Florida Jim

With smoked salmon spread and crackers: 2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées: About as pretty and soulful as wine can be; lots of cut, smooth texture, deep flavors and good sustain. I can see this getting even better with time in the cellar but its glorious now. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $7 on sale; worth three times the price. With ginger marinated bok choy and mushrooms on rice noodles: 2005 Dom. des Roches Neuves, Samur l’Insolite: Thierry Germain is usually too heavy-handed with the barrel regimen for me, but this 100% chenin blanc is charming, ripe, compact and straightforward with no evidence of wood. Excellent with the dish. 13% alcohol, imported by Jon-David Headrick and about $26; a little steep for me but good wine. With assorted cheeses: 2001 Jorge Moreira, Poeira: Rich full bodied, gently oaky and smooth; made from port grapes but unfortified its good accompaniment to the cheeses. 13% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $30, on sale; this too is a bit steep for me. Best, Jim

Yeah, those are pretty poor. I use a Riedel chard. glass and am perfectly happy. No CO2 blast up the nose during sniffage and I seem to burp less. Weird, but I'll go with whatever works. Best, Jim

2005 André et Michel Quenard, Chignin: The jacquère grape is fast becoming my ‘go to’ white grape for vin blanc and this lovely Vin de Savoie is a charming example of why; clear, clean scents of white fruit, alpine fields and stones are inviting; the palate echoes that profile in a medium weight, smoothly textured yet bright and tangy delivery; medium length finish. A pleasure to drink, with or without food. 11% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $13; I’ll buy more this evening. 2002 Barthod, Bourgogne Les Bons Bâtons: This has picked up weight since release and is more open, textured and appealing; lots of red and black fruit flavors with hints of spice and earth; medium weight, smooth but still focused; long, balanced finish. Delicious with grilled chicken and also, by itself. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $22 on release; I’d buy more at that price. 2004 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: Served with sliced tomatoes, mozzarella and pesto salad, this was stony and full of fruit, lacked any RS (which I thought I found in the last bottle) and matched the dish pretty well. I think I’d prefer a Muscadet or some such, but not a bad pairing. 13% alcohol, imported by Palm Bay Imports and about $17; I’d buy it again. 2005 Dom. Diochon, Moulin-à-Vent VV: While this is good, young Beaujolais it does not raise to the level of the Vissoux, MaV; its 13% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $17. And while I would buy it again, if I can have the Vissoux, MaV for $22, I’ll spend the extra $5, every time. Served along side pasta with veggies and chicken, this was delicious, albeit atypical of its terroir. 2005 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie Cuvée Tardive: Not giving much indication of Fleurie at the moment and pretty heavily weighted toward structure, particularly on the back end; this wine needs cellar time to resolve the tannins and let the very concentrated fruit unwind. While I think it a good wine and one I would be pleased to be served anytime, I think that several other Fleurie’s from this vintage are performing better today. 13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $21; I bought plenty. A New Year’s Eve dinner with friends: Crackers and cheese: N/V Nino Franco, Proseco Rustico: Smells sweet but is bone dry, solid flavors, energetic bead, 11% alcohol, clean finish. What more could one want for $12? Imported by Vin Davino, this is my favorite bubbly these days. (BTW, does anyone else prefer their bubbly in a regular wine glass as opposed to a flute? I do.) Pasta with veggies: 2004 Dom. Huards, Cheveny Le Pressoir: Lightweight, stony flavors from this pinot/gamay (80/20) blend; charming wine with enough earthiness to stand with food yet good by itself, especially with a light chill. 12% alcohol, imported by Jon-David Headrick and about $15; I’d buy it again. Grilled wild salmon with goat cheese sautéed Portobello’s: 2001 Wetzel Estate, Pinot Noir Single Cluster: Earthy, quite complex and rich with fabulous acidity, this Dallas, Oregon producer (Chateau Bianca; evidently Wetzel is the family name) has really out done themselves here; single cluster refers to pruning to one cluster per shoot and this wine shows the kind of concentration one would expect from such practice. The palate is multi-layered and detailed, and the finish has a hot chili edge to it that provides cut with food and keeps the flavors alive a long time. Sensational with the dish. My first taste from these folks; a very fine beginning. 13.5% alcohol and price unknown; thanks Fitz. (Oddly, the vintage appears no where on the label; I got it from the website.) With assorted cheeses: 1989 Lynch Bages: At a pretty stage in its very long life; not at peak but certainly supple, showy, flavorful, complex and long; has shed all its baby fat and is humming along nicely in its adolescence. 12% alcohol (ah, the good old days), imported by Costello Imports and about $40, on release; I’d buy it again at that price. Best, Jim

