vogelap

Actually, it was Saturday, January 14, 2006.

On Friday, January 14, 2006, Milan, Brian, Tracy, Ted, Wendy, and Drew dined at the best restaurant in Cincinnati Ohio, the incomparable Jean-Robert at Pigall's. Our reservations were for 6:00, but we’d decided to meet at 5:30 to have a drink in Pigall’s intimate bar. We perched around the tall table in the corner and enjoyed our drinks (white chocolate martini, bourbon, Pigall’s martini, Rex Hill wine) before Richard Brown, the Maitre d’, led us to our large round table in the center of the restaurant. We were settling into the comfortable seats when a complimentary bottle of champaigne appeared and was poured. Quickly glancing at the menus, we decided to endulge in the GOURMAND menu along with paired wines. Tammy, our super-fun and friendly server, collected the menus and was off, pausing only to re-fill our glasses. Amuse bouce: A tiny square white plate with four little bites: capers stuffed with egg on salmon mousse; a slice of potato with a nice sauce; and more. The first course was Jonah Crab Salad with Fondue and Sorbet of Bell Pepper, Avocado and Smoked Paprika and was served with a lovely Trimbach Reserve Pinot Gris - Alsace, 2002. The contrast of flavors, temperatures, and textures in this dish is amazing. The paprika adds the perfect spicy background note and the cold bell pepper sorbet compliments the avocado and crab nicely. The second course, a special for us, was Lobster Medallions with Watercress Salad and Roasted Mango. An amazing array of flavors in these small bites. The lobster was expertly cooked. Next came Seared Foie Gras and Ravioli with Pumpkin, Fall Chutney, Duck Prosciutto, Duck Glasse served with Chateau de Monfort - Vouvray, 2004. These were delicious and especially fun for Drew — because making the ravioli isn’t the most enjoyable job in the kitchen, Drew (as volunteer) gets to make a fair amount of them when working. It was delightful to eat, even after preparing tons of them! The fall chutney was wonderfully flavored, and the slab of foie gras was generous and perfectly prepared. Oh, how we love foie gras! Another special dish, one perfectly seared diver scallop atop julienned ginger and a citrus sauce. This dish shows a confident, mature kitchen. The scallop was perfectly prepared — just a bit translucent in the center — and not ‘fussed with’ too much. Next came Sea Bass with Walnut and Truffle Crust, Creamy Brussel Sprouts with Roquefort, Roasted Apple, served with a wonderful Jean Garaudet Monthelie - Pommard, 2002. It was dressed tableside with a most fragrant Truffle Sauce. When each plate was set in front of us, we just sat, breathing in the earthy, heady scent of truffles. This was wonderful, one of the highlights of the evening to be sure. Richard Brown, noticing that we were just smelling and not eating, stopped by to tell us about his next invention which will be perfume and cologne that smell like truffels and bourdeaux, and other culinary-related scents. He’ll make a million dollars! After a short (and needed!) rest, we were served a perfectly prepared Venison Chop with Pomegranate Sauce, Wild Mushroom Quinoa, Corn Flan and Root Vegetable Puree with Horseradish and Chateau de Pibarnon - Bandol, 2000. The venison was so tender and not at all gamey. The chop was cut into perfect slices and fanned on the plate, dressed tableside with the pomegranate sauce. Tammy asked me if we could possibly handle a cheese course. Having had the cheese course from Pigall’s before (and wanted our other diners to experience it as well), we said yes. Shortly, we were served individual plates of three or four cheeses each, and a large plates with generous slices of four additional cheeses. Cheeses included goat, sheep, camembert, blue, and others. The Fonseca Bin 27 was an excellent companion. Our dessert course was 5 small desserts on one plate… Raspberry sorbet, pumpkin cake, chocolate bisque, creme brulee with fresh berries on the bottom, and a pecan mousse. After coffee, we asked Richard Brown if it would be okay to go back to the kitchen. He said that Chef would be “incensed” if we did not, so Tammy escorted us back into the kitchen to a warm reception from Chef (who received grateful kisses from all the ladies). We chatted a bit with the rest of the guys in the kitchen before going back to our table to settle up and say our goodbyes, around 10:30. It was an astounding meal, and our first-timer friends were suitably blown away.

