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tan319

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by tan319

  1. The awarding entity is Pastry Art & Design magazine. I could be wrong but I think you get an award of some type ( could be mixing this up with a Kitchen Aid award or something.) but it's pretty much about the honor. This makes Nicoles second placing in 2 or 3 years, I believe.
  2. a "FOCUS" with Will... over in Pastry & Baking...
  3. First, I'd like to welcome everybody to the Pastry & Bakings Third FOCUS!!! We're thrilled to have Pastry Chef Will Goldfarb of Manhattans 'Room 4 Dessert' with us! I started hearing about Will Goldfarb when I was getting into the whole "new wave" of pastry chefs, and of course, his work with Paul Liebrandt at Papillon, the much talked about though short lived restaurant in New York, one of the many culinary victims of the events post 9/11. Always intriguing with his flavor combinations, I kept track of his work as he worked with Morimoto in Philidelphia and others (as you'll read) and then at CRU, in NYC. It seemed right around then he became a member of the 'Gullet and I've been very lucky to have developed a friendship with him. He's been a great participant here on eGullet, and has always been generous with his knowledge and passion for pastry and whatever else is going on, with me and members. As you'll read here, Will has been doing this pastry gig for awhile, with ups AND downs, stages at El Bulli and at Gerald Mulot, but his much acclaimed 'Room 4 Dessert' dessert restaurant/bar/soon to be breakfast place too, located in Manhattan, NYC., has been a smash from day one! A few links to look over New York Times Review Room 4 Dessert Website New York Magazine Review New York Magazine (Third Item Down) eGullet New York Forum Just Added; Pastry Art & Design Top 10 Chef Award! www.willpowder.net willpowder.net carries many of the products you've read about here in P&B like methycelluose, lecithin, sodium alginate, etc. I feel very lucky to have Will here to do a FOCUS with us! A short talk with Will and then feel free to ask Will any questions, etc. I'm sure he'll answer when he isn't putting up a plate! ______________________________________________________________________ tan319:So, how did you get into pastry and desserts? Will Goldfarb: First I graduated from Duke University in 97, then I went to Paris and completed the pastry cycle at the Cordon Bleu on the expedited schedule, basic in three weeks, intermediate in 5 weeks, and advanced in 10 weeks (they refused to accelerate to advanced) "" tan319: Yeah, I meant did you or were you going to reg college when you got the bug... W.G: Regular college I was working always from high school foh parking cars, tending bar, busboy, food runner etc. I started cooking but, I was always attracted to the precision of pastry. My first job cooking was chopping parsley, then hot apps in Paris, followed by chopping onions in Florence. tan319: Did you do any stages in France, New York, etc.? When did the whole Spanish thing blow up for you? W.G.: I had only one pastry stage before I went to Spain, and had only been cooking for one year and a half When I went to Spain, I was actually disappointed to learn that I had been placed in the pastry department, as I thought I would be in the kitchen, but then got Alberts book ('Los Postres de El Bulli', by Albert Adria) which had just been released, and realized that this was the more impressive of the two bodies of work. W.G.: My first day in Paris I walked into Gagnaire and asked the maitre d for an "apprentissage" with my Harraps dictionary under my arm. He said to try Guy Savoy. Much of my learning in Paris came from books and travel to great restaurants like Marc Veyrat, Jean Marie Amat at The Saint James, Troigros, Pre Catalan, Guy Savoy, Cibreo, Neichel, El Bulli: all between June 1997 and June 1998. I consider my first stage to be at Nana's in Durham, North Carolina in spring 1997 for Scott Howell, but I was really just picking thyme, spinach, and chopping parsley between class and my busboy shifts. My stage in Paris summer 1998 became a fullblown job offer at Yvan, a small bistro off the Champs Elysees, under the former patissier for Guy Savoy. He was looking for a summer vacation, and I was introduced my friends of my parents in early July 1997; perfect match. He hated the fact that I was a big clumsy American and without any pastry knowledge, but liked the fact that I was foolish enough to make a full service for a week (7 doubles) by myself. Upon return from his vacation he banished me to the savory kitchen. Sauteeing foie gras (which of course I had never seen) I was able to earn a salary and a contract