2004 Correggia, Roero Arneis: Expansive smells; tangy, viscous, bright flavors of herb and white fruit with a tang that suits it for food; and, good length. This was served with pasta that had olives, sautéed onions, roasted brussel sprouts and fennel mixed in, and it sung. A delicious wine for use with dishes many other wines are not; like grüner veltliner or Greco de tufo, for instance. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Marc de Grazia and $7 on sale; I’d buy it again. 2004 Tenta delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana: From 40-50 year old vines, some pre-phylloxera, of nerello mascalese in volcanic soil; a wine that reminds me of pinot noir; it is deceptive, starting out rather simple and disjointed, perhaps a trifle sweet, this comes together slowly in the glass and the structure shows only after several hours; at last, it is very aromatic and earthy while retaining elegant, cherry fruit and remarkable complexity. I’d say this needs five or so years in the cellar. 14% alcohol, imported by Michael Skurnik and about $20; I’d buy it again. 2002 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois Pupillin: “And now for something completely different . . .,” and this poulsard from the Jura is not for everyone; orange-red in color, translucent, aromatics like sun-baked woodlands, red fruit and incense, quite complex; the same across the palate with an overall impression of a medium-weight, stony, fruit juice that is bone-dry. The earthy character of this wine is not subtle and is surely it’s most interesting and intricate component; juice that reminds me that there is a broad spectrum of variety in the world of wine and that a very few are utterly authentic. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $22; I bought a lot. (Aside: my wife seldom says anything about any wine; usually it’s just ‘okay or no thanks.’ I know she feels as though she does not have the experience or the descriptors to accurately communicate her impressions. She went on about this using superlatives she never has before and indicating her fascination in clear terms. That alone is enough for me to buy more. That and the fact that I love it, too.) Best, Jim

2005 Domaine des Huards, Cheverny Le Pressoir: Biodynamic, 12% alcohol, 80% pinot noir and 20% gamay; sort of the passetoutgrains of the Loire, I suppose, this is aromatic with bright red fruit and earthy scents; sappy, clean, slightly savory, wine-bar type wine with light structure, good acidity, charming balance and a longer than expected finish. Came together quite nicely in the glass so I think 6 months or so in the cellar would help. Delicious accompanying pasta with zucchini in light cream sauce. Imported by Jon-David Headrick Selections and about $10; I’ll buy it again. 2004 Las Rocas, Rosado: Strawberry, raspberry, earthy nose; dry, balanced, juicy palate with flavors that follow the nose and a clean, medium length finish. Nothing to write home about but perfectly acceptable rosé that pleases me. 13.5% alcohol; imported by Eric Solomon and about $3 (yeah, $3). I bought a case and will buy another. Christmas dinner of turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy, dressing, corn casserole, green beans, carrot casserole, roasted brussel sprouts and a dessert of homemade truffles: N/V Colet, Cava A Priori: Tastes so much like blanc de blanc Champagne that no one could tell it was Cava; bright, juicy, yeasty; ‘sparkling’ is more than an apt descriptor. 11.5% alcohol, imported by Vinos and Gourmet and about $17; I’d by it again. 2005 Dom. du Clos du Fief (Tete) Juliénas: I wish I could buy this by the barrel; beautiful, black fruit wine with depth, balance, a supple texture and miles of finish. M. Tete is my hero! 13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $18; I bought a bunch. 2004 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: In view of the Barolo and Barbaresco this house makes, I guess this should be called a ‘minor’ miracle; fresh, authentic, food friendly nebbiolo with soul, good length and a shelf life. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Locascio and about $24; I am buying more each time I go to the store. Best, Jim

Dinner with friends First: Boiled shrimp with aioli. 2004 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: Lovely Soave; floral nose with some cooked fruit scents and a touch of tonic water; flavors echo the nose, just a hint of RS in a texturally fat mouth feel, great acidity and balance, medium length finish. Shows young and stuffed yet went really well with the dish. Imported by Palm Bay Imports and about $17; I bought a case. Second: Roasted monkfish with pesto; vegetable broth risotto; and, green beans with pine nuts. 2002 Baumard, Savenniéres: Lovely, dry chenin with good depth, flesh and sustain. And stellar with the course matching each of its elements. A pairing to remember. Imported by Ex Cellars Agency and about $20; I bought a case. Third: Assorted cheese and crackers. 2005 Domaine du Vissoux, Beaujolais Cuvée Traditionelle VV: A rich, dark fruit driven gamay with depth, clarity, structure and length. Wonderful now; better in a couple years. Good with the cheese or by itself. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $14; I bought a case and need to buy another. Best, Jim

