Florida Jim

2005 A. et P. de Villaine, Bourgogne Blanc Les Clous: Racy sounds about right; solid chardonnay without a lot of extras from oak and special yeast, drinking nicely now but has a lot of promise. 1999 Dom. Bizot, Vosne-Romanee VV: St. Joseph on both the nose and palate; no Vosne spice, plenty of black and green olive and a texture that is halfway between pinot and syrah. Not a bad wine but one so atypical that I have to look twice at the label. Could oak staves that weren’t well dried do this? 2005 Philippe Faury, St. Joseph: Olives on the nose with good syrah fruit and some spice; elegant but intense in the mouth with clear flavors and lovely balance; medium length, very clean finish. 12.8% abv., very St. Joseph and faultless balance – what more can one ask? 2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées: Showing very well; richer aromatics than one expects for Muscadet, etched and deep flavors of citrus, spring water and pineapple juice, concentrated textures and considerable sustain. Hard to wait any longer to drink, although I’m sure it will age well. 1999 Dom. des Remizières, Hermitage Cuvée Emilie: Completely resolved, wonderful balance and very fine grained; perhaps, a more feminine style than Chave, for instance, but utterly charming and one beautiful syrah. 2005 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Bassetti Vnyd.: A completely different wine then it was seven months ago; no longer that barrel sample character, this has thrown a large amount of sediment and is quite closed; much darker smells and flavors and a bit disjointed. This wine, or at least this bottle, was angry about being disturbed. Hold. 2007 Tablas Creek, Cotes du Tablas Blanc: A blended wine with a good bit of Viognier, this comes across as fresh and clean, lightweight, bright, moderately intense and of medium length. Refreshing and versatile; we had it with several different dishes and it did well. Delightful. Best, Jim

Hot on the left, payday is Friday and s##t runs down hill. 2006 Edmund Vatan, Sancerre Clos La Néore: On any other day, this gets the accolades it so richly deserves; youthful but pure, concentrated but lacy, singular and yet still complex – a paradox of a wine and all that Sancerre can be. I will put my few bottles away – perhaps, for my daughter – but regardless, for a day far in the future. A great wine of great promise but a pale pretender at the moment. 2000 Raveneau, Chablis Butteaux: There is chardonnay, there is Chablis; there is very, very good Chablis . . . and then, there is Raveneau. Not every time; more than enough expensive bottles that simply try and fail. But when you cross glasses with one that is on – “on” in a way you will never be able to describe and yet, you will be so moved you have to try – then the price, damnable as it seems, is worth it. Tonight, I was ready. It was a day of trepidation and, finally, of hope and now; festivization! It was a bottle I have had several times . . . and they have ranged from fine to so oxidized as to be undrinkable. So here is another . . . and the old saw is true – there are no great wines, only great bottles. No white wine has ever shown me this; penetrating, rich aromatics that swing from the crystalline splendor of taut, racy Chablis to the very edges of the envelope in this vineyard –biscuits with butter still warm from the oven, fresh citrus compote – the spreadable kind, lilting minerality, perfect balance, an opulent texture that never steps over into flab or syrup, utterly exquisite acidity on the finish that seems to expand in the mouth once I swallow and then, a glorious, layered, beautiful length that goes on and on until, finally, I can speak again. I have had a few very fine chardonnay wines at peak; Leflaive, DRC, Aubert, Dauvissat – none are within striking distance – on their best day. Tonight, accompanying shrimp scampi, this is the finest bottle of white wine of my life and the quintessential expression of all that great wine can be – life affirming, joyous, transporting, and the catalyst of that singular moment when one’s individual lows and highs meld with a unique experience to become the fabric of memory. Oh my! (And for those who are counting, yes, this note is surely about rule number three. So sue me.) Best, Jim

