Florida Jim

2004 Chateau Bellevue la Forêt, Côtes du Frontonnais: Smells like a somewhat funky Rhône syrah mixed with red grapes, raspberries and dark cherries; tastes similar with a chalky/stony note, grip, medium weight, some complexity and intensity; medium length, slightly sour finish. This is made from the négrette grape (possibly blended with cabernet sauvignon, syrah and/or gamay) from an AOC in the SW of France south of Cahors. I like this for its nuance, openness, composure, lack of any wood smells or flavors and affinity for food. 12.5% alcohol, about $11, and imported by Wine Traditions of Falls Church, VA. Not for aging IMO, so I look forward to the incoming 2005 vintage. 2005 Pieropan, Soave Calvarino: The smell of desert sandstone on a cold morning, the inside of freshly peeled pineapple skin, cream soda, pine needles, something vaguely floral – the nose is fascinating and a joy to behold; strongly flavored but of whole cloth in the mouth, flavors that tend toward the elements of the nose but don’t repeat them, concentration without weight or cloying viscosity, focused with a compact sense to its overall delivery but still discrete, complex and bright on the palate, real depth; surging length that seem to reprise itself again and again. Obviously, has a shelf life. All garganega based wines should be measured against this one. At its $24 retail price, as good a QPR wine as this planet produces. 2007 Edmunds St. John, Bone Jolly Gamay Witters Vineyard: Fresh cherry and stone scents, expansive; bright, full fruit flavors with fine mineral and spice accents, lovely balance, silky texture and a full flavored, medium length finish. Life affirming, lively and so worth every penny of its $16 retail price. 2005 Alesia, Syrah Fairview Ranch: Smells of baked dark fruit and creosote, some earth and herb tones; rich and full bodied in the mouth with brooding syrah fruit flavors, some tar and Baker’s chocolate, quite concentrated and fairly long. I have found a creosote element in other syrahs but not to this degree – not a bad thing, but very unusual. 14.25% alcohol which was not noticeable. I suspect this has a long life ahead of it and may, at some point, veer in the direction of an aged Cornas. 1995 della Palazzola, Rubino: If I recall correctly, 80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% merlot from Umbria; I am no fan of the wines of Roberto Cotarella but this is unusual – right now, its too young, too closed and too tannic. Given another decade or more in bottle, I suspect this will be the rival of any of the very best Super-Tuscans. The aromatics are all about cabernet, including its herbaceous side, but there is also a stony, baked-earth component; a worsted texture in the mouth as the grip rules but also complex, fresh, and full of fruit – the question is, will the fruit live as long as the tannin; decant length but drying. What is not evident until one has a glass or two is the depth and dimension of this wine – it is vigorous, faceted and seems to deliver itself in layers, each more intriguing then the last. In what was a hard and tannic year, this wine seems to have more going for it than many of the other wines of its vintage. We shall see. $30, on release. Best, Jim

2000 Felsina, Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia (375 ml): No bricking; red and black fruit on the nose with warm earth and milk chocolate hints; medium weight, flavors follow the nose with a smoke accent, silky texture, somewhat resolved structure and good length that carries a certain low-register, baked, black fruit note. Not completely integrated but certainly on its way. Perfect with white pizza and salad. About $20 for this small size. 2007 Edmunds St. John, Bone Jolly Witters Vnyd.: Gamay from El Dorado County; expansive and pretty aromas of fresh cherry and crushed rocks; in the mouth its juicy with flavors that follow the nose; so lively and exuberant – wide open, youthful, lip-smackingly delicious wine that simply demands that you take another taste. There is substantial fruit, an almost hidden structure, a satin texture and a vibrancy that is hard to put into words - this is the bomb! $16; back-up the truck. 2007 Edmunds St. John, Porphyry Barsotti Ranch: Gamay from El Dorado County from granite soils; restrained aromas of dried cherry and mineral with a slightly smoky note; equally composed in the mouth with flavors that echo the nose, considerable grip, bright acids and a fairly closed fruit profile; excellent length. This demands cellar time and has the stuffing and structure to age a decade or more. Today, this is more an intellectual experience, as opposed to the sheer bliss of the preceding bottle. But what a future it promises; great wine, showing very young. $20, full retail. 2007 Nōmade, Torrontes: The most aromatic wine I have ever smelled – its like being in a grapefruit orchard on harvest day and having the wind blow in orange blossom and jasmine fragrance at the same time – this one really does explode from the glass – startling; vivacious on the palate (but not quite as overwhelming as the nose) with flavors that follow the nose and add pear and mint tones, lively acidity, very fresh and intense; medium length finish. An unforgettable wine. From Argentina, 13.3%alcohol and about $15. 2007 Dönnhoff, Riesling: With fried rice with chilies Diane says, “This is lovely wine.” It is, indeed. 10% alcohol and about $17. Best, Jim

