Florida Jim

Sautéed mahi mahi on cous cous topped with a spring vegetable and black olive mélange: 2005 Tete, Juliénas Clos du Fief: Medium weight, sinewy wine with crunchy blackberry fruit and lovely spice; similar flavors on the palate with a weightless delivery, good intensity, perfect balance and fine length. Charming wine that has enough grip to make me think a couple years in the cellar is a good idea. 13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $18; more than worth it. Chosen because I have had red wine with fish before and thought this might work. It did. But probably better with the veggies than the fish. In any event, when one gets a bite of the entire dish, the wine is of lesser weight but the flavors are carved into those of the food and complimentary. A nice match – maybe not the very best but one I won’t hesitate to repeat. First, smoked salmon spread and crackers; and then, a frittata with tomatoes, zucchini, cous cous, shallots, garlic, roasted red peppers, parmesan and basil, topped with fresh chopped cherry tomatoes: 2004 Dom. André et Mireille Tissot (Stéphan Tissot), Chardonnay: Aside from Chablis, I can not think of another region (the Jura) that makes chardonnay more in tune with my tastes; this is aromatic, varietally correct, clean and vinous, with solid chardonnay flavors and - no oak, no vanilla, no overt sweetness and no soft or weighty texture – rather it is pure and natural with real depth of flavor, lovely balance, good acidity and excellent length. 13% alcohol, imported by Potomac Selections and about $24; so worth it. (For those familiar with other Jura wines, there was no oxidation in this one.) Chosen because I think chardonnay often pairs well with egg dishes if the wine is unoaked or very lightly so; it worked well. A bit of the frittata and a sip of wine at the same time made it clear that the flavors not only melded together but balanced each other. Equally, the fish spread and the wine counter-balanced each other; one taking the foreground one moment and then vice versa. An excellent wine with a variety of foods – as is evident here. Grilled chicken tenders, hummus, Tzatziki, sliced fresh tomatoes and grilled Naan: 2002 Ogier, Vin de Pays La Rosine: A lightweight syrah with elegant textures and a clean finish yet its flavors are potent, it has some grip and is obviously Northern Rhône. While I enjoy this bottling, I think this vintage comes up slightly short of its usual Côte-Rôtie-like performance. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Robert Kacher and about $19; still a good value. Chosen to match the earthy flavors of the hummus and the grilled items and it worked well. As is often the case, a Northern Rhône wine has some scents and flavors of meat and ashes; usually good with grilled fare - and it was in this case. Complimentary flavors and textures here and some enhancement of each by the other. A very good pairing. Best, Jim

Thanks for the tip but I have enough Beaujolais - and for me, that is saying something. Best, Jim

I bought a great deal of the 2005's from Vissoux including the Moulin-a-Vent, the Fleurie Poncie and the Cuvee Traditionalle (is that the one you were talking about?). I will age the MaV and a few bottles of the Tradiotionalle (because I have found they do better in a year) but I bought so much of the Poncie that I will drink it when I want it. I'm sure some will last into later years, but I adore this wine and I'm not going to forego drinking it just to see if it will age. I have plenty of other wine I am aging. Best, Jim

Pasta with a pureed sauce of fresh grape tomatoes, basil, garlic, olive oil and almonds: 2001 Edmunds St. John, Los Robles Viejos Rozet Vnyd.: Attractive red fruit aromas with hints of earth and spice; supple, flavorful and moderately complex with excellent balance, etched flavors and good length. Showing young but has the potential for greater complexity as the syrah, grenache, counoise blend continues to develop. 14.2% alcohol and about $27, full retail; I’d buy it again. Chosen to compare with a recent nebbiolo opened with the same dish. While this was balanced against the dish and complimentary, that was not the synergy of the nebbiolo. Lunch with Claude and Anna-Marie: Gazpacho with cheese biscuits: 2005 Foreau, Vouvray Sec: This is beautiful wine and although it is very young and shows it, it also delivers a full sense of place and great flavors. One of those wines I wish I had cases of. 13.2% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $29, very worth it. Chosen because Claude asked for Vouvray. Claude had invited us for lunch and prepared all the food so I followed his suggestions for wine. This was a world record match and one that I will never forget. There is a stony edge to the wine that worked perfectly with the earthy character of the soup and the flavors seem to weave together. I don’t think I have ever had a wine and food pairing that worked as well. The wine is truly great; the pairing is other-worldly. Crab salad: 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleuire Poncie: Probably my favorite wine right now and one that always delivers fresh, bursting fruit flavors and yet remains true to its terroir; there really is no missing that this is Fleurie. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Mtezler and about $20; I bought tons. Chosen because Claude thought that cru Beaujolais went well with lobster so it would go well with crab. And while I question the premise, his first choice had been so astoundingly good, who am I to argue. ‘Missed by a mile. The salad was good with the Vouvray (I had saved some) but did not work with the Beaujolais at all. But I saved one of the cheese biscuits and once we were done with the salad, I ate the biscuit with the Beaujolais and it worked very well. For dessert we had homemade Ovaltine sorbet and no wine. The sorbet was stellar – who’d a thunk?. Best, Jim

