Florida Jim

Dining at Lotus of Siam in Las Vegas is one of those experiences everyone should have. Humble in appearance, stereotypical in atmosphere but the best Thai food one can imagine and a great wine list. The 2001 Dönnhoff, Riesling Auslese Oberhäuser Brücke GK in 375 ml was a treat; our waiter had a taste and said it gave him goose bumps; we agreed. Although we had hoped to have the Hermannshöhle bottling in this vintage after David Bueker’s note recently, they were out of it when we arrived. While this may have many years to peak, it was racy, fresh and very complex. And perfect with the food. No doubt, wine geeks expect other wine geeks to break-out “the best” on special occasions. Stepping into one’s 6th decade might just be considered one of those. But special doesn’t have to mean expensive and I chose the 2005 Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie which was all I could hope for. Even better now then at release and lending credence to a fact reported by others; that the 2005’s are coming around quicker than expected. We had it with crackers and cheese but it didn’t need anything – just a great bottle of Fleurie with depth and dimension. Of course, sitting on the porch at the lodge in Zion National Park while drinking this made the experience all the richer; may all your birthdays be so special. Best, Jim

Agreed. Unfortunately, those prices will make it a pretty limited sampling as to quality. As for Greg; I think it is fair to say that anything on his website is meant to be promotional, hence, comments about his leadership at Flowers may be taken with a grain . . . I know first hand that several of the winemaking decisions there were not entirely within his perview; Walt and Joan were not absentee owners. At Tandem, of course, all decisions are his so, when evaluating his work, that is a truer measure. And John, although neither Russell or Greg make many wines that are to my taste (their's is a bigger, richer, more textured style than I prefer), both make wines that their customers (or future customers) seem to enjoy. Considering the place where they work and the cost of living day to day in CA wine country, I do not fault them their choices. I just don't buy many of their wines. And to me, rockstars are rockstars and winemakers are winemakers. Period. Best, Jim

Diane made hash out of onions, garlic, potatoes, white beans, tomatoes and Swiss chard and then grilled some chicken sausages and sliced them into the hash. We turned the air-conditioning down low (a simulated FL winter for such cold weather fare) and opened the 2002 Allemand, Cornas, which was brilliant with the meal. It’s smoky, meaty and terroir driven (although sometimes I wonder if that terroir is Cornas or Allemand) with a worsted texture, excellent grip and complexity, and, a long, mouthwatering finish. Perhaps, not a wine for long-term aging but this will surely develop over the next ten plus years if I can keep my hands off. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $35. We don’t finish many bottles in one sitting these days, but we did this one. I would buy this again at the price. To accompany grilled chicken with spinach pesto, grilled asparagus and wild rice we chose the 2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées, which started out its usual approachable and lithe self but tightened-up during the next hour or so. One of my favorite white wines, this has depth, cut, gradations of flavor and texture, and, a freshness akin to recently bleached sheets. But I think this is starting to close down a bit so I will hold my stash for a couple years. Very nice with the food; its 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $7 on sale – I bought a lot but still, not enough. On day two this was more generous, supple and had a distinct white pepper tone that’s really attractive. I would buy this again at twice the price – or more. The 2005 Philippe Colin, Bourgogne was our choice along side pasta with olives, veggies, feta and pine nuts and it was a delightful match. This wine has substance, especially for its designation, but it is also beautifully balanced and sappy. Expansive nose of mostly dark fruit, satin textured and mouth-filling and a longer than expected finish. A concentrated wine without being intense or over-bearing and ready now. 12.8%, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $15. On day two and three, this continues to develop with deep, etched fruit, good grip and evolving balance; it’s even more compelling on day three. I would buy this again at the price and its worth even more. The best under $20 bottle of pinot I have tasted in quite some time. Grilled chicken with spinach pesto again to night (this is really good stuff) with mashed potatoes and peas lets us try out the 2005 Rafeal Palacios, Louro Do Bolo, which is godello from the Valdeorras region of Spain. Scented with lime, honey, resin, cream soda and a bitter almond element which carries through on the palate, it’s viscous, full flavored and the bitter almond note really carries the wine through its long finish. Sensational with the meal and still very interesting afterwards. 13% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $13. I would buy it again at the price. Among friends we opened the N/V Eric Bordelet, Poiré Granit, a sparkling pear cider. It certainly smells and tastes of pears and has a dry, almost crisp quality to it that keeps it from cloying but ultimately, this is a little too much (read too sweet) for more than a single glass. 4% alcohol, imported by Jon David Headrick Selections and about $20. I would not buy it again. Best, Jim