2007 Biggio Hamina, Pinot Noir Deux Vert Vnyd.: Translucent; very high toned aromatics that seem just a touch under-ripe to me – not 2004 Burgundy green but just not quite full; elegant and pretty in the mouth with bright black cherry and mineral flavors dominant, moderate intensity and a trifle thin (but leaving the possibility that this will gain weight with age); medium length slightly sour finish. Given a year or two in bottle this may be an entirely different wine – the fact that I found no ‘green’ at all gives me hope. But today it comes across a little under-ripe and lacking concentration. 13% alcohol. I have another bottle or two and will age them and see what happens. I will say that if a producer has to miss my mark, I much prefer it this way than some over-ripe, alcoholic, knock-off for syrah. Once again I am convinced; this is a producer worth watching. 2006 Paul Bouchard, Pinot Noir Vin de Pays D’Oc: Good, solid, Burgundy styled pinot with ripe fruit, mineral undertones and enough nuance to keep it interesting, Easy to drink. On day two, it has gained complexity, integrated a little better and become even more pleasing both with and without food. Buy this buy the case at $9/bottle. 2005 Pieropan, Soave Classico Calvarino: I am a fan of garganega and have tasted through enough Soave to write an essay (just short of a book); as I see them, the players are Pieropan, Anselmi, Inama and, to some degree, Pra. Inama’s low-end stuff is his best, the rest flawed by too much wood; Anselmi’s, Capitel Foscarino (no wood) is wonderfully fresh and alive whereas, his Capitel Croce (aged in wood), seems to make the grape’s essential character into a caricature. Likewise, Pieropan’s, La Rocca (also aged in wood), while delicious in its way, comes short by virtue of its barrel exposure. But this is “it;” Calvarino – a single vineyard, fermented and aged in stainless and without question, a wine worthy of your cellar, year in and year out. And this is the vintage – god wine – and the best example of the grape/AOC I have ever tasted. It’s powerful, closed, firm, structured, bright but incredibly deep and utterly endless. A wine that probably needs a decade to show well and maybe another to attain its peak. Nothing else even comes close. One of wine’s great delights is this kind of discovery; a bottle that you absolutely know is a landmark example of what a grape and/or AOC can do. And it’s nice to have the rest of a case of this to follow through the years. About $24, full retail, delivered. Best, Jim

1995 Snowden, Cabernet Sauvignon: My last bottle from a case and I am not sad to see it go. The winemaker started with terrific fruit; ripe, concentrated, varietally pleasing and then the barrel program blew it. It’s not heinously over-oaked but it’s to the point that the fruit gets hidden behind a bit of vanilla here and a dab of dill there. Sometimes, a good dose of the fruit gets through and it’s delicious but too often there’s an overlay of wood. And at 13 years out, I can’t see it integrating. Maybe some will see this as complex; I don’t. 2006 Edmunds St, John, That Old Black Magic: Ah yes, all wine, no trees. A co-fermentation of grenache and syrah, this has a southern Rhône attitude and a CA intensity. Nuanced aromatics; a complete wine in the mouth with fine grained flavors, good structure and despite its 14.3% alcohol, an elegant and medium weight delivery. A joy to drink, especially after the preceding wine. 1993 Dom. Tempier, Bandol: Had a slight onion smell and flavor and is not full resolved – other than that, a very interesting bottle but one I would never have guessed from Bandol. 1999 Juge, Cornas Cuvée SC: Clearly of its place, fairly integrated and definitely in the feminine spectrum for the AOC. Has fleshed out some since the last bottle I had in October and carries a sort of ash note amid solid Cornas/syrah scents and flavors. Quilceda Creek, Cab./Merlot/Cab. franc blend: I didn’t catch the year and really don’t care; way too oaky on both the nose and palate – well past my threshold for such things. 2007 Biggio Hamina, Melon: A new winery in Oregon that appears to believe less is more; this is bright, acidic but balanced with pretty good depth and sustain. Not Luneau-Papin but a nice wine and quite good with chicken Caesar salad with crusty olive bread. A producer worth watching. Best, Jim

2005 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie Cuvée Tardive: When first opened, simply too much for me. Recorked and left on the counter overnight. 24 hours later it’s a superb, old-viney Fleurie with a core of focused flavors and burgeoning complexity. Lots of concentration here and plenty of stuffing to last the decade or so it probably needs. Still, with a little air, mighty fine. 2005 Foreau, Vouvray Sec: Pretty fruit on the nose but, on the palate, too early to the glass when first opened. Recorked and put back in the cellar. All wool aromatically on day two but better in the mouth with ripe chenin fruit, a strong mineral undercurrent and a lanolin note; intense and long. Needs a lot of cellar time. 2005 Cellar Magic, Sauvignon Blanc: Made by friends in Sonoma from Amador County fruit. Vinous, no grassy or cat pee smells, pleasant citrus and some tropical hints, 13.5 abv with a crisp, clean delivery. Good with lighter fare or on its own. 2005 de Villaine, Bourgogne (blanc) Les Clous: Great wine, young wine; ideal balance, lovely mineral tones amid equally charming fruit. Obviously, will benefit from cellaring. $25; ‘stealing. 2007 Dönnhoff, Riesling: This is the bottom-end Estate riesling from this producer but one would have a tough time convincing me there is anything bottom-end about it. Bright, clean riesling scents with a lightly honeyed tone, some flint and spring water; lightly sweet in the mouth but plenty of mineral driven acidity - lovely balance, nuanced flavors – some fresh cherry/cherry pit, excellent length. Imagine you are very thirsty and you get that first taste of mountain stream water; that’s the feeling this delivers with each sip. A fascinating wine and one with a future, no doubt. 10% abv. Best, Jim

