Florida Jim

2006 Ravelli, Soave Colli Scaligeri: Fresh, bright, almost salty minerality and enough body to stand with a pasta dish that included olives. Very clean and of its place. 12.5% alcohol, under screw cap, imported by Opici Wine Co. and about $12; I’d buy it again. 2005 Paul Pernot, Bourgogne: Lightweight, crisp, but well flavored Burgundy that goes well with both seafood and smoked duck – and that’s pretty good range, IMO. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner; I’d buy it again. 2004 A. & M. Tissot, Arbois (Poulsard) sans soufre: More herbaceous than the last bottle but so lively and fresh; ripe red fruit and a really nice wine with some goat cheese and crackers. I tasted some older CA cabernets with friends this week. Each showed substantial bottle bouquet, secondary development of flavors and pretty fair balance. But none showed any real complexity or depth and were, ultimately, boring. 1985 Dominus: The worst of the three, this may have been a compromised bottle; tinny, rustic tannins and a bit thin. 1983 Diamond Creek, Volcanic Hill: Sound wine but relatively simple and still not fully resolved. Better with food but forgettable. 1985 Dunn, Napa Valley: The best of the three with more sweetness and a round feeling in the mouth. Pretty much resolved and texturally pleasant. None of these was really interesting and we may have gotten to them too early as I have had some ‘70’s CA cabs. in the past year that have made these seem closed and too firm. Best, Jim

2004 Dom. André et Mireille Tissot, Arbois (Chardonnay): No wood in evidence anywhere, this is viscous, potent chardonnay that tastes very similar to good Chablis but has some extra stone and resin elements; good depth with integration and bright acidity all leading to a balanced, complete finish. I suspect a little cellar time will help development. 13% alcohol, imported by Potomac Selections and about $24; more than worth it. 2003 Jacques Puffeney, Arbois (Pinot Noir): Chalky tannins, very concentrated dark fruit, solid structure, good length and pretty tight; no evident wood or over-ripeness but this is more in the “pinot that wanted to be syrah” style and has virtually no sense of place at the moment. All the building blocks are there for aging and development over time but I haven’t enough experience with either this producer or this terroir to make that call with confidence. With grilled chicken and radicchio-potato salad it came together nicely and the tannins melted away. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $32; I might buy it again at that price but there are some pretty nice 2005 Côte Chalonnaise pinots in the market for less these days. 2005 Dom. du Vissoux, Beaujolais VV Cuvée Traditionnelle: The striking thing about this wine is how pure it is; lovely red fruit scents and flavors, some spice, integrated structure and perfect balance all with such an achingly beautiful purity. Not the density or complexity of the cru wines from this house in 2005 but, at present, the more complete wine. 12% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $14; ridiculously under priced. 2005 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Bassetti Vineyard: From San Luis Obispo County, this is barely an infant; purple in color and smells like purple wine also – nice complexity but so young as to give the impression of fresh grape juice; fleshy in the mouth with layers of sweet fruit, hidden structure and outstanding length. I’m about 20 years too early here; if you make the same mistake, decant a long time. 14.2% alcohol and about $45; I bought plenty. Best, Jim

2004 Dom. André et Mireille Tissot, Arbois sans soufre: A cherry red, translucent poulsard with lots of citrus tang, stony accents and an overall freshness that is quite remarkable; develops more breadth and depth in the glass yet remains focused. Mostly red fruits and earth tones but a real sense of place, too. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Potomac Selections and about $24; more than worth it. 2003 Jacques Puffeney, Arbois: Same grape, entirely different rendition; opaque in color, tannic and chunky in the mouth, a touch of raisin among much darker fruit, huge concentration – a beast compared to Tissot’s beauty. Nonetheless, the elements are in balance, it smoothes out in the glass, the Arbois character is evident and it’s very long. I think this shows the vintage as well as the AOC can without being lost to it. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $29; I’d buy it again. (Aside: The ouillé wines of the Jura are fast becoming my favorites and these two wines are examples of why, although, both could use a little time in the cellar (the Puffeney requires it), they are flavorful, distinctive, soil driven and have real character. I’d drink the Tissot with lighter fare and suspect the Puffeney may age into something altogether atypical for the grape. Both are delicious.) 2000 R. & V. Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos: Candied lemon is the predominant aroma and flavor but there’s a little complexity and good depth on the palate as well as excellent viscosity and persistence. Absolutely no hint of oxidation anywhere and little secondary development so I think this has another several years in the cellar and could use it. About $45 on release; I’d buy a stack of it at that price. (Enjoyed with seared Halibut this was a perfect match.) 2005 Chignard, Fleurie Les Moriers: Textbook Fleurie but starting to close down; if allowed to open in the glass its full of floral, red fruit and spice notes with good balance and texture but a quick sip and you’d think it was either too tight to drink or was carrying too much CO2. Best to give this a little time in the cellar. About $21; I’d buy it again. (Accompanied pasta with chanterelles; lovely, indeed.) Best, Jim