1993 Sullivan, Merlot: Tannic, candied oak juice with VA. Tried on successive nights. Garbage. About $45 on release; DNPIM. 2005 Domaine Chignard, Fleurie Les Moriers: Beautiful, authentic Fleurie. Tried on successive nights and its smoother, rounder and more complete on day two. Stunning, stunning juice. Imported by Kermit Lynch and about $21; I bought a lot. 2002 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie: Hard and miserly on day one but still black fruit tasty. On day two, a strongly flavored, tannic wine that leans toward Fleurie aromas and flavors but gives more than a passing glance to Corton. Interesting, if atypical wine that I will enjoy following for the many years it has left in the cellar. Imported by Louis/Dressner and about $15 on release; I’d certainly buy it again. 2005 Drouhin, Bourgogne Laforet: Thin Burgundy under screw top; nothing bad about it but nothing to get excited about. Imported by Dreyfus and Ashby and about $10; I won’t buy it again. And yet . . . On day three, this gained weight and viscosity and was really very enjoyable. ‘Never a world record but not bad at all. Judgment reservesd. 2002 Dom. les Fines Graves (Janodet) Moulin à Vent: Oxidized; the first bottle from the case that has had a problem. All the others have been just fine. 2005 Cavalchina, Bardolina: Plummy, light-weight wine with some structure and lots of up-front fruit. Yummy with pasta with veggies. Imported by Vin Divino, 12.5% alcohol and about $12; I’d buy it again. 2003 Dom. Ogereau, Anjou Villages: If you want to try Dalla Valle, Maya, for about $16, this is the wine for you. But if you want Anjou, this is crap. Its 14.5% alcohol, huge, tannic but, thankfully, not over oaked; a milk-shake of a wine with all sorts of umph and gusto and power and . . . there is just nothing here that is remotely authentic. Some druggie’s rendition of Anjou. Imported by Jon-David Headrick and about $16; no way I’d ever touch this stuff again. Best, Jim

First: Pecan crackers with Oveja cheese (sheep’s milk): 2005 Jean-Pierre et Jean-François, Chignin Anne de la Biguerne: Vin de Savoie at 12% alcohol; cooked pineapple, flowers and tonic water nose that gives the impression its surrounded by fresh air; the same flavors in the mouth with a pleasant tang, fine concentration, lovely balance and good cut; long, fresh finish. An excellent pairing. Imported by Charles Neal Selection and about $10; maybe the best $10 bottle of wine I ever had. Second: Pasta with grilled and lightly smoked onions, chopped assorted olives, EVOO and shaved parmesan: 2002 Allemand, Cornas: The first two bottles of this I had were not inspiring - this one was terrific; lightly smoky on the nose with a complex, olive, dark fruit and meat tone profile; harmonious and grippy in the mouth with flavors that follow and expand upon the nose, good flesh, nice balance and length. My impression is more Chaillot then Reynard and even if this isn’t for long term aging, what a joy to have a 12.5%, authentic Cornas, ready now. Another excellent pairing. Imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $35; I’d buy it again. Third: A cake made of only pressed figs and nuts and slices of Etorki cheese (another sheep’s milk): 2001 Zenato, Amarone (375 ml): While I applaud the format, this was rather unremarkable Amarone; not oxidized or out of balance it had relatively pleasant milk chocolate and fruit cake spice tones mixed with solid black and red fruit, 16% alcohol, texturally smooth, balanced and fair length. Not much “there” there but still a decent pairing. Imported by Locascio and about $25; I’ll not buy it again. Best, Jim

My daughter graduated from law school today. As alum of the school, I was invited to present her with her diploma. I am, as I have always been, immensely proud of her. So we had a little party: 1995 Clos de la Coulée de Serant, Savennières Moelleux: Made only twice and then in very small quantities this is 14% alcohol, burnished copper colored chenin blanc; smelling of stones and cooked sugar; tasting like lightly sweetened, very concentrated quince paste and displaying a texture of satin, this is extraordinary juice; acidic with good cut across the entire palate and finish, a depth of flavor that runs a subtle range of flavors that are almost impossible to describe, and, precise balance that at once makes me feel that this is bigger wine than it really is and still makes my mouth water on the finish. Aside from its scarcity, a pretty remarkable bottle. Enjoyed with sushi with wasabi dipping sauce, this was great counter-point. With sheep’s-milk cheese after, very smooth accompaniment. Imported by Paterno Imports and about $60 on release; there is so little of it made that I will never find it again – if I did, I’d buy all I could carry. Thanks Mark. 2002 V. Dauvissat, Chablis: Closed in the first hour and not especially pleasant; thereafter, quintessential Chablis with that lemon-drop, high tension brightness, good depth and plenty of sustain. Damn good wine that needs a couple years. Imported by Vineyard Brands and about $25; if I could find more at that price, I’d buy alot. 2005 Giacosa, Dolcetto d’Alba: Fruity, relatively complex wine that is true to its variety and place and displays more than the typical dolcetto. Still, docetto is simply not my thing – too much fruit (I know, that sounds odd but that’s about the best I can do.) Imported by Loscascio and about $17; I’ll not buy it again. 2005 Dom. du Clos du Fief (Michel Tete), Juliénas: Deep, silken textured juice that is at once bright and broad, delineated and integrated, fat and full of cut and very, very long. As good as the appellation produces in a vintage to remember. Imported by Louis/Dressner and about $18; I have already bought a case and will go back for more. 2004 Giacosa, Barbera d’Alba: I tasted this recently and can truthfully say it’s the only barbera I ever liked. I had to try it again and it was every bit as good this time as last. I think this could use a couple years in the cellar to be ‘at peak’ but it is quite delicious now. Imported by Locascio and about $24 (I may have quoted a lower price in my first note – I was wrong); I will buy this in quantity. 2001 Edmunds St. John, Los Robles Viejos: A CdP blend from Paso; at first, both the nose and palate are a bit hard but everything opens up over the course of a meal to reveal the very best in these kind of blends; great flavors and aromas, supple textures, lots of complexity, a fine, long finish and, perhaps its greatest attribute, a simply fabulous food wine. Good now, better later. About $25 and I bought a bunch. Best, Jim

