Florida Jim

1996 Pertinace, Langhe: 70% nebbiolo, 15% barbera, 15% cabernet sauvignon, 13% alcohol, nine months in French oak and about $16, on sale; its juicy, balanced, texturally smooth, has some grip, is not over-wooded and is pretty long . . . but the mix just doesn’t work for me. Maybe this is someone’s idea of what a “super-Piedmont” wine should be but it seems compressed, a bit musky and like the top-end has been lopped off the nebbiolo both on the nose and palate. Certainly not a bad wine and good accompaniment to pizza, but less than the sum of its parts and I wouldn’t spend the money again. 2004 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore: The freshest, just picked, red cherries – ripe, firm, pure, juicy and bursting with scent and flavor – for me, referencing moments when I was young and I helped my Mom cook a cherry pie from fruit we had just picked. Glorious, beyond words, lots of life in the cellar and about $30; I’d buy this again and again and again . . . (and did). 2004 Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo Pétalos: This is made of mencia, a variety that, I am told, is indigenous to the region; 13.5% alcohol; relatively straight-forward on the nose with red fruit and earth scents; much more intricate and layered on the palate and the texture is velvety; long, powerful finish. A balanced, plush rendition of the grape that is very easy to drink and, being the low-end bottling, it avoids the over-oaking that is often seen in more expensive wines from this area. About $16; I would buy it again. 2005 Quenard, Chignin Anne de la Biguerne: 12% alcohol and woven of gossamer. Stellar with smoked trout in endive. Terrific wine at about $10; buy again, many times. 1999 Chateau de Fonsalette, Syrah Reserve: All terroir on the nose with earth, olive and mushroom accenting bright red fruit; deep and somewhat closed on the palate with flavors that echo the nose and come across as full but without great weight, balanced and clean; long, grippy finish. At 14%, showing none of its alcohol. Delicious with sausage with fennel and onions, butternut squash with fried sage and assorted sautéed mushrooms. Price unknown. 1998 Cantina del Pino, Barbaresco: This has “younged up” from my last bottle and shows as would a young, well-made Barbaresco from a fine producer; its rich yet grippy, pure but nuanced and still, its only a child; long, slightly drying finish. Fabulous wine before its time. Hold. About $35 on release; I’d pay that again. Best, Jim

Thanks for the kind words. I have all my notes on harddrive, have never organized them and have little interest in publishing them. But I love continuing the exploration and am happy to report as I go. 'Hope that will do. Best, Jim

1998 Salomon, Grüner Veltliner Reserve: Honeycomb, poached pear and new mown hay scents with some pretty citrus accents; viscous, mid-weight wine with flavors that follow the nose, good acidity and a touch of oxidation; medium length, crisp finish. A nice wine by itself but beside cauliflower soup with truffle oil, one of the finest pairings I have experienced. $8 on sale and worth three times the price. 1999 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie Cuvée Tardive: I adore this wine. There is the wild strawberry, face powder stuff in the nose so typical of Fleurie but there’s also the smoky, old vine sap of dark fruit; there’s beautiful, deep, ripe fruit flavors but also a finesse that keeps the whole package from getting too intense, and a grip that makes the palate more simpatico with food, excellent balance and breadth; and there is fabulous, complex length. It’s not finished developing yet but it has come a long way in seven years and is about as good with mustard and bread crumb coated roasted chicken as any wine could be. A masterpiece; about $22 on release and I’d buy it again, many times over. 2005 Thévenet, Morgon: I can’t keep my hands of this stuff; great dark fruit smells and flavors, lots of verve and depth, 13% alcohol, beautiful balance and good structure. It may last awhile in your cellar but it won’t in mine. About $23; I’d buy it again at that price. 2005 Quénard, Chignin Anne de la Biguerne: Ah, the beauties of the jacquère grape when grown by talented and committed people in the Savoie; lightly scented with lime skin, rushing stream-water and stone aromas; mid-weight, slightly viscous with flavors that follow the nose and add some apple and grapefruit flavors, nicely balanced, 12% alcohol and a longer than expected finish with a mouthwatering bitter element. Charming wine that references crisp mountain air and bright sunshine on a cool day. Marvelous with homemade vegetable soup, corn bread and salad. About $10; I’d buy cases of it at that price (and did). Best, Jim