2002 Overnoy, Poulsard Arbois-Pupillin: Pale salmon/orange color; smells of pomegranate and forest floor – but somehow more than that; light-weight, spicy, vinous juice that is a party of flavors in the mouth – most of them difficult to isolate or describe, intense, racy and long. Not as fresh as my last bottle but still head and shoulders more intriguing than 90% of what’s out there. 2005 Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie: Has shed its succulent baby fat and is becoming more typical of Fleurie; fine grained aromatics; juicy, textural and concentrated in the mouth with some structure showing, and still pretty long. I drank a lot of this on release – it was such a boisterous, voluptuous wine. But what is below all that is on another plane of deliciousness and its just starting to show. Drink or hold. 2005 Tribut, Chablis Côte de Lechét: A curious bottle – somewhat closed on the nose but open in the mouth with lip-smacking fresh lemon-custard flavors, a hint of salt and some lovely floral tones; medium length. Probably needed decanting or a couple more years in the cellar. Good wine. 2006 Talley, Pinot Noir San Luis Obispo: When opened, crunchy and interesting; by the time we had gone through this 375 ml, sugary, soft and forgettable. Not much there. 1999 Bruno Clavelier, Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts: A great terroir, a fine vintage and a winemaker with skills – ruined by poor sanitation; a brett bomb. There is a very nice wine underneath all that horse-blanket but I can’t get to it, won’t try and now I question whether the rest of my bottles are similarly infected. Unacceptable behavior with an avoidable problem. Shameful! Best, Jim

2005 Pépière, Muscadet Granite de Clisson: Wow! What was, on release, a soft but ample wine is now brilliant, streamlined, focused and quite deep. ‘Packed with laser-like fruit, a substantial mineral core and length to burn. Spectacular wine! 1989 Baumard, Savenièrres: Too oxidized to show much but a bit of chenin goodness peeking through. 1999 Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin VV: Full, rich, textural wine with a heady bouquet and a long, sensuous mouth-feel. Still partially closed but showing nicely and excellent with several dishes including sherry-marinated pork tenderloin. 1995 Maison Leroy, Beaune Villages: Firm, clean and appealing; not as rich as the foregoing wine; more focused and structured. Very clearly of its place and has many years ahead of it in the cellar. Best, Jim

You were warned. Best, Jim

I also had this recently and was unimpressed, although I did not get any oxidative notes. Best, Jim

I'll be darned. Best, Jim

So John, has that title got enough flair for you? 2006 Courier Wines, Sauvignon Blanc Ryan’s Vineyard: Bottle 403 of 516 produced; golden color; smells as though there was quite a bit of skin contact during fermentation and perhaps some oxidative treatment along the way – sort of apple cider meets smoke and stones; very similar in the mouth except it tastes like wine not cider and it’s a bit disjointed, considerable acidity, slight oxidative tones – a complex and somewhat perplexing flavor profile; good length and crisp. The 14.3% alcohol is nowhere to be seen. Given some time and air this starts to come together and display a very pleasant honeyed note that wasn’t there upon opening and the fruit in the mouth opens up to show juicy, fresh (but slightly tart) pineapple, lemon and tonic flavors. Demands food and your attention and deserves some time in the decanter and to be served closer to room temperature than not. Quite unusual and quite young. 2006 Scholium Project, San Floriano del Collio: Pinot grigio fermented on the skins, 16.9% alcohol; looks like a dark, cloudy rosé; smells like cherry pits; tastes . . . well, that’s where descriptors fail . . . there is cherry and cherry pit, there is fresh water, there is stone but there is – sort of an essence of terra firma, something heady from the earth but not from the crust of the earth (I know how weird that sounds but . . .), its intense and viscous, liqueur-esque, tannic and dry; very long. But there is a sweet, almost syrupy note that I can’t reconcile and don’t care for. Maybe with something spicy; I’ll put this bottle back in the fridge and try it again. Day two with spicy sesame noodles: Much the same; perhaps a bit more aromatic but that syrup note is still there and the alcohol is showing. This wine is for wild boar with hot chilies or very pungent cheese. I tried a barrel sample of the Reserva of this wine (another year in barrel) and thought the alcohol integrated better and the fruit had more pop – but there’s only about 30 gals. of it so it won’t get wide retail play. 2007 Scholium Project, Naucratis Lost Slough Vnyd.: Traditionally fermented and 14.9% alcohol; if, when you think of verdejo, you think of the racy, crisp wine from Rueda, then you will be taken aback by this one – oh yes, this is verdejo but this is it taken to the nth degree; no wood in evidence anywhere, a pungent nose of white fruit, spice and earth; huge in the mouth, forceful flavors of verdejo, depth, viscosity, the fruit is so potent its sweet, good balance and intensity; moderately long finish with the slightest hint of heat. This is Rueda, squared or, perhaps, cubed. Beautiful wine, if you like things a bit out-sized. 2006 Tenbrink, Chardonnay Suisun Valley: About 300 cases made and 15.7% alcohol; a touch of butter on the nose gives way to attractive mineral tones that play around in mango/pineapple/citrus fruit – but there is also a very subtle oxidative note that is more understated than the foregoing wine and just hint of alcohol; one big mouthful of chardonnay but not ponderous, there is a butter-scotch streak here but it doesn’t overwhelm and the acidity is refreshing – still this is not for those who want a delicate chard., varietally straight-forward; not especially long and ever so slightly cloying. I don’t think I’d have this again – it’s just not my style. A word about the Scholium Project wines (and others made at the facility including Courier and Tenbrink): Abe Schoener is a lofty, charismatic fellow with the demeanor of a garrulous lunatic and the heart of a poet. He is clearly from some distant planet, transported here and living among us, only just. His wines are, I think, extensions of his personality; untamed, outlandish, celebratory and challenging. They are not for the faint of heart. Having settled in CA, he is provided annually with powerful fruit from which to makes his wines – and he coaxes every ounce of flavor and power out of each grape. If you are tied to stereotypes or varietal correctness, shop elsewhere. But if you can accept amplitude and eccentricity; extraordinary techniques and a complete disregard for the “should tapes” that seem to run through so many of the minds of people who make, drink and critique wine, then saddle-up. You’re going love them or hate them and you will be surprised; I guarantee it. 2001 Edmunds St, John, Los Robles Viejos Rozet Vnyd.: “The old oak trees” may be its title but there is nothing here that speaks of barrels; scented like cinnamon hard candy with cherry and stone elements; a bit angular in the mouth but an hour decant fleshed it out; silky, racy, focused flavors similar to CdP with good balance and sustain. Requires decanting and is worth the wait. 1999 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vieilles Vignes: Not fully mature but more resolved than at release, this is full, rich, persuasive wine with a clear terroir and a presence that few wines, let alone Beaujolais, carry; quite long. From vines over 85 years of age and shows it. Magnificent stuff that needs time and rewards patience. Best, Jim