Warm artichoke and parmesan dip with crackers: 2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées: As always, a fragrant, flavorful, compelling wine that is complex, balanced and very long. It is difficult to believe one can get this much wine for so little money. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $7, on sale; bought by the case. Chosen because artichokes usual do well with zippy wines with cut. Although a good match, not a great one. The flavors of the wine and the food did not compete and their relative strength was balanced but there was no enhancement factor. Pasta with a pureed sauce of fresh grape tomatoes, basil, garlic, olive oil and almonds: 2003 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmggiore: When I first tasted this at release I thought it showed evidence of the vintage: cooked flavors, alcoholic, flamboyant and disjointed – so I lumped it into my general theory that one should not buy European wines from this vintage. Of course, I disregarded the fact that Bruno Giacosa made the wine and that, in all likelihood, he’d seen hot weather vintages before. So much for my generalizations. This wine is glorious now; big but balanced; strongly fruit driven but also dusty and quite dry. Complex, concentrated, not over the top, not showing alcohol, integrating very nicely and clearly of its place. The maestro knows how to make good wine in any year; shame on me. 14% alcohol, imported by Locascio and about $45, full retail at release – that’s steep for the DOC but the producer makes it worth it. Chosen for common heritage, this was the perfect match. The almonds and the dryness of the wine kept the palate clean while the flavors of the wine and the dish intermingled in ways that made the whole greater than the sum of its parts. A pairing to remember. Sautéed grouper topped with sautéed yellow squash, black olives, onions, basil and tomatoes, with a salad and grilled Naan: 1999 Nigl, Riesling Hochacker: Beautiful, full throated Austrian riesling with balance, fragrance, depth and sustain. A wine of character and presence. 13% alcohol, imported by Skurnik and about $18, on sale; I’d buy a lot at that price. Chosen more with the vegetable mélange in mind than the fish, this worked well with both. The wine gives a refreshing impression and balances the dish as well as one could ask. Very nice, indeed. Aged cheddar cheese: 1994 Laurel Glen, Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain: Both Diane and I are in awe; this is not California cabernet of the usual variety and blows away the cults, nor is it Bordeaux by any stretch; this is a unique masterpiece of paradox – elegant but rustic, polished yet grippy, fruit driven but restrained, powerful but weightless – a magnificent, very complex wine that is only entering its “drink now” phase and one deserving of the descriptor great. 12.5% alcohol (yeah, that’s right), cork fell apart on opening and about $40 on release; find me a domestic cabernet that performs like this for that price – I just don’t think you can. Oh my! Chosen on a whim. May the spirits always move me with such insight. Simply fabulous with the cheese. Best, Jim

Grilled Italian (chicken) sausages, hummus, plain yogurt, grilled zucchini, sliced tomatoes and Naan: 1999 Juge, Cornas Cuvée C: Feminine Cornas; it sounds contradictory but it tastes great; crunchy blackberry, turned earth, meat and ash aromas; the same in the mouth on an almost weightless delivery with good grip, complexity and balance; excellent length. A terrific wine that either is or is very close to, one of its drinking windows. 13% alcohol, imported by New France Wine Co. and about $35; worth it. Chosen to pair with the grilled sausage but this did well across the spectrum of foods and the combinations of those foods in this meal. Fantastic with the sausage and hummus combination, very good with every other variation. A memorable meal. Crackers with brie goat cheese: 1999 Nigl, Riesling Piri Privat: A perplexing showing; nice balance, floral, varietally correct and of its place but its like somebody turned the volume down. I hesitate to call it thin or weak but it was more muted than I expected, especially since I tasted this many times during its first years after release and found it potent. No discernable corkiness. 13% alcohol, imported by Skurnik and about $40 on release; I’m not sure what to think. Chosen on a whim – bad choice. First of all, a pungent cheese like goat doesn’t need the additional pungency of a rind. Not my kind of cheese. Further, the wine couldn’t stand against the power of the cheese nor did it come close to matching the flavors. And, as noted, it wasn’t all that impressive alone. A ragout of sausage (chicken), white beans, tomatoes, onions and garlic served with Naan and a big salad: 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Albéric Bouvet: The beginnings of bottle bouquet with a marrowy, savory note on the nose along with solid northern Rhône syrah aromas; medium high acid, delineated flavors follow the nose, good balance, intense without weight and very long. Still has some grip. Nothing “mouth-coating” here as this delivers etched flavors without any chunkiness. 13% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and I paid anywhere from $9 to $20 for the bottles I have; a personal favorite. Since I had good luck pairing Cornas with sausage I thought another northern Rhône might work here; it did. The acidity of the wine cut the richness of the dish and the flavors harmonized well. Not a great pairing but a very good one and certainly one I’d do again. Best, Jim