Chablis, California, Crozes: 2000 J.P. Droin, Chablis Les Clos: Really, really good but still only a juvenile. Let ‘er sit and prepare for a marvelous experience in about ten years. $38 on release; I’d buy it again, any day. 1995 Havens, Bourriquot: Supposedly a mix like Cheval Blanc; not even close. Lots of lumber in the nose and on the palate; lots of depth, solid fruit, 13.7% alcohol and good structure but, in the end, just another winemaker who has snatched defeat from the jaws of victory. $40 on release; I’d not buy it at any price. 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Alberic Bouvet: A touch of brett does not detract from an exceedingly complex, medium-weight delivery that sucks me in, manhandles my senses and spits me back out knowing that I have been in a very, very, very good place. ‘Rocks my world for $9 on sale. ‘Killer juice. Best, Jim

California, Italy, Austria: 1995 Snowden, Cabernet Sauvignon: 14.5% alcohol shows in volume but not with heat; black, big-assed CA wine with huge fruit aromas and flavors in the blackberry/blueberry/black currant register, big tannins, moderate oak, dense but disjointed, good acids; a raw, young wine that needs another ten years in the cellar. Not for me but has promise for those who enjoy this style. ‘Needs powerfully flavored food. $45 on release; I’d not buy it again. 2001 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: Singing! Redolent nose of dried roses, cherries, light tar and mineral accents; expansive on the palate with flavors that echo the nose but do it in layers of complexity and ripe fruit; intense, moderately concentrated, good grip, clean and has good length (slightly drying). No, it isn’t Barbaresco but it certainly is a superb rendition of nebbiolo and its ready now (although I’m sure it will last). About $20; I’d buy many cases at that price. (So much better now than bottles tried last year; and those were very good, indeed.) 2001 Hirtzberger, Riesling Singerriedel: Solid, concentrated riesling with little to distinguish it. I assume this is closed down; if not, this doesn’t measure up to the maker and dirt from which it comes. Tasted over 24 hours. About $47 wholesale; I’d not buy it again at that price. (The second time I have tasted this in the last 6 months and it’s was similarly unimpressive on both occasions.) Best, Jim

With Diane’s Cesar salad with grilled chicken: 2004 A. et P. de Villaine, Bourgogne Les Clous: The website says that this is from old vines grown on mostly limestone on a south facing slope and should be aged a minimum of 5-7 years; vin de garde is the term they use; the label reports that its from the Côte Chalonnaise and that its 12.5% alcohol; the price tag notes that it costs about $20; and, I can tell you that this is the most impressive non-Chablis chardonnay I have had in a very long time; wonderful chardonnay, citrus and mineral scents; lovely, mid-weight but very intense and clear chardonnay fruit on the palate with terrific cut, a wonderful sense of the earth and tightly wrapped layers of flavor; excellent length and minerality on the finish. This is one of the times when I believe the maker; let it sit. There is an entire world of nuance and flavor wrapped up in this wine and it has sufficient structure to last and develop for many years. But if you happen to be in the mood for a very stony white with, say, your chicken Cesar, this is a great choice. I will buy this again in virtually any vintage at this price. Wow! Best, Jim