John, Russell Bevan (mentioned in the article) is a good friend. I go to CA each year to help him out at crush and have seen his meticulous methods and tasted every vintage (at many different stages) of the wines he has made. I have no idea if he was born with those skills but I can tell you that his devotion to his task is all consuming and his sense of detail beyond most folk's comprehension. Maybe he was born with that - and that bodes well for his wines. Best, Jim

I talked to David Bueker about it (heaven knows he has more German wine than anyone else in the U.S.) and he says just wait 5 years to get the baby fat off of it. But he too thinks the declass is the reason it shows as it does today. Best, Jim

2005 J.J. Christoffel, Riesling Kabinett Erdener Treppchen: A little more than off-dry if you ask me but it has good acidity, decent minerality and lovely, floral fruit. Its fun to drink but only in small doses as I think the sweetness is a little more than the prädikat can bear. A.P. 2-602-041-003-06, 9% alcohol, imported by Michael Skurnik and price unknown. 2000 Hamacher, Pinot Noir: Day one: very dark aromatics, slightly closed, some smoke scents; smoky and black fruited palate with glimpses of depth but little verve or juiciness; medium finish. Not it’s best showing but it does seem closed down. Day two: still dark but more black raspberry than black hole and not as smoky; juicier fruit on the palate with a brightness that wasn’t there yesterday and a more open, generous palate displaying good depth and density; longer in the finish. What a difference a day makes! Do not open this wine now. It needs a couple years to sort itself out but it has everything required or desired to be marvelous when it does reemerge. 13% alcohol and about $40 on release. 2004 Dom. Leroy, Bourgogne: It’s hard to put into words what this wine delivers. There is immense character on the nose with an aged Burgundy smell that is both alluring and astonishingly complex; although not fully open on the palate, its deep, focused, character driven, balanced and nuanced; very long and layered. This bottling (a “domaine” in this vintage) contains grapes from Pommard "Vignots", Savigny "Narbantons", Volnay "Santentots", Clos Vougeot, Clos de la Roche and Corton-Renardes and none of those appellations will be bottled by themselves in 2004. The most impressive young Burgundy I have tasted and one that shows both a youthful firmness and a mature aromatic profile. Memorable wine, to say the very least. About $70 on release, this is already selling for $100 or more. And here’s the kicker; it’s easily worth it! 1998 Lafarge, Bourgogne: Another black hole type of wine on day one; a little fruit peeking through but mostly about structure. On day two, its what I’d asked for; solid black fruit with red fruit accents, some spice and a nice supple texture. Distinctly Burgundy and substantial. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $15 on sale. 1999 Chevillon, Nuits-St.-Georges Les Pruliers: The blackest of black holes; very firm and not giving much on either the nose or palate; structure to go a very long time, I’d say but opening this now was a mistake. About $42, on release. Best, Jim

Along with pasta with red sauce and sausages, I opened a 2004 Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo Pétalos remembering how, a year ago, it was vibrant, juicy and aromatic. Now, it’s as though the wine were a painting that the wood frame has started to eat. It still has solid flavors and is recognizable as Bierzo but the patina of oak deadens the nose and palate to the extent that I’m starting to think that aging may be a mistake. Perhaps, its only closing down (although the acid and tannins still seemed in balance) and a little more time will let it reemerge. But this is the low-end bottling and I don’t have sufficient experience with this producer to make an educated guess. A disappointment although I’m sure many folks less sensitive to oak would still enjoy it and it was adequate with the meal. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Vieux Vins, Inc. and about $16. Diane grilled some chicken sausages served with mustard and cheese as a first and then made pasta with zucchini and parmesan; both were extremely tasty. I pulled a 1999 Texier, Côte Rôtie VV and it was a terrific match for both dishes. Its got all the typical terroir attributes; olive, smoked meat, herbs and red fruit but they are all delivered in a mélange on the nose and palate. It’s focused, stream-lined and well balanced with good cut and excellent persistence. Always one of my favorite northern Rhône wines, it’s not at peak but its still very good, and, it’s exemplary Côte Rôtie. 13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $64 full retail on release. Chicken stir-fry for dinner with the 2004 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino was a good match. This is single-vineyard garganega that never sees wood and it is still deep, supple, very spicy/peppery and long. As a bonus, an underlying minerality keeps everything focused and together. Bright, fresh wine that is both complex and juicy. Simply terrific with the meal. 13% alcohol, imported by Palm Bay Imports and about $17. Best, Jim

