Katie Meadow

I never imagined there were so many ways to pronounce one simple word; where else but eGullet? But thanks for this thread. Now I know we weren't making some hideous mess out of the word when we were in Provence recently, since several posters have confirmed that indeed it isn't a common aperitif in bars or cafes in France. My husband speaks pretty good French, but all the waiters were confounded when he ordered it. We gave up and instead got into drinking Porto, chilled, and then into Martini Rosso over ice with a slice of orange; both drinks have now become my new favorite warm-weather starters. I was introduced to Lillet by a friend who likes to add a splash of lemon juice and a twist of same. My husband likes to make a drink called a Corpse Reviver, which uses equal parts of gin, triple sec, Lillet Blonde and lemon juice. The recipe (from Gary Regan's Mixology) also calls for a drop of absinthe. We subbed Pastis; he likes more anise flavor, I like less. It's a very fun drink, altho the revival potential is lost on me---but then, I'm still alive. Absinthe, however, according to today's NYT, has been revived.

Ling, Vengroff, I never did follow up on my recent trip to WW. Here are a few observations. I checked out the salumeria where Ling found the delicious Petit Jesu. The owner is very nice, a transplant from my neck of the woods, the Bay Area. He has some wonderful meats and cheeses from a variety of places. In the East Bay certain sources seem to be shut out, so I've never before tasted anything from the Batali operation in Seattle--that was really interesting. I also had some fabulous Oregon and Washington cheeses I hadn't tasted either. We ate at 26 Brix and my steak was excellent; tasty and cooked just right for me. I thought my meal was the best--husband and daughter didn't order steak. We also had a reservation one night at Saffron. I have a daughter (student at Whitman) who has a very sophisticated palate but who has also acquired a philosphy that doesn't favor spending a lot of money on food--even when her parents are spending it. Admirable on the whole, but it can be annoying. In addition, she gets overstimulated and can't relax or have a good time if there's too much attitude or racket. Saffron has both. We walked in at about 7:30--all tables except ours were taken--and the noise was horrendous. In addition the chairs were so hard and uncomfortable my daughter balked and we left for a more subdued experience elsewhere. Had the weather been better and had it been daylight I can imagine sitting outside would have been great. This is a restaurant designed with a capital BUZZ in mind--a fact that the waitress had no hesitation confirming; she admitted it was noisy on purpose. It's the "anti-cozy" theory--high ceiling, tight seating, sound reverberating. Everyone appeared to be enjoying themselves, but we really wanted to talk to our kid! Some other time we'll go without her. Two mornings we picked up our NYT at Starbucks and then made a bee-line for the Colville Patisserie. Lovely place! The coffee was delicious and the cakes looked unbelievable. I think I am going to order a cake there for my daughter's birthday. Having just returned the week before from France, I will recuse myself from the croissant-judging.

What is the Feast of Seven Fishes? It sounds yummy. Are there even seven fishes left that aren't toxic or endangered?

My husband and I made lemon curd for many years until I got sick of it and also had to start watching my cholesterol. We tasted many commercial and artisanal curds and we always felt this one compared well. It is an easy recipe and very reliable; believe me, if it was a delicate operation we would be divorced by now. We never used a thermometer. The proportions and timing were arrived at after years of tweaking. It's quite tart. We experimented with using limes instead of lemons and cutting back the amount of sugar, and that wasn't half bad. This recipe yields approx 3 half-pint jars with a few tablespoons left over. The result is very spreadable, medium stiff. Perhaps if you want it very stiff you could cook it another five minutes. The consistency would work for a lemon tart I think, but we mainly used it as a spread for toast. 7/8 cup lemon juice (from 4 or 5 lemons--not meyer--way too sweet) fine zest from 3 of the lemons 4.5 medium-large eggs (okay I know that's a bit strange, but there it is) 1 stick sweet butter 1.5 cup plus 3T sugar Sterilize jars as you like. Grate lemon rind, eliminating all pith, set aside. Squeeze lemons and strain the juice to get 7/8 c. Beat the eggs (I would beat 5 and then pour off what I guessed was about a half an egg. My husband learned to look the other way. When he used all 5 eggs I thought the end product was too eggy.) In a double boiler melt the butter, keeping the water at a modest simmer. When just melted add sugar, juice, zest. When warm but not too hot, add the beaten eggs--all at once, not slowly, so you keep them from cooking too quickly. Simmer uncovered over medium or med-low heat, stirring constantly, about 20 minutes, til smooth and creamy. The consistency may look questionnable the first 10 minutes, but keep stirring and have faith. It should end up smooth and creamy. Ladle into jars. Keeps 2 months in the fridge.