I just got back from Sonoma County where I spent a week working in a winery, helping to bottle my own (and other’s) wines and generally doing all things wine. Quick thoughts: Anybody notice Russell Bevan’s picture in the Wine Spectator; Mr. Rising Star, or so it appears. (Please, nobody tell him you saw it.) Greywacke Vineyard (next to Gary Farrell) out in the Russian River is close to coming on line. Lots of Rhone varietals there and the vineyard looks like Côte Rotie. Gray Stack (formerly Dry Stack) will get most of the fruit but there will be some other folks getting some, too. This should be a really good source. I don’t know how many of you have heard of Catherine Blagden, making wine under her last name; I don’t think she sells retail at all. But her wines appear in some restaurants in CA and, if you see them, they are very worth a try. Lovely, feminine, balanced chards. and pinots. I visited Kosta-Browne and tasted some of their already bottled wines and quite a few of their barrel samples. I don’t think I’m every going to be on Michael Browne’s Christmas card list, but I tasted a number of new wines that are so much more pure and precise than what I had tasted several years ago, that even I was impressed. And for a guy with my tastes and a severe case of oak-o-phobia, that is saying something. One cuvee (it will get blended, unfortunately) may be the prettiest west coast pinot I’ve ever had. Good work going on there. How about Scholium Project? You have got to meet Abe Schoener – the man is as engaging and unique as is his approach to wine-making. And his wines are just off the charts. He’s doing some experimentation with white grape, skin-contact fermentations (something I am interested in) and the wines are like nothing else from this country. You may like them, you may not, but you won’t go away saying that they taste the same as anything else, at least not anything made in the states. He’s also doing more traditional fermentations with both white and red grapes and the wines are provocative and delicious. Great stuff happening here. I had a lot of great wines, took no notes and thoroughly enjoyed most of them. ‘Sorry about the lack of notes but sometimes its better to be a participant than an observer. And I brought a case of my syrah home to put in the cellar and try in a couple months. We’ll see how that worked out . . . Best, Jim

