Florida Jim

From someone who drinks a lot of Soave, I have no answer for your question. But I do think you're right about leaving the high-end cuvees on the shelf; especially with Inama who likes wood for the pricier stuff. Others worth a try are: Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino Pieropan, Calvarino and their low-end Soave Classico Tamellini, Anguane. A lot of people like Gini but they have never given me that extra something that the above wines do. Best, Jim

With burgers: 2004 Quenard, Vin de Savoie Chignin: This was so much better with air – I will decant every bottle of this from now on; smelled like a cross between gamay and cabernet franc; was ripe, mid-weight and clean in the mouth and finished with pretty red fruit and stone flavors. Really good accompaniment. With pasta with caramelized onions and olives: 2004 Bodega Mustiguillo, Mestizaje: This is a young vines cuvee that although a blend, emphasizes the bobal grape; rich and chocolaty, good depth and concentration, no lack of acid, precise balance, extremely fine tannins and no overt wood; the texture reminded me of very high-end CA cabernet but without all the oak and manipulation; a big mouthful of wine but not heavy, cloying or laced with RS; long, smooth finish. So much more impressive than the 2003 version of this wine; this bodega (est. 1999 and family owned) in Valencia, Spain, seems poised to do great things. Their top wine (Quincha Corral) has always been too heavily wooded for me but, considering the fine hand with the Mestizaje, this vintage may be worth trying. BTW, the blend here includes cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, granacha and tempranillo, as well as bobal. Excellent with the dish. And, it’s only about $12! With saffron risotto: 2003 Dumol, Chardonnay chloe Vineyard: Immensely frustrating wine; such intense and delicious fruit hidden behind all that butterscotch oak. The fruit comes from the Ritchie and Dutton vineyards, both cool-climate plots, and it provides a wonderful core and depth – but the winemaker should be horse-whipped – he has snatched defeat from the jaws of victory. What a shame. Fair with the dish. Best, Jim

I like dishes that have coconut in them, some curries and sauced fish dishes. Best, Jim

2002 Tamellini, Soave Classico Anguane: A spherical wine, combining all of its scents, flavors, nuances and structural elements to form a whole greater than the sum of its parts; really quite something with antipasto. 1995 Chateau-Figeac, St. Émilion: Merlot, done right; soft but substantial across the palate, with light herbal notes, a worsted texture and plenty of ripe fruit that is held in check by a fine grained structure. As wonderfully balanced and complete as the foregoing wine but in a wholly different and more masculine way. Excellent juice in no danger of diminishing. Thanks Sam. 2002 Angeli, Anjou Blanc La Lune: Copper colored; somewhat closed on the nose but alive and well on the palate with excellent chenin flavors and good character; plus a long, balanced finish. Good wine to be drunk soon – or such is my impression. 2002 La Chablisienne, Chablis Cuvée LC: Good, solid Chablis that will never be profound but is somewhat rich and pure, shows no wood and is balanced. Drink over the next year. 2001 Pinoso, Laderas de El Sequé: A very nice Alicante that has a firmer structure and more complexity than the 2003 version, which I also like a lot. I think I would cellar this another year or so and drink the 2003. 2004 Terres Dorees (Brun), Fleurie: With a slight chill (cellar temp.) this is even better – and that is saying something. I wish I have cases of this left instead of just a few bottles. Charming, juicy, life-affirming juice. Best, Jim

There is no "right way" to learn more. But in your case, I would establish a relationship with Chambers Street Wines (on Chambers Street) and talk to Jamie Wolfe and David Lille, proprietors there. These guys are perhaps as good a source as you will ever find and the fact that they share the island with you is a good thing. There are also lots of reading materials, tastings to attend, reviews to read and on-line forums to sort through - but a good, honest retailer, that can discern both your tastes and your price point, is worth his weight in gold. You have two, at your disposal. 212-227-1434 Tell them Jim Cowan sent you. Although I have no affiliation or financial interest in the store, I am a good customer. Best, Jim

