much more than any imagined preference. If there is any other wine that shows this well and captures so much of what I love about wine, I would dearly like to know its name. Certainly, this will age but I know that every bottle I open (at least up ‘til now) will be so thoroughly delicious that it will be very difficult to reach for anything else. Clear as spring water; a pure, beautifully etched nose and palate with depth, texture, complex flavors and great balance. ‘Goes with almost anything. My desert island wine . . . 2004 Martinsancho, Rueda: Ángel Rodríguez does it all, except the harvesting. He uses only methods handed down for generations in his family, is uniquely in touch with his land and remains utterly untouched by modern techniques. This is verdejo as few others can produce. Very aromatic and deeply flavorful with peach, white pepper and ripe apple notes; lively and complex at the same time; a bone dry but endless finish; outstanding concentration and balance. World class. The man is a legend, as is his wine. 2002 Dom. de la Sansonnière (Marc Angeli), Anjou La Lune: An odd, almost matte color – a sort of burnished copper, as though someone had just cleaned a very old copper pot; sweet pineapple, mineral aromatics with hints of cherry, quince and hay, very fresh smelling; remarkably integrated palate with flavors that echo the nose and add notes of black pepper and stone; long, balanced, smooth and beguiling finish. Ethereal juice and distinctive chenin. Several years ago I received a bottle of this wine (an earlier vintage) as a gift from a friend; I had never heard of it and was only learning about the Loire. I have not forgotten either that wine or the generosity of that man. Thanks Nick. Best, Jim

2003 Baroncini, Orvietto Classico Libra: Acidic and thin, lacks charm; best used for cooking. 2002 Mestizaje, Bobal Young Vineyard: Too much American oak distracts from rich, textured, and very interesting dark fruit flavors; although I doubt it will happen, should the oak ever integrate, this will be something. 1999 Diochon, Molin-à-Vent: As with every other bottle I have had, this has depth, nuance, character and bright fruit – Bravo! 1999 F. Chidane, Montlouis Les Choisillas: Clean, razor sharp Chenin with good depth, structure and concentration; racy lemon/apple flavors and smells with an overlay of flowers and balsam; endless finish. Damn good wine. Thanks Larry. 2000 Jadot, Moulin-à-Vent Chateau des Jacques: Deeply aromatic, richly textured, powerfully flavored, expressive, character driven, and perfectly balanced; about as good as any Beaujolais can be and a fine example of a world class wine. Will last. On the second day, this got huge; very powerful in the mouth showing youth and structure; day one times five. This is one of those very few wines that “youngs up” with a day in the decanter. (Aside: I have tried this wine repeatedly from the 1998 vintage through 2002 and I have decided that, whenever I see it, I will buy a case [or more] immediately. There is a reason Jadot shows this wine after its grand cru Burgundies when one is tasting at the winery – reliably top shelf, every vintage. And built to last for many years.) Best, Jim

2004 H. Beaulieu, Coteaux du Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet: Made from the ancient picpoul (a/k/a piquepoul) grape, it is a clean, lemony, acidic white wine that reminds of the still wines produced in Catalan from the parellada grape (also, one of the grapes used in Cava); lightweight, mineral accents, no wood and a mouthwatering finish. Not complex and not for drinking without food; still, with squash soup and a green salad, it’s appealing. Cheap too, at under $10. 2004 Raymond Quenard, Vin de Savoie Chignin: The label reports that this wine is made from the mondeuse (noire) grape and is 12% alcohol. High toned aromatics similar to Loire gamay with face powder, herb and red fruit aromas; medium weight with a dusty texture, angular red fruit flavors with an herbaceous accent, bright acidity, decent concentration and good persistence. A bright, lightweight delivery with some complexity. This grape is also known as refosco in Italy (Friuli, mostly) and a recent example I tasted (2000 Ronchi di Nimis di Giovanni Dri, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Refosco) had more weight and character with a smoother texture. ‘Anyone predict how this Quenard will age? 1996 Thierry Allemand, Cornas Reynard: Fully ripe, gutsy syrah nose with hints of olive and charcoal smoke, fleeting red fruit accents, complex and enticing; medium body, nuances of earth, olive and salt pork overlay cool climate (yet ripe) syrah flavors – all well integrated and smoothly textured, concentrated, intense, balanced and persistent. The structure is in the background but it adds to the wine with brightness, texture and a bone dry impression. More expressive, masculine and intense than a recent 1996 Chave, Hermitage rouge, but less refined and precise. Great, great wine with years ahead of it. 1999 Doichon, Moulin-á-Vent: Smooth, delicious and richer than the above mondeuse; good concentration, complexity and balance. Just a terrific wine. Best, Jim

