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KennethT

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Everything posted by KennethT

  1. KennethT

    caper leaves

    Thanks... are they intended to be eaten raw, or slightly cooked? Also, what are they supposed to taste like?
  2. KennethT

    caper leaves

    I recently got a gift of some greek caper leaves, packed in brine... the question is - what to do with them? I haven't tasted them yet, but I gather they taste like capers, but there's a bitterness to them... Any ideas?
  3. I've seen different types of butters (salted, unsalted, goat's milk butter) etc... or lardo that's been infused with rosemary, then whipped and piped into the dish... or olive oil with olives pureed into the oil...
  4. KennethT

    Steakhouse

    I like the idea of a somewhat varied menu... plus, I think the idea of a steak tasting is fantastic - so people can compare a grass-fed to standard or wagyu or maybe even different aging times - which I know can be logistically difficult, but with computerized inventory management, I don't see why it couldn't be manageable....
  5. I was thinking about serving a little Iberico ham for a friend's birthday coming up in a few days... what's the best way to serve it? I know that Robuchon does it on grilled bread with a fine dice of tomato and microbasil... but I don't think that that's traditional... Is it more traditional to grill the bread slices, then rub a tomato over the surface? Any other ideas?
  6. I also like striped bass, but another good one is black bass... I actually find that it is better SV than any other method because it is so easy to overcook... I think I did it at 117F the last time and it came out great - moist, flaked perfectly... I think you can usually get it at the Lobster Place for $8.99pp....
  7. KennethT

    Cooking with Activa

    Interesting... back in a thread from 2005, WD said that it was a cold set product and that they mix, extrude, then set in refrig overnight and poach the next day... 646522 is his eGullet name.... here's what he wrote back then: And then later that day: I wonder if he's still doing it that way, or doing it differently now, more than 4 years later.... ETA to try to make the quotes more obvious...
  8. KennethT

    Cooking with Activa

    My first two experiments with Ajimoto Activa transglutaminase GS are complete - one a complete success, the other an utter failure... Experiment number one is Frankenduck... I took 2 pekin duck breasts, removed the skin/fat from each, and completely removed all tendons, ligaments, connective tissue and tenderloins.... once the removal was complete, I brushed on my slurry (1:4 by weight) and glued the 2 reconstructed breasts together with the detendoned tenderloins, then glued one piece of skin with most of the fat sliced away on top. Wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight... The result, when sliced across the breast, the seams are invisible and it is impossible to tell that this was ever 2 pieces of meat! Even the fat/skin glued on perfectly... what a great product.... The failure was an attempt at the now infamous shrimp noodles... I was planning on pureeing shrimp, run through a tamis, then combine with the slurry and flatten the paste between 2 sheets of plastic wrap... then, when bonded, i would cut the "noodles" with a knife - like making fettucine by hand from a sheet of dough... the problem was that the shrimp didn't bond - so the next day, I took off the plastic wrap only to find that my paste is still, well... pastey.... In defense of the TG, I didn't weigh howmuch shrimp I had, or how much slurry I added to the shrimp - I did it by eye... also, the slurry was the left-over slurry from the duck which had sat in the refrig. for about 24 hours prior to shrimp... basically, I did the duck one evening, and put the remainder of the slurry into the refrig... the next evening, I checked outthe duck and was so pleased I said "what else can I glue???"... after searching the freezer and refrigerator, the only protein I had readily available was the shrimp... it thought about doing a shrimp steak or other Frankenshrimp idea... but just decided to puree it and try the noodles... So anyway, there are a couple of areas for error here... I'll try it again with fresh TG and measured weights to have a better trial...
  9. KennethT