N/V Marques de Monistrol, Cava Brut Reserva: Bone dry, steady bead, clean and mineral driven Cava that more than delivers as a fine accompaniment to appetizers. $9. Dinner was gruyere gratin, asparagus wrapped in smoked salmon and sautéed mushrooms: 2006 Paolo Bea, Santa Chiara: A white wine blend that is fermented and aged on its lees; bronze color but not even a hint of oxidation; tannic, concentrated, textural wine with some naturally sweet fruit elements among a profile that is mostly earthy, peppery and mineral driven; intense, almost thick with a presence is arresting and an ethereal slant that is hard to describe. Fabulous with the gratin. 2003 Radikon, Ribolla Gialla (500 ml): The same color as the foregoing wine and another skin-contact white wine; aggressively dry in the mouth with high acidity and a thick, layered, deep series of flavors and textures that are as hard to describe as they are to isolate. Opens over the course of two hours and matches with the asparagus and salmon the best. After dinner: 1992 Belle, Hermitage: Showing very well with mostly game, decay and complex fruit notes on both the nose and palate with excellent balance, a precise structure and lots of length. A fine wine at its peak. Best, Jim

On my way to the left-coast in two days, so we tried some interesting wines: 1999 Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras: Red/black color but translucent; moderately expansive nose with depth and nuance, earthy/stony/leafy, some secondary development; cool but rich in the mouth, some tannin, more nuance than on the nose, black cherry, the impression of quartz dust, harmonious, balanced, intense; good length and grip but nothing drying. A very classy wine with an earthiness that accents a medium bodied fruit profile nicely. Feminine but firm and very Chambolle. (Diane is enthusiastic – a very rare occurrence.) 2000 Raveneau, Chablis Butteaux: Perfect fill, no evidence of seepage, pristine cork and oxidized beyond recognition – my first encounter with premox in white Burgundy and I don’t like it one bit. 2005 Tribut, Chablis Côte de Lechét: Starting to close down – only decanting and vigorous swirling helps; lots of promise but pretty tight and funky tonight. Seems to be snapping shut very rapidly. Hold. 1999 Nigl, Sauvignon Blanc: Grassy/perm solution evident on the nose but also fresh mango-like fruit with some unripe melon aromas; much less of the grassiness in the mouth with fresh jalapeño, citrus and white fruit flavors mixed with mango, lip-smacking, complex and very bright; very long, crisp finish. The grassy odors and flavors are not for me; the rest of the wine is off-the-charts delicious. Best, Jim

This was the case with Diane for years. I suspect that what finally got her over the hump was to hear me criticize wines that were very highly touted or very expensive or both. Well, that and developing her own palate experience, which is the key to it all. Best, Jim

2004 Giacosa Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore: Bright cherry with a bit of tar on the nose . . . and something that almost, but not quite, smells like insecticide; medium bodied and quite dry in the mouth with significant tannin and a stony quality; long, somewhat drying finish. OK, this tasting note doesn’t make it sound spectacular but, it is. The purity of each element, the way they meld into something heady and more enticing, and the exceptional character in the finish – this is very fine and has a long life in the cellar despite a good showing this evening. 2003 Giacosa Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore: Not near the clarity and focus of the above wine; still good nebbiolo that, despite its amped-up delivery is true to its place and vintage. Good with pizza but, IMO, not worth the extra tariff for the vineyard designate. (Aside: I should say that the 2003 is a good nebbiolo d’Alba and representative of that DOC, albeit larger than normal. The 2004, OTOH, is more Barbaresco or Barolo-like in delivery and hence, exceeds its DOC label.) 1995 Laurel Glen, Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain: No brett or VA; some secondary development and bottle bouquet; varietally correct and detailed with cassis and old furniture aromas, very clear and clean fruit flavors with layers of accents including stone, herb and decay; long and intense finish. ‘Not many CA cabernets I care a twit about but this could make me reconsider. 2005 Michel Tete, Juliénas Dom. du Clos de Fief: Starts tight with straightforward gamay odors and ripe, pure flavors; after about two hours in the decanter it loosens up and shows some complexity, minerality and focused fruit aromas and flavors; also its length extends and layers out. Clearly needs cellaring but some time decanted helps to get a glimpse of where this is headed – a very good place, indeed. 2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Dom. Pierre de La Grange: Sweet resin and grapefruit skin smells along with notes of rock and waterfall; more fruit in the mouth than the nose would have me believe – amplitude and depth with good concentration and sustain. A young wine but a nice showing. 2005 Dom. du Clos Naudin (Foreau), Vouvray Sec: Citrus skin, honey and flowers on the nose – layered but discreet; bright and etched in the mouth with similar flavors and a peppery note that’s hard to describe – everything is punched up a notch – concentrated, intense, very pure and balanced with much greater depth than anticipated; unusually long. Surprisingly, still pretty open and generous. IMO, this will age into one of the better examples of its AOC; limitless potential. Best, Jim