With a ragu of white beans, chicken sausage and spinach: 1998 Salomon, Grüner Veltliner Reserve: A varietally correct, clean, focused wine with just the slightest hint of oxidation; maybe it was just this bottle but my inclination is that it is time to drink this up. With salad nicoise: 2005 Terres Dorees (Brun), Beaujolais Nouveau: God bless Jean Paul Brun; simply wonderful. Dinner with friends: With grilled pork chops, celery gratin and chanterelle risotto: 2001 Bruno Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: Excellent, authentic nebbiolo after three hours in the decanter; before that, a bit tannic, and, 2002 Maligny, Chablis: Really nice Chablis that is character driven, texturally viscous and lasts longer than expected on the palate, and, 2004 Álvaro Castro, Dão Vino Tinto: Simple wine yet of its place, moderately complex and interesting; a pleasant and inexpensive way to accent the meal. Leftovers night: First; some manchego cheese with a few almonds and a slice of freshly baked olive bread: 2001 Schumann Nägler, Riesling Kabinett Johannisberger Erntebringer: Nearly dry, very clean and pure, with good Rheingau character and a dandy finish. Second; Diane took oven roasted potatoes, caramelized onions, chicken and fresh picked green peas and combined them with wine butter (truly a lovely use of leftovers) 2002 Maréchal, Bourgogne Cuvée Gravel: An equally lovely wine, all about purity, elegance, cut and focus; needed an hour or so in the decanter to show its best so this probably has a shelf life as well. Perfect with the food. Best, Jim

Assuming any kind of quality to start with and that storage has been consistently cool, the German wines should be interesting and you may even get a dandy or two. The sparklers, both red and white, are properly passed their prime but, one never knows - I suggest popping a few corks rather than immediate discard. Best, Jim

Melissa, Barolo and Barbaresco can be wonderful; unfortunately, they are always pricey. Hence, other red wines from the area are of greater interest to me (and my wallet), such as nebbiolo d'Alba, Gatinera, Carema, Valtellina (although not technically in the Piedmont, still nebbiolo based and close), Roero, etc. I am no fan of docetto or barbera, even in they're "improved" state. One man's meat is another's poison and, for myself, I don't think barrels are making those wines 'better.' Best, Jim

Mea culpa. I'm told Holly's Blend is verdehlo, the grape of Madeira and that Martinsancho is verdjo, the grape of Rueda. I thought them just different spellings (Portuguese vs. Spanish) of the same word. Hence, the comparison. Can someone clear this up? Best, Jim

2004 Marquis Phillips, Holly’s Blend: Mostly verdejo, says the website; and not a bad wine. But is it Martinsancho? Not even remotely in the same league. It starts out clean and crisp when cold but it gets confected fast, soft almost as quickly and eventually muddies out into an over-alcoholic rendition of a grape that Ángel Rodriguez (Martinsancho) has mastered. $12 for this wine or $10 for the real deal; ‘no choice at all. 2002 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Villes Vignes: A remarkable wine that shows its terroir without edging into herbal scents or flavors and still creates high tones that accent the bright, stony, laser-pure, deep and intense black fruit flavors. From vines in excess of 85 years old; one of the most extraordinary and focused red wines I have tasted. Has decades left in the cellar. Oh my! 2004 Pazo de Senorans, Albariño: Half of a bottle put back in the fridge for ten days; still a spicy, gum tree scent and flavor that spreads evenly across the palate and evolves into a spice driven finish. When first opened, delightful; at this stage, damn close. Albariño done right. 2004 Terres Dorees (Brun), Fleurie: Not as strong a showing as the first ten bottles or so but still a fine, balanced Fleurie with miles to go. Time to put these away for awhile, IMO. And that goes for the 2004 Brun, Cote de Brouilly, too. Best, Jim

FWIW, it is a recent creation. Best, Jim

John, If learning is your goal I suggest you drop in on winetherapy.com. You needn't post (unless, of course, you have a death wish) but the amount I have learned on that site from the regulars far exceeds any other source I have available. If you do drop in and want guidance on authors of note, just e-mail me and I'll fill-in the program so you'll know the players. Best, Jim

Mary, I visit Westcoast Wine Net, Wine Therapy, Parker's site, eGullet, Strat's Place (Rogov's site), Winetalk, Joe Belmanti's board and Wine Lover's Discussion Group. If anyone wants links, I'd be pleased to post them. As to the quote about Parker's site; I think its important to look at it from the point of view of someone who is not really into wine, much less a geek about it. Many of the sites I've named could, in all fairness, be accused of such behaviors, when looked at from that perspective. Maybe even this one. Thankfully, I think those behaviors are the exception, regardless of site, not the rule. The kind of knowledge demonstrated by posters on these sites is highly specialized and not something that is wide spread. That can be intimidating for the uninitiated. And of course, its human nature to be skeptical of that which one doesn't understand. Then too, this is writer who knows that someone reading his article may visit one of these sites; its always nice to appear discerning when making such recommendations. Maybe that's a good argument for even the most ardent wine geek to get a grip and keep this hobby in perspective. Afterall, its just grape juice and, at its best, just a nice accompaniment to dinner. Isn't it? Best, Jim