    Allegretti

    I'd like to thank everyone here for turning my wife and me on to Allegretti... we went last night, and it was excellent, both for the price, and regardless of price. I know it's summertime, and restaurants are typically less full, but including ours, there were 7 tables occupied all evening... such a shame - I really hope this place can survive this! Here's what we had: Grilled quail: It was perfectly cooked - nice and charred on the outside and rare on the inside - just the way it should be, IMO... it came with a lovely salad of cucumber and shaved celery witha yogurt dressing... Prawns on a stick (not the actual name): here, there were 3 shrimp (all perfectly cooked) on a rosemary spear, served with a variety of baby vegetables in a sauce I don't remember what was in it - but it was delicious and addictive. Tagliatelle with shrimp, octopus, calamari, etc... the octopus was maybe the most tender I've ever had.. and all other items cooked perfectly as well - I'm sure they must have cooked all seafood items separately and combined at the end... pasta was nicely al dente, with another addictive sauce Branzino with stuffed calamari- I feel a bit like a broken record, but the fish and calamari were both perfectly cooked - the fish was juicy, flaky, and the skin was nice a crisp... the calamari tender with a very tasty stuff, I don't happen to remember - but I remember it was great too.... All together with a lovely $32 rose from Provence.... We will definitely be returning here!
  10. I bought 10 pounds of the same thing from CajunGrocer a while ago... I found the same problem - many of the shrimp have thin shells, or rough shells and are pretty hard to peel... Once I finish this amount, I don't knowif I'd get them again... they do have a nice shrimpy taste to them, though...
  11. Yep... I actually got unbelievably lucky... my wife and I had talked about going back to UPN one last time before the rumored close - we were debating going this weekend or next... turned out we had some time on Sunday and decided to head down there around 7:30... turned out, we were the last people on line when thye came out and said that after us, they were to run out of dough!!! What crazy insane luck is that! I had to have that filetti one more time - and it was good to be able to finally convince my wife, who prior to this said the margherita was her favorite... now it's a tie... I hope Motorino can get that same dough -I loved his dough!!!
  12. BKF is good, but I've found that a much easier solution to getting rid of the polymerized fat on hte inside is to fill the pan with water, dump in a bunch of baking soda, and let boil for 10-20 minutes.... Comes out factory clean with virtually no elbow grease... plus, the baking soda residue gets all over the stovetop, which when you wipe it away cleans that too... hehe... I don't know if this is ok with non-stick though...
  13. KennethT

    Cooking with Activa

    I've been writing to one of the USA sales managers of Ajiusa and am ANXIOUSLY awaiting my samples... he has given me some pointers in addition to what is on the website: This is what he said: "Because ACTIVA is a live enzyme, it is affected by both oxygen and moisture. For this reason, ACTIVA is packed in a sealed foil pouch lined with its own oxygen barrier layer. The shelf you can obtain, once opened, will depend upon how long the bag remains open and under what conditions. We recommend opening the bag and taking out what you intend to use and then closing it immediately. If you have the capability, I generally recommend heat sealing and place in a vacuum bag and keeping it in the freezer. This will give you the longest shelf life. Six months is possible, three months for sure." Also, in a different email, he wrote: "Here are a couple of quick pointers on the use of the ingredient. Please, first and foremost, remember the enzyme will experience oxidation in the presence of air. When you receive the samples - don't open the pouches along the "tear lines" in the top of the 100 g pack, take pair of scissors and cut the corner of the bag at an angle - just enough to pour out the volume that you want to work with. Then with the remaining material - fold the mylar bag opening over a couple of times - and seal it with a paperclip or binder clip. If you have a small cryovac machine - you could vacuum the open sample before placing it back in to the freezer. An even better option is to heat seal the open pouches. These small samples have an oxygen absorber capsule in the bag - whereas the commercial 1 Kg Bags have an oxygen absorbing film separating the ACTIVA from the oxygen absorber. I only mention this to make you aware if you use the entire 100g sample at one time, you must be aware not to pour the oxygen capsule into your vessel of the substrate (beef, fish, pork, etc….)." Edited to add more content
  14. Jean-Francois - most circulators have an 'auto-tune' function - you just have to read the manual to find out how to initiate it. Once you run the auto-tune (the process takes about an hour, usually), the circulator will set the P, I and D values, along with some other values, into memory that work best for the situation it was tuned with. These values tell the heater how much power and how fast to react to any changes in the system - like adding a cold piece of chicken. Changing anything, liek the water volume, insulation of the vessel, covered vs uncovered, etc. will necessitate changing these values since it will affect how fast the volume of water heats and cools. For instance, let's say you have a heavily insulated vessel that is covered to minimize evaporation... well, evaporation is a cooling process, so the less water that evaporates, the less heat the system needs to keep it at the same temperature. If you take the cover off, you get more evaporation, more cooling, hence the heater has to run with more power to keep the temperature of the system stable. I guess the bottom line is to read the manual and find out how to turn on the auto-tune function with your circulator. If, for some reason, yours doesn't have an autotune, then I suggest reading a bit about how to set the PID values and play around with it to get it to work properly. There's tons of information on the internet and I think somewhere in this thread about how to tune your PID system. Maybe you want to try a search in this thread for "autotune" or "tune" or something..... Hope this helps...
  15. The issue is the effect of time on the tuning parameters of the controller. When I put my 1KW circulator in the regular 10 liter bath, it responds quickly in a 0.4 degree F range. When I mount it in a large poly cooler (~50 liters) it is much slower and reset functions cause greater over and under shoot. There is no problem heating a million liter bath, if your insulation is adequate. Paul ← Paul - yes, of course the same 1KW of power will take much longer to heat 5X the volume of water, and that mass of water will take much longer to cool - so it's slower to respond in general. However, if tuned properly, your circulator should not overshoot or undershoot much more than normal. Do you autotune it each time you change bath sizes? In theory, every time a parameter changes, (i.e. the bath size changes, or you add insulation to the bath, or you decide to cover it when it was tuned uncovered, etc., ) you should re-tune your circulator parameters, otherwise, it will use the same parameters for all situations, which is not a good fit. Or, if you constantly alternate between a couple of situations, you should autotune each and copy down the settings. That way, when you change situations, you can just enter in the new settings as opposed to running a lengthy autotune every time.
  16. KennethT