Howdy, Jensen. You have sound instincts. The breeder's definition of a Heritage turkey in the above mentioned NYT article includes the ability of the turkeys to propagate naturally. Now would be a good time for a geneticist to step into this discussion and shed some light on whether or not there is a proper usage for the terms "Heritage" and "Heirloom" as used in today's food production. Common sense suggests that these terms should derive their use from the original meaning of the words. Heritage is used mainly with respect to humans, and refers to a birthright, and so implies a genetic relationship. Heirloom is most commonly used to refer to objects that belong to those humans and which are passed down through generations. Perhaps "Heritage" is a better term for those older types of tomatoes--but too late now.

Radicchio is one of my very favorite vegetables. I usually use the round kind since that's what is most often available, or more rarely treviso. In Venice I saw several kinds I had never seen before--some wild and twisty ones. Cooking radicchio, especially with a little garlic, seems to take the edge off the bitterness, but that bitter taste is part of the appeal. I shred radicchio and throw it into risotto about ten minutes before it's done. I briefly saute it w/minced garlic and top a pizza halfway through the cooking time. I quarter it and marinate it in balsamic vinegar (actually I use a relatively cheap red vinegar and add some balsamic), olive oil, salt and pepper for about half an hour then grill it slowly on the bbq until the edges are a little charred. But my standby--and the easiest way--is a simple saute. I cut it roughly and separate the leaves, then saute it in olive oil for two or three minutes on modest heat, add salt and pepper. Another minute and I add a couple of minced garlic cloves. When it is tender, only another couple of minutes more, I finish it with a splash of balsamic and serve it up. If you find it too bitter for your taste, use a sweet balsamic vinegar. I sometimes like to use a fig balsamic. It's a five minute side-dish! I've never added prosciutto or pine nuts but that sounds good. Just tossing on a handful of toasted pine nuts would dress it up a little. Eating it on pasta sounds great too. I've seen traditional recipes that pair it with balsamic vinegar and raisins but I'm not into cooked raisins.