offer, which of course meant to me that I had learned enough to leave. I was arranged a stage at Patisserie Mulot in Paris. In my opinion the best shop in Paris. Here I was slammed into a real pastry shop and buried with work and hours. I learned how to separate eggs quickly, because I needed 600 before 7am, and the work day started at 6. I was waking everyday at 4:45am to the Jackie Brown soundtrack, making a latte in my cramped mouse filled Paris flat, and walking in the dark to work. I didn't see the sun for two months... tan319: How did you make your way to El Bulli to stage? W.G.: While at Mulot, I started working as a private chef for a wealthy Swiss American who took me to Ramatuelle. I had already declined my admission to law school, and secured a stage at Cibreo. I drove to Florence and slept in my car for a few days because the restaurant wasn't open, and began to cut a lot of onions. Actually we practically pureed raw red onions by hand to make the base of all our food, all of which was cooked from scratch everyday. everything was based on soffrito, which meant we needed 1 bus tub of minced mirepoix each morning before 10 (the day started at 9). When immigration came one night and I was hiding in the office i called over to el bulli, they were celebrating because it was the last day of the year in which they had been awarded 3 stars. they agreed to let me come the following year. they had previously declined in spring 98, and summer 98. So I went there Feb 99. tan319: Where did you work before Atlas? W.G. When I came back from Bulli, I began running the pastry kitchen at The Ryland Inn, but since I had been offered 2 months in the Taller, I went back to Spain in 00 spring. They were surprised that i declined to stay at the restaurant but I wanted to find something better and drove around Europe for weeks, not finding anything, and called Cheong Liew at the Grange, and he said to come down. so I bought a 1 way ticket to Australia. Cheong sent me to Tim Pak Poy next at Claudes, but I missed my dinner reservation and ended up doing his dishes for a month while working construction in the days. From there I got a job in garde manger for Tetsuya. I came back again to run the pastry kitchen and menu development for Craig in 00 winter. I briefly ran the Cap Juluca pastry department in Spring 01, then went to St Barts to put a book together, and Capri for Stravaganza Mediterranea. That summer I redid the kitchen in my friends bar in Paris. tan319: LOL! W.G.: When I came back to the states I started teaching the LSAT exam preparation because I couldnt find any interesting cuisine, I came across Paul's stuff and asked him if he needed someone. I started working Garde Manger. " tan319: So were you just doing Garde Manger? at Atlas? I've always been under the impression ( all my own, I suppose) that you did pastry at Atlas, left, reconnected to do Papillion. W.G.: Just garde manger The supremely talented Sam Mason was the pastry chef before, during, and after my time there. Paul and I left Atlas together to open Papillon tan319: It must have felt great to get the three stars from the New York Times for Atlas. W.G.: Before I arrived, Paul was awarded three stars from Grimes. Youngest chef in NYC to do so. tan319: Did you feel like it was getting ready to explode? W.G. Yes, but the market wasn't ready to bear that style of cooking especially post 9/11. After 911 we found an interesting option to take over Papillon, and he asked me to be the pastry chef. tan319: How long was Papillon open for with you, and Liebrandt? W.G.: Maybe six months. tan319: After Papillon, you consulted and such for awhile, correct? W.G. Morimoto in Philly, went to Aquavit for one month, went to Maine to the Castine Inn for Tom Gutow for the summer season and to regain my bearings. I was living in a trailer park with my wife, then was in Philly by December 02. Went to do a weekend workshop on pastry techniques for Vetri and stayed to do a tasting for Morimoto Nailed it and went to Philly Simultaneously I was interviewing for the pastry position at TFL, interestingly I was flown out to Napa... tan319:So, how did you hook up with Shea Gallante and become pastry chef at CRU? Did you know him beforehand or did he know you? W.G.: Winter '04 I was looking for a move, my wife was commuting from Philly to NYC and the strain was too much. I cooked for Brad at Mary Elaines at the Phoenician and was offered the job and my wife told me that if i went to Phoenix I could stay alone. I came to Philly and had a message from Shea Gallante, of whom I knew was at Bouley, had heard great things about, and the next morning in 'Dining In' ( New York Times) I read about his deal at Cru. I arranged a tasting at