I missed this sentence the first time around... I'm trolling some old topics today and saw it. I'm sure you weren't implying anything, but I am certainly not stageing there 'just to get a better meal'. Even if the kitchen never did anything special for me when I dine there, I'm still benefitting tremendously by the experience of rubbing elbows with a professional kitchen. I know you know that my motives for volunteering there are pure. Just thought I should clarify.

When I worked at the restaurant last night, I dispatched 75 live lobsters. Of course I thought about what I was doing, but it didn't cause a problem for me. The lobsters were killed very quickly (put head-first into boiling water) and were being served to diners who appreciated them very much. Pretty good 'end' for a bug, if you ask me.

Thanks to ronnie_suburban for faxing the article to me. Thanks to dropkickjeffy for writing it in the first place! It was quite entertaining and I enjoyed reading it.

Oh, I'd love to read the article by Jeff Ruby... Is there some way to get a copy of it, Jeff? I'd be very happy to elaborate on why you might want to discuss with MichaelB before you visit Jean-Robert at Pigall's... So, MichaelB... WAS there anything else wrong in my report? Nice working with you this evening, by the way. And, I forgot to pick up your card. Perhaps you could PM me with the info? -Drew V www.drewvogel.com

Wow. NO replies?

<center><img src="http://www.drewvogel.com/images/pigalls3.jpg"></center> As reported on <a href="http://www.drewvogel.com/index.php/2005/06/06/dinner-at-jean-robert-at-pigalls-saturday-may-29-2005/" target="_blank">my website</a>... On Saturday, May 29, 2005, Wendy & I dined at <a href="http://www.jean-robertatpigalls.com" target="_blank">Jean-Robert at Pigall's</a> in downtown Cincinnati Ohio. Jean-Robert at Pigall's innovative three-course prix fixe menu features a delectable array of appetizers, entrees, and desserts accompanied by an extensive wine list. A five-course degustation menu is also offered and wine pairings, suggested by the sommelier, are available for all menu selections. Wendy & I discussed the menu options and decided that we would both order the five course degustation menu with wines. Since I am familiar with the restaurant both from eating there in the past and more recently from volunteering there, I had extremely high expectations for the meal. I must report that what we received was nothing at all what we expected -- in the very best way. Here's how the experience unfolded... After arriving at the restaurant, we stopped into the kitchen to say hello to everyone since it was "half-time", the period of relative quiet between the first and second seating of the evening and we knew that the guys would be more accessible. When we walked in, we observed that Chef was in conversation with a few of the guys, so we waved and moved back out to the dining room. We were just settling into our comfortable seats in a banquette at the rear of the restaurant when a bottle of lovely Champagne was delivered compliments of the Chef. We placed our order for the five course menu and Tammy, our energetic & personable server, brought to the table the menu placard & stand indicating the five courses and pairings that we could anticipate. As we read it with excitement, Wendy observed that this on-table menu was probably hard-won knowledge that reduced the number of questions from guests to the staff during the meal. Tammy came back a few minutes later with our amuse-bouche. As she delivered it, she said, "Apparently, Chef is taking you off the degustation menu because I've never seen this dish before. Is it okay with you if he does that?". Delighted, we said yes (as if we could possibly say no to being taken on the chef's fancy)! <strong>A couple quick notes</strong>: We did not do a good job of keeping track of the wines that were poured with each course, but we've listed them where we can. Also, the designation "<strong>Menu</strong>" indicates that the item was off the five-course degustation menu, though some of the items were modified versions of what appeared on that menu. The amuse-bouche was Oyster with Avocado Cream & Chantilly Cream served in what resembled a white ceramic shot glass mounded with white cream. There were three distinct layers to this dish -- the smooth avocado cream at the bottom, a couple