I've gotta say I'm a bit stunned by this one, Jim. I was looking for the satire, for the wink, but not finding it. I've tasted some pretty good CA Barbera but nothing with that kind of age... and nothing I'd put ahead of G. Conterno or a good vintage from Elio Grasso (among others). Please do illuminate. ← David, No one was more surprised when the wine was revealed. I am told that these were estate vines when RR was still in Sonoma and that they were torn out shortly after this vintage making the 1990 the last one from this producer. I don't know if any of that is accurate. What I do know is that the wine was other-worldly. I was serious about going off by myself to concentrate entirely on my glass. Amazingly balanced, nuanced and long. I first thought it was sangiovese with considerable age from somebody like a Conterno or other high-end maker. What a surprise and what a wine. Best, Jim

2004 Lagar do Merens, Ribeiro (blanco): 80% treixadura with some lado, torrentes, loureira, godello and albariño; 12.5% alcohol and imported by Eric Solomon. Having previously enjoyed the Ribeiro, blanco from Emilio Rojo but found it pricey; I saw this and thought it might be a good alternative at $14. Although Rojo’s wine did not have as much treixadura in it, this came pretty close. The Merens is aromatic, well concentrated and flavorful, has a somewhat oily texture that is more enjoyable if the wine is cold and has plenty of finish. It reminds me of wines made primarily of Godello; a ripe white fruit and spice character throughout. A region with promise. 2005 Lan, Rioja Edición Limitada: Very oaky nose followed by a milkshake-like texture and lots of sweet fruit. Not my style of wine but, as it opened, I could begin to taste the tempranillo flavors (‘never did get past the wood on the nose). Surely, this will be a popular wine in the U.S. but a couple of sips were all I really wanted. 14%, quite expensive and nothing I’d buy but I appreciate the chance to try it. Thanks Joe. 1999 Trimbach, Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile: Good Alasatian riesling is a joy. This producer always impresses me with its focus – etched smells and flavors of pineapple, lime skin and mineral all join to form an integrated, bright, slightly understated effect. Zind Humbrecht and often, Weinbach, never quite get the laser sharpness in these elements – for me, that means I’ll have one glass of Z-H or Weinbach but be pleased to drink a bottle of Trimbach during my dinner. ‘Lots of years ahead of this bottling. 2007 Henry Fessy, Vin de Pays Doc Chardonnay: Charming, French chardonnay sans wood and with a pleasant mineral streak. Not grand or complicated but pretty in its modest way. 13% alcohol and excellent QPR at $8. 2006 Paul Bouchard, Vin de Pays Doc Pinot Noir: Correct, translucent, French styled pinot noir that is balanced and appealing. Not for aging and little complexity but entirely quaffable at $9. 1998 Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape: A little sweeter fruit than the last bottle with considerable structure and good balance; definitely of its place and finally opening after so many years a sleep. Some wines tasted blind: 1996 Jessandra Vittoria (Coturri), Santa Vittoria: A cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese blend that is a little pruney but still interesting. When unveiled, I remembered having some of this in my cellar some years ago. A bit too darkly framed and torrefied for me but sound and showing some development after 12 years. 1990 Rabbit Ridge, Barbera Grande Riserva: Great wine! Ethereal aromatics that are feathery, complex and evocative of the Italian countryside; completely resolved, silky smooth and nuanced to a degree that I take my glass off to a corner away from everyone just to concentrate on the wine. Appeals to the senses and the intellect, has developed both bottle bouquet and tertiary layers of aroma and flavor, and is at peak. Continues to develop in the glass and the finish goes on and on. 13% alcohol and the finest barbera based wine I’ve tried from anywhere. Oh my! Best, Jim

