TarteTatin

Menton- We were visiting the Marais a few days after your post, on January 3 or 4th, and called the number to make a reservation at Amadeo. They accepted it, we walked the few blocks and there was nothing there at that address except for an old persons bright tabac/bar, with a couple of old guys having cafe at the bar. No seating whatsoever. So we went back to our apt and rang again, and asked if it was Amadeo. They said it wasn't; that they had gone out of business. Not sure what the place was that answered, or why they took our reservation, who knows? But we ended up going to Chez Janou that night. Always like it there, just behind the Place Des Vosges...smoky and loud, but good food.

Here's a vote for Northern Liberties. We have lots of restaurants, but the only bakery is Kaplan's which has been here for 100 years, I think, seriously! It's a kosher bakery, lots of great black bread, rye, and Challah rolls, but the pastry is old fashioned and frozen, I'm pretty sure. We could use a really good bakery in this area!!!

The Mexican place at Reading Terminal is where we always buy ours. It's squishier than the Martin's chorizo....tastes good to me! I like their Chihuaha cheese there too.

Lunch with a client right before Xmas was amazing. I had lobster truffle mac and cheese, not a lot of truffle taste (darn it), but delish! My client saw the small portion and thought I'd never finish, since he presumed it was too rich. It wasn't and I did, no problem. Others had the crab cake and I think a BBQ beef sandwich on a brioche or something similar, my memory says. So, Katie, and all who responded earlier in this thread. When in February are we doing an egullet dinner there?

I only read this last page, so I don't know if it's been mentioned... But we love Britain's Typhoo Tea. Very basic, but the loose tea is delicious. It's our house blend.

Grew up with homemade Jewish chicken liver with eggs, onions, etc. Yesterday, I made Elizabeth David's classic chicken liver mousse. Simple. Chicken livers cooked with brandy, salt and pepper. Delicious. Simple. Gorgeous. (She also suggests gin or vodka in place of brandy if you don't have it) Completely different than what I grew up with. Better? No, just completely different. Like the difference between country pate and mousse. Or Lox and Gravlax.

New York Times, today, Wednesday, full page ad. (Wonder what that costs?)

Hubby makes them with Lavender oil that he picked up in France. The best! We also have about 5 different types of Madeline pans. I think he likes them all. (different sizes, one Silpat)

Wow! I'm so bummed, we'll be staying in Epernay between Xmas and New Year's, and Les Crayeres is closed then! Thanks, John T., for the other restaurant recommends in that article. Hopefully, they'll be open that week.

Yes, Katie, that was the dish! Ropa Vieja. Anyway, since we're on a Mexican kick (thanks to this thread), I stopped at Taco Rienda today for a late lunch. That's the little, cute restaurant on 5th, one block north of Girard. Got take out to bring home. Very pretty, brightly painted, extremely clean, I mean perfectly so....cute little tables, and there was about 5 employees busily prepping, and this was 2:30... While it was being cooked, I talked to the owner, the same handsome guy with the silver hair I used to see cooking at Las Cazcuelas....he's thrilled with the new place, I asked about all his help and Las Cazcuelas... turns out when needed, the employees go back and forth! It's only two blocks. He said there should be a review in tomorrow's paper, was very happy that there was a camera crew in recently and the same reviewer came back a few times (Craig?). I asked about BYOB, he said certainly...they are also open for breakfast and he was touting the Huevos Rancheros. The only difference between this place and Las C. is that he doesn't have nice glassware, he said, which I assumed to mean nice plates also...It's also a bit more informal than Las C. -and, I think, more creative. Las C. was getting to be the same every time, nothing changed...Taco Rienda seems more adventurous. They had items like Beef cheek, Beef Flank, Beef Tongue on the menu, Lamb soup, etc. There are also specials on the blackboard behind the register. Anyway, came home with an incredible special of the day-a Shrimp Burrito ($7). This was filled with shrimp and rice, very large and delicious. (It wasn't plain rice, can't describe it, but very, very good)-- We also had a Choriqueso which is a chorizo/oxaca taco, and tried something called corn sopes. They were 3 corn steamed tacos topped with beans and cheese, so fantastic! They have a whole section of "steamed" tacos, which I think are softer, not the hard?? There was a side item of extremely crisp slices of radishes and three cubes of the freshest lime wedges. Not sure which dish they were intended for, but used them with all! -- The three items cost $16. While I was there Chef gave me a taste of this rice drink on the counter. I really wasn't interested (rice drinks in concept don't do anything for me)...this was great! It tasted of vanilla and cinnamon, no rice taste at all, very refreshing! So forget what I said yesterday about bland Mexican food with no spices or taste. Taco Rienda is super! He uses lots of fresh spices and herbs, very fresh food.