A tip of the cap to Lyle Fass for these suggestions: 2004 Terres Dorées (J.P. Brun), Fleurie: Charming raspberry and floral nose; structured and not yet integrated on the palate with flavors that show red fruit and spice, good concentration and balance with the beginnings of a very pretty texture; medium length finish. 12% alcohol and, given a year or so, clearly one of those “go to” wines in my cellar. ‘Best of all, so utterly Fleurie as to be unmistakable. 2004 Ottaviano Lambruschi, Colli di Luni Costa Marina: Made from 30 year old vines of 100% hand harvested vermentino that never sees wood, 13.5% alcohol from the Liguria region of Italy (I also recently tasted a vermentino from Sardinia and, although it was good, it was not in the same league as this one). Above all else, the impression this wine leaves is that of freshness. It is complex on both the nose and palate with just picked green chilies, apples, peaches, fresh cut herbs and floral scents and flavors, very concentrated and focused, bright acidity, a satin texture and a finish that lasts and lasts. Also, on the finish there is a combined note of citron and fresh green chili (not the heat, just the chili flavor). I don’t think (but don’t know) this is made for long or even medium term cellaring but it is a world class wine and one of the most distinctive whites I have tried. Superb! Best, Jim

As Deon would say, both. I like a very eclectic cellar. Best, Jim

Mary and Gordon, 1992 Alain Voge Cornas Vielles Vignes - - as good as it gets. I always find Cornas distinctive on both the nose and palate but sometimes that character can obscure or detract from the fruit; this wine had both while still being balanced and complex. It did not fall off even a little over the hour or so it was open and was ready from the moment the cork was pulled. It may go longer in the cellar but I don't see the need. Killer wine. 1999 Domaine Raveneau Montee de Tonnere Chablis - consisitent with your previous notes? -thinner than previous but still a fine rendition of Chablis; drink now. 1996 Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge - how close? -As good as it was, I will have a tough time keeping my hands of the bottles I have. But I have a predeliction to drinking Chave rouge younger than many people I know - I base that upon drinking a few older ones and finding them less pleasing to my palate than newer versions. Hence, you may want to adjust any assessment accordingly. 1927 Alvear Px Solera - I just purchased a case and find it a bargain but sweet (almost cloying) by itself -Agreed. Not something I want any more of as, even with cheese, I thought it cloying. 1998 Domaine Pegau Cuvee Lawrence? At first I thought it was California syrah (say Lagier Meredith or similar mountain producer) with its chocolate texture and big fruit. But it became somewhat more refined with time (relatively speaking, it is immensely concentrated). Not a wine I would pay the price for but a wine of considerable impression. 1997-98 Sean Thackery? -I don't think I have had a single Orion that was ready to drink save the 1989 (notice the corked mag. of '89? 'Shame.) And frankly, I am not a fan of the style until it has considerable age and soaks up the wood. These were not my favs. but certainly were enjoyed by the majority. 1992 Santa Cruz Mountains Vineyard, Duriff, alc 12.5% (84% Duriff (petite syrah), 8% Merlot, 8% Chardonnay) -Odd, tannic, disjointed but not without merit. A curiosity; no more. 2000 Siduri Arbre Vert Pinot Noir, alc 13.8% -Maybe the best Siduri pinot ever and certainly the best from Oregon. But then, its only 13.8% alcohol so Adam wouldn't like it I thought it excellent. 1997 Sean Thackery Orion Old Vines, alc 13.9% -as above and how was the Ohio chardonnay? Clean, unoaked, reasonably crisp and otherwise, forgettable (although, it gives me reason to hope). Best, Jim