I have not found the Beaujolais you speak of. But the Tradionnelle tasted pretty good to me out of the chute. Maybe I should decant a bottle this morning for tonight and see if you've discovered something even better. BTW, this cuvee usually takes cellaring short term pretty well; I see no reason the 2005 wouldn't follow suit. Best, Jim

2004 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: Garganega from a hillside vineyard in Soave at 13% alcohol; honeyed pear on the nose with mineral and rushing water accents; tangy on the palate with bright flavors that echo the nose, ripe almost fat, complex, juicy and perfect balance; medium finish that is crisp and crystal clear. If I could find 375’s of this, I’d buy them all, because if we open a 750, I won’t stop ‘til it’s empty. Soulful, life-affirming wine imported by Palm Bay Imports and about $16; I bought a lot. 2004 Zind-Humbrecht, Riesling: A pungent pineapple, lime skin and mineral nose leads to a tangy, strongly flavored palate with viscosity, concentration, some cooked flavors and good balance; short finish; 12% alcohol. With food the tang moderates and the finish lengthens. I like this but in small doses; it will never replace Trimbach’s entry level riesling. Imported by Kermit Lynch and about $17; no more for me, thanks. 2001 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: A blast of dark chocolate when first opened morphs to earth, asphalt, dark cherries and a hint of truffle, a pretty arresting nose; silky on the palate with flavors and complexity that follow and expand upon the nose, good grip, bright acidity and moderate concentration, all in an integrated yet delineated delivery; long finish. I have tasted a whole lot of Barbaresco that can’t touch this. Imported by Locascio and about $20 on release; I’d buy it again. Best, Jim

The following are my notes on some of the 2005 Beaujolais cru wines that are available in the market now. Each was tasted over the course of an evening, with food and not against each other. Overall, I’d say this vintage is a lot like the 1999 vintage on the Côte d’Or, that is, lots of fruit with good structure and good potential for the cellar. Wines that drink pretty well on release and, if I had to guess, will never close down completely. In other words, a vintage I like. Domaine du Vissoux (Chermette)|, Cuvée Traditionnelle VV, carries only a ‘Beaujolais’ appellation but it is beautiful beyond mere words with wonderful, fresh gamay and earth scents; a harmonious palate with nuance and structure and a long finish. Feminine but still assertive; a wine for our time and for all time. About $14; stealing at that price. Morgon: The Thevenet has more character and sweeter dark fruit, the Lapierre is more vinous and complex. Both are well made, the edge in concentration to the Thevenet, the edge in texture to the Lapierre. Others have reported bottles of the Thevenet with brett; I have not experienced those. Others have reported a disjointed showing for the Lapierre and I did not get that even when first opened. I think both of these will be more developed and complete with 2-5 years in the cellar. Depending on where purchased, they run $18 to $26/bottle and I would buy either of them again but not in quantity. Breton: This is lighter and more red fruit in style but has its own charm. A slight saltiness accents the palate. A friend tried another bottle and found it funky and weird. About $20; I’d buy it again but not in quantity. Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly: The Chanrion (Dom. de la Voûte des Crozes), Côte de Brouilly Les Crozes is very lively, fresh and juicy with red and black fruit flavors and a suppleness that is very expressive in the mouth. It can use some time down but is beautiful now. About $14; I’ll buy it in quantity. The Earl Alain Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vieilles Vigne is a dark, brooding tannic wine with mostly black fruit flavors and a texture borne of its structure and concentration. This needs cellar time. About $22; I bought it in quantity. Fleurie: Dom. du Vissoux’s Poncié may be the richest Beaujolais I have tasted in 2005; concentrated, integrated and smooth, somewhat atypical for Fleurie but still carrying the aromas and flavors of the area. But with roasted chicken and root vegetables this is beyond words; one of the finest wine/food pairings I have experienced. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; I’d buy it again. The Les Moriers bottling from Dom. Chignard, is not as rich but is rather more etched on the palate and more typical in both texture and aromatic profile. But its structure is very powerful, albeit hiding at the moment, and this needs decanter time now or several years in the cave. Imported by Kermit Lynch and about $21; I bought a lot. Moulin à Vent: From Dom. du Vissoux, I tasted the Les Deux Roches bottling which is purple, shows a good deal of tannin and structure, is well concentrated and has plenty of acid. It’s in the dark fruit register and pretty closed at the moment. Needs 5 years but has great promise for even longer term aging. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $22; I’d buy it again. Best, Jim

