tan319

Most awesome report!!! Thanks for sharing.

GREAT STUFF!!! I hope you'll be going to P.Herme. BTW, your menu looks nice at S.K.

Thanks for this report, ComeUndone! I've been dying to hear more about delicabar, sounds awesome. I'm awaiting word of a possible trip to France soon, jonesing for it badly!!! Thanks again for the report. Cool pic too.

Wow, K8! Lot's of really good ideas. Are you in a shop or restaurant? really good stuff. Good luck, Zilla! Just go for it.

Yes, the election blues will do that to you. I could hardly stomach going to my restaurant gig, where the owner is such a staunch, cheap assed Republican. I seriously thought about dumping my gig, especially if he gloated about it. He didn't, I didn't. Everywhere I went, I kept on thinking, "I'm probably in the same room with THOSE people, the one's who are proud to have someone representing them who can hardly speak English". Got into an argument with an Albertson's cashier, not really an argument, per se, she asked me if I wanted to donate a buck to diabetes research, I told her I wouldn't be able to afford stuff like that for the next four years. It went on from there. So I empathize, even though that comment about "employees will always bitch and whine about everything" seriously frosted my you know whats until Tuesday's fiasco. I hope you don't get so wound up you turn into the female version of the guy who owns the restaurant I work at. I only bitch about the 'Groundhog Day' like conditions and situations that never change for some strange reason.

I use the Jivara lactee Valrhona 40% and Cocoa Noel 38%, each for different reasons, and I can see where Wendy wouldn't be knock down drag out excited by the Jivara. I dig the caramel notes of the Noel a lot and always find myself salting the Jivara to bring up some notes. I liked the Guittard milk quite a bit and would probably use it if I could get an existing vendor to carry it. I also like the C.Barry milk a lot and would love to try the Papousie.

I made the pistachio ice cream/ morello sorbet mixture today for the almond macarons. I'm probably going to run it as a special this weekend, properly credited, of course. I threw the cheesecake ("our favorite...") on the menu a few weeks back, calling it 'Gateau au Fromage ala Ducasse, with sour cream ice cream and stewed berries. I skip the crust and "crust" it ala minute with Royaltine (Paillete feuilletine) Since cheesecake is not one of my faves to do figured I'd have fun with it.

i was told by my former headchef who worked for the creative team at el bulli in this last season that ferran adria doesn´t read any cookbooks or has a favourite chef or anything else.... This seems a bit weird. In the El Bulli 98/02 book, Adria not only namechecks quite a few chefs whose food him and his team are inspired by, but tells what food is basically a direct cop from, eg: Michel Bras: # 586:berry fruit cheese with junket( + the savory version of this dish.) " first. new machines and techniques are essential and you don´t have to be a trained chef anymore which is, in my opinion, a little bit sad. where is the end of this avantgarde "cooking"? eating gels, airs or even just aromas? having the ultimate experience? time will show us...." Not sure about the trained chef part of this but, Achatz is not only a CIA grad, but certainly put in his time at a few places. A lot of chefs are learning on the run/

there's a thread here called 'Decoding Ferran Adria', the name of the documentary. Still waiting on more info. Check it out.

I've only used baking soda when making Cajeta, which is basically caramelized goats milk. Not quite as thick as pure dulce de leche, and tangier. I do my dulce de leche as I learned from my time in Latino kitchens, which was baking sweetened condensed milk in a bain marie. Now I just boil the cans, which takes less eyeballing and has a better texture, to my eyes ans palate.

Well, hey, I can understand getting rid of someone if they're costing you $$$. That would just seem more of a "fired" situation.

I keep starting and stopping this post, as I'm worried it will open a can of worms, but... When you folks lay off someone, is it a person who already has some issues(lateness, not dependable,etc.?) or is it last one in, first one out? Although I don't own a business, I watch this kind of stuff in the business's I do work at. It all makes me very nervous. Part of the reason I work 2 jobs, even though I hate to. Job PARANOIA. Will I get thrown out the door or not? Are there any alternatives to laying someone off? When someone shows loyalty, caring for the biz and product, and get's laid off, it seems pretty crap. The indie biz thing is already hard to handle. Barely any safety nets in place at all. For example, at the bakery I work part time at, I worked all week with symptoms of the flu, which I finally succumbed to Friday evening, leaving my pastry chef gig at the restaurant early. I still went into the bakery 4:30 am saturday morning , as i knew they had deliveries and I wasn't going to stick it to them, fuck them up for the whole day. But I did see the owner bolangerie guy make a face like i was fucking him over when I told him I had to split as soon as I was finished delivering. Well, when you have the flu, and you can hardly see straight, should you REALLY be trying to operate a 50 qt. hobart, taking responsibility for 100# of crossiant dough that maybe you'll forget to add the purotose to, because you're all screwed up? I think not. He got over it when I stayed an extra 45 minutes to help them get some crap out of the way, but still.... Is it my fault that the place is being staffed by 3 people, baking wise, including me, and theres no provision for people getting sick, or in an accident, family emergency? That's counting on luck, not real solid philosophy. Of course, then I had to go to my own restaurant gig, where I am THE pastry department, because the owner is such a fucking tight republican, who can buy a boat but bitches about paying his people. Who walks in with a Micros invoice for repairs and says, "there goes the months profits"! DUDE, if 945.00 bucks is the months profits, you had better do some revising. Get rid of me, whatever, just shut the fuck up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So, of course the night before was a wipeout and since I left early the night before and didn't get a chance to do some of the stuff, I got to stay for 7 hours and do it all . But do I ever get a thanks from him? You know the answer... I know Mel knows how it feels to get the boot ( from early in this thread, maybe the impetus for going out on her own) and tons of people have here. But what I'm saying is can we ever forget that we were once employees? How hard it is to not only GET a job, for them, but to FIND decent employees to replace them once the money hole gets repaired. There are plenty of people looking for jobs, but how many of them are dependable, solid, you can count on them employees? Mostly just playing devils advocate here but this has some really strong resonance for me, as you can see. PS: Does adding that extra 20 hours a week add even more stress to the decision making process, not to mention health, etc.? All said with respect to all of you who have struck out on your own.