A very tough question and one better asked of those who buy and drink a lot of Zind-Humbrecht wines. I am given to understand that 2002 was a good vintage in Alsace however, I know nothing of this specific wine. Best, Jim

2004 Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana: Still not fully integrated, this has some grainy tannin and a distinct milk-chocolate covered cherry note – but that is not to imply that it is unattractive as the tannins are sweet and the cherry tone isn’t. Some very nice complexity here and the weight of a Burgundy; this is a character driven wine that you won’t confuse with other Italian reds. Nerello Moscalese is an indigenous variety to Sicily and this one is soundly done. 14% alcohol, imported by Michael Skurnik and about $30, full retail; I’d buy it again but look for a better price (they are out there). (Aside: I have heard that Mt. Etna is the source of wines that are some of the most interesting currently being produced in Italy and I have to say, I think that’s entirely possible given the progress of this wine in my cellar and others I have had brief tastes of.) 2005 Grosset, Riesling Polish Hill: With a salmon and rice salad I needed a dry, crisp white; this fit the bill. Stony and only somewhat closed (a bit of time in the glass helped a lot) but with a very clean, perfectly balanced, mouthwatering delivery that keeps it light on its feet, and, full flavors that are the essence of the variety. This is fine, albeit undeveloped, riesling. I don’t have enough experience with Clare Valley wines to say if it’s of its place but it doesn’t taste like Austria or Germany and the only Alsace maker it comes close to is Trimbach (which, IMO, isn’t a bad target to shoot at). I suspect I’m too early to this but the screwcap closure makes me wonder if the maker has decided these are not for keeping. Don’t get me wrong; I love screwcaps – but I think twice when I see a producer screwcap a wine usually meant for extended aging – it makes me wonder if he thinks the wine would drink better younger. 13% alcohol, imported by Australian Premium Wine Collection and about $20 on sale; I’d buy it again. (Aside: One of my favorite wines in the world is Clos St. Hune but the price is damnable, so I am always looking for something that comes close. After this bottle I won’t give up mortgaging my house to buy St. Hune but I also won’t be dismissing this bottling as just another pretender. ‘Pretty impressive for such a young wine (although, I have had other vintages of this that I thought less of.) 2005 Raymond Quenard, Mondeuse Chignin: A lovely red Vin de Savoie; this is like the best cherry soda you ever had but bone dry; there’s a face powder element on the nose and palate and very light herb tones but this just screams red cherries; integrated, balanced, precise and pretty long with solid grip – still it maintains an almost weightless presence. ‘Really good with smoked Gouda. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $17; I’d buy it again. (Aside: Jimmy like!) Best, Jim