I think your major impediment would be that shipping laws vary, state to state. Running afoul of some of them can bring felony culpability and a nasty situation for your license. Other than that, I can't think of any reason not to do it. Best, Jim

Diane was away helping a sick friend, so I made fresh mushroom soup and some cheese toasts using a sheep’s milk cheese for a late snack when she got in. We drank the below barbera with the soup; the rest of the notes are from another time. 2004 Giacosa, Barbera d’Alba: Aromatic complexity I did not expect with an earthy, woodsy smell surrounding black fruit notes with a bright red fruit tone right in the middle, expressive and arresting; much the same on the palate with a satin texture, medium body, and a multi-layered series of flavors that keep me coming back; long, earthy finish. One of those ‘greater than the sun of its parts’ wines that belies its modest price. Imported by Locascio and about $16; I’ll buy more tomorrow. (I buy no barbera as I had never found one I wanted to drink again. But this is a pretty dramatic exception to my rule. Leave it to Giacosa to make me a believer.) After two days recorked but left out on the counter, the 2005 Chanrion, Côte-de-Brouilly seems unaffected by air; its more open and fruit driven, just as well-structured and beautifully fleshy and aromatic. A masterpiece, IMO; imported by Kermit Lynch, $14 and I will buy more. 2004 Dom. d’Aupilhac, Les Cocalières: A single vineyard from this producer at about 350 meters altitude and a GSM blend at 13% abv; fancy bottle (Bryant Family style); I can not help but compare this to the Montpeyroux – this is much more polished and suave, smoother and more concentrated on the palate and a bit longer, I think. There is rusticity to the Montpeyroux that is not in evidence here. Both are very well-made wines that smell and taste great but my impression is the Montpeyroux is more about drinking and this one more about tasting. Both have their place. Imported by Kermit Lynch and about $25; I’ll buy more mainly because my wife loves it. Best, Jim

2002 Ogier, La Rosine: Syrah that spends 14 months in oak, 10% of it new and gets a shot of micro-ox; smells like Crozes-Hermitage with olive, earth, garrique and mixed fruit tones; flavors follow the nose on a velvety textured delivery that is moderately dense and nicely balanced; medium length, well-balanced finish. No hint of reduction and plenty of character; what more could one want for $19 wholesale; imported by Robert Kacher; I’d definitely buy it again. 2002 Brundlmayer, Grüner Veltliner Terrassen: Honey, white fruit and celery scents; focused flavors follow the nose with a viscous, dense mouth-feel, good balance; very long. Accompanied pasta with asparagus and capers; yum. Imported by Terry Theise and about $8 on sale; I’d buy it again. With Diane gone for a couple days, I made pasta with caramelized onions and olives and opened a N/V Bodegas Hidalgo, Manzanilla Sherry La Gitana (500ml) that smelled of yeast, melon, nuts and salt air; the flavors followed the nose with a crisp, juicy, dry, delicate delivery that had 15% alcohol and had an endless finish. A really terrific combination and a wine just bursting with flavor. Imported by Classical Wines and about $7; I will buy more the instant I find more. Best, Jim