If you ask me, they are fairly poor guides for more experienced wine consumers, as well, regardless of the theory espoused in the abstract. For myself, I can say that it has been at least eight years since I have read any of the professional reviewers in print and that my price point per bottle of wine in my cellar has moved lower over that same period, despite euro/dollar conversion rates and the evident increase in wine pricing overall. Best, Jim

1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Wahle Reserve: Dark and brooding with strong smoky accents – all bass notes on the nose; much the same in the mouth – not closed but fairly monolithic; medium length finish. Better with food. Too dark noted for me but I can see where others would like it better, but if I were guessing, I think the fruit will fade before the structure so I won’t keep it long term. 2002 Jadot, Moulin-à-Vent Chat. Des Jacques: No evidence that this is gamay – more Beaune/Corton in nature with a restrained, firm, mouthful of red fruit with black fruit accents and forceful minerality. Too early to this but quite impressive. 2002 Terres Dorees (Brun), Beaujolais L’Ancien: This vintage had a reduction problem so I have let my bottles sit – not much difference when opened now. But I put it in the refrigerator and got it as cold as I could and, bingo – reduction gone! Certainly not giving the depth and nuance that wine at room temp. would but its bright, cheery and shows no flaw – lovely with lunch. 2001 Sella, Lessona: The ultimate ‘no brainer’ in nebbiolo; aromatic, delicious, varietally typical, complex and long – and cheap. Terrific stuff. 2005 Alesia, Syrah Fairview Ranch: Too oaky on both the nose and palate when opened – so I set it aside and came back to it two hours later – much better; still some gentle oak but now the wine is about fresh meat, blood, salt and syrah; quite concentrated, weighty, thick textured but balanced, layered and a distinct salty minerality. On day two it is more integrated and smooth, still some oak noticeable and the minerality is more apart of the whole. This needs time and with its considerable stuffing, I think it will integrate its wood and its other elements and become one of the more individual syrahs from the leftcoast. Best, Jim

2006 Weil, Riesling Estate Trocken: A nice, deep, dry riesling with good varietal character, structure and length. Lovely with a dish of pasta with chicken, zucchini and cream sauce. Diane and I had our lunch out on the porch (covered) in a rain storm. Toward the end of our lunch, it really started to come down. Next thing I know, we are racing around the yard naked, dogs trying to keep up, whooping and hollering (and barking) like youngsters. (Obviously, it’s a good thing we live on ten wooded acres.) Then, back up on the porch to the last of the wine, laughing hard and toweling off very excited (and soaked) dogs. I haven’t any idea how all this got started but I’m buying more of this bottling the first chance I get. Best, Jim

An invitation to have dinner with Mark and Kay is always well received. So we took our bottle of starter wine up to their home in the clouds and settled in for what would be, one of those nights. With crackers and assorted cheeses: 2004 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet L d’Or: Richer and deeper than the vast majority of Muscadet, this wine was showing open and very engaging; I found a viscous texture illuminated by bright acidity, excellent concentration and a long, clean finish. I think that others were similarly impressed. Good with cheeses. Interim: 2006 A & M Quenard, Vin de Savoie Abymes: Dry, crystalline wine with lovely floral, fresh herb and mineral accents to light-bodied, fresh white fruit. Chraming and much more complex than expected. Showed well. With a salad of beets, fennel and watermelon: 2007 Lucien Crochet, Sancerre Pinot Rosé: Only Cotat is on the same level as this producer of fine rosé in France; crisp, fresh, mineral-filled wild strawberry fruit with a clean finish. Superb with the dish. With corn purée, fingerling potatoes and butter infused lobster: 1985 Long-Depaquit, Chablis Blanchots: Have you ever made homemade crackers? – that’s what this smells like – with hints of fruit, stone, fresh fish and earthy-unexplainable-stuff; deep, very bright flavors that are not in the same place as the nose – here’s viscous fruit, honeyed flavors, nutty and intense; extremely long and complex. There’s a brioche quality in this wine that seems to extend from first sip to final waft; a wine that never saw wood and yet is so multifaceted that describing it becomes an exercise in futility. Sensational with the dish. And, 1980 Bouchard Père et Fils, Corton-Charlemagne: Smells of day old fish, dry earth, old linen and under-ripe pears – not particularly attractive on the nose; the palate, OTOH, stretches the envelope on chardonnay – incredibly complex, flavors and nuances growing, morphing and fading, lots of density amid vivid elements of stone, citrus, butter, hazelnuts, white fruit and mushroom; alive and concentrated in the mouth – many changing profiles – at once fruit oriented and then, in an instant, something of the earth and the dirt and the fertilizer – odd but intriguing; very long but fading at the end. Stupid good with the food. After dinner: 1985 Ridge, Lytton Springs: 80% zinfandel, 11% carignane and 9% grenache; I guessed an old Tuscan sangio. based wine – nothing here indicates zin. or grenache and only the most lenient would find carignane; a little vinyl on the nose detracts but from then on, its all integrated, red wine with an Italian slant that leads to a mellow, clean finish that lasts. Drink with someone you love. Best, Jim