Whites: 2006 Drystack Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc Rosemary’s Block: Tropical scents and flavors but with excellent cut, good viscosity and balance with an underlying mineral streak. A personal favorite. 2003 Abbazia Di Novacella, Kerner: Kerner is an ancient grape, probably more from Austria than the Alto Adige. This has an expansive nose and potent flavors with a smooth texture and a minerality that keeps it from being flamboyant. A rich wine with honeyed tones. 2005 Pieropan, Soave Classico: A pretty, lightweight wine with much more delicate flavors than the rest of these whites and lighter in the mouth as well. Much as I enjoy Soave, I think I like Pieropan’s single vineyard bottlings better. 2005 Caprai, Grechetto dei Colli Martani Grecante: 100% grechetto, this has a resinous quality to accent its white fruit and excellent acidity; flavors are citric and mineral and the structure is taut; long finish. My first grechetto and so fully flavored for a lean wine I will look for it again. Reds: 1996 Lynch-Bages: I last tasted this three years ago when its most striking quality was how “California” the flavors and structure seemed; it is now Bordeaux, or more precisely, Paulliac with leather, tobacco, mint/sage, underbrush tones with clean black and red fruits all in a focused, mid-weight package with good grip and balance. Still youthful and linear but this showed pretty well after several hours in the decanter. 1996 Feudi San Gregorio, Serpico: 100% aglianico, it was fragrant and spicy on the nose with earthy elements in the back ground; big wine but not ponderous with solid black fruit and earth accents, a bit monolithic now, I suspect this still needs years to resolve. Even so, well-balanced and certainly of its place. 1996 Dom. Clavel, La Copa Santa: A little more new world in style than the foregoing reds with some oak on the nose with dark fruit and pencil shavings; worsted texture on the palate and good density and balance and fine length. A little more polished than I like but well-made and quite good with pork roast. Best, Jim

Rice pasta with chick peas, broccoli and an artichoke pesto cream sauce: 2000 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Estate Reserve: Showing aromas of oak, stems, red fruit and spice; the same on the palate with some complexity and depth, good balance and a long finish. By itself, not something I want much of but it did well with the food. 14.3% alcohol and about $44 on release; I won’t buy it again. Chosen on a whim. ‘Was good accompaniment as it lost most of its oak/stem signature and the fruit showed through but it did not overwhelm the flavors of the dish. Grilled chicken breasts, grilled corn on the cob, a big salad and crusty bread: 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie: This wine gives rise to an emotional response in me; its is unreservedly delicious and filled with freshness and nuance; a delight to smell and taste and feel in the mouth; beautifully ripe fruit, a purity matched by very few bottles I have ever tried and so utterly sublime that I am lost for words. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; back up the truck. Chosen because of Beaujolais’ affinity with chicken, this fell short. Of course the wine was wonderful, but it needed the punch of a whole roast chicken with veggies rather than just chicken breast. A good match but not a great one. Still, the wine . . . Smoked salmon spread and crackers: 2005 Denis Jamain, Reuilly Pinot Gris Rosé: Light, clean and very slightly off-dry, this very pale rosé is refreshing and carries good cut and light flavors (mostly strawberry) with nice balance. A friendly little wine which, for me, is best a single glass at a time. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $15; I like other rosés better but this was very good with the dish. Chosen because of comments about pinot gris being good with salmon and it was; this had the fruit to stand against the smoked fish flavors and enough cut to lighten the spread. Pasta with a sauce of yellow squash, zucchini, mushrooms, white beans, chicken and pesto, topped with chopped tomato: 2005 Argiolas, Vermetino di Sardegna Costamolino: Resin, citrus and mineral on the nose with a tang to the flavors and a bitter note on the finish. I liked it but Diane didn’t (a little too bitter for her). 13.5% alcohol, imported by Locascio and about $9. Chosen because of the pungency of the pesto in the dish, this was a perfect match – even Diane agreed. The flavors meshed well and the bitter note cleaned the aftertaste while still maintaining the freshness of the dish. A superb match. Best, Jim

Rice pasta with sautéed zucchini, mozzarella, chicken breast, garlic and a chopped tomato garnish: 2005 Thevenet, Morgon VV: I know folks have mentioned brett in this wine but I couldn’t find any; medium strength nose of fresh fruit and spice; very slightly thin in the mouth but with solid fruit and nice balance; medium length finish. Not as dense and plush as on release but a pleasant wine. 13% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $23 on release; too high a price for me but I’d still be happy to drink yours. Chosen because of the overall lightness of the dish and the inclusion of chicken; a good match with the wine keeping it light and sort of ‘filling in the spaces’ of the flavors. Crackers and manchego: 2004 Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo Pétalos: Very nice nose of both red and black fruits, gun flint, turned earth and brown spice, complex and expansive; smooth but not soft, some grip, integrated flavors follow the nose with some complexity and individuality, good balance; long, clean finish. This has shed some of its tannin and integrated very well since release. It also has a personality all its own and I doubt one would confuse it with other wines; mencia makes some very interesting and delicious juice. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Rare Wine Co. and about $16; I’d buy it again in a heartbeat. Chosen for its common heritage with the cheese and a fine accompaniment, it was. (On day two, after pumping, it began to come apart and the oak was showing; I’d say these should be drunk near term.) Sautéed rare Coho salmon; a salad of celery, mushrooms, parsley and parmesan dressed with olive oil; and, rice: 1999 Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner Loiser Berg: A bit stinky on the nose with resin, white fruit and asparagus scents; textured and deep in the mouth with flavors similar to the nose, good cut and fine balance; very long. Showing its youth but also its pedigree. 12% alcohol, imported by Skurnik and about $14 at release; worth it. Chosen on suggestion of many on the board and it was good with the salmon and rice but outstanding with the salad as the mushrooms flavors became more vivid and the celery and parsley flavors matched perfectly. An unexpected but delightful find. Best, Jim

