AAQuesada
-
Posts
880 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Store
Help Articles
Posts posted by AAQuesada
-
-
Dishoom is a great book! there was a great zoom talk on it from Now Serving in LA.
-
1
-
-
23 hours ago, weinoo said:On 2/5/2022 at 9:33 AM, blue_dolphin said:
pineapple on pizza
And how could there possibly be any argument about the above?
There is no argument, it's delicious!
-
4
-
1
-
1
-
-
This article makes me want to try a 1:1 Martini. I like a good vermouth & I have some St.George Terroir gin at 45% abv, maybe i'll give it a whirl
-
I have Sola, Sepia and Astrance from her. After that what would you recommend? I do love modern Paris cuisine from fine dining down to bristonomy and on down. I'd love to get something from Yannick Alleno & he has a book with Masui; also curious about 'Ma cuisine de bistrot' from him as well.
Do report back once you get the Racine book! it looks good.
-
3 hours ago, oferl said:
Jerome Banctel purchased new and at
first glance really like it, very comprehensive on the recipes side and this is mainly what i like from the modern chef books (in french of course, no English version yet).
Nice! I'm jealous, I think anything that Chiro Matsui does with Chefs has a good chance of being great -Astrance a Cooks book is maybe my favorite.
So I haven't had much chance to look over the Franzen book but to give you my first thoughts it's organized like the Septime book ie: the first part is pictures of dishes and descriptions with recipes at the end written in a restaurant style manner (which I like). Of the recipes a lot of them look 'doable' fun and many of the components look like they are worth making / playing around with. I paid 110 pretax but worth it. On a global look I like the thought of the restaurant as European technique and ingredients inspired by Japanese kaiseki in format -this makes a lot of sense to me.
-
From Franzen just to give an idea of what it's about
-
2
-
-
The Frantzen is self published i believe. Good stuff!
-
I may have to go to Now Serving the cookbook shop here in LA to so i can bump up this section! The sacrifices i make for egullet 😇
-
2
-
-
2 hours ago, Johntodd said:
I'll try. All I have is an SM57 and a FirePod(!) and Cubase 5.
EDIT: I could try an M/S recording. But it would be the '57 as center and a ribbon mic for the sides.I'm going to be waiting for the first viral ASMR food sounds egullet thread 😂🤣
-
2
-
1
-
-
On 1/15/2022 at 7:18 AM, paul o' vendange said:
And you're earlier description of a sort of hybrid-coulis process sounds like something I seem to recall Peterson describes, in terms of trying to parse out aromatics given multiple wettings. Is this where you got it?
I seem to remember this posted here years ago:
----------------------------
Beef Coulis
to make approx. 3 quarts
This is my substitute for classical demiglace; it's useful when the flavor of a meaty, clean, naturally thickened beef jus is appropriate. It combines the intense flavor of 17th and 18th century meat coulis with the improved science of 21st century jus infusion (made popular by Ducasse's and others). It also takes advantage of simple, inexpensive bone stock techniques. Time requirements are similar to Escoffier-style demiglace; food cost is much less. Similar coulis can be made from any type of meat for specific meals. For meats other than beef, start with pure veal stock.
This is a substitute for demiglace, not glace de viande. It is based on a reduction to roughly a third the original stock volume. I prefer it more lightly bound than most demiglace; greater intensity of flavor, but a thinner consistency, bound by gelatin. It can be thickened further at the end with arrowroot, if you like, or left loose, for individual sauces to be thickend à la minute.
I haven't included a stock recipe. Any well made bone stock, clear and high in gelatin, will work. Veal stock or a stock with a high percentage of veal is ideal. Use your favorite recipe or whatever you have on hand; most of the qualities of the coulis are introduced by the meat.
Requires 7qt or larger saucepan / dutch oven and a sauté pan.
(total time about 8 hours)
- 9 quarts / 8.5L veal stock
- 6 lbs / 2.7kg defatted beef trimmings, beef chuck, or beef stew meat
- 2-1/2 oz. / 70g butter (5TB)
- 1/2 medium onion
- 1/2 celery root
- 2 sprigs thyme
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 small bunch parsley
- 1-1/2 tsp / 7g arrowroot starch
- 1 TB / 14ml cold water (approx, for arrowroot slurry)
-divide meat into three equal 2lb portions. meat will be incorporated in three stages; vegetables and garni will be incorporated in the last two of these.