What a nice thing to say. Thanks, Jim

A quick trip to visit friends in Chapel Hill, Highpoint and Greensboro, NC, and a drive through the Blue Ridge as the snow from a big storm melted was a pretty prelude to reopening up our home in Linville, NC. Although we can’t stay long, it’s good to see how the remodel is coming and touch base with good friends in the area. Along the way, a few bottles worth noting: 2000 F.X. Pichler, Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Loibner Frauenweingarten: The more I taste the federspiel wines from top producers, the more I think of them; varietally correct, intense but light in the mouth and perfectly etched. Lovely. 2000 Durand, Cornas: Maybe the Durand brothers reputation is for modern wines – if so, I like modern Cornas. Lots of flesh, backbone and complexity with good ripe fruit, no wood noticeable and a fine grained long, finish. Authentic and excellent. 2001 J. Palacios, Bierzo: Although the higher end cuvee from this house carries the stamp of its barrels, this is all about mencia – a delicious, character-driven grape with medium body and a layered palate. Good stuff. 2002 Cristoffel, Riesling Kabinett Ürzinger Würtzgarten: Sec-tendre in sweetness, bright fruit on the nose and palate and a wine that is fun to drink. Wheee! 2000 F.X. Pichler, Riesling Smaragd Loibner Oberhaüser: Big-assed wine; engaging from first sip to last and a terrific accompaniment to crab cakes with mustard sauce. 2003 Terres Dorees (Brun), Pinot Noir: Translucent and transcendent; Brun does as good a job with pinot as he does gamay; one of my favorite wines of the trip. (Sorry John, it wasn’t the 04 as I first reported.) 2003 Barthod, Bourgogne: Not up to par; a bit over-ripe and lacking the precision of the 2002 (for example). Not bad but not worth a second buy. 1989 Chat. Beaucastel, CdP: Rock hard on opening and never showed much over several hours. Tight and ungiving at present. 1989 Veaux Telegraph, CdP: Tannic but more open than the foregoing wine; much better with food than without. 1989 Pegau Res., CdP: Generous, resolved, correct and a CdP for a man who has little use for them. 1999 J.L. Chave, St. Joseph: About as good as the appellation has ever given me; a wonderful, Côte-Rôtie-esque wine that was so well balanced and complex it was hard to put down. A great effort. 1998 Clape, Cornas: Hard and tough with a stingy delivery; seems to be well-stuffed but just a bit angry here in its youth. 2002 Mugneret-Gibourg, Vosne-Romanée: Young but obviously deep and pure with a lovely texture. ‘Wish I had a few in the cellar . . . 2004 Bryce Vineyards, Pinot Noir: An Oregon pinot that started out old world and morphed into something closer to Santa Barbara. Not for me. 2003 Baudry, Chinon Beaumont: Here’s an engaging drop; nothing serious but so easy to drink and so generous today; of its place and delicious. 1999 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie: Tight and hard the first day; slightly more approachable on day two but lacking the depth and edge of the 2002. Not its best showing. 2003 Puffney (sp?), Arbois Rouge: Mostly poulsard, I’m told and a sort of mondeuse type delivery with a bit more tannin. Delicious and odd at the same time. 2003(?) Puffney, Arbois Blanc: Mostly savagnin I’m told and quite sherried; certainly not something I will buy but a curiosity of some merit. (The two foregoing wines were tried at a tasting and my notes have disappeared.) 1830 Alvear, PX: Forty weight meets brown sugar; very unusual and very good. Best, Jim

