Florida Jim

Salad Nicoise: 1999 Dom. Dujac, Chambolle-Musigny: Opened last night this was completely closed – no smell, little fruit and no finish. We stuck the cork back in, left it on the counter until lunch today and then opened it. Praise Bacchus, what a difference! Full black raspberry, mineral, dark spice and unmistakable Chambolle nose; very concentrated in the mouth with excellent cut, flavors that follow the nose and that remarkable sense of place that Chambolle delivers in the hands of someone who “knows” – knows what they are doing and knows of what I speak. This wine is complex but integrated, harmonious and yet it shows well focused flavors and the finish is long, supple and shows its breeding. A pretty astounding change in about 15 hours and one that makes me think I will age these awhile – that and the fact that, at release, this was pretty oaky; now it shows very little influence from wood. 13% alcohol, imported by Wilson-Daniels and about $57 on release; worth it and then some – a grand cru-like experience.. Drinking this while eating the salad on the back porch on a clear, breezy, pristine 72 degree day here in the mountains of NC – ‘finest kind. Best, Jim

2000 V. Dauvissat, Chablis Les Clos: Clear, sweet lemon tones with mineral, fresh air and licorice notes all in harmony; viscous yet bright in the mouth, flavors echo the nose with several layers of each, and there is a savory note here . . . salted meat maybe . . . , perfectly integrated and balanced, supple but spicy on the tongue such that the mouth is both freshened and caused to water, depth, finesse and class; one of the most remarkable finishes I could imagine – endless, seamless and not only do the flavors persist in the mouth but the back of the throat, as well. Memorable now, heaven knows what it will be like later but it surely will go a very long time in the cellar. Utterly brilliant – when someone asks what grand vin Chablis should smell, feel and taste like, this is the answer. 13% alcohol, imported by Vineyard Brands and about $45 on release; worth multiples of that. Vincent Dauvissat is a genius. Served with a simple pasta with butter and fresh herbs; devine. Best, Jim

Sushi tuna roll first followed by a dish of rich noodles with Aduki beans and spicy peanut sauce: 1999 Nigl, Riesling Piri Privat: Twice the wine my last bottle of this was; penetrating nose of resin, white fruit, honey and flowers; rich in the mouth with crisp acidity, deep flavors, honeyed tones and excellent concentration – this echoes with layers of flavor; long, strongly flavored finish that leaves your mouth watering. A lovely wine, without question, and it has many years left in the cellar. 13% alcohol, imported by M. Skurnik and about $40, on release; I would definitely buy it again. Chosen for the spiciness of the sauce - ‘I done good.’ Not special with the sushi but memorable with the peanut sauced noodles. The honeyed tones shave the hottest notes off the spice and the flavors merge in a way that makes a relatively simple dish step-up into five star territory. One of the best pairings for this wine I have encountered. Sautéed mahi mahi with Diane’s version of gremolata sauce and roasted sweet dumpling (winter) squash: 2000 Louis Michel, Chablis Les Clos: Candied lemon peel and fresh air on the nose; concentrated, bright and viscous in the mouth with precise flavors that follow the nose, mineral accents and excellent balance; very persistent. Very close to V. Dauvissat’s Clos from this vintage – and that is saying something. 13% alcohol, imported by Vineyard Brands and about $42 on release; I wish I could find more at that price. Chosen to match the lemon in the sauce, this was perfect with the fish and adequate with the squash. The sauce and the wine were cut from the same cloth. Polenta with arugala and parmesan, and, grouper Mediterranean: 1999 Drouhin, Volnay Clos des Chênes: Both red and black fruit elements in the nose with mineral and candy bar smells; rich, stylish wine with depth, strong flavors, mineral accents, that Beaune firmness and a purity that is both seductive and loaded with finesse; very, very long, detailed finish. This wine has gained weight and complexity since release and is becoming all that fine Volnay can be. Almost hidden structure, powerful fruit, sustain to burn – and still classy and delicious. 13% alcohol, imported by Dreyfus-Ashby and about $42 on release; worth double or more. Chosen for the Mediterranean style of the entrée, it worked very well with the food. Adding nuance and flavor to the polenta and accenting the fish dish with exact balance. A very good match – and a stellar wine even without the meal. Best, Jim