Bouley with Bouley and we began to work on the restaurant. tan319: Was the concept of the restaurant different in the "blueprint" stages then it ended up being? W.G.:: I think Shea has developed a very successful restaurant, it's working out well for him... tan319: Not to open up old wounds so to speak but... It surely seems like you got a lot of heat for "being different" in your approach to dessert, EVEN though you offered both "modern" & "classic" items on your menu. It was like you were the lightning rod for negative criticism, both in print and on the net. It had to have perplexed and maybe even hurt you. W.G.: I was surprised at the outrage over vanilla ice cream I was upset that at least I wasn't recognized for cooking things perfectly. Even Shea said he had yet to read one criticism about the taste or technique. It was personal and mean spirited, but it was a great experience I was basically destroyed professionally and I was unable to provide for my family doing things the way I knew how. It was not a particularly reassuring time but, it was a great time to be with my daughter and if I had to do it over again I would do it exactly the same... tan319: Even though you participate on eG, do you have any thoughts on " culinary criticism" on a whole and on the 'net in general? W.G. Culinary criticism can be positive, as the word does not imply negativity. there are thoughtful writers and reporters, but there are also those with no knowledge or passion, just ego. tan319: So, it seemed as though you took a bit of a sabbatical after CRU. We spoke via email a few times and you had a few irons in the fire, it seemed, specifically you were thinking about your own dessert restaurant... (...apparently you then fell into the right partners via craigslist) W.G.: It really started to come together the first week of October '05 tan319: craigslist sounds like it was a wonderful thing! Wish I could navigate it decently!!!! tan319: So, maybe elaborate a bit more on how 'Room 4 Dessert', your new and much praised venture come to fruition? WG: I made contact with the owners, soon to be partners, over a craigslist posting, and after some early interviews, we had a deal by Sunday October 27, 2005 Nov 15 we had a lease, and Jan 15 we opened for business. tan319: Was it expensive to get off of the ground? W.G. No. The entire buildout was done for 20000, and the kitchen was equipped for 14k, all of the acoutrements were sourced for less than 6g (Rosenthal, Stolze, Guy Degrenne, chilewich) tan319: If you can, as many chefs who use different techniques or ingredients or equipment get branded "mad scientists", can you tell us what you have in your kitchen? W.G.: A microwave, a cheese melter, an Avanti freezer, a Paco Jet, a minipack vacuum sealer, a Polyscience circulating water bath, and two induction burners. Also a Vitaprep, Champion juicer, Robot Coupe, and a Hamilton Beach mixer. A half tray Sodir convection oven. one whisk, spatula, gram scale, .1 gram scale, chinois, 8 pots, 12 spoons, you get the picture. Both traditional and maybe a bit different from the normal tan319: Had you been thinking about your initial menu for a long time? W.G.: It is a compilation of classics, new ideas, overriding philosophy and synthesis of cuisine/happy people tan319: Any particular inspirations? W.G.: Davide Scabin, Ruben Garcia, Kasper Kurdahl Albert ( Adria), Herve This, Gagnaire tan319: Were/are/your partners or investors, etc. (?) doing most of the business stuff while you were doing the menu conception or what? W.G.: , Choosing a designer, accounting, funding, lease, legal yes Me: contractor, equipment, staffing, menu, flatware, accoutrements, paper, photography, web design, menu, sourcing, ordering, etc tan319: Did you guys have to get a liquor license? W.G.: Transfer of liquor license, but still have to apply tan319: Having been a restuarant pastry chef, how did/does this differ? W.G. Direct guest interaction Never having an off day No emotion during service, etc Always on stage Service complications: order taking, place setting/clearing, drink service, etc ____________________________________________________________________________ The threads open now for questions, comments and so forth. As I said Will will get to the computer when he has a chance. hopefully, he'll be able to stick around until Friday, the 23rd or so. Please, a warm welcome for Will Goldfarb!
  4. Forgot to mention one thing. In the new issue of Food & Wine (10 best chefs issue) there's an article about new technology, ingredients and so on, and somebody basically says that the ""pushing the envelope thing is a guy thing. If they were car mechanics they would be hotrodding their engines"" kinda sorta paraphrased.