So, we roll out of Florida early on Friday, stop along the way at friend’s house in SC and arrive in the western mountains of NC about mid-day on Sunday. A bit of lunch with wine and my wife, glass in hand, is off to dig in the dirt. And I can see three days of making the lawn, grounds and environs more suitable. Let me tell you about heaven . . . Along the way: 2006 Laxas, Albariño: Smells acidic, tastes sour and really never comes around over the course of the evening. There are so many better Albariños out there that this isn’t worth a tumble. 12.5% alcohol and about $12; I’d not buy it again. 2005 Phillip Faury, St. Joseph: This is Côte-Rôtie with slightly less finesse; a truly wonderful, fruit filled delivery (which I think will recede shortly) and a broad, deep, powerful structure that will support this wine’s fruit for a decade at least; maximum complexity for the appellation and excellent length. Drink today for its wonderful, baby fat fruit but, once this closes down, be prepared to wait 5-7 years for its re-emergence. A terrific wine! 12.8% alcohol and about $25; stealing at that price. 2006 Edmunds St. John, Gamay Noir Rosé Bone-Jolly: We left our place in NC at the end of April, fully intending to return within ten days. But things got out of hand and we didn’t get back for two months. I had left half a bottle of this wine (under screw cap) in the refrigerator and when we returned I thought for sure it was DOA. Wrong! It’s not like opening a fresh bottle but it has great strawberry scents, plenty of cut and vibrant fruit on the palate – after two months in the fridge! I spoke to Steve about it and he opined that the CO2 it was bottled with coupled with how fresh it was at bottling was responsible for this amazing feat. No matter; for those of you with this wine in your cellar: it will take the worst you have to give and deliver that exquisite dry rosé wine you bought to begin with. What a wine; 13.2% alcohol and about $17; more than worth the price. 2006 Dry Stack Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc Rosemary’s Vineyard: Although I tasted this out of barrel and decided immediately to buy a case, I had not tasted it since it got bottled. But a case had arrived in NC and when we got here, we opened a bottle with lunch. Lots of grapefruit scents on the nose but this has real viscosity on the palate with pineapple and mango flavors added to the grapefruit tones, good cut, plenty of staying power and a nice, mouthwatering finish. My favorite sauvignon blanc produced from . . . well, anywhere. ‘Terrific wine that I will consume over the next twelve months. 14.1% alcohol and about $20; I bought plenty. Best, Jim

2005 Frédéric Mabileau, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Rouillères: 100% cabernet franc; a wine that reflects its place as well as any with an herbaceous streak cutting through full black fruit aromas and dark earth scents; the same in the mouth with a worsted texture, good depth, lots of flesh, some complexity and grainy but sweet tannin; long, grainy finish. Some may find this too “green” but I do not as I think it strikes a nice balance between racy and rich. 13% alcohol, imported by Jon-David Headrick and about $13; I’d buy it again. Best, Jim

Brief impressions from a tasting: 2005 de Villaine, Aligote Bouzeron: Tremendous aromatics but the palate has a perm solution note that I find typical of the variety and unappealing. I suspect that people who enjoy the variety will find this exceptional. About $15. 2005 Bruno Colin, Bourgogne Chardonnay: Just a whisper too much oak for me but most people will find this terrific quality for the price. Sensational balance. About $19. 2006 Dom. Fonsiante, Corbieres Gris de Gris: A very fine, very dry rosé with excellent fruit and precision. About $11. 2005 Bruno Colin, Bourgogne Pinot Noir: Citrus and cranberry on the nose and palate with some grip. Not my style of Burgundy but not even close to being new world-ish. About $19. 2005 Frederic Mablieau, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil: Holy mother of sweet Jesus in the morning! – this is a single taste and I never put much stock in them but this is rockin’ good; complex, full, dense, integrated and grippy – so I bought a bottle and will have it with food later this week and report back. About $13. 2005 Tikalo, Albaliza: About 65% tempranillo and 35% grenache; balanced, solid wine that is a little confected but not so much as to be offensive. About $7. 2004 Clarendon Hills, Grenache Hickinbotham: Not terrible but definitely “cocktail” wine and a bit sugary for this taster. Not my style. About $50. Best, Jim

Mary, Thank-you. My favorite wine critic these days is my wife. She is not "into" it, knows not a Lafite from a Lapierre and prefers to drink and not talk about it. Thus, she comments on a wine very, very seldom. She also has no faith in her palate but she should as she is both discerning as to a wine's "parts" and also appreciates its overall performance. So, what I get is someone whose palate is very intuitive while still being experienced but someone who doesn't speak about wine often (which in itself is significant). When she does, I'm listening. Best, Jim