Pasta with broccoli, olives, onions, roasted red peppers and feta: 1996 Pertinance, Langhe – damaged cork, damaged wine; dumped. 1995 Arroyo, Petite Sirah Res. – this wine has always been over-oaked and, at this age, the fruit can’t hold up to it anymore as the entire palate breaks down into sour-oak flavored grape juice; dumped. 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Moulin-à-Vent Les Deux Roches: Very dark and opaque; plums and dark berries predominate on the nose but there is an earthy, stony quality as well; meaty, intense and firm in the mouth but still an elegant overall impression with concentrated fruit/stone flavors, hints of spice, excellent balance and a detailed finish. Clearly of its place. 13% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $22; I bought a lot. (On day two, it was every bit as firm and intense but still showing more than at release. Not ready, of that there is no doubt, but a lovely wine with a terrific future.) After two missteps in selection I wanted to get something I knew would be good – and did. I also wanted to try this wine again, as at release it was quite tannic and did not show much. Although in needs time it is certainly showing in a better light and paired well with the dish. None of the various flavors of the ingredients fought with it and the balance of the wine’s flavors and those of the dish was pretty equal. Chicken and lentil stew: 2005 Raymond Quenard, Mondeuse Chignin: Although I think I like the refosco (Italy’s name for this grape) renditions of this better, this wine has a pungent raspberry/cranberry aroma with a stony/earthy/compost element – it makes for a complex but not altogether pleasant nose; much better in the mouth where the fruit is vibrant and the accents are mineral and stone, good complexity, acidity and balance in an elegant delivery; medium length, clean finish. A slightly damaged cork may have accounted for the difficulty with the nose. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $17 on release; I’d prefer to buy the Italian versions. Chosen because I saw leakage at the cork. Went very well with the dish as the flavors of the wine lent dimension to the stew but did not overwhelm it. Fresh figs, assorted cheeses and crackers: 1993 Sullivan, Merlot: A touch volatile and a shower curtain smell mixed in with ripe fruit smells and some bottle bouquet; medium weight in the mouth and completely resolved with solid fruit flavors and some secondary development, not especially complex, integrated and balanced; long in the mouth with no drying. For a wine that was once so tannic I couldn’t drink it, this is showing remarkably. A very nice although somewhat simple wine. 13% alcohol and about $45 on release; I’d not buy it again. Chosen on a whim and it worked. Good but not great pairing but the wine was stellar with the Stilton that was on the cheese plate. Best, Jim

I've heard that but have not yet experienced it. Any specific suggestions (especially in 2005)? Best, Jim

The four small producers most recognizable (mainly due to the wine press) are Marcel LaPierre, Guy Breton, Jean Foillard and Jean-Paul Thevenet. This “gang of four” regularly gets high 80 and low 90 point ratings from Parker and others. Other producers of note are Dom. Vissoux, Louis Jadot, Jean-Paul Brun, Diochon, Paul Janin, Michael Chignard, Dominique Piron, Chat. Thixin, Dom. Dupeuble, Dom. de la Voute des Crozes, Jean Calot, Pierre et Paul Durdilly, Dom. du Granit, Alain Michaud, Devignes, Savoye, Chanrion, Tete, Jacky Janodet, Souchons, Georges Viornery, Laurent Martray and Jean-Paul Ruet. I have also had excellent and age-worthy Fleuries from Coudert a/k/a Clos de la Roilette. Best, Jim

We spent several days with friends at the Outer Banks, in the town of Hatteras. I think it is safe to say that I am pleased to have seen it and never need to again. What once was a serious of quaint fishing villages are now acres upon acres of 6 bedroom “beach houses.” But the trip did three good things: it reminded me of the beaches of northeastern Florida, especially around St. Augustine, and rekindled my desire to go there (fortunately, they’re closer); it gave me a chance to eat the freshest seafood I have had in years; and, I got to drink some nice wine with some nice people. Quick takes on the wines: 2002 Allemand, Cornas: closing down; this may be an early drinker but it isn’t now. 2005 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie ‘Cuvee Tardive:’ Ah yes, no, make that AH YES! There is a reason I buy I case of this every year; showing quite well with years to go. 2001 Edmunds St. John, Los Robles Viejos: Complicated wine – sometimes generous, sometimes sneaking around on your palate, and every fourth or fifth sip, just great. Heaven knows where it’s going but I’m glad I’m along for the ride. 1992 Fonseca, Port: Stupid young. And as it so happens, it will get you stoopid. 2004 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: Cherries and dust; like a Greg Brown song when he’s happy (he is happy sometimes, isn’t he?). 2002 Huet, Vouvray Demi-sec ‘Le Haut Lieu:’ God awful. This might wind-up being great when I’m dead but it plain sucks now. Not what I expected – down the drain. 2000 J.P. Droin, Chablis ‘Vaudesir:’ Excellent upon opening with a floral note that just captured all your attention and focused it on the forthcoming plunge into minerals and citrus – but then the oak started to come into it and it became simply a good wine. 2004 and 2005 Dom. Pepiere, Muscadet ‘Clos des Briords:’ Any one who likes crisp and flavorful wine should seriously consider buying cases of these wines. Its cheap, it’s superb and it’s that way every vintage. 2001 Colloquy, Pinot Noir: This is the effort of the Westcoast Wine Network project from the Russian River Valley – well, it ain’t Burgundy but if more Russian River producers made wine like this, I’d buy it. A real sense of character and place with ripe fruit and good intensity – and excellent acidity. I would never have thought it but I am pleasantly surprised. 2006 Dry Stack Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc ‘Rosemary’s Block:’ We had this with fresh swordfish (as in caught within the hour) and it was the pairing I most enjoyed the whole week. The power of the wine was absolutely perfect with the richness of the fish. A meal I would love to repeat but that was my last bottle and we ain’t catchin’ swordfish in the mountains. 2005 Janesse, Cotes du Rhone: Nice grenache – those of you who know me know exactly what that means. 2004 Palacios, Bierzo ‘Petalos:’ Not its finest hour; I think these were probably made to drink younger and I will finish my remaining bottles quickly. Best, Jim