Diane and I arrived at our place in the mountains of western NC yesterday to 60 degree temps., a light rain and we took our first lunch out on the porch. It’s so quiet here . . . nice to be back. We stopped at several friends houses along the way and had the following wines: 2006 Ravelli, Soave Classico: Light, fresh and plenty of zip; a good accompaniment to renewing old acquaintances and some fish chowder. About $7 and worth it. 2006 Con Class, Verdejo: Lots of peach tones and a bit more body than the Soave; good varietal character and good with pasta. About $11; I’d buy it again. 2005 Philppe Faury, St. Joseph: A full-flavored and terroir nuanced Northern Rhone that couldn’t get much better; complex, deep, just slightly rustic and showing real class. About $25 and definitely worth it. 2005 Ravelli, Montepulciano d’Abruzo: Medium weight, easy drinking but good character; a very balanced and charming wine. About $6; more than worth it. 2006 Espelt Vailet, Blanc: Mostly grenache blanc, I think, this was light, airy, citric and pleasant. About $9; I’d buy it again. 2006 Ercavio, Blanc: 100% airen; very easy to drink; slightly citric and a little pineapple, nice mineral accents and longer than expected. Pretty good for a grape I never heard of before. About $8; I’d buy it again. 2005 Fessardiere, Muscadet: Textbook Muscadet with sea air, lemon smells and flavors, cleansing acidity and lovely balance. Good stuff. About $11; I’d buy it again. 2006 Du Pouy, Blanc: A little musky with white fruit and mineral elements, medium weight and length. Okay, but not as bright or charming as some of the other whites in this note. About $7; probably not again. Best, Jim

Pasta with grated zucchini, fresh herbs and parmesan: 2002 Overnoy-Houillon, Arbois Pupillin: Masters of the poulsard grape, this wine smells of pomegranate, mineral, red plum and brown spice; the same flavors on the palate with a distinctly funky/aged side that makes the overall impression one of maturity, good structure, fine balance; excellent length. A wine of character, terroir or – name your term – personality that would never be confused with anything else. A wine that makes me giggle. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $21; stupidly under priced. Chosen because I was “jonesin’” for it. The pairing was not so much a perfect blending but more a point/counter-point done very, very well. At one moment the food holds sway despite the wine’s sensuous streak; the next the wine underlines a flavor or puts an exclamation point at the end of a nibble. This wine moves me in ways very few others can; it is, without apology, fully of its place. Goat cheese and crackers (while watching the movie): 2005 Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vieilles Vignes: So much more open than on release: still a brooding, structured wine with dark fruit smells and flavors, an underlying minerality and a serious disposition. From very old vines – a wine in need of cellaring. 13% alcohol, imported by Becky Wasserman and about $22; I bought a bunch. Good with the cheese and crackers and not bad on its own. But too young to get the full ‘monty’ from. Hold. Eggplant parmesan: 2006 Ravelli, Montepulciano D’Abruzzo: Dusty and full of dark fruit on the nose; grippy and intense on the palate with good fruit flavors, some complexity and very nice balance; medium length. A wine that has a lot more personality than its price tag would have you believe. 12% alcohol, imported by Opici Wine Co. and about $6; I’ll buy more. Chosen on heritage. Proved the history right with very solid acidity to cut the cheese in the dish and ripe flavors to compliment the eggplant. A pretty good pairing and a very economical one. Best, Jim

Aperitif: 2005 Gaetano D’Aquino, Frascati Superiore: Bright, floral and citrusy with a musky tone on both the nose and palate, lightweight, mouth-watering and easy to drink. 12% alcohol, imported by D’Aquino Italian Importing and about $5; I’d buy it again. A nice aperitif that freshens the palate and does not linger. Sautéed rice pasta with edamame beans, salmon, feta and onions: 2006 Edmunds St. John, Gamay Rosé Bone-Jolly: Clean strawberry, raspberry and spice tones with a mineral underpinning; focused but still fleshy in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose, good balance and acidity, bone-dry and nice sustain. 13.2% alcohol and about $17; I bought a lot. On Steve’s suggestion, I chose this with the meal. It was a very good match with flavors that did not overwhelm but did compliment those in the dish and a freshness that cleansed the palate after each sip. Again, a very versatile wine and, IMO, a must for any cellar. Fresh basil spring rolls and pad Thai: 2005 Dom. du Clos Naudin (Foreau), Vouvray Sec: The purest chenin; crystalline in delivery, focused, transparent, structured, balanced; lemon, honey, wax, herb tea and mineral on the nose; the same on the palate, savory, lyrical, prismatic flavors - moving and changing; immensely complex yet never anything but totally integrated; succulent and endless. A tribute to nature’s intricate perfection and to a winemaker who understood what he had been given and ‘didn’t screw it up.’ 13.2% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $29 on release; I regret not buying more. Chosen in hopes that I too, would not screw up the pairing. I had tasted this wine in January and thought it too angular and young. I vowed to let it age and yet, when I saw this in the wine cooler tonight, I could not help myself. Thankfully, it was wonderful with the food; amazingly agile and racy with the spring rolls, more structured and potent with the pad Thai. (Aside: Over the span of several decades, I have tried to build a diverse cellar based on producers that, IMO, pay attention to detail, are intuitive rather than formulaic and, most importantly, let the earth speak. Giacosa, Chevillon, Hirtzberger, Overnoy, Allemand, Edmunds St. John, John Thomas, Vincent Dauvissat; so many others that are, in their own way, unique. Not a cellar that would garner the big bids at auction, but one that pleases me (as Damon Runyon might say) ‘no little and quite some.’ The Foreau brothers are of this ilk and this wine is about as good as anyone ever needs to bottle. No wonder I couldn’t resist – they should put locks on the closure.) Best, Jim