What I remember of wines consumed or tasted or the past several months: 2005 de Villaine, Bourgogne Les Clous: Chardonnay from the Côte Chalonnaise that is, according to de Villaine, meant to be vin de garde; while I see no reason to argue that fact, I can say that the wine is beautiful now. On release, this carried too much wood for me but it is now completely integrated – which probably says a lot for the concentration of fruit. Good complexity and outstanding balance make this lovely to drink. If I could say that one wine in the past two months was the one I most enjoyed, this would be it – by quite a margin. 12.5% alcohol and $25 retail. (And I will say again that this producer is simply the very best no-brainer buy in the market today if you like chardonnay and pinot noir; incredible wines at very reasonable prices) 1996 Lynch Bages: Has become Bordeaux, maybe even Pauillac, after starting out life as something from Napa. Has lots of future and now seems to be on track to become a fine Medoc. 2007 Grey Stack Cellars, The Folly: A syrah/grenache blend that is about as close to Côte Rôtie as this country can make. I know the history of this wine and, IMO, it is a minor miracle and a tribute to the winemaker’s blending skills. Very peppery, excellent acidity and nice complexity. About $32 retail and worth it. 1991 Chave, Hermitage: Lean but intense, certainly of its place and sound but past its peak. 1991 Chapoutier, Hermitage: (I know they have some proprietary designation on the label but I forget what it is.) Richer than the Chave but pretty generic stuff. 2003 Puffeney, Poulsard: Tasted blind and so many folks liked it without knowing why. When revealed almost everyone went “huh?” A much richer and fuller style than Overnoy’s but without the character and finesse. Still a conversation starter and good accompaniment to grilled flank steak. 2006 Overnoy, Arbois Pupillin: What poulsard can become when the planets align. Sensational aromatics, translucent color and flavors that are equally translucent to the terroir. Good length and more body than is the usual for this house; a great wine. 1998 Vieux Télégraph, CdP: Finally, opening up and becoming something worth drinking. I look forward to more of the same over the next several years as this is now showing some of the promise it suggested at release. The wines of Biggio Hamina of Gaston, OR. A new producer that seems to understand that hang time is not required to make fine wine and that good wine-making is about not screwing it up. I tried the 2007 Melon and although it will never replace the great estates of Muscadet, it was correct and enjoyable. The 2007 Pinot Blanc was pretty with a touch of RS (I think) and is probably better suited for starters than accompaniment – still, a wine that a large cross-section of drinkers will like. The 2007 Ana’s Vnyd., Pinot Noir was a reminder of the early days of Oregon pinot; not trying to be CA or anything other than itself; charming, elegant, translucent wine that makes you smile. I also have a bottle of the 2007 Deux Vert Vnyd., Pinot Noir that I will try soon and I understand that they do a non-vineyard designated pinot that is quite tasty and cheap. Admittedly, there is no track record here so we shall see where they go but at least they’re worth watching. 2007 Cartlidge and Browne, Pinot Noir: Nothing fancy here but a wine that everyone seems to at least think palatable and one I happen to like. A milk chocolate note softens the nose and palate but the wine is still balanced and complete. Good for quaffing and perhaps a bit more; 13.5% abv and about $14 retail. 2007 Edmunds St. John, Heart of Gold: 54% grenache blanc and 46% vermentino from El Dorado County. Taut, crisp, with a lightly bitter note that softens with food and very pretty acidity and balance. I’m guessing a year or two in bottle will allow it to develop even more. Diane made a pasta dish with white beans and greens and we both felt this may be one of the very best combinations ever. Something in this wine works with the sharp taste of the greens and everything got better. 2006 Edmunds St. John, That Old Black Magic: A co-fermentation of syrah and grenache that is greater than the sum of its parts. I had my hands in this stuff during fermentation so weight this note accordingly but I really like the wine. Not distinctly either variety and yet the wine captures elements of both. A nice Rhône-type blend with more elegance than many of the southern Rhône blends I’m used to. There were many more bottles along the way but, as is often the case when I’m in CA, we were not always paying attention to the wine. And I have long since given up carrying a note-pad. Participation is always better than observation. Best, Jim

So, it’s back to the west coast for the syrah harvest; finally the weather has warmed and kicked the sugar levels up. The fruit looks good and tastes even better; we should have deep wines this year. A couple of bottles tasted this week deserve a comment: 2006 Overnoy, Arbois Pupillin: I don’t know how anyone can do a better job with poulsard; this wine is translucent, aromatic, flavorful and perfectly balanced. With risotto Milanese it was just the thing – ‘cuts the richness but never overwhelms the saffron aromas and flavors – what a delight. And it has all the markings of wine that will cellar well. Finest kind. 2001 Edmunds St. John, Los Robles Viejos: Most of Steve’s wines are examples of purity; here a CdP blend is focused, balanced and flavorful yet restrained. Accompanies our meal with nuance and counterpoint but never overpowers it. The way wine should be. 2005 Philippe Faury, Saint Joseph: Good, earthy syrah that is not “too” anything but has plenty of complexity and poise. Elegant in delivery yet still intense and structured. An archetype for the AOC. 1998 Veiux Telegraph, CdP: Could use some more time . . . but as long as it’s open; firm, earthy, complex and satin textured. Good length, too. Funny; I loved this wine on release and since then, not so much. But I have the feeling it’s getting there, gradually. 1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Murto Reserve: This has always had a lovely nose – cherries, flint, underbrush, a touch of spice; well integrated in the mouth and the texture of silk, great pinot flavors that mimic the nose, good concentration, acidity and depth; better than average length. This is coming into its own and was ideal with salmon. 1996 Chateau Lynch Bages: In its early days, it was very Napa in style; it has crossed the ocean and is now quintessential Bordeaux; earth-driven on the with cassis, pencil shavings and stone elements; much the same on the palate as the sweet fruit flavors have receded and now are simply an element of the profile, good concentration, developing complexity, considerable tannin, nice balance and substantial length. The development of this wine has been a joy to experience; and certainly, the change has been dramatic. Still pretty young by Bordeaux standards. Superb with cheese. Best, Jim

Sometimes, you just have to say, “what the . . .” 2000 J.P. Droin, Chablis, Les Clos: Youthful but sumptuous; character driven with superb concentration and intensity, slightly closed, precise balance, not the slightest hint of oak and unbelievable length. Drink it tonight, taste it tomorrow . . . night. I don’t recall ever being this impressed with any wine’s length. A dazzling, albeit young, bottle of Chablis and amplifies grilled mahi mahi with lemon-caper sauce. 1999 Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles: Another wow wine; full, expansive aromatics, earthy/mineral/oh so Gevrey; powerful fruit, immense concentration without an extractive feel, old vine sap, depth, purity, focus, complexity and again, endless, balanced length. Burgundy, without question, and as concentrated as any Grand Cru. Has lost its baby fat and is now a laser-like wine with etched flavors and sinuous textures. Very fine with aged cheeses. Best, Jim