I once asked Mr. Parker about why he uses the 100 point system. His response was that restaurants are rated in some objective manner, as are movies, hotels, etc., and that he thought wine was, among other things, a consumer product that could also stand to be rated in the same manner. I am no fan of any objective method of rating wine but his point is well taken and, whether one likes the system or not, it is myopic to argue that it doesn't have some place in the wine market. Best, Jim

Domaine A. et P. de Villaine, make some of my favorite Burgundy varietals from their vineyards on the Côte Chalonnaise. In a vaunted vintage like 2005, I was excited to get to taste their wines. Of course, Aubert de Villaine’s “day job” is at DRC where organic viticulture, low yields, manual harvesting, strict sorting and natural vinification are the norm. He operates his own estate the same way and the wines, year in and year out, demonstrate that attention. These are imported by Kermit Lynch and all report in at 12.5% alcohol. First up was the Bourgogne (blanc), Les Clous which, as anyone who buys the wine regularly can tell you, is meant to be aged (minimum 5-7 years). On day one it was very tight both aromatically and in the mouth but showed Chablis-like structure, solid minerality and ripe fruit peeking through. But drinking this now is silly; it is barely a suggestion of what is to come. On day two, it’s tight but some of the light oak (as it should be used – to barely frame the wine), ripe fruits, complexity and remarkable finesse shows through. Not fully integrated but showing enough depth, character, structure and style to convince me that I need to buy a healthy number of bottles. About $25; I’d buy it again. Next, was the Bourgogne (rouge), La Fortune that is made from younger vines and intended to be drunk in its first five years of life. On day one, this was exuberantly spicy, intensely fruited, and bursting with fresh fruit scents and flavors. I am delighted to find little evidence of wood, brisk acidity and precise balance even as this bottle delivers potent flavors and some grip. On day two, the spice has toned down a bit but it’s augmented with fresh black cherry flavors; it also exhibits more textural density. Lovely for drinking now or short term cellaring. About $25; I’d buy it again. The Bourgogne, La Digoine is produced from a vineyard near La Fortune with the same exposition but with older vines. While usually drinkable on release, it requires a decade in bottle to fully develop. On day one, it was reserved showing black fruit, loam and stones on the nose; firmer on the palate yet with old vine sap apparent and showing more length and grip than the preceding wine. Obviously, needs some time. On day two, this is still firm, focused and stony but there’s more “there” there in terms of both its depth and character. Fuller at mid-palate yet quite youthful and vigorous, this is very much the kind of Burgundy I want in my cellar and clearly, it requires cellaring. About $30; I’d buy it again. Lastly, the Mercury, Les Montots is from a vineyard situated on a steep slope with a southern exposure and the vines were originally selected from Nuits-Saint-Georges. This wine often does not show it’s all until seven plus years in the bottle and will develop for twenty. On day one this is darker and almost brooding on the nose but with some floral high notes; focused and structured in the mouth it shows meat, earth and fresh herb tones that are more opulent than the preceding wine, and it has a long finish with considerable grip. Upon tasting, my first thought is that this should be served with duck; it has the concentration and cut for the dish and the flavors seem to call out for dark meat poultry. Also needs time. On day two, primary and substantial both on the nose and palate but with more breadth than the preceding reds and a sappy, slightly rustic delivery that again, calls out for duck. So young but so expressive. About $35; I’d buy it again. None of these wines remind me of anything else; all are clearly different from each other and of their place. They are also true to previous vintages but, I think, more amplified and precise. This producer understands and intends that terroir, however you define it, be present in its wines. Moreover, the textures here suggest that these wines have not been “fooled with;” rather, they are supple, clean, authentic, and, better still, seem to be “alive.” All too often I find myself compromising when it comes to Burgundy varietals vis-à-vis their current prices. Here, at last, are wines where no compromise is required. Each is a beautiful and faithful expression of the vintage, place and maker. My wife says these are the poor man’s DRC and I understand the reference. But these are more genuine than that; no attempt as been made to reproduce that which can not be reproduced; rather each are the essence of their unique vinous moment. God bless Aubert de Villaine. Best, Jim