  5. Some great comments, posts. I think my comment about publicists was probably written & taken slightly the wrong way. While I know people who DO use them I would suppose the majority don't. Nicole (Kaplan) hit it on the head. She's her best promoter. The restaurant she's in ( 11 Madison, NYC ) and her get constant kudos for their food and work. Sending your portfolio to PA& D certainly couldn't hurt although, personally, I think a "referal" of sorts, whether it's by a fellow chef, your Valrhona or Uster salesperson, is going to help it along. RE: Exec chefs, etc. It sure was nice of the exec to bring the JBF person in to meet you. Many I know wouldn't dream of it, too scared, too much ego. Shouldnt blow it like that agin. Get ahold of these food writers and position your self!
  6. RE: REps: This kind of thing happens all of the time to my wife & I. If we go to look at a car ( her thing) the rep foolishly will start rapping to me, poor guy. When I did some part time stuff I ran into some male cake decorators, it was about 50/50 female to ,ale Sweet Kate. Nicole, Sugarella, they all have hit the nail on the head for me, promote thyself. I'd like to hear who are the biggest influences on female chefs, as it seems the original poster maggie, was starting to have some leanings toward FA.
  7. Have either of you encountered problems with Sorbitol in recipes? It always makes me squeamish too... I'm very sensitive to milk based sweeteners so lacitol sounds like a "I'll pass on it" for me anyways.
  8. It's true...
  9. I'm aware of the numbers of men VS. Women going to Culinary School, graduating, etc. I'm a D.C. boy, graduated from L'Academie circa the "Bethesda'Era. I'm trying to keep this out of the sexual harrasment area, as I don't think anybody is going into the cooking arena, especially woman, w/o being aware of all of that. But, just to even it out, I'm sure many males (me included) have had our asses pinched by male pastry chefs. We're talking about: # of men to women being featured in mags, media, etc. I think it's fairly to sort of even. "Forward Thinking Cuisine" is a big deal at the moment, more or less, it's getting a push and the people who have been at the forefront of it, who are mainly men, I suppose, are getting the pushing done. And what I'm saying is a good number of books, magazine articles, I don't think ARE mentioning men more then women, I think it's a pretty even split. All of those "to do" points that I mentioned in my reply to maggie are things that were suggested to me by a number of people here over the years so I'm just passing on good info, me thinks. Just to be clearer, I've ran my mouth about Michelle Myers, for instance of Sona/Boule fame as well as Sam Mason. Not as much, for sure but that doesn't mean I'm not a fan. I know you're not saying that, just want to clarify
  10. You're kidding, correct, dejac??? For one, I totally agree with you, both sexes have it good AND bad in this business. for all of the reasons you cited and more. As far as fueling any topics any more or less, all I'm trying to do, and I think it's my responsibility as a host to do so, is provide a forum for people to have an INTELLIGENT conversation (if you can call it a conversation) about certain subjects. I think the baking /best choc cake aspect gets covered here pretty well by the members but here you have someone (maggie) who is seeking some honest "answers" or thoughts on the subject. I think my first post pretty accurately hits on and agrees with you. We promote ourselves. We get lucky if we do a course at say, the French Pastry School and attract the attention of someone who maybe looks at our portfolio and mentions it to an editor of 'Chocolatier' or PA&D mag. Or you're a pastry chef and your Uster rep comes out and ends up tasting some of your menu and starts blowing their horn about you. Newspapers write about you, etc. But, if you're not in NY or Chicago or LA, any major media centers, this is all going to get harder, if indeed, you want to try to get your face out there more. As far as "9 men, one women"... sure in some issues of Food & Wine or B. A. you might see some of that but I was looking at one of my favorite issues of Food Arts, that covered the first Annual Pastry Conference at Greystone and in a sidebar on who made what, there were 8 women mentioned, 5 men. I just went to my bookcase and randomly picked up three issues of PA&D and all three have women on the cover. Wendy Isreal Ilene Shane Deborah Racicot. PA&D have had at least two women in their Top TEn for the last two maybe tree years. In the newest issue of Food Arts, with Ice Cream on the cover, it's my belief that far more women get mentioned in that article then men. Is it possible that ice cream gets a cover because Emily Luchetti has a new book on the subject coming out? Maybe, but that's sometimes how PR machines work. When Pichet Ongs book comes out in the winter we'll probably ( hopefully) see a press blitz. If you want to position yourself as different, DO list what's cooked "Sous Vide", talk about the Paco to your local food writer if they call you about a summer ice cream recipe or initiate one yourself with them. If you haven't already done it, get your name on the dessert menu, that's almost more important then the next raise if you're the pastry chef, they're your creations! I have to emphasize how important research is. I know exactly what you mean about getting bogged down with stuff at work but, the worst thing any of us can do is stop our "educations" in our tracks. Sethro is what I call "a seeker", I am too, and if you want to find out more about what he's talking about, search it out, google it, you see some pastry chef mentioned, male or female, that you've never heard of, google them, see if they have a website, etc. Sometimes the only time we have to do it is at 3:30/4:30 in the morning but we have to do it when ever we can. On the threads covering the kinds of things like Sethro or me, some others start, I do notice the overwhelming participation is by men, I can only think of maybe two women who would, off the top of my head, on a semi regular basis. I'm not sure why. Seeing the numbers on bakers and PCs who are female, I believe it but... I also think many of those women ( as well as men) are working in resorts, hotels, casinos, bakeries and not media attracting restaurants, etc. I hope this doesn't come off as harsh, don't mean it to be at all.