2005 Tribut, Chablis Côte de Léchet: Thrilling wine that has developed considerably since release; lemon drop, flint, slightly honeyed nose with floral accents – expansive and penetrating; dense in the mouth but not heavy with bright flavors that echo the nose, superb concentration, precise balance, round textures and great length. This wine retains its Chablis-ness and its vineyard stamp of elegance but amps up its aromas and flavors. All at a cost of $26; what a steal! 2002 Jacky Janodet (Dom. Les Fines Graves), Moulin à Vent: It seems that many of the 2002 cru Beaujolais are closed now and this follows that trend; less of everything on the nose and palate from its showing on release but still well balanced and decent length. ‘Needs cellaring. 2004 Tissot, Chardonnay Arbois: An interesting contrast to the Chablis noted above - this has a musky edge to it with earthier tones to the fruit; still its deep, concentrated, beautifully textured, has excellent structure and plenty of length. Is slightly plusher than the Chablis yet the balance is spot-on and the overall impression is one of elegance. A fine wine and a bargain at $23. 2004 Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo Pétalos: Smells like CA cabernet franc with a little dirt thrown in, a hint of smoked bacon and a little (too much for me) sweet oak; much the same in the mouth with a hint of chocolate and tea; evident tannin; medium length, somewhat drying finish. A bit too ‘made’ for me but not devoid of terroir and better with food. $16. Best, Jim

Sometimes, Asimov is a learning experience. His recent column on the merits of red wine that is served very cold made an impression. 2002 Clos Roche Blanche, Gamay: The geranium nose is beaten back and it’s mostly light fruit scents; really nice in the mouth with crisp acidity backing fresh fruit and mineral flavors; medium length. Being refrigerator cold made the difference; I like this wine now whereas, at cellar temperature, not so much. Speaking of learning, I thank Claude Kolm for introducing me to the wines of Aubert de Villaine (no, not DRC) from the Côte Chalonnaise: 2005 de Villaine, Bourgogne La Digoine: A feminine wine but a female who does four hours of pilates a day and only eats one meal; lovely clear scents of cherry and Burgundy; elegant but intense fruit with good complexity and a grace that is hard to describe but easy to love; fine length. Still young but utterly pure and fabulous. 2005 de Villaine, Mercury Les Montots: The masculine version from this house with a gamey aroma and a meaty texture, even more complex than the preceding wine but less ready to drink with some unresolved tannin and a slightly disjointed finish. Even so, one of the best pinots I’ve had this year. The first wine was $32 and the second $38; I can’t think of any better pinot noir wines at that price. And these have a future in the cellar – there isn’t a doubt about that. If you can remember only one name in Burgundy, remember this one. Best, Jim

2004 Anselmi, Capitel Croce: This is oak aged Soave and although it is good wine and not overwhelmed by the wood, for me it tastes dull; I really don’t think garganega takes well to oak. (Pieropan’s, La Rocca may be an exception to that rule but it doesn’t seem to be every vintage.) Maybe this will work for some but the freshness is missing for me. Give me this producer’s Capitel Foscarino (single vineyard, in stainless), every time. 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Moulin à Vent Les Deux Roches: Open and generous (which was not expected) with deep, pure scents and flavors, medium weight, texturally like worsted wool and long. Has a distinct mustard note in the nose but the palate is fruit-rich, mineral accented and layered. The mineral element here is different from most wines; it seems richer and kind of meaty – an odd way to describe it, I know, but that’s the impression it leaves. Still showing quite young but arresting in every way. 2006 Emilio Rojo, Ribeiro (blanco): As complex a nose and palate as any wine in my cellar; unique character that is sort of honeyed mango/lemon meets mineral/salty acidity, delineated in the mouth, substantial but balanced and lots bright accents lead to an exceptionally long finish. I do not use the word unique carelessly here; a real find for people who demand something singular and delicious. About $40, available almost nowhere but worth both the price and the search. Best, Jim