2005 Amesguren, Getariako Txakolina Ameztoi: Hondarrabi zuri is the grape, the Basque region of Spain its origin, 11% alcohol and a moderate spritz which is refreshing in the mouth. If there is a better aperitif wine, I can’t think of it. This is bright, citrus-flavored juice with a lacy texture, a cleansing acidity and a lightweight delivery that makes my mouth water. Imported by de Maison Selections and about $14; I’ll buy more. 1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Murto Vineyard: There is a stemmy, minty tone on the nose and, to some degree on the palate, and I can’t quite decide if it detracts or accents the rich, broad red and black fruit scents and flavors; texture of satin, full in the mouth but not heavy, 13.7% alcohol, balanced and persistent. If I have to guess (and I do, as I have several more bottles), this needs to be left alone for a year or two. About $30, on release; I’m ambivalent about repurchase. 2005 Dom. de la Voûtes Crozes (Chanrion), Cote-de-Brouilly: I want to drink this wine; the idea of tasting this wine seems forced; lots of “stuff” here – black fruit, minerality, complexity, harmony, face powder aromatics; echoes of the same on the palate with a hidden structure, excellent breadth and balance, 13% alcohol; a substantial and layered finish. Not especially acidic but lots of bright flavors. No “gobs” of anything; no hedonism; no hypothetical combination of X and Y; no blockbuster or tour de force. Any and all adjectives are diminished by the drinking – this wine appeals to me on a visceral level; let me drink deeply and not have to think about description. Oh yeah, this is good! Imported by Kermit Lynch and about $14; I bought some and will buy a lot more. Best, Jim

2004 Zind-Humbrecht, Gewürztraminer: At $17, the least expensive Z-H I have seen in awhile but this has a very expressive, spicy nose and is just packed with flavor, bone dry, beautifully detailed, and, length that is not to be believed. I don’t drink much of this variety but I will buy this again. 1992 Sullivan, Cabernet Sauvignon: Gently oaky, rich and ripe fruit, good grip and lots of layers. And at 14 years old, in no danger of fading. About $46, on release; I’d not buy it again but only because I have little use for cabernet – it’s certainly more intriguing than many present day cabs. at multiples of its price. 2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées: Wonderful wine; it has softened to the point that it feels viscous in the mouth and the texture is satin but the flavors are still bright and intricate, the structure is solid and the finish is long and cleansing. About $7, on sale; imported by Louis/Dressner; I’d buy it again at three times that price. 2002 Barthod, Bourgogne Les Bons Bâton: Lightweight, ripe flavors, silken texture and nice balance. A pretty, “little” wine but fuller in the mouth than these descriptors might indicate. Imported by Rosenthal and about $22, on release; I’d pay that again. N/V Colet, Cava A Priori: Very similar to Champagne with a strong bead, ripe apple and lemon-lime fruit, some yeast tones, 11.5% alcohol and a hint of sweetness. I like this but, among inexpensive bubblies, I like Nino Franco’s, Prosecco Rustico a little better for its bone dry delivery. Imported by Vinos and Gourmet and about $15; I’d buy it again but not in quantity. Best, Jim

Those of you with partners that don’t appreciate wine to quite the degree you do may enjoy this. Our usual is that Diane prepares dinner and I select, open and pour the wine. Other than to say a wine is corked, she seldom comments on anything I pour. As she says, “I like to drink it; I don’t like to talk about it.” Last night, when I poured the following wine (blind to her), she mentioned that it had a funky nose. Not wanting to interrupt her thoughts I responded something like “ummm.” Then she asked, “Is there mourvèdre in this?” Indeed there is! M’lady has been sand-bagging me, or so it would appear. But I’ll not mention that and see what other surprises are to come. Happy me! 2001 Edmunds St. John, Los Robles Viejos: My first impression is that this is high-quality CdP with great cut; lots of aromatic complexity; very bright fruit flavors that are equally complex but also have a touch of CA ripeness, good balance and excellent sustain. A blend of mourvèdre, syrah, grenache and counoise from the Rozet vineyard in Paso Robles; I understand that more recent incarnations of this blend are called Shell and Bones. A food wine, first and foremost and worth every penny of $27; I bought a lot and would again. Other tastes: 2001 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: Dusty cherry on both the nose and palate, good grip, complexity and balance, nice sustain. I simply can’t have too much of this wine in the cellar. Locascio imports and about $20 on release; I’d surely pay that again. 2005 Jean-Pierre et Jean François Quenard, Chignin Anne de la Biguerne: From the website: “This cuvée is made from 65-year-old vines, grown on chalk and limestone soils. After being harvested by hand, the grapes undergo a long fermentation with full malolactic. The lies are stirred in the tank for two months to give the wine additional richness and complexity. The wine shows mineralled notes (tonic) as well as higher-pitched floral notes. Something like a hypothetical cross of Grüner Veltliner and Muscadet. Production is just over 600 cases a year.” I couldn’t say it much better than that. And one case is not near enough of this at $10; I’d buy it again. Best, Jim