2002 Baumard, Savennières: Beginning to open to show more depth of fruit with quince, citrus and mineral scents and flavors, medium weight, very clean delivery and good balance. Very good accompaniment to smoked trout spread. About $20; I’d buy it again. 1998 Flowers, Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast: A fruit driven pinot from anywhere – but, to its credit, gentle on the oak, concentrated without being extractive and 13.9% alcohol. This has the balance and strength to age awhile and may be the better for it. Good with a pasta and olive dish. About $44, on release; I’d not pay that again. 2002 Dom. Les Fines Graves (Jacky Janodet), Moulin à Vent: 13% and $13; lucky numbers. Black fruit, bar-b-q sauce, mineral and light smoke tones on the nose; the same on the palate but with greater emphasis on dark fruit, almost no sauce elements and a pleasant, almost refreshing minerality; good balance and sustain. I love wines that can be aged but show well even when they are not at peak – this is one. I’d buy it again. 1994 DeLille Cellars, Chaleur Estate: A blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc that sees 100% new French oak for 20 months and comes out at 14%. Solid, elegant blackberry fruit obscured by lots of dill-oak. A winemaking error compounded by a $55 price tag at release; no way in the world I buy this again, at any price. 1995 DeLille Cellars, Chaleur Estate: 13.8% alcohol, about 200% better wine than the ’94 with layered fruit flavors, satin textures and real depth but still too much dill/oak. Same mistake, same price, same comments. What a waste. 2002 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois Pupillin: A gift to myself after the preceding travesties; fantastic earthy nose with nuance and character; more fruit on the palate but still lots of lightweight complexity and character with great balance and sustain. A wonderful, authentic, wine that goes well with pasta and veggies and, more importantly, makes me forget just how bad Washington cabernet can be. About $23 and I would buy it again, many times over. Best, Jim

2004 Pepière, Muscadet: As usual, refreshing, delicious and gone too quickly. About $9; I’d buy it again. 2005 Thévenet, Morgon VV: My second bottle of this and it was as equally intense and beautiful as the first. But I talked with a friend who tried a bottle that was slightly frizzante and off. I have often had those kinds of troubles with Thévenet and Lapierre wines in the past and very occasionally with Foillard’s – I think I’m pretty much over buying the “gang of four” Beaujolais. Good bottles can be terrific but the number of off bottles makes them unreliable, IMO. About $23; I’d not buy it again for the reasons mentioned. 1994 Mondavi, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve: Standard grade, CA cabernet with no obvious flaws and nothing to distinguish it from any other wine of the same variety. Bought on sale near release at $66; I’d not buy it again. I attended an off-line this past weekend and can share brief comments about some of the wines: 1996 Ogier, Cote-Rotie; pretty nose, attenuated palate. 1995 Chave, Hermitage; reticent nose, good but not great palate. 1999 Dom. Belle Louis Belle Rouge, Crozes-Hermitage; started out simple and sweet but got much better and really complex with airing – hold. 1995 Drouhin, Griotte-Chambertin; took the entire night to show much of anything – hold. 1996 deMontille, Taille-Pieds; rock hard but good with food – hold. 1992 Rion, Vosne-Romanee; classy, developed, lightweight and quite complex; once again this vintage produces an overachiever. Ready. 1990 Ponzi, Pinot Anniversary bottling; full, structured, layered and delicious; really outstanding wine. 1994 Thomas, Pinot; took a little time to open but was typical for the producer – meaning delicious but idiosyncratic. Could stand a few more years. Lots of others and a bunch of whites; unfortunately, I wrote nothing down and my memory is, well, less than adequate. But one wine really got my attention: Dom. Aigueliere, Montpeyroux Cuvee Doree. I tasted both the 1999 and 1995 vintages. This wine is from gravel vineyards and is mostly syrah. It gets 8 months in new wood. The ’99 was too young to assess, but certainly packed with fruit and structure. The 1995 is nowhere near ready to drink (probably another 15 years in the cellar), but it showed a depth and fineness that are hard to put in words but instantly recognizable as the beginnings of greatness. I understand that these are in the $35-$45 range and I would certainly buy them at that price. Best, Jim