of cold, briny oysters in their liquor, and a mound of chantilly cream on top. Tuna Nicoise with Monkfish Liver & Truffle Cream -- glistening ruby-colored cubes of tuna with a disk of monkfish liver on the top and the bottom, topped with a quenelle of amazing truffle cream and a generous slice of truffle on top. Warm Jonah Crab Salad with Asparagus Sorbet & French Asparagus -- when the asparagus sorbet was delivered, I saw Wendy's eyebrow go up doubtfully. She didn't expect it to be as delicious as it was. This dish, with the wonderful fresh taste of the jonah crab and the creamy cool asparagus sorbet, was one of the highlights of the evening. Rock Shrimp Open Ravioli, Blood Orange Sauce -- in the kitchen, Matt is always seems to be making pastas out of unusual ingredients. This rock shrimp ravioli was one such unusual pasta, and it was a subtly-flavored, exciting dish. The blood orange sauce and chips of dried blood orange rind were extremely flavorful. <strong>Menu</strong>: Sauteed Langoustine with Lemon & Hazelnut Dressing, Asparagus & Endive Salad -- another highlight. This perfectly prepared langoustine was delicious and the lemon & hazelnut dressing was a revelation in depth of flavor. This dish is an example of a confident, mature kitchen. <strong>Menu</strong>: Foie Gras with Smoked Black Pepper & Strawberry Compote, Baby Onion Tart, Duck & Strawberry Demi-Glace -- Oh boy, Wendy & I love foie gras. This dish was presented on a puff pastry tart with caramelized baby onions. A generous slice of foie gras was seared and placed on top. The duck & strawberry demi-glace was a deviation from the menu, but was a wonderfully-flavored addition. Wine: Baumard Coteaux du Layon, 2002 The next course was a giant Scallop, perfectly cooked and translucent in the center, with Morel Cream & Dandelion Salad and a Citrus Reduction. <strong>Menu</strong>: Black Sea Bass, Beaujolais Reduction, Beet Confit, Shiitake Mushrooms and Pea Puree -- the presentation on this dish was outstanding. The beet confit were gorgeous and the sea bass was outstanding. The beaujolais reduction proves yet again that the guys in the kitchen know their stuff. Wine: Jean-Claude Lapalu Brouilly Cuvee Vieilles Vignes, 2003 <strong>Menu</strong>: Spring Lamb with Herb Sauce, Marmalade of Shallot, Gateau of Carrot, Potatoes, and Cepes Mushrooms -- a few medium-rare slices of gorgeous lamb loin, a quenelle of roasted shallots (very delicious), the herbed demi-glace, and the beautiful gateau of carrot made this a wonderful springtime dish. Wine: Cave de Tain Crozes-Hermitage, 2001 At this point, Tammy told us that the sous chef, Todd, had asked if we had room for a cheese course. Undaunted (we're <strong>dedicated</strong> foodies) we said yes, though I was more enthusiastic than Wendy at this point (she's still training up). Soon, the Cheese course was delivered with an ounce or two each of Gouda, Goat, Camembert, Blue, and one other. Served with a delicious Tawny Port. As a result of this delicious course, Wendy & I decided that we like cheese courses and included one in a <a href="http://www.drewvogel.com/index.php/2005/06/05/mas-vino-dinner-saturday-june-4-2005/">recent meal</a> we hosted at our house. Tammy indicated that we were heading into dessert. Wendy sighed in relief since she was getting a bit full. Her eyes widened when the dessert plate came out -- with <em><strong>five</strong></em> small desserts on it... <strong>Menu</strong>: Chocolate Mousse, Creme Brulee with Raspberries, Rhubarb Frangipan with Rhubarb Honey Compote & Goat Cheese Yogurt Ice Cream, Coconut Ice Cream, and Chocolate Bisque. After our meal, we stopped back into the kitchen to greet the guys and to offer our gratitude for their generosity. Chef was more relaxed and came over immediately to meet Wendy (and to receive a kiss from her -- he's no fool!) and to genuinely inquire as to our enjoyment of the evening. He was sincerely interested in hearing our assessment. We went around and talked with each of the guys in the kitchen. Bob, Todd, and Matt all came over and met Wendy, who was a bit overwhelmed by everything. We were humbled, honored, and appreciative of the outstanding treatment we received during our 4 hour meal at the restaurant on that evening. It exceeded our expectations by miles and miles. That meal stands in our memories as one of the best we've ever eaten.