We were there a few months ago for a wine tasting dinner. We rented the whole place. Absolutely amazing. I agree with you, Katie, just brilliant! How about an egullet dinner there in February?

I've found that when I've bought the pain d'epices at the street markets in Paris, they have a sell by date on them dated a few months later...they also aren't as good as when you get them fresh down in Burgundy. Maybe there is a bakery that sells them fresh rather than pre-packaged in the marches... Also, Raisab, is there an official site that has those food rules on it? We get stopped all the time by the beagle, and I want to be prepared. Rather than saying, "well this is what I heard on egullet"!

Went to Mexican Post for lunch today...I know, I know, but its just a few doors from our office, and it was sort of a snow day, and we used to love it there for cheap fake Mexican years ago... I had a Margarita (for lunch, on a work day! Don't tell anyone!). Sam had a beer. Margarita was as I remember them to be. Not Copa, but okay. Their salsa is still as fresh and addictive as it used to be, the chips still fried and "moreish" (as in, I have to have more!) I had Fajitas-steak. The waitress asked how I'd like it cooked! I said Rare. No, I didn't get it Rare, but it certainly wasn't cooked to death! It came sizzling to the table with sauteed onions and green and red peppers. A nice sized portion, enough for two to share, really. It was very good, just lacking any sort of spices. It amazes me how afraid so many people are of spices, and that shouldn't be in places like Mexican food places...It doesn't have to be hot peppery to be spicy! The side dish I barely touched. Two types of plastic cheese, yellow American and white American or Cheddar, some no taste sour cream, a tiny round of no taste guacamole, some no taste plastic tomatoes and no taste iceberg lettuce, along with a couple of no taste tortillas. Bland food. The Fajitas were good, I just left the side plate. Sam had some sort of old rope dish, or that's what the translation was from the Spanish. It was supposed to be spiced beef. It was okay, with the typical sides of rice and beans and a small mound of sour cream. $36 plus tip. We knew what we were getting....I've heard Happy Hour is still fun there though! And you should see the men's toilet! Sam said its decorated like a dessert scene, with cactus' going down the drain or something. Ceramic/pottery glazed, the waitress said its hand done.

Went to Sovalo Wed. night, just walked in early and got a table... They served good bread and a Kalamata olive spread. We ordered an Italian Syrah, which was cherry-like and a bit too young, I think, even though it was a 2002 and Syrah. Maybe another year or two would give it the depth I saw the potential for...$28 Sam loved his sweetbreads topped with chanterelles, frisee with pomegrante seeds/sauce. Very tasty. I had a half portion of the homemade ravioli with apples, sage, and I think goat cheese. I like my ravioli fluffier rather than flat and noodlelike, it didn't have much stuffing at all. It was dry, not really with any sauce at all, I don't mean that in a bad sense, I kind of liked it. Topped with two perfectly fried sage leaves. He had Rockfish over leeks and something green...Pesto? Not sure, all we remember was how perfectly cooked it was...and how horribly oversalted it was! He usually loves to eat the skin when its cooked right, and this was so unbearably salty he couldn't eat it. His face turned bright red, and he gulped down a few glasses of water to try to calm it down. I had a chicken liver risotto with cranberries, topped with fennel and lightly fried thin onion rings. Or sauteed, not really fried. There were no pieces of meat, it was totally smoothly pureed into the risotto. Again, not only over salty, but extremely rich. I felt like I was in an old age home eating soft food. Interesting concept, but not sure it worked, and not sure about the whole cranberries with it. We shared a hot chocolate for dessert, with biscotti and cookies. Not quite like the hot chocolate we've been getting lately in Paris! (There you get a pitcher of just melted dark chocolate, a pitcher of cream, and you mix your own) But, not bad. Overall, the $112 was about double what we spend at the Tap, and the food there is always consistently good. (Just didn't feel like that smoke filled atmosphere) - (plus, the tap doesn't have pasta) - (come to think of it, neither does N.3rd, unless you count mac and cheese) I actually think Mandoline is a similar type of place to Sovalo, and Mandoline is BYOB! The food might even be better at Mandoline. We'll give Sovalo another try soon...