Left over coq au vin: 2004 A. et P. de Villaine, Bourgogne (rouge) La Digoine: I found this was leaking in the cellar and, rather than continue to age it as I will its brothers, I opened it; very clean, crisp aromas of red fruit and mineral; medium weight, crisp flavors follow the nose, excellent integration and texture; good length. Young to be sure, but much better than on release and showing no signs of damage. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $22 on release; seriously under priced. Chosen on heritage. Good but not great with the dish which seems to ask for Burgundy with a little age on it. Still, a tough argument to serve the meal with anything else. At dinner with friends, the following courses were served in this order; sautéed shrimp with lemon/butter sauce, fresh baby lima beans with mushrooms and feta, a potato and onion frittata: The following wines were served in this order: 2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées: This very full bodied for Muscadet with clean scents of mineral, citrus and white fruit; flavors that echo the nose with great cut, a satin texture and an endless finish. This wine never disappoints. 12%alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $8 on sale; I bought several cases and it still isn’t enough. 2004 A. et P. de Villaine, Bourgogne (blanc) Les Clous: A lightweight, easy drinking chardonnay with some depth and complexity and more length than expected. Needs time in the cellar but was a great alternative to so many ponderous chardonnays in the market these days. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $20; I’d buy it again. The Muscadet was superb with the dish; seafood and Muscadet is a no –brainer. It also went well with the bean dish although I preferred the Clous as it was lighter and had less body thus making a better balanced match. I had no Muscadet left when the frittata was served but the Clous was nicely balanced against it in the mouth and brought out some of the potato earthiness. All and all, good combinations with the Muscadet-shrimp pairing being outstanding. After the meal with cheese: 1990 Sullivan, Cabernet Sauvignon: A bit of VA (which blows off) and some shower curtain smells but aside from those, this is beautiful wine with great fruit, a fresh delivery, some bottle bouquet and development and a very long, saturated finish. On release, this was one of the most tannic wines I had ever tasted – it is nothing like that now as it has lovely balance and is not drying. Decanted off substantial sediment and really showing well. 13.2% alcohol and about $35 on release; I won’t buy it again but only because I don’t want to wait for 17 years for any wine. Best, Jim

Fried green tomato Napoleon with roasted red pepper sauce and chili cream cheese “glue”: 2006 Dry Stack Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc Rosemary’s Block: Fresh tropical fruit, some grapefruit and a little mineral; potent flavors follow the nose in a fleshy, satin textured delivery with good cut and sustain. A powerhouse sauvignon. 14.1% alcohol and about $20; I’d buy it again. Chosen because of the concentration and ripeness of the fruit in hopes that it would match the spicy aspect of the dish – it did. Each became more complex with the other and both were well balanced in the pairing. An excellent match. (Aside: The Napoleon was one of the messiest, most involved preparations I have ever seen but it’s also one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. Tomatoes were fresh from our garden.) Pasta with beets, beet greens, beans and feta: 2002 Alain Demon, Côte Roannaise La Perrière Reserve: Smoky, earthy gamay with a crisp mouth feel and plenty of depth and persistence. Very much in the Loire style for the grape and not Beaujolais. 12% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $12 on release; I’d buy it again. Chosen for its earthy elements and it went well with those same aspects of the dish. A peasant type dish and pairing but a very good one. Today, I helped Mark pack, move and unpack almost 100 cases of wine; destination, his new wine cellar. This evening, we were invited to partake of that cellar and Mark’s cuisine: Assorted cheeses and crackers: 1992 Vogue, Musigny (blanc): I have little experience with this wine but this bottle was fresh and more like Batard-Montrachet than any other white I have tasted; deep, rich, fresh, beautifully textured and perfectly balanced, this is an exquisite pleasure. I know this wine gets new oak but I could not taste it. 13% alcohol, imported by Dreyfus/Asheby and price unknown; thanks Mark. Exceptional with the dish and equally so without it. Coq au vin with white polenta and sautéed black kale: 1984 Leroy, Nuits-St. Georges Les St. Georges: Youthful, fresh, bordering on closed but a little time in the glass opened it up; very Nuits and retains the firmness that I so associate with the AOC - but still, it has a delicate, feminine side; a contradictory wine and hence, a wine to both contemplate and enjoy. 13% alcohol, importer and price unknown; thanks Mark. There’s a reason to drink great Burgundy with this dish – and this is it. Beyond words with the dish and each enhances the other exponentially. Fresh peaches with quince paste, fig cake and parmesan: 2001 Dönnhoff, Riesling Spätlese Oberhäuser Brücke: Lovely wine; honeyed yet lifted nose of white fruit, flowers, cherry pits and spice; texturally silken with flavors that follow the nose, plenty of cut, perfect balance and unbelievable sustain. 9% alcohol, importer and price unknown; thanks Mark. It is impossible to pick a better wine for this dish; simply impossible. Best, Jim

