TarteTatin

We never do use Frommers, but in our 'decalage horaire' we succumbed to the pressure of our friends. And also, we didn't want to be too pushy with them that first night, as we had taken the bedroom.

We all know that it is possible to eat badly in Paris, just as it is anywhere, but when it happens on the first night of a trip, with old friends, it is even more disappointing. And so, herewith the following cautionary tale. We arrived on Saturday morning to a beautiful day in Paris, got settled into our lovely rental flat on rue Cherche Midi. Had a coffee, a nap and then our friends arrived. And then the inevitable question: 'Where shall we go for dinner?" We had several ideas, but being tired from the flight, and not wanting to be too pushy about restaurant choices (considering that we had snagged the bedroom and our friends had the pull out bed in the living room), deferred to their choice of restaurant. Not only deferred, but agreed wholeheartedly, as the description in Frommers was lyrical. Jewel box of a room, ... the kind of restaurant where one expects to see Left Bank intellectuals, carefully balanced, fairly priced wine list , charming welcome, traditional, but extremely well executed, cuisine, "the menu items may include a marinade of mushrooms with coriander; a navarin (rich stew) of lamb with scotch beans." We called, made a reservation for 8P for the four of us and anticipated a good first meal in Paris. We decided to walk because it turned out it was just down rue d'Assas to rue de Flerus opposite one of the gates to the Jardin du Luxembourg. The outside certainly was a charming looking restaurant. It was called Chez Gramond. We looked at the menu - hand written - posted in the window - along with some glowing reviews (should have checked the dates) and went in. Frommers got one part right - it is a jewel box of a room, but one that was empty of guests. Should have been the first clue that not all was right at Chez Gramond. It was after all 8:15PM on a Saturday night. Madame took our coats, seated us, at the table at the back, gave us menus and wine list. We declined aperitifs as we had already had had a bottle of wine at the flat. We ordered food, fairly pedestrian stuff, but then two of us were jet lagged and the other two a bit less adventurous. Two potiron soups, an order of escargot, marinated mushrooms - 2 Navarin of lamb, one sanglier, coquilles with leeks and white wine. We turned our attention to the wine list - again hand written. There were 4 bottles priced under 40 Euros. A Pays d'Oc, a Beaujolais, a red Chinon and an Anjou. We went for the Anjou at 39Euros. Everything else was above 90 Euros. The wine arrived and was placed on a table across the room. It was not presented at the table. I noticed that there was no capsule on the bottle, but thought little of it, as I pull capsules off of wine bottles all the time. I watched as Madame uncorked the bottle and thought momentarily that the cork was sticking out of the neck a bit but chalked that up to my being tired, and brought it over to the table for me to taste. It was fine, if a bit full bodied for an Anjou with a bit more tannin than I expected. She left the bottle on the table, and brought out our entrees. It was then that we all began to realize that we had been steered wrong by Frommers and our jet lag: The soup was, to put it kindly, insipid. No taste of pumpkin, no taste of cream, just a faintly chemical canned soup taste. The escargot were hot, garlicky, and traditional, but cooled down very quickly, as if they had been micro waved. The biggest disappointment was the marinated mushrooms, which had obviously come out of a jar. Madame came out and cleared two appetizer plates before everyone had finished. And I studied the wine bottle. Suddenly I realized that we had been had and that Madame was pulling a fast one with the wine. The wine bottle was recycled. There was no neck label, but there was a residue of glue where there had been one. The main label was slightly crooked on the bottle and there was no back label. And there were obvious signs that the bottle had been used more than once, scratches, marks, etc. I was tempted to say something to the rest of the group, but decided that I didn't want to make a scene especially because I was tired and the wine wasn't bad, just not what it was represented to be. I realize now that I should have. In fact, I should have called Madame on this obvious chicanery, told her I wasn't paying for the wine, and left the restaurant. To my regret, I didn't. Main courses arrived. The coquilles were passable, fresh with braised leeks and the only dish that was as described. The navarin of lamb was more beans than lamb and what lamb there was was tough and muttony tasting. The biggest disappointment was the sanglier - obviously frozen, overcooked so it was like eating vaguely boar flavored shoe leather, and with a sauce made with flour. We finished, Chef came out, we chatted briefly, or rather he told us about his son in Connecticut who manages a restaurant in Greenwich. We asked for the bill, paid and left. Total cost for the night 201.60 Euros including 23 EUROS for the escargot which looked to be priced at 13 Euros on the menu. As we left we noticed the six other patrons who had been seated - they were all Americans, they were all over 60, and they all had a copy of Frommers. Now, I know that had both of us been a little less tired and willing to defer to our friends choice we would have pushed for a place we knew. And had the restaurant not been on a quiet street with no other choices around it I would have walked out as soon as I saw that there were no other patrons when we arrived. And I do know not to take Frommers recommendations. So, there you have it - Chez Gramond at 5 rue de Fleurus in the 6th. My top pick for the worst restaurant in Paris. I will be posting this on Frommers Message board as well.