2004 Álvaro Castro, Vinho Tinto (Dão): I assume this is tempranillo (but don’t know). Straight-forward nose of warm fruit, earth and spice; character driven, slightly rustic palate of the same and a solid finish. Has some concentration, some nuance, some rusticity and some structure – all boding well for a short stay in the cellar. At 13% alcohol and $10, full retail, a very useful bargain. (I’ll get more of this shortly.) 2002 Roger Champault, Sancerre rouge Côte de Champtin: One of the most thought-provoking red wines I have had in quite awhile. Translucent with strawberry, herb, chalk, stone and spice on the nose – very complex and it commands my full attention without shouting; the texture is the lightest silk in the mouth and the complexity is amplified, there is a real sense of place and it is beautifully balanced, bright and moderately intense. But it seems to lack concentration and depth – although this is very early in its evolution and these elements may increase with time in the bottle. There is that chalky, herbal tone I often associate with Sancerre blanc and the layers of nuance here are really world class. And only 12.5% alcohol. As I say, a provocative wine and one worth trying if you see it. About $20. 2004 Pazo de Monterrey, Monterrei: 35% godello, 65% treixadura, 12.5% alcohol from northwestern Spain; tastes similar to albariño but with rounder melon, mineral-water, sassafras flavors and scents and a very light note of brown spice; lively in the mouth but lacks cut, smoothly textured, mouth-watering finish. This is for drinking today as nothing in it suggests a shelf life. Lunch with Sam and Jean, friends in from Salt Lake City: With carrot soup: 2001 Schumann Nägler, Riesling Kabinett Johannisberger Erntebringer: Slightly sweet and slightly sour; made a good pairing with the soup (also slightly sweet) and had sufficient cut to keep the mid-palate alive. With gruyere gratin: 2001 Marc Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets: A bit oaky upon opening, much of the wood integrated over time; bright, viscous, spicey chardonnay with excellent acidity and focus. More oak than I like but not overwhelming by any stretch and nicely ripe and balanced. Seems to have a lot of promise. Even better with the dish. Best, Jim

Craig, As much as I would enjoy your company, I suspect you would have not enjoyed my reaction. But then, considering some of Mr. Rovani's, perhaps I would have been no trouble at all. Best, Jim

The same price? Good heavens, were that such things happened here. Best, Jim

2004 Pazo Señorans, Albariño: Under-ripe, tropical fruit nose; plenty of concentration, flavors echo the nose and nice balance on the palate with a very spicy and peppery finish. Seems just a bit tight so some cellaring may be in order. Varietally accurate, moderately complex and interesting. Good wine. 2004 Terres Dorées (J.P. Brun), Côte de Brouilly: Somewhat stemmy on the attack but ripe fruit across the palate and lots of nuance throughout. Could probably use a year in the cellar but is a balanced and engaging wine now with a bit of time in the decanter. Dinner with friends: With smoked trout spread in endive leaves: 2002 La Chablisienne, Chablis Cuvée L C: Perfect pairing; the wine fitting into the smoked trout flavors as though it had been made to do it; bright, young Chablis with good ripeness and lovely mineral accents. With duck ragu on pasta: 2003 Z’IVO, Pinot Noir Willamette Valley: Somebody, of course, is kidding . . . this is from Oregon? With 16% alcohol? Not even remotely bearing a resemblance to pinot noir, this wine is a vivid example of the “new and improved, homogenized-fruity-food-shake” that has to have been created by some marketing agency because it sure doesn’t taste like grapes; buy two; get one at twice the price! Absolutely, positively, as bad as the variety can get without being unpalatable. Port dates pinot, vodka crashes the tryst and Everclear gets the girl. In the ‘can’t you say anything nice category,’ it didn’t reek of wood. “Bad, bad wine; go lay down.” After dinner: 2002 Clos Roche Blanche, Gamay: Not my favorite CRB gamay in the last several years but, after the foregoing blow-torch, a pleasing oasis and such a welcome respite from that “bulldozer style of alcoholic, fermentation beverage” as to be utterly sublime. Best, Jim

