tan319

here's a link to the new Conticini book, 'Sensations Nutella' (which FNAC' search engine has listed as 'Obsessions Nutella'). Thanks to LKL Chu for the heads up!!! Nice pic on the cover http ← Well, I finally got this HAPPENING book!!! A very nice rep in the Netherlands sent it to me, as it seems to go in & out of print ( from what I can understand in French at Amazon.fr, etc.) Many nice recipes, cool mix of store bought items like cookies, garnishes, and of course, Nutella, and recipes for preparations! I'm a happy guy. Just got it today, will post more soon. Maybe it will publish in English soon

A few updates for pros and interested parties. The new FoodArts magazine has an interesting article on a fairly "new" pastry chef to most people, Yvan Lemoine. He's also a "Bar chef" and has started a consulting firm called iFoodstudios ( ifoodstudios.com). He's been on the scene since he was 15 though, as you can read in his bio on the site. As I always say, Food Arts magazine is a great read, a must for any of you working in the biz, and subscriptions are free to industry people. The words on almost everybodys lips in the pastry world right now, at least in the restaurant world, is 'Dessert Bar' or consulting. Read the interviews with these Rising Star pastry chefs and see what they're saying. It's getting to be an economic necessity in the pastry world to diversify and plan for the future. I think it's getting to be pretty clear cut for pastry chefs. Either go to Las Vegas if you're into the show/competition scene/ more classic styles or develop your niche in the restaurant world and spread out. Anyways... Really late on this. Pastry Art & Design demoed a "Frozen Desserts" issue an issue ago and I've been meaning to post on it. It starts publishing in late spring I believe. It's going to be very interesting... Although it was a bit "commercial" for me ( product tie ins a plenty but, that's reality these days, no?) . Two things I'm hoping for. A definitive-ish article on the Pacojet, with people like Sebastian Rouxell, Sam Mason, maybe even Conticini weighing in with recipes, how to use "properly", etc. This would be a great thing to throw to non ice cream store people. Also, an article on Pasteurizers, like the pastochef by Carpigiani. Taylor makes ( or imports) one also. What difference will these not IN- expensive machines ( used in Europe very much) make to ones business? Finally, February /March issue of PA& D with some nice "Signature" desserts from Alex Stupak and Michael Volpe, amongst others. There you go!

ckkgourmet, I think this is a really great post. I submit that sometimes a chefs cuisine is going to rattle one's perception. This hit it on the head for me from your post... " In other words, there is a certain limit imposed by the ephemeral nature of food that makes it hard to go back and judge merit. Was a “bad” dish badly prepared or were we unprepared for it?" With Chefs like Dusfresne, Mason, Liebrandt, even the Adrias, it's not as Black and White, is it? Great stuff!

If you're using a lot of fat in your recipes ( eggs) be careful. I never had a problem with the Paco except when too much fat was used. Takes some getting used too. I'm anxious to hear about the rigged button too. Good Luck.! PS: Even though it contradicts a lot of "mod" recipes, including pacos' own, many don't use stabilizer in them.

the pic in the paper doesn' look that lousy. Bright, yes but...

New York Times Urena review Pretty good two star review from Bruni. Of course, his "buddies" get mentioned... his 'Hesser' like "Mr. Latte" thing really got me... "Me too. But a minor makeover would put me in a major swoon. And it would give me more confidence in the durability of this affair."

This thread was better buried and dead 3 pages back while everyone got wound up about the 'round one. Sorry to all, especially GILT.

Well, you know, you're right. But chefs do get bloody hacking up pigs for different cuts and butchering fish so why not stick your hand thru it's neck out of it's mouth and glamourize it?

Seems appropriate to comment on the website though...Let the guy start "'nother story." ←

It may be NIN but that's a whole 'nother story. I was pointing towards the food pix.

Paul Liebrandts website Looks like there's been some photo updates in the gallery on PL's 'site. Looking good. Wodering if these are some of the dishes people have had at GILT

That white truffle oil sorbet recipe on starchefs is, IMO, seriously off. It could be a case of someone trying to adapt a recipe for home use that won't fly, although it DID use quite a few ing. (like atomised glucose) that you wouldn't necessarily find down the street. If it's separating it's not emulsified correctly. I would use a stabilizer, for sure. Also, like nightscotsman points out, monostearate is used a lot in ice creams and sorbets these days, goumet, fine dining, commercial, whatever. There IS a recipe out of an old Thuries mag, that featured one of my fave pastry (and savory) chefs, Philippe Conticini, where it seems he uses a touch of fromage blanc in his olive oil sorbet. This has been successfully adapted by some other chefs here, I believe. Steve Klc & Michael Laiskonis come to mind. The FB might be what binds it, since it's 0 or close to zero fat. I wouldn't try thawing it and respinning it either. Personally I've never been a big fan of that practice and find it unnecessary IF you use a bit of stabilizer and store at a good temp. At the very least you would probably have to immersion blend the mix to get a decent emulsification. It would probably be best in a Paco but a Paco won't keep your mix from turning into a mess if the fat ratios are screwed up...

Guess their wines the right price, thank god

Buy it on your newstand, it will read just as good.

Thanks for the great report, Andy! Now I remember seeing an article about Canteen somewhere, it sounds fantastic. Dessert seemed outstanding too.

I'm with Wendy, the pix are really great, then I think, "jeez, this guy BAKED this stuff too!"

Thanks for that clarification, Arley!

You'll like it. Not super acidic, pretty rounded flavor.

Understood.

...very interesting...

calcium chloride It is a salt but dissolves in water, at least in my experience. As far as withstanding heat, I only used it in cold or room temp desserts or appetizers ( we came up with an apple/cucumber juice ravioli for a cerviche too).

alanamona, I liked the 72% "E. G." very much, although the 61% seemed a bit more "chocolate", to my palate! We had a very good thread about E. Guittard a (few?) years ago now? I think Steve Klc and maybe Michael Laiskonis addressed the tempering aspects of the 72% but meltwise, it was very nice. I'll trying to dig it up and link it. If you can have the 61% on hand as well, don't see where you can go wrong.

Man, you guys are tough!!! Manhattan seems like very ruff territory these days for a new restaurant. Re: El Bulli: Do you think Urena was there in the "earlier" days? Before things got a bit more technical? iheartoffal seemed to get it, or was there on a better night. Wishing Urena the best.

Will is selling Alginate and Calcium Chloride??? That's above & beyond the call of duty, eh? Awesome ← Indeed he is and in reasonably sized packages. ← I'm going to have to see if I can do a mail order. As BryanZ points out, both items are kind of hard and a pain to track down online or elsewhere.

Will is selling Alginate and Calcium Chloride??? That's above & beyond the call of duty, eh? Awesome