The following is a list of wines tasted over a recent weekend. I did not take individual notes but if anyone has questions, I will probably retain my impressions for a couple days so ask soon. Some wines, however, deserve brief comments. Wednesday: 1983 Bouchard et Fils Beaujolais Villages 2000 Capcanes Cabrida 1993 Noel Verset Cornas 1965 Krohn Colheita Porto, alc 21.5% The joys of 22 year old Beaujolais are fleeting but not to be missed; for about twenty minutes, it was something. Thursday: 1999 Nigl Sauvignon Blanc, alc 12.5% 1998 Valentini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, alc 12.5% 1999 Max Ferdinand Richter Riesling Brut Mulheimer Sonnenlay, alc 12% (sparkling) 1992 Alain Voge Cornas Vielles Vignes, alc 12.5% 1995 Mommesin Clos de Tart, alc 13.5% 1999 E. Guigal Lieu Dit Saint Joseph, alc 13% 2000 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Pinot Rouge, alc 12.5% 2001 Domaine Durieu Chateauneuf du Pape, alc 14.5% Nigl’s sauvignon might bring me back to the variety; combining the gassy, citrus and melon aspects of the grape in a fresh and juicy package with good structure and complexity. My first Valentini but not my last; idiosyncratic and right up my alley. The Clos de Tart had a magical nose and Voge VV was about as good as Cornas gets. Friday: 1995 Markko Reserve Chadonnay Conneaut Ohio, alc 11% 2001 Les Brugueres La Conreria d’Scala Dei (Priorat) alc 14% 2003 Domaine Labbe Marc et Roger Abymes Vin de Savoie, alc 11% 2002 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis 1988 Clemente e Roberto Franceschi Il Poggione Brunello de Montalcino, alc 13.5% 1997 Argiolas Turriga Isola dei Nuraghi, alc 12.5% 1994 Argiolas Turriga Isola dei Nuraghi 2001 Jorge Noble Moreira Poeira, alc 13% (Portugal) 1995 Seghesio La Villa Barolo, alc 13.9%’ 1996 Castello Banfi Summus, alc 13% 1999 Colli Orientali de Fruli, Petrussa, alc 13% 1997 Russiz Superiore Collio Russo Riserva degli Orzoni, alc 13.5% 1990 Tenuta Caretta Barolo, alc 13.5% 2001 Cantina Sociale Vermintino di Gallina Piras, alc 12% 1999 Monchiero Rocche Barolo, alc 14% 1993 Villa Caffagio Cortaccio, alc 13% 2004 Masi Masiano Pinot Grigio and Verdizzo, alc 13% 1992 Santa Cruz Mountains Vineyard, Duriff, alc 12.5% (84% Duriff (petite syrah), 8% Merlot, 8% Chardonnay) 2002 Ghislane Barthod Bourgogne, Les Bons Batons, alc 12.5% 1998 Chapoutier Vin de Paille, alc 15% 2001 Anselmi I Capitelli, alc 12.5% 1997 Bussola Amarone della Valpollicella Classico TB, alc 16% I would be happy to drink the ’88 Brunello any time; wonderfully feminine and balanced. Saturday: 1996 Michel Gendrier Cour Cheverny Cuvee Francois 1er Romartin VV, alc 12% 1996 Franz Hirtzberger Singerriedel Smaragd, alc 13% 1991 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, alc 13% 1989 Orion in magnum, alc 13.4% (corked) 1989 Michel Ogier Cote Rotie, alc 12% 1999 Domaine Raveneau Montee de Tonnere