1995 Vincent Arroyo, Petite Sirah: There isn’t much fruit on the nose, rather elements of scorched earth, hickory smoke, asphalt, flowers and a very deep, dark-spice note; in the mouth its blackberry soda with accents from the nose, very grippy and just a little watery; moderate length, mouth-coating but pretty drying. Here is one of those rarities – the oak has “integrated.” But it also has altered the basic make-up of the wine and diminished the fruit. Nothing complex here (unless you count the number of different charred-wood manifestations) and although it’s not a bad wine, it says nothing about petite sirah and gives little reason to want more. And once again, I am persuaded that there is simply no reason to cellar petite sirah; either I like it on release or I shouldn’t buy it because it’s not going to change for the better. Best, Jim

2001 Copian, Pinot Noir Dennison Vineyard: Shy aromatics that expand somewhat with air; cranberry and milk chocolate on the palate with some minerality and a touch of spice; easy textures, solid acidity and good intensity but not showing any development; medium finish. The 1999 of this bottling may have been the most impressive wine from Mendocino I have tasted but this comes up short – maybe that’s why Wells decided not to take the fruit after 2001. 2003 Edmunds St. John, Redneck 101: All Eagle Point Ranch fruit and 14.6% abv; not for the faint of heart – big-assed aromas of jam with some southern Rhône-type accents; jam in the mouth, too, and a mouth feel more akin to Jack and coke than table wine; intense, concentrated, very powerful and pretty good length. Too much size, jam and booze for me but this is not without its attractions – it shows no wood, never goes over into a milk-shake texture and even has some complexity. Best, Jim

2005 Baudry, Chinon La Croix Boissée: When I was in CA last, I tasted a Napa cabernet franc that really tasted like good Chinon – but then, there is good and there is . . .; this is fantastic Chinon – the nose is expansive, penetrating and all encompassing – tobacco, seasoned plum compote, Baker’s chocolate; rich but firm in the mouth, super fine tannins that are ripe but not sweet, classic black fruit, some mineral – this seems to morph as it slides across the tongue – worsted texture, precise balance; endless, nuanced length. Much as I loved that well-made CA cab. franc there is no substitute for the real thing; this wine is spherical but also expansive in a way that lets me know that this variety can produce world class wines of extraordinary potency. Its possible that this will live a very long time – but right now, it’s a reminder that glory and greatness exist in the world –concepts that seems to be in short supply. Best, Jim

2000 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Estate Reserve: A wine I have not much cared for in the past; quite different this evening with the beginnings of bottle bouquet; a fairly straight-forward nose; a very complete and pretty profile in the mouth with attractive balance and good intensity, darkly fruited; long, tangy finish. So much better than its early years it’s hard to believe it’s the same wine. This has a life ahead of it but it has entered a very attractive phase. 1999 Chevillon, Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains: Plums, flowers, mineral water and cured meat on the nose; much the same on the palate with some cherry and earthy accents added, evident structure and a meaty, mouth-coating texture, remarkable concentration and intensity; stunning length. Becomes more and more integrated as it sits in the glass. This could be ponderous if it wasn’t for the brightness and savory/earthy character of the flavors – two bottles of flavor in one bottle of wine. “And miles to go before it sleeps . . .” 2000 Raveneau, Chablis Butteaux: From a bottle opened two nights ago and then stoppered and put in the fridge; not as big and inaccessible as when we put it in the fridge but not especially generous; as Diane says “a nice white wine;” some Chablis character, no oak or butter, good density but all-in-all, rather forgettable. Raveneau is sort of like gambling – sometimes they are winners beyond words, often not. 2000 Chateau Cantelys, Pessac-Léognan: Unmistakably Bordeaux on the nose; likewise in the mouth with a beautiful earthy note amid ripe but restrained cabernet (blend) fruit, structured, elegant, complex and perfectly balanced; good length; 13% alcohol and maybe my favorite cabernet based wine this year. Smoothes with air and takes on greater dimension. $20, on release. Best, Jim

N/V Mayr-Nusserhof, Blaterle: Very charming; kind of light and floral with some soap accents and a pleasant finish. Nothing to go crazy over but delightful for starters. 2006 Overnoy, Arbois-Pupillin: Terrific poulsard with a translucent appearance, light-weight but intense delivery, lots of complexity and 13% alcohol. Maybe the ripest one I’ve had from this producer (which still puts it a step behind Puffeney’s). Really good. 2000 Boxler, Riesling Brand: The real deal. Powerful aromatics and flavors; depth, complexity and class with a very long, full flavored finish. Captivating wine and the one I made sure that I kept a glass of for later. 2002 Nigl, Grüner Veltliner Piri: Nice veltliner but after the preceding wine, a shadow. Maybe on another day this would impress . . . others were happier with it. 2005 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie: Within a whisker of the ’05 Vissoux, Poncie which I have written up maybe 20 times since release; my favorite wine that presently resides in my cellar. This is only short by a degree of concentration; otherwise, this is fabulous Fleurie, gorgeous gamay and wonderful wine. What a vintage in Fleurie! 2000 Raveneau, Chablis Butteaux: Big and fairly closed – we closured it and put it in the fridge for another time. 1996 Allemand, Cornas Reynard: All the Cornas markers, good integration and balance and then, it drops off a cliff. Nothing there at all from mid-palate on. Sort of watery and, well weird. Best, Jim

The sky is falling, the Brooklyn bridge is for sale and your three minutes is up. Please, this is a way to make money, not great wine. Best, Jim