Oh, I wish I'd read this thread before we went to the Lawrenceville Inn two weeks ago! We get together with some friends who live in the Princeton/Newtown area on the Saturday after Thanksgiving for a meal. In years past they have come down to Philadelphia, and we've had some memorable meals at LaCroix and The Fountain. The consensus was that since two couples of the three couple group live in the Central Jersey area, it would be easier, cheaper, and safer (drinking, etc.) for us to come up, go out, and stay over. The other two couples have been raving about the Lawrenceville Inn for awhile now - the food, the attentive service, the charming setting and we were ready to give it a try. (Acacia just down the street was delightful) To take it in reverse order - The setting is definitely charming. Gorgeous frame house, tastefully decorated, display kitchen, and pleasant staff. We were seated in the front dining room - a nicely set table for eight (one couple has two grown children who joined us). The light level was good, and the music was not loud - I hate music in restaurants, but that is a topic for another time. We did have a window with a curtain on it into the kitchen, which didn't bother us until the end of the meal, when we all could smell the bleach that was being used to clean the kitchen. The smell was strong enough that we all commented on it. Things moved a bit slowly, and one of the servers couldn't seem to understand that we wanted both still and sparkling water on the table. (a totally minor quibble on my part) - What I don't get is why this place or any fine dining establishment allows servers to wear rope bracelets or Livestrong bracelets or anything on their wrists when they're serving food. Every restaurant that I've worked in specified that you could only wear a watch and nothing else as jewelry. Otherwise the service was OK. Nothing special, just reasonable, mostly young, suburban service staff. The food was just short of mediocre and that’s about the best I can say about it. The low points were the foie gras appetiser which was amazingly overcooked and the sweetbreads which were just above rare. The only high point, in my estimation, was the squash soup with the duck confit, and that was over salted. The main courses just weren’t inspired and not that well cooked though prettily presented. The venison was less than stellar although our dinner partners were in ecstasy over it (couldn't figure out why as it was mealy and kind of tasteless). Again however, the main problem was salt - there was too much of it. I don’t want to seem too critical, but there seem to be far too many restaurants out there where the cook, because of a lack of skill and confidence uses salt and other seasonings to ‘gee up’ the flavors of food instead of letting the natural flavors come through. I know I’ve done it, in the same way I’ve overused other flavorings. It’s just starting to get old to run across the same tired tricks again and again. Needless to say, we won’t be going back to the Lawrenceville Inn. It’s just not that good for the prices they’re charging.

Also: We took pictures when we were there last month, and friends said he looks a bit like an Elvis impersonator! Very cute. How fun is that!

Tuile a Loup, at the Censier Daubenton Metro in the bottom of the Moufettard market is a lovely pottery, kitchen and napkin/tablecloth shop. We've bought lots of Terre de Provence platters and they have a great selection of kitchen/dining room gifts. And, the staff pack it well for travel on the plane! Right next door is Delice de Daubenton. He sells all sorts of artisinal food products, we got lavender oil from there that we brought home and make lavender meringues from. Also mustards, etc. We usually go to a Monoprix or similar for bulk dark chocolate bars, soaps, (cheaper than L'Occitane)- fluffy prunes, bisquits to bring home (Hediard almond, etc.). We also bring home tins (not glass) of Puget olive oil and, if we have an ice pack, we bring home a puff pastry/millefeuille from the refrigerator/freezer case. (We really only have Pepperidge Farm here in the states, and they have, like, 10 varieties in the grocery store!) We also buy a few packages of Herbs de Provence and packages of Bouquet Garni from the supermarche... Gosh, what else? Supermarche shopping is our favorite! We bring back what we can carry! We also bring back soaps from the marches! People love gifts of little soaps!