2000 J.P. Droin, Chablis Vaudésir: Served with grilled chicken breasts, this was delicious. Reticent but floral nose with some chardonnay aromas and hints of stone; fleshy on the palate with solid fruit and mineral flavors, spicy accents and a beautiful, silky texture; long, clean finish. The more I taste wines from this vineyard the more I think this is the pinnacle of what chardonnay can be. Classy, supple, lightly floral and mineral infused with a focused delivery and all the finesse this grape is capable of but so rarely achieves. Excellent with the meal and although it’s in no danger of fading, it certainly could use a few more years in the cellar. 13% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and $38, on release. 2002 Chidaine, Montlouis Les Choisilles: Served with sautéed swordfish with caper sauce; an excellent match. Expansive, powerful, penetrating aromatics that are mostly fresh, ripe quince, hints of lemon zest and honey; earthier/stonier on the palate but very expressive and intense, substantial, tart and potent fruit, good balance; and, extremely persistent. This is young chenin in one of its open but as yet undeveloped periods and clearly of its place. 12.5% alcohol, Imported by Dionysos Imports and about $16 on release. 1998 Vieux Télégraph, Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Two bottles were opened, as the first was ever so slightly corked. The comparison was fascinating because we couldn’t taste the corkiness in the first but the wine was stripped of fruit and a mass of bitter tannin. The second was bright and aromatic with tar and red fruit scents but even more complex on the palate with dried herb accents and some underlying minerality. The structure was still evident in the second but it was balanced against the fruit and had a sweeter, cleaner feel to it. The comparison was certainly instructive and, despite that I have little use for CdP, a mourvèdre based one was a delicious exception. The second bottle was served with a dish of whole wheat pasta with walnuts and ricotta salata which matched like a jig-saw puzzle; each piece fitting perfectly with the others. The second bottle was fairly open but certainly not fully mature; perhaps decanting would assist. 14% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $45, on release. Aside: Diane loves rosé. And the perfect rosé, as far as she is concerned, is one that can be re-closed, put in the fridge and drunk, a glass at a time, over the course of a week or so. We had not found one that held up to that kind of treatment until the 2006 Edmunds St. John, Bone Jolly Rosé which is made from gamay and comes under screw-cap. We followed a bottle for the last 7 days and the last glass was every bit as etched, fresh and charming as the first. I may have to break my buying hiatus for another case of this – after all, when Diane loves a wine I think it wise not to run out. Best, Jim