Arbois, Beaujolais, Cornas, Sherry: 2002 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois Pupillon: Slightly orange at the rim; wild strawberry, mineral, orange skin on the nose; light in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose, some flesh, bright acids and beautiful balance; medium length, intense finish. 12.5% alcohol and “nothin’ but net.” Superb. I’d definitely buy it again at $23. 2004 Terres Dorées (Brun), Fleurie: Fresh raspberries dominate the nose; more diverse on the palate with red raspberry, mineral, red cherry flavors that have depth but come across light and lacy, good grip, silken texture and perfect balance; long, finish that tastes like I just ate a spoonful of fresh raspberries. This is glorious stuff; 12% alcohol and in no danger of falling off – but I can’t possibly avoid drinking another ASAP. The best $19 wine in the history of the world, the galaxy and the universe; if only it were still in the market. And with grilled chicken with potato, mushroom and escarole hash, just plain out of this world. 1999 Juge, Cornas Cuvée C: The lighter side of the appellation with underbrush, black olive and red fruit elements on the nose; medium weight, a very alluring complexity as the elements of the nose expand into layers of earthy flavor, solid acidity and lovely balance; medium length finish. A wine of finesse and detail with an almost hidden structure. And maybe just a little closed, right now, as this has a sneaky concentration. If I could find it again at the $35 I paid, I’d buy a lot. ‘Wonderful with olive bread, toasted cheese sandwiches and a chunky, broth-based tomato soup. Solera Bodegas Dios Baca, Sherry Amontillado: Sautéed walnuts, dried fruit peel, slight yeasty tone; semi-dry in the mouth with flavors that echo the nose, an oily texture and an infinite finish. 18%, so I have to be easy with this stuff, but with appetizers or tapas, I can’t imagine it getting any better. I also tried the fino from this house and it is bursting with fresh fruit and yeast notes and mouthwatering. I will buy both of these again at about $18 per. Best, Jim

Spain, Austria, Oregon: 2004 Descendants de J. Palacious, Bierzo Pétalos: Smells like a tannic cabernet franc (but without any herbaceous quality); rich in the mouth with black fruit flavors, some earth tones and a good shot of tannin; medium length, somewhat tannic finish. Shows youthful and undeveloped but with good fruit and structure and I like the flavor profile. About $16, and could use a couple years in the cellar. 2000 Nikolaihof, Riesling Smaragd Im Weingebirge: Expansive pineapple-ginger nose with lots of stone/mineral scents but no petrol tones; also expansive in the mouth with a juicy acidic backbone, good depth, some nuance and excellent balance; medium length, mouthwatering finish. A wine of power and finesse in its toddler years. 12.5% alcohol and about $35, on release. 1998 Hamacher, Pinot Noir: Developed pinot nose with soy, earth, underbrush and red fruit; younger on the palate with medium weight, solid acids, flavors that follow the nose, pretty nuance and good balance; medium length, strongly flavored finish. A wine of finesse and backbone; not anywhere near its peak but charming and interesting, at the moment. About 13% alcohol and about $30, on release. Best, Jim

1993 Fisher, Cabernet Sauvignon Lamb Vineyard: Decanted off moderate sediment, 13% alcohol; youthful appearance, solid ruby to the rim; muted nose of earth and dark plum; very good in the mouth with plum and dark chocolate flavors, a worsted texture, good grip, depth and intensity, well-balanced and slightly juicy; long, finish with some extremely fine, sweet tannins. The nose is unremarkable but the flavors are delicious; this has lots of time left. About $55, on release. 2001 Arcadian, Pinot Noir Pisoni Vnyd. (from 9L): Earthy nose with underbrush, stone and light pinot fruit; much the same on the palate but amped up three-fold in intensity; medium finish. A very Burgundian wine that is still a bit tight. Price unknown. 1985 Chateau Montelena, Cabernet Sauvignon (from 6L): At its prime with very pure fruit, superb depth, nuance and balance and a very long, perfectly balanced finish. Utterly harmonious and a joy to drink. Price unknown. 1998 Silver Oak, Caberent Sauvignon Napa Valley (from 6L): Oaked beyond recognition; DNPIM. Price unknown. 1993 Paul Roger, Champagne: Subtle, mellow and at its very best. Price unknown. 2000 Grand Puy-Lacoste: Young but earthy and complex; beautifully textured. Paulliac through and through. Price unknown. 2004 de Villaine, Bourgogne La Fortune: Lightweight, fresh, supple and juicy; a little short on the finish but one would have trouble finding a nicer pinot for the $20 this cost. Best, Jim