Last night (Saturday, June 4, 2005) was the dinner I'd been planning for a while. The menu changed considerably since I posted the first cut above. I appreciate everyone's assistance with this menu, and am anxious to hear your thoughts on what we had. Here's what we ended up with: * Boursin Stuffed Mushrooms with Panko Peach Bellini * Foie Gras & Mushroom Duxelle with Shiraz & Cabernet Reduction Lunu di Luna Chardonnay Pinot Grigio Champagne * Garlic Veloute with Croutons & Prosciutto Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc/Viognier, 2003 * Red Snapper Gravlax with Cucumber & Tomato Adelsheim Vineyard Oregon Pinot Gris, 2003 * Lemon Sorbet -- Intermezzo * Loin of Spring Lamb in Provence Crust with Dijon Mustard Roasted Garlic and White Bean Puree Spring Asparagus Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon, California, 2003 * Cheese Course: - Holland Smoked Gouda - 'Laughing Cow' Swiss - French Munster Haxaire - French Four Pepper Goat Cheese - Danish Blue * Chocolate Chestnut Cake with Melba Sauce Key Lime Pie Chocolate Raspberry Truffle Saracco Moscato D'Asti, 2003

In my ITALIAN CUISINE class, we're using Classical and Contemporary Italian Cookery for Professionals by Bruno H. Ellmer. It's a thick book, full of recipes. It seems to be a very good collection on Italian food. The recipes aren't quite as well written as, say, Gisslen's, but they're more than passable if you read them a time or two before digging in to your mise.

I've got two questions... * Shelled or unshelled peanuts? I ASSUME shelled (not just because unshelled wouldn't fit down the neck of the bottle), but want to be clear. * Does one eat the peanuts at the bottom?

Of course you can do the pea puree. When I saw the first post of the thread this morning, I was wondering if that bulb was going to light downthread. It's SPRING! Do the peas. ← Hi Michael! After tasting the pea pureee at the event, I've pretty much decided that the taste and color are just right for the recipe, and that's what I'll do. It was nice to see you at the event, Michael! I think I still owe you a drink, don't I?

All excellent suggestions. Everyone has been most helpful! Thanks for the soup recipe. I may swap that in! I like the way that sounds. Also, back to the puree question... What are your (all of you) thoughts about a PEA PUREE with the lamb? Last night, I worked an event at my culinary school and we did a very nice pea puree under our dish that got me thinking.

First off, thanks to EVERYONE who has replied to my request! Your time and thoughts are appreciated! Thanks for your encouraging comments about my menu. I hope it's as good as I imagine it will be! I wouldn't say that the guests are jaded, they're more-informed feeders than a lot of folks; they'll 'get it'! I've decided, based on the advice here, to go with the halibut over the shrimp. I do want to have a puree behind the lamb, so removing it isn't an option. I'll have to think about fava beans... Oh! I like leeks. That would add a very nice element to this dish. I have to say, this has leapt to the forefront of my thinking for the puree. I've also found a version that is much lower in fat than the lima beans (which had some cream in). Oh, I just love goat cheese! I may reduce the amount of it in the bruschetta, but I'd hate to lose it altogether, though I will consider your suggestion as I think about it more. The foie gras is a variation of a delicious dish I've tried at a local restaurant. I'll have to think about losing the puff pastry... The Apple & Chestnut Soup has been a bit contentious. My wife's point is that it's her very favorite soup that I make. Mine is that it is not. seasonal. at. all. I wanted to do a Carrot Soup with Tarragon and Citrus instead, but she said that sounded "gross" (we're working on her adventurous-eating habits). The fact that the Apple Chestnut soup isn't seasonal and sticks out like a sore thumb on this menu does not phase her. I cannot use availabilty of ingredients to get out of this one since we're very fortunate to have a great market near our house where we can get all the ingredients for this soup (despite the season). Darnit. You can be assured that the lamb will be roasted low-n-slow! The lamb will be butterflied and stuffed with a mixture of mint, rosemary, parsley, and garlic. Do you still recommend mint sauce even with the mint inside? I am willing to do it; I just worry about too much mint. Regarding desserts... I am not a chocolate dessert lover; my wife is. I am currently enamored with the pink grapefruit terrine that I saw Jacques Pepin demonstrate, so I wanted to try that, though my plan was to make them QUITE small (more an intermezzo than a true dessert), but I am willing to lose that dessert. The chocolate 'flowers' are simple, attractive, and easy. I think I'll get rid of the terrine... The truffles are to be noshed while we sit around and chat, post meal.