The New York magazine review was pretty kind to Will's desserts. I agree with an above statement, that Chef Goldfarbs rep precedes him, as far as his unusual flavor profiles, etc. are concerned. I thought Gallantes food was going to be more of that kind of vibe. From what I've heard and read, it all sounds terrific, though. If you check out the menu pdf. online, I think there are some desserts on Goldfarbs menu that wouldn't be like walking the plank for those that have issues. Hang in there, Will!

Hi tan319, The "gelee of orange and saffron molded into a panna cotta " sounds very intriguing. How is the gelee incorporated into the dish? a layer of gelee either on top or the bottom of the milk layer? I guess that "catalan style" means infused w/saffron? This dish must look beautfiul too! ← I make the panna cotta in those 4 oz. utility cups and pour the saffron/ orange gelee in the bottom( which becomes the top when you plate it). Let the gelee set up and pour the panna cotta mix(cooled to room temp or a bit colder, but before it gells) in on top. When I plate, I blow torch the cup a bit after it's inverted and usually pop a skewer in the top to let it loose. A few weeks ago I saw a kalamansi gelee topped panna cotta somewhere online, maybe New York magazine? Same kind of look. The catalan style actually describes a flavor profile that's in the Spanish style of creme brulee, which is called catalan creme. It usually involves lemon zest, cinnamon and vanilla, with orange zest thrown in the infusion sometimes. I like it with the orange added.

Great pix and report as usual, John! Awesome stuff. Thanks so much for sharing.

Wow, it's been awhile for this one. Any news on this getting distribution, etc.? Would love to own it on DVD.

Once again, superb photos and a great report! I love how Jordi's food is presented, the little plates, etc. On another note, Doc: Any chance of a report on the Cacoa Sampaka isit? Would love to hear about that.

Woderful report and photos, doc! I always enjoy your photo reports because you can really see how much you and your people enjoy yourselve's. The food looks and sounds amazing. I remember reading in 'A Cooks Tour' about how beautiful Elena Arzak is but your pic really backs it up. You know what kills me? In '96, I was working with a French band, recording an album near Dax (Leon) in France, and the singer kept saying "Ted, we have to take a few days and go to San Sebestian", which was only 70 k away or so. I, like a fool, said nooooooooo, I have to stay and finish this thing (I was producing). Thanks again, great stuff.

CONFESS, MY FRIEND!!! Before it's too late... You see, my wifes mom is visiting, she's a foodie, and my wife wanted to show off all of my gutwrenchingly expensive cookbooks (El Bulli 98/02, Bau, Balaguer, etc.) and I had to show her the Ducasse book. BTW, what is the matter with all of us ? My chef even 'walked around the block' on the matter of getting the SPOON book to his wife!

Is the ing. you're wondering about 'Gellan'? I've seen it mentioned a bunch in articles on WD50, in particular, that Food and Wine article 'Pastry Provocateurs'(SIC?). I've heard rumours that the "papers" that the WD50 guys and Grant Achatz are into use that vegetable starch paper that's used for photographs on B-Day cakes, etc. Would love to hear more about the hot ice cream as it develops!

I do a citrus reduction with saffron for one of my desserts. I also do a gelee of orange and saffron molded into a panna cotta infused catalan style. Love the stuff.

Hi! Ted Here. Nothing like some matramonial mirth, eh?

Hi, Ted's wife here. Just wanted to let you all know that he finally told me he purchased this book 4 MONTHS AFTER THE FACT!!!! That bastard. *insert snarling emoticon*

Just wanted to mention that I saw the Gourmet Issue with the playing cards....Pretty innocent stuff. As someone stated, Keller seemed to use his to to honestly state what was asked on them (not that the others weren't honest) about his brothers, etc. He's in pretty good company. IMO. Nice issue and articles in that Gourmet ish also.