Yep. Recently tasted and I agree. Best, Jim

2002 Allemand, Cornas: 12.5%, no vineyard designates this year; reticent nose of raspberry and earth; dilute palate but with good balance and character that is of its place; without concentration or depth; medium, fully ready finish. Drink now. About $35. Nothing to write home about but pleasant accompaniment to sausage ragu. Best, Jim

Asheville Wine Market, Asheville, NC. Best, Jim

2004 Dom. Les Fines Graves (Jacky Janodet), Chénas: From 40+ year old gamay vines in a vineyard full of stones; needs about two hours in the decanter to open and comes across very Burgundian with depth, medium weight, solid black fruit, mineral and good cut; really terrific with roasted chicken and surely has at least a mid-term aging curve. About $13. 1993 Lopez de Heredia, Viña Tondonia Rioja Rosato: This ain’t your mama’s rosé; transparent copper color; smells of ripe pomegranate that’s slightly oxidized; more stone and mineral driven on the palate with flavors that follow the nose and add light fino sherry tones, good viscosity and balance, juicy intensity; long, slightly oxidized finish. Not for everyone but a wine of distinct character, authentic to its place and uniquely flavored. When decanted and allowed to air awhile, it takes on several levels of flavor. Fascinating juice that has a virtually unlimited shelf life. About $20. (Enjoyed with a frittata that included the last zucchini of the year – a match made in heaven; truly.) 1992 Sullivan, Cabernet Sauvignon: From a vintage I have always thought better than its press; cherry cola and ripe currants on the nose with a clear mineral component and an accent of milk chocolate; fresh and juicy in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose, excellent grip, quite intense and bright; very long, somewhat drying finish. Not especially complex but so fresh and clean that I don’t care. Decanted off substantial sediment. This producer has made some of the most tannic wines I have ever encountered, especially in the late ‘80’s and early ‘90’s. And this has that kind of rusticity (probably best with rare, red meat) . . . but it also has some beautiful fruit, a dose of nuance and, ah yes, 13.2% alcohol. In no danger of diminishing. About $45, on release. 1994 Laurel Glen, Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain: A recent 1993 version of this wine was so developed, I thought I’d try this bottle; a bit reduced initially and so I decanted the wine off moderate sediment; still red-black to the rim and opaque; classic cassis driven nose with some warm blackberry and mineral scents, very slight bottle bouquet; elegant and restrained in the mouth with well integrated tannins, bright acidity, discrete flavors that follow the nose and add a judicious note of unsweetened, dark chocolate, intense and concentrated but not completely together yet, some complexity and some development noticed; medium length finish, with a somewhat drying note of unsweetened, dark chocolate. And 12.5% alcohol; ‘the good old days.’ About $40, on release. (This showed much younger than the ’93 I mentioned above; not near the complexity or secondary development and it still has some integration to complete.) Hold. Aside: Several years ago I consigned most of my California wines to a local restaurant. Over those years that consignment has made me enough to buy some really nice variety for the cellar. But recently, the restaurant was sold and any of my wine that was left, was returned. To my good fortune, this happens at a time when I have renewed an interest in CA wines and most of what was returned was at least ten years old. Things like several vintages of Laurel Glen cab., Mondavi Res., Snowden, Sullivan, Fisher, Lamb Vnyd., some Lajota cab. francs, and some Sullivan and Paloma, merlots. All the fancy, big-hype stuff was sold off and I couldn’t be happier with both that fact (read profit) and the goodies that remain. So now my posts will start to contain notes on these older CA wines. And a tip of the hat to Russell Bevan who ‘forced me’ to retaste the 1994 Togni, cab. the last time I was at his house. That, in itself, has sparked my interest older CA wine. Best, Jim