Pasta with spinach and chicken in a light cream sauce: 2001 Hirtzberger, Riesling Singerriedel: A honeyed, rich bouquet with white stone fruit and warm stone accents; deep, pure and rich in the mouth with good cut, intensity and sustain. A serious but delicious bottle. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Vin Davino and about $47 wholesale on release; I’d buy it again. Chosen to cut the cream sauce and soften the bite of the greens. It worked to do both but the flavors are not as good a match as I’d like. It’s good with the meal but not memorable. Pasta with chicken and pesto: 2002 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois Pupillin Poulsard: Pomegranate, earth, old clothes kind of nose – odd but interesting; initially a bit thin but it fleshes out over an evening and becomes a bright, lyrical wine with great complexity and sustain. Idiosyncratic and certainly not for everyone but, for me, this is knockin’ on heaven’s door. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $21; I bought plenty. 2004 Tenuta della Terre Nerre, Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana: Lifted red fruit aromas with melon and earth tones; medium weight and intensely flavored although it seems lighter in the mouth, layered, elegant and of medium length. Another unusual wine but one that captivates me. 14% alcohol, imported by Skurnik and about $30, full retail; I bought plenty. Both of these wines went well with the dish. The Rosso was the riper of the two and brought out a sweetness in the chicken. The Arbois was drier and seemed to enhance the pesto portion. Either would be a good choice but I would keep in mind that these are distinctive, character driven wines and will not be everyone’s glass of vino, with or without food. Roast pork, sweet potato soufflé and collards: 2003 L’hiver, Syrah: This is from Mendocino and a Copain product although that name does not appear on the label; plum and meat tones on the nose with some spice; fleshy in the mouth with flavors that echo the nose and show some oak, moderate concentration and length. A fairly straight-forward rendition with perhaps a touch too much wood – still a nice bottle. 14.1% alcohol and $28 in a restaurant; I’d buy it again. Went quite well with the meal and it surprised me that the collards didn’t fight with it. This wine clearly can go with a number of differing dishes; very versatile. Pasta with chick peas, onions and feta: 2002 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie: Expansive red fruit and talcum powder nose; deep, supple delivery that is layered, distinctive, well concentrated and balanced; long, clean finish. Sensational juice at a good place but I think this will have lots of good places during its life. 13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $15 on release; ‘wish I’d have bought more. Excellent with the dish as the flavors are not too intense for a fairly plain dish and the textures match well. Also mighty fine without food. Best, Jim

Quick sips: 1999 Trimbach, Riesling Cuvée Fredric Emile: Nice. Petrol and white fruit nose, good complexity and length. Much better than at first release. 2003 Puffney, Arbois: Nicer. Rich and complex on the nose; layered and powerful in the mouth and very long. Not your Momma’s poulsard but delicious drinking. 1999 Jaboulet-Aine, Cornas: Uninspired. Varietally correct, of its place yet still, hollow and of little interest. Just not well made. 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Cuvée Traditionelle: Although still showing young, it’s a fresh, clean burst of fruit with enough backbone to warrant keeping a few bottles for next year (or beyond). Excellent wine. 2005 Bouland, Morgon VV: Tannic but balanced and somewhat closed; as the night wore on it opened some; a bottle that deserves several years in the cellar. Best, Jim

Tomato and mozzarella salad: 1996 J.P. Droin, Chablis Les Clos: Lemon drop nose with mineral accents and some bottle bouquet; solid in the mouth, flavors follow the nose, texturally smooth but seems to fade over the evening; medium length finish. Showing no signs of oxidation but seeming to be just past its peak. 13% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and price unknown; thanks Nathan. Very good with the dish; the flavors mesh well and the acidity of the dish does not overwhelm or detract from the wine. The wine comes across ‘cleaner’ with the food. Pasta with summer squash in parmesan cream sauce: 2005 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Bassetti Vineyard: Barrel sample-like on the nose, very primary but unmistakably west coast syrah; structured, deep, young and textured like satin in the mouth, good balance and plenty of concentration; long, slightly gritty finish. Not especially layered or complex at present – it shows very, very young. Also good with the meal; the wine is lively and almost flamboyant with the food and the cream sauce shows well against the wine’s vibrancy. Composed plate of sausage, sautéed eggplant, Tzatziki, fresh tomatoes, hummus, feta and Naan: 2005 Pilippe Faury, St. Joseph: Purple color; expansive aromatics of plum, meat, ash and mineral (reminiscent of Côte-Rôtie); medium bodied but quite complex and texturally smooth, flavors follow the nose, excellent balance and good concentration; long, detailed finish. About as good as the appellation produces. 12.8% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $25; for all intents and purposes, Côte-Rôtie for $25 – a no brainer. Chosen for the provincial flavors of the dish this wine was a great match As it added complexity without subtracting the food’s flavors and was nicely balanced in weight and delivery. (We also had one glass of the ’05 ESJ Syrah mentioned above and it had become more integrated and layered, less flamboyant and a more complete experience. I hesitate to call it more ‘French’ as I think it will always carry its west coast stamp, but it certainly is more old world in style.) After dinner: 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie: George had joined us for dinner and had not tried this. It was as it always is, out of this world wine – fresh, fragrant, lip-smacking, life-affirming juice and good with or without food. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; I bought lots. Best, Jim