Chablis, alc 13% 1991 Domaine Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage, alc 12.5% (corked) 1999 Eric Texier Hermitage, alc 13% 1995 Bollinger Ay Rouge La Cote aux Enfants Coteaux Champenois, (still red wine), alc 11.5% 1995 Jean & Jean-Louis Trapet Chambertin, alc 13.5% 1996 Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge, alc 13% 1988 Cos d’Estournal, 13% alc 13% 1988 Leoville las Cases, alc 13% 1989 Joseph Drouhin Clos de la Roche, alc 13% 2004 Selene Hyde Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, alc 14% 2001 Gundlach Bundshu Cabernet Sauvignon Rhinefarm Ranch 1998 Domaine Pegau Cuvee Lawrence, alc 14.5% 2001 Chateau Fortia Cuvee du Baron Chateauneuf du Pape, alc 14.% 2004 Weingut Rosenau Rosenauer Sauvignon Blanc, (Switzerland), alc 12.1% 2000 Siduri Arbre Vert Pinot Noir, alc 13.8% 1989 Aigle Blanc, Prince Ponsatowski, Vin de Tris, alc 12% 1997 Sean Thackery Orion Old Vines, alc 13.9% 2002 Chateau de Villeneuve Samur (Blanc) , alc 13% 1992 Vigne Arborine, Elio Altare, alc 13.5% 2002 Equilibrio (E.Q.) Syrah, Do San Antonio, Valle do Rosario, Chile, alc 14% 2001 Cayuse Callouix Vineyard Walla Walla Valley, WA, alc 14.5% 1989 Clos du Bois Marlstone (61% CS, 26% Merlot, 13% Malbec), alc 13% 1999 Panther Creek Pinot Noir Bednarik Vineyard, alc 13% 1959 Bourillon d’Orleans Vouvray Molleux, alc 12% 2001 Sessantarini Primitivo de Mandurua, old vines, alc 14.5% 1974 Ridge York Creek Petite Syrah, alc 13.9% 1927 Alvear Px Solera, alc 16% 2002 Grifo Malvesia, alc 15% 1996 Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee Les Beaune Monts, alc 13% 1995 Daniel Rion Nuits Saint Georges Vielles Vignes, alc 13% 1995 Domaine Fourier Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru Vielles Vignes, alc 14% The Cour-Cheverny was another idiosyncratic and complex wine that I enjoyed; the Singerriedel took awhile but, once open, was knocking on great and, the Dunn was really good despite being opened about twenty years too early. The 96 Chave is close to perfect now, the Bollinger still wine was a delight, and the Fourier was surprisingly quiet. The Malvesia was charming. Sunday: 1995 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc, 1lc 13% 1996 Clos Marie Les Glorieuses, Pic Saint Loup, alc 14% 1995 Michel Ogier Cote-Rotie, alc 12% 1996 Torii-Mor, White Rose Vineyard Pinot Noir, alc 13% 1998 Araujo Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, alc 13.8% 1965 Krohn Colheita Porto, alc 21.5% (Bottled in 2003) 1994 Churchill Porto, Vintage Port, alc 20% 2001 Epiphany Revelation Red Wine, alc 16.9% 1998 Vincent Arroyo Greenwood Ranch Petite Sirah, alc 14.% 1998 Sean Thackery Orion Old Vines, alc 14.3% The Torii-Mor was truly complex and delicious, the Chave Blanc sang once aired out, and, the Ogier was better than mother’s milk. A small forest was sacrificed for the Araujo and Arroyo; blah. Best, Jim