I suggest the following reading: Wine Books: Books with maps: The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson, ISBN 0-671-88674-6 The Wine Atlas of Spain, Hubrecht Duijker, ISBN 0-671-74558-1 The Wine Atlas of Italy, Burton Anderson, ISBN 0-85533-793-1 The Wine Atlas of California, Bob Thompson, ISBN 0-671-79663-1 Site specific books: The New Spain, John Radford, ISBN1-84000-928-4 Rhone Renaissance, Remington Norman, ISBN 0-932664-95-4 The Wines of the Northern Rhone, John Livingstone-Learmouth, ISBN 0-520-24433-8 A wine and Food Guide to the Loire, Jacqueline Friedrich, ISBN 0-8050-4390-X The Wines of Chablis, Austen Biss and Owen Smith, ISBN 0-9538101-0-0 The Wines of Alsace, Tom Stevenson, ISBN 0-571-14953-7 The Wines of the South of France, Rosemary George,ISBN 1-84000-793-1 Making Sense of Burgundy, Matt Kramer, ISBN 0-688-08667-5 Burgundy, Anthony Hanson, ISBN 1-84000-913-6 Côte D’Or, Clive Coates, ISBN 0-520-21251-7 The Wines of Germany, Stephen Brook, ISBN 1-84000-791-5 The Wines of Austria, Philipp Blom, ISBN 0-571-19533-4 California Wine, James Laube, ISBN 1-881659-25-9 North American Pinot Noir, John Winthrop Haeger, ISBN 0-520-24114-2 Northwest Wine and Wineries, Chuck Hill, ISBN 0-9617699-5-5 Barolo to Valpolicella, Nicholas Belfrage, ISBN 1-84000-901-2 Vino Italiano, Joseph Bastianich and David Lynch, ISBN 0-609-60848-7 General information books: Vines, Grapes and Wines, Jancis Robinson, ISBN 1-8573-2999-6 Wine with Food, Joanna Simon, ISBN 0-684-83522-3 Jancis Robinson’s Wine Course, Jancis Robinson, ISBN 0-563-37098-X Grapes into Wine, Philip M. Wagner, ISBN 0-394-73172-7 Understanding Wine Technology, David Bird, ISBN 1-891267-39-6 The Taste of Wine, Emile Peynaud, ISBN 0-932664-64-4 The Oxford Companion to Wine, Jancis Robinson, ISBN 0-19-866159-2 You will also need books on Bordeaux; I have none because it doesn't interest me much. But there are many in print. Best, Jim

Not entirely. Intracellular fermentation is only the first step, as the whole grapes are left in the fermentor (which has been flushed of all oxygen by carbon dioxide gas) and the initial part of the fermentation takes place without the involvement of yeast. Rather, in the absence of oxygen the grapes start to die and their own enzymes attack them turning some of the sugar to alcohol (usually about 3% alcohol). This usually takes 5-15 days and his done at elevated temps. The second part of the fermentation is when any juice in the fermentor is removed, the grapes are pressed off, the press and free run juice are combined and the fermentation is allowed to finish extracellular. Usually, this fermentation is done at much cooler temps. There is also a semi maceration carbonique in use in Beaujolais (mainly) where vats are filled with whole grapes without the vats having been flushed with CO2. Those at the bottom are crushed by the weight of those at the top and an ordinary fermentation begins due to the wild yeasts on the grape skins. This causes CO2 to rise to the top of the vat and seals out oxygen thus promoting intracellular fermentation in the grapes that are still whole. Of course, with this method, the amount of each fermentation in the mix is unknown. FWIW, I sometimes wonder if folks who do a "cold soak" actually understand that, by throwing dry ice in on top of their grapes, they are not only holding off primary fermentation but also encouraging intracellular fermentation. Although, many do punch-downs during the cold soak so perhaps the degree of intracellular fermentation is less than with the semi-carbonic maceration technique. Best, Jim

2005 Giacosa, Roero Arneis: Sappy, slightly resinous white wine with good acidity, a fine texture and lots of persistence. Especially good with Diane’s white chili soup. Imported by Locascio and about $20; I’d buy it again. 2004 Dom. La Garrigue, Vacqueyras: Salty and meaty on the nose; full bodied and savory in the mouth without great weight and a balanced, medium length finish. It may be 80% grenache and 14% alcohol but it doesn’t taste it – and for me, that’s a good thing. Imported by Eric Solomon and about $15; I’d buy it again. 1996 Dunham, Cabernet Sauvignon II: The nose is the aromatic embodiment of the concept ‘clear-cut;’ ultra-pasteurized, confected, oak syrup in the mouth with the unrelenting taste of wood sap on the palate that makes one want to spit. DNPIM. About $50 on release: I wouldn’t pay 1/5,000th of that for it. 1999 Giacosa, Barolo Falletto: The antidote for the preceding beverage and if any bottle of fermented grape juice can be worth $90 (and I’d argue against that), this is the one. Perfect balance, class, immense concentration without being extractive, a ripe and substantial structure, and a plethora of nebbiolo flavors and scents that are so harmonious that this wine geek can only be humbly grateful for such miracles. Has decades of life in the cellar but is sensational now. Imported by Locascio and, if I had the money, I’d buy it again. Best, Jim