Having missed going to the recommended places for "real" hot chocolate (from the numerous articles last year), our last afternoon was spent at the Gallerie Lafayette food hall (beginning of January '05). We sat at the counter that serves coffee. I had an incredible, indulgent hot chocolate. With the pitcher of real chocolate and a different pitcher of cream, to mix as I wished! Not sure if it was the same as all the places I read about, but I found it delicious and decadent. Hubby shopped around while I drank....I think he had a Panini or a fancy sandwich from the Italian stand there. I know they have a champagne and caviar bar-you can just sit there and have a glass of champagne, if you wish. The cheese bar looks great, the bread place had fresh Madelines. So, lots of different food "bars" and a gourmet section and wine section to boot!

Penzey's is the best. But Kaluystan's in NY is good too, especially for Indian spices, etc. I believe they have a web site.

Oh dear, you didn't pay for this, I hope. Thanks for all the info. I have never heard of that bistrot in my whole life. ← Yes, we paid - I really didn't want to get into a dispute with inadequate French at my disposal. The food wasn't 'off', just overpriced and disappointing nor was the wine corked - just a jug wine masquerading as something it was not. If the restaurant had a web site and an email address, I'd write to them, but as to sending them a letter, I just don't feel it is worth the effort. Far better to vent here on eGullet and Frommers. I reckon that by getting the word out on the web it'll do far more than any letter of complaint I would write to the restaurant. And I think that even if I did write to them, they wouldn't do a thing about it. Unlike the time we had a really bad time at Chez Panisse back in the 80's - I wrote a letter outlining the problems we had and got a letter of apology back from Alice Waters along with a refund of the bill, apart from the wine.

No, they didn't, and I refrained from mentioning it until we had left and were walking back to our flat. I believe if I had said something it would have gotten extremely ugly in the restaurant. I rather wish that I had asked Madam for the label. I would have liked to have seen her reaction. Pim - thanks for the recommendation for Le Timbre - we'll try it when we're back at Christmas.

Ate at the Fromagerie 31 last week in the 6th. I had the Auvergne plate...three nice cheeses from the Auvergne, over salad, and served with a cold marinated lentil salad. Sam had this hot cheese, potato goo, that was marvelous. Aligote? There were other choices of different cheese platters by region, and lots of wine, and it was nice out, sitting in the sun. Lovely.

Chez Jenny at the Republique, or Marty sort of near the Place D'Italie. They are both okay for that type of food... I don't know. Maybe Bofinger is best. They all seem to give us the English menu immediately, even though we try to always speak French. It's all sort of condescending. And the food is pretty similar.

We never do use Frommers, but in our 'decalage horaire' we succumbed to the pressure of our friends. And also, we didn't want to be too pushy with them that first night, as we had taken the bedroom.