The first three were with dinner at a couple's house whom we had just met. I did not make food notes due to social constraints. We were four. The second three were at Mark's house with him cooking for Diane and me. The boy (CIA trained, owns his own high-end restaurant) can cook! Best, Jim ← His restaurant is the Louisiana Purchase in Banner Elk, NC, 828-898-5656. I brought the Volnay last night but the wine list at the 'Purchase' is second to none in western NC. As a matter of fact, the first time I went into the place, I probably spent half and hour just reading the list. Mark is very wine savvy and travels extensively to find the new and different. He's also been at this long enough that he gets first choice with the local distributors. If you ever get to the NC high country/ski area, you have to eat and drink at Mark's. Best, Jim

The first three were with dinner at a couple's house whom we had just met. I did not make food notes due to social constraints. We were four. The second three were at Mark's house with him cooking for Diane and me. The boy (CIA trained, owns his own high-end restaurant) can cook! Best, Jim

1998 Salomon, Grüner Veltliner Reserve: A spring garden of aromatics, a medium weight, ripe and juicy mouthful of fruit and a lovely, clean finish. Very well made and varietally correct with precise balance throughout. This producer is quite dependable. 1999 Pesquera, Ribero del Duero: To me, Ribero wines often smell and taste older than they are and this one fits that mold; bright aromatics, reminiscent of the southern Rhone, that have nuance and some bottle bouquet (and a little too much oak) with a similar flavor profile and good sustain, albeit a bit drying at the very end. A lighter hand with the wood would make me happier. 2001 Copain, Syrah Cailloux & Coccinelle: Smells like Clape, Cornas in a very warm year; has those kinds of nuances in the mouth but also delivers lush, deep fruit with good balance and persistence. Will last but is delicious now. Once again this producer impresses. Dinner with Mark: With a salad of English cucumber, white anchovy and roasted tomatoes: 1995 Zind-Humbrecht, Riesling Clos Windsbuhl: An odd wine with a gewertz. nose and seemingly VT sweetness but the mouth shows bone dry; absolutely the right choice with the dish and absolutely weird in its absence. With pasta with sautéed chanterelles: 1999 Dom. Michel Lafarge, Volnay Vendages Sélectionnées: Purity, focus and unequaled clarity; not big, not powerful, not blow the doors down; just an exceptional rendition of Volnay that can’t be replicated – killer wine and beyond description with the dish. With sautéed halibut on a vegetable compote with beurre blanc: 1998 La Spinetta, Barbaresco Vigneto Gallina: There was a moment when I swallowed a mouthful that was all that Barbaresco can be – wonderful depth, nuance and harmony against that rustic background of earth and tannin – but it only happened once and the rest of the time this showed wood to the exclusion of fruit. Maybe in ten or twenty years folks will be falling all over themselves when tasting this wine but, today, I’d rather have a Giacosa, Nebbiolo D’Alba Valmaggiore a hundred times over. Best, Jim

2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées VV: Wonderful with Diane’s squash risotto cakes; some of the acidity has tamed since release; the flavors now have more depth and the texture is smoother and more viscous, still bright, intense and clean all the way through a long, taut finish. A wine it is not possible to have too much of. 1999 Clos Rougeard, Saumur Champigny Les Poyeux: Impression: Take one bottle of good cabernet franc, add one cup sugar, four ounces vanilla, two chopped green bell peppers and one hundred brandied oak chips; wait three days. Strain. ‘Pretty close. Opinion: Pathetic. Pathetic for its smell and taste; its absurd price, and, worst of all, what could have been? 2001 Jorge Nobre Moreira, Poeira: Soft without being flabby, smooth without seeming manipulated, interestingly complex and ripe fruit flavors; a very nice table wine made from the five port grapes. Delicious. Best, Jim

1999 Gilles-Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Alberic Bouvet: A faint whiff of brett blows off and the nose becomes expansive and complex; elegant across the palate but with no lack of concentration, worsted texture, excellent complexity, nice balance; medium length finish. After a brief closed phase (acidic) this is reopening to a more complex profile with an unsweetened chocolate texture. Shows well now, has lots of life left. 2002 Dom. Les Fines Graves (Janodet), Moulin à Vent: Dark fruit nose with mineral and floral aspects; weightless in the mouth but showing plenty of intensity, some complexity and a deep down earthy streak on the palate; medium finish. ‘Structure to go for several years but very nice, if a touch closed, now. 2001 Bruno Giacosa, Nebbiolo D’Alba Valmaggiore di Vezza D’Alba: The cork smelled better than most wines; the color is transparent and, when poured, this looks like very old Burgundy; a glorious nose of dust, roses, potting soil, cherries, and dried spices – I wish they made cologne that smelled like this; the weight and viscosity of fine, old Burgundy in the mouth but with an enchanting interplay of cherry, tartness, dust, tannin, tar and soil flavors that are all so perfectly balanced it is hard to pick out anything individually; long, tannic (but not drying) finish. Two thoughts: -Have you ever been to rural Italy? I remember it as relaxed – almost sleepy, more concerned with food than world affairs, sunny, fresh smelling, with incredibly old buildings and warm, pleasant people. To this day, I ask myself why I do not live there. -Art is hard to define but it is always evocative. It takes me beyond my ’self’ and allows me (perhaps, even forces me) to see, hear, smell, taste, perceive in a different way. This bottle is the confluence of these two thoughts. It is . . . wonderful. Best, Jim

