tan319

Hi, everyone. My missus might be going to school in Austin and I'm scoping out the fine-ish type dining scene in Austin for possible work. I'm a pastry chef in Abq., NM at the moment. Is there a Coyote Cafe there? Any info will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Don't mistake Steves passion for annoyance ( although it can make you feel a little 'zinged' at times.). You can take and apply just about anything from anyone and work it into your repetoire if you want A quick confit of berries, ala Balaguer or Adria comes to mind. Gourmets or Non- Gourmets can enjoy that.

I'm writing this quick before I head to work. I received this e-mail this morning from chipsbooks.com. Pricey but I'm sure worth it. Art of Ice Cream and Sorbets—l'Art de la Glace et des Sorbets by Emmanuel Ryon, Joël Bellouet and Jean-Michel Perruchon French Edition with separate English Translation volume (2-volume set): http://www.chipsbooks.com/artglace.htm I think it covers savory ideas too.

Ahhhh, Steve Michael A breath of fresh air... Thought provoking, as usual. Really good to read you again. And thanks for inspiring me ( and I'm sure the others), again.

I was wondering what makes the vanilla gelee ORANGE in color Jason P.S. - Chef Yosses, I hear that they are changing the name of the restaurant and was wondering if you would indulge us on what you think it should be called. Thanks Jason, don't know if you noticed in the gelee recipe, but it has orange zest in it

Thanks for posting the link to that site, loufood. Chef Yosses menu reads beautifully. Really interesting items. That's a vanilla gelee under and around the cake with the 12 bean ice cream. Man, I miss NYC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Firstly, let me thank you for taking the time to address the situation, very, very kind of you. So, 325 for 10 minutes, that helps a bunch. And I wasn't wrong about wanting to feel the top being done, correct? As I said before, it felt a bit soft at first. The altitude thing was a bit of a cop out, I will readily admit. It's just that I'm a pretty good cook, and this ( and other ) molten cake recipes have seriously kicked my ass a few times and left me wondering... Anyways, will be trying your advice soon. And again, can't thank you enough for your help, advice and consideration! All the best to you, sir!

I was using Cocoa Noel, 30%, white pistoles. The cake is actually nice, lot's of vanilla flavour. I was thinking of serving it as a 'Black 'n' White' plate, with white chocolate mousse on the chocolate cake, and a deep chocolate creme on the vanilla white choc cake, with a nice acidic sauce, maybe passion fruit, to cut through.

Ummm, Perhaps I didn't phrase it correctly. I meant that I'm surprised that there are a lot of Slate web mag readers on here, which I suppose I shouldn't be. And, that the story had been threaded ( correct phrase?) once, then twice, then thrice, all by diferent people. Thought maybe someone might have caught it by the second time. No biggie.

Wow, there sure are a lot of Slate reading, double or even triple posters here... Oh well, all the better to get the El Bulli 'playas and haytas' to mix it up some more.

That's pretty amazing about the Bellagio's output, especially considering the scratch aspect of the preparations. But I wouldn't really consider less from someone like Phillipe. You've got some hard thinking to do there, Neil. If you're into the production aspects of the field, can't think of much better place to do it. Do they have great equipment? I can't imagine them being shorted on anything with that kind of an operation. All the best to you and best of luck, too!

How about a batch of ice cream with the soft torrone folded in? That would make me smile!

In the newest issue of Food Arts, there is a recipe for Bill Yosses Vanilla cake, which is really a vanilla cake with white chocolate in the batter as well as an flowing white choc center. I tried making this cake today, as laid out in the mag as well as with variations ( using a white chocolate ganache 'plug') as well as using the 1/2 inch-ish piece of white choc as in the recipe. The recipe seems to follow the rules of the molten chocolate cake. White chocolate and butter melted together over a bain. Sifted flour, yolks and vanilla seed are stirred into that mixture and reserved. Meanwhile, a meringue is prepared using the same amount of whites as yolks. Folded into the white chocolate mixture and rested for 24 hours. 24 hours later, in a 325 degree oven, as specified, after buttering 4 oz. aluminum utility cups and filling them with the batter, with the white chocolate set in the center , on a baking sheet, the cake is baked until risen and golden. Onto the problems I had. Btw, the baking part of the recipe was given for a convection oven, which is what I used. At 325, the cake took a long time to get color. At 8 minutes, it had some color but the top felt very fragile, like it would collapse upon cooling. Like a souffle. Not that it rose that hig or anything. I let it cool a bit and tried to unmold it. It stuck at first. I let it cool longer. It never came out clean and there was no liquid center. Next, I raised the oven temp by 50 degrees, baked less time ( but still had to go for a bit of a firmer top). still no liquidish center, still stuck to the top of the mold as well as the side, and I greased well. Next, I buttered AND floured the mold, as well as used the white chocolate ganache I had prepared, that on the advice of a pastry chef friend of mine, I added an ounce of cocoa butter to to stabilize the ganache a bit ( I was worried about it breaking and going greasy at temps in the 300+ range) It was a 400 gram choc to 200 gram heavy cream recipe, that I think someone gave me here on the 'gullet, thank you! Anyways, this unmolded the best but still carried over to bake whole. I think the meringue in the batter makes it so light that it's a hard guess as to when it is done. I know Yosses is a great chef, I'm sure the recipe is solid but where do yoy ( if interested) think I'm going wrong? I've always felt that the altitude I'm at screws this particular recipe up, I have to admit I've tried the regular chocolate cakes and have never had an optimal result yet. Even though I haven't tried the ganache load in a bittersweet one yet. So I'm open to any advice, etc. anyone has to offer. Thanks in advance!