1999 Nigl, Sauvignon Blanc: Good wine with depth and character but not my style; too much of that cat pee/grassy/perm solution element. The goat cheese with crackers helped but not enough. 2000 Thomas, Pinot Noir: Diane made a mushroom, chicken and vegetable concoction that went beautifully with this wine; its nose is blackberry and cola; in the mouth it has strong flavors but light weight and easy textures – a tenuous but attractive balance – it cuts the food with its acidity and flavors but never intrudes or overwhelms. 13% alcohol, thankfully. When I think of the domestic producers of pinot noir that I consider in tune with their land and meticulous about their process, John Thomas leads the list. A terrific wine that has years to peak but shows very well today. 1995 Montus, Madiran Cuvée Prestige: Smells like new tires and cherries; its all fruit and earth in the mouth with good grip and plenty of concentration and heft; a somewhat drying but very long finish. Expecting an avalanche of tannin, instead I got a masculine, thoroughly enjoyable bottle with pretty good balance and complexity. Not something I want a lot of but twice the wine with pasta and red sauce. Best, Jim

Diane made a whole roast chicken, risotto with porcini and chanterelles, and, caramelized butternut squash (fresh from our garden) and I wanted a wine that sang. 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Moulin à Vent Les Deux Roches: “The two rocks,” eh? Corked (I have a lot to say about this but I will hold my tongue, except to say, what a waste). so, 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie: Closed with a cork, which gave me pause – but this wine was sound. Actually, its well beyond sound; it is glorious and testament to a great terroir and the careful hand of M. Chermette; dark fruit, talc, stones and spice on the nose – so quintessentially Fleurie that it would be hard to guess otherwise; perfectly balanced in the mouth with ripe black fruit flavors and all sorts of enticing accents, slightly brooding, rich yet texturally silken, wonderful concentration, great acidity and a long, detailed finish. With the meal, sublime. There will be nights when I dine alone in a motel room on “what’s available” and I will dream of nights like these. Oh my! Best, Jim

1995 La Jota, Petite Sirah: At 13, this tastes pretty much as it did at 2; good grip, some nice spice notes, solid fruit and all in a relatively simple package that has changed little since it was bottled. Perhaps, it is a bit less bright, a touch drier and a trifle more integrated – none of which is sufficient reason to cellar this bottle so long. Good with burgers but I’d not buy it again. 2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Dom. Pierre de la Grange: Smells like spring water and unripe pineapple; crisp but full flavored, focused yet nuanced, carries considerable body and is, oh so long in the mouth. 12% alcohol, less than $10 and world class. A joy to drink and the essence of freshness. Tomato and ricotta salata salad went well. 2003 Radikon, Ribolla Gialla (500ml): Diane told me we were having sausages with white beans and spinach – it’s a somewhat soupy concoction with some fairly angular flavors – and some good crusty olive bread, so I decided to pull this bottle. Try as I might, I can not describe the smells and flavors of this wine with any degree of accuracy. But it is tannic (rather unusual for a white wine), full flavored, tastes as though someone had laced it with the essence of mineral water, is ever so slightly sherried and is absolutely captivating. For some reason, it makes me feel like I lived centuries ago and was having a flagon of wine with my medieval banquet. Suffice to say that this is not for everyone, that its complexity is infinite, and that I’d gladly trade my Riedel for a chalice. I love this stuff. Best, Jim

2006 Do Ferrreiro, Rebisaca: 75% albariño, 25% treixadura, fermented in stainless and aged 7 mos. on the lees; for those of you who sail, this is the motor-sailer of the boating world – has parts of both motorboat and sailboat and does neither justice; that said, its crisp, clean, pleasant and would be a great accompaniment to shell fish. But it doesn’t work for me as I like both grapes just not in the same bottle; I’ll stick with the straight version of either grape and use it accordingly. 1999 Dom. de Courcel, Pommard Grand Clos des Épenots: A meaty, smoky, tannic wine but with enough fruit to carry the phenolics; smells like Sonoma Coast pinot but tastes more like Burgundy, more dirt driven in the mouth and with sufficient intensity and promise to make me think several years are needed – but a peculiar showing and one that makes me think I should revisit some of the domestic pinots I haven’t tried in years – those without all the sweet fruit and so much alcohol. 2001 Sella, Lessona: The fine folks at Astor in NYC put this on sale for $17 and I bought a box – Asimov should put this one on his ‘best values from Italy’ list. Clean, nuanced nebbiolo smells and flavors; an elegant, dry presentation and that attractive earthy profile that this producer seems to capture regularly. A wine that was made to accompany your dinner – not for cocktails nor starters nor any other purpose – and it fits that role as well any bottle could. Very good and ready now, although there is no rush. 2000 Huet, Vouvray Demi-sec Clos du Bourg: Light golden color; a nose of cake-icing, flint, apples and hay – interesting; still a little sweet for me but some of the sugary quality has dissipated, flavors that echo the nose, good intensity and a long, mouthwatering finish. Not much sense of place but this is a young, unformed wine that appears to be moving in the right direction and has plenty of stuffing and good balance, so I suspect it will continue to improve with cellaring. Hold. 1999 Cristom, Pinot Noir Marjorie Vnyd.: Youthful in its grip and intensity and yet, there is a developed depth here - strong black cherry smells and flavors with lifted ever so slightly vegetal accents and nuances in the brown spice range; cinnamon, clove, star anise, etc. – not as complex as some aged pinots and more masculine than some but also quite well balanced with a presence that isn’t all that common. Very Oregon and it has lots of life left – but one could do worse than enjoying it now. Best, Jim