We just returned a few days ago from Paris. Went to Le Comptoir twice for lunch! Last Monday, four of us- just stopped in for lunch around 12:30, they immediately sat us down. Food was absolutely delicious bistro food. Gorgeous lamb shank over cous cous with apricots and prunes and raisins, Brandade, the Nicoise was just okay, Mixed Saucisson appetizer that was wonderful, with blood sausage and who knows what else on that platter. Good wine-we had an Alsace Riesling from Ammerschwihr which was delicious. Nice people, saw the Chef, etc. Told the waiter we followed the Chef from La Regalade....the Creme Caramel we all split was on the house. We asked if we could come back on Thursday for lunch for my birthday, and the waiter said to come around 12:30. Two of us got there at 12:15, the other two were very lost and didn't make it until 1:00. I was dying that they were late...."Pas de problem", the waiter answered, and gave us two glasses of delectable rose champagne for my birthday! Had Lobster bisque, scallop ceviche with caviar and roe-oh, dressed with delicious fruity olive oil and harissa! So delicate, thin slices of scallops, bits of black caviar! I don't remember the other entrees and plats....gorgeous rhum au baba...what else? I think we had a Morgon...plus at the end of the meal, four more glasses of Champagne appeared. 'Bonne anniversaire!' Chef was waiting tables that day! I don't know if they were short handed or what, but he was having a good time, and really working! He seems to be hands on, likes what he's doing. He was present the entire lunch. So, twice in a week, and both experiences were excellent.

John- You recommended the above non touristy places, do you have the addresses or arrond.? My Parisian friend doesn't know the places (but she really doesn't "get out much" for meals...) Yesterday we lucked out at Le Comptoir for lunch, will write later...wonderful. Chez Janou was okay, and we had a HORRIBLE meal at a Frommer's recommendation in the 6th, right by the Jardin Luxembourg, called Chez Gramond! We think Madame used an old bottle of some sort of wine and re-corked it...we'll write at length soon.

Merguez sausage and cornbread. Simple and outrageous.

Thanks, Andiesenji! We used the first recipe you sent, and made it last night. Hubby cooks Indian a lot, so he made his own combination of Madras Curry paste (who knows what he put in!). We haven't tasted it yet, but it smells great! Froze most of it (without the milk/cream), and we'll have it for lunch tomorrow.

I got a fresh cooking pumpkin from my CSA, and I want to make a soup similar to the Soupe au Potiron that I get in France. Can anyone help with recipes for something similar; or, if not, just a good pumpkin soup recipe? I also need help with the actual cutting and cooking of the pumpkin itself. Thanks!

We think the bacon from Fair Food is the best we've ever had anywhere. That's all we buy. I'm not sure which one it is, (they carry two, I think). But it's packaged in foil by them... It's just tastier than any we've ever had. Plus, its local, plus, I think it's nitrate free, but doesn't seem saltier. Comes frozen, and I buy a few packages at a time to put in the freezer. Speaking of Fair Food, but a bit off the subject: (maybe start a different thread?) Has anyone tried Dr. Elkins ground beef at Fair Food? He's a local farmer, used to be a Doctor, I believe. It's the tastiest burger meat in the world! Local, no added anything, etc. ----and very tasty! The meat itself has tons of flavor, its not bland or insipid.

Did I miss something about "Jeff"?

Oh, I forgot the smell of white truffles in the soup.

Yes, its the best Bar Food in town. It's also the best food in town for that price. We are there at least once a week-since we live blocks from there. Talking to the owners, they are totally into local produce and meats. Paul (one of the owners), likes to experiment with different cuts of meat as well. Whether you're in the mood for a sandwich, (try the Salmon sandwich, which is a thick portion of regular, not smoked-salmon), or an incredible homemade chicken liver mousse, or a great Bouillabaise, or Lamb Steak, whatever they have is great bistro food. Better than a lot of bistros in Paris! No, really! The brunch is amazing. They used to have this "Pork Plate". Haven't seen it recently. It was a soft boiled egg in an egg cup in the middle. Surrounded by: A slice of thick ham, a round piece of sausage, two pieces of really thick bacon. Decadent. I love their Hollandaise on the Eggs Benedict. The bisquits and sausage....yum... Even their fruit platter looks amazing. You're right, Philadining. I can't take my mother there. Seating is wherever you can find it. But we love the place. Bottle of wine for $24.