Emily Dickenson's ouvre is not my strong suit (as the spelling of ouvre may not be either). Are you saying her point was not to fuck with the taste? Tradition is good enough? If so, I have no argument with that. I just love to see people push the envelope also.

'ya, know, you either like the guy ('s, if you count his brother, Albert) or you don't. I would hardly condemn them for using a stabilizer, which not only is in most of the ice creams, sorbets, high end too, we consume, but the ones you eat in many 4 star restaurants. If you look at the recipes, they're manipulating the ingredient's so slightly, albeit differently, with the addition of things like Agar Agar, gelatine, the chemical ( whose name escapes me at the moment) that they do their caviar with, that it's crazy to act like they're fake flavouring everything. A bit of gelatine and some simple syrup and fruit, or an anglaise in a C02 siphon is really "bending" the rules, man...

Neil, Sorry to be so late in posting but it's never too late to tell someone that they've done fantastic work!!! Your stuff looks incredible! I don't know how much you knew going in but, JESUS! Those guys at FPS sure do some good teaching! I back up Loufoods statement. As someone who's spent a bit of time in France (non food related, but that didn't stop me from tasting and looking), your stuff holds up pretty damn well. Job well done, and I wish you all the luck one can wish in you achieving whatever you set out to do. STUNNING!

I LIKE his (her?) dessert menu! Very cool! Thanks for linking it, alana.

This was very good. You could taste the "layers" in the "soup. First to hit the tongue was a semi sweet taste, followed quickly by a bittersweet cocoa taste, and finished by a very rich milk chocolate taste. Who is the chef and pastry chef at Nomi? Thanks1

Now now, Paul...

Man, I really enjoyed that! Thanks so much for sharing

That's because, even though I love my country, we are SOOOOOO messed up! Just full of hypocrisy. You would think we would have learned something. Why don't we start by not not feeding animals on their own . If we don't eat humans, why should cows eat themselves, albeit in their feed? Just a thought. edited to show this gem from Jasons post above, lest everyone start jumping on me about us already banning the feed practice.

Dejah, I was actually suggestting trying the recipe ahead of time to make sure it tastes ok and to work out any kinks. I also suggest making the brulees the day before so that the flavor develops too. And you have less stress in your cooking day Of course you would torch them just before you serve. As for the stovetop method, heat your cream mix to the boil, yolks ready, add the sugar (I use 3/4s in the cream and use the other 1/4 for my eggs) and whisk a bit right before your cream comes to the boil, then temper the yolks with the cream, and pour back into your pot, keeping the heat very low. Stir slowly across the liquid ( I use a zigzag pattern) and you'll start feeling the liquid thickening. Pull the spoon out and see if the liquid coats the back of the spoon( draw a line with your fingertip acoss the back of the spoon, it should stay clear) You can also use a digital thermometer set at 85c( about 185f) .Take off the heat, strain and pour into your ramakins . They should be in a pan, ready for a bit of water to cook them in. Cook them and let them cool off in the water bath. Then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Hope this helps and good luck!

I \Louisa, I understand where you're coming from. Just that these days perhaps people need to get some revenue whereever they can? And you're totally correct about people investing $ money and still skipping out.

Ok, I went back and looked at my e-mail concerning said stage. It was 600 euro a month for 6 months! Quite a bit less. I apologize for the mistake!

The place I'm talking about was also seeking a 6 month commitment. Perhaps the cash investment would make one less prone to skip out early? I've heard of other places charging too. I think I know of the company you're speaking of, Louisa. French Laundry, some other high end joints also do? That's why the idea of a fee for the place I was speaking of didn't bother me. I'd rather spend 6k to learn from a master and their right hands then pay even more to learn things I would probably never use in my work at a school . Just my opinion...