Turkey sandwiches and potato chips: 2005 San Quirico, Vernaccia di San Gimignano: Structured, aromatic and lightweight, this wine does not suffer for intensity with white fruit, resin and mineral tones, good acidity and a distinct bitter note from mid-palate on which seems to notch-up the wine’s overall delivery. A good sipper, whether with food or not. 12.5% alcohol, made from organic grapes, imported by Locasio and about $10; I will buy it again. Chosen on a whim. Good with the sandwich, superb with the chips. This needs a little more than just white meat, bread and tomatoes – it would be ideal with tapas or seafood and likely good with stronger dishes that require white wine. Whatever it is served with, the bitter note refreshes the palate after each sip; hence, a versatile food wine. (Aside: I have had other vintages of this wine from this producer and think this is much the better of them.) Griilled chicken breasts, green beans, salad and crusty bread: 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie: The most impressive wine I have had this year; beautiful, full gamay nose that is complex, enticing and penetrating; smooth in the mouth with ripe fruit, spice, perfect balance and finesse; very long finish. This wine is varietally correct, of its place and so harmonious as to give the impression of complete symmetry. It needs about an hour in the decanter. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; as good a wine as I have ever found at that price point. I chose it because Beaujolais and chicken is a classic combo. A sip of this and a bite of the bird are about as close to heaven as a pairing can be, each showcasing the other. Wonderful wine! Assorted cheeses: 2002 Feudi de San Gregorio, Taurasi: One of the most shockingly dreadful wines I have had in years; hideously over-oaked – to the point that the oak makes the wine smelled flawed and dries it out on the palate. DNPIM. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Palm Bay Imports and about $19; avoid like the plague. And, 2005 Edmunds St. John, Redneck 101 Eaglepoint Ranch: Liquefied raspberry preserves on the nose; jammy on the palate with the flavor of the nose and very little else, noticeable sweetness and alcohol; medium finish. One dimensional, way too jammy for me and somewhat artificial tasting. Maybe this is one of those ’47 Cheval type wines that tastes port-like in its youth and needs 50 years to come ‘round but its not my style now and that is very unusual for this producer who makes some of the best wines in CA. 14.6% alcohol and about $25; not for me. The ESJ was tolerable with the cheese but not something I’d want much of and I couldn’t bring myself to take another sip of the Taurasi. Best, Jim

White pizza with spinach and artichoke hearts: 2004 Álvaro Castro, Vinho Tinto Dão: Made, unfortified, with port grapes this smells of warm dark fruit and smoke; tastes of sweet fruit, with good grip and a smooth texture; and has a medium finish. I liked this wine a lot last year but it seems a bit simple and confected this time. 13% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $12; I won’t buy it again. I chose it because ‘anything goes with pizza’ and I wanted to try it. It was okay but nothing special as the sweetness seemed to jump out with the pizza and neither really made a difference in the other. I’m starting to think that Portuguese table wines made with port grapes have to be done very carefully because these grapes tend come across sweet. Hence, it is important to get the wine very dry and keep it that way; this one didn’t make the cut, for me. The same pizza as above as leftovers: 2005 Pieropan, Soave Classico: Apple, grapefruit and sassafras nose; angular on the palate with flavors that follow the nose, excellent acidity and good sustain. This needs a little time in the cellar to round out but has all the pieces and very nice balance. 12% alcohol, imported by Empson and about $17; I’d buy it again. I chose it based on heritage. It was an excellent match, especially with the artichoke hearts and spinach as its complexity came out with those flavors and the acidity of the wine cut the cheese well. Each was made better by the other. Rice noodles with stir-fried veggies and tofu, and some chopped almonds: 2004 Freie Weingärtner, Grüner Veltliner: Aromatically reticent; clean and fresh in the mouth with citrus, vegetable and floral notes, lightweight with medium length. Not much here but refreshing to quaff. 12% alcohol, screw cap, imported by Vin Davino and about $9; I won’t buy it again. However, with the dish it married well as both the wine and food delivered clean and complimentary flavors. Also tasted, was the 2005 J.J. Christoffel, Riesling Kabinett Erdener Treppchen: which had been open but in the fridge for over a week. The wine was still sound and giving but it was too sweet for the food and overpowered the delicacy of the dish. 9% alcohol, imported by M. Skurnik, screw cap and price unknown; I wouldn’t buy it. Best, Jim