2003 Quintarelli, Secco Ca’del Merlo: Tight and acidic out of the bottle but it opened and tamed over the course of dinner. I am told this is sauvignon blanc and tocai but I found no varietal character so attributable; instead it was both brighter and more rustic than expected with a slight resinous quality. Overall, an appealing wine that held my interest despite other choices. I may have to get some of this. (Anybody know if there is some saorin in this; I know he uses that local grape in his passito?) Thanks Bill. 1997 Quintarelli, Valpolicella: Very closed; giving only the briefest scents and flavors of Valpolicella . . . and then everything hiding behind aromas and flavors akin to hard candy. Hidden structure seems more resolved than one might expect but I’m betting this wine needs years to unwind. Today, interesting but not fascinating. Thanks John. 2002 Spreitzer, Riesling Kabinett Oestricher Lenchen halbtrocken: A protracted way to say delicious; this is pure, stony, crystalline riesling with excellent cut, perfect balance and a sweetness that is more sec-tendre than demi-sec. A “little” wine with a mouth-watering juiciness and a graceful charm, with or without food. Thanks John. 2004 Chiver, Syrah: An interesting bottle shape, a pretty label and a mediocre wine (what were the odds?). I bought this because it was a $20 syrah from Mendocino, a terroir that I know can make fine wine (eg. Copian). But this is candied on the nose and palate, 14.5% alcohol, feels manipulated and is about as engaging as flat soda pop. At least it’s not over-oaked. Too bad. Best, Jim

Bill, For what its worth, I do not save bottles for special events; when I want them, I drink them. However, I try not to want those that I know will be better if I hold them. Best, Jim

No wood? La Chablisienne? Jim, do you know if it is just this cuvee or signs of a trend from this producer? ← Brad, My first bottle ever from this commune so, your guess is as good as mine. Best, Jim

2003 Pieropan, Soave: A victim of the vintage and, while not a bad wine, not even close to normal quality from this producer. Soft, light on acidity, smoothly textured and pleasant – but no more. 2002 La Chablisienne, Chablis Cuvée LC: Ripe with a great mineral and acid backbone, no wood, lots of character, layers of flavor and absolutely of its place. Lovely juice for now. 2002 Tamellini, Soave Anguane: Coiled, structured and deep; first rate, single vineyard garganega with both a shelf life and a seriously long finish. Excellent wine. 2004 Dom. De la Pepière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine: Just wonderful; juicy, stony, sea-air and lemony scents and flavors, perfectly balanced and beautifully made. Stellar wine. 2005 Terres Dorées (J.P. Brun), Beaujolais Nouveau: Exuberant, blackberry essence that dances in the mouth and keeps you coming back. Life-affirming wine and as good as the genre will ever see. Not to be missed. Best, Jim

N/V Gloria Ferrer, Blanc de Noir: Perfectly acceptable, well flavored, lively bubbly. Most enjoyable. 2004 Quinto de Ameal, Vinho Verde: Nothing like the vinho verde I’m used to; no spritz, smoothly textured, some depth of flavor and nicely balanced; even has a finish. Very nice. 2003 Bonny Doon, Malvasia Bianca: Smells like gum and tastes sort of like it, too – but in a good way (if that’s possible). Idiosyncratic stuff and not something I’d buy but not a bad wine. 2003 Chat. St. Julian, Chardonnay: Overwhelmed by oak. Bad wine; astringent; bad wine. 2001 Bonny Doon, Le Cigare Volante: 34% grenache, 33% syrah, 27% mourvedre, 2% viognier, 2% cinsault, 2% carignane; pleasant, Rhonish stuff with little to distinguish it. Eh. 2003 La Legua: Mostly Tempranillo and mostly good. Not bad, okay. Tolerable, plus. 2002 Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve: From Israel; this is oaky but not overwhelmingly so and pretty well balanced; not my style but pretty decent for its style. Sold like hot cakes at this tasting. 2003 L. Latour, Volnay: Pinot noir that is from anywhere and completely resolved; not bad but without character or reason to have a second glass. 2003 Bonello, Merlot/Nero d’Avola: If you’re keeping score, 51%/49%, respectively. Pretty ugly wine and not worth a second taste. 2005 Terres Dorées, Beaujolais Nouveau: There is an exception to most rules and this is it; wonderful, essence of black fruit, fresh, juicy, glorious and I’m-so-glad-to-be-alive-and-drinking-this-juice. And it’s on sale at Astor in NYC for $7. The ultimate no-brainer. Best, Jim

Brad, In a very brief conversation with Eric Solomon, I got the impression that he and Robin parted company when the house style started to change. I may have misread his comments, so take this with a grain of salt but your experience seems to lend some support to that opinion. I never thought of 1998 Burgs. as early drinkers; rather, I thought of them as pretty tannic - of course, all this is such a general statement as to be near useless. But I do find that several Volnay producers (Montille among them) make wines for the cellar more than for early consumption so your thoughts about continued cellaring sound prudent. 1999 in the Northern Rhone - sweeeeeet! Best, Jim