1999 Hirtzberger, Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl: This is aging at a glacial pace but it is profound wine; floral on the nose with cracked pepper and grüner smells; intense flavors but wound very tightly – still there is a precision here; cream soda without the sweetness, depth in its crisp fruit flavors, crystalline structure/acidity, honeyed textures, immense concentration – this wine is one of the most impressive white wines I have encountered and it is barely out of diapers. One I set aside for my daughter. 2006 Qupé, Syrah: For basic, bottom-end syrah, this is good. Alluring plum/cherry aromas accented with earth and new leather scents; very pure in the mouth as it highlights the elements of the nose and expands into layers of each; perhaps just a touch sweet but the wine seems to catch itself before it dives over the edge into syrup; delineated, medium length finish. For $17, really hard to beat. 2006 Do Ferreiro, Albariño Cepas Vellas: Some wines are the essence of their variety/AOC/type – here is one of them – if you ever want to know what albariño should taste like, this is the gold standard; the nose is fresh and cool, sea air, minerality, light spice and fruit tones; the palate is richer and rounder than the nose implies with solid fruit and spice elements that are accented in layered/fleeting/tempting ways by salt, brine, mineral, fresh air, tonic water and earth – the whole is far greater than the sum of its parts; balanced, sumptuous, sitting-on-the-shore-of-the-Atlantic-and-reveling-in-your-senses powerful. We had it with a warm chic pea salad and it carried us away. ¡Impresionante! 2002 Chidaine, Montlouis Les Choisilles: 100% quince on the nose, powerful, singular and resonant; not as simple in the mouth but quite intense, deep flavors, tangy accents, good minerality and outstanding length. What’s not to like? (Aside: I like a fair number of CA wines but I find that many if not most of them are lacking something. I have tried to identify it; call it place, or terroir; or character – I am lost for words so, for the moment, let me call it essence. This wine lacks essence. It is good wine, maybe very good but there is little here that will bring me back. Like the Chablis of Fevre; something is just not there. Technical wines that meet all the scoring criteria and yet are lost to my heart. And there it is – to my heart. Sometimes it’s personal and nothing more.) Best, Jim

1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Murto Vnyd.: A beautiful nose – all earth, leaves and smoke, overlaying black fruit and stone; much the same in the mouth with bright acids, feminine textures and vivid intensity; quite long and refreshing. Made me think more of Clos de la Roche than Oregon but, I’m not complaining. As it opens in the glass this wine “youngs-up” as the fruit takes on sweetness and the structure becomes more youthful. By the last glass it gave the impression of many years to go before peak. An interesting experience and a good bottle. 2001 Boxler, Pinot Blanc: Juicy, fresh, tangy and remarkably long for the variety; much better than expected and really an uplifting sort of experience. Yummy with shrimp puffs and equally so on its own. 1999 Dujac, Chambolle-Musigny: Not at peak but showing some secondary development, refinement, excellent balance and so Chambolle; an elegant, layered wine that will always be feminine in delivery. Lovely with cheese soufflé. 2002 Ridge, Lytton Springs: Big assed zin./petite with a bit too much new American wood for me. But these often integrate with time and I would expect this to do likewise given another 8-10 years. Has the stuffing to live well past that. Beef brisket with raisin sauce helped. We had opened a bottle of 2005 Philippe Faury, St. Joseph a week ago (7 days) and not finished it. There was one glassful left in the bottle that had been recorked but left on the counter. Absolutely delicious with warmed fruit and fresh herb smells; a rich, bright, smooth mouth feel that has nice complexity and a salty minerality but is still completely integrated with a long finish. Not the slightest indication of oxidation or other effects from being open so long. Wow! 2004 Gorrondona, Bizkaiko Txakolina: From clay and slate soils in the Basque region of Spain, this is hondarrabi beltza fermented in stainless; it is one odd critter with a nose of smoldering rosemary, thyme and fresh spearmint with just a hint of red cherry; the same in the mouth except the sweet cherry element is dominant, crisp, juicy, lightly tannic and a bit drying on a fairly long finish. Too herbaceous for me but an interesting wine and one that seems to be aging at a slow pace. Not bad with cheeses. More integrated and smoother on day two but retaining much of its herbal character – more Chinon-esque now. 2002 Nigl, Grüner Veltliner Senftenberger Piri: Open and generous from the first pour; round in the mouth with intense veltliner flavor, good acidity and nice length. Not as austere as previous vintages with a richness I seldom see in Nigl wines so young. Very good and only 12% abv. 1998 Lafarge, Bourgogne: In contrast to the Dujac mentioned above, solid, rustic, masculine pinot with medium tannins and big flavors. 12.5% alcohol and yet a ‘big’ feeling wine. For accompanying stews and roasts. Good. 2002 Allemand, Cornas: Red plum, cherry, olive, a slight charred note and herb on the nose; lovely sweet fruit with olive and leather accents in the mouth, some tannin, quite elegant and despite the smells and flavors of Cornas, little of the power and rusticity; medium length finish. Not the most concentrated nor complex Cornas but certainly charming in its own way and, I think, an example of the vintage that shines on account of the winemaker. Delicious with sausage with white beans and kale. Best, Jim