2004 de Villaine, Rully Les Saint-Jacques: While this is well-made, solid, chardonnay I can detect the faintest hints of oak, the fruit is too sweet for me and the texture is softer than I’d like. Absolutely, nothing wrong here, it’s just that I prefer the more mineral driven, very crisp Côte Chalonnaise, Les Clous from this producer. About $23, imported by Kermit Lynch; I’d not buy it again. 2004 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: Very light and thin when first opened, this almost immediately takes on weight, suppleness and layers of flavor in the glass; a young, lightweight, elegant nebbiolo that does not pretend to be Barbaresco nor should it – it is lovely, charming, life-affirming juice all on its own. About $25, imported by Leonardo Locascio; I’ll buy some more soon. 1994 Flowers, Pinot Noir Camp Meeting Ridge: For years this was so tannic as to be unbalanced; now it has come to a mellower place; still too much sour oak for me but the wine beneath it shows the kind of quality that can be achieved on the Sonoma Coast – deep, pure, ripe and very complete. Not my style of wine-making but there’s no denying the quality of the fruit. About $55 on release; I’d not buy it again. (Incidentally, this wine was made by Steve Kistler and is the same wine as the 1994 Kistler CMR.) Best, Jim

2005 André et Michel Quenard, Chignin: Another set of Quenards (the Savoie seems to be overrun with them) making lovely wine that is reminiscent of pinot gris on the nose with a bit of apple mixed in and reminiscent of grüner on the palate less the spiciness. All and all, a lightweight, bright, vinous wine with charm and detail. About $13; I’d buy it again. 2003 Dumol, Chardonnay Chloe: Oaky, viscous and pedestrian; should be $10, not $60. I’d not buy it again. 2004 Droin, Chablis Les Clos: Unbalanced, oaky, sour and unpleasant. About $45; I’d not buy it again. 2005 Harrington, Pinot Noir Gap’s Crown: Started thin but gained weight in the glass and became more candied. And why any pinot weighs in at 15.8% is beyond me. Price unknown. 2001 Poiera: Solid, velvety and complex; not profound but certainly enjoyable. About $30; I’d not buy it again at that price. 2004 Ostertag, Pinot Blanc: Very flavorful and enjoyable with excellent acidity and good depth. About $14; I’d buy it again. 2004 Dom d’Aupilhac, Montpeyroux: Mouvèdre 30%, carignan 28%, syrah 25%, grenache 12%, cinsault 5%; spicy, round in the mouth with a worsted texture, good depth, savory aromas and lots of staying power. A friendly wine with or without food and has the substance and balance to cellar awhile. Really good and just $15; I’d buy it again. Best, Jim

N/V Cristalino, Cava Brut: Fair bubbly without flaws but I wouldn’t buy it again. 2001 Domino de Tares, Bierzo Cepas Viejas: Unbelievably over-oaked. Diane says it tastes like water with wine flavoring and an oak overlay – the oak is so strong it has leeched any flavor out of the fruit such that the wine seems thin and watery. Absolute, total garbage without any redeeming value. I would not accept it as a gift let alone actually spend money on it. 2004 Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo Pétalos: Solid mencia without any obvious wood, good structure, concentration and sustain. A good wine with cheese or more flavorful fare. About $16; I’d buy it again. Best, Jim

2005 Earl Alain Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vieilles Vignes: 13% alcohol from very old (over 85 years) vines; black fruit nose with talcum powder and earthy accents; a sinuous, satin smooth delivery that is chocked full of black fruit and has substantial tannins, bigger than expected but better balanced than the size would first indicate; long, grippy finish. One hell of a wine; expressive, authentic, youthful, almost brooding depth and an imposing (but ripe) structure; one to hold. About $22; buy it by the case; I did. 1999 Nigl, Grüner Veltliner Piri Privat: The breadth of this wine amazed me; as always, this producer’s wines have plenty of cut but this was also sappy and deep, almost fat, with powerful scents and flavors and lots of developing complexity in a perfectly balanced, very easy to drink wine. From the Senftenberg vineyard, about 13.5 % alcohol and, at release, about $23; larceny at that price which I would surely pay again. 1998 Ogier, Côte-Rôtie: A wine I have followed since release and it has always been impressive; now, all the more so for its more expansive and beautifully supple mid-palate; always an aromatic wine, it has developed some secondary character and texture, retained its ample yet understated structure and has at least twice the complexity of its youth but the fruit of the mid-palate is heart-stopping. Truly, a wine deserving of the descriptor ‘great’ and, at the $41 I paid for it on release, something to buy as much of as financially possible. Best, Jim