-consolodate stock into one container and place near stove
Stage 1:
-cut the first portion of the meat into rough 1" cubes
-sear in a very hot sauté pan in brown butter (pan should be hot enough to brown the butter by the time the meat goes in). be sure to brown on all sides. it's ok if beef renders juices and starts to steam; let it cook until juices reduce and brown.
-add 1 to 2 cups stock to meat, and thoroughly scrape bottom to deglaze drippings. keep heat high and reduce stock until it browns again.
-with tongs, transfer meat to saucepan. cover meat with approx. 3 quarts of the stock. turn up heat. do not wash sauté pan between stages (any remaining fond on bottom will help brown meat on following stages).
-pour off fat frome sauté pan. deglaze with a small amount of water and pour into saucepan.
-when stock starts to simmer, turn heat low to maintain simmer, and slide pot back so flame strikes off center. -simmer about 2 hours.
-skim every 5 minutes for the first 20 mintues, and every 20 minutes thereafter. rotate pan 1/4 turn every 20 minutes. -periodically add more stock to maintain the stock level. it's done when you've used all but 3-1/2 quarts of the stock. -turn the heat very low while preparing for stage 2.
-remove meat from stock; allow to cool and then freeze. stage should take about 2-3/4 hours.
Stage 2:
-cut the second portion of the meat into rough 1" cubes
-sear as before in butter.
-deglaze as before with 1 to 2 cups stock; reduce and brown; transfer meat to saucepan and immerse in the partially prepared coulis. turn up heat.
-defat and deglaze sauté pan as before with a small amount of water and pour into saucepan.
-add 1/2 of the thyme and bay leaf.
-coarsely chop 1/2 of the onion (1/4 onion) and 1/2 of the remaining celery root (1/4) celery root).
-reheat sauté pan over medium flame, being careful not to burn any remaining pan drippings.
-cook onion and celery root until onion is translucent.
-add a small amount of water to pan with vegetables and deglaze; add contents to saucepan.
-simmer as before for about 2 hours, skimming often in the beginning and every 20 minutes thereafter. continue to rotate pan and replenish stock to maintain level. it's done when you've used all but 1/2 quart of the stock.
-turn the heat very low while preparing for stage 3.
-remove meat from stock; allow to cool and then freeze. stage should take about 2-3/4 hours.
Stage 3:
-add remaining thyme and bay leaf, and parsely (pin parsely under some of the meat so it stays out of the way) -coarsely chop remaining onion and celery root.
-reheat sauté pan over medium flame, being careful not to burn any remaining pan drippings.
-cook onion and celery root in butter until onion is translucent.
-add a small amount of water to pan with vegetables and deglaze; add contents to saucepan.
-cut the second portion of the meat into rough 1" cubes
-sear as before in butter.
-deglaze pan with water (enough to cover the meat halfway). reduce and brown.
-repeat with another portion of water
-deglaze pan with half the remaining stock, and any added water needed to cover the meat half way. reduce and brown.
-transfer meat to the saucepan. defat if necessary, and deglaze the sauté pan with with the last of the stock. pour into saucepan (there will have been a total of 4 deglazings; 2 with water, 2 with stock).
-simmer only 20 minutes or so, this time very gently. start checking flavor and consistency after 10 minutes. skim and rotate pan as before. -remove meat as before. freeze this batch of meat separately; it's going to taste better than the more overcooked batches.
- test thickness of coulis on a cool plate. if you want to thicken it more, make a slurry with 1-1/2 tsp arrowroot powder and some cold water (1/2 tsp arrowroot per quart of coulis). whisk in and simmer for 3 minutes. strive for a bit less thickness than traditional demi. test thickness by spooning onto a cool plate. add more arrowroot if needed, the same way, 1/2 /tsp at a time. simmer a few minutes, and check again.
- strain through fine chinois or strainer lined with 2 thicknesses of cheesecloth
- cool in stainless bowls in a water bath, as before, and refrigerate overnight. stage should take about 2-1/2 hours.
Next Day:
- defat and warm (to liquefy), and distribute in 1 cup and 1/2 cup increments in ziplock bags, and in a couple of ice cube trays. freeze. freeze ice cube trays covered in plastic wrap. then individually wrap the ice cubes in plastic wrap and store several each in ziplock bags. ice cubes are a little over a half ounce—1 cup per tray.