Wow, I'm amazed--as usual--by the ambition of so many eGulleters. I'm with those in the "simplify, simplify, simplify" category--and my immutable responsibilities for the yearly dinner w/my husband's large family only extend to the turkey and stuffing/dressing, gravy and a cranberry side-dish. My first thought is that if you are inviting friends who are good cooks, by all means let them help! Let them bring veggie side-dishes, their best pie, etc. You can't have too many vegetables. If they are bad cooks tell them to bring wine. After many years of hors d'oeuvres before a turkey dinner, I think less is more. With the exception of my father-in-law's home-cured olives, we have pretty much abandoned the pre-feast. Keeping it simple and not too rich seems to have a good payoff. Olives, spiced nuts, cruditees--it's my belief your guests will thank you--and maybe the kids will actually sit still for longer during dinner. Keep that beautiful brie for the day after when it will be easier to appreciate. My husband grew up assuming that you had to have mashed potatoes and yams or sweet potatoes at T-giving, but I grew up with only yams. Baked whole yams are yummy with butter and salt right out of the oven; they can be kept warm easily and timing isn't critical. Mashed potatoes are an art form and I think they are one of the hardest dishes to make really well and get to the table hot in the chaotic environment of a Thanksgiving kitchen. I also think they lose their loft if they sit around. 1) find a friend with talent to take on the job while you are busy with deglazing and gravy-making and all the last minute stuff or 2) make a twice-cooked mashed potato dish: whip up potatoes with goat cheese, garlic, butter and chives or whatever way ahead of time, put it in a casserole and then stick it in the oven close to dinner time. Stuffing/Dressing: Half of the adults in my husband's family are vegetarians. They won't eat stuffing cooked inside the turkey, but that's my favorite kind, so I make a vegetarian stuffing, stuff the bird, and then have a large casserole of the same dressing cooked separately. I make a chestnut dressing that's vey simple with white and cornmeal bread, onions, celery, apples and herbs: parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme! (I always assumed that Simon and Garfunkle wrote that song during Thanksgiving Break and the first time I ever attempted to cook a turkey I just followed their recipe.) The chestnuts get boiled or roasted and peeled a day or two ahead of time, so sauteing and assembling the dressing is pretty easy. As for gravy, my husband makes what is called a Quick Brown Sauce, which I believe came from an old James Beard recipe. Days ahead he cooks down a savory brew of red wine, veal stock, shallots, thyme, butter and then a little flour. That gets put in a jar. While the turkey cooks, the neck, gizzard, onion, parsley, gets simmered into a stock. That deglazes the pan after the bird is out, and then the brown sauce is added in the same roasting pan until the gravy is as we like it. It packs a huge amount of flavor and you can control the amount of thickening really easily that way. There seem to be five universal disagreements; anyone who can find solutions to them will have a great thanksgiving. You can compromise or overrule the offenders or commit murder. 1) The turkey should be cooked so that the breast meat remains moist and juicy OR so that the dark meat is tender and falls off the bone 2) Gravy should be delicate, meaty and relatively thin with only a very modest amount of flour and no dairy products OR thick and creamy 3) Brussel sprouts are disgusting OR no, they're actually good! 4) Marshmallows have no place at the dinner table OR, aww, but that's how my mother made it 5) Cranberries should be prepared raw so they are crunchy and tart OR cooked to death with ten pounds of sugar and then molded in the shape of the Taj Mahal. Confidential to Icanmakeit: Whizzed Giblets? But I'm usually too tired after a big dinner like this.

Here in the East Bay the typical platter usually has cilantro, thai basil, sliced jalapenos, cut limes and bean sprouts and there is always a bottle of Sriracha on the table. I make a sort of unorthodox or faux pho, using oxtails as my stock base, along with lemongrass, etc. I like to add chopped cilantro a few minutes before serving and then have the thai basil as a garnish. I would be interested in other ideas for a more classis stock perhaps. From a casual glance at some other threads, a lot of people like The Vietnamese Table book. I've never used it...does anyone like it for pho recipes? I disqualify pho restaurants if the broth is too sweet or too salty. That said, I would be happy with a bowl of pho for breakfast, lunch or dinner. For pho phreaks www.phofever.com has fun stuff on it, including some background on the history of pho, T-shirts, etc.

A Votre Sante!

Wonderful thread! Several posters mentioned Sarde en Saor. Earlier this month I was in Venice and flipped for this, ordering it every time I saw it on a menu. I also had a very exotic en saor of those tiny crabs or "moeche" (sp?) one night. The dish varied, and sometimes it was clear that the sardines had been floured and sauteed before marinating. Another time the sardines appeared to have been uncoated. Both were great. I would like some recipes, or at least just an elaboration of approx quantities and technique from anyone. The bones were left in (at least I think so), so I assume smallish sardines are called for. Some fish-mongers here in Northern CA are starting to carry fresh sardines now, so the rest of the ingredients should be easy. Feel free to jump in w/recipe ideas. Thanks, I can't wait to do this. I was surprised to see bergamot make an appearance on this thread. I had no idea that they are grown in southern Italy. If you like that flavor here is a suggested use. We can usually find Bergamot once a year, for only a few weeks, some time around late December/new years. My husband and I invented a very nice, albeit intense drink called the Bergamotini. It's really a Leap Year cocktail from the Savoy London (per Gary Regan) with a simple substitution of bergamot for lemon: 2 oz gin (we prefer simple Bombay--not saphire) 1/2 oz Grand Marnier 1/2 oz sweet vermouth 1/4 oz fresh bergamot juice 1 bergamot twist Shake and strain, add twist. Bottoms Up. And you will be.