Nathan and Evie stopped by on their trek west: Gazpacho: 2005 Edmond Vatan, Sancerre Clos la Néore: Initially, quite angular but after time in the glass the grassy aromas fade out, the fruit takes over and the texture smoothes; a beautiful bottle sauvignon with at least a short term shelf life. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Wine Cellars, Ltd. and about $42; actually worth it. Excellent with the soup. Summer squash salad: 2004 Rhys, Chardonnay: Massive wine; concentrated, intense, very young, oaky and without question, of California origin. Not my style. 14.6% alcohol price unknown; not for me. Thanks Kevin. Too much wine for the dish. Anchovy, onion, olive, feta and parmesan tart: 1988 Verset, Cornas: Complex, resolved, feminine and yet slightly sauvage; this is terrific Cornas filled with character, nuance and persistence – a great wine, at peak. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and price unknown; spectacular juice! Thanks Nathan. Beyond perfect with the dish. Assorted cheese: 1995 Barthod, Bourgogne: Firm and focused; lovely aromas and strongly flavored, this shows very young but also above its AOC. ‘Makes me wonder how long my ‘99’s will require in the cellar. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and price unknown. Thanks Nathan. Good with the cheeses. Best, Jim

Pasta with grilled eggplant, cooked tomatoes and feta: 2002 Terres Dorees, Beaujolais L’Ancien VV: Although showing young, this already tastes more of pinot than gamay; plenty of black fruit, some poop and spice on the nose; similar in the mouth with a satin delivery and plenty of cut; medium length, well-balanced finish. Very pretty wine with a long life ahead of it. 11% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $12, on release; I’d buy it again. Good with the dish; complimented the cheese and pasta substance and did well against the tomato acidity. A good match. A ragout of white beans, spinach, garlic and onions with sausage: 2002 Baumard, Savennières: and 2001 F.X. Pichler, Riesling Reserve M: I’m not certain what’s going on here but the riesling came on like a dessert wine, all honeyed, cloyingly sweet and not especially well structured. Put in the fridge overnight, it displayed more cut and crisp but remained pretty sweet. This is not anything like it showed over the last several years when it was round but full of verve and had a substantial acid backbone. I suppose this showing may be some variation on the wine ‘closing down’ but most times when a wine shuts down, I get a lot more of the structure and less of the fruit and texture. An odd showing to be sure. 13% alcohol, imported by Vin Davino and about $55 wholesale on release; I’d not buy it again. Abysmal with the dish. The Baumard was bright and cheery with chenin aromas and a freshness that reminds me of a barrel sample. Medium weight, clean, more open than expected, not especially deep but delightful to taste. 13% alcohol, imported by Ex Cellars and about $20 on release; I’d buy it again. Good with the dish as it stood up to the strong flavors of the sausage and spinach and cut the richness of the beans, without losing its own identity. Obviously, the better choice. Broccoli/shrimp stir-fry on rice noodles with peanut/ginger/chili oil sauce: 2001 Egon Müller, Riesling Kabinett Scharzhofberger: A delicate pretty wine but a bit thin, even by itself. Easy to drink. 8% alcohol, imported by Wildman, AP# 142-3-02 and about $25 on release; I’d not buy it again. Lost with the dish; it was wet and slightly sweet but almost flavorless alongside the meal. I grabbed the last of the F.X. Pichler mentioned above and it was much better and had shed some of its sweetness here on day three. At least it had enough concentration and intensity to stay with the food and what sweetness was left was good counter-point to the heat of the chili oil. Best, Jim

A composed plate of hummus, tomatoes, feta, sausages, Tzatziki and pita bread: 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie: Perhaps my tenth (or so) note on this wine; I think it is shedding a bit of its initial flamboyance in favor of the feminine lilt of its Fleuire-ness but still, a lovely beverage that I am more than pleased to have in my glass. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; God’s gift to wine lovers. Good with the meal but not great; the flavors meld, the balance is good but the enhancement factor is missing. Still, I am drinking my favorite wine, the food is good and my wife has returned from her trip – what’s not to like? Eggplant (fresh from the garden), feta, tomato (fresh from the garden) sauce casserole, and, pasta with EVOO and thyme (fresh from the garden): 1995 Caprai, Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni: Since release, one of the most brutally tannic wines I have encountered; today it is still tannic but the tannins show like a talc of unsweetened chocolate and the fruit is black, deep, earthy and ever so slightly tinged with a vinyl smell (which dissipates); a rich wine and, for maybe the first time since release, more than palatable. 13.5% alcohol, importer unknown and about $70, on release; one of those wines that I regret ever becoming involved with – except for today, when it tastes good, has resolved to show something other than a crushing wall of tannin and pairs with the food as well as any wine possibly could – no chance I buy this again. A killer match! The tannins melt into the sauce of the casserole, the flavors come alive and become layered, the dish seems to use the wine as a jumping off point to greater complexity and the total is more than its several parts. Astounding to me and Diane is very pleased – welcome home. Smoked salmon spread and crackers: 1999 Hamacher, Pinot Noir: Very young, Chambolle-Musigny, premier cru (from Oregon) – I can go on but that’s what it is and there isn’t much more to say. So, it’s not very ‘of its place’ but it is very good and it should stay unopened for at least 5-10 years. 13% alcohol and about $38 on release; I’d buy it again. Not a good match but tolerable. The wine, however, is worthy of great praise, even enjoyed by itself. (Aside: the very best 1999 Oregon, pinot noirs are very, very young and should not be opened for at least 5 years (probably more). If this isn’t the most long-lived vintage in Oregon, I have no idea what is.) Best, Jim