We all know that it is possible to eat badly in Paris, just as it is anywhere, but when it happens on the first night of a trip, with old friends, it is even more disappointing. And so, herewith the following cautionary tale. We arrived on Saturday morning to a beautiful day in Paris, got settled into our lovely rental flat on rue Cherche Midi. Had a coffee, a nap and then our friends arrived. And then the inevitable question: 'Where shall we go for dinner?" We had several ideas, but being tired from the flight, and not wanting to be too pushy about restaurant choices (considering that we had snagged the bedroom and our friends had the pull out bed in the living room), deferred to their choice of restaurant. Not only deferred, but agreed wholeheartedly, as the description in Frommers was lyrical. Jewel box of a room, ... the kind of restaurant where one expects to see Left Bank intellectuals, carefully balanced, fairly priced wine list , charming welcome, traditional, but extremely well executed, cuisine, "the menu items may include a marinade of mushrooms with coriander; a navarin (rich stew) of lamb with scotch beans." We called, made a reservation for 8P for the four of us and anticipated a good first meal in Paris. We decided to walk because it turned out it was just down rue d'Assas to rue de Flerus opposite one of the gates to the Jardin du Luxembourg. The outside certainly was a charming looking restaurant. It was called Chez Gramond. We looked at the menu - hand written - posted in the window - along with some glowing reviews (should have checked the dates) and went in. Frommers got one part right - it is a jewel box of a room, but one that was empty of guests. Should have been the first clue that not all was right at Chez Gramond. It was after all 8:15PM on a Saturday night. Madame took our coats, seated us, at the table at the back, gave us menus and wine list. We declined aperitifs as we had already had had a bottle of wine at the flat. We ordered food, fairly pedestrian stuff, but then two of us were jet lagged and the other two a bit less adventurous. Two potiron soups, an order of escargot, marinated mushrooms - 2 Navarin of lamb, one sanglier, coquilles with leeks and white wine. We turned our attention to the wine list - again hand written. There were 4 bottles priced under 40 Euros. A Pays d'Oc, a Beaujolais, a red Chinon and an Anjou. We went for the Anjou at 39Euros. Everything else was above 90 Euros. The wine arrived and was placed on a table across the room. It was not presented at the table. I noticed that there was no capsule on the bottle, but thought little of it, as I pull capsules off of wine bottles all the time. I watched as Madame uncorked the bottle and thought momentarily that the cork was sticking out of the neck a bit but chalked that up to my being tired, and brought it over to the table for me to taste. It was fine, if a bit full bodied for an Anjou with a bit more tannin than I expected. She left the bottle on the table, and brought out our entrees. It was then that we all began to realize that we had been steered wrong by Frommers and our jet lag: The soup was, to put it kindly, insipid. No taste of pumpkin, no taste of cream, just a faintly chemical canned soup taste. The escargot were hot, garlicky, and traditional, but cooled down very quickly, as if they had been micro waved. The biggest disappointment was the marinated mushrooms, which had obviously come out of a jar. Madame came out and cleared two appetizer plates before everyone had finished. And I studied the wine bottle. Suddenly I realized that we had been had and that Madame was pulling a fast one with the wine. The wine bottle was recycled. There was no neck label, but there was a residue of glue where there had been one. The main label was slightly crooked on the bottle and there was no back label. And there were obvious signs that the bottle had been used more than once, scratches, marks, etc. I was tempted to say something to the rest of the group, but decided that I didn't want to make a scene especially because I was tired and the wine wasn't bad, just not what it was represented to be. I realize now that I should have. In fact, I should have called Madame on this obvious chicanery, told her I wasn't paying for the wine, and left the restaurant. To my regret, I didn't. Main courses arrived. The coquilles were passable, fresh with braised leeks and the only dish that was as described. The navarin of lamb was more beans than lamb and what lamb there was was tough and muttony tasting. The biggest disappointment was the sanglier - obviously frozen, overcooked so it was like eating vaguely boar flavored shoe leather, and with a sauce made with flour. We finished, Chef came out, we chatted briefly, or rather he told us about his son in Connecticut who manages a restaurant in Greenwich. We asked for the bill, paid and left. Total cost for the night 201.60 Euros including 23 EUROS for the escargot which looked to be priced at 13 Euros on the menu. As we left we noticed the six other patrons who had been seated - they were all Americans, they were all over 60, and they all had a copy of Frommers. Now, I know that had both of us been a little less tired and willing to defer to our friends choice we would have pushed for a place we knew. And had the restaurant not been on a quiet street with no other choices around it I would have walked out as soon as I saw that there were no other patrons when we arrived. And I do know not to take Frommers recommendations. So, there you have it - Chez Gramond at 5 rue de Fleurus in the 6th. My top pick for the worst restaurant in Paris. I will be posting this on Frommers Message board as well.