Dinner - Pasta with a sauce of salmon and goat cheese: 2004 Dom. Pepière, Muscadet Clos des Briords: This is, as always, a beautiful wine; cream soda and cracked pepper nose with minerals underlying and fresh air tones; clean, crisp fruit with flavors of unripe pineapple and more black pepper with great cut and balance; long, clean finish. Even alone, a beautiful drink and more approachable than I would have expected. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $13 on release; way under priced. I chose this because of some suggestions from the board and because I thought that the goat cheese would moderate the oily texture and potent flavors of the salmon such that a light white wine with good cut might match well. And I was pretty close. But despite the fact that the dish and the wine tasted very good together, there was no symbiotic effect – neither enhanced the other – even though they were nice together. I’m guessing that a white with a little more weight and texture (white Rhone, gruner veltliner, etc.) might have been a better match but those were not available to me at the time. When I get back to NC and my cellar, I’ll definitely try that combo. Lunch - Blue corn chips with melted cheddar cheese served with humus and avocado: 2006 Dry Stack Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc Rosemary’s Block: For those of you who read my notes you know I love this wine – I still do; grapefruit and flint on the nose; lots of tropical fruit mixed with grapefruit and mineral in the mouth and no grassy or cat pees odors or flavors, good body and balance; a long, flavor-filled finish. My kind of sauvignon and I love it ice cold. 14.1% alcohol and about $22; I’d buy it again. I chose it because I thought the grapefruit flavors and the very cold temperature would be refreshing to the palate and it worked out that way. It was best with the chips, cheese and humus and adequate when the avocado was added to the mix – I’m not sure why the difference but I think it has to do with the earthiness of the humus and the mineral element in the wine. In any event, a good match and one I will keep in mind as Diane and I eat humus often. Dinner – Fresh caught grouper, grilled; steamed green beans and yellow zucchini; oven baked fries with rosemary: Three wines were served; the Dry Stack, Sauvignon noted above and the 2006 Kim Crawford, Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough and the 2006 Kim Crawford, Unoaked Chardonnay. The Kim Crawford wines were chosen by our host and I brought along about 2/3 of a bottle of the Dry Stack that Diane and I had for lunch without knowing what was to be served, so there was no forethought on my part as to the pairings. The Dry Stack was beyond words good as the power of the wine and the richness of the fish created a umami paradise; with each bite and sip it was as though the wine was a sauce made for the dish. One of the best food/wine matches I have ever experienced. An ‘oh, my!’ pairing. The Kim Crawford, Chardonnay was unimpressive with plastic smells and flavors and little to identify it as chardonnay. I did not even try it with the meal because I didn’t like it at all. The Kim Crawford, Sauvignon (about $16 full retail) was lovely; not as big and powerful as the Dry Stack and not near the match for the fish but a charming wine without cat pee or grassy scents and flavors with nice ripe fruit. Good with the meal but not great. Best, Jim

You know, I've never tasted one . . . and I hear such great things about them. BTW, since you were kind enough to respond, what would you think about a white Rhone wine? Best, Jim

Boiled shrimp with spicy cocktail sauce, Caesar salad and crusty rolls: 2006 Edmunds St. John, Gamay Rosé Bone Jolly: As has been said many times here, this is a terrific rosé with fresh and intense raspberry/strawberry flavors, great acidity, a solid mineral backbone, and, best of all, its bone dry. I like it ice cold from the fridge and, depending on the weather, sometimes over ice. And its one of the very few wines in my cellar I will drink without food. In short, a very versatile wine. I chose this bottle, with Diane’s help, mainly because of its cut and juicy flavors. Matching a spicy, horseradish based sauce is tough but we both felt that this would stand with it and not be so viscous as to cloy. Moreover, the horseradish would not be competing with lots of tannin or any kind of sweetness, whether RS or just the impression of sweetness left by alcohol or extraction (and while some spicy dishes are best served by a sweet or off-dry wine, I don’t think a horseradish based sauce is). It worked about as well as I could have hoped because it refreshed the palate after the heat of the sauce, brought out the tomato flavors and was juicy enough to balance with the texture of the shrimp. And the fact that it was ice cold also helped offset the spice/heat. This is a match we will both remember and likely extrapolate on with other spicy meals and certainly at times when horseradish is an ingredient in a dish. 13.2% alcohol and about $17; more than worth it. Sautéed wild salmon (rare) with sautéed Portobello and truffle oil, and a side of fennel salad: 2004 Terres Dorées (J.P. Brun), Côte de Brouilly: Much like Burgundy on the nose with black cherry, herb, mineral and cocoa tones; lightweight in the mouth but intense with flavors that echo the nose, good acidity, some tannin and the overall delivery softens with air; a dry, lasting finish. A high-toned wine that is a little disjointed but shows more complexity than at release. I chose this because it is usually somewhat lighter than most of Brun’s other Beaujolais and the fish was to be done very simply. And although the wine did show that lightness, it never quite matched as the salmon/mushroom mix was earthy, rich and smooth but the wine seemed hollow when tasted with it and its flavors were jarring. I can’t figure exactly why this failed, especially since the wine was very pinot-esque but this is not a pairing I would repeat. Apart, both the wine and the food were agreeable. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $20 on release; I’d buy it again. (Aside: the last several times we’ve had salmon with red wine (mostly pinot) I have begun to think that white wine may be a better choice. Something that might be closer in texture, say an aged chardonnay or fleshy new world sauvignon. I’ll try one of those next time. Suggestions?) Best, Jim