2004 Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana: At its best, with well resolved tannins, a satin mouth feel and ripe nerello mascalese flavors that seem to suggest their volcanic soil origins. My last bottle of a case; I have enjoyed every one of them while witnessing the wine’s development. Well-made, balanced and avoids the tendency toward too much alcohol of this variety. 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncié: Open several days, recorked and left on the counter; pure, ripe, unmistakably Fleurie with good structure, ample fruit and some very nice nuances. A wonderful bottle and likely, the wine I most enjoy of all those in my cellar. 2005 Kongsgaard, Chardonnay The Judge: The following is paraphrased from the website: This is grown on a rocky hillside just east of the town of Napa, which was acquired by John’s grandparents in the 1920’s as a potential quarry site. The extremely rocky ground produces a miniscule crop of around one ton per acre, yielding less than one-half bottle of wine per vine. Fermented in all new, French oak barrels with the indigenous yeast and bacteria requiring six to twelve months to finish the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations. Resting on the primary lees for fifteen months before the first racking, the wine is clarified by gravity. This allows bottling without filtration or fining after nearly two years of barrel age. The wine is named after John's late father who was the judge in Napa County from 1959 to 1985. Reading the above description doesn’t make me want to taste the wine. However, I had the chance to do so, on two different occasions, while visiting friends on the leftcoast; turns out, the wine is remarkable. Most striking is the degree and depth of the mineral character in the wine. In my experience, only great Chablis have this broad vein of minerality. There is a very gentle oak note in the nose and the slightest buttery element on the palate. The rest is all concentrated, focused and bright chardonnay fruit that would put many a Montrachet to shame. And my guess is that this will develop with cellaring. Stupidly priced but then, so is Montrachet. 1991 Montelena, Cabernet Sauvignon: Clear and pure but lacking depth and showing a distinct, although not unattractive, herbaceous edge. An understated wine and, IMO, somewhat under-fruited. Other bottles have shown better. 1999 Chave, Hermitage: Touch of brett on the nose; fine aromatics but not expansive; better in the mouth with silken textures and plenty of complexity, not especially concentrated; moderate length. More resolved than I’d have expected and not showing the power that great Hermitage can possess. Odd, but not unpleasant. Best, Jim

I’m gone to CA tomorrow; a few notes to post before I go: 1996 Jadot, Clos St. Denis: Luden’s cough drops and dirt on the nose with considerable bottle bouquet, fairly tight; linen texture in the mouth with dark cherries and earth tones, slightly more giving than the nose, intense, very fine but noticeable tannins; moderate length, slightly drying. Nothing here indicates grand cru, yet. 2002 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie: A bit muddy on both the nose and palate and not much sense of place either. Not a bad wine, just not drinking now. 1999 Jaboulet, Cornas: Funky smells and flavors at first but this rounds into a complex, earth driven wine with some syrah markers and a good dose of Cornas terroir. Better than expected considering a bottle two years ago was mediocre. 2000 V. Dauvissat, Les Clos: Chablis does not get much better, even though this was showing young. Very full flavored with lemon drop, citrus peel, stone and fresh water scents and flavors, real depth and intensity, excellent concentration and great acidity – as I said, none much better. I’ll hold the rest of mine until at least 2012. 2002 Taluau, St.-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil VV: Tobacco leaf, cherry-cranberry and some mineral notes – the vegetative elements of the nose do not go over into green bell pepper; medium weight, a little grit in the texture at first but it smoothes, bright fruit, intense but not especially concentrated; medium finish. Nice wine with sausages, white beans and cabbage but probably needs a couple years to resolve. No doubt its Loire cab franc. 2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Excelsior – Terroir de Schistes: Just beautiful; terrific aromatics and a bright but viscous palate with all sorts of complexity, citrus, white pepper, lemon curd – I could go on . . . but suffice to say, lovely, lovely wine. 2005 Mondavi, Cabernet Sauvignon: Oak drek. It isn’t just the matter of an oak smell or flavor, it’s the way the wood insinuates itself into every fiber of smell and flavor, each to become soured and tainted so as to be indistinguishable from a damaged wine. I suspect this was at least decent juice to start with but the barrel treatment assures that it never will be again. 2005 Dom. Chignard, Fleurie Les Moriers: The glorious breath of Bacchus after the preceding wine; pure, almost haunting aromas of talc, wild strawberry and mineral – so utterly captivating; focused, medium weight wine with flavors that follow the nose with nuance, bright and intense; long finish with just a hint of structure showing. The impression I get is that this is only a glimpse of coming attractions but such a perfectly orchestrated one that one can’t help but be entranced. Very Fleurie. Just as good on day two. 2006 Do Ferreiro, Albariño Cepas Vellas: Has shed its initial baby fat softness and is now crisp, deep, spicy (almost a ginger note), strongly flavored and very long. As good an albariño as I have ever had. Truly a memorable wine. 2004 Dom. Pepière, Muscadet Clos des Briords: Like mountain spring water; cool, crisp, fresh, charming. Still quite primary but equally, delicious. 2004 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois Pupillin: Some sulpher, sweat and funk on the nose with pomegranate, moist earth and truffle tones; very complex in the mouth and hard to describe, light weight but intense, with a series of textures on the palate seemingly dependent upon how much you have swallowed. An odd yet fascinating wine and not to everyone’s taste. Made of poulsard. 2005 D’Angerville, Bourgogne: Sappy, forward pinot with firmness, depth and clarity; worthy of premier cru status, at least. All the fruit of the vintage and all the structure of D’Angerville. Worth every penny of the $30 paid. N/V Larmandier-Bernier, Blanc de Blanc Champagne: Maybe a touch sweet but otherwise a flavorful, starter wine witn a good bead and a nice finish. 2007 Scholium Project, Naucratis: Verdjo done to the nth degree; a bit too sweet on the attack for me but strongly flavored and very pretty wine that matches well with a squash/corn soup. 1998 G. Conterno, Barolo: Smells and feels more like pinot than nebbiolo; lightweight, floral, anise; feminine to a degree I did not expect. 2002 Huet, Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont: Much less sweet than on release (how does that happen?), well supported with acidity, and very nice with a goat cheese and fig paste desert. Good wine that could use more time but was completely acceptable now. Best, Jim