A fire-roasted tomato sauced pasta with fried chick peas and parmesan was served with the 1996 Pertinance, Langhe which is 70% nebbiolo, 15% barbera and 15% cabernet sauvignon. I think this wine is at or near peak but it shows a bit too much cabernet and not enough nebbiolo for me. Still it’s concentrated, smooth and has moderate complexity . . . and it was good with the dish. 13% alcohol, imported by Veritas and about $16 on sale several years ago. Along side pan seared flounder, grilled radicchio with shitakes, and, mashed potatoes, I served the 2001 F.X. Pichler, Riesling Reserve M which was simply magnificent. Rich, full bodied, dense, spicy/peppery, a touch of RS, and very concentrated with a finish that goes on for a long time, this wine is structured and complex. The aromatics are floral, honeyed, alpine and stony; the flavors never touch petrol but still evidence fine development and the aftertaste reprises every nuance of the palate. A special wine that was even better with the meal and did not overwhelm (which, considering the weight of this wine, was a bit of a surprise). 13% alcohol, imported by Vine Davino and about $55 wholesale, on release. At lunch, we had a rustic tomato soup and a side of cheese quesadillas with guacamole and humus. To accompany, the 2006 Edmunds St. John, Bone Jolly Rosé Witter’s Vnyd. was excellent; fresh, bright, cherry scents with pure cherry and wild strawberry flavors, quite spicy, racy acidity and a flavor I can only describe as the essence of gamay (this wine is made from gamay), with a mouth-watering finish. Life affirming juice; J.P. Brun, move over. 13.2% alcohol, under screw-cap and about $17. Dinner was grilled sandwiches of olive bread with tomatoes, mozzarella and sautéed portabellas and a side of oven roasted potatoes. Opened to escort was the 2005 Raymond Quenard, Mondeuse Chignin from the Savoie region of France; all roses and raspberries on the nose; earthy on the palate with good grip, salty minerality and slightly tart (but still ripe) fruit; an excellent and complex finish. Quite fresh and juicy today but there is enough structure here to go awhile (as further proof, it smoothed out later in the evening). And as perfect a pairing with the meal as I could imagine; one to write down and remember. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $17. Best, Jim

But you needn't give up one for the other, eh? Best, Jim

It’s always nice when Mark drops by for an impromptu dinner and wine, especially when he agrees to cook. From our meager larder (we just got to our place in the mountains and shopping wasn’t first on our list) he made pasta with red sauce, grilled chicken, and, white beans with thyme. We also had a little goat cheese with crackers and some pistachios to start with. The following wines were served throughout the evening: 2005 Girardin, Chassagne-Montrachet Le Caillert: The first Girardin wine I have enjoyed; starts out closed but spicy and by the end of the evening delivers youthful, mineral-infused fruit without too much oak and plenty of acidity; its still pretty closed but this has real promise, substance and my last glass (after about four hours open) was better than my first. 13.5% alcohol and imported by Vineyard Brands. Price unknown. 1998 Giacosa, Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano: My first red label Giacosa and certainly no disappointment; moderate aromatics display solid fruit and good complexity; in the mouth everything amps up but still retains perfect symmetry – good fruit, density, finesse and structure, all in a medium weight wine that is more complex and impressive than this description implies; great length. Opened over the course of the evening but will benefit from additional time down. World class, without question; 14%, and imported by Winebow. Price unknown (and from what I hear, ignorance is bliss). 2001 Caggiano, Taurasi Vigna Macchia de Goti: A rich wine with substantial but very fine and ripe tannin and lots of flavor; nothing overdone or sticking out and good complexity keep this in my wheelhouse. Damn good now, likely, better later. 14%, imported by Skurnik and about $50. 2004 Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana: In this company, this is still the wine I’d pick for drinking regularly. It’s lighter weight, brighter, more fruit forward and seems ready to drink (or close to it), and, although it has good structure and tannin, does not overpower the palate in the presence of food. A delightful wine and built for having with a meal. 14%, Skurnik imports and $30 full retail. Best, Jim

Man, I can taste it! Best, Jim

Although I haven't a gnome, I do have a dedicated cellar. Our home in NC has a "walk-out basement" which has been finished off into living area. On one of the back walls (one that is below grade) I built a 700 bottle cellar that has both bin storage (each holding 12 750's) and rack storage for 750's. I also have lipped shelves that run parallel to the walls for magnum storage (and that makes a nice display, as well). The whole thing is painted white so the only colors in the cellar are the bottles. Oh, and the Breezeaire, which makes sure that, even in summer, everything stays cool. Best, Jim

Point, counter-point; very well said. But I will go with Mary (and Larry) on this one: "John's system is a very good one, and although it may seem non-intuitive, it's a good one for beginners, because it's thorough. Ultimately, however, it's like poetry, the more we learn, the less we need to say, and Jim's friend has captured the spirit of prosecco perfectly." Best, Jim