For many years my husband and I made Lemon Curd for gifts. It's very easy to make and keeps well. Some people were crazy for it and begged for another jar a week later. Others (mostly relatives) looked crestfallen when they received it a second year. It was very good, but I burned out on it and now don't really care for it much. Besides, I think it was just an excuse for showing off our own cool labels bearing a cartoon of our Australian Shepherd. Our brand was called "Bossy Aussie." Before that we made seasoned vinegars with different herbs. Pathetic confession: one year (and this is a low point as far as inspiration goes) we bought a giant quantity of expensive olive oil and decanted it into smaller bottles for gifts. We probably had the nerve to slap our own labels on, too. Actually great olive oil is a gift I would always be happy to get. Most dreaded homemade gift: an orange stuck with cloves. Only appropriate if it comes from someone under the age of four. And even then it's a puzzle. Grown-ups who make them are scary. Favorite gift: my father-in-law's home cured olives. Most surprising gift that seemed inane but turned out to be useful: pine cones waxed and wicked or somehow treated for use as wood fire starters. I have a feeling it was a lot of work; my in-laws only did that once. Gift no one's ever given me that I would love to receive: really great bitter marmalade. Fine cut, a bit on the soupy side, clear, not cloudy. Love that story upthread about the sister-in-law and the sexy crocheted shopping bag.

Sounds yummy, Dave! Our Porto was not expensive; depending on the venue we paid anywhere from 3 to 4.5 euros per glass (awful exchange rate now.) What struck me was that everywhere we ordered it the taste was exactly the same, as if there was some standard tawny port served as an aperitif. Peter, I didn't realize that the French are more likely to drink port the way I had it--interesting. BevMo, by the way, is Beverages & More, a giant warehouse chain. I'm in Northern CA--dunno how widespread that operation is, but the prices are good for most of the standard liquors, beers and wines. Oh, and if taking a bath in pastis is your idea of heaven, you and my husband can soap eachother up to your hearts' content. I'll be watching the sunset here on Earth. To me, Pernod and Pastis are Klingon drinks, best sipped with an appetizer of live eels.

I'm not a port drinker and know close to zero about Port. In Provence, while my husband was practically taking a bath in Pastis, my mother and I started ordering Porto after a waiter suggested it. It was served chilled in lovely little glasses and it was perfect for those warm evenings. My husband claims he saw the bottle, and that it was tawny port. We ordered it in several towns and it always tasted exactly the same. Of course immediately upon getting home I went to BevMo thinking to duplicate the experience. Hundreds of bottles of Porto and not a clue what to buy. What was I thinking? More important, what was I drinking? Is there some standard Porto served as an aperitif in the south of France? Help me, I miss my dusty ochre violet hour!

Thanks Lior, Pransantrin and others who have expressed such tolerance and generosity toward their guests, and for pointing out that allergies, and some other food preferences can be worked around without feelings of hostility. Surely those of us who enjoy food enough to belong to eG have a repertoire of good dishes that can accomodate a lot of different tastes/restrictions. It's a balancing act between the host and the guests; hosts should inquire ahead and be flexible, and guests should take some responsibility for their own limitations by giving the host good warning, being appreciative, arriving with a dish of their own to share or expecting to eat whatever they can and have a good time. When those unusual situations arise, if there is a misunderstanding or if a guest is rude, you just have to laugh it off and not invite them back. I feel sorry for those people who have lots of strange food hang-ups that are neither dietary restrictions, allergies nor philosphically or culturally based. There are people who, for whatever reasons, simply don't enjoy food. We have all known someone like that; someone who fusses and picks over stuff, who worries all the time about what they will be able to eat, who obsesses over ingredients, and who ultimately ends up eating food that isn't very appetizing, as if it was medicine, or some kind of job. That's sad, but it isn't something to be mean about. As for you Jensen, thanks for the compliment--I tried to convince myself that naughtiness was a sign of smarts when my kid was young! I'm just witchy Aunt Katie. Those boys probably think I'm a dope. Doesn't she KNOW we hate nuts?