Thanks for the insight. I appreciate your response! Hrm. Celeriac... Hadn't thought of that one. Thanks. Turnips sound like the best call (and are, as you mentioned, classic) for the puree. How would you season it? Yes, tiny portions are the order of the day for this meal... We're putting the admonition to "Pace Yourself" on the top of the invitation. The high fat content is an issue. I love Foie Gras, and so does this particular group. If you don't mind, do you have any suggestions for ways to 'trim the fat' in this menu? I'd like to hear your opinion. Still not certain about the Maltaise either; my wife is intrigued by it. I'd like to switch to your suggestion, bearnaise. We'll see if I get outvoted. The ravioli are also being considered for exclusion... I am sorta leaning toward the halibut over the shrimp because it's a nicer presentation and is also make-ahead. Do you have any suggestions on the ordering of elements? I put the order that I'm considering, but will consider any suggestions.

I am in the process of designing a menu for a dinner party we're throwing for a food writer, another chef, and their spouses. The menu is mostly designed around a bit of a Spring theme, but I've got a question I'd like your help with. Owing to the large number of courses, servings will be quite small. Here's what I've got planned: * Bruschetta with Goat Cheese, Roasted Red Pepper, and Fresh Basil * Foie Gras with Mushroom Duxelle on Puff Pastry with Morel Sauce * Shrimp Cocktail with Serrano-Mint Sauce -*or*- * Halibut with Fennel, Carrots, Lemon, and Garlic * Pecorino Ravioli with Marjoram and Walnuts * Apple and Chestnut Soup with Spiced Cream (not Spring-y, I know, but it's a fav) * Asparagus with Sauce Maltaise * Roast Leg of Lamb With Mint, Garlic, and Lima Bean Puree * Pink Grapefruit Terrine * Chocolate 'flowers' with Almond Pound Cake, White Chocolate Mousse, Fresh Fruit, and Melba Sauce * Raspberry Chocolate Truffles The problem is with the Lima Bean Puree. My wife hates lima beans. I want to do another puree, but am looking for suggestions that will compliment the rest of the menu. Here's the question -- what would be a good substitute puree?

Interestingly, I was looking through the 10th Edition of PRACTICAL COOKERY last night and discovered that they instruct something quite ...different... for spatchcocking. It involved making 'eyes' out of hard-boiled egg whites and gherkins. I am not kidding. There was a small (too small for these old eyes) picture of the result and it ...doesn't ... look ... right. VERY interesting. Anyone with thoughts on this?

I am planning to move some books around... That might give me a good opportunity to count my cookbooks because, well, I'd like to know! I know it's over 100 (like I posted before), but just HOW MUCH over, I don't know.

For Easter, I'll cook for my folks, Wendy's folks & brother, and Wendy at our house. Here's the menu: * Cold Melon Soup * Roast Pork Loin stuffed with Proscuitto & Rosemary * Baby Spinach Salad with Roasted Red Onions, Goat Cheese, Pine Nuts, and Citrus Vinagrette * Asparagus with Hollandaise * Garlic-Lemon Roasted Potatoes with Olives & Feta * Viennese Cherry-Cheese Torte

Thanks, everyone. Please let me know your comments -- this recipe is still under development, so your comments are most welcome. Also, check this link for the revised recipe, since I cannot edit it here.

Hi Pam! Please check your PM -- I've sent it to you as you requested!

We hosted my parents for Christmas eve dinner at our house. My wife, Wendy, set and decorated a beautiful table, glittering with crystal and candles, and I created the menu and prepared the food. Here's what we had: Apple and Chestnut Soup with Spiced Cream Spinach, Blue Cheese, and Strawberry Salad with Apple Cider Viniagrette (my mom brought this) Garlic-Stuffed Fillet of Beef over Crispy Potato 'Sandwich' with Classic Bordelaise & Maytag Sabayon Milk Chocolate Mousse Cake with Hazelnut Crunch Crust (cover recipe from a recent edition of Bon App, I think) It was very nice! We had paired wines with each course, but I don't recall those at the moment. We did have a nice Moscato with the dessert...

I've got over 100 at this point. "No better bookends than two walls..."

I believe you can cook four star at home. No problems.

So, tell us about the desserts he prepared for you!