    Sous Vide Braises

    Time is mostly dependent on thickness of the package... if you look in the first 10 pages or so of the main Sous Vide page, there is a chart that correlates time to thickness. Also, you can see Douglas Baldwin's website for that info also... you can find his site with a google search for his name and sous vide. Just make sure the package isn't thicker than 4 inches - because it takes so long for the inside to come up to temperature that it wouldn't be safe. Personally, I like veal loin on the medium rare side - so I would SV it at like 128F to 130F... or so... but if you have eggs in your meatball mixture, you may want to cook it at 131F for at least 89 minutes after the time it reaches full temp in the center so that you get rid of any salmonella/listeria that may be lurking around...
  17. hmmm.. I have no problems with ziplock bags leaking.. just don't use the zipper ones.. the ones with the double seal work great... It's actually pretty easy to get all the air out - just dip the open bag in a big pot of water and the water pushes the extra air out... close the seal while the water is up to the top of the bag. I used to use a Food Saver for everything, but now I never use it - I'm on a ziplock only diet... so far I find it works great - dare I say better than the food saver.. no problems with liquids in the bags, etc... actually, I still use the food saver for high temp stuff - because I'm not 100% on the plastic leachingness of the ziplocks at higher temps.. I've recently emailed SC Johnson about this - I'm curious about their response - I'm assuming it'll be a bunch of CYA-type stuff - like "they aren't intended for that type of service".... we'll see... I'll post something if I hear anything interesting.
  18. Very interesting... I could be completely off-base, but it seems like the high vacuum could be boiling the osmatic fluid in the muscle cells, rupturing the cell wall... during cooking, some liquid is escaping the cell, moistening the meat, but making it dry inside... so, to the tongue it tastes dry and mushy.... I wonder what the test results would be if comparing a zip-lock bag with the air squeezed out? Many restaurants in NYC previously approved to do SV are now running into problems where some inspectors will not allow them to use their vacuum machines... in these cases, it's common for them to use zip-lock bags instead... I know one chef who is so happy with the zip-lock bags that even if he was allowed to use his vacuum machine, he may stick with the zip-locks... the only problem is the added cost...
  19. What have you found to be the best temps for them?
  20. I also usually puree the whole can upon opening, and then I put in a tupperware type container and freeze... it defrosts really quickly and refreezes great... I put a couple tablespoons of the puree in a bag with a trimmed pork tenderloin, vac and seal, and let marinate overnight or about 24 hours... then into a 58.3C waterbath for about an hour or so.... remove from bag and torch while basting with the bag juices.. serve with a gastrique... Or sometimes we do buffalo burgers with ground buffalo - since I don't have an outdoor grill, I'll smoke them for about 10 min., then grill until rare... top with sliced avocado and chipotle puree... Also agree with the above - chipotle aioli rocks....
  21. I agree - even 10-12 minutes in the smoker results in a very smoky end result... Recently I did a BBQ chicken... first I simmered skin on chicken parts in water for a few minutes to render some of the fat under the skin, then into an ice water bath to stop cooking.... dry then rub with Klink's dry rub... smoked over Hickory wood in my stovetop smoker for about 15 minutes, then into the bag and 60C water bath for about 1.5 hours - to make sure it was fully pasteurized... then it was hit with the propane torch until nice and crusty... came out juicy, delicious, and oh so smoky, with a good char on the outside....
  22. There are some who might tell you that sourdough-like flavor has no place in pizza dough. In my comparing UPN to Keste (admittedly, not at the same time nor even in the same day), I think the ingredients that Keste is using to top its pies are just as high-quality as the ingredients being used at UPN. Without the attitude and at a more gently price point. ← Well, there's definitely place for the argument that the sourdough quality doesn't belong in a pizza... with that being said, we thought it made for a more complex, interesting flavor - whether or not it "should" be there... I'm not saying Keste's ingredients aren't first-rate... I was just saying that they were remarkably different to UPN - remarkably meaning noticeably - especially when you hvae them