Your solution sounds energetic and delicious. I would have definitely wanted both the gratin and the oven chips if I was there. I don't think I have the stamina for making an extra dish. FYI, speaking of dairy free potatoes (and I apologize for veering off topic) I used to adore Potatoes Anna made with copious amounts of butter until I needed to reduce the cholesterol in my diet. The September issue of Bon Apetit has a good substitute. Its a Gordon Ramsay recipe for Potato-Onion Gratin that uses olive oil instead and it's very good. Speaking of Gordon Ramsay, is there an unnatural fascination with him on eG? No other chef, with the exception of Anthony Bourdain, seems to get more thread time. I think GR is very strange. But this potato dish is nice.

I agree that the reason for the event is primary. If the birthday girl's fave is stir-fry prawns you might suggest your vegan girlfriend bring an Asian-style salad to go with and she will have a fine meal with rice and her own salad. Most picky-eaters have learned to adjust (okay, let's hope the grown-up ones have) and will help you out. If the menu is the main event they can be forewarned or not invited. If I have a menu I'm excited about and find a guest won't be able to eat it, I try to shift gears and take it as a challenge. Allergy to wheat? Make a curry over rice. I find I am happier adjusting the menu rather than the dish. Vegetarian relatives? Kids who only eat white food? I had both, and learned how to make a nice crunchy mac & cheese, veggies on the side. Don't like that crunchy top? Good, more for me and Dad. To my chagrin, I discovered my 3-yr old daughter liked expensive cheeses--as long as they were white, like brie. When red sauce became acceptable I began to love lasagne. Then one day lo & behold the lasagne acquired a layer of spinach or artichokes and that passed the test. The kid who ate only white bread, noodles and rice for four years now eats the brie on baguette AND the homemade tomato soup with chive garnish--and everything else. I have to say that the no-carb crowd would have a hard time at my house, but for my one dear friend who does that I've learned that soups with a rich stock and lots of veggies work best because I can make the rice or noodles separately and add them at the end--or not. I prefer that technique anyway, since the starch elements don't get overcooked or soggy. The biggest void in my repertoire is vegetarian soups, since I can't resist a good stock made from chicken feet, a carcass and bones. Before I had a kid I watched my sister-in-law in horror as she made a cheese sandwich for her oldest boy. He wouldn't eat it, so she ate it. He said he would eat pb & j, so she made that. He wouldn't eat it, so it was tossed. Then she made a third sandwich which he also claimed he would eat. Didn't. Mind you this took place over an hour's time. I made a silent vow that if ever had a child I would never EVER fall prey to this kind of humiliation. Ah, so easy to say! We had our low moments, but I rarely made alternative meals and I didn't require her to eat; I did try to accomodate her most of the time and made do with good food that wasn't esoteric or terribly adventurous for a few years. The nephew who took such advantage of his mother now owns a restaurant and is a voracious and adventurous eater. He is completely self-involved but is also charming and sweet. Go figure. One compromise I won't make for anyone: brownies without nuts. I have three nephews (brothers) who all refuse to eat nuts, and only because the older one started it; none are allergic. I don't often make brownies for family gatherings, but on those rare occasions I always put lots of nuts in and take a disgusting amount of pleasure in the fact that these boys all say, "Oh, I don't like nuts." As if I didn't know.