Mary, The wine note I most enjoyed ever was written by my friend Larry Meehan; I look at it often for inspiration: "NV Toffoli Prosecco ($10-12) I had just finished shopping at Trader Joe's for my weekly pantry maintenance, when I saw a fifty-ish man in a floral print shirt, Dockers and old loafers hop up on the back of his cart. He proceeded to ride along the gentle slope right to his car. Following his example (and much to three year old Michael's delight) I did the same. Just that bit of breeze and fun on a hot, muggy day made me feel refreshed. The fellow shot me a knowing smile and drove off. It was a brief encounter, but it still makes me happy. I should do that more often. Happy summer, friends. LM" We can be as technical as we think is communicative but this note tells me how the taster feels - and to me, that is everything when talking about something that is so utterly subjective and, at the same time, so utterly sublime. Best, Jim

2005 Denis Jamain, Reuilly Pinot Gris Rosé: Served ice cold this is charming and refreshing with a hint of sweetness; barely a blush in color, this is a lovely aperitif or would be good with very light fare. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $15; I bought a few. 2004 de Villaine, Bourgogne Les Clous: Exquisite chardonnay from the Côte Chalonnaise that is probably my favorite chard. outside of Chablis; deep, supple, mineral infused fruit with plenty of cut and no wood or butter overlays. Showing a touch of sulpher at the moment, this still needs 3-5 years in the cellar. Excellent juice. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit and about $19; I bought plenty. 2004 Dom. d’Aupilhac, Montpeyroux: Scents of warm fruit and meat; a broth-like texture in the mouth with layers of garrique, meat and fruit, and good sustain. Perfect with grilled sausages and certainly could stand a year or two in the cellar. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit and about $15; I’ll buy more. 2001 Caggiano, Taurasi Vigne Macchia dei Goti: One of the most impressive red wines I have had this year; smells of tannin and fruit; very saturated and dense fruit in the mouth with lots of very fine, sweet tannin, tremendous structure and complexity, a clear sense of place, and yet, it still leaves the distinct impression of finesse and polish. Needs at least 5 years in the cellar (probably more) this is simply world class wine. 14% alcohol, imported by Michael Skurnik and about $50; I’ll buy more. 2004 J.P. Droin, Chablis Les Clos: Somewhat closed on both the nose and palate but clearly Chablis and fully ripe albeit showing slightly thin; nicely balanced and flavorful with good length. This may add weight with time but I doubt it will ever be fully representative of this vineyard. Only a touch of wood and butter evident. About $44; I won’t by more. 1993 Lopez de Heredia, Viña Tondonia Rosado: Shows slightly sherried with pomegranate, strawberry and tree bark smells and tastes, smoothly textured and very long. A unique wine and not for everyone but also not one you’ll soon forget. About $20; I bought plenty. 2004 Bruno Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: Dusty cherry predominant with earthy scents and flavors, good complexity and nice length. A favorite of mine; it would be hard to have too much of this lovely wine. Imported by Winebow and about $24; I bought plenty. 1998 Lafarge, Bourgogne: Light bodied with fine black raspberry and mushroom scents; a touch tannic on the palate with flavors that follow the nose, some complexity and pretty light weight; medium length finish. Obviously, Burgundy and pleasant accompaniment but nothing serious. About $15 on sale; I bought all I could. Best, Jim

I agree. And that's another nice feature in Asheville - a truly knowledgable and enthusiastic staff. Best, Jim

Mary, Mine exists; the Asheville Wine Market, in Asheville, NC. Its bright, open, done in light woods, super clean, efficient and has a large footprint cellar directly below. Even the check-out counter is arranged for maximum effciency. Although, if it were mine, I might change the inventory a little, the store itself is perfect. Best, Jim