back to back. I also didn't find the attitude that so many people complain about with UPN. In fact, we walked away saying how nice and pleasant everyone was. Nothing over the top, but the attitude never would have occurred to me if I hadn't heard about it prior to the visit. Keste's service and attitude is very nice also - maybe more so... the manager (owner?) is constantly walking around making sure everything is ok.. and chatting with patrons, especially the Italian ones... In any case, I'm splitting hairs a bit - both make a fine pizza... my personal preference leans towards UPN... but overall, I would go back to Keste for the better atmosphere and pricing... hearing about the no byo is a little disappointing - especially since now there is no wine option whatsoever... I love corkage restaurants (even ones with their own wine list), but I don't know if I'd want to go to dinner with no option of having some wine. I may wait to go back there until they have their license...
  23. A few weeks ago, my wife and I did a comparison between the two.... It started as a joke - about a month ago we went to Keste for the first time and we were very impressed.... a couple weeks later, we went to UPN.... at the time we were blown away by UPN - we thought it was on another level than Keste (not slighting Keste which is excellent).... so midway through our meal at UPN, we joked about going to Keste immediately following and have a margarita taste test.... so the more we joked about it, the more we liked the idea.... Our results: We thought the crust at UPN definitely had a more complex, almost sourdough like flavor, and was overall tastier than Keste... But, it's also almost twice the price, and, as of a few weeks ago, you could bring your own wine to Keste with no corkage fee... We decided that we enjoyed the UPN margarita pizza better than the Keste version, hands down.... I also enjoyed my filetti very much at UNP... but we also decided that we will still go to Keste because it's such a good value, and comparison aside, makes an excellent pizza. I think comparing the two is sort of like comparing diamonds - sure some are nicer than others, but at the end of the day, they're still both diamonds... and the prices - our meal at Keste with a toscana salad ($8), margarita ($12), salsiccia pizza ($18) and a bottle of sparkling water ($4) was $42 plus tax/tip... a bottle of Dolcetto we brought from home - probably about $15-18... so total about $70.... UPN (for two pizzas ($21 each), bottle of wine ($39) and a bottle of sparkling water ($8)) was about $100, cash only. I don't know if I answered your question tupac.... All in all, to me UPN is all about the ingredients - awesome dough, cheese, tomatoes, and that's basically it... Keste's dough is good, but not as complex, the tomatoes are good (but seemed a bit sweet to me) and cheese is good... but all in all, thought UPN was a higher quality pie... but Keste has much more variety, plus they have salads and interesting looking appetizers... not to mention the corkage deal...
  24. I know that you can veal neck bones from Fresh Direct for like $2 per pound... I keep saying that I need to go to Ottomanelli to see what they charge, but haven't made it there... I'm not a regular there, but they know me by face... I'll be curious to hear what you found...
  25. I was experimenting with vegetables at 185 F. for an hour. On some, I felt the package until there was give. I think the carrots went 90 min. I did potatoes, carrots, broccoli, and whole mushrooms. Frankly, I was not impressed with the results. EXCEPT for the mushrooms. They came out rich flavored and great. A lot of potential for various finishing techniques - or none. The potatoes were cut in a 1/4" dice and tasted good, but compared to what versatility you can get with potato preparations, no big deal. Carrots were done, but not impressive. Broccoli yuch. I am very willing to hear results from others that might give more interesting veggies. Stu ← I experimented with asparagus last night... I got really nice thick ones that I peeled, seasoned then in the bag with a couple pats of butter... Into the bath at 150F (65.6C) for about 8 minutes (as per instructions from discussions MUCH earlier in this thread).. then shocked in ice water and kept refrigerated until ready to serve... reheated in 128F (53.3C) bath used for cooking lamb... The results - my wife loved them... I also enjoyed them... they had the texture of being "cooked" but still had a crispness to them... if you like your asaparagus on the soft side, this may not be the way to go... they also had a really fresh taste - more so than with asparagus that I do normally...
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