I don't have enough experience with 2002 northern Rhones to say. But Allemand seems to be able to make good wine in bad vintages, a fact that is of some note. Best, Jim

2005 Castro, Dão Quinta da Pellada: I don’t know the make-up of this wine but, if I were guessing, I’d say it included some of the port grapes; 13% alcohol; stains the glass purple-red; very enticing aromas of earth and dark fruit with a bloody meat note; extremely concentrated on the palate with smoke, meat, earth and fruit flavors that expand in the mouth and are intense and lasting; long, flavor-filled finish. Exceptional wine with lovely balance and all the intensity one could ask for. Unbelievably good with homemade mac and cheese. Could use time in the cellar but is good now. 1994 Laurel Glen, Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain: This producer can make brett-bombs – it can also make really fine wine; this bottle is one of the latter; a very slight touch of brett accents black currants and some red fruit, even a little mineral thrown in; much the same in the mouth with excellent balance, good grip and a composed texture; a bit drying on the finish but its also juicy and long. Not a lot of bottle-bouquet and still some unresolved tannin, but this is quite attractive, reasonably complex and delicious with pizza. Drink or hold. 2002 Allemand, Cornas: This wine is a good lesson in syrah and domestic producers should be listening; profound? Nope. Good? Yes, indeed. So they knocked the price down about 50% which, when you have the wine, makes you think that maybe they went low. Really good aromatics with both Cornas character and syrah markers; medium bodied and medium length – in between is an appealing, earth-driven, syrah based wine that fits easily into your pinot glass but satisfies as though it were from your Hermitage glass. I like it. And, I think it will last. But if you’re looking for a tour de force or blockbuster; well, maybe not here. Dinner this evening: Fresh tomato, mozzarella, basil and olive oil salad: 2006 Chat. Grande Cassagne, Rosé Costières de Nîmes: Starting to fall apart and letting a bit of alcohol show; iced it was fine and pretty nice with the dish. Drink now and serve very cold. With stir-fry including a freshly picked cayenne pepper from our garden: 2001 Egon Müller, Riesling Kabinett Scharzhofberger: The nose is light cream, well-water and Rainer cherry with an diesel/acetone note – very fresh and very young; the same elements on the palate with strong flint and some sour watermelon accents, huge acidity that carries the flavors through to the finish which is long and mouth-watering. Very little discernable sweetness but it soothes the cayenne heat nicely. So very young and unformed but showing great promise and real class. Hold at least 10 years. 8.5% alcohol and AP #142-3-02. Brilliant wine. Best, Jim

1998 Chat. Couhins-Lurton, Pessac-Léognan (Blanc): Good wine, over-oaked. Brassy color; good sauvignon blanc smells (this is 100% sauvignon) but too much butterscotch and sawed lumber; even worse in the mouth where the wine becomes attenuated by the wood flavors and effects. That any sauvignon lasts 10 years is interesting – why the winemaker decided it had to be so woody is beyond me. 2005 Chanrion, Côte-de-Brouilly: Strawberry, lady’s face powder and tonic water smells; beautiful in the mouth with dense fruit flavors, accenting minerality, a lightweight delivery and a silky texture; medium length, very clean finish. Drinking very well today and absolutely delicious. Yum! 2005 Dom. Pepiere, Muscadet Granite de Clisson (magnum): Served to eight tasters; special wine that pleases even the most novice taster. Clean, deep and long. Fabulous. N/V Marquis de Monastrol, Cava Reserva: Lovely bead, very clean scents and flavors, bone-dry and low alcohol. Perfect starter or, as we did, with tomato and mozzarella salad. 2005 de Villaine, Bourgogne La Digoine: Corked. Still tasted pretty good but the smell . . . 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie: More typical of the vineyard and producer than first bottles that were loaded with baby-fat; this is very Feurie and delicious with food. 2005 Terres Dorees, Fleurie: A baby – a yummy wine but requies several years to round out. Terrific wine. 2006 Alesia, Pinot Noir Sam Mateo Cnty.: Evidence of some whole-cluster fermentation and very sweet fruit; not my favorite but our guests loved it – to the point they drank it instead of many of the Beaujolais. I think this needs a couple years to integrate fully but our guests wanted more – my only bottle. Thanks, Kevin. Best, Jim