What about "build your own" for the tea sandwiches? You could offer butter, jam, cream cheese, walnuts, lox, thinly sliced dill pickles, cucumber and tomato slices, chopped black olives, chopped chives and scallions, etc. And then there's watercress--just for a sociology experiment. On second thought it's possible this hands-on approach is counterproductive if you are after propriety and etiquette. An interesting bread alternative is that swirled pumpernickel & white bread (I can't remember what it's called) but it looks fun and fancy and often prompts discussion amongst kids who haven't seen it. (That would be nice w/chicken salad or egg salad--yum!) My daughter was really into the cream cheese and olive combo, and I think she even tolerated tomato and scallions on it. I've always been surprised by the number of kids who like olives--maybe it's the salt--but haven't put cream cheese and olives together. Good on white bread, excellent on a fresh bagel. I can't look at a can of chopped black olives without thinking about school lunches. Sick as it may be, I always thought that tinny taste of the can was integral to that sandwich. I tried using "real" olives but it never tasted quite right. Other sandwich ideas: thinly sliced cheddar and apples, cheese and pickles, date-nut bread with cream cheese, chicken salad w/walnuts. Oops--make sure the kids know there are nuts if you use them. Otherwise tea will be a lawsuit waiting to happen. Maybe just go with the olives.

Alle Testiere I need to correct an error in my review. My nephew was with us for dinner, so that makes four people. 230 Euros sounds a little less scary divided by four. And he's young and eats a huge amount. He ordered oysters in addition to an antipasto, but I can't remember what he ate.

We spent the evening of the French quarterfinal win in a "big screen" restaurant in Bormes-les-Mimosas on the Med coast. Halfway through our meal we heard a spontaneous and reverant burst of song from a large private party in another room--you guessed it, the Marseillaise. It was like being in a movie! The game was beginning. My mother, who of course identifies a lot more with Casablanca than she does with rugby, was brought to tears, which was hysterically funny. We had wanted to order "muscles" but the restaurant across the street that served them had a power failure. So instead we were treated to a live performance of national pride. Very moving! Your post is great-- I will forward it to my daughter who plays club rugby. The confit part may be a stumbling block for her but the rest of the jokes could probably be understood by people whose culinary thrills--so i'm told--include drinking beer out of a shoe if you don't know all the words to the rugby songs. For those of you in France, I'm sorry for your loss.

My understanding is that bulgur is toasted cracked wheat. My husband uses cracked wheat once in a while when baking bread, soaking it first. I don't know how the toasting affects cooking time, but it definitely gives it a yummy flavor. Bulgur is usually specified for tabbouli, rarely cracked wheat. I make tabbouli by pouring the hot water over the bulgur, and that's a different process than just cooking bulgur. I guess cracked wheat can vary in size, just like steel cut oats can vary. We have bought our bulgur in bulk from the same source for years, but if the crack was larger I guess the cooking time would need adjustment and so would the ratio of grain to water. I cook my basmati rice the same way as below, with a 2/1 ratio. I use a small saucepan w/ relatively high sides. Melt a small pat of butter (olive oil would work, I'm sure) and sautee 1 cup bulgur with a little salt over a moderate flame. Stir for a few minutes til it starts to smell toasty. Add 2 cups water, raise the heat til it comes to a good simmer, cover, then lower the heat to very low or so the bulgur is simmering gently. Cook 12-15 minutes without stirring or til all water is absorbed and the bottom is just starting to stick. Let sit another few minutes covered (left-over steam will unstick the bulgur if you have cooked it a bit too long) then fluff with a fork. I don't see why the addition of onion, sauteed a few minutes before adding the bulgur wouldn't be nice. If you were adding lentils to the same pot I guess that would change everything a lot. I would be inclined to cook my lentils separately. My husband recently cooked bulgur and I noticed he had turned the flame down so low that it wasn't even simmering. He was expecting it to take 20 minutes. His bulgur does frequently come out wet or gummy and now I know why.