2005 Monjardin, Chardonnay El Cerezo: Unoaked chardonnay from Navarra, Spain. I found that serving this chilled killed the fruit, emphasized a dirty edge to it and made the wine unpleasant. Warmed to room temp (not even cool) it was an entirely different wine; lemon curd and stones on the nose with light nutmeg, butterscotch and herb accents; thick bodied in the mouth with rich flavors that follow the nose, a bit of a dirty/musty/mineral tone and bracing acidity; a very long, crisp finish. An interesting wine and one of the few unoaked chardonnays outside of Chablis that I think is worth a second look. Probably needs a year or two (or more) in the cellar; left on the counter overnight without a stopper it was even more open and complex. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Winebow and about $11; I’d buy it again. (Aside: There were times when I was drinking this wine that I loved it; there were also times when I thought the mineral/dirt element was a flaw. And then there’s the fact that it’s so rich and yet has such powerful acidity. Right now, I’ll call it “interesting” and go find another bottle just to see if that’s what I’ll stick with.) 2005 Jean-Pierre et Jean-François Quénard, Chignin Anne de la Biguerne: No second thoughts about this beautiful Vin de Savoie from hand harvested, 65 year old jacquère vines grown on chalk and limestone soils; floral, alpine scents with white fruit and light spice notes; supple, texturally silky wine but with penetrating flavors that follow the nose, perfect balance and exquisite harmony. A charming wine by itself and a wonderful foil for pasta with shrimp and anchovy sauce. I am sad to see this last bottle go – but it was made to drink young and I enjoyed every sip. 12% alcohol, imported by Charles Neal Selections and about $10; I’d buy it again. 2005 Pardevalles, Prieto Picudo Gamonal: This is from the new DO (as of 9-2005) Tierras de León which is somewhat east of Bierzo in northern Spain. Prieto Picudo is a small berried, very dark indigenous grape and the Gamonal vineyard contains the oldest trellised vines of this variety. The wine smells of ripe plums, tannin and has a plowed earth, cinnamon, autumn leaves profile that is very enticing; it has the weight of good Burgundy, reminds me a little of Italy’s Etna Rosso wines in its overall delivery and has good structure, grip, ripeness, balance and focus while still being somewhat rustic; it finishes long with a hint of baker’s chocolate. 14% alcohol, imported by Frontier Wine Imports and about $14; I’d buy it again. (Aside: I think this is worth actively seeking out as it is from a unique grape and appears to be vinted honestly into an authentic wine of character. It is more than worth trying - impressive.) Best, Jim

Ah, you have learned grasshopper. Best, Jim

John, Thanks for the links. I know Tom and agree that he is both professional and respected. And his results are pretty much the way I feel about wine that has been frozen. Like him, I won't call it better or worse. But his experiment and my experience make it pretty clear that freezing changes the flavor profile of a wine substantially. Best, Jim

Jim, Through living...thinking out of the bottle...experience...embrace what you know not and you shall know... ← Well, I can certainly appreciate that. Nonetheless, my experience with wine that's been frozen lines up more with Mary's experience than yours. Best, Jim

John, Where do you get such information? Best, Jim

John, I find "saltiness" (as a descriptor for intense minerality) an interesting component of both red and white wine and acceptable if in balance with the fruit and other elements of taste. But if you are speaking of "salt," as if I shook a salt shaker over my wine, then I'd vote flaw. Best, Jim

1999 J.J. Prum, Riesling Spätlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr: A.P. #2 576 511 12 00; okay, that’s it – I have had enough of this producer. This house may make towering wines that age forever but I don’t have the patience and the amount of SO2 used here is beyond my tolerance. Somewhere underneath it all, there were brief moments when I could catch a scent or distinguish a flavor that wasn’t sulphered beyond recognition but it wasn’t worth the effort. 7.5% alcohol, imported by Valkenberg Intnl. and I’ve forgotten the price, although it really doesn’t matter; if they were giving the stuff away I wouldn’t want it. 2005 Abad Dom Bueno, Godello: The label describes this Bierzo white exactly: “Clear with a straw color and fresh herb, pineapple, and characteristic grapefruit aromas, lead into green spice and natural fruit flavors with bright acidity. The wine finishes with a soft, lingering citrus finish.” I’d add that it exhibits viscosity and is mouth-filling. Superb with tuna and white bean salad. 13% alcohol, imported by Frontier Wine and about $10; I’d buy it again. 2005 Daniel Dampt et Fils, Chablis: Mineral driven but with bright, honeyed lemon fruit, good concentration, taut structure and typicité. It changed over time; got tighter, became more complex and added an herbal element. Not your typical village wine, as it has much more in common with this producer’s premier crus than with other AOC Chablis. And, much like its stable mates, needs time in the cellar. Very good with grilled chicken and grilled veggies. BTW, this house is noted for its all stainless steel operation and wines that are true vin de garde. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Grantham Distributing and about $18; I’d buy it again. Best, Jim