Pasta with marinara sauce with a little cream mixed in: 2004 A. et P. de Villaine, Bourgogne (blanc) Les Clous: A truly lovely chardonnay; no oak, no RS, no spoof; plenty of varietal flavor, plenty of structure, good balance and a nice crisp finish. Exhibits none of the ills of the vintage (maybe the Côte Chalonnaise did better?); fresh and lively. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $20, on release; back up the truck. I had an open bottle in the fridge so I tried it. A really terrific match and one I would never have expected. The cream in the sauce gives it a lactic note and calms the tomato acidity. This wine works very well against that lactic note and harmonizes with those softer flavors. This is not a pairing I would have thought a good idea but it’s a dandy. ‘Learn something new every day. Smoked salmon spread and crackers: 1999 Thomas, Pinot Noir: Translucent, pale garnet; underbrush, gun powder, cranberry and wet stones on the nose – complexity to burn and some bottle bouquet; lightweight, smooth, integrated but layered flavors follow the nose and add brown spice and raspberry accents, good depth and great cut, some grip, an elegant and silky texture; and - here’s where the miracle happens – the finish expands in the mouth so that the flavors and complexity grow stronger on the extended finish. I have had very few wines where the flavors became stronger on the finish – I wonder how one does that. Idiosyncratic and not for everyone but one of my favorite pinot noirs from anywhere. 13% alcohol and about $32.50, on release; worth multiples of that. Chosen because I wanted a data point on my bottles. I have not had much luck with salmon and pinot lately but this combination is astonishing. The wine seems to grow bigger and smoother with the food but not so large as to overwhelm. Quite the opposite, as the smoked salmon flavors become more delineated and interesting. It’s like watching Dwayne Allman and Eric Clapton as twin lead guitars; each driving the other to new heights but never losing the song – a pairing to remember. (Aside: And speaking of remembering; I had the pleasure of visiting with John Thomas at his winery many years ago. He is a reclusive sort and I was there alone. We tasted this wine out of barrel (and the 2000) and spoke of other vintages, his vineyard and his lengthy search to find the exact piece of ground he finally bought and planted. It was one of those quiet moments when we could simply relax, chat and enjoy. I will treasure it always.) (The data point: not at peak but approaching it and showing sufficient secondary development that opening a bottle now is not a bad idea. I tried to compare the taste with other major pinot growing areas and I came up lacking – this is Oregon pinot, to be sure, but it is John Thomas’ and his vineyard; to the exclusion of all else.) Best, Jim

Yep, maybe more. BTW, the 2005 VV is outstanding, although equally in need of time in the cave. Best, Jim

Grilled top round steak: 2001 Mayr-Nusser, Lagrein Riserva Südtiroler: Moderate aromatics of cold stone, herb, turned earth, blackberry and very light hints of red fruit; velvet in the mouth, flavors follow the nose, medium bodied, beautifully balanced, complex, character driven and slightly grippy; medium length finish. My first lagrein but not my last; a really excellent bottle of wine that keeps me coming back to the glass. 13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $24; I’m on the hunt – thanks Steve. Chosen on a whim. Not an especially good match although not a bad one. I think this would be terrific with marinara sauced food and will try it that way soon. Pasta with mushroom marinara: First I tried the lagrein with it and it worked to perfection but I ran out so I tried the 2001 Dom. Bouchard, Volnay Caillerets, Ancienne Cuvée Carnot: Sweet oak and black fruit on the nose, not especially complex although it does have a mineral accent; pretty deep in the mouth, black fruit and stone flavors, a little too much oak sweetness, some complexity, plenty of concentration; medium length, somewhat drying finish. Too much wood for now but the concentration and depth give me some hope for the future (although the drying on the finish doesn’t inspire). 13.5% alcohol, imported by Clicquot, Inc. and about $25, on sale; I might buy it again at that price. Chosen on a whim and not a bad match but nothing to make me want to do it again. At least the wine lost a bit of its oak to the dish and seemed to fit well on texture and weight. Pan-fried, center cut pork chops with red wine reduction: 2002 Joël Taluau, St.-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil VV: A cabernet franc that could not possibly come from the New World and, unfortunately, one that, even after 24 hours in the decanter, is still very closed; violets, raspberries, mineral, bell pepper and the lovely odor of a cascading stream; precise in the mouth with perfect balance, flavors that follow the nose but add a kind of crushed mint or ivy tone, excellent intensity and plenty of structure; long, very clean finish with grip. Opening this today was a mistake (it needs a minimum of 5 years in the cellar) but one I can live with; showing its promise. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Fruit of the Vine, Inc. and about $20 on release; I’d buy it again. Hold. Very, very good with the dish. Ample cut against the reduction and plenty of complex flavors to accent the succulence of the pork. But I would venture that this wine would be even better with lamb where its complexity would be emphasized even more and its herbaceous elements would find harmony. Best, Jim