Okay, Friday night was the bee's knees! Go to: http://homepage.mac.com/susangish/PhotoAlbum4.html Shola started us off with a very special amuse bouche...He knew I loved good scallops. A gorgeous scallop came topped with a piece of herb that looked like mint (I asked a million times what it was and still can't remember!). There was tuna (toro?) with a dollop of miso. There was mackarel. There was a tomato/almond gazpacho. God, I don't do any of these descriptions justice. This wasn't on the menu, so I can't describe it in words. -- Can someone come into my brain and give my tastebuds the words I need to tell all of you? It was all raw/ceviche, cold, melt in your mouth wonderful. The next dishes, I'll give you off the menu. But I have to say once again, these written words DO NOT DO THE DISHES-TASTES justice! I wasn't blown away with what I saw our menu to be in advance. It sounded good, but not great....WOW. The tastes were just amazing. They completely topped the written words... This 2nd time completely and utterly topped the first time, which we thought rocked....Now I see why so many of you have gone back a zillion times. If he gets better every time you go, then.....! Butternut Squash soup poured on top of Poularde Confit, which was on top of an Asian Pear slice and a gorgeous quail egg. Yum. The crunch of the Asian Pear, the chicken and egg, and the soup, all worked so well in my mouth. My mouth was crying out for more! Parsley Rice (yeah, right. Like anything Shola makes is "parsley rice". This creation of risotto, really, with big fluffy peas, I think. On top of this "reesey peesey", were three gorgeous slugs, sorry, escargot, fluffy, not tough, with marcona almonds, Finocchiona (which I found out is a sort of sausage/salami?), manchego cheese, and topped with a nutmeg/milk foam. I could have a bowl of the Parsley rice for dinner. Topped with a little of that Finocchiona and cheese. Oh, reading the description, there were black trumpet mushrooms in that as well! Striped bass, rolled in a thick piece of Serrano Ham, over a mushroom marmalade (yes, it was a totally different mushroom marmalade than we had last time). There was a Stuffed Braised Squid and somewhere there was a morel emulsion and sherry vinegar which I think I saw the bottles of. I know I'm missing telling you something about this dish. Have to go back to the pictures and try to remember...I love fish and ham. Sort of a chicken cordon blue, but with fish! I'm not very much of a squid person, but this wasn't rubbery and was very tasty. What was with the squid that I'm missing?.... Waygu Flatiron Steak, cooked for 32 hours sous vide! This was a gorgeous, melt in your mouth piece of meat. It simply melted. With an oxtail madeira jus, over the best creamed spinach you could ever imagine eating. I could do a bowl of that too! This is not ordinary creamed spinach! There was a tender chestnut in the middle. Stunning. I was too full at this point, and knew I wouldn't have room for dessert, so Shola let me ask for a doggie bag! (That waygu the next day was wonderful cold, for late breakfast!) We didn't, unfortunately, take a picture of the dessert: Ginger Scented Peaches, Apricot Caramel, Almond Granola, Lemon Scented Buttermilk ice cream. I remember the granola crunch going so well. Shola really likes to play not only with tastes (and they all work), but I love the textures as well. Food is an art, but as I am learning, it is a science as well. I used to think only baking was a science... The wines weren't great this time. (Last time was with our wine group) We had a couple bottles of Bordeaux, Sam and I brought a bottle of '96 Mont Redon from Chateau-neuf-du-pape back from France...a Moscato D'asti...the rest were pretty basic. I think the tastes this time were a million times better than the first time (and the first time was perfect, so I don't know what that makes this time). The adventures were greater. I believe once Shola knows that you are serious about loving food, and enjoy it immensely, he's free to do whatever he creates and knows we'll "eat it up"!

We're going tomorrow night!!!!! 2nd time! Yes, its easier. I still feel like I'm imposing whenever I communicate. (Funny, it usually happens the other way around in my business) The menu sounds good, a couple of items are exactly the same, but its okay. We have 8 different people going with us this time. ...and this set of people aren't as much into the wine selection as our wine group from last time. We might just have a couple of bottles of Turning Leaf for all I know! Gosh, I hope not. (Now I'll probably overcompensate and bring a million bottles in case that happens!)

Merci from both of you! We were also thinking of trying Camemborde's place for lunch, with a back-up plan, since dinner reservations are slim. Thank you again!