  11. Are There More Men (Pastry) Chefs then Women? Here's the thread...
  12. A member named maggie from East Tennessee posted this in the (Trad to Avant Garde......) thread "It has always bothered me that the star-making machinery in our business pushes the men forward when, yes, it does seem that there are more women actually working in the business than men. Every year but last, there are nine men and one woman in the PA&D's ten best. Last year, there were three women. I don't for a second believe that ten percent of all pastry chefs in the US are women. I know it's more. And Food & Wine does the same: nine men, one woman. Can that really be the proportion in the savory side as well? I wonder. So, is it the press, pushing forward the men who push the envelope? Is it us, the women in the business, playing it safe? I know I play it safer than I could. I use sous vide, but I don't write it on the menu. I make foams and use lecithin and love my Paco Jet, but the guests don't know how the desserts get to them, just that they end up in front of them. And I must confess that half the posts Sethro writes, I have NO idea what he's talking about! And I want to, but when I get to work, I get bogged down in the work of the day, with not too much time to play. Could it be more likely that the men put themselves forward to the press than the women? Could it be that men see the competitive sport of pastry an integral part of the business, where women might not as much? I try occasionally to put myself forward, to get the hotel's marketing person to get my stuff out there, but I don't try very hard, and maybe I should. Maybe we all should. Maybe this should be another thread... " So, I'm going to get back to this in a few but, as the question came up before, it's clearly time to address the issue. The ONLY thing I ask, because this kind of men/women issue can be a bit "hot button" one, is that it not become a pissing match or mean spirited. Just a few quick thoughts... It's my impression that people get into PA&D by A- Being brought to the attention of the editors by other chefs/distributors/writers and publicists. I don't think doing the competition scene means as much as one might think. Much to say on this issue but let's get it started first.
  13. too much like the first season , just different players. Heather was good though, really good. The pizza dude is too. Don't know if I'll be tuning in much for this though. All of his UK shows are much better.
  14. It went right over my head, that they had opened.
  15. I usually do the 10x ones even though 90% of the year in the SW the climate is perfect for the others. In NM "swamp coolers (evaporated air conditioning) screws all sugar stuff up, as bad if not worse then a tropical climate. RE: Pectin tuiles. Thanks for the recipe. Even the Conticini tuiles freak out and grease up. I'm going to try the Balaguer method.
  16. ready for this!!
  17. There was a series a couple of years ago in FTV called 'Into The Fire' that profiled them amongst others. The exec chef & owners eat their way around the country (world? NOBU etc. ) and dumb it down a bit for their menu. There was a HUGE thread here a few years ago on them, pages & pages of it!!! Just did a search for it but las, I failed If you have the time, there's endless reading for days in it, no kidding!