1995 Camus-Bruchon, Savigny-Narbantons: Restrained nose with slight volatility, mostly of red fruit and truffled earth tones; quiet but pure and ripe red fruit in the mouth with lovely earthy nuances, good balance and that sort of integration that is only borne of ten years in bottle; medium length, slightly tannic finish. Elegant wine with finesse; a fleeting smile, a well-turned calf, composed femininity – Audrey Hepburn style. Sigh . . . 1999 Alzinger, Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg: Alpine meadow (wildflowers included) with unripe pineapple and river stones on the nose; amazing cut on the palate with similar flavors, good concentration and balance; very long, acidic finish. A wine with a spine. Not at peak but, served closer to room temp., this wine starts to sing. Better in five years; delicious now as accompaniment to pasta with winter squash, caramelized onions and feta. 2000 J.J. Cristoffel, Riesling Kabinett Ürziger Würzgarten: Utterly sublime with the Thai curry-scallop dish we had for dinner. Lovely aromatics with quite a bit of mineral; the same on the palate where the weight and intensity are paired against the dish so precisely that one never out does the other and each are better for the match; semi-sweet finish that tempers the curry spice. Alone, it’s a nice wine; with this dish, it is the best wine in the world. 1995 Carneros Creek, Pinot Noir Signature Reserve, 25th Anniversary: Very complex and soft nose with warm earth, truffle, black cherry and spice tones; bright and integrated on the palate with flavors that echo the nose, resolved structure and good balance; medium length finish. Enough cut to do well against grilled salmon and enough smoothness to stand alone. A very nice pinot and, at ten years of age, mellow and delicious. (Wine is about many things; with me it is about the people. I’ll not forget the day in 1998, that I bought this bottle and the people that shared that week with me in wine country; thanks always to Russell and Victoria, Bree and 9-ball, Double J, Yoda and the girls, Tim and Lisa, Judson my brotha’, Paully, Jim and Diane, Greg and all those people who have sat shotgun on ‘the ride.’) Best, Jim

Very humbling. FWIW, I am told by one much smarter than I, that a wise man makes the most of what comes and the least of what goes. In times like these, perhaps such a man is both wise and strong. Think good thoughts . . . Best, Jim

Jim, My only real beef with Ponsot are their marketing practices. I have come to expect that, on any given day with any given bottle, variation is the norm. Fortunately, there's guys like Claude, et al, who get to taste them all and can pick-out the ones that have promise. I can't afford the entrance fee. That said, some of the finest bottles of pinot I have ever tasted have come from this house; I still remember the widely panned 1995 Griottes and the widely hyped 1999 Clos de la Roche - both outstanding wines. Just as the 1996 Chambertin was garbage. The vaguaries of Burgundy; why, oh why, did I ever let them set the hook! Best, Jim