Two from Savennières: Day one: The 2005 Château d’Epiré, Savennières and the 2005 Château d’Epiré, Savennières Cuvée Spéciale were tasted side by side. Both show ripeness, salty minerality, bracing acidity and decent length. Both have scents and flavors in the lanolin, chamomile, hay, apple, beeswax end of the spectrum with very little of the honey, floral or quince/apricot/peach tones I often find (and prefer) in Savennières. The regular bottling is fairly open but by no means mature and makes for pretty good drinking now. The Spéciale is more closed, more intense and clearly more structured. Day two: Both of these are showing more fruit and minerality, and, less hay and lanolin today. Both were served colder than when served on day one which may account for a slightly more closed delivery for both. Neither has lost ground in any respect. Both are imported by Kermit Lynch, the regular is about $15, the Spéciale about $19 and neither is quite the style of Savennières I prefer but both are well-made and very well priced. Certainly, both could use a little time down. Others: 2005 Tiefenbruner, Chardonnay: Smells sweet but isn’t; somewhat floral on the nose; clean, quite crisp and lively in the mouth with chardonnay and mineral flavors, nice balance and moderate length. Nothing deep or rich about this but it isn’t woody or buttery and has a lovely freshness and tang. 13% alcohol, imported by Winebow and about $10; I’ll buy more. 2004 Catena, Malbec: Oaky nose, confected fruit and a sweet n’ sour finish. The barrel does not allow what seems to be respectable fruit get through. For those who like oaky, sugary, soupy, very California-style red wines, ‘sure to be a hit. 13.8% alcohol, imported by Billington Imports and about $17; I wouldn’t accept it as a gift let alone buy it again. Best, Jim

Mary, FWIW, I recently had lunch with Steve and tried the 2005 Gamay, which was very sappy and fresh; the 2005 Pinot Gris, light and floral; and, the 2005 Bassetti Vnyd., Syrah, that Steve called the best red wine he ever made - and I won't argue that. Also, this will be his last Bassetti as the owner and he have parted ways. Best, Jim

With wraps filled with humus and grilled veggies: N/V Bodegas Pedro Romero, Manzanila Sherry Aurora (500 ml): A really soft, yeasty, nutty, sea-air infused sherry that goes with this dish so well its like I’m dining on an outdoor patio in Cadiz overlooking the sea; served chilled this has a “pop” in the mouth and it lingers with a lovely freshness. 15% alcohol, imported by Frontier Imports and about $12; I’ll buy more. 2004 San Alejandro, Rosado Las Rocas: Old vine grenache that has the scents and flavors of strawberries and cherries, clean, bright, juicy and well flavored, this is everything a rosé should be. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $3; buy it by the case. (Aside: Diane prefers the Rosado with the meal, not being a fan of oxidized wines. But for me, the sherry is tasty and symbiotic with the food. Either way, we are well served by the wines.) With grilled salmon cakes and couscous: 2001 Edmunds St. John, Los Robles Viejos: I am too early to this again; composed of mourvèdre, syrah, grenache and counoise from the Rozet Vineyard in Paso Robles, this wine is alluringly scented and quite integrated but also a little closed – I just can’t keep my hands off of it because it still shows well with deep fruit flavors, focus, a broth-like texture and excellent balance. But, it could use a few years in the cellar. 14.2% alcohol and about $27; I bought a lot. With assorted cheeses: 2003 Dom. Tempier, Bandol: Warm, complex aromas and a supple, worsted texture with lots of concentrated, savory fruit and a wide open, muscled delivery; a wine of endless complexity and yet, powerful and deep. Drinking wines like this makes the world seem a very cheerful place. Shows no ill effects from the vintage. Imported by Kermit Lynch and about $23 on sale; I’m going back today for the rest of it. Best, Jim