© 2009 Paul Raphaelson / Underbelly
www.under-belly.org
-
1
-
-
Just listened to it and thought it was fun for those interested
-
2
-
-
Panda express is doing an orange chicken with the the beyond meat chicken substitute. Haven't tried it but early reviews from friends is good.
-
Completely a joke! I do love pigeon and that's a pretty classic French preparation but way too much of a wuss to butcher a live one. The one time I plucked birds it DID NOT go over well poor things lol. Really do love the depth and breadth of the recipes in the book though
-
1
-
-
I'll think about it! Lol should I do the classic -Pichón en su sangre? 🥰🐦kidding kidding, but I have made a couple easy things from there and I've been thinking about doing the manchamanteles.
-
sounds like it is from a similar tradition but a different book with a much earlier publication date.
-
I don't see an isbn number but here it the info page and a blurb about the print run maybe it will help.
-
1
-
-
it's pretty rare to wet brine for more than a day and you make a good point about the the salt being in the outer layer, that is why I always put my brined half chickens on racks to allow for the salt to equalize throughout the meat and for the skin to dry in the walk-in for 24 hours before using.
Personally, I stick to 5% salt in my brine as well although i've seen much higher just think it's unnecessary
-
2
-
-
interesting I usually would use less aromatics but boil them for 5 10 minutes, then chill and use. The other thing with pepper is it super flavorful when i'm using it with liquid i like to blend whole peppercorns in with the liquid you get a much wide range of flavor from the peppercorns that way. It's a trick I learned by accident making cuban mojo at a restaurant I was Chef at. The mojo marinade / sauce always had better flavor if i ground it with the other ingredients + liquid even over adding fresh ground pepper.
-
2
-
2
-
-
4 hours ago, weinoo said:
I have or had 4 of those! Tower's book 'COOKS' still feels very modern to to me.
-
1
-
-
Puebla y su Cocina was published in 1971 and was likely put together in the late 60's by a social / charitable organization. Recipes are all from local ladies in the higher social class many of whom had French trained Chefs -I know recipes in foreign languages doesn't hinder you here you will find stuff like Oysters Rockefeller and Oso buco to soufflé to hot cakes (Mexico does pancakes very well!). Really anything you would need to know food wise if you were marrying into a wealthy Mexican household. Including a section on nutrition, calories, weights measures and substitutions.
Yes there are all of the recipes you'd expect from Puebla as well like manchamanteles(so good you stain your tablecloth!) Tinga Poblana, mole Poblano, Desserts as well that are local as well as French or Spanish. There is a great party guacamole with lots of chicharrón!
I posted a cocktail from this book somewhere in that section not too long ago btw and no idea if it's available online. I'll mention again that the book was recommended by family in the city as having good recipes that are typical and work.
-
3
-
1
-
-
I haven't made that one and I'm not old enough to remember tamales from that era! But the filing is based on a chile Colorado which I did make this week and i liked quite a bit for enchiladas. The masa had a bit of olive oil in the dough in addition to the regular ingredients.
I'll prolly make her flour tortillas with milk and butter next!
-
2
-
1
-
-
The recipes in the Rancho book really work and seem to be well tested, stories are great based on her families oral history and from interviewing members of other Rancho families. Jacqueline Higuera McMahan always gives credit on recipes. There is a lot of Spanish influence, use of olive oil, olives, flour & flour tortillas, fig empanadas.
I didn't see a 'Cup tamale' but don't expect anything super innovative but well done family recipes some quirky due to the history of the Californios. There's really not much else out there like this except maybe Encarnacion's Kitchen which is interesting more from a Historical perspective.
-
1
-
-
it's a basically a bit less oxidative, easier to drink/or introduce to people who aren't as familiar. i've had this one recently which I liked a lot.
2011 Domaine Dugois Savagnin Arbois Blanc (Sous Voile) - SKU 1221900 (klwines.com)
-
2
-
-
Late seeing this but I think Sherry would be a nice pairing or how about a something from the Jura like a Savagnin 'sous voile' K&L does a direct import of Domaine Dugois that can be found a great price for the quality.
-
2
-
1
-
The "Best" Dry Martini
in Spirits & Cocktails
Posted
Hendrick's is a banging G&T gin, don't love it as much in a Martini. just my opinion.