Leroy In 2004, Lalou made a Bourgogne from declassified Pommard les Vignots, Savigny les Narbantons, Volnay Santentots, Corton-Renardes, Clos de Vougeot & Clos de la Roche. I am told, the reasons for this are two-fold; first, the weather made hand sorting mandatory and there was very little fruit worth keeping, and, second, she lost her husband just prior to harvest and was so distraught, she turned over winemaking duties to her staff and ordered the declassification. The wine is remarkable. It exhibits the building blocks for one of those out-of-body-only-Burgundy-can-provide experiences. It is also selling at more than $100/bottle (after being released closer to $65). But as much as I rail against expensive bottles and search for the QPR champs, this wine is something I went long on. How many times does one get to buy Leroy for this price, let alone have it be so richly endowed? Best, Jim

2005 F. Giachino, Abymes Tradition: Beautiful Vin de Savoie from the jacquère grape; scents of sarsaparilla and poached pear with hints of fresh air, flowers, resin, lime leaves and stones – a light but nuanced nose; much the same in the mouth with some sour cherry and bright acidity added to the mix yet its still textured like satin; medium length, integrated finish. Weightless in the mouth, 11% alcohol, fabulous with crackers and goat cheese, and, about $10; this is where I live. Imported by Eric Solomon; I’d buy it again. 2005 Dom. de la Janasse, Côtes du Rhône: 55% grenache, 25% syrah, 10% carignan, 5% cinsault and 5% mourvèdre; Expansive nose of meat, red fruit, herbs du Provenance and mineral – all beautifully integrated; rich and deep in the mouth without weight, balanced, flavors follow the nose, excellent concentration and harmony, finely textured, and fully ready to drink; long, integrated finish. I am not usually a fan of grenache or Châteauneuf (which is what this tastes like), but this is just delicious. 14% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $11; stealing at that price. 2005 Dom. de la Fruitière, Muscadet Petit M: Entry level Muscadet that sacrifices little to the single vineyard bottlings from this producer; ripe, full flavored, fresh and juicy, texturally smooth and plenty of cut with a long finish – what more could one want? Excellent with goat cheese and crackers. 12% alcohol, a Jon-David Headrick Selection and about $8; I’d buy it again. 2005 Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages: Lacking the concentration and purity of the crus, this still has plenty of flavor and is quite representative of the vintage. Fully ready to drink now and delicious with a pasta dish sauced with a purée of almonds, garlic, basil and fresh tomatoes. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Korbrand and about $9; I’d buy it again. Best, Jim

I don't know Mary; I always thought that alcohol was perceived as sweetness when tasting a wine (as well as its textural attributes). I don't think leaving RS behind would "balance out" the alcohol but rather amplify it (both texturally and in sweet taste). Best, Jim ← True to a point. But at high enough levels that sweetness is overwhelmed by heat in the finish. Higher levels of RS offset some of that heat. ← Craig, How high would it have to be before the RS is helpful? Or is that a variety by variety thing? Best, Jim

I don't know Mary; I always thought that alcohol was perceived as sweetness when tasting a wine (as well as its textural attributes). I don't think leaving RS behind would "balance out" the alcohol but rather amplify it (both texturally and in sweet taste). Best, Jim