Handcuffs and leather straps that are attached to . . . Oh - you really don't want to know. Best, Jim

1999 Dom. Michel Lafarge, Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs: Upon opening, quite aromatic with stone, vinous red fruit and light mushroom aromas, very slightly reductive (so I decanted the bottle off some sediment); slightly tannic attack with moderately complex flavors that follow the nose adding a light herb tone, a bit hollow at mid-palate; medium length, grippy finish. Overall, showing closed and youthful without the depth or density I would expect from this producer and this dirt. One-half an hour later with pasta with mushrooms; more density and length, the middle has firmed up and the flavors have taken on some depth and stand well with the dish – this is still an elegant, mid-weight wine but the pedigree is starting to show. Five and a half hours later without food; more reticent aromatics; continuing development of density at mid-palate with more evident depth, concentration, breed and length, yet still, the overall impression is a closed and structured wine. About $75, on release.

2005 Raymond Quénard, Vin de Savoie Chignin VV: Fresh and juicy mondeuse at 12% alcohol with notes of red grapes and flint on the nose and a noticeable minerality as a part of the grapey palate. A pretty wine, that’s quite young and mildly reminiscent of gamay in, some ways. About $17. 2004 Gorrondona, Bizkaiko Txakolina (red): The grape is hondarrabi beltza from 100+ year old, ungrafted vines in the Basque; it’s 12% alcohol and fermented in stainless. A pungent leafy/herbal streak is center stage in the nose with solid red fruit and mineral notes (sort of Loire cab. franc like); the herbaceousness steps aside on the palate as the fruit becomes more complex and detailed; long, very detailed finish. 99% of the time I don’t like this much herb in my wine but this got better in the glass and became so complex and challenging that I was enamored; even Diane, who hates ‘green’ in her wine, liked this. About $18. I do believe I’ll let this sleep awhile; such was my impression. 2005 Amesguren, Getariako Txakolina Ameztoi (white): Hondarrabi zuri is the grape and this too is from the Basque region of Spain at about 11% alcohol, done only in tank. Fresh white grapefruit with a little peach skin and some tonic water scents; cleansing acidity in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose, lightweight, maybe some dissolved CO2 and a clean, crisp, mouthwatering aftertaste. To be drunk now, I’d say and really very refreshing (as in, drink it on a hot day). About $14. 1998 Dom. G. Roumier, Bonnes-Mares: I think it was Baron Rothschild that said the best food match for Mouton was something simple like macaroni and cheese – to that end, a dinner of seared (rare), sushi quality tuna with a little olive oil on the side and this bottle; penetrating aromas of ripe red fruits, steel, freshly turned loam and five-spice powder; deep and focused in the mouth with powerful flavors that follow the nose, a substantial shot of tannin and a complexity that seems to vary the delivery of the flavors each time I take a sip; very long and structured but not at all drying at the finish. Young, contemplative and visceral at the same time. Really, very nice – and the Baron was right. About $90 several years ago because it had a stained label. 2002 Overnoy, Arbois Pupillin: Made from the poulsard grape (also spelled plousard), 12.5% alcohol from the Jura. Essence of fresh, wild strawberry on the nose with light accents of mineral, talc and herb; great cut on the palate with flavors that follow the nose, mouthwatering acidity, character and intensity; long, intense finish. Accompanied pasta with mushrooms and, when tasted with the food, the wine becomes softer, more complex and yet is still every bit as fresh. Showing young but delicious, even now. About $22. (Interestingly, the color is pale garnet with some browning at the edges and yet nothing about this wine is indicative of age.) As I taste, I learn: The Bonnes-Mares is good wine but, I prefer the Arbois (regardless of price). And, at the current price of the Roumier wines, I can buy a case (or more) of the Poulsard. A no-brainer, for me, if there ever was one. A recent ‘94 Togni, cab. made me rethink my position on how herbaceous a wine can be before I say no; the Gorrondona did likewise; isn’t it interesting how our tastes change? BTW, Hondarrabi is also spelled Ondarrabi, but don’t look it up in the Oxford Companion – its not there. Oh, how I delight in finding something Jancis missed/dismissed – please, forgive me my vanity. Best, Jim