Bierzo is an area of northwestern Spain which grows the mencia grape; a grape that can, at its best, produce fragrant, fresh, crisply fruit wines with elegant tannin that drink well early. It can also age, especially when blended with garnacha tintorera (a/k/a alicante). Most vineyards are planted on alluvial soils between 1,600 and 2,000 feet along the river valleys and temperatures in summer approach 90 degrees F. The area grows other red and white varieties but mencia is my interest and I have been following its wines for several years now. Other notable producers not mentioned below are Peique, Pérez Caramés, Prada a Topa, Vinos de Bierzo (co-op), Martínez Yebra and Pittacum. Two recent wines from Bierzo: 2000 Bodegas Estefanía, Bierzo Tilenus Pagos de Posado: Smells of grilled/smoked meat, warm herbs and poop – almost no fruit scents; tastes more of fruit and similar to a cabernet franc done in CA, texturally polished, decent length. Although still in evidence, much of the oak this showed on release has morphed but, unfortunately it still obscures the fruit on the nose and leaves the finish with a sweet and sour note. Old vines here but winemaking decisions all but eliminate the taster finding out what they can do. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $20 (marked down from $44); I’ll not buy more. 2004 Bodegas Martin Codax, Bierzo Cuatro Pasos: Sort of Duboeuf does mencia with very forward red fruit on both the nose and palate but ultimately a simple, quaffing wine. Even so, Diane and I both liked this more than the Tilenus. 14% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $10; I’ll not buy more. One would think that somewhere on the sliding scale between these two styles, this grape and this terroir would allow for a well made version of mencia; neither of these houses achieve that. I’ve had a little better luck with the low-end bottlings from Domino de Tares; their higher priced bottlings being over-oaked. But my only reliable find from this region has been from Descendientes de J. Palacios; their pricey Corullíon is too woody for me but the inexpensive Bierzo is an appetizing, rustic, village wine. I would hate to think that all the old vine fruit in this area is relegated to being aged in new barrique. But then, very few of the producers here have a long history in the region so perhaps their learning curve in the days to come will move them away from so much new wood. Best, Jim

2005 Denis Jamain, Reuilly Pinot Gris Rosé: Barely a blush of color; lovely floral and fruit scents; richer fruit than expected with good cut on the palate, 12.5% alcohol and nice persistence. Yummy with Asian salad. About $15, imported by Kermit Lynch and worth the price. 1989 Edmunds St. John, Les Côtes Sauvages (magnum): 53% mourvèdre, 24% grenache, 17% syrah and 6% carignan; world class nose with lots of bottle bouquet, nuance and secondary development; ripe red fruit, broth, dried herbs and remarkable complexity in the mouth with fresh flavors, supple textures and total integration; a long finish. Tasted over two days and while in got rounder and slightly fuller on day two, it lost nothing in verve. Surely the best Rhône style wine I have tasted from California and the equal of all but the greatest from CdP. Decanted off substantial sediment that coated the walls of the bottle, 13.1% alcohol, price unknown. Thanks Steve. 2005 Philippe Colin, Bourgogne: Just plain Wow! A terrific, 12.8% abv Burgundy with depth, flesh, cut, grip and sustain. Beautiful (and distinctly) pinot noir that will last several years in the cellar but is lively and rewarding today. Imported by Kermit Lynch, about $18 and I’ll buy it by the case. 2002 Overnoy, Arbois Pupillin: Poulsard is a grape I have come to love; idiosyncratic in its color, aroma and flavor, it is not for everyone. But this wine makes me smile and keeps my attention. Pomegranate may be the closest descriptor but it is accented by mineral and earthy tones and has a dryness that is very appealing. Imported by Louis/Dressner, about $21 and I bought plenty. A few brief thoughts on some 2005 Beaujolais Cru wines: Chignard, Fleurie: Needs 10 hours in the decanter to show at all at this stage; best left in the cellar for several years. $21. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie: Shutting down, although the worsted texture and deep fruit are still evident; another multi-year cellar candidate. $20. Tete, Julienas Domaine du Clos du Fief: Still showing very nicely; a very polished rendition of the vintage with a pure core and nice light earth tones; drink or hold. $18. Foillard, Morgon: Also showing well now; very smooth and texturally appealing but without the vigor of the Tete. Others will feel differently, but I think this a second tier wine in this vintage (although still a good one). $26. Best, Jim

The sauvignon is grown at Dry Stack Vineyard and Matanzas Creek is very close. Best, Jim

That's good to hear. What is Russell planting? And how many vines? Was he disappointed that your planting project was delayed by the rain? ← Certainly disappointed but not put off; the planting should be going on today and tomorrow. He is planting 1 3/4 acres to syrah with a total of about 3,000 vines. Cones 174 and 470. That's pretty tight spacing in a vineyard of that size but it should work well with the aspect it has and with the days of sun it gets. And Russell, being the perfectionist that he is, will crop lower than most. The wines should be, to say the very least, extraordinarily concentrated. Best, Jim