Congratulations, Greg! We've always loved your food, your professionalism, and your passion for local ingredients. I don't think you have to worry a bit. Everything will be just dandy!

Well, I took your advice and hubby made it himself tonight! We asked at 12th St. Cantina in Reading Terminal. They looked at us funny and suggested the Amish Pork guys across the aisle. So, we went instead to the Fair Food Booth. Ann Karlen sold us yummy pork roasts, shoulder. Sam came home tonight and cooked it. Can't tell you how, that's why he's the cook. It's 11:30 and we just finished taking it out of the string-and it literally fell off - almost didn't need the knife! So, thank you all for your advice! Our Mexican theme dinner party tomorrow night will be good. The pulled pork-- and shrimp and chorizo something, both in tortillas (corn and flour)..., salsa cruda with fresh pomegrantes, corn soup to start from our CSA this summer, stuffed peppers from the CSA- with rice and chihuaha for a side dish... Of course, off theme, he made a tarte tatin for me with a hazelnut crust....what else? Oh, he's making sweet potato chips as apps with some sort of Mexican spice....Anyway. Fair Food really has good, local stuff, including meat...

We were just there a few days ago, on Saturday! We saw you! I remember commenting about grilled cheese sandwiches, and how neat that was. My husband and I traveled up to Montreal from Philadelphia for the weekend to see Michel Sardou. The market was the only thing we did besides eat out and see the concert. Great market....bought lots of cheese and all sorts of items to carry back in the car. The teeny size of the bluets were super! So sweet and cute! We were surprised at the many colors of the cauliflower....the gorgeous tiny artichokes, gosh, what else! What a super market! Some of those pumpkins were huge! Laloux and L'express were great. The Chef at Laloux talked to us a few times, the Maitre'd at L'express was nice as well... Trois Brasseurs was a good brew pub on St. Denis, with a tarte flambee/flammekuchen...the lunch place at the market Prince Noir was good. ...And the concert was super! Wish we would have had a grille fromage!

We'll be in Paris again the second week of November, celebrating my birthday, from the States, and our friend's birthday, from Paris. She lives near the Place D'Italie. They'll be 6 of us; we would like a bistro. While we normally stay near the Place D'Italie, or sometimes in the Marais, this time four of us are staying in the 6th near Polaine. The section of town doesn't actually matter, we'll travel within the Peripherique. - But, every time we take our Parisian friend out, she tells us its touristy! What local, non touristy place, not too high end, can you recommend? We have been to La Regalade, Temps Des Cerises, and lots of other places, but would love your recommendations...

We're having a dinner party on Friday, doing a Mexican soup to nuts. We want to serve pulled pork (as well as shrimp, etc.) in soft flour tortillas that we'll get at Reading Terminal. (For one of the courses) Where can we buy already cooked pork? We normally would cook this ourselves; but not enough time...Does Delilah's sell it? If not Reading Terminal, where should we go? The BBQ places on South St.? If it's too difficult to find already cooked, anyone have any fast cooking ideas for this? Thanks for your help!

I dream of Fromage Blanc. Gorgeous. I like it for breakfast, sort of a cross between incredible cottage cheese and fromage frais.

I know its out of your area and high end, but we once called Jamin on a Friday about 6 p.m. and got a lovely table for 8 p.m. Just try, last minute reservations, for wherever you want to go!

You guys are tough. Way too harsh on Markk. He's funny! So, Markke, we must have gone to the same place outside of Strasbourg! Where the Burgatti place is...The absolute BEST tarte flambee I've EVER had. Molsheim? Served exactly how you described it. I yearn for it. Keep seeking it out here in the States, but, alas, it's just not quite the same lardon...fromage...onignons...

Y'know, right next to Standard Tap is Rustica, which makes a heck of a good pizza. We usually get a white pizza with spinach and sausage. Great....Their stromboli is good too.

has. I'd be curious to know, does anybody reading this thread from the top think that my first post was humorous? I thought it was very, very, funny! Perhaps we have the same sense of humor?

We were in Saumur last Christmas. Stayed at a lovely place right on the water, in front of the castle. Hotel Anne D'Anjou. The food we had in Saumur itself wasn't magnificent. Les Ministrals, the restaurant in our hotel was the best in town, and then there was a good bistrot called L'escargot or something similar. There is something on the main church square that is recommended that we found appalling. Tours has Poniatowski Vouvray, if you can get a private appointment for a tasting. Chinon has a good winery that we visited. So does Poitiers. I see you are from Delaware. Go to Moore Bros in Wilmington and they'll help you and tell you where to visit. Food wise, we weren't that impressed.