2000 Huet, Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg (375): Somewhat closed on both the nose and palate but opened more than I would have expected over the course of lunch; mineral driven, complex and bone dry but with both viscosity and depth, this is a wine that will only get better with time – and that is saying something because it is arresting now. Enjoyed with slices of rosemary-olive bread, EVOO, aged rosemary-coated pecorino and paper thin slices of cappa cola. Very, very good with the food. NV Marques de Monistrol, Cava Brut Reserva Selection Especial: Accompanying macerated nectarines with prosciutto, EVOO and fresh mint, the absolute best. Wonderful clean and earthy aromatics; an exuberant bead with bright flavors, and a clean, crisp finish; stellar wine with or without this dish and better still, $6.50 full retail. The ultimate no-brainer. 2003 Colonnara, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Lyricus: That’s a lot of words to say delicious; citrus, clover, dried vanilla bean and untoasted nuts on the nose with similar flavors, fabulous cut, a somewhat bitter note, good balance, and, a long finish that seems to reprise the herbal tones. More complexity than one has a right to expect from a $6 wine (on sale) and really excellent accompaniment to a lunch salad with olive-rosemary bread bruschetta. 12.5% alcohol and not the slightest hint that the vintage might be hot or atypical. I have no idea what this could develop into with time in the cellar and, unfortunately, I won’t be finding out; ‘darn good now. The following wines were opened for all to pour as they pleased during dinner, which consisted of Caesar salad, duck leg and thigh confit, fingerling potatoes, and haricot verts: 1998 Beaucastel, CdP: Quite sweet (fruit, not sugar) on both the nose and palate with limited complexity, no funk, bright fruit and good balance. (No sign of brett.) On the way up. 1999 Giacosa, Barbaresco D.O.C.: Yummy and really elegant; balanced and classic Barbaresco and the tannic bite at the end is only noticeable after the bottle was open an hour or so. Perfect with the duck. 1997 Argiano, Brunello di Montalcino: Magnificent; deep, complex, wonderfully integrated, satin texture and great length. It’s been a very long time since I had a Brunello that showed this well and that I could immediately identify as such. Superb. Another time, a blind tasting of pinot noirs chosen at random and brought by the tasters: 2003 Wallace Brook (OR): Tart but a certain softness to the fruit, crisp finish. 2002 Benton Lane (OR): Good cut, slightly oxidized and fairly elegant (maybe a touch of brett). 2002 Westry (OR): Raspberry, slightly oaky, young and crisp. 1998 Hamacher (OR): Earthy, mineral tones, obviously older than the first three, a bit brittle but still has some length. 2001 Fiddlehead Cellars, Lollapalooza (CA): Oaky, dark, very tannic and young – not my style. 2004 Castle Rock Res. (CA): Watermelon, strawberry Sweet-tart smell and flavors, thin (and this despite 14.5% alcohol). 1992 Ponsot, Clos de la Roche VV (FR): Possibly damaged along the way but still carrying some feral/earthy aromatics, good weight and texture and fair length. Each of these, save for the Ponsot, smelled and tasted so similar when first opened, I thought someone was trying to fool us by pouring the same wine. However, over the course of about two hours, each revealed its own differences. None of these were head and shoulders better and only the Fiddlehead was, after a time, beyond my enjoyment. I dislike blind tastings, and this one emphasized the point. Their value diminishes as I become more confident that I will judge a wine by what’s in the glass and not what’s on the label. For me, the most important thing about any wine (after it being sound) is that it has an “address.” And I much prefer to taste with an understanding of where it came from and if it comes close to reflecting that place. (I do not fancy myself the super-human identification talents of James Bond – “ah, the Bollinger 59; I prefer the ’61.”) This works for me because I am not attempting to judge which is “better” – as I say, after the fact that it is sound, I don’t care much about that. Rather, I want to know if the wine is representative of its place and, sometimes, its maker. There are exceptions; some wines are so wonderful one doesn’t care, but I have found very few of those and I seem to be finding fewer and fewer the longer I enjoy this hobby. ‘Lots of good arguments for blind tastings; I have heard most. I am not persuaded. Of course, that fact won’t stop me from attending such tastings; where they are pouring wine, I am home. Best, Jim

Brad is a prude. Best, Jim

The quick answer to your question is serve any of the whites you like with the first two courses and any of the reds you like with the second two. But if your new boss fancies himself a bit of a wine geek, why not buy four or five bottles of things you like and then let him choose. You both win that way and, anything you don't drink will serve you well another day. Best, Jim