  18. I was checking out my Oriol Balaguer 'Dessert Cuisine" book the other day and stumbled across what I THINK may cure some of the greasiness factor. When he makes his variation of (appearance wise at least) he cools the wet mix to room temp then adds the flour. Worth a try, no? Anyone else tried this yet? Thanks
  19. seems to me to be a bit odd response for someone who is an aspiring restauranteur; but we want to remain a neighborhood place, and being open only at nights with so much media can make you a bit of a tourist destination. opening for breakfast makes us a part of the community. also, as an mba student would be aware, the rent stays the same regardless of the hours of operation: we are moving towards being a 24 hour revenue center, and we felt that the best use of our time and resources would be to offer an inexpensive starbucks alternative. as far as production schedule and efficiency, it makes a great deal of sense to have a larger window of production. now our machine is working from 6a to 1a; not too bad for a team of one chef, one cook and one stagiare. on a more abstract level, it also sets the stage for us to become an afternoon salon of ideas. i would certainly appreciate your comments regarding breakfast to help us improve our quality of service. best wg ← Hi Will, I did not mean any disrespect. In my experience, I've found that companies are successful when they stick to what they do best. For R4D, obviously its the desserts and the creativity. Venturing out into breakfast, while not infusing the ideals of the restaurant, just seems odd to me. When I hear that a business goes off into another area that doesn't seem to fit in line with its core competencies. a red flag goes up in my head. Because frankly, anyone could get a brioche, poundcake, or mini grilled cheese at any place around the city. ← But would it be as GOOD of a Brioche, etc.??? Fly a red flag when you start hearing bad shit ( and take that with a grain of salt), this is one of the most positive vibes around, no? What twodogs said, yes!
  20. also, as an mba student would be aware, the rent stays the same regardless of the hours of operation: we are moving towards being a 24 hour revenue center, and we felt that the best use of our time and resources would be to offer an inexpensive starbucks alternative. best wg ← This is where it's at for anyone who can these days, a 24 hour revenue center. Always providing service, always making it work. When you are closed, the internet is collecting orders, great stuff. The menu looks good too, Will!
  21. I felt it was more of a cacao sampaka influence. Plus, normally the people who bake need to be there early, so why not make some people happy and make some money and turn some people on to your place that might not ever see it?
  22. OT for sure What are the 5 scales or levels of creativity, akwa?
  23. I think Chikas stuff at least lookswise reminds me of people like Balaguer, her menus read like that. If they are out there and not getting a lot of PR, it IS because they don't have a publicist, the value of that was reigned on me many years ago now by a wise "young" sage..
  24. Well for one, Gale doesn't publicize her more "out there" leanings a bunch ( that I'm aware of) as she has written books and done TV that has and have been a bit more traditional. But Steve Klc, for one, has spoken at least a couple of times about Gand being in front of all of this, she was pacotizing long ago, plugged into the Spanish thing, just kept it on the down low. RE: The 'Avant Garde" part of the thread title: I probably don't have the clearest thinking at 5:30 in the morning, especially when I'm in the middle of a controversy. But I'm regretting the title a bit as, once again, I was thinking of how Alineas presentations generally look ( to me, vaguely scientific, cool as hell but more out there) as opposed to the work out of wd50 dessert-wise. Alex's much made about by me chocolate squiggle could be termed a bit Avant, I think. I did forget to mention, as akwa astutely points out, the the women to men ratio will probably be evening out VERY soon with the people in their various kitchens striking out on their own. I can't wait!
  25. Hopefully not running the risk of being made to die a slow, agonizing death like the last time I mixed up women and men in a thread but yes, doc, I think it's disproportionate. As I said upthread, there may be alot of women doing this kind of cooking under the "press radar" but if you look at the booksites like the euro ones as well as Amazon, etc., of course, the line is kind of drawn. Having said that, I think the pre eminate woman chefs who are avant-ish or new wave/po mo influenced would be ... Chika Tillman from Chika licous NYC Michelle Myers from Sona (?)/Boule LA Caryn Stabinsky, at Ureena (formerly a wd50 pastry cook) NYC There was a woman at CRU who could still be there Sam Mason spoke highly of, had staged or worked with him. NYC That's quite a few, matter of fact! A lot happens with my brain once the coffee flows! Is this in fact true? While the best known "avant-garde" pastry chefs may be men, is there in fact a disproportionate number of men creating desserts with this approach and vice versa. While it may turn out to be so, I would be very hesitant in accepting this statement at face value. ←
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