alacarte

Boston Globe – May 21, 2003 It must be almost summertime – the first of the BBQ articles has arrived, albeit with a New England bent. Smoking Success: A barbecue chef goes beyond the basics on the grill, adding flavor without the flames By Alison Arnett, Globe Staff Recipe: clambake on the grill Hunters and gatherers: On the trail of the Morel By T. Susan Chang, Globe Correspondent California festival's cookbook stalks some wild asparagus recipes By T. Susan Chang, Globe Correspondent “The Asparagus Festival Cookbook” receives a mixed review. Recipe: Pan-fried asparagus with new season morels Recipe: Light and fresh asparagus soup Heaven Sent (A treatise on Angel Food Cake) By Andrea Pyenson, Globe Correspondent Recipe: Flo’s Angel Food Cake Recipe: Lemon Angel Food Cake On Wine: An American finds success in Burgundy By Stephen Meuse, Globe Correspondent

What does one do with popped mustard seeds? Are they a garnish, a seasoning, a snack like popped corn?

Apparently paw paws also are a traditional fruit for Southern/ Appalachian cooking. I attended a Culinary Historians lecture this past week, at which writers Matt Lee and Ted Lee spoke about traditional Appalachian cooking, and paw paws were mentioned in passing. (they also served samples of Kentucky ham, shuck beans, chow-chow relish and corn bread -- alas, no paw paws!) The Lee bros. have an article on Kentucky cooking scheduled for Food & Wine magazine; also a book on same.

What do you think would happen if you tried to make cheese, yogurt, ice cream, etc., out of human breast milk? P.S. I'm NOT suggesting that anyone try this!!!

I am really enjoying (and getting addicted to!) these missives. Keep 'em coming, Louisa! My favorite parts are: and the part where the menu signing is likened to a high school yearbook signing. Looking forward to the next installment!

Boston Globe – May 14, 2003 Reinventing the marshmallow Recipe: Marshmallows! Making it legal: After 15 years, a new Legal Sea Foods cookbook is on the shelves Recipe: Sole with lemons and capers Marketing strategy: At Montreal's Atwater food market, selling is serious business It’s a charmingly descriptive article, and the greenmarket graphic is enough to make me drool. But ummm….why is this in a Boston newspaper again? Confidence in the kitchen: Cooking coach Alyson Zildjian is at the head of the class Delicious artichokes are a pleasure to savor Review of new book on French wine: “The New France” by Mitchell Beazley

Follow-up thought: A friend who attended a corporate event, also at The View in NY. The outside of the restaurant revolves, but the inside is static. While talking with a colleague, my friend (standing on the static portion) put down his drink on a table (on the revolving portion). When he finished talking and looked to pick up his drink, it had rotated halfway across the room!

My sister & I gave my parents a gift certificate to The View in NYC one year. It was a really bad idea. My mother got motion sick, and hated the experience. Upside: she was too queasy to eat her dessert, so she brought it to me: a tiny piano constructed entirely out of chocolate. It was wonderful.

I love "The Minimalist" column -- I rip it out of the paper and try to cook from it at least once a month. Thanks for some inspiring recipes! What is the origin of the "Minimalist"? Was the column assigned to you, or was it your own conception? How & when was it decided that a column on "minimalist" cooking was needed, and what does the word "minimalist" mean to you? Thank you ---

Also along that "indoor/outdoor" line -- Vince & Eddie's on the upper West side. I think it's on 70th St. between CPW and Columbus.

If the bride has a sense of humor, I'd recommend a reprint (or vintage original, if you can score one) of "1,000 Ways To Please A Man." It's circa early 1900s & is about a newlywed learning to cook. (yes, it's a cookbook, not porn!)

I bought a black radish once. Was not impressed, it was just like a regular radish, only with a stronger kick to it.

We had lunch at Cafe DeVille sometime last year and liked the food. Speaking of French bistros in that neighborhood, I hear that Pitchoune has closed -- as I recall, it had a couple of sidewalk tables -- and that an Italian is going into that space. DeVille has a kick-ass cheese plate. Ah, too bad about Pitchoune. It will be missed. But I look forward to the new arrival -- thanks for the update, rozrapp!

This is going to be a tough one to answer. I've noticed since the no-indoor-smoking ban was instituted, every restaurant with a bar has rushed to offer outdoor seating. NYC has just become one big outdoor seating cafe. Am I complaining? That depends if I'm sitting or trying to stroll by. Cafe DeVille on 3rd Ave & 12th St. just set up outdoor dining. I like the food (French bistro, but unpretentious) & the people-watching, so it gets my vote.

I'm not a sturgeon fan myself, but I give Barney Greengrass a big thumbs-up on their smoked salmon and whitefish. Really lovely stuff, and excellent bagels too. Big chunks of tomato and red onion served on the side. Oh yeah. I hate delis that offer limp, waxy salmon on stale bagels. Held together by cream cheese that resembles paste. Bleah. I'd rather eat an Egg McMuffin. But I agree that the nostalgia factor is high here. Although the joint could use some sprucing up, I do love that they have the original fixtures from (I'm guessing) the 1940s.

Too bad there isn't a sane way to gather all the frites together for a tasting. They'd be cold 'n soggy. otherwise, I'd be in for a frite-tasting, for sure!

MMMMMM, frites! I love this thread already. B Frites on Broadway in the 50s, near the Letterman theater. But they don't keep, you have to eat them right then and there. Otherwise, I vote for Ore-Ida steak fries from the freezer.

This is a great thread!! Or at least, it was until the "Elmo flesh" bit. This would make a great book topic. The only "dead cake" recipe that I have is the WWII staple, "Victory Cake." But I'm told that it tastes rather like the sole of an old shoe, so I'll refrain from posting it in this otherwise quite mouth-watering thread.

I never thought of "diagramming" drinks before! Thanks for expanding my horizons --

Boston Globe – May 7, 2003 What is it about the taste that makes so many students reach for Coke instead of coffee first thing in the morning? The kitchen the Gradys built The second in a series on renovated home kitchens designed for people who really cook. Boston’s scene adjusts to the new smoking ban. Green warrior urges buying locally. Article focuses on nutritionist Joan Dye Gussow, who advocates eating locally produced food. Whole Foods Recipe: Grilled Andouille sausage and sweet potato salad Profile of the Bread & Butter Baking Company Go online to explore a world of exotic food The Vegetarian Chef: Escarole and lemon risotto

Thanks loufood -- I appreciate the explanation!

Loufood, what is "dry butter"? That's a new one to me, and it sounds intriguing. Apologies if this was covered in one of the other threads.

Thank you Sandra.

Hear, hear!

I remember a Ruth Reichl article, in which she recommended that diners sample the butter (a capella, no bread) before even picking up a menu. If the butter tastes like the refrigerator, she counselled, you should run.