Ae Oche Zattere Ponte Lungo Dorsoduro Il Refolo Campiello del Piovan 1459 Santa Croce Let me start my saying that my standards for pizza are disgustingly high because we've been making our own pizza about every other week for years, and thanks to some great suggestions on a pizza thread here we are closing in on that ideal crispy thin crust. Lacking that wood-fire taste we're doing as best we can. So. I would say that at least 75% of all pizzas I had growing up in New York were better than Ae Oche. It's popular, I'll say that, mostly with the students in the Dorsoduro. The pizza was just plain bad. Soggy. Il Refolo was better, and the little square by the canal was a pleasant place for lunch. The salad was run-of-the-mill. We chose a pizza with radicchio and buffalo mozz. Their technique was interesting--the shredded radicchio and the buff. went on after the pizza was done, so they were uncooked. Strange, but interesting. The crust was mostly crisp, and it was cooked well and was pretty tasty. Not great, but far better than Ae Oche. Maybe Venice just isn't a pizza town. I would have thought to see more seafood on pizza--like vongole or cozze pizza, but didn't see any.

Ai Quattro Ferri Calle Lunga S. Barnaba 2754a Dorsoduro I would not recommend this restaurant. It was a short walk from our hotel, and by the end of our trip my mother, who is 89, was really tired, so we didn't want to stray far in the evenings. I had the verdura mista, and it was pretty good. The three of us shared a large branzino. They brought us the fish to approve and it did look very nice and fresh. Then they brought it out for us right after it was grilled, and it still looked good. Then, before I could say anything, they whisked it away. Ten minutes later it came back, looking like a big mess and no longer hot. For us stupid Americans they deboned and beheaded the fish. They weren't very artful about it and, to add insult to injury, they overcooked it as well. I saw an Italian table served a fish with its head still on, which is how I would have preferred it. This restaurant does not take credit cards and our fish cost 75 euros, which seemed steep to me for what we got. Dessert was also a mixed bag. It was sweet wine and cookies. The wine was rather nice, but the cookies were lousy.

Da Alberto (address etc upthread) I loved this place. We easily made a reservation the day before for a Friday night dinner, but found ourselves in the neighborhood at lunchtime on thursday, so in we went. Only half the tables were full, but it was early. This restaurant was definitely a great value. My mother had the grilled veggies, and with the exception of the peas, it was totally satisfying. The potatoes were divine--like the frites of my dreams. I wanted more Sarde en Saor, but could only get them as part of the mixed seafood antipasto, so my husband and I shared that. Very very good. The sarde was great, a bit different from the one at Sempione, but equally good. My mother and I both had the special, pasta with red sauce and mussels which was terrific. The sauce was clean and delicate, consisting of fresh halved cherry tomatoes, mussel broth and a little olive oil. The mussels were beautiful, tender, tasty. My mother spent half the trip trying to get "small" pasta instead of spaghetti, like capellini or linguini, and since this was served with a finer pasta resembling spaghettini, she was thrilled. And it was cooked perfectly. My husband, continuing his inkfest, tried the cuttlefish pasta, and it too was great. He spent a certain percentage of the trip with a black tongue. Luckily the goth lip thing fades quickly, since he isn't really the type. The house red at Da Alberto was the best house wine of the trip. I think we had tiramisu for dessert, in our attempt to duplicate the experience at Testiere, but I'm sure no other Tiramisu came close to that. Really lovely restaurant.

Osteria al Ponte "La Patatina" 2741a Calle dei Saoneri San Polo We happened on this little place by accident. We started our day at the mind-blowing fish market (where I got to see those baby crabs live and kicking) and were on our way to the Frari. My mother gets hungry on the early side and as we crossed over the Rio San Polo bridge she declared she needed to eat and there was this Osteria, only one table free. Many of the tables are common family style tables. There were no women inside, and all the men were clearly local working people. By one o'clock the working men were gone and a variety of people started filling tables, most speaking Italian. My mother had spaghetti with clams, which she found very nice, and I had a delicious steamed combo of mussels and clams with a nice broth (not too salty!) My husband had squid w/ink pasta, which was very good, with lots of tender squid, and we shared a vegetable-of-the-day, which was plain pristine spinach, served as usual with cruets of oil and vinegar on the side. They talked my husband into ordering the house tart, made on the premises. It was good, not fantastic. The price was right, food very good, atmosphere great.