2004 Victoria Valley Vineyards, Viognier Signature Series: My second vintage taste of this South Carolina raised viognier; this one is varietally correct, smoothly textured, well-balanced and bright. Not a great wine but a good one and it keeps the variety in check with lighter alcohol while still being fully ripe. 12.4% alcohol, and about $18; I might buy it again. 2005 Drouhin, Chablis: Correct for the variety and place, solid in delivery and well-balanced but nothing to inspire. Still, good chardonnay that isn’t blousy or over-oaked is not to be sneezed at. Really good with a mixed seafood grill. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Dreyfus Ashby and about $18; I’d buy it again. 2005 Dom. Diochon, Moulin-à-Vent Cuvée VV: Smells slightly over-ripe (raisins), tastes a bit flat but quite spicy and otherwise delivers the ’05 cru Beaujolais experience, that is, big fruit, solid structure and smooth textures. ‘Nothing to get excited about but certainly not a bad wine or one to be passed-up in a “what do we order off this list” restaurant situation. 13% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $17; I’d think twice before buying it again. 2005 Selectionnée par Kermit Lynch (Dom. Durban), Vin de Table Vaucluse (blanc): A blend of chardonnay and viognier with charming aromatics, excellent textures and fabulous minerality; this is not what I expect from an inexpensive blend – it is such a lovely use of viognier and the alcohol is only 13%. ‘Greatly enjoyed along side pasta with olives, broccoli and feta. Imported by Kermit and about $9; I’d buy it again. 2001 Quinta das Hidrângeas, Douro: Again a Portuguese table wine using the mix of port grapes without fortification; large, dark, tannic smelling wine that is not as tannic as expected (although still has grip) but is every bit as brooding and dark on the palate, slightly rustic and yet complex – maybe a bit tight at the moment. Interesting wine and good with grilled food. 14% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $20; I might buy it again (especially because I am enamored of the wines from this area). 2004 Dom. de Fontsainte, Corbières Reserve La Demoiselle: A fascinating wine; as complex a wine as I’ve had in awhile and still perfectly balanced; also a bit of a changeling with ripe fruit morphing to earthy tones, dusty in the mouth and on the finish yet still ripe and mouthwatering, and overall, a very clean, palate-lifting delivery. This is mostly old vine carignan with syrah and mourvèdre blended in and was exceptional with grilled chicken and grilled veggies. 13% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $11; I’d buy it again. Best, Jim

2006 Dom. de Fontsainte, Gris de Gris (Rosé): This dry rosé from Corbières smells of strawberry and persimmon with a mineral undertone; tastes full flavored and peppery with a satin texture and ripe fruit; and, is flavorful and bone dry on the finish. Excellent accompaniment to a salad with grilled chicken and very nice on its own, albeit shows young. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $11; I’d buy it again. 2006 Castaño, Yecla Rosé: Monastrell made pink and not especially pleasing; I think this got a dose of sugar – if not, the winemaker might want to think about a day job; syrupy and cloying, even over ice. For those who like very sweet rosé . . . and that’s not me. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $7; I would not buy it again. 2000 Alvear, Sherry Fino en Rama (375 ml): 100% Pedro Ximenez, this crisp, fresh wine has scents of yeasty bread dough, almond and white fruit; it’s bright, mouthwatering, a touch smoky on the palate and carries the flavors of the nose with intensity; and, it finishes long and bone dry. Served cold with smoked Gouda and nuts, it was perfect. Certainly not for everyone, but I very much enjoyed it. 15% alcohol, imported by Stacole, price unknown; I’d buy it again. 2004 Perrin, Côtes-du-Rhône Réserve: An expressive nose of meat, smoke, garrigue, red fruit and earth, nicely complex and open; less impressive in the mouth but still the flavors follow the nose and the balance is good – it just seems a bit washed out; decent length. Very easy to drink and food friendly as it went well with pasta with almond and fresh tomato sauce. 13% alcohol, imported by Vineyard Brands and about $8; I’d probably buy it again but would like to try other vintages to see if the flavor profile differs. 2004 Dom. Tempier, Bandol: As always, this Domaine produces wines of character, terroir and concentration; complex and enticing on the nose; deep, layered, ripe and balanced in the mouth and excellent length. Very Bandol. Beautiful with grilled sausages. Unfortunately, their prices are now beyond my reach. 11-14% alcohol (I’d guess this is on the high end), imported by Kermit Lynch and about $30. Much as I love the wine, I won’t spend that anymore. Best, Jim

Yes. Best, Jim