1999 Trimbach, Riesling Clos St. Hune: A concerto; initially, all about acid and cut with delicate notes of fruit – soon followed by an elegant but powerful burst of flavors that never leave their acidic brightness behind but find a presence and refinement that is far from the usual – lastly, expansive aromas take over the nose and deeply etched flavors emerge on the palate. Here is a complete (albeit, as yet unfinished) symphony in bottle and it is structured beyond any fine riesling I can remember. Hold. 2004 Pepiere, Muscadet: To continue the analogy, this wine is the etude; bright, flavorful, aromatic and full of joyous melody – a delight to the senses and proof positive that the wine gods love us. Drink! 2000 Masciarelli, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo: A bit too much wood for this taster but still, a concentrated, powerfully built sangiovese with pleasant aromatics, good depth and a medium length finish. Better than some; worse than others. 1996 Pertinace, Langhe: 70% nebbiolo, 15% barbera, 15% cabernet sauvignon; sort of simple on the nose but without wood or manipulated notes; more integration in the mouth and solid flavors that are too young to discern any real nuance; a medium length, flavorful finish. A wine with a promise; I’m just not sure I trust it yet. Needs time. 2002 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vielles Vignes: Structured and sappy, this wine is surely worthy of its “old vine” designation; it’s ripe with a worsted texture, deep concentration and a persistence that belies any opinion about Brouilly being a ‘lesser’ cru. A wine of both power and finesse; I’m so happy to have a number of bottles in the cellar. Excellent now; even better in the future. Best, Jim

2002 Tempier, Bandol Rosé: A point, wonderfully layered, juicy, fresh and delicious. Of all the wines noted here, the one most perfectly ready. (And if this is supposed to be a poor vintage in the area, I should just buy a case of this wine every year and be done with it.) 2002 Cazin, Cour-Cheverny Cuveé Renaissance: Certainly will do with extended cellaring but lovely now with a sec-tendre sweetness to the fruit and great zing to the acidity. Opened attractively over the course of the bottle. 1965 Dom. Bourillon D’Orleans, Vouvray Demi-sec: Past maturity and starting to thin but still clean, lightly sweet and fairly persistent. 1997 Verset, Cornas: Lots of olive tones with ashtray, fruit and dirt aromas; great fruit that is still somewhat undeveloped but it is certainly ripe and balanced; long, slightly drying finish. So absolutely Cornas that I could not help but smile at first sniffage. Distinctive. 2000 Dom. Jadot, Moulin-à-Vent Chateau des Jacques: Charming aromatics with good concentration, nice depth and some complexity in a medium-weight package; good length. Very nice and, although it will last, excellent now. 2004 Pepiere, Muscadet: So crisp and fresh that another Muscadet we tasted (I did not get the name) paled by comparison. I haven’t tried the ’04 Briords yet but I am looking forward to it. 1983 Chave, Hermitage Rouge: This bottle was only just past prime but, oh, so lovely with tea-smoked duck breast. Complex, enduring wine. 1990 Nikolaihof, Riesling Vinotek: A bit closed on the nose but alive on the palate with flavors zooming around in all directions in the mouth and laser-like acidity. An arresting mouthful of wine. 1998 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Wahle Vnyd.: The best Wahle Vnyd. wine I have had from this producer with a good deal of earthy/soil flavors and textures balanced against solid red and black fruit. And a lot longer in the mouth than expected. ‘Will last. 2003 Dom. Dalicieux, Beaujolais Blanc: Crisper than expected without hint of wood or manipulation; not on a Chablis level but certainly appealing chardonnay. 2001 F.X. Pichler, Riesling ”M”: ‘Has slimmed down since release with good focus and clarity where there used to be almost steroidal tropicality; very long and very good. A juvenile but a graceful one. 1998 Salomon, Gruner Veltliner Reserve Undhof Wieden: Also a teenager but an expressive one that may very well grow-up to be a virtuoso. So lip-smackingly delicious in the mouth. ‘Will keep nicely. 1830 Alvear, P. X. Dolce muy Viejo: (Open four months, recorked and left in the cellar) Indulgent sweetness, powerful aromatics, incredible spice and the texture of 50 weight motor oil. Glass staining; a little goes a long way. Best, Jim