You really know how to hurt a guy. Best, Jim

There are a myriad of wine rating systems; numbers, letters, puffs, stars and the odd catch phrase. None of them are my cup of tea and none of them are going away. As an alternative, I think I’ll start/steal one. Mine will focus on how a wine goes with a dish or meal that I’m eating. BTW, this not original; I credit on-line personality SFJoe with the idea; a recent post of his got me to thinking; he said that the only real ‘rating’ that means anything is how any wine goes with the food your eating. I agree with him. Hopefully, by thinking primarily of how the wine goes with the food and trying to put that into words, I will become more attuned to the pairing. I do it every evening at dinner so I should certainly be able to explain why I pick what I do once I know what Diane is cooking and, together, both she and I should be able to say if it worked or not and why. Please, bear with me while getting started; in a couple of years I should be more sensitive to matching than I was to begin with, but from here on, almost all of my notes will be focused on the pairing of wine and food. Best, Jim

I think so. But the 2005 is around and it is also a wonderful vintage. Best, Jim

First: Manchego cheese, figs and crackers Second: pasta with zucchini, cream, parmesan, chicken and a topping of fresh tomatoes 2004 Gorrondona, Bizkaiko Txakolina (pronounced chack-o-LEE-nah): This wine is from the Basque region of Spain and is made with the grape hondarrabi beltza, an indigenous variety. The vines are over 100 years old, from a single vineyard and the fermentation is done in stainless. Very dark fruit on the nose, somewhat roasted, with accents of scorched earth and herbs – intriguing; intense dark fruit in the mouth with herbs, chalky bitter-chocolate tannins and a rustic but balanced delivery; long finish. The tannins smoothed out over the course of the evening yet never lost grip. 12.5% alcohol, imported by De Maison Selections and about $18 on release: I’d buy it again. I chose the wine to match with the Spanish cheese but then Diane found the figs (which also do well with manchego). By then the wine was already opened so we ate the cheese and figs without it but when we had only the crackers and cheese it really paired nicely as the cheese became creamier and the wine lost some of its bitter-chocolate notes and smoothed out. With the second course, the wine also did well as the cream and cheese softened it and the fresh tomatoes made the herbal notes complimentary (almost like having basil with fresh tomato). (Aside: This wine has come a long way since release when it was too tannic to drink and the herbal tones were dominant – now they are simply an accent and a light one, at that.) Best, Jim

First: sliced tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, shredded basil and a light, herb vinaigrette. 2006 Ravelli, Soave Colli Scaligeri: This is very fresh with white fruit and mineral scents; the same on the palate with a licorice flavor, a bitter almond after taste and medium length. A charming wine that is 12.5% alcohol, imported by Opici Wine Co., under screw cap and costs about $12; I’d buy it again. I chose this because of its freshness and heritage. Diane and I agreed that it was excellent with the dish as the licorice flavor seemed to match the fresh basil and the bitter almond note freshened the palate after the lactic effect of the cheese. As a match, this is hard to beat. Second: grilled chicken breasts, Caesar salad and crusty bread. 2005 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie Cuvée Tardive: A big wine aromatically with black fruit, earth and spice aromas; concentrated and intense black fruit and spice flavors in the mouth with grainy tannins, a mouth-coating texture and a long, powerfully flavored finish. More open than a bottle at release yet still a bruiser. 13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $20; I bought plenty. Also tasted, 1998 Lafarge, Bourgogne: (My note from yesterday follows) “Cocoa powder and plum nose; round and full in the mouth with sour cherry flavors added to the elements of the nose and an obvious tannic presence that does not dry; long, fruit-filled finish. A year ago this was what so many said about the 1998 vintage in Burgundy; tannic and closed. Today it is reborn to round, dense fruit, no drying or harsh tones and a lovely finesse that just wasn’t there in the past. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $15 on sale; I’d buy it again.” After being opened and re-stoppered overnight, this is even rounder, more integrated and fuller in the mouth with a soft mouth feel and a very resolved structure. Both wines were chosen to go with the grilled chicken based on their being a classic pairing for such a dish. Diane and I agreed that the Lafarge matched it the best as it did not over-power the flavors and its textures matched the texture of the chicken better than the Fleurie, which did seem to be too big to pair well with this food. I think the Fleurie is a bit young for anything but stronger flavored meats at the moment, but I know these Coudert wines develop beautifully in the cellar. Best, Jim