With assorted cheeses: 2006 Drystack Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc Rosemary’s Block: As always, a distinctive, full flavored wine with a solid mineral underpinning and no cat pee or grassy smells and flavors. Tropical but with cut. 1959 Hospice de Nuits St. Georges, Nuits St. Georges 1’er Cru: Beef broth, celery, and soy on the nose with only a hint of fruit; more fruit on the palate which is pillowy in the mouth but still well structured; medium length finish. A wine that changed in the glass over the course of the evening but did not fall off. More intellectual than hedonistic but I’m very glad to have had the chance. With tomato and mozzarella salad: 2003 Emidio Pepe, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo: Quite oxidized on the nose but some of that seems to disappear over time; strongly flavored with good cut and intensity – right now, more a curiosity than a delight. But very good with insalata caprese. With steak and mushrooms, etc.: 1986 Laurel Glen, Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain: Fell short of several previous bottles but still delivered an aged cabernet profile and good structure. Too bad; when this is on, it is exceptional. 2002 Allemand, Cornas: So very Cornas and so very Allemand. So this is a ‘bad’ vintage, eh? Hah! 1998 Dom. Tempier, Bandol: Every time I have a wine from this producer I wonder why I do not own more. Salty, meaty, full flavored wine with sustain, balance and character. Superb. After dinner: 1994 Fonseca, Vintage Port: Very, very young and primary (almost a barrel sample) but packed, stuffed and otherwise crammed with flavors and lip-smacking deliciousness. Hold. Many thanks to Steve and Barb for entertaining me while I ‘batch it.’ Best, Jim

Squash salad: 2004 Pepière, Muscadet Clos des Briords: The wine is bright, crisp, lightly saline, bursting with juicy flavors underscored by terrific cut and remarkably long. Fresh, complex, beautiful wine. Imported by Louis/Dressner and about $13 on release; one of the best values in the world today. Chosen because a recent Chablis did well with this salad and I thought this might work also. It did and probably better than the Chablis as it cut across the fresh fruit flavors and bolstered the lemon/oil dressing. A lovely pairing and so light and fresh in the heat. A pasta casserole with comté and wild mushrooms: 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie: My Mom has not had a chance to taste this wine and since it is my favorite and her birthday (83), now seemed a good moment. I have written a lot of notes about this wine, all glowing and this bottle was no exception. Suffice to say, as good as it gets. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20. Chosen because I read somewhere that mushrooms and Beaujolais are usually good (and because I wanted Mom to try it); a superb pairing. There is a nutty-sweetness in the cheese and the fruit here matches it well. Also the savory character of the mushrooms brings out some of the savory aspects in the wine that are usually hidden in its youth. Another great combo. Amy’s olive and mushroom pizza: 2004 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore: Cherries, sandalwood and earth tones; medium weight, bright, integrated and somewhat gritty (in a good way) with nice sustain. A bit young but still a charming wine. Chosen on heritage. A good match but not a great one; this is too much wine for the simplicity of the food – something I really didn’t think could happen. To me, simple food deserves your most complex and extraordinary wine – just not this time. (Aside: Diane is out of town for ten days so I am resorting to my own devices; hence the dinner choice. I know folks who revel in an opportunity to be on their own when their spouse is gone. I’m not one of them. And it ain’t the food.) Best, Jim