I think ESJ has always tended to Rhone varietals and will continue to. This year there will be syrahs, grenache-syrah blends, and possibly a straight grenache. Also the gamay and pinot grigio. But alot less wine overall. Cold. Best, Jim

Without sounding flip, whatever came next. Steve's operation is small and he had cut production this year so we just waited for the grapes and then did everything that was required. Crush is pretty much controlled by the influx of fruit - that and the endless cleaning. Well, we came pretty close to dropping a barrel of wine off a truck but, thankfully, caught it in time. Otherwise we were a well-oiled machine. Steve's house; I was on call 24/7. Among other things. Best, Jim

Steve Edmunds, of Edmunds Saint John Wines (ESJ), asked for help with crush this year as his back was hurting. I volunteered. On September 7th, I got in my car and started the drive to Berkeley, CA. On October the 8th, I got out of my car back at my place in Linville, NC. Six thousand miles of memories, tastes and experiences; here are a few brief thoughts: This is a beautiful country, even from the driver’s seat on I-40. I urge you to go see it. Being a cellar rat (or winemaker) at crush is about as physically demanding and mentally difficult as being a full-time roofer in Florida during the summer – yep, I’ve done both, the last, never again. The number of generous, helpful, hard working people around small wineries is remarkable and one of the most heartening experiences of my trip. Even though I have seen a tendency on the wine boards of folks getting away from extremely big, heavily extracted, high alcohol, oaky red wines, I think many, if not most, of the winemakers in CA are still interested in making them. Whether it is for the sake of reviewers who seem to favor them or their perception that the public loves them, I see very few people interested in making food friendly, elegant wines that age. Maybe that’s a comment on how small and impotent the on-line wine community is or maybe it reinforces the power of wine critics over the market. Maybe it’s just the way the market is. But one way or the other, the niche for people like Steve and Kevin Harvey is pretty narrow. These guys need our support. The number of CA wines that are now pushing the 15%, 16%, 17%, alcohol levels is increasing regardless of varietal. I even tasted some hovering near 18%. Why aren’t these things labeled as “fortified?” (Or does that term have a legal definition? Maybe “amplified” will do.) There are too many people in coastal CA with way too many cars. But everything grows there, the weather is quite nice and the amenities are second to none. Oh yes, and the cost is damnable. I tasted a lot of good wine over the last month; here are some of the ones that caught my attention: 1997 ESJ, Sangiovese Matagrano: Without peer among this variety in CA and the equal to almost any sangio. I have had from anywhere. Not the ‘best’ wine I tasted but certainly the biggest surprise. Beautifully pure, character driven, varietally accurate sangio. that was positively delicious. 2004 Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana: made from the nerello mascalese grape from vineyards on Mt. Etna in Sicily. An amazing wine (that I immediately bought a case of) with pinot like elegance and nebbiolo like textures. Although my last bottle indicated that this is starting to close down, a little decanter time helped. A unique wine of finesse with a world of promise. About $23. 2005 Tevenet, Morgon VV: If this is any indication of the vintage in Beaujolais, I may go broke. Very Burgundian with more of a pinot profile than gamay. Still, juicy and fresh but quite structured. About $26. 2005 Colle Stefano, Verdicchio di Matelica: Lively and fresh with good depth, lots of spice and perfect balance. Drink now and not too cold. About $14. N/V Bodega Dios Baco, Sherry Amontillo: At Cesar, in Berkeley; superb with tapas, as was the Fino from the same producer. About $18. 1993 Chave, Hermitage: Bacon, soil and clear red fruit; one of those wines where the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. 2005 Ferrando, Erbaluce di Caluso: bright, crisp, peachy juice with focus and maybe a slight bit of dissolved CO2 (which just made it that much more fun). 2005 Denis Jamin, Reuilly Pinot Gris Rose: weightless, clean, refreshing, 12.5% and $11. Yummy. 1993 ESJ, Syrah Durrell Vnyd.: secondary bottle bouquet, immense complexity, tremendous flavor and great length. Could still age further but a truly great wine. Also had the 1994 which could be described exactly the same but seemed a little closer to peak. 2005 ESJ, Rocks and Gravel: way too young but wonderful aromatics and big tannins. 2001 ESJ, Los Robles Viejos (red): light on its feet but packed with flavor and drinking beautifully now. 1994 Togni, Cabernet Sauvignon: I have never cared for the herbal tones in the wines from this house, but this one has developed into a lovely, well-balanced wine where the herbal element is only an accent. ‘Nice to be surprised. And very nice to be home. Best, Jim