First: a salad of arugula, manchego, walnuts and figs 2005 J.J. Christoffel, Riesling Kabinett Erdener Treppchen: Sweeter than many kabinetts, this still has plenty of stony backbone and acidic cut with fresh and lively white fruit and floral aromas and flavors. 9% alcohol, imported by Skurnik, screw cap, price unknown – thanks Bill. The sweetness in this wine matched well with the figs and contrasted with the cheese and nuts; a good match. Second: pasta with a puréed sauce of almonds, fresh tomatoes, fresh basil and garlic 2001 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: Started out a bit angry with some shrillness to the acidity and little fruit; after about an hour all was forgiven as this became a mini-Barbaresco at peak. Needs a little time in the cellar or the decanter but opens to be much more than the label says. 13% alcohol, imported by Locasio and about $20 on release; I’d buy it again. Perfect with the dish as the acid cut the richness of the nut purée and the flavors were not so powerful as to overwhelm the freshness of the tomatoes and basil. Also tried with the second course: 1998 Lafarge, Bourgogne: Cocoa powder and plum nose; round and full in the mouth with sour cherry flavors added to the elements of the nose and an obvious tannic presence that does not dry; long, fruit-filled finish. A year ago this was what so many said about the 1998 vintage in Burgundy; tannic and closed. Today it is reborn to round, dense fruit, no drying or harsh tones and a lovely finesse that just wasn’t there in the past. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $15 on sale; I’d buy it again. Very good with the dish; the medium weight delivery matched the texture of the pasta and the nutty flavors in the sauce seemed to come alive against the cocoa/fruit flavors of the wine. Diane and I agreed that both wines were well matched to the dish but preferred the nebbiolo somewhat over the Burgundy. We also agreed that both wines were of high quality and we look forward to tasting them in the future (we have more of both). Best, Jim

2005 Philippe Portier, Quincy: This bottling won the Médaille d’Or in Paris 2006 and I can see why as it is powerfully scented, rich and viscous in the mouth yet backed by bright acidity, salty minerality and has good complexity and length. Nonetheless, the nose smells strongly of cut grass (bordering on perm solution) and this element carries over to the palate. If you like well-made, grassy sauvignon, you’ll love this – I don’t. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Robert Kacher and about $12; I’ll not buy it again. 2006 Dry Stack Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc Rosemary’s Block: Tropical fruit, grapefruit nose with hints of vanilla, flint and stones; rich, fleshy, mouth-coating with no grassy or cat pee elements and good acidity; excellent length. Much the better wine for my tastes despite its 14.1% alcohol; about $20; I bought plenty. (Every bit as good on day two – ‘kept in the fridge overnight.) 2002 Allemand, Cornas: Cornas is my favorite expression of syrah; this has warm fruit aromas with earthy, smoky, meaty scents; a character driven, multi-faceted palate that is gutsy and somewhat rustic; a solid structure and a complex, lasting finish. And while this vintage may not have produced the most long-lived versions of the AOC, 2002 treated Thiérry Allemand just fine - this is pure, balanced, showing well and of its place. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $35; I bought plenty. 2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées VV: Pungent unripe pineapple, stone and fresh air aromas with good complexity; viscous, powerfully flavored wine with great cut, layers of flavor, more weight than expected, excellent balance and world record acidity; unbelievable length. I’ve tasted this wine at least 20 times since release and it never fails to impress – I know what’s coming and it still exceeds expectations. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $7, on sale; one of the best bargains of my life. Best, Jim

1992 Sullivan, Cabernet Sauvignon Coeur de Vigne: Funky on the nose with tannic smellies, at first; this opens nicely over an hour to bottle bouquet, depth, complexity, decaying leaves and aged cabernet-fruit smells; round in the mouth (which was completely unexpected as this label often is acidic) with layers of fruit, plenty of secondary development, slightly tight but it seemed to loosen over an hour and good balance – but, as is usual for this house, lots of puckery tannins; medium length, drying finish. Absolutely needs fatty food and when it is served with such fare, the tannins melt away and this becomes a great old cabernet. Still has lots of time left in the cellar and may shed some more of its tannic bite if aged a few years. 13.2% alcohol and about $45 on release; I’d not buy it again but only because it will outlive me; good wine. 1999 Nikolaihof, Riesling Steiner Hund: Pretty tight at the moment and not showing near the depth and power of previous bottles; pineapple/resin nose with white fruit and floral tones; tight and focused in the mouth while showing bright and stony; excellent length. We were having sausages (chicken) with Swiss chard and I thought this might work – it did but not to the extent I’d hoped. Hold. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Skurnik and about $40 on release; if I could find it at that price, I’d buy it by the case (based on previous showings). 2004 Pepière, Muscadet Clos des Briords VV: Very few wines make me giddy; a black pepper, cream soda and citrus nose that is expansive and penetrating; viscosity with great cut, complex and intense flavors follow the nose with all sorts of earthy and fresh herb hints (much more open than last year), incredible acidity, perfect balance; astounding length. If I understand the concept, umami is loosely defined as “the essence of deliciousness;” this wine is packed with it. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $13 on release; back up the truck! (Aside: Being as honest as possible when being also slightly giddy, it is difficult for me to remember a wine (white or red) I’ve enjoyed as much as this one. I’m sure there have been some but they don’t readily pop to mind, particularly with a sip of this on the palate. A truly “great” wine, showing beautifully.) 1997 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Parmelee Hill: Red/black robe; black-cherry cola and warm plums on the nose; the same on the palate with little development or complexity; medium length finish. Ten years old and I have arrived much too early. Such are the lessons of wine. 14.2% alcohol, price unknown; thanks Steve. 2004 Dom. Leroy, Bourgogne: Quite complex on the nose with whole cluster character and depth to burn; smooth, precisely balanced and equally complex in the mouth with finesse and layer after layer of depth; long finish. Burgundy to its core and a memorable experience, even in youth, that stokes my love for the magic that can happen on the Côte. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Leroy and about $67; I’d buy it again. Best, Jim