I had one (forgotten which); it was not my style - way pumped up. Best, Jim

Allan and Shirley came for a visit toting goodies and we did our best to enjoy a cool evening’s repast out on the porch. With a variety of cheeses, sausages and crackers: 2004 Bessin, Chablis Valmur: Although it has a touch of green (likely from the vintage) this delivers intensity and typicité in a fleshy and texturally smooth package. 13% alcohol and imported by Kysela Père et Fils. 2001 Knoll, Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Vinothekfüllung: About as fine and concentrated as the variety can produce. Full bodied, incredible depth, intense and utterly of its place. Sensational wine. 14% alcohol and imported by Vin Divino. 2001 Clavelier, Corton VV Le Rognet: I thought it slightly corked; Allan thought it slightly off but not corked – either way, not its best showing. 13.5% alcohol and imported by Martine’s Wines. With a summer squash salad: 2000 Raveneau, Chablis Montée de Tonnerre: Still slightly closed, although it opened nicely in about half an hour, this is beautiful, strongly flavored Chablis with saline hints and great acidity. Hard to beat. 13% alcohol and imported by Kermit Lynch. With pasta with a purée of fresh tomatoes and almonds: 1966 Leroy, Corton: Full resolved (something I can rarely say of Corton), ethereal, complex and showing wonderful secondary development. At peak and quite marvelous. 13% alcohol and imported by Leroy, Inc. 1995 Clape, Cornas: Funky at first but as it opened it became a rich, terroir driven syrah with loads of nuance and a substantial mouth-feel. Terrific young wine. 13% alcohol and imported by Kermit Lynch. With more of the cheeses, etc.: 1999 Giacosa, Barolo Falletto: Too young but quite a mouthful of wine; deep, layered, powerful nebbiolo from the master. 13.5% alcohol and imported by Locascio. 2003 Dom. Tempier, Bandol: A worsted texture, loads of flavor and so clearly of its place that it would be hard to guess it as anything else. Young but delicious. 11-14% alcohol and imported by Kermit lynch. 2003 Puffeney, Poulsard Arbois: A rich example of the variety and showing the nuance and uniqueness of the grape and the Jura. A lovely drop. 13.5% alcohol and imported by Rosenthal. Best, Jim

Turkey sandwiches: 2002 Clos Roche Blanche, Gamay: Still some burnt stem on the nose but the wine has gained weight and texture since release and is full of red fruit flavors. Another year or so in the cellar won’t hurt. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $12; I have plenty. Good with the food as the stemmy notes disappeared and the fruit paired well against the turkey. First, a raw zucchini salad with olive oil, lemon juice, basil and garlic; second, pasta with shrimp in sun-dried tomato purée: 2004 A. et P. de Villaine, Bourgogne Les Clous: One perfectly balanced, beautifully nuanced bottle of chardonnay sans wood. I love this wine and think it stands as proof that this house can do wonders with vines from the Côte Chalonnaise. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $20, on release; worth multiples of that price. Chosen because I knew it would not be heavy, this was exquisite with the food; allowed the delicate flavors of the zucchini salad to come through, stood well against the lemon and cut the tomato purée without sacrificing its flavors. A superb pairing and a great wine. Grilled chicken breast, marinated chick-pea salad and tomatoes with EVOO and basil: 2000 Hamacher, Pinot Noir: A bit candied and oaky on the nose but also solid red fruit and spice; the same on the palate with depth, crunchy fruit flavors, intensity and good length. Not the wine it was on release when it was much more ethereal. 13% alcohol and about $40 on release; I’d not buy it again. Better with the food than expected as the caramelized parts of the chicken took away the oaky/sweet notes in the wine and the flavors of the wine went very nicely with the poultry and chick-peas. Best, Jim

David, I'm stumped. I have never had a dish that remotely resembles the one you're describing and I have not the faintest idea what I'd try with it. But please, tell us how it works out, no matter what you choose. Best, Jim

Carrot-ginger soup: 2005 Cakebread, Sauvignon Blanc: Somewhat generic but pretty sauvignon with no cat pee or grassy scents or flavors and lightly lifted white fruit. A nice bottle off a restaurant list; details unknown. Came alive with the soup, which was cream based and quite spicy. The wine cut through cream, sparkled with the sweetness of the carrots and took just the hottest edge off the ginger, yet it never took center stage. A superb pairing. Manchego cheese: 1994 Fisher Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon Lamb Vineyard: This wine could have been special; it has rich but focused flavors of blackberry and cassis, a lovely mineral streak and was well balanced, but the oak, which was sour at times, intruded on every sip. Some may feel the oak ‘framed’ the wine; but this is too big a frame and unpleasant. And after 13 years, I doubt the oak signature will ever be less. A shame; just one bad choice spoiled a very good wine. 13% alcohol and about $50, on release; no thanks. Even the cheese couldn’t help. I’m just guessing here, but if one charred the skin of a wild boar, maybe this wine would pair. Stir fried veggies and tofu on rice noodles with yellow curry: 2002 François Cazin, Cour-Cheverny Cuvée Renaissance: Honeyed white fruit and minerals; vinous in the mouth with flavors that echo the nose, slightly off-dry, cutting acidity, lovely balance and a long finish. A long way from peak but a mighty nice time to catch it with this meal. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $18 at release; more than worth it. Chosen because the off-dry nature of the wine might work with the curry – it did. Moreover, the flavors of the wine were not lost to the curry’s heat nor were the flavors of the stir-fry lost to the wine; everything blended well. Excellent pairing. Grilled Naan with cheese: 2000 Copain, Pinot Noir Hein Vineyard: Oaky and candied on the nose and in the mouth with unfocused flavors in the black fruit range, some spice and an ever so faint hint of the crunchy fruit I often get from Anderson Valley pinots. This has not done well in the cellar as it was more character driven and less sweet earlier in its life; drink up. 14.2% alcohol and about $40 on release; I’d not buy it again. To over the top for the food. Best, Jim