2002 Stony Hill, Chardonnay: Not many producers can have a 50th anniversary wine but this one can; clean, crisp very Chablis-like in structure but clearly CA fruit; a charming wine with a very long cellar life. About 13% alcohol and about $30 retail; I’d pay that again. 1999 Drouhin, Clos de Vougeot: Well some of the premier cru wines of this vintage may drink well but this was closed-up tight; after several hours in the decanter it was better but it never showed more than making it clear it was Burgundy. Price unknown. 1967 Chateau Margaux: One for the life list; from a vintage maligned comes the most extraordinary Bordeaux I have ever tasted; rich, powerful, expansive bottle bouquet with immense complexity entices; in the mouth the wine is full, deep, has grip, layer after layer of nuance, perfect balance and sumptuous texture that has both a worsted feel and a satin feel; endless length. Over the course of several hours it continued to change and grow, never losing its complexity but re-emphasizing different elements in the nose and palate; and, after more than four hours in a decanter and our glasses it showed no signs of falling off. 39 and counting. Sometimes you get lucky and sometimes you win the lottery. Many thanks, Mark. Best, Jim

A little checking on some bottles I’m cellaring; perhaps, influenced by Len Evans’ Capacity Theory: 1999 Mugnier, Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses: Young but for purity, intensity and elegance, it can’t be beat; the essence of Chambolle on both the nose and palate, very long, perfect balance and the sort of harmony where all the elements seem equal and proportionate such that the whole becomes greater than the sum of its parts. Fabulous! Price unknown. Thanks Kevin. 2002 Voarick, Corton-Renardes: Another amazing wine but with a harder edge, an herbaceous accent and darker fruit; still purity and intensity equal to the Amoureuses. Price $40; I’d pay that again. 1999 Robert Chevillon, Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Cailles: Again, great purity and intensity but this has a dark fruit, meaty character and an earthy tone that make it seem less about elegance and more about power and structure; very deeply flavored and more open than I expected at this point; taut but accessible; infinite length. About $47 on release; I’d pay that again. 1999 Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny Les Veroilles: The proximity of this vineyard to Bonnes Mares is immediately evident but so too, is the fine hand of this producer; darker than the Amoureuses on both the nose and palate but still very Chambolle, a symmetry in the mouth that is complex and integrated all at the same time, great depth and balance with fine tannins and a long, ripe aftertaste. Like biting into a juicy fruit. About $65 on release; I’d pay that again. None of these were completely ready but all were more open than I expected (which I put down to the character of the vintages). Another 5 years and I’ll do this again. Best, Jim

I did not buy the 03 but will the 04; the 03 was atypical. Best, Jim

I have not. Best, Jim