A group of locals gathered to welcome the VLM back to North Carolina at this stop on his drive from CA to Raleigh: With an assortment of cheeses and crackers, and, radicchio wrapped marinated goat cheese: 2002 Gravner, Ribolla Amfora (magnum): An unusual nose – mint, pine, cooked white fruit, unripe pineapple, forest floor, warm stones and some smoky accents – very complex and also very difficult to put into words; smooth, tannic and equally complex in the mouth with density and potent flavors; very long. As others have noted, had I not seen the wine was white, I would have guessed it red. Not a wine for everyone but absolutely one of my favorites – what character! Well matched to the cheeses. With grilled NY strips with corn and baked potato salad: 1997 Jaboulet, Hermitage La Chapelle (magnum): Decanted 6 hours and, IMO, much the better for it; leather, stone and deep syrah fruit on the nose with hints of cinnamon, bacon and cold stream water; medium weight on the palate but intense and integrated, flavors follow the nose, pretty balance and the impression of latent power; quite long and clean on the finish. I tasted this when first opened and the decant helped immeasurably. Showing very well but clearly has lots of time in the cellar left. Devine with the steaks. Throughout the evening we also opened: 1996 Gouges, Nuits-St.-Georges Les Pruliers: Others liked this better – I found it still fairly closed and ungenerous. A good wine but not one that touched me. 1993 Leroy, St. Aubin (rouge): OTOH, this wine had a bottle bouquet nose that was almost enough to carry me away; not quite as fine in the mouth with the tannin just a little outsized for the concentration but still a lovely wine and delicious with food. 1994 LaJota, Cabernet Franc: Served blind and most folks guessed nebbiolo – and I can see why. These old LaJota francs are intriguing and not something one would recognize without seeing the label. Not yet fully resolved. Nice with the steak. 2001 Sella, Lessona: Ah yes, real nebbiolo that can not be mistaken for anything else; medium weight, of its place and drinking very well today. Best, Jim

2006 Weil, Riesling Estate Trocken: First glass isn’t giving much; second glass is much better – pure floral and citrus aromas, nice fruit, spice and tonic water flavors and good length. Needs a quick decant and is a charming starter wine or accompaniment to lighter fare. I buy a case of this yearly. 2002 Alain Demon, Côte Roannaise Réserve La Perrière: Concentrated, integrated but straight-forward gamay; a little more earthy than Beaujolais, a little less bright, as well. Good wine but not worth the wait. 2004 Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana: A distinct milk chocolate note here with a light cherry note, some earthen tones and a bit of brown sugar (without the sweetness of sugar); elegant in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose, light-weight, clean and integrated; medium length. Nerello mascalese, often thought of us as a blending grape that provides alcohol and color, can also make wine that tastes delicious, doesn’t go over 14% and vints out translucent – and here it is. Sort of pinot noir-esque in texture and weight. Pretty stuff. 2001 Sella, Lessona: Characteristic nebbiolo smells and flavors in a medium to lightweight package, intense, layered, balanced and long. The acidity here is the perfect foil for food and the flavors are mostly in the earthy spectrum. $20 ay Astor right now. 2004 Dom. Leroy, Bourgogne: Very primary and a bit stemmy – but there’s more to this; density, concentration, focus – all in a latent mode. Not time to drink this but it still went well with pasta in a mushroom sauce – mostly because of its elegance and weight. Deserves future consideration. Best, Jim

Nah. But its nice to get back up to the mountains where I keep the cellar - a lot more variety here. Best, Jim